You might want to remove the queen excluder from between the brood boxes and the honey super. As winter progresses, the bees will move upward to where the food is. If the queen can't get past the excluder, she'll be left behind as the cluster ascends, leaving her without the warmth of the other bees.
That’s why it’s super important to consistently treat before and after brood increases because there are a lot of folks that only treat once or twice a year , varroa are gaining numbers when people think they aren’t , you test nurse bees but the mites are attracted to drones , there is a dr lama at usda in beltsville that has made some huge progress in these varroa experiments in the last 3 years , it’s worth paying attention to , it could help the bees tremendously to know what attracts the mites to the drones as they are young
Always treat in the winter as well. No issues with pumping warm gases into a hive in the dead of winter during freezing and Sub-Zero temperatures. It's also the best time to treat because they're all inside the hive and nobody's looking to fly out since it's too cold to fly and they would even die if they tried. Also, don't be afraid to mix up your vapor treatments. You can also use thymol oils and gels as well as other natural remedies including oxalic acid.
Im so nervous to have to treat my bees but I’m having a mite issue in one of mine too. Ugh I was thinking of using OA so I saw your video. It puts my mind at easy a lil lol I don’t want to hurt them
Use the Cheapest version 10/15 dollars one, it makes no sense to have a temperature control once you connect it when cold it cannot pass the warning Temp until there is Oxalic Acid on it. Use also a water tank where to wash and cool each single use. Cover your dresses and your skin too with one of those paper full dresses (don't know the exact word). To make it completely harmless make sure mask is at least 2FP, better 3fp. Use the mask also later when opening hives the small Oxalic crystals will stay in the hive for long. Have lots of fun, but stay a little safer.
Try a ecoflow power pack. The presence of these parasites is alarming. I once saw a bee covered in parasites at least 30 years ago that landed, struggling then took off again and did not know what I was seeing. I wonder if preemptive treatment of other hives is a good idea.
ONE CORRECTION to the video - text appears that say you can find "it" on eBay for half the price - I meant to write that you can find vaporizers on eBay for half the price, BUT, and this is a big BUT, they look like a much lower quality. This vaporizer is a really high quality product.
Can honey treated with oxalic acid be consumed? I've already removed the supers, however just curious since you are treating yours while the supers are on. Thanks.
Mine takes 4 minutes to reach 157 c. Full battery = 13 volts. Ok there was no acid in the pan but the data is correct. An accurate laser thermometer was used , plus and minus .3 degC ! Each and every wand needs testing outside the hive with the oxalic acid and timed before application. Appropriate protection must be observed for any individual or animal near the fumes that are developed ! Take heed please.
Thank you so much for your very helpful videos! It's great to have someone semi-local to me to follow (I'm in E TN.) Can you tell me why I should try to do the treatments with most or all of the bees inside the box? I just did this for the first time and wasn't able to do it at a time when they're all inside. Thanks again!
Hi, I was wondering. I do have screen bottoms for pest control on my hives. I could insert the Vaporizer through there and seal the front and what ever I have to seal from the back. This way I wont kill any bee that gets too close to the vaporizer that is hot. What are your thoughts on that? I also would be out of the bees way.
I think it is a good idea. I was asking myself the same and my conclusion is why not. the vapors go up anyway and there is a little less stress on your bees... thanks for confirming my idea,
Very interesting Did mine last night i thought do it at sunset where 99% were in the hive, My bees did not like that at all got zapped 3 times very annoyed at me learnt not to do it when most of the bees are in a big no no! my bees any other time very good just not last night hitting and trying to sting what ever they landed on my clothing. on the item can pick them up for about $20 do the exact thing heat up time it was quicker. Will add you can see you love your bees a lot with the way you put the boxes back seen other people just chuck there boxes on then later moan there bees were very stingy.
Why scrape it in the front of the hive box, I would have done it 20-50 feet from the hive. Thanks for the heads up cheaper versions are available for the vaporizers. Would someone please do a comparative of differing vaporizers.
Thanks for posting. Do you think you may have put super back on to soon ?...... Just read a web page from dadant supply.... Says best to wait about 10 minutes. 😊 Says crystals form once vapors subside but recommends waiting a bit to put super back.
I used this one a 2 hive deep with slatted racks and one hive actually got fire and another time it burned the bottom of the frames. Tested in before hand and followed the instructions and the fire still occurred.
Is this the only mite treatment you guys use, have you tried the mite away quick strips? We are in our first year of beekeeping, and would like to not treat for mites, but know all to well, it will only be a matter of time that there's a problem. Nice job on the videos. God bless
It is the only treatment that we've done. We're in our third year with bees and the first year we just didn't see mites (or at least didn't know what we were looking for). This is usually the case because the hives are so new. But by the end of year two, all three hives had heavy mite infestations. I can't say that we did exhaustive research, but we decided to go with the oxalic acid vaporizer, because it was relatively cheap (equipment - the OA is super cheap), highly effective, and is for the most part organic as oxalic acid is naturally occurring (it's already in wax, honey, pollen, etc.). If you saw the follow-up video, the treatments completely eliminated the mites. Thanks for the kind words about the videos. Best wishes to you as you get started homesteading and uploading videos. Blessings to you and yours as well.
thanks for replying and for the kind words. its to bad that we as beekeepers, have to do something with the mites. I have been told by a few long time beekeepers in our area... you must treat or do something. I do like the OA vaporizer. seems like the way we will go. thanks for the videos. i look forward to the next one!
Couldn't agree more about the shame in having to treat, but when we started seeing bees with deformed wing virus, we knew we had to do something immediately. Thankfully, there seemed to be no issues from the treatments, all three hives survived the winter, and came out in the spring mite free. One caution, another viewer here mentioned using one of the cheaper vaporizers (looks like very thin sheet metal instead of a milled aluminum block) and it caught his hive on fire. Best wishes!
MAQ's work. If you want to have winter losses in the 10-15% range or better then use the mite away quick strips. Follow the instructions especially the temperature restriction part and you'll be happy. The new version called Formic Pro has a 2-year shelf-life.
It must evaporate at the scale from 157 to 180 degrees celzius. Can you make sure with this evaporator that it does not overheat? If the heat is over 180 degrees, the oxalic acid produces the ultra toxic carbon monoxide that kills bees. Greetings from Slovenia.
That's the point of using a weak heater on a large block-- the (absorbed) heat of vaporization keeps the block from overheating, and the thermal mass keeps the temperature from rising quickly. This must be a really weak heater. My homemade setup takes about a minute to melt, and only another minute to finish vaporizing. If you are concerned, a thermocouple attached to the side with Kapton tape will let you monitor the temperature. You can get a thermocouple meter for under $15 from eBay.
Good question. To be honest, I had not heard of the formic acid route until you just asked. We went with oxalic acid because it seems to be the most widely used (especially in Europe, Canada, and New Zealand) and effective treatment. A quick bit of research suggests that oxalic acid is more effective against the the varroa mites than formic acid, and less detrimental to brood and bees. But again, that is after a quick bit of research. I just found several good articles to read - which is one of the things I love about beekeeping - always much to learn. Hope you're well!
Not this one. They are now available, but are MUCH more expensive. That said, the electric ones work much better/faster - you don't have to wait for it to cool down between hives, which is a huge plus.
Well I have my bees in my back yard and don't need to have a battery to carry around. Any Idea where to get one with electric outlet. Are you talking about the one for $450? yeah that would be too expensive. What battery do you use? There are multiple 12Volt batteries with different Amp.
As you can see in the video, we use the battery on our four wheeler/quad. This is helpful because we treat at night when the bees are in the hive and we can put the headlights on things. But you could probably use an inexpensive battery charger (if you have one) to heat up the vaporizer. Just put the clamps together and test how long it takes to vaporize.
Would this work?www.homedepot.com/p/Ultra-Performance-2-6-Amp-6-12-Volt-Manual-Battery-Charger-35001/301118075 if not I always can get a battery and then charge it with this. Then I don't have to lay 40 Ft of electric cable out in my backyard. Sorry for my questions, but I am a new beekeeper
Hi! I am Serg. I am from Ukraine. I want to buy the same vaporizer, but i am worried a little bit about thickness of that aluminium pan for OA because i use a litle bit different hives. It has much smaller hive entrance on the bottom board. How much inches does that pan have? And one more question! Could you say voltage in your battery? Thanks in advanse P/S Sorry for my English.
I built my own. Less than $40 Canadian. Block of aluminum Drilled for the acid tub. Drilled and threaded for the handle drilled and threaded for two diesel engine glow plugs a chunk of 10 gauge extension cord and two clips for the battery. Just a quick test to see if it worked and a teaspoon was entirely sublimated in 4 minutes 28 seconds. I have to time correct dosage but i'm guessing same maybe a bit less. Reason I built one is Cause Canadian these units are costing over 100 dollars and that is a retarded price for a block of aluminum with a handle and a cord heated by a $20 or less glow plug, I built this for $40 bought it all except the cord for (Had a scrap cord already) Under $40. Me!! Myself! No mass quantity discounts. No assembly line. The one thing I have found to be very true about beekeeping is the prices for equipment are OBSCENE!!!! I am building much of my equipment if the time and material involved is worth it. Frames I buy unassembled because the time it takes to make them isn't worth it to make. But when a box is going for high 20 to low 30 dollar prices? I can pull my tools out of the garage and even sucking at wood work build 20 of those in a day easily. that's a 600 dollar day. Take off the materials and that's a 500 dollar day. one week of that and it paid for all my tools all the expenses and paid me a wage in a single week. I was trying to find a cheap extractor and was shocked. Found old antique 4 frame extractors rusted through and they still wanted $300.00. I know there is money in honey but a honey extractor with a rust hole as big as my fist is unrealistic and a gouge. After a whack of searching I bought a new stainless steel 2 frame for less then some folks are selling very cheap plastic ones for. In bees Search long and hard before you buy anything because there are folks ready to take advantage of the ignorant everywhere. Even my hives. I called around to small beekeepers and was quoted 260 dollars for a six frame nuc. Saw an ad from a commercial guy who was selling 10 frame production hives ready for supers for 270 dollars. 10 dollars more and ready to play. Most important advice I can give to beekeepers is to be patient and shop around big time. People are lined up to take advantage of the ignorant. In this trade it's a majority from what I see.
I'm making these so bee keepers that want to vaporize can, for a good price point. I've be watching a lot of people make these now. Takes a lot of time and equipment.
You might want to remove the queen excluder from between the brood boxes and the honey super. As winter progresses, the bees will move upward to where the food is. If the queen can't get past the excluder, she'll be left behind as the cluster ascends, leaving her without the warmth of the other bees.
Thank you for making a video on this. Never have used fumigation on my hives but this is the first year that I am doing it.
Very much appreciate the video, Northeast Ohio lost 85% of the hives this winter from mites despite treating in the fall
That’s why it’s super important to consistently treat before and after brood increases because there are a lot of folks that only treat once or twice a year , varroa are gaining numbers when people think they aren’t , you test nurse bees but the mites are attracted to drones , there is a dr lama at usda in beltsville that has made some huge progress in these varroa experiments in the last 3 years , it’s worth paying attention to , it could help the bees tremendously to know what attracts the mites to the drones as they are young
I'm in ne Ohio , didn't know that
Lijep
Y Je IUOIUUVB
Always treat in the winter as well. No issues with pumping warm gases into a hive in the dead of winter during freezing and Sub-Zero temperatures. It's also the best time to treat because they're all inside the hive and nobody's looking to fly out since it's too cold to fly and they would even die if they tried. Also, don't be afraid to mix up your vapor treatments. You can also use thymol oils and gels as well as other natural remedies including oxalic acid.
Did you ever do a follow-up video so we could see the results?? I've looked for one, but haven't been able to find a Part 2 to this video.
Im so nervous to have to treat my bees but I’m having a mite issue in one of mine too. Ugh I was thinking of using OA so I saw your video. It puts my mind at easy a lil lol I don’t want to hurt them
Use the Cheapest version 10/15 dollars one, it makes no sense to have a temperature control once you connect it when cold it cannot pass the warning Temp until there is Oxalic Acid on it. Use also a water tank where to wash and cool each single use. Cover your dresses and your skin too with one of those paper full dresses (don't know the exact word). To make it completely harmless make sure mask is at least 2FP, better 3fp. Use the mask also later when opening hives the small Oxalic crystals will stay in the hive for long. Have lots of fun, but stay a little safer.
Perhaps a dumb question: do the bees avoid the heated surface? I'd hate to accidentally kill a bunch by touching them (especially the queen).
Try a ecoflow power pack.
The presence of these parasites is alarming.
I once saw a bee covered in parasites at least 30 years ago that landed, struggling then took off again and did not know what I was seeing.
I wonder if preemptive treatment of other hives is a good idea.
ONE CORRECTION to the video - text appears that say you can find "it" on eBay for half the price - I meant to write that you can find vaporizers on eBay for half the price, BUT, and this is a big BUT, they look like a much lower quality. This vaporizer is a really high quality product.
Very clear and informative video. Thanks for taking the time to make it and share.
Can honey treated with oxalic acid be consumed? I've already removed the supers, however just curious since you are treating yours while the supers are on. Thanks.
yes
U didn't get dead bees in the bowl where u put oxalic acid?
Mine takes 4 minutes to reach 157 c. Full battery = 13 volts. Ok there was no acid in the pan but the data is correct. An accurate laser thermometer was used , plus and minus .3 degC ! Each and every wand needs testing outside the hive with the oxalic acid and timed before application. Appropriate protection must be observed for any individual or animal
near the fumes that are developed ! Take heed please.
Thank you so much for your very helpful videos! It's great to have someone semi-local to me to follow (I'm in E TN.) Can you tell me why I should try to do the treatments with most or all of the bees inside the box? I just did this for the first time and wasn't able to do it at a time when they're all inside. Thanks again!
How many amperes should the battery be? Thank you.
Hi, I was wondering. I do have screen bottoms for pest control on my hives. I could insert the Vaporizer through there and seal the front and what ever I have to seal from the back. This way I wont kill any bee that gets too close to the vaporizer that is hot. What are your thoughts on that? I also would be out of the bees way.
I think it is a good idea. I was asking myself the same and my conclusion is why not. the vapors go up anyway and there is a little less stress on your bees... thanks for confirming my idea,
You can also vaporize with thyme oil
The printed squares on my sticky board came off when I wiped off the old oil
Se puede usar una batería de motocicleta ?
What is the min temperature you can use oxalic Acid at?
Generally you don't want to open it service the hive below about 60 F
I made one just like it that uses a diesel glow plug.
how many times a year do you do this treatment?
Do it every 20 days till the bees are no longer active.
Key Note, Walmart sells vaporizers for $31!!! Also, what type of battery do you use???
We use the battery on our four wheeler.
Very interesting Did mine last night i thought do it at sunset where 99% were in the hive, My bees did not like that at all got zapped 3 times very annoyed at me learnt not to do it when most of the bees are in a big no no! my bees any other time very good just not last night hitting and trying to sting what ever they landed on my clothing. on the item can pick them up for about $20 do the exact thing heat up time it was quicker. Will add you can see you love your bees a lot with the way you put the boxes back seen other people just chuck there boxes on then later moan there bees were very stingy.
Why scrape it in the front of the hive box, I would have done it 20-50 feet from the hive. Thanks for the heads up cheaper versions are available for the vaporizers. Would someone please do a comparative of differing vaporizers.
i had a cheaper one only worked two times this one has replaceable heat glow plug
Thanks for posting. Do you think you may have put super back on to soon ?......
Just read a web page from dadant supply.... Says best to wait about 10 minutes.
😊
Says crystals form once vapors subside but recommends waiting a bit to put super back.
i just buyed 1 of those... but here is a question that is bugging me if the oxalic acid is toxic which it is will it not make the honey also toxic ?
Hey hope you found your answer! If not, yes it poisons the honey, do not eat oav treated honey
Good video straight and to the point
Was there another update video other then the no more varroa mites video?.
Yes, we posted an update a week after this video th-cam.com/video/zNxVyJcnMlA/w-d-xo.html
And as we head into spring we still cannot find any varroa mites on our bees, so the treatment was extremely effective.
Thanks,!!
I used this one a 2 hive deep with slatted racks and one hive actually got fire and another time it burned the bottom of the frames. Tested in before hand and followed the instructions and the fire still occurred.
David, very sorry to hear about this - obviously not our experience. Were you using the exact same vaporizer from Amazon? Or one from another company?
I used the Varrox Vaporiser
Is this the only mite treatment you guys use, have you tried the mite away quick strips? We are in our first year of beekeeping, and would like to not treat for mites, but know all to well, it will only be a matter of time that there's a problem. Nice job on the videos. God bless
It is the only treatment that we've done. We're in our third year with bees and the first year we just didn't see mites (or at least didn't know what we were looking for). This is usually the case because the hives are so new. But by the end of year two, all three hives had heavy mite infestations. I can't say that we did exhaustive research, but we decided to go with the oxalic acid vaporizer, because it was relatively cheap (equipment - the OA is super cheap), highly effective, and is for the most part organic as oxalic acid is naturally occurring (it's already in wax, honey, pollen, etc.). If you saw the follow-up video, the treatments completely eliminated the mites. Thanks for the kind words about the videos. Best wishes to you as you get started homesteading and uploading videos. Blessings to you and yours as well.
thanks for replying and for the kind words. its to bad that we as beekeepers, have to do something with the mites. I have been told by a few long time beekeepers in our area... you must treat or do something. I do like the OA vaporizer. seems like the way we will go. thanks for the videos. i look forward to the next one!
Couldn't agree more about the shame in having to treat, but when we started seeing bees with deformed wing virus, we knew we had to do something immediately. Thankfully, there seemed to be no issues from the treatments, all three hives survived the winter, and came out in the spring mite free. One caution, another viewer here mentioned using one of the cheaper vaporizers (looks like very thin sheet metal instead of a milled aluminum block) and it caught his hive on fire. Best wishes!
MAQ's work. If you want to have winter losses in the 10-15% range or better then use the mite away quick strips. Follow the instructions especially the temperature restriction part and you'll be happy. The new version called Formic Pro has a 2-year shelf-life.
Straight to the point instructions, well done and thank you for sharing.
You can get a fogger for the same price and it treats at 100% kill rate and you can do 3 hives in less than 30 seconds 😊
It must evaporate at the scale from 157 to 180 degrees celzius. Can you make sure with this evaporator that it does not overheat? If the heat is over 180 degrees, the oxalic acid produces the ultra toxic carbon monoxide that kills bees. Greetings from Slovenia.
That's the point of using a weak heater on a large block-- the (absorbed) heat of vaporization keeps the block from overheating, and the thermal mass keeps the temperature from rising quickly.
This must be a really weak heater. My homemade setup takes about a minute to melt, and only another minute to finish vaporizing.
If you are concerned, a thermocouple attached to the side with Kapton tape will let you monitor the temperature. You can get a thermocouple meter for under $15 from eBay.
Was there a reason you chose oxalic acid over other types of treatment like formic acid mixed with honey?
Good question. To be honest, I had not heard of the formic acid route until you just asked. We went with oxalic acid because it seems to be the most widely used (especially in Europe, Canada, and New Zealand) and effective treatment. A quick bit of research suggests that oxalic acid is more effective against the the varroa mites than formic acid, and less detrimental to brood and bees. But again, that is after a quick bit of research. I just found several good articles to read - which is one of the things I love about beekeeping - always much to learn. Hope you're well!
We used Formic strips this past year, seemed to work good however one Queen was lost out of three hives.
It is hard on bees
Tried Formic Pro carefully following directions and killed queens in 2 hives. Very toxic. Changed to OA
Mmmh, doesn't the vaporizer come with regular electric 110 Volt connection?
Not this one. They are now available, but are MUCH more expensive. That said, the electric ones work much better/faster - you don't have to wait for it to cool down between hives, which is a huge plus.
Well I have my bees in my back yard and don't need to have a battery to carry around. Any Idea where to get one with electric outlet. Are you talking about the one for $450? yeah that would be too expensive. What battery do you use? There are multiple 12Volt batteries with different Amp.
As you can see in the video, we use the battery on our four wheeler/quad. This is helpful because we treat at night when the bees are in the hive and we can put the headlights on things. But you could probably use an inexpensive battery charger (if you have one) to heat up the vaporizer. Just put the clamps together and test how long it takes to vaporize.
That is a good Idea. Home Depot sells them for $20. I used to have one to store my Harley in the Winter. just have to see how the clamps will connect.
Would this work?www.homedepot.com/p/Ultra-Performance-2-6-Amp-6-12-Volt-Manual-Battery-Charger-35001/301118075 if not I always can get a battery and then charge it with this. Then I don't have to lay 40 Ft of electric cable out in my backyard. Sorry for my questions, but I am a new beekeeper
The block is too big . too much mass to heat that is why it takes 7min to vaporize the acid .mine does it in one minute and a half.
It took 7 minutes because he used his ATV battery.
Good video explanation thanks
I see you with the State hat in the background
Great Video! The NCSU hat in the background shows your intelligence. Go Pack!
Someone is using thrumbnails from your video on Amazon to sell vaporizers.
Hi! I am Serg. I am from Ukraine. I want to buy the same vaporizer, but i am worried a little bit about thickness of that aluminium pan for OA because i use a litle bit different hives. It has much smaller hive entrance on the bottom board. How much inches does that pan have? And one more question! Could you say voltage in your battery? Thanks in advanse
P/S Sorry for my English.
Сергей Гадяцкий hey serge just wedge your hive front up works we'll use a Toyota hiace or similar glow plug
12V
Very nice : Merry Christmas from Ireland :) !
Thanks and Merry Christmas to you as well!
You are not using enough oxalic acid to treat your bees.
Interesting thanks for sharing.
226 Willms Haven
O'Connell Squares
Good info
Daphnee Forge
Sage Corners
Go, Pack!
Leffler Street
Laurel Turnpike
Murray Bridge
Jenkins Well
Cormier Trafficway
Dickens Hollow
Grant Prairie
Georgianna Green
Raoul Row
Alexis Forge
Any first hand experience with the new Oxalika Pro vaporizer?
th-cam.com/video/oIHxgNxyjfY/w-d-xo.html
Brendon Corners
Morissette Roads
Bruen Roads
Fernando Square
Hubert Pass
0073 Grady Point
Kiehn Square
Odie Valleys
Kolby Lane
Go Pack 🐺
Morar Unions
Reta Manors
Reynolds Mission
Serenity Centers
Crist Islands
Sven Vista
Zboncak Knolls
Yundt Unions
Weimann Run
Misael Skyway
Iva Skyway
Rau Union
I built my own. Less than $40 Canadian.
Block of aluminum Drilled for the acid tub. Drilled and threaded for the handle drilled and threaded for two diesel engine glow plugs a chunk of 10 gauge extension cord and two clips for the battery. Just a quick test to see if it worked and a teaspoon was entirely sublimated in 4 minutes 28 seconds. I have to time correct dosage but i'm guessing same maybe a bit less. Reason I built one is Cause Canadian these units are costing over 100 dollars and that is a retarded price for a block of aluminum with a handle and a cord heated by a $20 or less glow plug, I built this for $40 bought it all except the cord for (Had a scrap cord already) Under $40. Me!! Myself! No mass quantity discounts. No assembly line.
The one thing I have found to be very true about beekeeping is the prices for equipment are OBSCENE!!!! I am building much of my equipment if the time and material involved is worth it. Frames I buy unassembled because the time it takes to make them isn't worth it to make. But when a box is going for high 20 to low 30 dollar prices? I can pull my tools out of the garage and even sucking at wood work build 20 of those in a day easily. that's a 600 dollar day. Take off the materials and that's a 500 dollar day. one week of that and it paid for all my tools all the expenses and paid me a wage in a single week. I was trying to find a cheap extractor and was shocked. Found old antique 4 frame extractors rusted through and they still wanted $300.00. I know there is money in honey but a honey extractor with a rust hole as big as my fist is unrealistic and a gouge. After a whack of searching I bought a new stainless steel 2 frame for less then some folks are selling very cheap plastic ones for. In bees Search long and hard before you buy anything because there are folks ready to take advantage of the ignorant everywhere. Even my hives. I called around to small beekeepers and was quoted 260 dollars for a six frame nuc. Saw an ad from a commercial guy who was selling 10 frame production hives ready for supers for 270 dollars. 10 dollars more and ready to play.
Most important advice I can give to beekeepers is to be patient and shop around big time. People are lined up to take advantage of the ignorant. In this trade it's a majority from what I see.
Awesome. Self reliance!
I'm making these so bee keepers that want to vaporize can, for a good price point. I've be watching a lot of people make these now. Takes a lot of time and equipment.
Laisha Dale
Zieme Mountains
Lind Flat
Enoch Crossing
Borer Square
Renner Pass