Responding To Bi-Wire Hate Comments.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 ต.ค. 2022
- I've had quite a few comments declaring that I have no idea what I am doing when it comes to bi-wiring. Are they right?
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Its amazing how some people are always criticising others that are actually making videos and providing quality content. If they're so knowledgeable. Why dont they post vlogs, telling us the correct way of doing things? Keep up the excellent work and thumbs up.😀😀
I find it baffling, it's not their way, so it's wrong. At least they are giving me material to make a video!
@@UTILITARIANTVUK In an ironic way they are even supporting the channel.
@@terrykemp8131 Definitely, The TH-cam algorithm recognizes videos with more comments and pushes them out to a wider audience.
I think these forums are en excellent place for respectful disagreement. It is part of how we learn. If somebody thinks they OP is doing it wrong they shouldn’t have to create a video to express themselves. I am totally good with a lot of content providers that I sometimes disagree with. But, I think being respectful about it is important. And good for the OP if they inspired a discussion.
Try playing a cd on a turntable, that will throw them because it does work I tried it honest!
Good video mate, glad I am included :)), one day when I have the guts I will take apart my amplituner to check something.
You are right. Fact is, speakers with 4 binding posts are designed to be capable of bi-amping, and bi-wiring is simply a necessity if you run them on one Amp, whether you use the jumper plates, a jumper wire, or proper bi-wire cables. I contend that if you spent the money on speakers capable of bi-amping, nut up and buy proper cables. Either way, the jumper plate does the same thing, and there is absolutely no SQ difference. A standard speaker has crossovers built in to separate the lows from highs... a bi-amp speaker simply hard separates the filters in the speakers so that one set of posts feed the woofer, the other set feed the tweets. Easy enough. This type of speaker lets you separate control of power to each driver, so if you wanted to run one type of Amp to the tweets, and another to the woofs, you can. That's it... people are making this way to goddamned complicated.
Seems the haters are not understanding the difference between bi-wiring & bi-amping.
I used to install big in car entertainment (ice) many years ago and the higher end systems would have dedicated amps for different frequencies. These would be controlled by a crossover unit and the results were amazing. This would be same as bi-amping.
I can see how Bi-wiring could possibly help with better sound. It is possible that the signal is cleaner, but personally I would think that rather than 2 sets of cables per speaker a single better quality cable would be better.
Changing jumpers does make sense as cheap & easy to do, so why not.
Love that you can prove that speaker manufacturers agree with you according to their wiring instructions 😂
ok look it´s easy
- Normal = 1 stereo amp, 1 set of wire, crossover in the speakers splits the incoming signal.
- Bi-wire = 1 stereo amp, 2 sets of wire, crossover in the speakers splits the incoming signal.
- Bi-amp = 2 stereo power amps, 1 set of wire for each amp (2 sets total) , crossover in the speakers splits the incoming signal. (2 stereo power amps = 2 DIFFERENT boxes, 1 for HF and 1 for LF)
- Active system/speakers = multiple power amps, each one is directly connected to each driver in the speaker, signal is crossed over BEFORE the power amps, most often by DSP. (not the same as powered speakers)
- Amps with high pass filters = cuts of the low end of the signal to your main stereo speakers, only for use with subwoofer. (Blue Sound does this on some of their products)
I hope this clear things up....... and btw when using a surround receiver you can wire it how ever you want but the speakers are never really bi-amped when it´s 1 box with 1 PSU supporting all the channels.
Don't bother with bi-wiring, I know the argument of separation with the crossover but you will not likely hear a difference, you are better off just removing the cheesy metal jumpers and replacing them with good wire jumpers. Bi-amping is the way to go.
I am lucky enough to own several pairs of speakers, now for me some of them do sound better when bi wired, however some actually sound worse, and some no difference at all, at least to my lug holes. There will be some electrical difference though, resistance and capacitance would be affected by in effect doubling the amount of wire connected to the speaker. However, the type of wire used and the length would also have an impact. Also sending the audio same audio signal to both terminals with the link removed would change the signal path through the speaker crossover and this may have an effect (might not though in every speaker). Also some speaker makers only ever use single terminals due to complications with bi wiring. So I don't think your completely wrong, however there will be people that do hear a difference. Personally, I use a single length of cable, with jumpers made up with the same speaker cable like you mentioned and that seem to work for me, love the channel and thank you for all your content
You explained it exactly how its done properly in previous videos 👍
I have an MSc in Audio Engineering and would never be as rude to leave a comment like some of these.
I'm certainly no expert and have no real preference one way or another, but to me using double cable with four terminations at each speaker seems to be a very legitimate way, and next best way to bi wire other than bi amping / bi wiring (which I'm sure is probably the purest form) and is obviously what some people seem to be getting confused with. I happen to have speakers that are bi wireable, so I'm definitely going to be sticking something in to all eight binding posts! Also - your point about the instructions that come with amplifiers is correct - I have cambridge and arcam amps / power amps, and both sets of instructions show bi wiring done like in your video, so well done mate 👍, ignore the idiots. In the grand scheme of things, not really something to get too hot and bothered about anyway 🤷🏻♂️
Bi-wire, same amp terminals, separate Hi-Lo conn. on spkrs. Bi-amp, separate amps for Hi and Lo, crossover usually ahead of amps.
Great video! My simple/lazy way to bi-wire is not to even bi-wire but just replace the plates with the same cable and use them as jumpers. It makes no audible noticeable difference since it's the same power into both drivers compared to two full length cable runs.
With bi-amping, you do hear difference because of the more power and it's more noticeable on harder to drive speakers like my Polk LSiM703s.
I have yet to try a tube amp for the tweeter and class D for the woofer. I have the gear but just too lazy.
Funnily enough I have a pair of Cambridge audio S30 speakers and I use a section of the same speaker cable as jumpers and there absolutely is a difference, do I know why? Nope, but there is a difference and whilst my life might not be worth much I bet you that you would notice a difference too! In fact I am going to go over and check now. Ok back, and the difference wasn't just marginal it was massive. I don't know if it is specific to these speakers but you 100% would want to use a jumper of some sort.
@@ggproductions7078 I think the difference could be the material of the plates. For me, it was pretty negligible. I think also how you wire might affect it as well. Like the positive into the upper but negative to the lower or vice versa.
@@t0nyxgq may well be the case, the materials will definitely make a difference of that there surely can be no doubt. But my speaker wire jumpers, if we can call them that, just go from the boring old negative to negative. Funny old world eh. There have been some where the difference didn't seem particularly apparent but for some reason on these it is massive, again, no idea why given they are pretty small, not super expensive when they came out, 15 year old speakers, but there we go.
Hi just out of interest @ 11:03 i see you have one speaker connected to Section B (left Channel) and the other speaker connectd to section A (Right channel ) on the Marantz. Can i ask why you did that and not have both conected to L+ R in section A ?
It was only a short clip. In the full video I connected them all.
@@UTILITARIANTVUK ahh okay thank you for confrming. You won't believe what i'm about to tell you , but after owning my Marantz Pm5005 for 6 years, i have just noticed after buying a new amp that the speaker binding posts on the Marantz are back to front. Basically the left and right channels reversed! i can;t believe from a company like Marantz they'd manage to mess something like this up. i should have noticed before, but this one the first amp that i bought, so i didnt have anyhting to compare it with.
@@AmbientWandererParanoid by Black Sabbath, the opening guitar I have found to be always on the left channel. Also lots of left and right channel test signals on TH-cam. I've also come across a couple of interconnect cables that have been wrongly coloured. Lol.
In a previous setup of mine it was impossible to see the cables at the back of the everything, in which case with the volume quarter of the way up just touch the centre pin of the RCA plug, you'll hear a hum telling you what input and what channel the cable should be connected to.
Wonder too, should the cables to tweeter and woofer be of different gauge or material quality.
The thought here is that the low frequency would travel down the fat wire, the highs down the finer strands.
There’s a lot of snake oil in audiophile sales.
You are correct Sir, let the haters stew in their own ignorance. Bi-wiring may have validity as some types of wire could be better for low frequencies while other types may be better for high frequencies. I'm still trying to figure out which is which, solid vs stranded for example.
Well done you biwired exactly the same way I did, I used 1 pair of wires to the speaker then rather than the plates supplies I added a small length of the same wire to connect to the other connection. Repeated it on the other speaker. Simple why run 2 pairs of wires to one speaker which like you say is the same thing. I use Bowers & Wilkins 607s2 silver anniversary speakers & the same marantz pm 6007 as you. I am experiencing beautiful musical clarity of sound never heard before. There are people who rant out there then when they wake up the see the simple solution which works. They are the sort that believes you should put milk in the cup before the teabag, it makes no sense as it tastes the same. Keep up your good work.
Milk in the cup before a teabag, ridiculous! Ha!
Correct! This is not so complicated.
my understanding of bi wiring is the amp should have 2 sets of binding posts, 1 cable goes to low freq 1 goes to hi freq speaker posts, so separate feeds from the amp to separate drivers with the jumper cables removed, because the crossover in the speakers has been split the drivers are independent of each over so they receive a supposedly better signal to process into improved sound. one thing to bear in mind is the frequencies are dealt with by the crossover not the amp it sends full frequencies through both sets of cables.
Make's no difference if the Amp has one set of binding posts.
You're so right, bi-wiring is absolutely bullocks, there's really no electric difference between a single wire and bi-wiring. Bi-amping is totally different though... people just don't understand the difference
L Bi/wire or is it Bi/amp using my Quad 34 preamp with 2 Quad 303 power amps into my Q acoustics 3050s and it does make a differance the one channel on the R/H power amp drives the highs and the other channel drives the lows and the same with the L/H power amp and it does make a differance in sound quality not in volume really but clarity and better bass definition where as monoblocks being single channel would be driving all speaker units at once
I looked this up on the internet, I was left pretty confused, all the explanations I could see did not go into how the speakers were being crossed over in any specific case, Most said that the high frequency went down one pair of cables and low the other (But HOW?)
If the speaker crossover is being defeated at the binding post (removing the connection plate, how does that work in circuit??? the passive filter is still in line????)
Tthe high / low pass filtering has to be done in the pre amp or amp via electronics in the amp, BUT nobody I can see is saying how this is achieved practically and how it matches up to the Speaker cabinet and individual frequency response of the tweeter /woofer/ mid in the cabinet.
For me the most understandable scenario is just using 4 sets of wired fused at the AMP and speaker bindings, as you have it, that is for left an right main speakers, and for the Speaker at least you know how its crossed over in the speaker cab with the manufacturer filter network tuned specifically for the driver array in the cab exactly as the speaker manufacturer tuned it.
Any perceived audible differences are the due to transmission line enhancement that could possibly be achieved with two vs one wire pair with no change to the crossover dynamics.
In all other cases, Bi amping, bi wire and defeating the speaker crossover, its never made clear how the crossover frequency split is practically being made at the amp side,, it's mostly so very muddled.
Summary, all the explanations i can see on this topic fail to go into the detail of how or if, the actual frequency split is achieved, how that frequency split is tuned for the specific speaker is just brushed over. and the explanation either naive or incomplete.
I like the way you did it, I think this is a "right" as you can do it without a detailed explanation/ study of how the frequency split is achieved and tuned for the specific individual speaker. which you never get.
I don't think the crossover is defeated completely. I think the crossover is still used to some degree to increase or decrease the frequency range for the tweeters and mid/bass.
@@UTILITARIANTVUK You're correct, the 'crossover is not defeated completely'....although many of your viewers are defeated by the notion that the high frequency (current) signal passes through the tweeter wire pair from the split point at the amplifier end (known as the Y split) to the tweeter terminals on the speaker, and the low frequency (current) signal passes along the woofer wire pair from the Y split at the amplifier end to the woofer terminals on the speaker. This is because the amplifier is really not 'pushing' the signal (current) along the wires, rather, the combination of drive unit and crossover components 'present' the amplifier with a frequency dependent load and the amplifier 'sees' this 'demand'and supplies current accordingly. So, a 50hz bass note at the amplifier terminals in the form of an AC voltage potential 'sees' a relatively high impedance down the tweeter wires (due mainly to the input capacitor of the tweeter section of the crossover) and next to no current flows along the tweeter wire. The woofer wires present a different perspective to the amplifier's 50hz bass signal, however, and it 'sees' only the relatively low impedance of the series inductor of the woofer crossover and the mid/bass drive unit, so consequently current flows from the amplifier to the woofer terminals along the woofer wires of the bi-wire system. A 10Khz voltage potential at the amplifier terminals, however, 'sees' a relatively low impedance along the tweeter wires, compared to the high impedance it 'sees' down the woofer wires, and consequently the 10Khz high frequency current ends up at the tweeter. Of course actual music is a very complex signal, but each part of that signal is 'sorted' by the two (or however many elements the speaker may have) crossover filters and arrive at the desired destination AND THEY DO SO INDEPENDENTLY OF EACH OTHER DOWN THEIR OWN WIRES.....despite what other videos will tell you!!!!
Does bi-wiring work? I don't know. But IF it does, it works as described here.
Good vid man, I tried biwiring my wharfedale diamond 12.2 and I did hear a very slight more airey sound.
Thanks for the comment. What cable did you use?
@@UTILITARIANTVUK I used KabelDirekt Pure Copper Cable 2x4mm² (from Amazon). I used a denon pma800ne amp. Ive sold the denon. Now i have Audiolab 6000a got it set up the standard way (not bi-wired) 👍 Keep up the good work, don't take them other comments to heart. Your fun and Professional. Please don't change like Randy (cheapaudioman) he does way too much editing now, his changed to much i liked his older vids.
If you removed the jumper plates that would explain a change and improvement in sound via a better connection from amp to speakers.
You say it is the same signal in both wires when bi-wiring. I don't believe it is. The crossover filters the unwanted frequency range out and when they are not traveling through the circuit, they are not present in that cable at all.
bi-wiring effectively increases wire gauge; bi-wiring two 16 gauge wires makes into a 13 gauge wire. When I used two 16 gauge wire to connect my passive subwoofer, I, anyone can hear the fuller sound. Then combing two 14 gauge wires makes into 11 gauge wire. I can here fuller sound again. Now, I use as bigger wire as banana plugs can accept for my passive subwoofer and bookshelf speakers.
It may be hard for people to tell differences with bookshelf speakers. However, on passive subwoofers, the difference is so huge, everyone can hear fuller sound.
Please make another video with a passive subwoofer bi-wired.
Not sure it works like that. While it is correct that running 2 sets of wire in parallel will increase it's gauge, it's not really applicable in bi wiring. In a 3 way speaker for instance, one wire drives the tweeter and mid and one wire drives the bass. So the bass is still only getting a signal through a 16 gauge wire, as are the tweeter and the mid. There is no difference in resistance.
@@UTILITARIANTVUK In a 3 way speaker, woofer generates electric wave when woofer is moving to original or 0 position. The back waves will interfere with mid driver and tweeter when same wire is shared. With bi-wiring, the amplifier will deal with back wave.
If you are going to test bi-wiring again, use 3 way speaker with at least 10" or bigger woofer then. People will hear difference.
Excellent video, thank you
Stuff the haters love your channel keep up the great work 👍
Thanks 👍
Yes remove jumper and run BI-WIRES to Hi-Lo conn. You got it right.
I don't understand why people think bi-amping is the same as bi-wiring. Bi-wiring from a single amp really makes no difference to sound over standard wiring. You are still using the same crossover. Bi-Amping can have a difference, if the amps are configured properly.
As a note, bi-wiring / bi-amping still uses the internal crossover in a lot of speakers. They still go through the internal crossover, hence why they only need to be connected with jumpers on the outside.
Bi-wiring does make a difference. The crossover in the speaker will force the treble and bass to travel down separate cables. This offers the opportunity to use a lower/thicker gauge cable that's better suited to bass. They say that this also keeps the delicate treble cleaner however I'm not sold on this. I think the main reason is simply doubling the cables will half the gauge and reduce the resistance the speaker shows to the amp. Just running two cables to the same posts or one that's double the thickness will improve the sound almost the same as bi-wiring. However audiophiles with revealing systems and big pockets are happy to pay big bucks for that extra few %
I’ve got pockets and I have A/B’d Biwire setups to death and I have tried blind tests. Maybe it’s my ears but I can’t hear the difference and nobody else I have run it by can either. My experience is anecdotal to be sure, but I don’t bi wire any more and I don’t feel like I am missing anything other than less spaghetti.
Intresting…. So if using 2 sets of cables will force the HF and LF signal to travel thru different cables before the crossover, where exactly is the full range signal high passed and low passed? In the amp?!? 😂
@@lekmannen9990The amp puts out a full signal. The crossovers have high and low pass filters. This cuts off/blocks the bass going to the tweeters and the treble to the bass drivers. Just like water through two pipes, if you turn the tap off on one then it will flow through the other.
@@mychildrenareashamedtobese3398Thanks for your post. l understand your frustration. The difference is subtle. If you are using a single cable with one end terminated for bi-wireing then l can't hear a difference either. I used to run two separate cables (Audioquest Kilamajaro) two sounded better than one. Now l just run one and use the other to my super tweeters. Now it sounds even better.
@@stephens2r338 it wasn’t frustrating. I don’t get emotionally invested in setup experiments. They work or they don’t. Either outcome is fine. I never attempted a single cable biwire, as that makes zero sense to me. I’ve done bi-amping, bi wiring off of one binding post on the amp and bi wiring separating the A and B speaker terminals on an amp equipped to do so. None of my AB testing ended in a result that led me to believe any of those setups was a warranted upgrade. As far as I can tell the crossover on any of my speakers (I have 8 pairs currently) can handle the frequency distribution just as well without all the fuss.
Your experience is different but then so is your equipment. Our mileage has varied.
Tried on Wharfedale Evo 4.2, no luck or what, didn't sound any better but gloomy high on the tweeters.
Bi-wiring and bi-amping are different animals.
Every amp I’ve seen with speaker A&B options have their outputs fed from the same amp, so there is no independent amplification going on there.
Forgive me if I’m going blind, but it does appear your hookup in the thumbnail has the HF and LF wired out of phase.
Yabba dabba do!🙂
I Yabba Dabba Did! To go with the 'I Did It Wrong' title. You're the first to notice!
no difference in sound for biwiring for me personally. only advisable when connecting single wiring to use cross-terminals. e.g. when plates installed on speaker, if connecting "minus" to the bottom terminal, "plus" better to connect to the top terminal. this way plates metal will have symmetrical effect on both high and low freq on speaker.
I'll give it a try!
Also try another diagonal connection, + to LF and - to HF.
Its called 'Nordost Way' and sound good in my Wharfedale Diamond 230, warmer and fuller.
I've tried biwire before, it did make a very litle bit different sound, cleaner and more transparent, but its not my taste.
Your extremely lucky that I don't understand any of that or i would come up with an good argument. I recently bought some cheap speakers and there was a capacitor on the tweeters, so after watching all these warrior's making their fancy crossovers and building there own cabinets with thousand's of dollars worth of equipment, ( all of it was fantastic i might add) i became adventurous and I amazoned some small crossovers to match and some banana posts to replace the crap spring loaded ones, also added foam to the back and sides and it was thicker than the cabinets 😂. They do sound better and bass is deeper, so in finishing i thank you for your input, i always enjoy your videos when I find them and keep this comment personal as I don't want to be drawn and quartered for the criminal act performed on those speakers.
All the best from bazz downunder.
Sry no nothing about audio but if that plate is on its just the same as the two wires to one pole ,,,is it not now surly wire length may be an issue or thicker cables lol
You see rite off some people don't know the diff between bi-amp and bi-wire. I wired my second system in living room,( ok components, AR bi-wireable spkrs) both standard and bi-wire and no diff. Good Tara Labs 4 cond. wire. I'm alway's getting called names by "audiophiles" who just refuse to admit they on other thing's I call out as wrong could be experiencing expectation bias. Last one was audiophile wall outlets. Seems people who experience placebo and get called on it get very violent and rude.
Hi, well done for stepping into this very misunderstood topic for a second round! Just a few points for consideration.
Firstly, when you replace the jumper plate with a piece of wire, you will likely improve the sound as the plates are horrible conductors. This is not the same as bi-wiring from a single set of binding posts as you are still using single wires from the amp to the speakers.
Secondly, it makes no difference if you choose to connect the amp on a single pair of binding posts or two pairs of binding posts, they are fed from the same source in the amp, it’s just that the posts are sometimes individually switched to allow speakers to be used in different rooms. When you tried the Wharfedales with four wires and heard a difference you confirmed that bi-wiring works for you. If you connected the amp end to a single pair it would have been identical, electrically speaking.
Finally, and I know this is the one that the haters will refuse to understand, the two sets of wires only carry the current appropriate to the driver, as the crossover presents a rising impedance as it gets further away from the operational frequency range of the driver. Since it is current that matters when it comes to driving the speaker cones, it makes no difference that the voltage (signal) presented at the binding posts on the amp is the same for each pair of wires.
As for my experience, I have two systems and, like you, I noticed a significant improvement when bi-wiring. I’ve since gone to the trouble of replacing all of the crossover components in both pairs of speakers to great effect. In my lounge system, I even added a third pair of binding posts as they are three-way towers, so I could tri-wire them.
I don’t go for very expensive cables, just top quality copper, so this is not about spending huge amounts on cable. The crossover components however, were eye-watering considering the original cost of the speakers, but hey, it’s a free country 😊
You, sir, deserve to be congratulated for a rare thing, a sensible and technically sound internet comment on this subject !! 🔊
@@PlatypusPerspective Thank you. Every once in a while I feel motivated to make the attempt. Unfortunately, more often than not I receive, if not quite a torrent of abuse, certainly a very firm rebuttal.
@@markcarrington8565Yet another person who understands current flow in speaker crossovers and the wires feeding them! Have you by any chance seen M Zillch's attempt at explaining this, fairly easy to understand, bit of electrical theory in his 'Bi-wiring, The Truth Revealed'? Hilarious, isn't it? Especially the hokus-pocus with the spectrum analyser! Like watching a child playing with something he doesn't understand. I'm blocked from leaving comments on his videos....in spite of my offering a crash-course in electronics - a field I've worked in since the mid60s.
Well in your drawing, the first one where you use two separate wire from amp to spkr is correct bi-wire. Running one and then jumpering at spkr with a piece of wire is not bi-wired, it's same as using jumper plates (99% the same). With separate wires from amp to spkr, because of the crossover at the speakers the highs and the lows have different current needs. Actually not the same signal thru the two separate pairs. But it really still makes little to no difference, again back to my placebo comment.
Remove the jumper plates and simply/cheaply upgrade with good quality wire/jumpers. It's not bi-wiring but, the removal of the plates improves sound via a better transmission of signal/power from amp.
You're doing a good video, some people need to bi-wire their brain to keyboard..
No hate here but really even with top notch spkrs, bi-wire (in theory) is better because of the difference in current needs. With good amp, good spkrs, good wire you will prob have no significant diff. tho. Bi-amping, another story all together.
I have had a bit of look with the bi-sexy, if that's any good😁
An easy way to explain to these idiots is “ Haven’t you ever seen a set of speaker cables with two banana plugs at one end and four at the other?
So I got curious by your video, researched, and believe I understood the following:
Bi-wiring out of the same (amp-side) binding post set only has an effect if you (a) trust that cable properties make a difference for different frequencies (which is physically explainable - higher frequency have e.g. a higher 'skin effect' - in short: the higher the frequency the more the current runs only on the outside of one wire-element) and (b) you are indeed using different cables (e.g., different thickness, different material mix, ....).
Note: This is not about expensive-cable voodoo, but rather say e.g, you want to use a thinner cable for the high frequencies' range - you could reach the effect to tone a bright speaker a bit down.
Whether this will result in audible difference, is up to (your) test. But: bi-wiring allows you to separate the effect that cable properties have on the sound for the two different frequency ranges. Hence: it gives you one parameter more to influence sound.
What you show in your video is consistent: if you use the same wire, you will have almost no effect. (Except: it might transmit 'more' power in total - but that would be reached also by using a thicker cable or twin cables into the same speaker binding post)
It's just not worth arguing with audiophiles: "Let us not speak of them, but look, and pass on"
People get so angry over a hobby. A hobby supposed to be enjoyable not stressful! lol
Your comment is the same as the original hate comments Utilitarian TV received, it's just the other side of the fence - to lump audiophiles into a single group that should be ignored is ridiculous.
@@skip1835 You may be kinda right, I have used the term to address the stereotype, not the category as a whole; read it with that as a context. I thought it was implied but looks like I was wrong
@@luca6819 Thanks for getting back Luca - I guess I've been a bit on my toes myself as the cable debates and the specification debates and so forth rage on over YT - - and usually, as you know, audiophiles are quite often described as being, well, for lack of a better term, hypnotized - and actually, over the last 3 or 4 months, I've been completely avoiding those sites - like Utilitarian TV said, it's supposed to be and enjoyable hobby - thanks again Luca, sorry if I was a bit harsh, I do get you - Skip ( :
@@skip1835 No worries, I should have spent more words and been more specific, my bad! 👍🏻
Please, something better and not expensive. If I wanted to buy 1.000 cables I would buy a new system. Best.😅
Ah mate, just ignore the idiots. 😂😂your channel is amazing! You’re brilliant. 🙏✨✨What you say is real and please keep it real. You’re gonna need to do an update on the audiophile speaker cable and interconnects now to then 😂😂what a crock of crap that is. I’ve got £10 ones and £100 ones. No different. #Fact. 😂😂only difference is, is that you’re a mug if you pay for the pretty ones! #fact Take it easy mate.✨✨✨🙏🙏👌
omg people are stupid bi wirieng is using 2 pair of speaker cable for a pair of speaker with set binding post, bi amping is using 4 channel channel amp for speakers with dual binding poast and dual (2 pair) of speaker cable
I give a comprehensive explanation of bi-wiring, INCLUDING measurements, here: th-cam.com/video/McH2tlfj0vo/w-d-xo.html
I almost regret watching this video, but now it makes a lot more sence and I'm now more the wiser. ; ) Thanks M. Zillch
@@T0kal0shBut M Zillch's video on Bi-wiring The Truth Revealed' is pure nonsense, and doesn't reveal 'Truth' at all - it merely trowels-on another layer of pseudoscience, especially the performance with the spectrum analyser....which merely proves that M Zillch knows nothing of current flow in loudspeaker crossovers. I'm blocked from 'Revealing the Truth' on his site to those who have been fooled by his misguided attempt to de-bunk the bi-wiring 'Myth'.
Frustrated bi-sexuals !
You have made your comment sound like these were all from the same person, when in fact these comments were from multi posters, it wasn't just you and another poster having a disagreement, many posters have pointed out your error, these were not HATE comments as you called them, I was trying to point out that joining two wires together and putting them on one speaker terminal is going to make no difference except that by joining the cables in this way will lower the resistance and if using inferior cable you may hear a change, but good quality cable would solve that, it is a way of connecting a speaker but it's not bi-wiring.
I wonder whether you actually watched the video. The comments are on there, so why would anyone believe they were from the same person? You don't think that someone asking me to 'delete my channel' is a hate comment? If it's not bi-wiring, why does every speaker manufacturer have it in their operating manuals?
@@UTILITARIANTVUK Well when I showed your video to a friend of mine they also said you made it sound like you were talking about one person, and I have not seen these so-called hate comments that you say you received, but I have spent the last 2 days looking up and studying about bi-wiring and the consensus is that what you see illustrated in the manuals is how to connect bi-wirable speakers to a standard amp and proper bi-wiring consists of a heavy cable for low signals and a light gauge cable for high signals.
2 days of studying (40 minutes searching Google), hilarious! How you and your (made up) friend can deduce from that video that I'm talking about one person is mind boggling. How about you show some proof, back up your argument, make your own video. You should be able to considering you've done 2 days of studying.
Show me in this manual where it states to use heavy and light gauge cable www.wharfedale.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/Diamond-12-User-Manual-200923-print.pdf
Or here: www.manualslib.com/manual/967015/Kef-Reference-1.html?page=18#manual