Dude!!! This video saved my ass. Blower failure driving through Nevada. Replaced blower and resistor with spare I carry with me, no luck…. Stoped overnight in NM… searched the Youyubes… got your life saving video. All good now. Thanks.
Solid video, it's so easy to miss those types of things; ESPECIALLY when we are busy and being pulled from this job to that...thanks for sharing this with us!
Thank you Rick for this video . Though very basic skills, knowing to read and listen are so important! Admiting you didn´t pay the neccessary attention -as we all do at some time - is encouraging, again for all of us.
Thank you so much for this detailed video. I recently had what I thought to be the blower motor go out on my same year sprinter. After seeing this video in a quick troubleshoot of the fuse tracked the problem to the regulator specifically. A quick fix and back up and at it. Thank you!
nice man. have found a bunch of jeeps like that with the blower fuse burnt on one side. also charger/ challenger head lights. bad contacts in the fuse box. u can see the pins in the box barely makes a contact on the fuse for the amount of current thats going through it.
I’m being told to not include an actuator replacement as part of the blower motor replacement. I’m not sure what that is, but it’s 170ish bucks and I don’t think that it’s necessary. What do you think? Did you replace yours?
You are 100% correct Dennis and I probably should have said something in the video. I could see that the terminal showed signs of heat just like the fuse. The correct and proper repair would be to fix that also. This is my personal van and I’m really cheap so I chose to drive around with my amp clamp and U-scope hooked to up to monitor it for a long trip up to NC. If this was a customer’s car, I would have written up an estimate for a complete and proper repair.
Looks like that van has a blower control module rather than a resistor. Wiring diagram has a picture of a transistor on it. You can also tell by the way it's ramping current when the speed is changed.
I'm curious as to what (or whom) caused that fuse panel to dislodge? I wonder if the tech on your airbag service dislodged it while working? Does the fuse panel stay in firmly since you discovered the issue, or does it have a broken retaining clip or two?
I’m not sure why that lower panel was off. It snapped into place and hasn’t moved yet. This is my personal van and the first time I’ve needed to take a look at the fuses. It might have been off since I bought it.
Ok...so I have a 2007 sprinter..same fuse box row was pushed in...30amp fuse is good...but I have no power/red lights to the 3 dial fan control panel in the dash..have power to blower motor...any help would be appreciated.everything else in the dash works..5hrs into it yesterday
I disagree completely. The fuse did not blow from over current. It failed do to a failed connection on ONE leg of the fuse. Tension of the terminal does not eliminate corrosion or fretting. Over current is indicated by the link of the fuse failing. The leg of the fuse failed due to the heat(watts) of current times the voltage drop of that leg.
Steve I agree with everything you said. Maybe my explanation on the video was oversimplified. I think I say something like “ I’ve dealt with melted fuse blocks on GMs before” If this was a customer’s vehicle, the correct repair would be to replace the melted terminals or entire fuse block and that is how I would have written up the repair order. Unfortunately, no one pays me to fix my own vehicles and I’m a cheapskate so I chose to just monitor the current with my amp clamp and U-scope to see if trouble shows up. I think the key takeaway I wanted techs to take away from this video was just that not paying attention to correct service info can lead you to trouble.
These situations are always solved by using a higher amp fuse. :)) It’s a joke,don’t ever listen to this advice! I’m wondering how that piece of the fuse box got pushed in,perhaps kicked getting in and out?
Dude!!! This video saved my ass. Blower failure driving through Nevada. Replaced blower and resistor with spare I carry with me, no luck…. Stoped overnight in NM… searched the Youyubes… got your life saving video. All good now. Thanks.
You just got another subscriber.
Nice one Rich. Can't tell you how many times I've been down the rabbit hole for stuff like this. Happens to all of us, no matter how good you are!
Good one RICH F. thank you.
Solid video, it's so easy to miss those types of things; ESPECIALLY when we are busy and being pulled from this job to that...thanks for sharing this with us!
Thank you Rick for this video . Though very basic skills, knowing to read and listen are so important! Admiting you didn´t pay the neccessary attention -as we all do at some time - is encouraging, again for all of us.
Thanks i just had this problem , your video safed me today from a chop visit and an cold day driving😅
Nice Work Rich! Great Share!
The shock of no code Euro, wow! lol. Thank you for the tips, tricks & advice, and thank you for sharing!
Thank you so much for this detailed video. I recently had what I thought to be the blower motor go out on my same year sprinter. After seeing this video in a quick troubleshoot of the fuse tracked the problem to the regulator specifically. A quick fix and back up and at it. Thank you!
Awesome Video Rich !!
🤜🤛
Great job. Happens to all of ous, nice find
Thanks for sharing Rich👍
Thank you that’s exactly happening with me right now thank you for your help
nice man. have found a bunch of jeeps like that with the blower fuse burnt on one side. also charger/ challenger head lights. bad contacts in the fuse box. u can see the pins in the box barely makes a contact on the fuse for the amount of current thats going through it.
I’m being told to not include an actuator replacement as part of the blower motor replacement. I’m not sure what that is, but it’s 170ish bucks and I don’t think that it’s necessary. What do you think? Did you replace yours?
Even if the pin retention is good it doesn't mean the electrical connection is good. The terminal in the fuse block got roasted just like the fuse
You are 100% correct Dennis and I probably should have said something in the video. I could see that the terminal showed signs of heat just like the fuse. The correct and proper repair would be to fix that also.
This is my personal van and I’m really cheap so I chose to drive around with my amp clamp and U-scope hooked to up to monitor it for a long trip up to NC. If this was a customer’s car, I would have written up an estimate for a complete and proper repair.
Looks like that van has a blower control module rather than a resistor. Wiring diagram has a picture of a transistor on it. You can also tell by the way it's ramping current when the speed is changed.
You’re right Matt. I was just using a generic term there.
Thank you my brother I has the wrong fuse in place. Where do I find a proper fues diagram for this 2018 sprinter
I'm curious as to what (or whom) caused that fuse panel to dislodge? I wonder if the tech on your airbag service dislodged it while working? Does the fuse panel stay in firmly since you discovered the issue, or does it have a broken retaining clip or two?
I’m not sure why that lower panel was off. It snapped into place and hasn’t moved yet. This is my personal van and the first time I’ve needed to take a look at the fuses. It might have been off since I bought it.
Yes, that was suspicious to me also.
Could that dislodged panel have temporally contacted a ground causing the fuse to blow and melt?
@@rickowens4397 that’s a good point I didn’t even think about. Once I realized my mistake, I never bothered to look. Now I have to know.
Ok...so I have a 2007 sprinter..same fuse box row was pushed in...30amp fuse is good...but I have no power/red lights to the 3 dial fan control panel in the dash..have power to blower motor...any help would be appreciated.everything else in the dash works..5hrs into it yesterday
Peter - Same thing here...any updates on your problem and fix?
Hail yeah same shit happen to me cool
Good but I wished you show the cause of the problem 👍
I disagree completely. The fuse did not blow from over current. It failed do to a failed connection on ONE leg of the fuse. Tension of the terminal does not eliminate corrosion or fretting. Over current is indicated by the link of the fuse failing. The leg of the fuse failed due to the heat(watts) of current times the voltage drop of that leg.
Steve I agree with everything you said. Maybe my explanation on the video was oversimplified. I think I say something like “ I’ve dealt with melted fuse blocks on GMs before”
If this was a customer’s vehicle, the correct repair would be to replace the melted terminals or entire fuse block and that is how I would have written up the repair order. Unfortunately, no one pays me to fix my own vehicles and I’m a cheapskate so I chose to just monitor the current with my amp clamp and U-scope to see if trouble shows up.
I think the key takeaway I wanted techs to take away from this video was just that not paying attention to correct service info can lead you to trouble.
These situations are always solved by using a higher amp fuse. :)) It’s a joke,don’t ever listen to this advice! I’m wondering how that piece of the fuse box got pushed in,perhaps kicked getting in and out?
Wasted to much time showing us your fancy tool that didnt help anybody or even you actually fix anything.
Had
?