What troubles me is lean angles in the wet. On public roads, I'm not concerned, as I ride with a much greater safety margin in the rain, and especially in the first rain after prolonged dry weather which can be treacherously greasy. No, what troubles me (and amazes me) is watching moto gymkhana or Japanese police trainees riding at extreme angles in the pouring rain. I'd just be too scared, as learning the limits seems to be done by trial and error and plenty of falls. However, what they do learn is how to train their instincts to save mild slips and regain composure. Andrei, it would be interesting to hear of your experiences riding at the limit in the wet.
Had instructors that trained in Japan. Aside for skills of course the real enabler for those wet MotoGymkhana and really deep lean tight turns are the high quality tarmac they have in Japan. Even on the Honda school where I train (very clean already compared to public roads) we were still traction limited on the tarmac based on feedback from the instructors. I’m also inclined to say that the Japanese also use sports tires and tire warmers but Sakuta-san (King of Motogymkhana) got podium finish on touring tires (w/o warmers if I remember his blog correctly) last season on his ZRX1200R.
"learning the limits seems to be done by trial and error and plenty of falls" - that's exactly how it's done😄 I'm working on the video about rain riding, so there will be a section about traction!
My first bike was a 98 bandit S600 that I bought in 2012, the previous owner claimed she was a daily driver, but after going on a few rides, I quickly realized, we were still riding on 1998 OEM rubber. 😅 Could've ended badly as I was a new rider and of course the first thing I did was find out how fast she goes in a straight line. This video is a good segway into changing your own tires!
If I had a dollar each time somebody asked me if they need to change the 10+ year old tire with a lot of tread left - I would have about 30-40$ right now🤑
Great video! I feel more confident about leaning into turns with my current tires now. However, I will probably upgrade to more known and trusted brand tires in the near future. Also, the name spelling was perfect!
Exact same MRF tire combo on my Suzuki Gixxer 250 😅, they are dodgy as 🍴, almost caught me out 15min ago riding home as I leaned a bit too liberally into a right turn, slowed down and took it easy on the immediate left switchback
I own a dual sport with the knobby tires. New to riding and I'm curious how far you can push on those kind of tires and if there are techniques specific for riding on such a motorcycle.
Can you do a video on ‘stoppies’? In addition to the braking technique you apply, could you also cover posture, weight shift, hip and foot position at the end? edit: I’m aware you recently posted a video on the recoil, I’d just like a little more detailed info on how to stoppie.
what about the kind of dual sport tyres you get on the crf300l? they're more offroad than road tyres but I wonder how safe they are to use if you want to ride canyon roads
When the tyre is worn, in bad condition or 5 years have passed since manutacturers date (its printed on the tyre). Thats true for ALL tyres, oem or not.
Mileage varies too much. On my 15 HP bike they look flatter than the head of Frankenstein's monster (tread depth is NEGATIVE 1mm or more in the center, its basically flat from edge to edge, and they were knobbies...) with just 2k to 3k miles. My new bike I've got about 2600 miles on the OEM tires and they look fine (and I was doing about 145 mph today, its got about 10x the power of my last bike and I use it). That said even my old duel sport tires (over 10 years old) I was getting beyond 50 degree lean angle (max lean angle to scraping pegs was 55 degrees, or slightly less as my back wheel was a little bent up and wobbling side to side and starts bucking the bike up and down when its that leaned over). They were pretty much fine, biggest limitation was they would slip on any sandy spots or lower traction in the wet, but any tire will do that. Its just whenever they wear out or get unsafe from cracks and stuff. If you store the bike inside the tires last longer, climate affects it, rubber compound affects it, etc. Mine were reasonably cracked on the surface, so to be safe you'd just replace them, but I ran them way beyond recommended and they were fine (though the back if it blows out is not a big deal, you just fishtail around some. Its the front that is HIGHLY dangerous so don't mess around with front tires if you're going to be running them past safe limits, back one doesn't matter much though, just throttle off slowly and gently apply front brakes if something does happen to the back).
I understand the concept of countersteer to initiate a turn but how do you leave a turn with countersteer? a few weeks ago I was testing it on a bicycle, countersteering was initiating the turn reliably but when I tried to make any input to the handlebar, the bike either turned more sharply until it lost stability or it just lost stability at once, the only way I was able leave the turn was to move my body and changing the lean angle
@@MotoControlEn correct, but i don't know if I wasnt pedaling enough because for the brief moment it was turning more into the turn before straightening it would get unstable
@@Danielagostinho21 On a bicycle you are talking about an order of magnitude (over 10x) difference in weight. I sometimes purely lean the bike over with counter steer and even at 140 mph (where it takes a LOT more force than at slow speeds) you only have to use one hand and go easy. On a bicycle at slower speeds and much less weight, you'll need to give like 30x more gentle inputs. My road bicycle is so twitchy you barely sneeze and you're about wiping out on the thing, you could steer the thing with your smallest finger. To counter steer on that it takes basically nothing. Also note YOU weigh about 5x more than your bicycle, so yes leaning your body mass has great effect. On a motorcycle, well my bike weighs about 4x my mass, so my body hanging off the sides really doesn't do all that much... Keep those differences in mind.
@@md.meshkatahmed9346 Use low gears like 1 or 2, then be steady on the throttle. Also with more speed you need to increase lean angle. Just go practice at a reasonable and safe speed in a clean parking lot (by clean I mean take a broom with you and sweep off any sand or dirt just to be safe), then just gradually increase lean angle and play around with speed very slowly changing one variable at a time. Maybe do an hour today, then another hour tomorrow, and just practice for a few days. It will really help you out as its just something that needs practice and you'll learn as you practice. Also wear some boots with ankle protection, breaking ankles is not fun...
Strange. In the car world, Michelin's OE tyres (pilot sport 4s*) for BMW was proven to be better than its standard (pilot sport 4s). Maybe its a Michelin thing, maybe its a car thing, or maybe its a BMW thing.
If I had chicken strips on my rear oem tire, I would not teach how to judhe where their limit is 😊 And who told you 30-40% dualsports are just dry daylies without extreems 😊
I've been watching your videos for a while, and I kind of think this bike is small for you. I don't mean engine size, but physically small, you seem to be cramped on it.
Hello! I just found a channel in Spanish that is using your videos. He’s just translating everything you say. However, I never heard him giving you credit for it. Which in my opinion is only fair after all the effort you put into your videos. Here’s the channel I’m talking about : youtube.com/@riderman65
That was pretty decent lean angle in your exercise within 30’ circle in the beginning of the video! Great tutorial!
What troubles me is lean angles in the wet. On public roads, I'm not concerned, as I ride with a much greater safety margin in the rain, and especially in the first rain after prolonged dry weather which can be treacherously greasy. No, what troubles me (and amazes me) is watching moto gymkhana or Japanese police trainees riding at extreme angles in the pouring rain. I'd just be too scared, as learning the limits seems to be done by trial and error and plenty of falls. However, what they do learn is how to train their instincts to save mild slips and regain composure.
Andrei, it would be interesting to hear of your experiences riding at the limit in the wet.
Had instructors that trained in Japan. Aside for skills of course the real enabler for those wet MotoGymkhana and really deep lean tight turns are the high quality tarmac they have in Japan.
Even on the Honda school where I train (very clean already compared to public roads) we were still traction limited on the tarmac based on feedback from the instructors.
I’m also inclined to say that the Japanese also use sports tires and tire warmers but Sakuta-san (King of Motogymkhana) got podium finish on touring tires (w/o warmers if I remember his blog correctly) last season on his ZRX1200R.
"learning the limits seems to be done by trial and error and plenty of falls" - that's exactly how it's done😄 I'm working on the video about rain riding, so there will be a section about traction!
@@MotoControlEn exciting! Hope you can include effect of rider weight. Need every bit of motivation to loose weight hehe.
@@enhinyerorider5914you gain about a tenth of a second for every pound of body fat you lose
My first bike was a 98 bandit S600 that I bought in 2012, the previous owner claimed she was a daily driver, but after going on a few rides, I quickly realized, we were still riding on 1998 OEM rubber. 😅 Could've ended badly as I was a new rider and of course the first thing I did was find out how fast she goes in a straight line. This video is a good segway into changing your own tires!
If I had a dollar each time somebody asked me if they need to change the 10+ year old tire with a lot of tread left - I would have about 30-40$ right now🤑
The price of good tyres are over the roof
The price of a hospital bill is more expensive.
You are hilarious. My sentiments exactly. 1:30 I could totally sense my bike’s limits thankfully without exceeding them. Switching to Corsa 4’s soon!
Thank you for all your helpful advice
All happiness to you my friend
Take care
tire pressure can do miracles if it comes to traction... you don't need 42psi rear and 36 front... i felt happy with 34 rear and 32 front...
Great video! I feel more confident about leaning into turns with my current tires now. However, I will probably upgrade to more known and trusted brand tires in the near future. Also, the name spelling was perfect!
Very neatly put! Stock is done for a budget, and of course there's always better tire to upgrade.
You are the best. Thank you very much for all of your videos. They are amazing and i'm learning a lot with them 🙌👏 Greetings from Spain
Thank you! 😃
Exact same MRF tire combo on my Suzuki Gixxer 250 😅, they are dodgy as 🍴, almost caught me out 15min ago riding home as I leaned a bit too liberally into a right turn, slowed down and took it easy on the immediate left switchback
Hot dawg! Can’t wait to learn this.
I own a dual sport with the knobby tires. New to riding and I'm curious how far you can push on those kind of tires and if there are techniques specific for riding on such a motorcycle.
Can you do a video on ‘stoppies’?
In addition to the braking technique you apply, could you also cover posture, weight shift, hip and foot position at the end?
edit: I’m aware you recently posted a video on the recoil, I’d just like a little more detailed info on how to stoppie.
All right, will try to remember about that😉
What's a good speed to do a front wheel stoppy for beginners?
what about the kind of dual sport tyres you get on the crf300l? they're more offroad than road tyres but I wonder how safe they are to use if you want to ride canyon roads
Did you buy your ktm from a dealer here in buenos aires? How was your experience?
At what point/ mileage should you change your OEM tires? I have a naked bike. Normal riding to work, some leisure riding, no wheelies, no stunting.
When the tyre is worn, in bad condition or 5 years have passed since manutacturers date (its printed on the tyre). Thats true for ALL tyres, oem or not.
Yes, this!
Mileage varies too much. On my 15 HP bike they look flatter than the head of Frankenstein's monster (tread depth is NEGATIVE 1mm or more in the center, its basically flat from edge to edge, and they were knobbies...) with just 2k to 3k miles. My new bike I've got about 2600 miles on the OEM tires and they look fine (and I was doing about 145 mph today, its got about 10x the power of my last bike and I use it).
That said even my old duel sport tires (over 10 years old) I was getting beyond 50 degree lean angle (max lean angle to scraping pegs was 55 degrees, or slightly less as my back wheel was a little bent up and wobbling side to side and starts bucking the bike up and down when its that leaned over). They were pretty much fine, biggest limitation was they would slip on any sandy spots or lower traction in the wet, but any tire will do that.
Its just whenever they wear out or get unsafe from cracks and stuff. If you store the bike inside the tires last longer, climate affects it, rubber compound affects it, etc. Mine were reasonably cracked on the surface, so to be safe you'd just replace them, but I ran them way beyond recommended and they were fine (though the back if it blows out is not a big deal, you just fishtail around some. Its the front that is HIGHLY dangerous so don't mess around with front tires if you're going to be running them past safe limits, back one doesn't matter much though, just throttle off slowly and gently apply front brakes if something does happen to the back).
I understand the concept of countersteer to initiate a turn but how do you leave a turn with countersteer? a few weeks ago I was testing it on a bicycle, countersteering was initiating the turn reliably but when I tried to make any input to the handlebar, the bike either turned more sharply until it lost stability or it just lost stability at once, the only way I was able leave the turn was to move my body and changing the lean angle
You are turning front wheel more into the turn to exit the turn, right?
@@MotoControlEn correct, but i don't know if I wasnt pedaling enough because for the brief moment it was turning more into the turn before straightening it would get unstable
@@Danielagostinho21 On a bicycle you are talking about an order of magnitude (over 10x) difference in weight. I sometimes purely lean the bike over with counter steer and even at 140 mph (where it takes a LOT more force than at slow speeds) you only have to use one hand and go easy. On a bicycle at slower speeds and much less weight, you'll need to give like 30x more gentle inputs.
My road bicycle is so twitchy you barely sneeze and you're about wiping out on the thing, you could steer the thing with your smallest finger. To counter steer on that it takes basically nothing. Also note YOU weigh about 5x more than your bicycle, so yes leaning your body mass has great effect. On a motorcycle, well my bike weighs about 4x my mass, so my body hanging off the sides really doesn't do all that much... Keep those differences in mind.
@@jakegarrett8109 that's about what I was thinking, thanks for the explanation
@@Danielagostinho21 You're very welcome, glad I could help.
What kind of slider do you have installed under you seat (with the KTM logo on it)?
It's JPL subcage (it's Argentinian company, IDK if they ship to other countries)
@@MotoControlEn Thanks a lot!
Are you using the clutch when you are leaning?
No, there is no need
@@MotoControlEn but how it’s possible?
@@md.meshkatahmed9346 Use low gears like 1 or 2, then be steady on the throttle. Also with more speed you need to increase lean angle.
Just go practice at a reasonable and safe speed in a clean parking lot (by clean I mean take a broom with you and sweep off any sand or dirt just to be safe), then just gradually increase lean angle and play around with speed very slowly changing one variable at a time. Maybe do an hour today, then another hour tomorrow, and just practice for a few days. It will really help you out as its just something that needs practice and you'll learn as you practice. Also wear some boots with ankle protection, breaking ankles is not fun...
@@jakegarrett8109 Thank you for your important information
@@md.meshkatahmed9346 Glad I could help, cheers!
bro my duke 200 2014 model i do my bike push to rpm soud then white smoke light ly come out the exaust any solution you have
Check if the oil or coolant level slowly decreases, then you'll find the answer:)
Wich tires are you getting for that ktm?
Dunlop Alpha 13
Strange. In the car world, Michelin's OE tyres (pilot sport 4s*) for BMW was proven to be better than its standard (pilot sport 4s).
Maybe its a Michelin thing, maybe its a car thing, or maybe its a BMW thing.
I dont think theres much difference for a given model between oem or not oem.
My oem tire are super corsa v3 :) not that dodgy
I read that OEM tires are the same as aftermarket ones but with a bit less tread depth so they don't last as long
Not always true, the compounds can vary. Basically depends on the contract or whatever the manufacturer wants (which is often whatever is cheaper).
If I had chicken strips on my rear oem tire, I would not teach how to judhe where their limit is 😊
And who told you 30-40% dualsports are just dry daylies without extreems 😊
👍👍
I've been watching your videos for a while, and I kind of think this bike is small for you. I don't mean engine size, but physically small, you seem to be cramped on it.
Yes, you're right!
Cheap MRF Tires = made in INDIA = crappy indian tires.
The only thing I need to know is: what will be the winning numbers for the next Powerball lottery drawing?
Hello!
I just found a channel in Spanish that is using your videos. He’s just translating everything you say. However, I never heard him giving you credit for it. Which in my opinion is only fair after all the effort you put into your videos.
Here’s the channel I’m talking about : youtube.com/@riderman65