This brother is awesome I haven’t worked on bugs for 30 years this is a awesome refresher course ! I wish I had him 30 years ago I m 55 I worked on bugs at 14 years old ! Remember bug me videos back day on vhs times have changed k ow these bugs are not cheap I sold Vw oval for$500 back day !
I have owned 12 VW Beetles and one VW Thing over the years since 1964. The local VW dealer (Snider Motors in Knoxville Tn) in the mid 1960s charged $2.50 to adjust the valves, Yes two dollars and fifty cents + tax. I still have three of these cars. The best of them being a 1959 1 owner, all original 3 owner car.
Working on my wifes 73' 181 right now in Nashville! Small world. Earliest we've got is a 63' bug. Now you lucky if you can find a GOOD VW guy that can get you in the shop in under 6 months.
my freshly built 2110 is .002 with steel pushrods. The expansion rate is apparently different. I always run a .005 to make sure it's not tight after the .006 on a stock engine or any that run .006. Better loose than tight. It's good time to pull, clean or replace your plugs and it makes rotating the engine easier while doing the valves
You always start with number one and as you turn the engine backwards you go 1234 watch your distributor and watch top dead center, never ever use no-go gauges they are junk. Just the intakes at .004and the exhaust at .006 just your timing to about 8° top 10 center also a dual 9 distributor makes your engine run much better and cleaner. Only use Bosch points. And I use cork head gaskets on the valve covers with white grease between the gasket And the cylinder head. I normally glue the gasket to the cover but you don't have too. And if you're still using your oil bath air cleaner, use dexron transmission fluid your air cleaner will filter out more dirt because when you go to change it and clean it you'll find more dirt in the bottom that's how good it works. Add a little extra it helps lubricate the valves.
Great video, my cylinder #2 intake and exhaust springs touch the rocker arms. There for I can not adjust them. Is this what you mean when people don't use harden seats?
Hi there. I have a complete video detailing what grades of oil can be used in the aircooled vw. You may want to check it out! In this engine I have been running 15w40 with the adequate zinc
Once I got to the point of adjusting my valves on a sand rail I recently bought, I have come to find that the clearance was anywhere from .003-.005....
If anything, leave the intake at 6 and run the exhaust at 8. There was actually a short time when VW recommended that. The intakes rarely burn because they run much cooler than the exhaust side. If you break down a lot of heads you’ll see pitting on the exhaust valve stems but not much of anything on the intake side
My engine is believed to be a type 3, the engine number should be on top of the case, however it’s not there! Can’t find it anywhere. I see in this video, your number is below the oil filler/breather tube. Mine is not there either. Mine is a flat engine, oil cooler lays flat, cooling fan is mounted behind the engine.
The book says from 54-59 on 36hp engines its .004 and 40 horse as .008 intake and .012 exhaust if with the long stud heads, but later VW service bulletins had technicians run .006 on all.
What is the symptom of a burned valves? Loss of compression in the cylinder? I’ve lost compression in cylinder 3 and I’ve been told it’s likely to be burned valves. Thanks.
Check the adjustment on that cylinder and do a compression test. Wide open throttle cold. Then let it run and test it again hot. Start there. Let me know what the numbers are.
You call it a complete guide, but you already have the valve covers removed. My bug is sitting in the garage with the engine mounted and all components installed, ready to turn the key and go. This is not a complete nor exhaustive guide...
Google search How to keep your Volkswagen alive. A manual step by step for the complete Idiot 😂 Might suit you, as long as you can read a manual im assuming. In all honesty, you can’t get a more straight forward video than this one.
This brother is awesome I haven’t worked on bugs for 30 years this is a awesome refresher course ! I wish I had him 30 years ago I m 55 I worked on bugs at 14 years old ! Remember bug me videos back day on vhs times have changed k ow these bugs are not cheap I sold Vw oval for$500 back day !
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching! Things sure have changed since the old days. This isn’t a cheap hobby anymore!!
I have owned 12 VW Beetles and one VW Thing over the years since 1964. The local VW dealer (Snider Motors in Knoxville Tn) in the mid 1960s charged $2.50 to adjust the valves, Yes two dollars and fifty cents + tax. I still have three of these cars. The best of them being a 1959 1 owner, all original 3 owner car.
Good story. Thanks for sharing!
Working on my wifes 73' 181 right now in Nashville! Small world. Earliest we've got is a 63' bug. Now you lucky if you can find a GOOD VW guy that can get you in the shop in under 6 months.
I think the video was very clear and concise. I appreciate you making it very much.
Thank you so much for the encouragement! Glad it was a help!
Bought my first vw 5 months ago and found some of my grandpas manuals. He had the same ones as you… awesome
Have fun! It’s a learning process!
my freshly built 2110 is .002 with steel pushrods. The expansion rate is apparently different. I always run a .005 to make sure it's not tight after the .006 on a stock engine or any that run .006. Better loose than tight. It's good time to pull, clean or replace your plugs and it makes rotating the engine easier while doing the valves
Excellent video, thank you!
You always start with number one and as you turn the engine backwards you go 1234 watch your distributor and watch top dead center, never ever use no-go gauges they are junk. Just the intakes at .004and the exhaust at .006 just your timing to about 8° top 10 center also a dual 9 distributor makes your engine run much better and cleaner. Only use Bosch points. And I use cork head gaskets on the valve covers with white grease between the gasket And the cylinder head. I normally glue the gasket to the cover but you don't have too. And if you're still using your oil bath air cleaner, use dexron transmission fluid your air cleaner will filter out more dirt because when you go to change it and clean it you'll find more dirt in the bottom that's how good it works. Add a little extra it helps lubricate the valves.
Great explanation of the process, Thanks!
Thank you for watching! Glad it was helpful!
To the point and short!! Thank you!!
Very good info and demonstration
Glad it was helpful!
Great video brother, thank you!
Thanks for the encouragement!
Great video, my cylinder #2 intake and exhaust springs touch the rocker arms. There for I can not adjust them. Is this what you mean when people don't use harden seats?
Super helpful bro ty
Thanks for watching!
What grade of oil are you using?
Hi there. I have a complete video detailing what grades of oil can be used in the aircooled vw. You may want to check it out! In this engine I have been running 15w40 with the adequate zinc
What kind of lobe separation does this engine have?
Once I got to the point of adjusting my valves on a sand rail I recently bought, I have come to find that the clearance was anywhere from .003-.005....
Too tight for sure
I have been adjusting my bus to 8 instead of 6 for the past 50 years. Found that doesn't burn the valves as much
If anything, leave the intake at 6 and run the exhaust at 8. There was actually a short time when VW recommended that. The intakes rarely burn because they run much cooler than the exhaust side. If you break down a lot of heads you’ll see pitting on the exhaust valve stems but not much of anything on the intake side
My engine is believed to be a type 3, the engine number should be on top of the case, however it’s not there! Can’t find it anywhere. I see in this video, your number is below the oil filler/breather tube. Mine is not there either. Mine is a flat engine, oil cooler lays flat, cooling fan is mounted behind the engine.
What about pre-66?
The book says from 54-59 on 36hp engines its .004 and 40 horse as .008 intake and .012 exhaust if with the long stud heads, but later VW service bulletins had technicians run .006 on all.
What if I have a 1.7 411
.006 on the intake and .008 on the exhaust if it has the sodium exhaust valves. That’s according to the Official Volkswagen Bentley Manual
The process is essentially the same
👍 Great info.
Thank you very much!
THX!
Thank you for watching!
very helpful
Glad it helped! Thank you for watching!
What is the symptom of a burned valves? Loss of compression in the cylinder?
I’ve lost compression in cylinder 3 and I’ve been told it’s likely to be burned valves.
Thanks.
Check the adjustment on that cylinder and do a compression test. Wide open throttle cold. Then let it run and test it again hot. Start there. Let me know what the numbers are.
@@MaineMachinist will do, thanks!
🤘🏼
i hate when people tell there life story i was not looking =for thaty just vaulves i will find another video
Would it not have been faster to search the next video rather than leave your comment? :-)
You call it a complete guide, but you already have the valve covers removed.
My bug is sitting in the garage with the engine mounted and all components installed, ready to turn the key and go.
This is not a complete nor exhaustive guide...
Do I need to show how to turn the engine off also? Or how to locate the engine?
Come on now
Very helpful passive aggressive reply.
Good job.
@@KodakYarr I’m assuming you did locate it, then. Correct?
Google search How to keep your Volkswagen alive. A manual step by step for the complete Idiot 😂 Might suit you, as long as you can read a manual im assuming. In all honesty, you can’t get a more straight forward video than this one.
He said it was a complete guide.. not an idiots guide!! 😅😂 bro chill and enjoy the knowledge 👍🏼
Too long
This is an exhaustive guide. Not intended to be a short.