15:24 The cracks in the head are caused by running lean. Almost all fuel injected engines didn't crack even on the type 4 engine. The type 4 engine had the sharp dog leg to the exhaust that made for thin alloy in the head around the exhaust seat. It was from the factory jets after extractor exhaust was fitted making a lean condition. Tell us the head numbers. The 044 heads were the go back in the day. 90.5 bore was the best for having a large enough sealing surface to the head. You got the best combo. I was always looking to 74 or 78 stroke with the 90.5 bore. Those deflector plates were always sad on a larger bore. I learn't something about using the type 3 units. I don't have a VW now but I am keen to get one again. Top video mate.
Came across one engine the deflector plates had been installed on top of the cylinders. Can't recall if it was 36 or 40 but it survived without any apparent detrimental effects. Speaking of survival, back in the eighties recall a VW mechanic telling me he knew of persons with 36hp motors that had done over 150000 and one he reckoned 200000 miles, unopened. Great little motors if driven within their design considerations.
57:59 You have to get it in 3 shims. No more. I had an old motor that only survived because of clutch pressure. Without that the crank would have hit the case webs. I drove that beetle for years. Still got the motor.
Thanks Mike , very Complete informative install info. People have weird ideas about Blueprinting & balancing. You couldnt make it any planner or important! Thanks & cheers from B.C. Canada.
those parts are pretty tight. you wont be putting that many rpms in there If you go much over 6500 you will pull the pins out of the pistons. To do that it is $$$$$$$....for over7k rpm. so no sense in blueprinting and balancing. they are pretty close. lightweight pistons. and rods.
34:31 From memory there is an 8 degree offset due to the direction of rotation. You put a conrod wrong or a piston backward you will break a piston skirt right away.
24:25 we used to place the bearings and scribe them before we mounted them on the crank for dowel pin alignment. Don't miss a step. Front and back bearings from memory as the are not half shell.
Dang the audio and video is so good I was able to hear and see where that washer fell @ around 51:15. My eyes and ears tracked it over by the air hose, or red hose you have their on the floor. (if you look towards the lower left of the video screen.) Furthermore, I really want to get into cars and engines now. Even if its just lawn mower engines too, just to start with and learn.
1:14:14 The standard engine just uses 2.5 L of oil the deep sump is a great upgrade. Even water cooled cars don't use so little oil. I used to cane my Super Bug. She took it.
36:23 We used to use engine oil if we could get it done in a week. Gearbox oil or CV grease if it was going to take longer. Mostly the customer extended the time choosing options.
1:04.03 Moly. The ring gaps should be in this engine. Top ring to the exhaust second ring behind the inlet oil ring gap should be to the top. I might be wrong so tell me these engines are not the same as most.
Never got to build one, but I remember day dreaming about it as I saw the big bore kit's in JC Witney catalogs when I was younger. They were dirt cheap
Counter weighted crank is the best mod. After 5000 revs the old crank would flex and then spread the case. the bearings would ride up on each other. Even the basic engine put in a counterweighted crank.
The coefficient of thermal conductivity for magnesium is less than aluminium i.e 156W/mdegk verses 247W/mdegk, it is therefore 60% worse so that the magnesium will retain heat more than the aluminium. I-beam rods are more suited to high revs simply because they are lighter and give lower reciprocating mass. The H-beam rods work well as you say on turbo engines of moderate rev capability but high loads. The H-beam rod is heavier. Aftermarket cases can have the crank bearings bore slightly of line with the case half so that the barrels will not sit square with the crank causing thrust on the wrong side of the piston and extra heat. The block should be spot decked to correct that instead of line boring. Matching pistons/rods and balancing the whole assembly? Hoover mods? The Salzburg rally bugs ran zero deck height for maximum compression but that was risky. Deck heights of between 40-60 thou (1-1.5mm) are the accepted norm With a new build it is recommended to use the Scat Lube a Lobe lifters or Engles equivalent that lubricates the cam lobes to help with cams/lifters hollowing out. I break in with Valvoline VR1 and thereafter use Castrol Edge 10W60 that allows the oil to circulate quicker initially and has a higher heat tolerance.as well as being more stable than a mineral oil.
Mike, you mentioned that you removed the “Oil Relief piston and spring” because it wasn’t needed with the full flow system. I have never heard of this before. I’m a little confused now as I’ve got a full flow system in my buggy and retained the oil relief piston and spring. What’s the up/down side of this?
? He showed putting in new oil relief springs and pistons. Think maybe you misunderstood. Hopefully Mike can clarify. All I can tell you is that like you, I run the relief spring and piston along with the full flow filter. EDIT: I saw the part where he took the spring out again, never heard of that before!
great info. a friend just built a new 1915 vw motor and it won't start it has compression coming out of the carburetor when you turn it over it's getting fire and has 120 lbs. compression on all cylinders. what's wrong?
102:46 The distributor drive is also the first thing to stick if an engine is stuck out in the weather. You think the engine is ceased but it is just the dizzy drive.
The cylinder have 4 holes and center bore but modified that someone build the engine cylinder. The extra hole up to 6 or 4 holes goes thru from top of cylinder to the bottom of cylinder. That the holes are called oil cooling jacket for only oil flow thru The 4 holes for bolts and 6 holes for oil and a center bore. It out weight the cooling efficiency of air cooling compare to hybrid oil and air cooling cylinder. Out weight means much improvement of the design that shall be the concept newly made. But I don't have any Volkswagen coupe.
Nobody does really less than 1% around here. It does not get cold enough in socal to benefit from them. Only time I would use them is very cold climate or very cold winter driving. I saw several cars years ago with stuck flaps and a burned up engine. Most of the people are summer driving over 40 degrees. at that point it really is not necessary IMO.
Is there a compression ratio of the Volkswagen flat-four that it installed 90.5mm bore drop forged piston? Drop forged piston is light weight as same weight of stock 88mm Bore piston. I like compression ratio at least 9:1 for all Volkswagen cars. Any recommendation for why it should be less compression ratio? The counterweight of the crankshaft is stock but when you get the Scat Crankshaft Chromoly then recommended for us to know about how much does it weight. The weight of stock Volkswagen 69mm stroke crankshaft is what? I called MT MFG about their crankshaft's weight. They will answer back to me soon. Thank you.
I think we are running this one at 8.5 which is pretty safe. 9 to 1 can ping sometimes when climbing hills. With premium fuel it is doable but you need to watch your car or bus when climbing or you can burn it up when pinging. My 1904 in the other bus is 9 to 1 this one is around 8.5 and this one I can stand on the floor when climbing and it never pings with premium.
I believe the weight of the crankshaft is offset with the lightened flywheel. Really should run a lightened with a counterweight. they work together. The pistons I use are not forged AA Pistons, but they are lightened so yes they weigh the same or less than stock. I think the only drop forged are JE or Wiseco. Not necessary for under 7k rpm. The Mahle are not drop forged either they are pressure casted forged which is not the same.
I doubt they fail. I got 40 h.p. rods resizied and machinist complained how tough they are. The 1600 rods are better than any sbc factory rods would be my guess.
thermostats //working ,is the way for all engines to have a measurement of heat , and cold air,- to keep all engine parts working in all start-up and run//you need the the B.T U OF heat and then to cool , working ,
Not new to car culture but looking to get my feet wet with a vw build. First ? I got is why are engines so dam expensive, a 2300cc motor with 180 hp for 6k 😆
yea its ridiculous. need to do your own. The reason they charge so much is because the parts are so inferior that every about 10 engines they eat one. parts are more than labor. I have no idea why these cases are over 1000....makes no sense.
True vw stuff has become expensive, however all car stuff has become ridiculously expensive . Just getting back into the vw scene myself . After the last 25 years of playing with fords and Chevys vw is cheap by comparison. I agree these “crate” vw engines are insanely high. Build your own . It can be done and this man’s videos are excellent! Very detailed and your work is appreciated!
Consider deep cryo treating and WPC treating the components. As a topic, stroker NA engines versus a boosted ( turbo or supercharged ) 1600 cc for power and reliability. Also, cylinder head power test ( single port, stage 1 to max effort; dual port, same stages )
shims are to calculate deck height. you need some space in there for the rod stretch. Because there is no head gasket like normal engine. min deck is like .45. .50 to .60 is normal.
@@volkswatson Well it wouldn't hurt. but buggies get a lot of air and for the most part they dont run hot. That is why a lot of guys run 10 to 1 on a buggy. it is possible to do and run premium pump fuel. you could go either way on that. I ran several buggies at the dunes with stock deflectors and they worked just fine. I built an engine for my buddy and he ran it 3 seasons like that. but I think it was around 8 or 9 to 1. I dont remember exactly. Dual carbs 40s.
Beautiful job nice and clean.. then, after you punched holes in the tin, then you put that old dirty tin dropping dirt in the holes where the push rods go. Just saying, as per your own rule, keeping things clean .
A chrome-moly flywheel would be ridiculous. Billet steel, maybe. Those rods are just forged steel with full floating pins, just like stock VW. You don't run valve spring pressure any higher than needed so 1. your cheesy pushrods don't collapse, and 2. to keep the valves from bouncing off the seats on closing. You wouldn't want to waste your money on a magnesium case that has already been line-bored and had half the studs pulled out already. We built counterbalanced 2180's 35 years ago using mag cases, forged rods, and Mahle forged pistons that lasted as long as you pulled the heads off once a year to re-torque the mains. Never had any oiling problems using a stock pump and the aluminum VW cooler.
1:15:18 The compression ratio is over rated. My old beetle was about 7.5 to 1. My Royal Enfield is 6.5 to 1 it can run on swamp water. It still goes. 3 year old fuel it started but wouldn't rev. Are we saving the Planet just to walk around town?
These forged Chromoly connecting rods from Flat four engine is 5.5 inch between center radius of journal hole of the rod to the center of smaller hole. The length of the original connecting rod is 5.325 inch long between two radius centers of two holes. The Piston B is max to either 94mm bore or 92mm bore and piston pin is closer to the piston's top than the Piston AA. From the store So. Cal Import Auto Parts.
If I recall correctly the original rods are 5.4 inches. they make the AA chromoly ones in several sizes. short rods at 5.375 which I used on the 74 stroker. I think on this one I used 5.5 or longer ones IDK exactly we had to talk to the machine shop guys to get the exact ones to use with the b pistons I used a pistons on the 74 stroker.
Try these 2 things to make your vw engine actually last Understanding that 5 quarts of oil will never allow the engine to reach operating temperature, first install a 5 quart oil sump with the long pickup tube. Then add ONLY 3.5 quarts of oil. Carry an ADDITIONAL quart for hot days and steep hills. Next install an oil temperature gauge. Under typical conditions, this setup alone in my 1968 bus , I saw 180 degrees all the time, every day even at 70mph and 90 degree days. Next, install a cylinder head temperature gauge and put it obviously on number 3 . That's the one nearest the driver..the one that always shallows the valve. These are commonly used in aircraft, but NOT hard or terribly expensive. Have it set to trigger electric fans directed at the heads at around 200 degrees. Very inexpensive and great not only for longevity but fuel economy and performance
@@matthewvarnam4302 250 NA would run about 10 grand. Turbo 300 to probably more like 20....plus another 10 or more in the trans. Really a 250 is really fast. CB performance does those. Check their website. I think they do a dual carb blow through that is about 300hp. Runs on e85 which is better for power. Oh wait it is Injected dual throttle body .
Because oil cooler leaks are not uncommon, I always put the oil cooler (doghouse) on before the pistons so I can use a torque wrench on the oil cooler nuts.
How can i get rid of gas smell I tried putting new seal with new hose but I still get strong smell specially after filling up and strong smell I think from the carb
Hey mike. Love your channel. When are you going to do an ev conversion? I am doing a 74 super beetle on my youtube channel bills cool projects. Go down to San Diego at EVWest spend a day. Thanks again for the videos.
yea those are cool. just be aware that they say way more range than what you will actually get. The rated range is much less than actual range. They rate the range at 45mph which would be dangerous on the freeway. The Bus we took up north was rated at 250 miles. On flat ground at 60mph it never got better than 120 usable range. On hills it really gets lower. Great for around town but impossible to do road trips.
@@Mikefngarage thanks mike. Yep agree. More charging stations help that. Conversions with ccs charging also. But how much range does our gas Vw’s have when we break down. We have both been there. Plus performance and reliability. Forget the environment thing. Take care.
@@bparkinson1234 the difference is that your range on the EV when you run out it is 8 to 12 hours of charge time. Unless you go with a Level 3 controller $$$$$. then you also degrade the battery from too much use by using level 3. an hour on the charger can get you like 5 miles. at level 2. Just be aware you will not be doing any long trips. In town they are great. But you do give up long trip privileges.
IT'S EASIER TO PUT the pistons in ther jugs first. put the wrist pin clip in the piston on the side that faces the other jug. push the piston down till the wrist pin hole is exposed out the bottom of the jug. assemble all 4 jugs this way. then just silicon the jug shoulder, slide the jug down the studs, line up the rod and wrist pin till it slips thru. install the clip and seat the jug. do the other jug and finish assembling that side. your way ;looked to mer like it would lent itself to broken rings. IMHO
If that fan cooling shroud has a cooling tin extension for an oil cooler,,i.e. outside the air flow to # 3 cylinder, that is not a Type 1 engine, but a type 2. One of the Type 1 engine's main "gremlins" was the blockage of cooling air flow to the number 3 cylinder, which required constant lash adjustment to avoid burned valves. in addition to almost always being the first push rod tube seals to fail. On Type 1 engines the cooler was inside the fan cooling tine ( no "doghouse")
The engine was started first time being built in history. It is on Rocket steam engine. Then it became condense and steam engine of multi-pistons type. The car with rear compartment needs the engine but the wholly is bigger than the engine named the motor. Engine is what type of engines: The carburetor aspirator type or fuel-injection Direct type or Otto radial turbo engine but it does not have any battery. Some motor with the battery can be 6-volt or 12 v. or 36 volts system. The engine is running is like there is no air filter and no oil filter and not even electric starter that crank the motor up. Even the engine have no radiator. Motor always wants to be cooled off. But hotter engine tends to be much hotter and wear out FelPro gasket and add in NOS nitrous to a racing motor size 560 CID from crate.
It’s been four decades since I last built a VW engine. I had a lot of fun with VWs in the ‘70’s. It’s good that they were so fun and easy to work on - because their long term reliability sucked. Amazing that so much remains the same. I used Rimco to add shuffle pins and 8 dowel crank/flywheel etc.
Generator is made in China for Volkswagen Super fast 75HP and 75 amp Beetle. The electric motor is converted into a commutator type generator. These generator is brushless generator that provide 1,000 watts and the Bosch did not have brushless system for generator. But for now more money is for better performance of the generator to a real good reason it is durability or even 1,200 watts generator.
I had a 2007cc, engle 110 cam and twin 36 dellortos in my Splitty and the fuel economy was a massive improvement over the stock 1600cc. Its a perfect combination, more than double the power and better gas mileage and you don't even notice hills any more...I miss that old bus
Thanks a ton fellas for the vid, so much great information. I'm trying to document this list so I can present it to my engine builder. Can I please share the list here with you and see what I'm missing?
OLD ENGINES ARE STRESS RELIEVED NEW ENGINES WILL WARP AND PULL AND STRESS RELIEVE IT SELF THREW THERMAL CYCLING .WANTS THE ENGINE RUNS NOTHING STAYS PERFECT P.S SO SHOULD RETORQUE HEADS AND ADJUST VALVES AFTER BREAKIN PERIOD. AND THAN YOU WILL HAVE A VERY RELIABLE RUNNING ENGINE
that one is about as reliable as it can get and true they still are not built to last forever. My buddy gets about 150k miles or more out of one of these style engines which is not bad.
I've had four beetles in the past, if you want to know how to fix a beetle engine you need a book called How To Keep Your Beetle Alive, Step by Step Procedures for the Complete Idiot, it's brilliant, you can't go wrong.
FYI….brake cleaner and human skin are a bad mix. Your gonna need to wear gloves unless you want skin that looks like an elephant in 20 years. You’re welcome!
When I saw you stick sealant between the casings, I stopped watching. VW engines are assembled without sealant between the casings for a very important reason..
What "we" do is lol. You don't build motors that's obvious. The motor package you have choose to go with is a disaster. Good luck enjoying the very $$$ low performance your going too get. What a waste of time and money!
Thanks mike. Brings back memories of working for les martin in 79.
Cool!
You are insitefull as well as proficient. Engine building is not for the feint at heart. Great videos.
Hello Mike & Chris excellent video! Not many videos can keep me interested for 2 hours! Love your videos Mike! Keep them coming brother! 🤙🤙🤙
15:24 The cracks in the head are caused by running lean. Almost all fuel injected engines didn't crack even on the type 4 engine. The type 4 engine had the sharp dog leg to the exhaust that made for thin alloy in the head around the exhaust seat. It was from the factory jets after extractor exhaust was fitted making a lean condition. Tell us the head numbers. The 044 heads were the go back in the day. 90.5 bore was the best for having a large enough sealing surface to the head. You got the best combo. I was always looking to 74 or 78 stroke with the 90.5 bore. Those deflector plates were always sad on a larger bore. I learn't something about using the type 3 units. I don't have a VW now but I am keen to get one again. Top video mate.
Came across one engine the deflector plates had been installed on top of the cylinders. Can't recall if it was 36 or 40 but it survived without any apparent detrimental effects.
Speaking of survival, back in the eighties recall a VW mechanic telling me he knew of persons with 36hp motors that had done over 150000 and one he reckoned 200000 miles, unopened. Great little motors if driven within their design considerations.
57:59 You have to get it in 3 shims. No more. I had an old motor that only survived because of clutch pressure. Without that the crank would have hit the case webs. I drove that beetle for years. Still got the motor.
Thanks Mike , very Complete informative install info. People have weird ideas about Blueprinting & balancing. You couldnt make it any planner or important! Thanks & cheers from B.C. Canada.
those parts are pretty tight. you wont be putting that many rpms in there If you go much over 6500 you will pull the pins out of the pistons. To do that it is $$$$$$$....for over7k rpm. so no sense in blueprinting and balancing. they are pretty close. lightweight pistons. and rods.
Another GREAT Vid Mike ! Really appreciate all your tips n tricks, especially your insight. 👍👍👍
Thanks 👍
58:15 317 Ft lbs from memory. I snapped one. Big angle iron and a pipe on a breaker bar. Torque wrench settings are vital.
34:31 From memory there is an 8 degree offset due to the direction of rotation. You put a conrod wrong or a piston backward you will break a piston skirt right away.
24:25 we used to place the bearings and scribe them before we mounted them on the crank for dowel pin alignment. Don't miss a step. Front and back bearings from memory as the are not half shell.
nice hearing from you Mike !
Dang the audio and video is so good I was able to hear and see where that washer fell @ around 51:15. My eyes and ears tracked it over by the air hose, or red hose you have their on the floor. (if you look towards the lower left of the video screen.)
Furthermore, I really want to get into cars and engines now. Even if its just lawn mower engines too, just to start with and learn.
Racing go-karts would be a great place to start especially if you have kids.
1:14:14 The standard engine just uses 2.5 L of oil the deep sump is a great upgrade. Even water cooled cars don't use so little oil. I used to cane my Super Bug. She took it.
36:23 We used to use engine oil if we could get it done in a week. Gearbox oil or CV grease if it was going to take longer. Mostly the customer extended the time choosing options.
Thanks for clarifying A and B pistons as I never understood what that means.
1:08 .52 You are talking about the semi hemi heads. That helps fuel squash and gas flow. Might be more compression than this build.
Thanks for the knowledge. keep the videos coming..
1:04.03 Moly. The ring gaps should be in this engine. Top ring to the exhaust second ring behind the inlet oil ring gap should be to the top. I might be wrong so tell me these engines are not the same as most.
Never got to build one, but I remember day dreaming about it as I saw the big bore kit's in JC Witney catalogs when I was younger. They were dirt cheap
J.C. whitney loved my business. I built 5 bugs from them. Lots of high end parts
A set of new barrels and pistons with rings and wrist pins, $25....cir:1968.
Good work 👍
Greeeeeat job ..
mike 36 horse power wolfsburg west kit ..
can u build one for my 60 ill supply parts ..
Have you ever figured out how to stop the rear main seal oil leak .. Kp up the awesome videos !!!!
Great stuff Mike , Thank You .
Cool tin never used that .was always told by Clyde and John not too use it
Counter weighted crank is the best mod. After 5000 revs the old crank would flex and then spread the case. the bearings would ride up on each other. Even the basic engine put in a counterweighted crank.
How do you put the generator on if the linkage goes in front of the shroud at the same area???
You play with type 1 VW you will love the Royal Enfield motorcycle. The same built the same for years reliable and easy to fix. The same construction.
great video. where did you get your dial indicator mount from or brand?
The coefficient of thermal conductivity for magnesium is less than aluminium i.e 156W/mdegk verses 247W/mdegk, it is therefore 60% worse so that the magnesium will retain heat more than the aluminium.
I-beam rods are more suited to high revs simply because they are lighter and give lower reciprocating mass. The H-beam rods work well as you say on turbo engines of moderate rev capability but high loads. The H-beam rod is heavier.
Aftermarket cases can have the crank bearings bore slightly of line with the case half so that the barrels will not sit square with the crank causing thrust on the wrong side of the piston and extra heat. The block should be spot decked to correct that instead of line boring.
Matching pistons/rods and balancing the whole assembly?
Hoover mods?
The Salzburg rally bugs ran zero deck height for maximum compression but that was risky. Deck heights of between 40-60 thou (1-1.5mm) are the accepted norm
With a new build it is recommended to use the Scat Lube a Lobe lifters or Engles equivalent that lubricates the cam lobes to help with cams/lifters hollowing out. I break in with Valvoline VR1 and thereafter use Castrol Edge 10W60 that allows the oil to circulate quicker initially and has a higher heat tolerance.as well as being more stable than a mineral oil.
I don't know if it's right or wrong, I use aviation cement for anything that metal to metal with no gaskets.
Never leaks
Very interesting great information
Mike, you mentioned that you removed the “Oil Relief piston and spring” because it wasn’t needed with the full flow system. I have never heard of this before. I’m a little confused now as I’ve got a full flow system in my buggy and retained the oil relief piston and spring. What’s the up/down side of this?
? He showed putting in new oil relief springs and pistons. Think maybe you misunderstood. Hopefully Mike can clarify. All I can tell you is that like you, I run the relief spring and piston along with the full flow filter. EDIT: I saw the part where he took the spring out again, never heard of that before!
great info. a friend just built a new 1915 vw motor and it won't start it has compression coming out of the carburetor when you turn it over it's getting fire and has 120 lbs. compression on all cylinders. what's wrong?
1:10:22 Breaking a piston skirt. 8 deg Don't get it wrong. This is a highly efficient engine.
Tanks for deciding to make a long vid…
If you are going stock rom those aa are great, if your doing anything in the 6500 range dont, mine blew up on my 1955cc on startup, just pay the extra
Mike can you use original crank on the aliminum case ?
Hi, do you know the ring size on the 90.5 piston, is it 1,5x2x4 or 2x2x4?
Just watched the original yesterday 🙂
cool this has all the parts and the complete all in 1 so everyone can see it all without searching for the others.
Is a e85 option possible Mike …… ?
mikewill a pair of 40mm webbers will work good with this build?
102:46 The distributor drive is also the first thing to stick if an engine is stuck out in the weather. You think the engine is ceased but it is just the dizzy drive.
The cylinder have 4 holes and center bore but modified that someone build the engine cylinder. The extra hole up to 6 or 4 holes goes thru from top of cylinder to the bottom of cylinder. That the holes are called oil cooling jacket for only oil flow thru The 4 holes for bolts and 6 holes for oil and a center bore. It out weight the cooling efficiency of air cooling compare to hybrid oil and air cooling cylinder. Out weight means much improvement of the design that shall be the concept newly made. But I don't have any Volkswagen coupe.
Did you folks put in the thermostat and flaps? I'd like to know your opinions on these.
Nobody does really less than 1% around here. It does not get cold enough in socal to benefit from them. Only time I would use them is very cold climate or very cold winter driving. I saw several cars years ago with stuck flaps and a burned up engine. Most of the people are summer driving over 40 degrees. at that point it really is not necessary IMO.
Is there a compression ratio of the Volkswagen flat-four that it installed 90.5mm bore drop forged piston? Drop forged piston is light weight as same weight of stock 88mm Bore piston. I like compression ratio at least 9:1 for all Volkswagen cars. Any recommendation for why it should be less compression ratio?
The counterweight of the crankshaft is stock but when you get the Scat Crankshaft Chromoly then recommended for us to know about how much does it weight. The weight of stock Volkswagen 69mm stroke crankshaft is what? I called MT MFG about their crankshaft's weight. They will answer back to me soon. Thank you.
I think we are running this one at 8.5 which is pretty safe. 9 to 1 can ping sometimes when climbing hills. With premium fuel it is doable but you need to watch your car or bus when climbing or you can burn it up when pinging. My 1904 in the other bus is 9 to 1 this one is around 8.5 and this one I can stand on the floor when climbing and it never pings with premium.
I believe the weight of the crankshaft is offset with the lightened flywheel. Really should run a lightened with a counterweight. they work together. The pistons I use are not forged AA Pistons, but they are lightened so yes they weigh the same or less than stock. I think the only drop forged are JE or Wiseco. Not necessary for under 7k rpm. The Mahle are not drop forged either they are pressure casted forged which is not the same.
Instead of paint on bearing would white grease work be easier to clean block later and bearings
Morning ..is it silicone grease your using in the flywheel seal or a curing gasket type silicone...
Thanks Paul..u.k
I usually put silicone on the outside of the seal to keep it from coming out. Had a few over the years slide out and leak.
The stock rods with arp rod bolts are good German steel. I dont know do they fail?
I dont think they would clear. the Chromoly ones are clearanced. and I think lighter. which gives them more RPM and less reciprocating weight.
I doubt they fail. I got 40 h.p. rods resizied and machinist complained how tough they are. The 1600 rods are better than any sbc factory rods would be my guess.
thermostats //working ,is the way for all engines to have a measurement of heat , and cold air,- to keep all engine parts working in all start-up and run//you need the the B.T U OF heat and then to cool , working ,
WHATS THE CYLINDER TO BLOCK SHIM FOR??
👍 Nice video.
Thanks 👍
Not new to car culture but looking to get my feet wet with a vw build. First ? I got is why are engines so dam expensive, a 2300cc motor with 180 hp for 6k 😆
yea its ridiculous. need to do your own. The reason they charge so much is because the parts are so inferior that every about 10 engines they eat one. parts are more than labor. I have no idea why these cases are over 1000....makes no sense.
True vw stuff has become expensive, however all car stuff has become ridiculously expensive . Just getting back into the vw scene myself . After the last 25 years of playing with fords and Chevys vw is cheap by comparison. I agree these “crate” vw engines are insanely high. Build your own . It can be done and this man’s videos are excellent! Very detailed and your work is appreciated!
Consider deep cryo treating and WPC treating the components.
As a topic, stroker NA engines versus a boosted ( turbo or supercharged ) 1600 cc for power and reliability.
Also, cylinder head power test ( single port, stage 1 to max effort; dual port, same stages )
Are the cylinder rims necessary for buggy engines? In wouldn’t think so but what’s your take?
shims are to calculate deck height. you need some space in there for the rod stretch. Because there is no head gasket like normal engine. min deck is like .45. .50 to .60 is normal.
@@Mikefngarage sorry autocorrect got me. I meant cylinder tins.
@@volkswatson Well it wouldn't hurt. but buggies get a lot of air and for the most part they dont run hot. That is why a lot of guys run 10 to 1 on a buggy. it is possible to do and run premium pump fuel. you could go either way on that. I ran several buggies at the dunes with stock deflectors and they worked just fine. I built an engine for my buddy and he ran it 3 seasons like that. but I think it was around 8 or 9 to 1. I dont remember exactly. Dual carbs 40s.
Hi Mike, love your vw stuff, have followed the oval since you started, do you plan to keep it or sell?
at this point I plan on keeping the oval. But who knows.
So 60 thousandth in the hole or out of the hole?
Beautiful job nice and clean.. then, after you punched holes in the tin, then you put that old dirty tin dropping dirt in the holes where the push rods go. Just saying, as per your own rule, keeping things clean .
A chrome-moly flywheel would be ridiculous. Billet steel, maybe. Those rods are just forged steel with full floating pins, just like stock VW. You don't run valve spring pressure any higher than needed so 1. your cheesy pushrods don't collapse, and 2. to keep the valves from bouncing off the seats on closing. You wouldn't want to waste your money on a magnesium case that has already been line-bored and had half the studs pulled out already. We built counterbalanced 2180's 35 years ago using mag cases, forged rods, and Mahle forged pistons that lasted as long as you pulled the heads off once a year to re-torque the mains. Never had any oiling problems using a stock pump and the aluminum VW cooler.
Can I put a 2007cc into my '74 super beetle baja ?
1:15:18 The compression ratio is over rated. My old beetle was about 7.5 to 1. My Royal Enfield is 6.5 to 1 it can run on swamp water. It still goes. 3 year old fuel it started but wouldn't rev. Are we saving the Planet just to walk around town?
These forged Chromoly connecting rods from Flat four engine is 5.5 inch between center radius of journal hole of the rod to the center of smaller hole. The length of the original connecting rod is 5.325 inch long between two radius centers of two holes. The Piston B is max to either 94mm bore or 92mm bore and piston pin is closer to the piston's top than the Piston AA. From the store So. Cal Import Auto Parts.
If I recall correctly the original rods are 5.4 inches. they make the AA chromoly ones in several sizes. short rods at 5.375 which I used on the 74 stroker. I think on this one I used 5.5 or longer ones IDK exactly we had to talk to the machine shop guys to get the exact ones to use with the b pistons I used a pistons on the 74 stroker.
Everybody should watch this video before they order parts !!!!!!!!!!!!!!11
Parts have gotten so expensive to do this now, it really makes me consider a Subie conversion.
Try these 2 things to make your vw engine actually last
Understanding that 5 quarts of oil will never allow the engine to reach operating temperature, first install a 5 quart oil sump with the long pickup tube. Then add ONLY 3.5 quarts of oil. Carry an ADDITIONAL quart for hot days and steep hills. Next install an oil temperature gauge. Under typical conditions, this setup alone in my 1968 bus , I saw 180 degrees all the time, every day even at 70mph and 90 degree days.
Next, install a cylinder head temperature gauge and put it obviously on number 3 . That's the one nearest the driver..the one that always shallows the valve. These are commonly used in aircraft, but NOT hard or terribly expensive. Have it set to trigger electric fans directed at the heads at around 200 degrees.
Very inexpensive and great not only for longevity but fuel economy and performance
None of this is new. I did that on 4 of my bugs over 20 years ago.👍🏼👍🏼🤜🏼🤛🏼
@@d1specdrifter Who cares if it's new or not. It's helpful and nice insight. You're comment helps no one
I'm looking at hot roding a VW bug around 300/400 HP on 92 fuel octane to E85.
Is this possible?
Thanks
Turbo for that. hard to get past 250 NA. $$$$$
@@Mikefngarage
About how much would a 300/400 HP engine cost
@@matthewvarnam4302 250 NA would run about 10 grand. Turbo 300 to probably more like 20....plus another 10 or more in the trans. Really a 250 is really fast. CB performance does those. Check their website. I think they do a dual carb blow through that is about 300hp. Runs on e85 which is better for power. Oh wait it is Injected dual throttle body .
Because oil cooler leaks are not uncommon, I always put the oil cooler (doghouse) on before the pistons so I can use a torque wrench on the oil cooler nuts.
What rod length did you use?
1:07.09 A postage stamp 40 thou. 60 is playing safe.
How can i get rid of gas smell I tried putting new seal with new hose but I still get strong smell specially after filling up and strong smell I think from the carb
Hey mike. Love your channel. When are you going to do an ev conversion? I am doing a 74 super beetle on my youtube channel bills cool projects. Go down to San Diego at EVWest spend a day. Thanks again for the videos.
yea those are cool. just be aware that they say way more range than what you will actually get. The rated range is much less than actual range. They rate the range at 45mph which would be dangerous on the freeway. The Bus we took up north was rated at 250 miles. On flat ground at 60mph it never got better than 120 usable range. On hills it really gets lower. Great for around town but impossible to do road trips.
@@Mikefngarage thanks mike. Yep agree. More charging stations help that. Conversions with ccs charging also. But how much range does our gas Vw’s have when we break down. We have both been there. Plus performance and reliability. Forget the environment thing. Take care.
@@bparkinson1234 the difference is that your range on the EV when you run out it is 8 to 12 hours of charge time. Unless you go with a Level 3 controller $$$$$. then you also degrade the battery from too much use by using level 3. an hour on the charger can get you like 5 miles. at level 2. Just be aware you will not be doing any long trips. In town they are great. But you do give up long trip privileges.
Mike check out OB1s oval conversion in Malibu. th-cam.com/video/GUoK7KdEsHE/w-d-xo.html
IT'S EASIER TO PUT the pistons in ther jugs first. put the wrist pin clip in the piston on the side that faces the other jug. push the piston down till the wrist pin hole is exposed out the bottom of the jug. assemble all 4 jugs this way. then just silicon the jug shoulder, slide the jug down the studs, line up the rod and wrist pin till it slips thru. install the clip and seat the jug. do the other jug and finish assembling that side. your way ;looked to mer like it would lent itself to broken rings. IMHO
If that fan cooling shroud has a cooling tin extension for an oil cooler,,i.e. outside the air flow to # 3 cylinder, that is not a Type 1 engine, but a type 2. One of the Type 1 engine's main "gremlins" was the blockage of cooling air flow to the number 3 cylinder, which required constant lash adjustment to avoid burned valves. in addition to almost always being the first push rod tube seals to fail. On Type 1 engines the cooler was inside the fan cooling tine ( no "doghouse")
I think your confusing your types. Type 1 had the doghouse after 1970. The bus went to t4 in 72
@@davidpechumer556i love the type4 cooling fan.
What's the milage of this set-up?
Odd that there are references to the “east” not having machine shops, has this guy been back there?
not very many vw machine shops they are not the same as regular machine shops. have differernt machines. guys tell me this stuff from back there.
@@Mikefngarage Then you don't mean machine shops, you mean VW parts stores
The engine was started first time being built in history. It is on Rocket steam engine. Then it became condense and steam engine of multi-pistons type. The car with rear compartment needs the engine but the wholly is bigger than the engine named the motor. Engine is what type of engines: The carburetor aspirator type or fuel-injection Direct type or Otto radial turbo engine but it does not have any battery. Some motor with the battery can be 6-volt or 12 v. or 36 volts system. The engine is running is like there is no air filter and no oil filter and not even electric starter that crank the motor up. Even the engine have no radiator. Motor always wants to be cooled off. But hotter engine tends to be much hotter and wear out FelPro gasket and add in NOS nitrous to a racing motor size 560 CID from crate.
??????????
I was saying the same thing but didnt comment.
Yeah but I had sauce with mine😂
Less goop the better, why not Gasket Cinch a very thin viscosity contact cement
Thanks
explain what casesavers do
good one.
@@Mikefngarage Carb cleaner on bare skin is a real no-no.
@@autodidact537 for sure.
It’s been four decades since I last built a VW engine. I had a lot of fun with VWs in the ‘70’s. It’s good that they were so fun and easy to work on - because their long term reliability sucked. Amazing that so much remains the same. I used Rimco to add shuffle pins and 8 dowel crank/flywheel etc.
Generator is made in China for Volkswagen Super fast 75HP and 75 amp Beetle.
The electric motor is converted into a commutator type generator. These generator is brushless generator that provide 1,000 watts and the Bosch did not have brushless system for generator. But for now more money is for better performance of the generator to a real good reason it is durability or even 1,200 watts generator.
So why is it that you say you're going to leave links in here and then you don't?? Just wondering
101:34 Dizzy drive is last. Set the bottom end first.
All ways put a rag in the block , be for the piston C-clip. just my two cents
I had a 2007cc, engle 110 cam and twin 36 dellortos in my Splitty and the fuel economy was a massive improvement over the stock 1600cc. Its a perfect combination, more than double the power and better gas mileage and you don't even notice hills any more...I miss that old bus
Thanks a ton fellas for the vid, so much great information. I'm trying to document this list so I can present it to my engine builder. Can I please share the list here with you and see what I'm missing?
OLD ENGINES ARE STRESS RELIEVED NEW ENGINES WILL WARP AND PULL AND STRESS RELIEVE IT SELF THREW THERMAL CYCLING .WANTS THE ENGINE RUNS NOTHING STAYS PERFECT P.S SO SHOULD RETORQUE HEADS AND ADJUST VALVES AFTER BREAKIN PERIOD. AND THAN YOU WILL HAVE A VERY RELIABLE RUNNING ENGINE
yea always retorque heads. I do it every other valve adjustment. at least the ones behind the rockers.
Good shlt
I built over 150 VW engines (70's), from out to in, with ZERO - NONE - 0 returns. AT ALL❗️
Reliable Bullet proof & VW boxer air-cooled don't go together.
that one is about as reliable as it can get and true they still are not built to last forever. My buddy gets about 150k miles or more out of one of these style engines which is not bad.
👍👍👍😎😎😎
My last 40hp I got 271k out of it
I've had four beetles in the past, if you want to know how to fix a beetle engine you need a book called How To Keep Your Beetle Alive, Step by Step Procedures for the Complete Idiot, it's brilliant, you can't go wrong.
If you believe you have the correct torque spec’s, you should say it.
You lot me with mismatch head studes, omg give me a break.
GLAND NUT ALOT OF GUYS USE IMPACTS ON GLAND NUTS TO FINAL TIGHTEN ,WRONG ,ALWAYS TORQUE GLAND NUT ,OR YOU WILL BE SORRY
We usually do that too. I did with a huge torque wrench for years. and if your racing definitely
FYI….brake cleaner and human skin are a bad mix. Your gonna need to wear gloves unless you want skin that looks like an elephant in 20 years. You’re welcome!
When I saw you stick sealant between the casings, I stopped watching. VW engines are assembled without sealant between the casings for a very important reason..
Wow cocaine is powerful drug
What "we" do is lol. You don't build motors that's obvious.
The motor package you have choose to go with is a disaster.
Good luck enjoying the very $$$ low performance your going too get.
What a waste of time and money!