Great Struggling with hesitation and idle. Bad has gotten worse. Went through a lot of trouble shooting. I have changed fuel pump (seems for no reason). Changed my carburetor (my stock one was constantly leaking - but may be fine). Checked plugs - seem ok. Changed wires. Learned a lot so far. Checking fuel pressure next (rumors of over producing?). Just about to attempt timing adjustment - video is clear and a big help. Thanks again, Tom G
Thanks loads, well explained you helped me out of a problem that was a nightmare my valves were tight at tdc on pulley mark,number 1 cylinder with rotor pointing at number 1, so wrong thanks again, mark from Wales, uk
Adjusting valves with engine cold is just a reference, I always do mine at operating temperature and every engine is different depending on cam etc you can make lash much closer then check when cold. But I set mine and engine sounds like it has hydraulic lifters. Has to be at operating temperature and then I change oil. Been doing it that way since the 70's. My ram air pontiac I'd set at 1 thousands and that's conservative, some guys do zero lash that's a little extreme for me 😁
It’s not just a reference. If the engine is warm, the clearances will not be correct. Heat expands everything in the valve train, so if you set at .006 when warm, it *will* not be .006 when cold. Volkswagen engineered the valve clearances so that it must be done cold to have proper clearance at operating temperature. If the valves are too tight, they won’t properly transfer heat and you’ll burn valves. If they’re too loose, you’ve lost efficiency and it creates other problems. Stick with the official Bentley Manual that Volkswagen used in the dealerships
@@MaineMachinist Yeah been doing it since the 70's hot and when cold comes back to. 006 for exhaust and .004 for intake. Material of pushrods is a big factor for valve lash. Operating temperature is far more accurate than cold, it's as close to dynamic you can get. I've adjusted hot on some engines to have it come out as .010/.012 cold 😳 Your engine looks pretty basic/stock to me. You start putting exotic parts/materials in your engines and you WILL run into valve problems. Same goes with balancing, static balancing is good but dynamic includes so many more variables. You're a Machinist you know all about the variables calculating feed rates for Machining. Material is number one on the list then tool including the amount of Flutes material of tool, coating on tool , I can go on. You start putting dual carbs with dual port heads and light weight pushrods and all on that buggy and you'll learn the hard way setting a cold lash that's close. I believe most want you to start at .014/.016 then when hot measure to come up with your own tolerances on all 4 cylinders. You might find a difference between cylinders 1/3 compared to 2/4 depending on exhaust. Just trying to keep your valve train maintenance down to a minimum and performance up a tad. I can go 2 oil changes before needing to adjust. But you can do what you want, if it works for you great. You do know all tolerances in an engine are a calculations for proper OPERATING tolerances ! Also if engine going into storage for any amount of time, it's recommended to backoff rocker rod bolts so springs won't weaken. Not all engines are capable of this being done but 6 months with a intake valve sitting wide open can't be good 😕
Also #3 Cylinder Intake & Exhaust Valves will move at the same time, will determine if your at TDC to Adjust # 1 Intake and Exhaust Valves.If #4 Cylinder Valves move at the same time, then you will adjust #2 Valves.Repeat the Sequence on the rest.
After hours searching and scratching my head your video saved me from banging my head on the wall, thank you very much, very informative, explained perfectly, simple and super helpful
This is great stuff but I have both an aftermarket distributor and pulley, so there are no notches on either 😭😭 I need a breakdown on how to find TDC without any marks or notches.
Watch the rocker arms move to find when both are in the closed position on Cylinder 1. Closed position means the valves are closed and therefore both rocker arms should be free and able to move by hand as shown in the video.
Just come accross your video great vid btw had issues with my t25 were ihve ahd to redo both carbs timing spot on but valve adjustment seems really tight and getting poping could that be were to tight .?
It could be. The first step on any tune up for an air cooled volkswagen is setting the valve adjustment. Here’s how I approach a tune up 1) Valves 2) Plugs 3) Points 4) Timing 5) Carburetor Last
Many ways to do this, but I’m showing the MOST fool proof way for beginners to know they aren’t making a mistake Notice the video title isn’t the FASTEST method but the FOOL PROOF method
Wondering - I have a tube that comes out of the left side of the deck plate and goes to a small pot mounted to manifold with a lil nipple on it - What is it???? oil breather / cooler? Cant seem to attach photo?
Simple put the car in 4th gear push it to see what two valves are rocking. Adjust the opposite side which will be on the back side of the cam. As simple as that.
Hiya, I've had electronic dizzy put in, however it is doughy at moving off the start. After removing new to replace with old, I'd moved motor not realising the dizzy was out. According to my flywheel timing mark I should be at tdc, but piston tdc is 180 off, and inlet valve rocks but exhaust is tight. Trying to get some others thoughts.👍
I would verify TDC by watching the rockers as you manually rotate the crank (pull all the plugs)and see the valves go through a full cycle.. When you are on the compression stroke on # 1 you know you're approaching TDC. When you know you're really close then use your flywheel mark to zero it in. Then rotate your dizzy so the timing mark on the dizzy body lines up with wherever your rotor is pointing. You're done. That spot on the dizz will be your spark plug wire # 1. Now you only need to rotate the dizzy sligtly to set the timing. There are lots of videos on that. Good luck.@@evansievers7222
I loved your explanation however I find that I make sure the pulley has its notches at either the top or the bottom and then go looking for the lose valves and adjust them and work backwards from there.
This was designed to make it as simple as possible so no one makes a mistake. There’s a lot of faster ways to go once a person is a lot more experienced
Does your crank pulley have the marks on it? You could line it up with the case halves and pull the valve covers to see which valves are closed or open. You could use a wooden dowel in the spark plug hole to help find the piston at TDC
Great
Struggling with hesitation and idle.
Bad has gotten worse.
Went through a lot of trouble shooting.
I have changed fuel pump (seems for no reason).
Changed my carburetor (my stock one was constantly leaking - but may be fine).
Checked plugs - seem ok.
Changed wires.
Learned a lot so far.
Checking fuel pressure next (rumors of over producing?).
Just about to attempt timing adjustment - video is clear and a big help.
Thanks again, Tom G
Check out the video on cleaning the heat risers and make sure they are clean. That will have a big impact on hesitation.
Thanks loads, well explained you helped me out of a problem that was a nightmare my valves were tight at tdc on pulley mark,number 1 cylinder with rotor pointing at number 1, so wrong thanks again, mark from Wales, uk
So glad it was a help!
Mark of the BEAST !
I wish I had the views of Mr. Beast lol
Adjusting valves with engine cold is just a reference, I always do mine at operating temperature and every engine is different depending on cam etc you can make lash much closer then check when cold. But I set mine and engine sounds like it has hydraulic lifters. Has to be at operating temperature and then I change oil. Been doing it that way since the 70's. My ram air pontiac I'd set at 1 thousands and that's conservative, some guys do zero lash that's a little extreme for me 😁
It’s not just a reference. If the engine is warm, the clearances will not be correct. Heat expands everything in the valve train, so if you set at .006 when warm, it *will* not be .006 when cold.
Volkswagen engineered the valve clearances so that it must be done cold to have proper clearance at operating temperature.
If the valves are too tight, they won’t properly transfer heat and you’ll burn valves. If they’re too loose, you’ve lost efficiency and it creates other problems.
Stick with the official Bentley Manual that Volkswagen used in the dealerships
@@MaineMachinist Yeah been doing it since the 70's hot and when cold comes back to. 006 for exhaust and .004 for intake. Material of pushrods is a big factor for valve lash. Operating temperature is far more accurate than cold, it's as close to dynamic you can get. I've adjusted hot on some engines to have it come out as .010/.012 cold 😳 Your engine looks pretty basic/stock to me. You start putting exotic parts/materials in your engines and you WILL run into valve problems. Same goes with balancing, static balancing is good but dynamic includes so many more variables. You're a Machinist you know all about the variables calculating feed rates for Machining. Material is number one on the list then tool including the amount of Flutes material of tool, coating on tool , I can go on. You start putting dual carbs with dual port heads and light weight pushrods and all on that buggy and you'll learn the hard way setting a cold lash that's close. I believe most want you to start at .014/.016 then when hot measure to come up with your own tolerances on all 4 cylinders. You might find a difference between cylinders 1/3 compared to 2/4 depending on exhaust. Just trying to keep your valve train maintenance down to a minimum and performance up a tad. I can go 2 oil changes before needing to adjust. But you can do what you want, if it works for you great. You do know all tolerances in an engine are a calculations for proper OPERATING tolerances ! Also if engine going into storage for any amount of time, it's recommended to backoff rocker rod bolts so springs won't weaken. Not all engines are capable of this being done but 6 months with a intake valve sitting wide open can't be good 😕
Also #3 Cylinder Intake & Exhaust Valves will move at the same time, will determine if your at TDC to Adjust # 1 Intake and Exhaust Valves.If #4 Cylinder Valves move at the same time, then you will adjust #2 Valves.Repeat the Sequence on the rest.
#3 is always in overlap when on TDC #1 simple and easy cause some times the distributer can be 180 out
Good stuff
After hours searching and scratching my head your video saved me from banging my head on the wall, thank you very much, very informative, explained perfectly, simple and super helpful
I’m so glad it was helpful to you! Thank you for watching!
This is great stuff but I have both an aftermarket distributor and pulley, so there are no notches on either 😭😭 I need a breakdown on how to find TDC without any marks or notches.
Watch the rocker arms move to find when both are in the closed position on Cylinder 1. Closed position means the valves are closed and therefore both rocker arms should be free and able to move by hand as shown in the video.
You can also remove the spark plug and use a wooden dowel in the hole to find when cylinder 1 is at its highest position (TDC)
Just come accross your video great vid btw had issues with my t25 were ihve ahd to redo both carbs timing spot on but valve adjustment seems really tight and getting poping could that be were to tight .?
It could be.
The first step on any tune up for an air cooled volkswagen is setting the valve adjustment.
Here’s how I approach a tune up
1) Valves
2) Plugs
3) Points
4) Timing
5) Carburetor Last
Or you could adjust all loose valves 4
Turn to #3 and do the same again and be done
Many ways to do this, but I’m showing the MOST fool proof way for beginners to know they aren’t making a mistake
Notice the video title isn’t the FASTEST method but the FOOL PROOF method
My 69 model doesn't have the mark.
Wondering - I have a tube that comes out of the left side of the deck plate and goes to a small pot mounted to manifold with a lil nipple on it - What is it???? oil breather / cooler? Cant seem to attach photo?
Almost certainly was a cylinder head temperature sensor from a later model engine that was original Fuel Injected.
Simple put the car in 4th gear push it to see what two valves are rocking. Adjust the opposite side which will be on the back side of the cam. As simple as that.
Many ways to skin this cat. What I wanted to show here was a way a person who is very unsure of themself could be 10000% sure they wouldn’t mess it up
👍
If you were on # 3 the rotor would be 180 degrees from where it is now.
Sometimes you’ll find a distributor installed 180 degrees out
Hiya, I've had electronic dizzy put in, however it is doughy at moving off the start. After removing new to replace with old, I'd moved motor not realising the dizzy was out.
According to my flywheel timing mark I should be at tdc, but piston tdc is 180 off, and inlet valve rocks but exhaust is tight.
Trying to get some others thoughts.👍
I would verify TDC by watching the rockers as you manually rotate the crank (pull all the plugs)and see the valves go through a full cycle.. When you are on the compression stroke on # 1 you know you're approaching TDC. When you know you're really close then use your flywheel mark to zero it in. Then rotate your dizzy so the timing mark on the dizzy body lines up with wherever your rotor is pointing. You're done. That spot on the dizz will be your spark plug wire # 1. Now you only need to rotate the dizzy sligtly to set the timing. There are lots of videos on that. Good luck.@@evansievers7222
@@MaineMachinist That's what I discovered about mine. Previous owner didn't bother to tell me.
I loved your explanation however I find that I make sure the pulley has its notches at either the top or the bottom and then go looking for the lose valves and adjust them and work backwards from there.
This was designed to make it as simple as possible so no one makes a mistake. There’s a lot of faster ways to go once a person is a lot more experienced
Hey what’s the gap on that electric ignition module in the distributor ?
I don't have a distributor it's in an airplane and it's a 1835 so how do I determine cylinder number 1
Does your crank pulley have the marks on it? You could line it up with the case halves and pull the valve covers to see which valves are closed or open. You could use a wooden dowel in the spark plug hole to help find the piston at TDC
What’s your ignition system?