Please refer to the video description for time stamps and links to other helpful content on this platform. Quick guide to the biggest issues: The extractor (skip to 12:55), debris in firing pin channel (skip to 16:42), disconnector hang up (addressed with work at 11:18, 28:14, and 39:33), magazine issues (skip to 40:56). Thanks for watching and I hope this is helpful!
In 50 minutes you have taught me more about my 4.25 prodigy, 1911 and magazines, then my scatter bits of research over the years.😂 I sincerely appreciate your time, effort, and hours of putting this all together in the editing room. Thank you much for this knowledge share!❤
Bought a new 4.25 Prodigy yesterday. Took it home and did everything you suggested in this video. Shot 100 rd.s with one failure to go into battery and one failure to lock back after the last rd.. After having 6 1911’s over the years I’m not worried about reliability. 3 of the six were not reliable out of the box but with a little tuning they all became great shooters without issues. Just takes a little massaging. Once you get it dialed nothing is better. 👍
Freaking killer video. I love doing this. I am picking my prodigy 4.25 up today. I can't wait been wiring to get my dream pistol a 2011 for 5 years now and today's the day. I can't afford a staccot and actually think the prodigy is much Sexier pistol. I love doing upgrades. These tips and tricks are killer. Thanks alot. Keep up the great work.
Man. I know you thought the video was long, but you really don’t notice because you’re so invested in it. Can’t tell you how much I appreciate you taking the time to do this video mostly in real time. Great, great information. I’d love for you to get hold of my M17 and review it and tear it apart 😅. Thanks again!
Fantastic video! One of the best videos I’ve seen on 1911 work and even more appreciated as a prodigy supporter! When someone goes to the effort to put something like this out there, I consider a gift - thank you!
Man. Where have you been all my life! Your mechanics brain along with cool sharing ability to bring us onto a cool path you're on is tops man. Your experience of the honing on these cool weapons makes for quality content. Keep it up! Great man🇺🇲
This was the most informative video I have seen on the Prodigy! Your approach in explaining the details and showing the interaction between components helped in understanding some of the issues I have experienced and how to address them. I think sometimes gunsmiths assume people understand what they are doing without going into the detail that fills in the blanks. Excellent job and I will be saving this video for reference.
Great video - very informative! As a mechanical engineer, you shared great observations and solutions for optimal performance! Enjoyed the content and may watch this video a few more times down the road. Thank you in all respects!
Firstly, thank you . Great video got mine yesterday. The slide sticks just a little so far thats about all i see that needs some attention. I think I'll run a couple hundred rnds fist and see where the wear patterns show up. Then i guess i pull down my first 2011 style and eo some touch ups. I'll be lurking around now . Subed , thanks again
Dude you kicked ass on this video. I carry the 4.25 for duty. I’m still qualified with my old TRP Springfield.45. I did change the hammer and sear to a nighthawk. Great job.
I’m inspired! As a fellow engineer I’m looking into a prodigy for my first 2011 because I want to tinker and research and upgrade! This is such a beautiful resource you shared with everyone. Is there a set of files and stones you recommend buying as well as any tools you used here?
Hello fellow engineer! I am glad you enjoy the content. I use the little gunsmithing file set from Otis. Wheeler and other makes them too. A nice flat, fine file is also helpful. I spend a little more money on these ($30-40 per file). I use a variety of stones. Most are cheap ones from Amazon. But the fine ceramic one I use is from Brownell's - a bit more spendy but you need one with nice sharp corners for hammer hooks. Brownell's is a great resource for all sorts of gunsmithing tools. Some good places to start: www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Engineering-Professional-Gunsmithing-File/dp/B01B3NW53M/ref=sr_1_5?crid=M4NALD4X1N46&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Yrn3Pt6WDfqkOVaSWD0uAI3CaEKt2GjbQkq8gnNlyMD9YaTd4T3KeEQ4AArcZcB2-9RkoiloIZo_dMPWTv7LH3-8-ZRTmr_Nyd38a3bMVMbf1qY3lyN_8ZcXqS66TOc0Bluk0NUy2wp_COBJE5EIeEs3HQ0BqUOR1nHKSEY7yCEESgGeeivhMDDmmNpGM-GvvsTnDD85vTl2QP5OBgEDlVUp5j-cQaK3MejaiUIld01yP6fZIMEtRX8t3MqZrsNGV70jHryxHUBSX8SdusP9Z7psHTP4di3UiQeiorsq8DYZQRZ1XOLMPHGhA34su3Vrq31Gc7Y10MZFblPmPP4LaimBVbdBrJQqQCwKC2k4IQB5evK6mhMTT2edwZ8USSwakifT5MbL9ydnC8DIkedocdQCEieeH8NekrHToZb_XD2buA-hVeL5Z-huIJFxa3IJ.A1Hf6rv-mw4NxemQXyQ7I-4zV7Y4uFX9W2m99RrQEEc&dib_tag=se&keywords=gunsmithing+files&qid=1734823224&sprefix=gunsmithing+file%2Caps%2C194&sr=8-5 www.amazon.com/CHEERBRIGHT-Whetstone-Sharpening-Polishing-Variety/dp/B0796T3CT7/ref=sr_1_9?crid=1FDUSV0587DSL&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.BgyP0r6ZW2QmCcf16wFKunXR2jgo2bc96phIBRxAWhuaWhfXl1N2_5s4W0w9OXbcTSFS_gqTmLt360zIpPgYq4xJffkrq2GCcdKaDYPh7RjKaW3sobjO_KJfzuOOZ2zjD6XOpHdpT2DYj32r5DdBE7X90pMH3luIv1_LUT5TyE2gCqLFP8NrOUK01GFstfL45fovU9quI2-X0k3ip6s3ONiR7i3r0V1vVeel5LAUaEPmLK30qnsj4AJFTyBa6suciC-A1LPsIlSiy9fEWGGQPSKFlrefehuTdS1pNasVntMAP9Xclc2oL2qZFOSM61t55gtdMNpmUukVjZwP7eWrueiBoftAfGnwPSILd3aJyapumcYljovqmmyKfgyH-2-50i7r5cr_Lff_iNeXH_TvrtLBI_KcPWaOGgC4hvGnxuOFB5Nmti9jNRH3A1BXA-9p.ZsJpoeInSzgKDH4wo3Rg6U0QPTwQ7bXngL3hdz3aIKI&dib_tag=se&keywords=india+stones&qid=1734823390&sprefix=india+stone%2Caps%2C206&sr=8-9 www.amazon.com/CBRIGHT-Sharpening-Precision-Grinding-5-9x0-47x0-24Inch/dp/B0796RZL4N/ref=sr_1_8?crid=1FDUSV0587DSL&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.BgyP0r6ZW2QmCcf16wFKunXR2jgo2bc96phIBRxAWhuaWhfXl1N2_5s4W0w9OXbcTSFS_gqTmLt360zIpPgYq4xJffkrq2GCcdKaDYPh7RjKaW3sobjO_KJfzuOOZ2zjD6XOpHdpT2DYj32r5DdBE7X90pMH3luIv1_LUT5TyE2gCqLFP8NrOUK01GFstfL45fovU9quI2-X0k3ip6s3ONiR7i3r0V1vVeel5LAUaEPmLK30qnsj4AJFTyBa6suciC-A1LPsIlSiy9fEWGGQPSKFlrefehuTdS1pNasVntMAP9Xclc2oL2qZFOSM61t55gtdMNpmUukVjZwP7eWrueiBoftAfGnwPSILd3aJyapumcYljovqmmyKfgyH-2-50i7r5cr_Lff_iNeXH_TvrtLBI_KcPWaOGgC4hvGnxuOFB5Nmti9jNRH3A1BXA-9p.ZsJpoeInSzgKDH4wo3Rg6U0QPTwQ7bXngL3hdz3aIKI&dib_tag=se&keywords=india+stones&qid=1734823390&sprefix=india+stone%2Caps%2C206&sr=8-8
Great video. I literally did every single thing you did the day I bought mine and never had a single issue. Only thing I did additional was polished the hammer face and smoothed out the radius on the hammer where it interfaces with the disconnector rail
Thanks! I appreciate it. Ah yes the hammer face. I was sure I was going to miss something. Although this one was reliable out of the box when I first shot it, the performance was very mediocre, and this work made it shoot so much nicer!
awsome video. hits all of the points that are concerns with the prodigy. i own 4.25 ported and a regular 4.25 . the newer 4.25 ported had no issues at all. thanks for the great video!
The first pistols were rough. They pretty quickly got their manufacturing, tolerancing, and QC figured out. They are cranking out some solid "budget" 2011's now!
Eh not really at this point. I sold the gun. Upgrades are done, not going to buy another to show the process. Its pretty much the same as this honestly. Its a modular doublestack 1911 with 70 series internals. Only difference being a bushing barrel. I posted quite a few videos on that Tisas as I did upgrades to it. If there is a specific question you have that is not covered in those videos Im happy to answer it.
Hey man, absolutely amazing video. I’ll most definitely be rewatching this 100 times over but the main reason I am here is because I just bought the 5” haven’t even gotten to shoot it yet… I take it out of the box and the left side thumb safety basically just fell off so I take it apart see how it fits and it fits pretty snug so I clean it all up ( not to your spec that’s for sure ) out everything back together and start flicking the safety a bunch. I start to see it coming out again. I’m wrong handed so the more pressure I put on the right side of the safety it ends up driving the left side out and shoot that spring around… thankfully I found it lol but I’ve taken to gun smiths one said send it back to Springfield the other said the milling on the safety isn’t done properly or isn’t there at all. The prodigy gods pointed towards you, what’s your thought in this ? Thank you !! You’ll definitely be my go channel from now on!!
Appreciate your kind words. I hope you continue to find the video helpful as you work with your Prodigy. The left side thumb safety should only come out in one specific position and that is between the on and off safe positions. This is intentional as the gun is either off safe or on safe, and only briefly passes the position it can come out as you sweep it on or off. I would try taking the spring plunger out (so you're not fighting it), then take the right side safety out (rotate it up then pull out once the left side one is out). Then only install the left side safety. put it all the way down and see if it comes out, all the way up and see if it can come out - it should not in either position. I took a picture of mine and uploaded it to my reddit account. There is a little ridge that I drew an arrow pointing too. I bet your safety is missing it. That is what holds the safety in the frame in both the on safe and off safe position. www.reddit.com/user/rrppdd4/comments/1gz9t1f/1911_safety_detail/ Likely the left side thumb safety is the cause. The hole in the frame needs to be a specific shape though as well so if that wasn't machined properly that could cause it too (seems less likely to me). The left and right side safety should fit together snugly in the center. This video shows how to tighten it up (00:28 - 01:15): th-cam.com/video/ZYghQPO8w1E/w-d-xo.html However even if they join together loosely with the tongue and groove in the center - that would not cause the left side one to come out. Let me know what you figure out. it should likely go back to Springfield either way. If the thumb safety is the cause, and you plan on replacing it then maybe not. If the thumb safety is the cause, you need a new one.
@@EngineersArmory you’re amazing dude thank you. Seriously. I’m 99.9 % I found the issue. So I watched the atlas video you referred and I saw when he fits the safety together to check fitment I see that the male and female are flush so I fit mine together and see the male is too long by and 1/8 inch so I do more investigating and find that any pressure on either side will eventually wiggle it out since it doesn’t finish flush. I hope I explained that correctly I’d send you a picture but i can’t here. So now my question is, should I mill out that 1/8 on the female ? Or just get a whole new safety, I was only avoiding sending it to springfield because I heard of the turn around times are either good or horrible, but if this is an easy fix I’m more then willing to do it Again, you’re amazing thank you so much
@@stitch8786 I think I understand what you're saying. What is easier than making the female groove deeper - is make the male tang shorter haha. Also if they do not fit all the way together, that means the left side safety will never actually engage all the way into the frame and be captured properly. the big flat part of the safety (perpendicular to where you rest your thumb) should be flush up against the frame. Do the test I outlined in my last reply. right side safety out, spring and plunger for left side safety removed, can you install the left side safety all the way? can you only install and pull it out half way between engaged and disengaged? can you pull it out when fully up or down? if it works properly without the right side safety installed, that means the interface between the two safety halves is causing your problem - likely they dont fit all the way together.
@ yes sir. 100% it’s the interface, I did the test you explained and it worked as you described, only come out when it’s in that middle spot. If my brain is working correctly even if i shorten the male would it be too slim for the frame ? If that’s the case I just need a new safety
@stitch8786 measure the frame width. Measure the width between the left and right side safety when they are put together. You will either need to shorten the tip of the male side, or the two tips of the female side.
Brownells has a great selection of gunsmithing tools. I got my fine ceramic stone through them. The others I bough on amazon. It's important to have a higher quality stone for finishing, the stones leading up to that one can be cheaper. Keep in mind this is just what has been working for me - there are many other possibilities so some research is helpful. I also use lots of wet sanding paper from 400-2000 grit - having a variety helps. Here are some links: I use these for roughing in surfaces - they are very soft so get some honing solution. The 80-1000 grit set is nice for general use. www.amazon.com/CHEERBRIGHT-7pcs-Whetstone-Stone-Sharpening/dp/B0796RZL4N/ref=sr_1_16?crid=INKAR7LSC7AG&keywords=india%2Bstone&qid=1683730151&sprefix=india%2Bston%2Caps%2C144&sr=8-16&th=1 Honing solution: www.amazon.com/Smiths-HON1-4OZ-HON1-4oz-Honing-Solution/dp/B0013AXUOY/ref=sr_1_4?crid=PSXI2SQLKN6C&keywords=honing+solution&qid=1683730486&sprefix=honing+solutio%2Caps%2C153&sr=8-4 These are used for the next step - they are harder and finer and come in very handy shapes (the ruby stone): www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0796T3CT7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 Here is the fine, hard and sharp edged stone I use for final polishing work: www.brownells.com/tools-cleaning/paint-metal-prep/abrasives-polishing/6-x-12-x-12-ceramic-stones/ Hope this helps! Thanks for watching and happy tinkering!
This is a great video for the Prodigy! I love knowing how my firearms work. Will defiantly help if I run into problems, and also gives me a great idea of some of the parts i'm going to replace.
I considered that. In my experience with 1911/2011 pisols ite never been necessary for proper and very smooth disconnector operation. I have heard its also not recommended on calibers other than 45 acp because they have a narrower disconnector rail. I cannot confirm that. I should know that with how many of these I have looked at.
Just came across your video. Looks like you put the recoil spring on backwards. Open end of that spring should be towards the muzzle.....otherwise, good video.
Good eye. I know thats the "correct" way to install it. But honestly I have never paid much attention to it during install and it's never caused me problem. I have ran some aftermarket springs with two open ends.
Thanks for the link to this video! Exactly what I was looking for and very informative! I'll be referring to it again when I pick up the Mac 9 next week. It will be a few weeks before I will be home again and able to get too far into it.
I'm new to the DS Prodigy, but not to 1911s. This is a great video. Thanks for posting it. I disagree with polishing rails and loosening slide to frame fit. In 1911s, tight fit will contribute to accuracy. Also (and it may be a myth) I heard that polishing compound can get embedded in steel surfaces - even after cleaning them, t will accelerate subsequent wear between surfaces.
Thanks for watching and commenting! Regarding the slide lapping - I was mainly taking off the extra thickness put on by the Cerakote finish. The slide felt quite gummy out of the box even with fresh oil on it. Cerakote goes on thin but still adds thickness - was just wanting to get that knocked down so the slide and frame can wear into each other. Nothing that wouldn't happen in 500 or so rounds. Slide lapping and polishing can open up tolerances but with very fine media I would guess it would be very minor if at all. I am not an expert in 1911 stuff but I think lapping slides to frame is a normal process for slide to frame fit? Also, if I happen to open up slide to frame fit .0005" it doesn't matter much on a gun of this fit, price, and mass produced numbers. I wouldn't expect any polishing compound media to get imbedded in the metal of the slide or frame as lapping doesn't occur with any lateral force pressing the metals together with the lapping compound in between. But certainly with either diamond or AlO2 media being harder than the steel I could see how that could happen with enough contact force - likely not a concern in this application. As far as I know (again no expert on this platform) but accuracy comes from the barrel-to-slide fit at the front (or barrel-to-barrel bushing if its not a bull barrel), and where the chamber area and locking lugs lock up into the slide (which can also be affected by the barrel link and barrel link legs). I would think the slide to frame fit would have to be VERY loose to affect accuracy if you had a good lockup at the front and rear or the barrel.
Shot two of these, and honestly they are amazing shooters. I don't shoot irons, and even with irons the gun was so easy to get hits with. PS. Aquired a Prodigy, and in some ways it's great and in some ways it's a pain in the ass. The main issue I am fighting, is the disconnector still wanting to snag (barely), and the disconnector being sticky in the channel (lots of cerakote). I removed the cerakote in the channel, and switched to an EGW disconnector, but the EGW disconnecter still occasionally wanted to hang up in the channel...it's not as bad as when the cerakote was there, but it's still concerning. Reason I'm focused on this, is because the gun WILL suffer from hammer follow in its current configuration if the disconnector gets gummy enough to stick in the down position. Of course, I can just tweak the sear spring again, and likely go back to a 5lb trigger, but I'm hoping to find a solution at the 3-3.5lb trigger pull I managed to get. I will likely swap to EGW internals, but I wanted to give the gun a chance with stock internals (I've only had it suffer from hammer follow 2 times in 650~rds. I'm just not trying to have a gun that needs to be cleaned every 200rds or else it risks going full auto.
Totally agree that this is great gun if you enjoy working on and have the ability to work on 2011s. If your that person at this price this gun is a no brainer.
100%. Buy it if you want a tinkering project. I just bought an optics ready CZ Shadow 2 for $1200. I think these are going for around $1450 right now... The Shadow 2 blows this out of the water. The Prodigy is not even close to the level of reliability or performance of the Shadow 2 and it cost $250 more. Its pretty sad.
This video was incredibly helpful for tuning my 5” Prodigy, and each step was essential in taking the pistol to a better level; although it never gave me any problems, it's now much smoother. My main use is for USPSA competitions, and I incorporated many of the recommendations you expertly described in your video. Additional upgrades I made included installing the A14B plate, the Holosun 507 Comp sight, a magwell, the EGW ignition kit (excellent), the Atlas Flat X trigger, and a 9lb Wolff recoil spring. The issue I’m experiencing is that with some of the 20-round magazines, the pistol locks open with one round left in the magazine, and I haven’t found a reliable solution for this issue. What would you suggest?
I'm glad the video was helpful! Sounds like you got your Prodigy dialed in. Check the mags in question first. I would inspect the follower closely. Compare them to mags that are reliable. Load each with one round and see if you can see a difference. Maybe feed lip geometry allows one follower to sit higher? Maybe worn magazine springs? Try other mags - atlas, checkmate, staccato, etc. See if any of them have an issue. I have never had this issue on a 1911 but I have on other pistols. Slide lockback with the slide stop before the mag is empty. It happened on pistols when I put a suppressor on them. I think the Extra back pressure and Higher slide velocity made the slide smack the rear of its travel so hard it jarred the gun enough for the slide stop to flop around into the up position. Try stiffer recoil springs. If your recoil spring has 5000+ rounds thru it, replace it and see if the problem persists. This is probably a last resort and I wouldnt recommend it. On a 1911 there is a plunger contacting the back of the slide stop. It puts a little force on that slide stop. Check that out. You may also be able to use a dremel with a grinding bit to put a tiny dimple in the back of the slide stop where the plunger contacts. Similar to the simple on the thumb safety the plunger goes into in the off safe position. Not that deep of a dimple tho. Too much and it may prevent slide lockback all together. That's just what popped into my mind. Again, never had that issue on a 1911. But maybe checking those things will give you a starting point. I'd like to hear what the fix was when you figure it out!
@@EngineersArmory thanks again, some things to add : magazines are brand new and the gun has less than 1.000 rounds. I ordered followers and springs to test before modifying the slide stop. Will let you know.
Excellent, This checklist can apply to every gun you own with obvious procedural changes. Get the schematic and trace down all the friction and reciprocating mass points. The key is to clean and ***INSPECT***.
Yep pretty much. I've refined this list and added to it for all 1911/2011 platform pistols and made a reference document for myself that includes a full trigger job for whatever weight I desire with instructions and measurements for hammer hooks and sear angles, etc. More broadly for all guns, out of the box, clean, inspect, lube, shoot 200 rounds minimum. See where wear shows up and polish those interfaces is how I approach it.
Picked up the 5 inch model a couple weeks ago. Sofar no issues but only put 400 rounds through it. My slide to frame has just a touch of play, which I assume is from the cerakote wearing off. No grit that I can feel in my trigger but definitely isn't as nice as my dan wesson specialist.
Glad to hear it has been reliable for you. I have since got my hands on a newer production Prodigy and it felt a lot nicer that this one that I worked on. With some tuning of the sear spring and adjustment of the trigger overtravel, the trigger action turned out pretty good.
Agreed. Unless you like tinkering, then this gun is a good option, makes for a fun little project. I've also calculated the cost of all the upgrades I would do to the pistol if it were mine and it came out to about $2100 total including the price of the gun (labor not included). If you dont wantna project, just save a few hundred more and get a Staccato P haha.
@@EngineersArmory absolutely, wanting one for EDC/Duty. I’m a certified Glock Armorer not that means much for my agency but a vast majority of the cleaning up you did and finishing work is not problem.
Great video, with all the time that you spent polishing/cleaning up burs and flashing, I'm surprised you didn't clean up the witness mark from the screw on the extractor. Definitely gives me things to look at when I pick mine up next Monday.
Mine did that but played with slide before I went to range no issues my buddy gun smith and we saw that a lot of issues people was having cause of the coating
The Cerakote was sticky for sure. I do not like cerkote on guns in general - decoratively on a handguard or something... whatever. But when its on a functional part where tolerances and dimensions are critical it's awful.
Looks like a lot of issues for prodigy. I have seen a lot of videos where slide won't go in battery and failure to eject...bummer...I was going to get this gun..but I guess I have to go with Wilson combat next
This is a very early production one. I think the current production ones are better. I've had my hands on one and it sure felt better. It is a shame the amount of performance you get for the price though. I still think at current prices (~$1299) they aren't worth the money.
No affiliate link - I'm not cool enough to get paid to do this. There is a comment buried in a reply with this info but its hard to find so I'll repost it here: Here are some links: I use these for roughing in surfaces - they are very soft so get some honing solution. The 80-1000 grit set is nice for general use. www.amazon.com/CHEERBRIGHT-7pcs-Whetstone-Stone-Sharpening/dp/B0796RZL4N/ref=sr_1_16?crid=INKAR7LSC7AG&keywords=india%2Bstone&qid=1683730151&sprefix=india%2Bston%2Caps%2C144&sr=8-16&th=1 Honing solution: www.amazon.com/Smiths-HON1-4OZ-HON1-4oz-Honing-Solution/dp/B0013AXUOY/ref=sr_1_4?crid=PSXI2SQLKN6C&keywords=honing+solution&qid=1683730486&sprefix=honing+solutio%2Caps%2C153&sr=8-4 These are used for the next step - they are harder and finer and come in very handy shapes (the ruby stone): www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0796T3CT7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 Here is the fine, hard and sharp edged stone I use for final polishing work: www.brownells.com/tools-cleaning/paint-metal-prep/abrasives-polishing/6-x-12-x-12-ceramic-stones/
Agreed. I think Springfield has fixed a lot of the issues on the newer production models and the price has dropped a few hundred making them a better value.
I really wanted this to be my next firearm but I keep running across videos like this. I feel like I heard they did some shadow updates to their production of these, but I dont know that for sure.
This one was pretty early production. Was rough but still functioned fine. I have gotten my hands on a newer production and it felt better. I don't think "shadow updates" is quite right although I understand what you mean by that. I think they have just better dialed in their manufacturing and tolerances on parts. I would say it's more of a safe bet to buy one now. The 4.25" version had less issues and I feel that slide length is better suited to the 9mm cartridge anyways.
Great video, but you left out one more person who this gun is for. It’s for the person who understands its limitations and issues but is willing to keep sending it back to SFA until it’s fixed. I bought mine about 2 months ago. I went into it understanding that I would probably have to send it back to SFA for a warranty repair at least once. Sure enough after about 300 rounds I was having failure to feed and weak extraction issues so I sent it back and they are working on it now. I love the way it shoots and I have the patience to let SFA fix it.
4-6 hours multiplied by whatever the gunsmith hourly rate is would be my guess. Gunsmith rates can vary widely so I cant really give you a dollar figure there.
Ones from amazon and brownells. I recently posted a video on polishing on my channel. There is links to everything I use in the description of that video. Check that out if you want specifics.
I really wish you showed how you polished these parts and what you used....rather i wish you had made this more beginner friendly lol it's not your fault I'm a starting idiot That being said I've learned more about pistols than ANYTHING I've ever watched or read. Thank You!!!!
Damn video would have been 3 hours long. I use medium, fine, and super fine stones, fine sand paper, small files, dremel with various sanding and polishing pads. If you look thru some of my other videos I show how I dress up a sear face and polish various parts in pistols and rifle trigger groups.
@@EngineersArmory Thank you so much. You've actually inspired me to just buy a Staccato with a Holosun, two mags and a holster. What sold me was you mentioning the internals being of higher quality. So it's twice as much but way more worth it imo. Also did more research and the Hex Dragonfly is dog shit. So the Staccato coming with a Holosun and two high quality mags and a nice holster makes up for the price difference. I'll just have to save up a bit but it's totally worth it imo
@@ElHombreGato the prodigy is a great place to start If you want to upgrade it yourself. If you just want a super solid, good to go 2011 out of the box, the Staccato is the way to go! And yes the Hex optics are dog shit hahaha. Glad the video was helpful. Thanks for watching and commenting!
A bit crazy isn't it? They have come down in price and I have gotten my hands on a newer production model and it's a lot better. But they beta tested the pistol on customers unfortunately. That new Kimber double stack is sweet. Why I would still prefer this personally is the compatibility with the (increasingly popular) 2011 platform. The Kimber looks like it has many proprietary parts which would limit how much I could modify it, and less options for magazines. But I like to modify my guns. I bet out of the box the Kimber would be a lot nicer and a better option if you had no plans to modify it. Thanks for watching!
It’s cerokote keep playing with slide of clean it and that’ll stop I have a 5” and no issues with about 300 round going to shoot again tomorrow just cleaned it
Genius: The Mounting Screw Its Not Long, you don't even have to cut it... You just have to turn it on its side. It happens that one side has longer screws than the other.
@dltz i need to get some stones, i have files but those will take WWAAAYYY too much off. Id rather polish the MIM first. Even doing a monthly IDPA I'll probably never outshoot the MIM parts. And since Im looking to transition this into a carry piece to replace my 1911 Operator 45 I EDC (which is alot heavier lol) I dont want to drop the trigger pull thst much either so win win
@@EngineMedic7 having a good set of stones is key. The MIM parts in the prodigy are high quality. I doubt many people would ever get high enough round count to experience issues with them. I would be worried about the longevity and reliability of a really light trigger... like sub 2.5#. But other than that no issues. They clean up nice and you should be able to get whatever kind of trigger you want within reason. On some areas of MIM parts if they got a nasty parting seam or something I'll even start with a fine file. Of course not on a sear face or hammer hooks. The critical surfaces on the ignition parts were fine. Easy to clean up. Dense metal, no seams or flashing.
The prodigy is a good gun if you want to tinker and can fix it up yourself. Generally yes, go with Staccato for better performance and reliability. The earlier prodigy pistols had more issues than current production ones.
Could it not be that at the end of the novel you want to return the weapon and in Springfield they refused to accept it due to changes in specifications and tolerances, scratches and "massive destruction" ?
Not quite sure what you mean by this comment. I don't think any of the work shown here would void the warranty but I cant be sure of that so I wont say for sure. In general, if the gun does not function properly when purchased it should go back to the manufacturer for repair. Some people may want to work on their own gun to see how they can improve it without the hassle of returning it to Springfield. Or maybe it is operating fine just like this one was, but they want to improve the function and make it smoother.
I've never had extraction issues with aluminum cases personally. Way more issues with steel case. I have shot thousands of rounds of this Al case ammo and it's generally been good. Certainly the optic plate mounting screw binding on the extractor would be a bigger issue to fix first.
I dunno, couple hundred thousand sold and maybe 20 or 30 videos with people having issues doesn't sound like much. I haven't had any out of my 5in. I did wait several months as gun companies seem to beta test on their customers. Lol😂
This one was 100% functional right out of the box. But there was tons of room for improvement. The fit and finish were pretty bad, and things like the disconnector hanging up are some simple fitting that I would expect to be done for a ~$1500 price point.
@@EngineersArmory yeah mine is very tight. I could feel the disconnector but after a couple hundred rounds it's worn in. People don't understand that even a Smith and Wesson 1911 from performance center is over 2k. They hand fit parts. 😂
Magician... Do you want me to believe the story that with a screwdriver, an old hammer and a sheet of out-of-use sandpaper and without precision measuring instruments... you can improve the performance of a factory-new gun ?
@@EngineersArmory really Atlas deleted it I think it's ugly as hell I'm going to pin mine there's really no point for it you shouldn't drop safety until you're ready to fire in my opinion
@@X-ForceBro I leave em. They never bothered me. Thats fine if you like to get rid of them. The gun aint drop safe anyways without a firing pin safety block haha.
@@EngineersArmory agreed I would only use a 1911 as a range toy anyway I suppose, Hey have you ever thought about playing some kind of layout compound on the seer and hammer to track where and see if it's perfectly even just the thought I was having?
This gun hasn't given anyone any problems... the problem is your clever tricks: Springfield Prodigy 1911DS | An In-Depth Look th-cam.com/video/PXbjTBexMkk/w-d-xo.html
Do u own one? Did u run out and buy the first batches 😐…guns coming out the box running now and folks who putting egw kits n them out shooting them overpriced 2011’ off the stock weigh alone paired wit the upgrades and they laughing last and loud…I speak cus I own a later production model because I wasn’t thirsty to buy the first batch which I don’t do with any man made item 🤷🏾♂️
I am sorry to hear that had been your experience with the ammo. It is not quite the cheapest out there. However, I have had no problems with it in the 3000+ rounds I have shot with it. Therefor I deemed it acceptable for my testing purposes, and it showed me what I needed to see about the operation of this firearm to begin work on it. Feel free to test with whatever ammo you like and have good experience with. You may personally deem my testing unreliable based on experience with that specific ammo. The application of this testing to a broader audience who doesn't have the same experiences as you may still be acceptable. I am just one dude, testing a sample of one gun, with one type of ammo so I would hope people wouldn't take what I am presenting as the absolute truth about the nature of this firearm or the ammo. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Please refer to the video description for time stamps and links to other helpful content on this platform.
Quick guide to the biggest issues: The extractor (skip to 12:55), debris in firing pin channel (skip to 16:42), disconnector hang up (addressed with work at 11:18, 28:14, and 39:33), magazine issues (skip to 40:56).
Thanks for watching and I hope this is helpful!
How to turn a Prodigy into a Staccato. Well done.
Ha not quite, that would require changing out some parts. But it sure as hell does feel better!
In 50 minutes you have taught me more about my 4.25 prodigy, 1911 and magazines, then my scatter bits of research over the years.😂
I sincerely appreciate your time, effort, and hours of putting this all together in the editing room. Thank you much for this knowledge share!❤
This was, by far, the best video on the prodigy. Thank you for taking the time to go step by step.
Thanks for the feedback! I appreciate it. That was my intention with this video.
Bought a new 4.25 Prodigy yesterday. Took it home and did everything you suggested in this video. Shot 100 rd.s with one failure to go into battery and one failure to lock back after the last rd.. After having 6 1911’s over the years I’m not worried about reliability. 3 of the six were not reliable out of the box but with a little tuning they all became great shooters without issues. Just takes a little massaging. Once you get it dialed nothing is better. 👍
Yes it was doing all this to mine. I questio. The recoil spring weight thou. I have heard factory was 9lb not 13 lb and could go to a 7 or 8 lb.
Freaking killer video. I love doing this. I am picking my prodigy 4.25 up today. I can't wait been wiring to get my dream pistol a 2011 for 5 years now and today's the day. I can't afford a staccot and actually think the prodigy is much Sexier pistol. I love doing upgrades. These tips and tricks are killer. Thanks alot. Keep up the great work.
Thats awesome! Glad its helpful! Happy tinkering on your new gun. Its a lot of fun!
Man. I know you thought the video was long, but you really don’t notice because you’re so invested in it. Can’t tell you how much I appreciate you taking the time to do this video mostly in real time. Great, great information. I’d love for you to get hold of my M17 and review it and tear it apart 😅. Thanks again!
Thanks so much! I appreciate the kind words! I do have a couple videos on my Sig M18 if you're interested.
Yes! Absolutely! I didn’t realize you had one. I’m looking for it right now 👍🏼
I'm about to pick up my Prodigy. This video is awesome and informative. Thanks for putting this information together!
You're most welcome! I hope you get your Prodigy all tuned up! This makes a huge difference.
@@EngineersArmory I'm looking forward to tinkering! I've built ARs and Glocks from parts. This is my first 1911 project.
Fantastic video! One of the best videos I’ve seen on 1911 work and even more appreciated as a prodigy supporter! When someone goes to the effort to put something like this out there, I consider a gift - thank you!
You're very welcome! I'm glad you enjoyed it and hopefully find it useful!
Man. Where have you been all my life! Your mechanics brain along with cool sharing ability to bring us onto a cool path you're on is tops man. Your experience of the honing on these cool weapons makes for quality content. Keep it up! Great man🇺🇲
Just been hanging out over here working on some guns. Glad you enjoy the content!
As a new prodigy owner this video is a goldmine of information. Thank you for doing this!
You're most welcome! Enjoy the new pistol. They are a great starting place for getting into the double stack 1911 game!
This was the most informative video I have seen on the Prodigy! Your approach in explaining the details and showing the interaction between components helped in understanding some of the issues I have experienced and how to address them. I think sometimes gunsmiths assume people understand what they are doing without going into the detail that fills in the blanks. Excellent job and I will be saving this video for reference.
Thanks so much for the wonderful feedback!
Great video - very informative! As a mechanical engineer, you shared great observations and solutions for optimal performance! Enjoyed the content and may watch this video a few more times down the road. Thank you in all respects!
Firstly, thank you . Great video got mine yesterday. The slide sticks just a little so far thats about all i see that needs some attention. I think I'll run a couple hundred rnds fist and see where the wear patterns show up. Then i guess i pull down my first 2011 style and eo some touch ups. I'll be lurking around now . Subed , thanks again
Thanks for watching, commenting and subscribing! The prodigy is good out of the box and a great starting place for a first 2011 project. Enjoy!
Dude you kicked ass on this video. I carry the 4.25 for duty. I’m still qualified with my old TRP Springfield.45. I did change the hammer and sear to a nighthawk. Great job.
Thanks so much I appreciate it!
I don't own a 2011, I just find the home gunsmith videos fascinating. Thanks for the video!
I’m inspired! As a fellow engineer I’m looking into a prodigy for my first 2011 because I want to tinker and research and upgrade! This is such a beautiful resource you shared with everyone. Is there a set of files and stones you recommend buying as well as any tools you used here?
Hello fellow engineer! I am glad you enjoy the content.
I use the little gunsmithing file set from Otis. Wheeler and other makes them too. A nice flat, fine file is also helpful. I spend a little more money on these ($30-40 per file).
I use a variety of stones. Most are cheap ones from Amazon. But the fine ceramic one I use is from Brownell's - a bit more spendy but you need one with nice sharp corners for hammer hooks. Brownell's is a great resource for all sorts of gunsmithing tools.
Some good places to start:
www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Engineering-Professional-Gunsmithing-File/dp/B01B3NW53M/ref=sr_1_5?crid=M4NALD4X1N46&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Yrn3Pt6WDfqkOVaSWD0uAI3CaEKt2GjbQkq8gnNlyMD9YaTd4T3KeEQ4AArcZcB2-9RkoiloIZo_dMPWTv7LH3-8-ZRTmr_Nyd38a3bMVMbf1qY3lyN_8ZcXqS66TOc0Bluk0NUy2wp_COBJE5EIeEs3HQ0BqUOR1nHKSEY7yCEESgGeeivhMDDmmNpGM-GvvsTnDD85vTl2QP5OBgEDlVUp5j-cQaK3MejaiUIld01yP6fZIMEtRX8t3MqZrsNGV70jHryxHUBSX8SdusP9Z7psHTP4di3UiQeiorsq8DYZQRZ1XOLMPHGhA34su3Vrq31Gc7Y10MZFblPmPP4LaimBVbdBrJQqQCwKC2k4IQB5evK6mhMTT2edwZ8USSwakifT5MbL9ydnC8DIkedocdQCEieeH8NekrHToZb_XD2buA-hVeL5Z-huIJFxa3IJ.A1Hf6rv-mw4NxemQXyQ7I-4zV7Y4uFX9W2m99RrQEEc&dib_tag=se&keywords=gunsmithing+files&qid=1734823224&sprefix=gunsmithing+file%2Caps%2C194&sr=8-5
www.amazon.com/CHEERBRIGHT-Whetstone-Sharpening-Polishing-Variety/dp/B0796T3CT7/ref=sr_1_9?crid=1FDUSV0587DSL&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.BgyP0r6ZW2QmCcf16wFKunXR2jgo2bc96phIBRxAWhuaWhfXl1N2_5s4W0w9OXbcTSFS_gqTmLt360zIpPgYq4xJffkrq2GCcdKaDYPh7RjKaW3sobjO_KJfzuOOZ2zjD6XOpHdpT2DYj32r5DdBE7X90pMH3luIv1_LUT5TyE2gCqLFP8NrOUK01GFstfL45fovU9quI2-X0k3ip6s3ONiR7i3r0V1vVeel5LAUaEPmLK30qnsj4AJFTyBa6suciC-A1LPsIlSiy9fEWGGQPSKFlrefehuTdS1pNasVntMAP9Xclc2oL2qZFOSM61t55gtdMNpmUukVjZwP7eWrueiBoftAfGnwPSILd3aJyapumcYljovqmmyKfgyH-2-50i7r5cr_Lff_iNeXH_TvrtLBI_KcPWaOGgC4hvGnxuOFB5Nmti9jNRH3A1BXA-9p.ZsJpoeInSzgKDH4wo3Rg6U0QPTwQ7bXngL3hdz3aIKI&dib_tag=se&keywords=india+stones&qid=1734823390&sprefix=india+stone%2Caps%2C206&sr=8-9
www.amazon.com/CBRIGHT-Sharpening-Precision-Grinding-5-9x0-47x0-24Inch/dp/B0796RZL4N/ref=sr_1_8?crid=1FDUSV0587DSL&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.BgyP0r6ZW2QmCcf16wFKunXR2jgo2bc96phIBRxAWhuaWhfXl1N2_5s4W0w9OXbcTSFS_gqTmLt360zIpPgYq4xJffkrq2GCcdKaDYPh7RjKaW3sobjO_KJfzuOOZ2zjD6XOpHdpT2DYj32r5DdBE7X90pMH3luIv1_LUT5TyE2gCqLFP8NrOUK01GFstfL45fovU9quI2-X0k3ip6s3ONiR7i3r0V1vVeel5LAUaEPmLK30qnsj4AJFTyBa6suciC-A1LPsIlSiy9fEWGGQPSKFlrefehuTdS1pNasVntMAP9Xclc2oL2qZFOSM61t55gtdMNpmUukVjZwP7eWrueiBoftAfGnwPSILd3aJyapumcYljovqmmyKfgyH-2-50i7r5cr_Lff_iNeXH_TvrtLBI_KcPWaOGgC4hvGnxuOFB5Nmti9jNRH3A1BXA-9p.ZsJpoeInSzgKDH4wo3Rg6U0QPTwQ7bXngL3hdz3aIKI&dib_tag=se&keywords=india+stones&qid=1734823390&sprefix=india+stone%2Caps%2C206&sr=8-8
@ thank you so much!
Great video. I literally did every single thing you did the day I bought mine and never had a single issue. Only thing I did additional was polished the hammer face and smoothed out the radius on the hammer where it interfaces with the disconnector rail
Thanks! I appreciate it. Ah yes the hammer face. I was sure I was going to miss something. Although this one was reliable out of the box when I first shot it, the performance was very mediocre, and this work made it shoot so much nicer!
Most amazing Prodigy cleaning vid. On OPP's, I would only stilck to 2000 grit.
Solid work. Thank you for how thorough this is.
Glad you enjoyed. Thanks for watching and commenting!
By far the best video I’ve seen describing the issues and remedies for the prodigy. Much appreciated sir
Excellent video, Thank you for making it and the time you invested for us.
What a comprehensive video! Great job.
awsome video. hits all of the points that are concerns with the prodigy. i own 4.25 ported and a regular 4.25 . the newer 4.25 ported had no issues at all. thanks for the great video!
The first pistols were rough. They pretty quickly got their manufacturing, tolerancing, and QC figured out. They are cranking out some solid "budget" 2011's now!
You can tell you’re a mechanical engineer by your observations and fixes. Great narration.
I appreciate that man! My engineering background enhances by understanding of, and appreciation for these amazing mechanical systems we call firearms.
Can you do a video for the upgrade process on your tisas?
Eh not really at this point. I sold the gun. Upgrades are done, not going to buy another to show the process. Its pretty much the same as this honestly. Its a modular doublestack 1911 with 70 series internals. Only difference being a bushing barrel. I posted quite a few videos on that Tisas as I did upgrades to it. If there is a specific question you have that is not covered in those videos Im happy to answer it.
I’ve had mine for almost a year and haven’t had one problem. Love it. I own the staccato p too. But man the prodigy is a great 2011.
Bro your a life saver I just need someone to show exactly how that sheer spring set for the hammer lock
Excellent, thank you for sharing. I'm picking mine today. 5"and for competition purposes. Thanks again.
Going to be a great starting point for a competition pistol! Enjoy! Thanks for watching and commenting.
Hey man, absolutely amazing video. I’ll most definitely be rewatching this 100 times over but the main reason I am here is because I just bought the 5” haven’t even gotten to shoot it yet… I take it out of the box and the left side thumb safety basically just fell off so I take it apart see how it fits and it fits pretty snug so I clean it all up ( not to your spec that’s for sure ) out everything back together and start flicking the safety a bunch. I start to see it coming out again. I’m wrong handed so the more pressure I put on the right side of the safety it ends up driving the left side out and shoot that spring around… thankfully I found it lol but I’ve taken to gun smiths one said send it back to Springfield the other said the milling on the safety isn’t done properly or isn’t there at all. The prodigy gods pointed towards you, what’s your thought in this ?
Thank you !! You’ll definitely be my go channel from now on!!
Appreciate your kind words. I hope you continue to find the video helpful as you work with your Prodigy.
The left side thumb safety should only come out in one specific position and that is between the on and off safe positions. This is intentional as the gun is either off safe or on safe, and only briefly passes the position it can come out as you sweep it on or off. I would try taking the spring plunger out (so you're not fighting it), then take the right side safety out (rotate it up then pull out once the left side one is out). Then only install the left side safety. put it all the way down and see if it comes out, all the way up and see if it can come out - it should not in either position.
I took a picture of mine and uploaded it to my reddit account. There is a little ridge that I drew an arrow pointing too. I bet your safety is missing it. That is what holds the safety in the frame in both the on safe and off safe position.
www.reddit.com/user/rrppdd4/comments/1gz9t1f/1911_safety_detail/
Likely the left side thumb safety is the cause. The hole in the frame needs to be a specific shape though as well so if that wasn't machined properly that could cause it too (seems less likely to me).
The left and right side safety should fit together snugly in the center. This video shows how to tighten it up (00:28 - 01:15): th-cam.com/video/ZYghQPO8w1E/w-d-xo.html
However even if they join together loosely with the tongue and groove in the center - that would not cause the left side one to come out.
Let me know what you figure out. it should likely go back to Springfield either way. If the thumb safety is the cause, and you plan on replacing it then maybe not. If the thumb safety is the cause, you need a new one.
@@EngineersArmory you’re amazing dude thank you. Seriously.
I’m 99.9 % I found the issue. So I watched the atlas video you referred and I saw when he fits the safety together to check fitment I see that the male and female are flush so I fit mine together and see the male is too long by and 1/8 inch so I do more investigating and find that any pressure on either side will eventually wiggle it out since it doesn’t finish flush. I hope I explained that correctly I’d send you a picture but i can’t here.
So now my question is, should I mill out that 1/8 on the female ? Or just get a whole new safety, I was only avoiding sending it to springfield because I heard of the turn around times are either good or horrible, but if this is an easy fix I’m more then willing to do it
Again, you’re amazing thank you so much
@@stitch8786 I think I understand what you're saying. What is easier than making the female groove deeper - is make the male tang shorter haha. Also if they do not fit all the way together, that means the left side safety will never actually engage all the way into the frame and be captured properly. the big flat part of the safety (perpendicular to where you rest your thumb) should be flush up against the frame.
Do the test I outlined in my last reply. right side safety out, spring and plunger for left side safety removed, can you install the left side safety all the way? can you only install and pull it out half way between engaged and disengaged? can you pull it out when fully up or down? if it works properly without the right side safety installed, that means the interface between the two safety halves is causing your problem - likely they dont fit all the way together.
@ yes sir. 100% it’s the interface, I did the test you explained and it worked as you described, only come out when it’s in that middle spot.
If my brain is working correctly even if i shorten the male would it be too slim for the frame ? If that’s the case I just need a new safety
@stitch8786 measure the frame width. Measure the width between the left and right side safety when they are put together. You will either need to shorten the tip of the male side, or the two tips of the female side.
Is there a set of hones you would recommend? And where is a good source? Great video, I can’t wait to tear into my new prodigy.
Brownells has a great selection of gunsmithing tools. I got my fine ceramic stone through them. The others I bough on amazon. It's important to have a higher quality stone for finishing, the stones leading up to that one can be cheaper. Keep in mind this is just what has been working for me - there are many other possibilities so some research is helpful. I also use lots of wet sanding paper from 400-2000 grit - having a variety helps.
Here are some links:
I use these for roughing in surfaces - they are very soft so get some honing solution. The 80-1000 grit set is nice for general use.
www.amazon.com/CHEERBRIGHT-7pcs-Whetstone-Stone-Sharpening/dp/B0796RZL4N/ref=sr_1_16?crid=INKAR7LSC7AG&keywords=india%2Bstone&qid=1683730151&sprefix=india%2Bston%2Caps%2C144&sr=8-16&th=1
Honing solution:
www.amazon.com/Smiths-HON1-4OZ-HON1-4oz-Honing-Solution/dp/B0013AXUOY/ref=sr_1_4?crid=PSXI2SQLKN6C&keywords=honing+solution&qid=1683730486&sprefix=honing+solutio%2Caps%2C153&sr=8-4
These are used for the next step - they are harder and finer and come in very handy shapes (the ruby stone):
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0796T3CT7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
Here is the fine, hard and sharp edged stone I use for final polishing work:
www.brownells.com/tools-cleaning/paint-metal-prep/abrasives-polishing/6-x-12-x-12-ceramic-stones/
Hope this helps! Thanks for watching and happy tinkering!
Awesome video! Thanks for all the help! Gun is so smooth. Very informative and I’m sure you’ll see it for some upgrades soon!
Of course Buddy! It was my pleasure! Very fun project and glad I could get a video out.
This is a great video for the Prodigy! I love knowing how my firearms work. Will defiantly help if I run into problems, and also gives me a great idea of some of the parts i'm going to replace.
Thanks for the kind words. I'm glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching and cpmmenting!
Great video. A lot of techniques and tools that will help me.
I hope your efforts are successful! Thanks for watching and commenting.
Very good video. Would like to see a video on the Girsan.
@Engineer’sArmory
Great video. Have you looked into making a Marvel cut on the slide?
I considered that. In my experience with 1911/2011 pisols ite never been necessary for proper and very smooth disconnector operation.
I have heard its also not recommended on calibers other than 45 acp because they have a narrower disconnector rail. I cannot confirm that. I should know that with how many of these I have looked at.
Just used some gun oil and cycled the crap out of the slide and at the back of the slide I just kept wiping off the oil until it was pretty clean
That works! Whatever gets it done.
Just came across your video. Looks like you put the recoil spring on backwards. Open end of that spring should be towards the muzzle.....otherwise, good video.
Good eye. I know thats the "correct" way to install it. But honestly I have never paid much attention to it during install and it's never caused me problem. I have ran some aftermarket springs with two open ends.
Thanks for the link to this video! Exactly what I was looking for and very informative! I'll be referring to it again when I pick up the Mac 9 next week. It will be a few weeks before I will be home again and able to get too far into it.
I'm new to the DS Prodigy, but not to 1911s. This is a great video. Thanks for posting it. I disagree with polishing rails and loosening slide to frame fit. In 1911s, tight fit will contribute to accuracy. Also (and it may be a myth) I heard that polishing compound can get embedded in steel surfaces - even after cleaning them, t will accelerate subsequent wear between surfaces.
Thanks for watching and commenting! Regarding the slide lapping - I was mainly taking off the extra thickness put on by the Cerakote finish. The slide felt quite gummy out of the box even with fresh oil on it. Cerakote goes on thin but still adds thickness - was just wanting to get that knocked down so the slide and frame can wear into each other. Nothing that wouldn't happen in 500 or so rounds. Slide lapping and polishing can open up tolerances but with very fine media I would guess it would be very minor if at all. I am not an expert in 1911 stuff but I think lapping slides to frame is a normal process for slide to frame fit? Also, if I happen to open up slide to frame fit .0005" it doesn't matter much on a gun of this fit, price, and mass produced numbers.
I wouldn't expect any polishing compound media to get imbedded in the metal of the slide or frame as lapping doesn't occur with any lateral force pressing the metals together with the lapping compound in between. But certainly with either diamond or AlO2 media being harder than the steel I could see how that could happen with enough contact force - likely not a concern in this application.
As far as I know (again no expert on this platform) but accuracy comes from the barrel-to-slide fit at the front (or barrel-to-barrel bushing if its not a bull barrel), and where the chamber area and locking lugs lock up into the slide (which can also be affected by the barrel link and barrel link legs). I would think the slide to frame fit would have to be VERY loose to affect accuracy if you had a good lockup at the front and rear or the barrel.
Shot two of these, and honestly they are amazing shooters. I don't shoot irons, and even with irons the gun was so easy to get hits with.
PS. Aquired a Prodigy, and in some ways it's great and in some ways it's a pain in the ass. The main issue I am fighting, is the disconnector still wanting to snag (barely), and the disconnector being sticky in the channel (lots of cerakote). I removed the cerakote in the channel, and switched to an EGW disconnector, but the EGW disconnecter still occasionally wanted to hang up in the channel...it's not as bad as when the cerakote was there, but it's still concerning. Reason I'm focused on this, is because the gun WILL suffer from hammer follow in its current configuration if the disconnector gets gummy enough to stick in the down position. Of course, I can just tweak the sear spring again, and likely go back to a 5lb trigger, but I'm hoping to find a solution at the 3-3.5lb trigger pull I managed to get. I will likely swap to EGW internals, but I wanted to give the gun a chance with stock internals (I've only had it suffer from hammer follow 2 times in 650~rds. I'm just not trying to have a gun that needs to be cleaned every 200rds or else it risks going full auto.
I wish this guy was my buddy.He is very intelligent and detailed. Thank you for the video!
Totally agree that this is great gun if you enjoy working on and have the ability to work on 2011s. If your that person at this price this gun is a no brainer.
100%. Buy it if you want a tinkering project. I just bought an optics ready CZ Shadow 2 for $1200. I think these are going for around $1450 right now... The Shadow 2 blows this out of the water. The Prodigy is not even close to the level of reliability or performance of the Shadow 2 and it cost $250 more. Its pretty sad.
@@EngineersArmory I have a shadow also but there’s something special and more rewarding when you build it yourself
@@TheHonarable1 I agree! Thats why I immediately started modifying my Shadow 2 haha. Its a monster now. Video will be coming soon actually.
@@EngineersArmory 🤣🤣🤣 there’s something wrong with us just can’t leave we’ll enough alone lol. Looking forward to new vid !
@@TheHonarable1 Haha no way! We got to keep ourselves out of trouble!
This video was incredibly helpful for tuning my 5” Prodigy, and each step was essential in taking the pistol to a better level; although it never gave me any problems, it's now much smoother. My main use is for USPSA competitions, and I incorporated many of the recommendations you expertly described in your video. Additional upgrades I made included installing the A14B plate, the Holosun 507 Comp sight, a magwell, the EGW ignition kit (excellent), the Atlas Flat X trigger, and a 9lb Wolff recoil spring. The issue I’m experiencing is that with some of the 20-round magazines, the pistol locks open with one round left in the magazine, and I haven’t found a reliable solution for this issue. What would you suggest?
I'm glad the video was helpful! Sounds like you got your Prodigy dialed in.
Check the mags in question first. I would inspect the follower closely. Compare them to mags that are reliable. Load each with one round and see if you can see a difference. Maybe feed lip geometry allows one follower to sit higher? Maybe worn magazine springs? Try other mags - atlas, checkmate, staccato, etc. See if any of them have an issue.
I have never had this issue on a 1911 but I have on other pistols. Slide lockback with the slide stop before the mag is empty. It happened on pistols when I put a suppressor on them. I think the Extra back pressure and Higher slide velocity made the slide smack the rear of its travel so hard it jarred the gun enough for the slide stop to flop around into the up position. Try stiffer recoil springs. If your recoil spring has 5000+ rounds thru it, replace it and see if the problem persists.
This is probably a last resort and I wouldnt recommend it. On a 1911 there is a plunger contacting the back of the slide stop. It puts a little force on that slide stop. Check that out. You may also be able to use a dremel with a grinding bit to put a tiny dimple in the back of the slide stop where the plunger contacts. Similar to the simple on the thumb safety the plunger goes into in the off safe position. Not that deep of a dimple tho. Too much and it may prevent slide lockback all together.
That's just what popped into my mind. Again, never had that issue on a 1911. But maybe checking those things will give you a starting point. I'd like to hear what the fix was when you figure it out!
@@EngineersArmory thanks again, some things to add : magazines are brand new and the gun has less than 1.000 rounds. I ordered followers and springs to test before modifying the slide stop. Will let you know.
Excellent, This checklist can apply to every gun you own with obvious procedural changes. Get the schematic and trace down all the friction and reciprocating mass points. The key is to clean and ***INSPECT***.
Yep pretty much. I've refined this list and added to it for all 1911/2011 platform pistols and made a reference document for myself that includes a full trigger job for whatever weight I desire with instructions and measurements for hammer hooks and sear angles, etc.
More broadly for all guns, out of the box, clean, inspect, lube, shoot 200 rounds minimum. See where wear shows up and polish those interfaces is how I approach it.
Picked up the 5 inch model a couple weeks ago. Sofar no issues but only put 400 rounds through it. My slide to frame has just a touch of play, which I assume is from the cerakote wearing off. No grit that I can feel in my trigger but definitely isn't as nice as my dan wesson specialist.
Glad to hear it has been reliable for you. I have since got my hands on a newer production Prodigy and it felt a lot nicer that this one that I worked on. With some tuning of the sear spring and adjustment of the trigger overtravel, the trigger action turned out pretty good.
The cerekote is what makes it feel rough. Once it’s worn in, its way smoother.
Yeah i fucking hate cerakote. Decorative? fine... on any functional surface of a firearm? nope.
Exceptional video, thank you, I learned a great deal.
I am glad! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Correcting all of the flaws on the DS Prodigy, makes the Staccato a great alternative.
Agreed. Unless you like tinkering, then this gun is a good option, makes for a fun little project. I've also calculated the cost of all the upgrades I would do to the pistol if it were mine and it came out to about $2100 total including the price of the gun (labor not included). If you dont wantna project, just save a few hundred more and get a Staccato P haha.
Great video and details, thank you.
Thank you! I am glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Wow say through the whole video. Great video and very informative. You r good!!!
Super good video!
Awesome video thanks for doing this
My pleasure. Hope it's helpful and thanks for watching and commenting!
@@EngineersArmory absolutely, wanting one for EDC/Duty. I’m a certified Glock Armorer not that means much for my agency but a vast majority of the cleaning up you did and finishing work is not problem.
Great video, with all the time that you spent polishing/cleaning up burs and flashing, I'm surprised you didn't clean up the witness mark from the screw on the extractor. Definitely gives me things to look at when I pick mine up next Monday.
Thanks for watching! The extractor? That little guy? I touched it up with sharpie!
@@EngineersArmory it looked like it left a burr, guess not.
@@nokones788 oh no, it just put a little ding in the black finish is all.
Mine did that but played with slide before I went to range no issues my buddy gun smith and we saw that a lot of issues people was having cause of the coating
The Cerakote was sticky for sure. I do not like cerkote on guns in general - decoratively on a handguard or something... whatever. But when its on a functional part where tolerances and dimensions are critical it's awful.
GREAT video, thanks so much for all the info.
Freakin’ PROPER work. 🔥
Thanks mate! Elbow grease ftw.
Looks like a lot of issues for prodigy. I have seen a lot of videos where slide won't go in battery and failure to eject...bummer...I was going to get this gun..but I guess I have to go with Wilson combat next
This is a very early production one. I think the current production ones are better. I've had my hands on one and it sure felt better. It is a shame the amount of performance you get for the price though. I still think at current prices (~$1299) they aren't worth the money.
Where did you get those stones, grit paste, and such. If you had it in an affiliate link, I'd definitely pick them up.
No affiliate link - I'm not cool enough to get paid to do this. There is a comment buried in a reply with this info but its hard to find so I'll repost it here:
Here are some links:
I use these for roughing in surfaces - they are very soft so get some honing solution. The 80-1000 grit set is nice for general use.
www.amazon.com/CHEERBRIGHT-7pcs-Whetstone-Stone-Sharpening/dp/B0796RZL4N/ref=sr_1_16?crid=INKAR7LSC7AG&keywords=india%2Bstone&qid=1683730151&sprefix=india%2Bston%2Caps%2C144&sr=8-16&th=1
Honing solution:
www.amazon.com/Smiths-HON1-4OZ-HON1-4oz-Honing-Solution/dp/B0013AXUOY/ref=sr_1_4?crid=PSXI2SQLKN6C&keywords=honing+solution&qid=1683730486&sprefix=honing+solutio%2Caps%2C153&sr=8-4
These are used for the next step - they are harder and finer and come in very handy shapes (the ruby stone):
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0796T3CT7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
Here is the fine, hard and sharp edged stone I use for final polishing work:
www.brownells.com/tools-cleaning/paint-metal-prep/abrasives-polishing/6-x-12-x-12-ceramic-stones/
@@EngineersArmory I appreciate you going out of your way to help me out and for the free knowledge. I hope to be able to repay you someday.
@@shart. payment not necessary. Happy to help out! thanks for watching and commenting!
Ausum never to old to learn something new.
Where did you get your ceramic stones?
I got the really fine square one from Brownell's. All the others I found on amazon.
Excellent video
Thx! Great job.
Great video, thank you!
what polishing blocks did you use?
The larger ceramic one was from Brownell's. I got the other stones from Amazon.
What grit stone are you using ?
I use an assortment from the equivalent of 1000 grit up to about 3000 grit (that is the really hard ceramic stone for polishing).
I don’t know. I picked up a RIA Pro Match DS FS HC and it functions perfect at $1000… for $1500 it should at least feed and run reliably.
Agreed. I think Springfield has fixed a lot of the issues on the newer production models and the price has dropped a few hundred making them a better value.
I really wanted this to be my next firearm but I keep running across videos like this. I feel like I heard they did some shadow updates to their production of these, but I dont know that for sure.
This one was pretty early production. Was rough but still functioned fine. I have gotten my hands on a newer production and it felt better. I don't think "shadow updates" is quite right although I understand what you mean by that. I think they have just better dialed in their manufacturing and tolerances on parts. I would say it's more of a safe bet to buy one now. The 4.25" version had less issues and I feel that slide length is better suited to the 9mm cartridge anyways.
Great video!
Great video you definately know what you are talking about
Great video, but you left out one more person who this gun is for. It’s for the person who understands its limitations and issues but is willing to keep sending it back to SFA until it’s fixed.
I bought mine about 2 months ago. I went into it understanding that I would probably have to send it back to SFA for a warranty repair at least once. Sure enough after about 300 rounds I was having failure to feed and weak extraction issues so I sent it back and they are working on it now.
I love the way it shoots and I have the patience to let SFA fix it.
This video is GREATNESS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 🙂
So I wouldn't be able to do all of this myself. What would be a round about price for that much work??
Not gospel. Just a guess...??
4-6 hours multiplied by whatever the gunsmith hourly rate is would be my guess. Gunsmith rates can vary widely so I cant really give you a dollar figure there.
What stones are you using?
Ones from amazon and brownells. I recently posted a video on polishing on my channel. There is links to everything I use in the description of that video. Check that out if you want specifics.
Stock guide rod is trash. Mine broke before even 100 rounds block the upgraded one from thunder Mountain and have no problems since.
Wow wild, I havent heard of one breaking. If it were my gun I would have replaced it just for ease of disassembly.
I really wish you showed how you polished these parts and what you used....rather i wish you had made this more beginner friendly lol it's not your fault I'm a starting idiot
That being said I've learned more about pistols than ANYTHING I've ever watched or read. Thank You!!!!
Damn video would have been 3 hours long. I use medium, fine, and super fine stones, fine sand paper, small files, dremel with various sanding and polishing pads. If you look thru some of my other videos I show how I dress up a sear face and polish various parts in pistols and rifle trigger groups.
@@EngineersArmory Thank you so much. You've actually inspired me to just buy a Staccato with a Holosun, two mags and a holster. What sold me was you mentioning the internals being of higher quality. So it's twice as much but way more worth it imo. Also did more research and the Hex Dragonfly is dog shit. So the Staccato coming with a Holosun and two high quality mags and a nice holster makes up for the price difference. I'll just have to save up a bit but it's totally worth it imo
@@ElHombreGato the prodigy is a great place to start If you want to upgrade it yourself. If you just want a super solid, good to go 2011 out of the box, the Staccato is the way to go! And yes the Hex optics are dog shit hahaha. Glad the video was helpful. Thanks for watching and commenting!
1500 project gun, now i feel stupid for putting one on layaway, should have bought the new kimber double stack :(
A bit crazy isn't it? They have come down in price and I have gotten my hands on a newer production model and it's a lot better. But they beta tested the pistol on customers unfortunately. That new Kimber double stack is sweet. Why I would still prefer this personally is the compatibility with the (increasingly popular) 2011 platform. The Kimber looks like it has many proprietary parts which would limit how much I could modify it, and less options for magazines. But I like to modify my guns. I bet out of the box the Kimber would be a lot nicer and a better option if you had no plans to modify it. Thanks for watching!
I just bought a prodigy yesterday lol!
Got my subscribe !
Dam good video!
I appreciate it! Thanks for watching and commenting!
My slide is getting hung up on the disconnector. Assuming yo recommend polishing it.
In the video description: "disconnector hang up (addressed with work at 11:18, 28:14, and 39:01)."
It’s cerokote keep playing with slide of clean it and that’ll stop I have a 5” and no issues with about 300 round going to shoot again tomorrow just cleaned it
@37:26 Hilton Yam will appreciate this fix ;) y'all 10-8'rs know what I mean...
🙌🏻
Genius: The Mounting Screw Its Not Long, you don't even have to cut it... You just have to turn it on its side.
It happens that one side has longer screws than the other.
and they say you cant polish MIM... proved em wrong
Yeah sometimes they just take a little longer to clean up due to mold parting lines and flashing. No biggie. They clean up just fine!
@dltz i need to get some stones, i have files but those will take WWAAAYYY too much off. Id rather polish the MIM first. Even doing a monthly IDPA I'll probably never outshoot the MIM parts. And since Im looking to transition this into a carry piece to replace my 1911 Operator 45 I EDC (which is alot heavier lol) I dont want to drop the trigger pull thst much either so win win
@@EngineMedic7 having a good set of stones is key. The MIM parts in the prodigy are high quality. I doubt many people would ever get high enough round count to experience issues with them. I would be worried about the longevity and reliability of a really light trigger... like sub 2.5#. But other than that no issues. They clean up nice and you should be able to get whatever kind of trigger you want within reason.
On some areas of MIM parts if they got a nasty parting seam or something I'll even start with a fine file. Of course not on a sear face or hammer hooks. The critical surfaces on the ignition parts were fine. Easy to clean up. Dense metal, no seams or flashing.
Fking cracked. Thank you
Save up and just buy a Stuccato. I had a Prodigy. Not reliable and I wouldn’t waste my time or money. I bought a Stuccato and it’s 100% out of box.
The prodigy is a good gun if you want to tinker and can fix it up yourself. Generally yes, go with Staccato for better performance and reliability. The earlier prodigy pistols had more issues than current production ones.
My Prodigy is 100%. 2024 make.
Could it not be that at the end of the novel you want to return the weapon and in Springfield they refused to accept it due to changes in specifications and tolerances, scratches and "massive destruction" ?
Not quite sure what you mean by this comment. I don't think any of the work shown here would void the warranty but I cant be sure of that so I wont say for sure. In general, if the gun does not function properly when purchased it should go back to the manufacturer for repair. Some people may want to work on their own gun to see how they can improve it without the hassle of returning it to Springfield. Or maybe it is operating fine just like this one was, but they want to improve the function and make it smoother.
Genius... the extraction problem is the bad bullets with aluminum casings.
I've never had extraction issues with aluminum cases personally. Way more issues with steel case. I have shot thousands of rounds of this Al case ammo and it's generally been good. Certainly the optic plate mounting screw binding on the extractor would be a bigger issue to fix first.
I dunno, couple hundred thousand sold and maybe 20 or 30 videos with people having issues doesn't sound like much. I haven't had any out of my 5in. I did wait several months as gun companies seem to beta test on their customers. Lol😂
This one was 100% functional right out of the box. But there was tons of room for improvement. The fit and finish were pretty bad, and things like the disconnector hanging up are some simple fitting that I would expect to be done for a ~$1500 price point.
@@EngineersArmory yeah mine is very tight. I could feel the disconnector but after a couple hundred rounds it's worn in. People don't understand that even a Smith and Wesson 1911 from performance center is over 2k. They hand fit parts. 😂
Toot toot
Gunsmiting as a hobby. Thats a red flag.
What do you mean by that? I mean... It sure is expensive haha.
Making stupid amateur comments. That's a red flag.
Magician... Do you want me to believe the story that with a screwdriver, an old hammer and a sheet of out-of-use sandpaper and without precision measuring instruments... you can improve the performance of a factory-new gun ?
Haha alright I'm gonna stop replying to your comments now. Cheers bud. Thanks for watching!
Dude can I send you my prodigy lmao
34:51 The grip safety's dumb just delete it
It was not on John Browning's original design and there have been 1911s made without it
I disagree. And that's fine.
@@EngineersArmory really Atlas deleted it I think it's ugly as hell I'm going to pin mine there's really no point for it you shouldn't drop safety until you're ready to fire in my opinion
@@X-ForceBro I leave em. They never bothered me. Thats fine if you like to get rid of them. The gun aint drop safe anyways without a firing pin safety block haha.
@@EngineersArmory agreed I would only use a 1911 as a range toy anyway I suppose,
Hey have you ever thought about playing some kind of layout compound on the seer and hammer to track where and see if it's perfectly even just the thought I was having?
🫡
This gun hasn't given anyone any problems... the problem is your clever tricks: Springfield Prodigy 1911DS | An In-Depth Look th-cam.com/video/PXbjTBexMkk/w-d-xo.html
It is, and always has been an unreliable turd.
Buyer beware….
Buy a RIA or Staccato. You will only have to buy once….
Do u own one? Did u run out and buy the first batches 😐…guns coming out the box running now and folks who putting egw kits n them out shooting them overpriced 2011’ off the stock weigh alone paired wit the upgrades and they laughing last and loud…I speak cus I own a later production model because I wasn’t thirsty to buy the first batch which I don’t do with any man made item 🤷🏾♂️
I have had nothing but problems with that ammo. It’s the cheapest on the market and defenetly not a fair round for your testing
I am sorry to hear that had been your experience with the ammo. It is not quite the cheapest out there. However, I have had no problems with it in the 3000+ rounds I have shot with it. Therefor I deemed it acceptable for my testing purposes, and it showed me what I needed to see about the operation of this firearm to begin work on it. Feel free to test with whatever ammo you like and have good experience with. You may personally deem my testing unreliable based on experience with that specific ammo. The application of this testing to a broader audience who doesn't have the same experiences as you may still be acceptable. I am just one dude, testing a sample of one gun, with one type of ammo so I would hope people wouldn't take what I am presenting as the absolute truth about the nature of this firearm or the ammo.
Thanks for watching and commenting!