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Only a couple hundred rounds thru it. No change. Planning on making an update video when it gets to 1000. Havent been shooting it much.

14:38. I explain why I didn't add high visibility sights.

You definitely get what you pay for with 1911s. Generally its best to pay more up front to get a better fit gun. I bought this gun knowing the slide to frame fit would be shit haha.

Very interesting idea I didn't think about! I wouldnt recommend plating with copper, that is a soft, gummy metal that does not work well for applications where abrasion resistance is key. I have seen bronze brazed onto hydraulic cylinder pistons as the wear surface instead of composite wear rings. Those reciprocate much much slower though. I have played with electroless Nickel plating. That is a hard, abrasion resistant coating. However it would be hard to build up enough thickness to replace the anodizing that was milled off and then some to take up clearances. I think it would be feasible to machine off the anodizing, then get a skilled welder to add aluminum material to the rail surface to be machined back.

@@EngineersArmory Copper alloys is the most popular bearing materials out there like brass or bronze. And bullets have a pure copper jacket that is a bearing material used at really high speed against the inside of the steel barrel when the bullet is fired. And even better the copper will wear before the steel rails in the slide. So when the plating eventually wears away you can just re-plate it while the slide rails is still good as new. If the frame is made from high a strength aluminium alloy like 7075 it is not possible to weld. And unlike plating you can not finely control a weld's thickness so you will have to machine the rails back in after welding, while with plating you can just plate it in multiple steps until you get the desired thickness without having to do any machining after.

@@titter3648 I am aware copper alloys are used for lots of bearing surfaces. I disagree that it is appropriate to use in the application of pistol frame rails. Generally alloy friction bearings in high speed/cycle applications are hydrodynamic and ride on a thin film of pressurized oil. The example of a bullet is not very applicable here - it gets fired once and it has done its job, it is not cycled. Its more to seal the bore so the expanding gas can propel the bullet, and protect the soft lead core from coming apart. (of course there are hard cast lead bullets that dont require a jacket). Certainly feasible to plate the rails with a copper alloy, but I would imagine it would wear very quickly and need re-plated. I would be really curios to see how many rounds it would take before the clearances opened back up though... Properly fit, uniform slide and frame rail interfaces, steel, or anodized aluminum will last a long time, ,thousands of rounds. Another problem with electroplating is charge concentration at sharp corners and discontinuities (like on the frame rail) - they would have uneven deposited thickness around the corners. Thats why I mentioned electroless plating - it is catalyzed by heat and deposits on whatever geometry the part is evenly. Right, most pistol frames are 7075, which cant be welded by conventional means - i forgot that. I still think Accurails are the only feasible method for tightening clearances on aluminum frames (horizontal clearances could be tightened by slide squeezing).

I'm not on any other platforms. Not trying to make money or get into "consulting." I'm happy to answer questions in the comments here. Also I'm not an expert.

Thanks for watching and commenting!

Haha never been told I have the fitnessgram pacer test guy voice. That's a new one. Thank for watching, commenting and subscribing! I appreciate it.

Dawson precision gen 1 STI/Staccato mag well

I've seen em as low as $555 I think. I wish that's what I paid haha. Kinda a rip off at 750

Yes. I mention this at 06:24, 06:55, 07:49 - 08:21, 08:55 - 09:05, 10:36, and 12:37... What resets the sear into engagement with the hammer hooks is the left leaf/tang of the sear spring. A positive engagement keeps it pulled into engagement once there. A negative engagement would be likely to push the sear back out of engagement once there. I showed this with my 3D model in the video a couple times.

Dig thru the comments. I've responded to this request multiple times.

No sir. Just doing this for fun.

Not at all. The gen 1 magwell fits like a glove. Take the mainspring housing pin out, install the magwell (front goes on first, then pivot it back back over the rear of the grip/mainspring housing area), put the new longer mainspring housing pin in (that comes with the magwell).

@ thanks, brother. Been thinking about getting the gen 1 magwell.

@DesertTactical chyea dude, it's a nice magwell if you want a magwell.

Oh awesome. Glad to hear that! I figured the earlier guns (which mine was) would be rougher. Once they get manufacturing and QC dialed in for a specific line things usually improve. Maybe they took some customer feedback to heart which I always appreciate.

where did you buy it from? I just ordered mine from psa, Hoping mine is like yours lol.

@@kevinlane3312 top gun in Houston.

​@@mottomanicI ordered one from Smokey Mountain Guns and Ammo for 539.99

😂 scared me too

What do you mean by that? (What part is "this"?)

@ I’m not sure if you responded to the wrong person or I’m misunderstanding. I was curious if the underfolder style stock that they sell is compatible with the 556 version of their rifle? Thanks, and sorry for the confusion.

@@honkhonk1555 I dont know if it is. I bet the Zastava website would have that information (I'm guessing you mean the underfolder conversion kit).

@ yes sir, and I did a little more research and found out that it is compatible. Thanks for your understanding.

@honkhonk1555 cool! No problem.

The only difference is the color of cerakote, threaded barrel, and mag well. Wasnt interested in it.

Ah yeah the putty is a helpful tool for 1911s. I have since bought some gage pins and find the ones that fit the holes in the frame the best (it can vary slightly from frame to frame), then measure across the pins with micrometers and subtract half the diameter of each pin. This gives me a very good idea (accurate to maybe .0002") - and I can measure along the length of the pins to get an idea of parallelism. Easier on single stack 1911 frames that dont have the wider area for the doublestack grip module.

Cool thanks.

Yes it is a thick flange one. I have also installed a wilson combat full length commander guide rod. The only difference a spring plug would make is if the end of the plug is flush with the end of the thicker bushing or not. The plug will retail the barrel rushing properly regardless.

@ Ok perfect. I’ve already swapped the Prodigy grip, which feels 10x better. So I’m about to order the full length guide rod, 12 lb recoil spring to go with my 19lb main spring, and the Shok Buff kit. Can’t wait to see how it is! Eventually I’ll do the bushing, I just need to invest in some decent calipers first.

No issues so far. Only drawback of the LCI slides is the quick fouling of your optic lens... but wipe it off every 50 rounds haha.

Appreciate your kind words. I hope you continue to find the video helpful as you work with your Prodigy. The left side thumb safety should only come out in one specific position and that is between the on and off safe positions. This is intentional as the gun is either off safe or on safe, and only briefly passes the position it can come out as you sweep it on or off. I would try taking the spring plunger out (so you're not fighting it), then take the right side safety out (rotate it up then pull out once the left side one is out). Then only install the left side safety. put it all the way down and see if it comes out, all the way up and see if it can come out - it should not in either position. I took a picture of mine and uploaded it to my reddit account. There is a little ridge that I drew an arrow pointing too. I bet your safety is missing it. That is what holds the safety in the frame in both the on safe and off safe position. www.reddit.com/user/rrppdd4/comments/1gz9t1f/1911_safety_detail/ Likely the left side thumb safety is the cause. The hole in the frame needs to be a specific shape though as well so if that wasn't machined properly that could cause it too (seems less likely to me). The left and right side safety should fit together snugly in the center. This video shows how to tighten it up (00:28 - 01:15): th-cam.com/video/ZYghQPO8w1E/w-d-xo.html However even if they join together loosely with the tongue and groove in the center - that would not cause the left side one to come out. Let me know what you figure out. it should likely go back to Springfield either way. If the thumb safety is the cause, and you plan on replacing it then maybe not. If the thumb safety is the cause, you need a new one.

@@EngineersArmory you’re amazing dude thank you. Seriously. I’m 99.9 % I found the issue. So I watched the atlas video you referred and I saw when he fits the safety together to check fitment I see that the male and female are flush so I fit mine together and see the male is too long by and 1/8 inch so I do more investigating and find that any pressure on either side will eventually wiggle it out since it doesn’t finish flush. I hope I explained that correctly I’d send you a picture but i can’t here. So now my question is, should I mill out that 1/8 on the female ? Or just get a whole new safety, I was only avoiding sending it to springfield because I heard of the turn around times are either good or horrible, but if this is an easy fix I’m more then willing to do it Again, you’re amazing thank you so much

@@stitch8786 I think I understand what you're saying. What is easier than making the female groove deeper - is make the male tang shorter haha. Also if they do not fit all the way together, that means the left side safety will never actually engage all the way into the frame and be captured properly. the big flat part of the safety (perpendicular to where you rest your thumb) should be flush up against the frame. Do the test I outlined in my last reply. right side safety out, spring and plunger for left side safety removed, can you install the left side safety all the way? can you only install and pull it out half way between engaged and disengaged? can you pull it out when fully up or down? if it works properly without the right side safety installed, that means the interface between the two safety halves is causing your problem - likely they dont fit all the way together.

@ yes sir. 100% it’s the interface, I did the test you explained and it worked as you described, only come out when it’s in that middle spot. If my brain is working correctly even if i shorten the male would it be too slim for the frame ? If that’s the case I just need a new safety

@stitch8786 measure the frame width. Measure the width between the left and right side safety when they are put together. You will either need to shorten the tip of the male side, or the two tips of the female side.

I appreciate the kind words. I'm really standing on the shoulders of giants here with the information I am presenting.

hammer (main) spring weight has nothing to do with the ammo - that is more related to how heavy/light you want your trigger and how much margin you have on the primer strikes. 14# recoil spring was about right for my 115 and 124 grain range ammo. After I ported it, i dropped it down to a 13#.

@@EngineersArmorywhat hammer spring weight is reliable and lighter you recommend?

@@erice4611 I pretty much run 17# in all my 1911s now regardless of my desired trigger weight. never had a light primer strike and I always run extra power firing pin springs. But a big part of that is preference. There is a give and take trade off between sear spring adjustment and hammer spring weight. I prefer heavier take ups and more positive resets so I go a little lighter on my main spring.

agreed. They make the 4 slot frame for the MAC9. Why not use that for the Tisas DS carry? ridiculous.

For the grip safety (which i assuming is the radius you're asking about) its somewhere between .178 - .203". The frame radius is not even centered over the thumb safety pin hole. Seems Tisas did their own thing with the frames on these.

They definitely did their own thing.

The long one. I have large sized hands. Just about the right length for me.

@@EngineersArmory is the staccato trigger necessary to lighten up the trigger pull weight or just replace the hammer spring?

@@erice4611 No it is not necessary, I bought it because it gave me longer trigger reach and pretravel and overtravel adjustment. Reducing trigger pull weight is primarily reduced by a combination of main spring and sear spring tuning. Depending on your desired trigger weight and action only one or the other may be needed.