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damn near! i got large hands and this is a tiny ass gun haha.

Ones from amazon and brownells. I recently posted a video on polishing on my channel. There is links to everything I use in the description of that video. Check that out if you want specifics.

Too many fun projects!

Glad to hear it!

This is my Kimber. I'll make a video about it soon. Its very near and dear to me. The second pistol I ever bought when i was 21 or 22. My first 1911. I learned to tinker on 1911s with this gun. Its from 1998 when Kimber was made in Oregon. Its nothing special but Its a solid old 1911.

@@EngineersArmory Interesting! I'm looking forward to whatever video you do on it! Was it a gun that shipped with a Swartz safety? My first 1911 was an RIA gun that I bought as my highschool graduation gift to myself. I tinkered on that thing a fair bit, but ended up ditching it at some point in college. No regrets, but it was a good place to learn. Now it's all ancient Colts and modern Turkish 1911s for me, hahaha. As always, I appreciate your videos, and your info. I published that video on my modified G17 Gen 2 today, and I look forward to your G34 project too!

@@Paul_Whaley Standard 70 series internals on this one. What a dichotomy in your 1911 preferences hahaha😂😂

@@EngineersArmory It took me years and years to realize it, lol. From cheap Turkish guns up to a Wilson EDC X9 that I tested for our website, it took me a while to find what I like. What I like is the arched mainspring housing. I'm ready to be crucified now.

@@Paul_Whaley You like what you like buddy. Thats no ones business but yours! it seems like you have come by your preferences honestly as weird as they may be hahahah

It may be unavoidable with a forward sitting optic shroud, but here are some things to try. I had a similar issue on my Sig P320 M18. Check out this video. I go into detail about what fixed it: th-cam.com/video/naSinWRz5M0/w-d-xo.html Likely you can make slight modifications to the ejector face and get it fixed. Here are some detailed photos of the modifications: www.reddit.com/user/rrppdd4/comments/1brnix8/p320_ejector_mods/ Your recoil spring weight may be too heavy as well. Higher slide velocity (with a lighter recoil spring) will eject casings with more gusto and get them out of the way of your optic. Check that an optic mounting screw is not binding up your extractor spring and plunger as well. Hope this helps. let me know what fixed it if you get it remedied!

1911s are a different animal for sure. If you're used to Glocks or other Lego guns you may be in for a rude awakening when you start working on one of these. I remember when I first started working on 1911s it was so damn frustrating because I didn't know what was going on, I didn't understand the mechanics of the pistol, or how the components affect the system. The 1911 is this video was my first 1911 and i have been tinkering on it for 10 years. Its taken that long for me to feel really comfortable with this platform. However, every time I work on one of these I learn something new or learn a better way to do something. I'm going back thru this pistol right now because the trigger job I did last - about 5 years ago... was kind of shit. I can do it better now. In another 5 years i'll probably do it even better haha.

It's pretty obvious right?! I'm so surprised I didn't see anyone else do this yet. Sorry I just do this for fun. Not offering it as a service. If you have machining skills or can find a shop to do it for you I'm happy to provide my drawing.

Strictly a range toy. I dont compete.

Don't know. I didn't test.

I dont offer this as a service. I just do this for fun. There are plenty of places that offer porting service.

The old Romanians really didn't thread this barrel well. Not concentric at all. I am surprised I was able to cut the muzzle face and bring it back into alignment.

@@EngineersArmory Again - this is not a valid way to cut threads for a suppressor mount.

@@HalcyonDefense do you think what I am showing here is "cutting threads?" The threads are already cut. They were cut poorly. I am cutting the muzzle face to account for thread misalignment. Accurate language is important to me so I'm gonna be a sitckler about it. This is a risky way to correct for that misalignment, no doubt about that. I'm really surprised it worked myself. Not really encouraging people to do this, just showing one way it can be done outside of barrel replacement. That is the best option. However this rifle has about 1000 round thru it shooting suppressed since this. I am confident what I did provided a solid mount for my muzzle device and suppressor mounting interface. I think I mainly got lucky that the play between the threads and muzzle device was enough to account for the non-concentricity off the muzzle threads.

Oh yeah! It shoots like a 22! Haha

Huh that's interesting. Thanks for sharing. I've shot probably 400 rounds since this with different ammo types without a single failure. Did you install the reduced power firing pin spring that comes with the kit?

Hell yeah dude thats sick!

Really excited to start seeing reviews on it. Looks like a solid gun. I buy quite a bit of Fusion firearms parts, good price for the quality.

Dude I got so into the weeds about the port size when I was designing my porting layouts. The fluid mechanics of compressible supersonic flow is unbelievably complicated. This is also a very transient, continually changing problem as there is no steady state as gas is leaving the ports. What you're saying tracks. If im understanding you correctly. Smaller diameter ports would maintain higher pressure levels inside the barrel as the bullet passes the ports and they start releasing gas. That higher pressure level inside the barrel would also propell the gasses out at higher velocity. Once the gas leaves the port it will expand and be atmospheric pressure in a matter of milliseconds. I think maybe in my P-10 porting video I talked about this a little. Why I prioritized smaller ports. Energy of a moving body or substance is proportional to its mass and velocity squared. I therefor wanted to prioritize gas velocity (with smaller ports) to maximize the energy of the gas leaving the ports to create a greater equal and opposite reaction force to push the muzzle down. Since this porting job (the second one I did) I have not been drilling holes this big. i dont port larger than 7/64" (.109") diameter now. In theory for a given total cross sectional port area, more smaller ports would be more efficient at mitigating muzzle flip than less larger ports. In practice I cant tell a damn difference. That is getting into such a small difference in recoil characteristics and there is so much uncertainty and variation that comes from ammo, and a human shooting it I don't think anyone could notice. I dont know if that answered your question? I think the answer is yes?

You're most welcome. I hope its helpful. Thanks for watching and commenting!

Barrel material is the same. Different finish. The bull barrel was fit better than the barrel on my tisas but they were both not very great fits due to being cheap guns. Accuracy is more related to lock up. A bushing barrel and bull barrel have the same capability for good accuracy with proper fitting. A bull barrel lock up and fit wouldnt last any longer than a bushing barrel for any reason really. The bull barrel has more non-reciprocating mass. Generally shoots a little softer.

@@EngineersArmory 🙏

Tisas offers threaded barrels for the 1911 DS. They are standard 9mm 1911 bushing barrels. You can absolutely have a extended and threaded bull barrel. Sometimes bull barrels will be turned down and fit with a thread on sleeve that is then matched to the slide. And that extends forward with the standard thread. I dont know of any threaded barrels specific to the mac9. I dont know if there is a "standard" bull barrel size either.

I agree a heavier recoil spring would likely contribute to more of a "push" in the hand. A lighter recoil spring will allow higher slide velocity. The slide will hit the rear of its travel harder creating more of a snap.

I have swapped them and they fit just fine on each others frame. Didnt shoot them like that though, so not 100% confirmation.

Much appreciated man! Yeah this one took a long time. Probably a week of evenings writing the script. Another week of evenings filming and doing the work. And a 3rd week of editing. I probably took apart 6 different guns 5 times each haha. I hope its helpful to a lot of people!

@@EngineersArmory I think it'll certainly help out a lot of folks!

Inline will be more effective in reducing muzzle flip. I think I talk more about why in my P-10F porting video. The jist of it is... We want to push the muzzle straight down.. So we want the vented gas to go straight up. V-ports vent gas at an angle off the vertical. That means part of their energy is going to pushing the muzzle sideways (an equal amount each direction so you cant feel it). In practice, the difference is probably not noticeable. But from a physics stand point we want as much gas as possible going straight up to push the muzzle straight down. Inline ports do this. V ports dont. Hope this helps.

Hell yeah dude! way to get it done!

pistol 1913 rail tolerances seem to be all over the place. This one is especially loose. And the X300 A models dont have a very solid mounting system anyways.

@@EngineersArmory they should definitely do better with that. Someone should make an adapter to cut out that play.

Regular 2011 holsters should work. Lots of options. I attached the TLR1 light to mine so I could use my blackhawk omnivore holster

Thanks for sharing that tip. Good one for making a little flappy paddle polishing wheel! Sounds like you got a fun project ahead with the MAC9.