I've spent the last few weeks modeling all the internals on a double stack 1911 as my pre/post Christmas fun project looking for ways to maximize the platform (materials scientist with a penchant for composites). Even after pouring over blueprints and diagrams, seeing this working in action filled in the missing gaps so well I insta-subbed to the channel. My man!
...this is absolutely excellent..for YEARS, I've been looking for a demonstration of way the disconnector and sear work..and in closeup...this is PERFECT, my friend..thank you!!!
I'm glad it was helpful! I had never seen this demonstration with the components from a pistol, nor with the level of detail I was interested in. So, I decided to do it myself!
So many times I want to explain how 1911 triggers work to friends and at best there is that one GIF that circulates around... Now I'll be able to show a realistic video about the whole cycle! Thanks!
This had to be one of the best video cut away diagram... GREAT JOB BRO ... Showed it to 84 yr old neighbor & he said same thing!!! I've also subscribed to it channel. THANKS AGAIN KEEP MAKING THESE GREAT VIDEOS BRO
Excellent work on the demo jig. The simplicity of JMB's design created the standard by which all trigger pulls are judged, and for good reason. Merry Christmas!
The Browning multi function sear spring was so innovative for the 1890s when he was designing his self loading pistol. It saved considerable space and number of parts that would have otherwise been needed.
Eh. It was not unlike ang other leaf spring. Many, many weapons of the era had multiple functions tied to the same spring as the sear. Many of the lever actions leading thru the 1800s had springs acted as both sear and trigger spring. It was a then-relevant approach where mass production of springs wasn't scaled to its current capacity and flexibility. Now, it doesn't make as much sense. Otherwise, more new designs would bother, but they don't, for good reason.
Great video!! Holy 💩 you nailed it no lighting problems etc etc.. 🤠 I have sheer spring install problems & knew my problem is left spring is not where it's suppose to be... Hope your vid helps me tomorrow when I give it another try
Cool! Thanks for this! I too always was puzzled at how the sear/disconnector/springs worked together. I knew the sear/hammer/trigger portion, but this was perfect!
Love your videos, and the clarity of the descriptions, really helped me understand how everything works together. It is so hard to visualize inside the complete pistol frame.
I love love love your videos. I am going to buy a Tisas DS Duty 5" and try doing some of the tuning. I was scared because I have limites knowledge, but your videos really help me understand what to do and what is happening. Imhad no idea thr 1911 was so complex. Today at the range, a group of girls were shooting their Sig 365's. I don't know what configuration. Doesn't matter, i asked if either had shot a 1911. Neither had. So I loaded a 9 round mag and let them go. Both shot tight groups and somtimes 3 rounds would be nearly in tne same hole in the red zone. Both shot it so well. The guy next to me told them it was probably a Wilson Combat or Kimber, special tuning, hand fitted. They were all,shocked whEN i said it was a Tisas I paid 319 bucks for. This guy had a Flux Raider and a Canik TTI combat master. These veey attractive ladies though were more i impressed with my cheap 1911. They hung around and shot some more and I loved it. They did too.
Unfortunately I dont have access to an 80 series. I do have access to a Schwartz safety 1911. But different firing pin block actuation mechanisms. There is a lot of info about the 80 series in the Kuhnhausen manuals I would recommend checking that out.
I was looking at buying one of those but they were getting pretty terrible reviews. Like not operating properly out of the box. The Tisas and MAC9 (I have bought both), seemed to be doing better out of the box and therefore a better place to start a project. They're pretty much all the same. 70 series 1911 internals. Modular Staccato/STI pattern frame and grip module. If you're curious what I would have done to the Girsan, Check out my videos on the Tisas 1911 Carry DS. Thats very similar - bushing barrel, etc.
It's more fun for me when I operate mine !! Incredible demo !! My pull wieght went from 5lbs12oz brand new gun to 3lbs10oz after 64rounds. Thinkin I'll be leavin this one alone, just clean&lube !!
Love how you’re schooling these kids that wanna bitch about that “cheap” 2011 they bought 😅 please tell your Dad I said thank you for making such an awesome son and teaching you about machining 🙏🏻
Haha. Hey its cool people are getting into the platform. There is a pretty sharp learning curve associated with 1911s, but maybe my videos can help them out.
@@EngineersArmoryI don’t consider myself “old” by any means, but even I grew up around a 1911. Back in the day, you weren’t allowed to touch anything if you didn’t know how to properly use it or fix it 😅 you never picked up one of dads tools and started swinging it around while asking him what it is or what it does or why he has one 😂🤣 it’s just a respect thing. Respect what you’re going to use or even attempt to use, if it’s one job is to take a life or defend a life one day. Respect it by learning it, inside and out. You don’t know how many “gunsmiths” I’ve come across that wouldn’t have any idea what you’re talking about when it comes to all the angles of the contact points. Too many people think you can just grab some stones or some polish and a dremel and make everything shiny, and it’ll be magic 🤣🤣 sorry, I just really love and appreciate your level of detail. You do wonders for my OCD 😅
I usually post my designs on my GrabCAD page. However this one was very hard to get working properly. most the parts needed modification after printing them and I didn't want to go back and fix my models. It was very finicky and hard to make it work properly so i didn't want to publish it.
I'm a mechanical engineer and like your TH-cam videos to explain the details of the components inside a Colt 1911 model. I'm purchasing a Colt 45 acp Gold Cup National Match and am interested in purchasing a Kuhnhausen manual for the same pix you use to study along with your videos and narratives. I notice there are (2) Kuhnhausen manuals that look similar, if not identical? Do you think one of the books is sufficient for a beginner, for non commercial applications. Which might you suggest is uniquely better than the other.
There are two manuals that I reference by Kuhnhausen: "The Colt 45 Automatic A Shop manual," and "The U.S. M1911/M1911A1 Pistols & Commercial M1911 Type Pistols A Shop Manual." I would recommend both but if you were to get one, I would start with The U.S. M1911/M1911A1 book. There is some conflicting information between the books. I have only identified a couple areas - however the information in the M1911 book is correct (as far as I know) if they do disagree. There is a ton of great information in these manuals, but I dont think it is very well organized. For this reason I recommend a PDF version that you can use Ctrl+F to search for keywords to find the information you're after. Free PDF versions of both books are readily available with a quick Google search. I also understand wanting to have a paper copy at my work bench. In that case, I would recommend starting with the M1911 manual. Hope this helps!
This is the factory sear and hammer from the MAC 9DS. That relief cut under the hammer hooks makes the trigger have a mile of creep. The hammer has been replaced as a result.
Okay, I am interested in getting into 3d printing. Lets say i have a decent budget--whats a good printer for gun stuff? I'm a CNC machinist with a bit of CAD knowledge btw. I don't know if that really helps. I need to get better at CAD. I'm still an apprentice.
I actually just bought a Bambu Labs P1S. I highly recommend Bambu labs printers. You want a printer with an enclosure (that is to control the heating/cooling of plastics that require higher temp and slow cooling for layer adhesion, etc.). If you want to print polymers that are... close to what polymer frame pistols are made from - you're looking at nylon and higher temp polymers - also glass/carbon fiber filled. You need a hardened steel nozzle and extruder gears for that (thats about $40 of parts to upgrade the P1S - The X1C model comes with it already). Thats about it. 3D printing metal is not feasible for people to do at home/for a hobby. the printers are like $50k+. You'll need 3D modeling software to create your own designs - I use the free version of Fusion360. It works well enough for my purposes. The Bambu labs printers have their own slicing software. You upload a 3d part file (SLT, STP, solidworks, fusion, etc.) into the slicer - set your parameters - tell it which filament you're using and some other stuff. it creates the G code for you and sends it to the printer. Thingiverse, GrabCAD, and many other places (maybe some specific to gun parts...) have the models of... stuff... ready for download - throw it in the slicing software, slice it, print it. Hope this helps.
@@EngineersArmory i have Fusion360 and a student license of Solidworks although I need to get better at Solidworks. I tried following a slightly old guide to make a picatinny riser mount and it over defined the sketch. Sometimes I really hate Solidworks, I actually haven't played with 360 too much. It's funny you mentioned the Bambu labs printer. That is the exact model I was looking at the other day, recommended by a guy who built his own CNC machine. I'll have to get that one, it seems really nice. Eventually my goal is to start my own shop either making 2011 race guns and nice AR15s or I may start by making suppressors. It just depends which way the wind blows if you catch my drift. But if I go the suppressor route I'd probably invest in a DMLS machine first instead of CNC. It's a cool tech with a ton of applications outside firearms and it isn't oversaturated the way CNC kind of is.
Dude great stuff 🤘 thanks for all the work revealing the truth. Revelations in the scriptures John 19:11. No longer leaving this to the mystics and necromancers aka Fudd uncles.
I've spent the last few weeks modeling all the internals on a double stack 1911 as my pre/post Christmas fun project looking for ways to maximize the platform (materials scientist with a penchant for composites). Even after pouring over blueprints and diagrams, seeing this working in action filled in the missing gaps so well I insta-subbed to the channel. My man!
Haha welcome fellow nerd! glad it was useful. Thanks for watching, commenting and subscribing!
...this is absolutely excellent..for YEARS, I've been looking for a demonstration of way the disconnector and sear work..and in closeup...this is PERFECT, my friend..thank you!!!
I'm glad it was helpful! I had never seen this demonstration with the components from a pistol, nor with the level of detail I was interested in. So, I decided to do it myself!
as a gunsmith i also made a mock up 1911 ignition system.....yours sir is EXCELLENT !! NICE JOB
So many times I want to explain how 1911 triggers work to friends and at best there is that one GIF that circulates around... Now I'll be able to show a realistic video about the whole cycle! Thanks!
This had to be one of the best video cut away diagram... GREAT JOB BRO ... Showed it to 84 yr old neighbor & he said same thing!!! I've also subscribed to it channel. THANKS AGAIN KEEP MAKING THESE GREAT VIDEOS BRO
I sure hope your channel continues to grow and you keep putting out these great videos. I am glad I have ran across your channel.
Thanks! I appreciate it! As long as I enjoy making the content I will. I really enjoy making these technical videos.
Excellent work on the demo jig.
The simplicity of JMB's design created the standard by which all trigger pulls are judged, and for good reason.
Merry Christmas!
This has to be the most informative gun video I've seen in a long time.
Great job on that 3-D printed jig.
The Browning multi function sear spring was so innovative for the 1890s when he was designing his self loading pistol. It saved considerable space and number of parts that would have otherwise been needed.
Eh. It was not unlike ang other leaf spring. Many, many weapons of the era had multiple functions tied to the same spring as the sear. Many of the lever actions leading thru the 1800s had springs acted as both sear and trigger spring.
It was a then-relevant approach where mass production of springs wasn't scaled to its current capacity and flexibility. Now, it doesn't make as much sense. Otherwise, more new designs would bother, but they don't, for good reason.
These are great tutorial videos. I hope to see more like them also explaining most common malfunctions and how to solve them.
This was so helpful! Well done! Being new to 1911s, this is huge!
Excellent work! We appreciate you!
Wonderfully informative as always.
🎄Merry Christmas🎄
1911tism satisfied, rad 3dprinted demo rig right there, very educational. Merry Christmas!🎄
Gotta pay the 'tism toll! this was a fun and challenging design project. Merry Christmas to you too!
Great video!! Holy 💩 you nailed it no lighting problems etc etc.. 🤠 I have sheer spring install problems & knew my problem is left spring is not where it's suppose to be... Hope your vid helps me tomorrow when I give it another try
Bravo, sir. Awesome engineering.
Cool! Thanks for this! I too always was puzzled at how the sear/disconnector/springs worked together. I knew the sear/hammer/trigger portion, but this was perfect!
Excellent channel. Thanks for your hard work and instruction.
Perfect explanation and demonstration. Glad I found your channel
Excellent explanation and demo! 👍
Excellent explanation. Thank you for the time & effort to put this together
Love your videos, and the clarity of the descriptions, really helped me understand how everything works together. It is so hard to visualize inside the complete pistol frame.
I love love love your videos. I am going to buy a Tisas DS Duty 5" and try doing some of the tuning. I was scared because I have limites knowledge, but your videos really help me understand what to do and what is happening. Imhad no idea thr 1911 was so complex. Today at the range, a group of girls were shooting their Sig 365's. I don't know what configuration. Doesn't matter, i asked if either had shot a 1911. Neither had. So I loaded a 9 round mag and let them go. Both shot tight groups and somtimes 3 rounds would be nearly in tne same hole in the red zone. Both shot it so well. The guy next to me told them it was probably a Wilson Combat or Kimber, special tuning, hand fitted. They were all,shocked whEN i said it was a Tisas I paid 319 bucks for. This guy had a Flux Raider and a Canik TTI combat master. These veey attractive ladies though were more i impressed with my cheap 1911. They hung around and shot some more and I loved it. They did too.
Amazing content! Keep sharing your mechanical pursuit of excellence🇺🇲
Very very cool and well done! Thanks for sharing!!!
Very useful visualisation, cheers.
Amazing demonstration , thank you.
Thank you friendo, this is fantastic.
Will you do one for series 80 1911s? Incredibly informative video.
Unfortunately I dont have access to an 80 series. I do have access to a Schwartz safety 1911. But different firing pin block actuation mechanisms. There is a lot of info about the 80 series in the Kuhnhausen manuals I would recommend checking that out.
This is great! Thank you!
Good video, thanks for sharing, Merry Christmas man
Thanks for information I would like to see you do upgrades to the girsan 2311
I was looking at buying one of those but they were getting pretty terrible reviews. Like not operating properly out of the box. The Tisas and MAC9 (I have bought both), seemed to be doing better out of the box and therefore a better place to start a project. They're pretty much all the same. 70 series 1911 internals. Modular Staccato/STI pattern frame and grip module.
If you're curious what I would have done to the Girsan, Check out my videos on the Tisas 1911 Carry DS. Thats very similar - bushing barrel, etc.
Excellent! 😎
It's more fun for me when I operate mine !! Incredible demo !! My pull wieght went from 5lbs12oz brand new gun to 3lbs10oz after 64rounds. Thinkin I'll be leavin this one alone, just clean&lube !!
Thank you for this
Great job thanks
Amazing
Awesome explanation video! Thank you for this as I try telling people how this works but somehow it gets lost in translation.
Bro. This info is fire, man. Merry Christmas!
Merry Christmas to you too man!
Thank you.
Love how you’re schooling these kids that wanna bitch about that “cheap” 2011 they bought 😅 please tell your Dad I said thank you for making such an awesome son and teaching you about machining 🙏🏻
Haha. Hey its cool people are getting into the platform. There is a pretty sharp learning curve associated with 1911s, but maybe my videos can help them out.
@@EngineersArmoryI don’t consider myself “old” by any means, but even I grew up around a 1911. Back in the day, you weren’t allowed to touch anything if you didn’t know how to properly use it or fix it 😅 you never picked up one of dads tools and started swinging it around while asking him what it is or what it does or why he has one 😂🤣 it’s just a respect thing. Respect what you’re going to use or even attempt to use, if it’s one job is to take a life or defend a life one day. Respect it by learning it, inside and out. You don’t know how many “gunsmiths” I’ve come across that wouldn’t have any idea what you’re talking about when it comes to all the angles of the contact points. Too many people think you can just grab some stones or some polish and a dremel and make everything shiny, and it’ll be magic 🤣🤣 sorry, I just really love and appreciate your level of detail. You do wonders for my OCD 😅
Good shit
This was really helpful in figuring out how to "tune" a 1911. Do you have the 3D printed schematics available so we could build our own rig like this?
I usually post my designs on my GrabCAD page. However this one was very hard to get working properly. most the parts needed modification after printing them and I didn't want to go back and fix my models. It was very finicky and hard to make it work properly so i didn't want to publish it.
I'm a mechanical engineer and like your TH-cam videos to explain the details of the components inside a Colt 1911 model. I'm purchasing a Colt 45 acp Gold Cup National Match and am interested in purchasing a Kuhnhausen manual for the same pix you use to study along with your videos and narratives. I notice there are (2) Kuhnhausen manuals that look similar, if not identical? Do you think one of the books is sufficient for a beginner, for non commercial applications. Which might you suggest is uniquely better than the other.
There are two manuals that I reference by Kuhnhausen: "The Colt 45 Automatic A Shop manual," and "The U.S. M1911/M1911A1 Pistols & Commercial M1911 Type Pistols A Shop Manual."
I would recommend both but if you were to get one, I would start with The U.S. M1911/M1911A1 book.
There is some conflicting information between the books. I have only identified a couple areas - however the information in the M1911 book is correct (as far as I know) if they do disagree.
There is a ton of great information in these manuals, but I dont think it is very well organized. For this reason I recommend a PDF version that you can use Ctrl+F to search for keywords to find the information you're after.
Free PDF versions of both books are readily available with a quick Google search.
I also understand wanting to have a paper copy at my work bench. In that case, I would recommend starting with the M1911 manual.
Hope this helps!
What sear / hammer kit are you using? Never seen a hammer with a sear nose relief cut at the hammer hook perpendicular surface.
This is the factory sear and hammer from the MAC 9DS. That relief cut under the hammer hooks makes the trigger have a mile of creep. The hammer has been replaced as a result.
@@EngineersArmory What did you use to replace the factory parts if you don't mind me asking?
@@kilowatt9598 Only replaced the hammer and hammer strut. Got a fusion firearms hammer, and a Staccato titanium hammer strut.
Okay, I am interested in getting into 3d printing. Lets say i have a decent budget--whats a good printer for gun stuff?
I'm a CNC machinist with a bit of CAD knowledge btw. I don't know if that really helps. I need to get better at CAD. I'm still an apprentice.
I actually just bought a Bambu Labs P1S. I highly recommend Bambu labs printers. You want a printer with an enclosure (that is to control the heating/cooling of plastics that require higher temp and slow cooling for layer adhesion, etc.). If you want to print polymers that are... close to what polymer frame pistols are made from - you're looking at nylon and higher temp polymers - also glass/carbon fiber filled. You need a hardened steel nozzle and extruder gears for that (thats about $40 of parts to upgrade the P1S - The X1C model comes with it already). Thats about it. 3D printing metal is not feasible for people to do at home/for a hobby. the printers are like $50k+.
You'll need 3D modeling software to create your own designs - I use the free version of Fusion360. It works well enough for my purposes. The Bambu labs printers have their own slicing software. You upload a 3d part file (SLT, STP, solidworks, fusion, etc.) into the slicer - set your parameters - tell it which filament you're using and some other stuff. it creates the G code for you and sends it to the printer.
Thingiverse, GrabCAD, and many other places (maybe some specific to gun parts...) have the models of... stuff... ready for download - throw it in the slicing software, slice it, print it.
Hope this helps.
@@EngineersArmory i have Fusion360 and a student license of Solidworks although I need to get better at Solidworks. I tried following a slightly old guide to make a picatinny riser mount and it over defined the sketch. Sometimes I really hate Solidworks, I actually haven't played with 360 too much.
It's funny you mentioned the Bambu labs printer. That is the exact model I was looking at the other day, recommended by a guy who built his own CNC machine. I'll have to get that one, it seems really nice.
Eventually my goal is to start my own shop either making 2011 race guns and nice AR15s or I may start by making suppressors. It just depends which way the wind blows if you catch my drift. But if I go the suppressor route I'd probably invest in a DMLS machine first instead of CNC. It's a cool tech with a ton of applications outside firearms and it isn't oversaturated the way CNC kind of is.
Dude great stuff 🤘 thanks for all the work revealing the truth. Revelations in the scriptures John 19:11. No longer leaving this to the mystics and necromancers aka Fudd uncles.