Great video!!! I have been following your upgrades of the Springfield Armory Prodigy. Very helpful in disassemble and reassemble the pistol, did my Prodigy 4.25" following your video. Thanks for the instructions step by step video!!!
Just did mine with harbor freight needle files. I used the dimond coated ones and the ones that come in the blue pack with the handles. Then 1000 grit/1500 grit. Feels great
That’s awesome my friend. I hope you like it! And if you have any issues, just check out my channel anything you might need help with should be on there and if not shoot a comment and I’ll help if I can!
@@americantrucker9813hey fam. Just found one of your videos. What springs have you changed?( if you have) and what are the weight? Just got mine a few days ago and took out to shoot today. Ran 300 124 grain Speer lawman and ammo inc. only had about 5 failure to go to battery I may have just limp wristed but just wondering what I can do before having to resort to calling SA for warranty work.
@@unitedwestanddividedwefall3521 you can certainly send it back but I don’t think it’s necessary. First things first it sounds like either your barrel is reamed a little tight as mine was and or your extractor is either too tight or too loose. Is it’s extracting the old round and almost going entirely into battery and stopping close to fully charged than I’d say it’s too tight. You could (I don’t recommend) leave it alone and run what ammo it likes. But on my channel & other channels like Atlas gun works & Wilson Combat you’ll find enough video content to fine tune every part on your prodigy. I tuned my extractor and ran 10k rounds without issue. I than round ammo my prodigy wouldn’t run but my Atlas would that’s when I discovered the chamber was tighter than my atlas. I recommend factory recoil spring (I still use OEM) and a 13 to 17lbs max mainspring, Atlas Medium Flat trigger with 2011 bow (two separate pieces) & tuning the trigger yourself if you’d like it lighter, less pre-travel, over-travel, and a very positive rest (I have a video). EGW internals if you want to change your out but it’s unnecessary. Atlas High Ambi Safety’s. Tri-Arch intermediate slid stop (it’s the only extended slides stop designed for 2011s that I know of) or you can buy a Kolonimus 1911 9mm/40cal Extended slide stop from eBay but you would have to shave a little bit off of your grip or a little bit off of the slide stop. Those are the majority of upgrades I did to mine. I left some out. You can find those on my channel if you’re interested. But I definitely want to help you get your gun running good so let me know if this advice helps and if not, I can recommend some other things.
Awesome will let me know how that goes my friend! I do the marvel cut to all of my 1911’s and 2011s it makes such a huge difference. I also send down the hammer until it locks back from the slide but doesn’t cause friction on standard Hammers they’re pushed way too far, which is a big reason for the beaver tail. You can pull back the slide slowly and listen for the hammer to click enter position, and then watch how much further it gets pushed by the slide, causing all of that unnecessary friction. The slide reciprocates so effortlessly and so smoothly when you remove the friction, it feels like the sliders on ball bearings
A better way to do this is Bob Marvel disconnecter ramp cut. Which is only remove material from the round striping block that is the width of the disconnect. That leaves 2 little “ears” in each side of the round striping block for reliability. Doing it this way risk the changes of removing too much material and causes issues chambering rounds.
I don’t know who told you all of that my friend, but you’re arguing with Atlas gun works, nighthawk, and countless other amazing gun builders. Not to mention hundreds of people have done this just from watching my video and every single last one of them love it and have comments about the improvements that it made you can scroll and read for yourself. I wouldn’t recommend anything to anyone that has more risk than reward, that is, indeed, why people have looked to me for my help & content.
@@americantrucker9813 Atlas said they do not do the angle in the Ramp cut anymore for the reason I cited. If I can find where Adam from Atlas said it, I will post the link to it . I have a newer atlas and it doesn't have it. Nighthawk uses the Marvel cut; which is a the "ramp" in the middle on breach face/ disconnector. They never angled the entire Breachface. In fact, bob marvel used that cut while he was working at Nighthawk. Nighthawk as of 2019 stopped doing the disco ramp cut on all pistols not chambered in .45. Neither Nighthawk.
But my point is that there is No right or Wrong or This is Better or that’s better when it comes to this subject. It’s simply a bunch of opinions and preferences, my Atlas has a Ramped disco rail and It’s As Reliable & smooth as they come, my Prodigy & other 1911s have the Ramped disco rail and it has improved each gun and improved reliability. Doing the cut your way seems to be the least favorite way of many builders because apparently it makes those disco rails very thin and liable to break. And in order to Remove so much material that you would disrupt feeding would be no easy task for any competent person, that’s like me saying it’s dangerous to change your Breaks because your wheel can fall off afterwards, many things are hazardous if done incorrectly by people either ignorant or Lazy. My Atlas NYX V2 was built in 2023 and it’s a beautiful masterpiece and It runs flawlessly with anything I run through it, so maybe you’ll understand my logic when you tell me my Atlas could be better with a new slide done your way.( when it really can’t get any better than it is via your preferred method)
@@americantrucker9813 Fair enough, But I didn't say it was "right or wrong" I suggested what I think is a better way. "Better" is obviously subjective. That's all. and I watched the video. How else would know, and be commenting on how you modified your gun? LOL Hey if it works for you, it works.
After installing the parts from the EGW kit, my slide is dragging on the disco big time. Feels like crap. As of now, I'm attributing it to either too much tension on the center leg of the spring or too tight a fit of the disco through the frame hole. Pushing down on the disco it's very stiff and is clearly catching. I noticed that the stock disco is very highly polished and is almost smooth at the tip, unlike the EGW which was untouched. I did make the EGW the same dimensions as the stock disco, but I think it needs more taken off. Hopefully, I can tune that out today without any mods to the slide. (BTW, the trigger reset is crazy strong right now. Almost too much, so I'm comfortable with adjusting the center leg a bit.) Thanks!
If I were you I’d run the disconnector that works or continue to modify the EGW disco. Disconnectors are different specs across many different manufacturers, EGWs are different from Wilson and so on. I also learned this the hard way what I purchased a new disconnected that wasn’t working properly. The problem with mine was it was too short to engage the slide. If you relieve the pressure on your disconnect, you will lose your positive reset, so personally I wouldn’t take much weight off your disconnector spring. I’d Recommend using your old disconnector honestly but if you’re like me and you just have to make it work than make sure the height of the Disco Stem matches the old one, and the width. The slide operating will natural a Polish, the disconnector.
@@americantrucker9813 Yeah, thanks for the tips. I'll start by more closely matching the profile of the stock disco, and go from there. I matched the width/shape of the stock disco but didn't really consider the overall length which could have a big effect.
@@baxrok2. you’re welcome and also replacing the disco, sear, & Hammer very often will change the trigger travel. So if you have an Atlas trigger tuned with little to no Pre-Travel & Over-travel it may not Break and or Reset so you’d just need to Push your pre travel tabs back to factory & loosen the over travel screw and than Tune if accordingly
@@americantrucker9813 Yes, thanks. Honestly, I was expecting the trigger travel/feel to change even more than it did with the EGW upgrade. But, I wasn't expecting to have problems with the disco! lol Ya' never know.
@baxrok2. It is certainly interesting how the same parts for the same gun can have so much variation in tolerances across manufacturers and sometimes the same manufacturer will put out parts with different tolerances! But i’d say the most important job the disco has is to match the whole in the disco floor to prevent debris getting into the Ignition kits and to Not create allot of Slide friction, I have a video showing how to put the marvel cut or disco ramp in your slide to prevent disco Friction if you haven’t already ramped your slide but if you don’t like a positive reset than you can eliminate friction by reducing spring pressure. My sear spring pressure is probably 30% pressure on the Sear & 70% on the Disconnector/Trigger bow, so out of the 2.5lbs trigger so 1.75lbs on the trigger & .75lbs on the sear and it allows a safe but light trigger with little to no Pre-travel, little to no over-travel and a positive reset. As opposed to the trigger barely returning & reseting like many Aftermarket AR-15 triggers.
Yep. I put a slight 20-degree chamfer on the lower edge of the breach face using my end mill (not a big dremmel guy-but you do you), extending maybe 4-5mm back, and paired with heavier mag springs, my 4.25 runs FLAWLESSLY. I’ll swap to the EGW forged hammer/sear/disco and goto a 19# mainspring (maybe eventually a tool-less guide rod), but I don’t feel those are ‘musts’, but instead just added peace of mind on those impact parts.
@@msh441 use what you got my friend! I would recommend a 17 pound main spring or lighter. There’s really no need for a 19lbs mainspring for a 9mm. 19lbs is standard for 45acp. I run a 13lbs mainspring. The tooless guide rod isn’t a big deal I ran the original in my 4.25 inch but I did put a atlas tooless guide rod in my 5inch and it’s nice for looks and tearing it down without tools. It makes it easy to swap recoil springs. I run all EGW internals and a 8lbs Wolf recoil spring if I’m not mistaken. I definitely highly recommend the atlas IDPA Ambi safety’s. Or the wider Standard Ambi safety’s. They add an incredible amount of stability when shooting.
I think you might be confusing the mainspring, and the recoil spring, @ . 17# is stock for the 4.25 9mm, and a 12-13# recoil spring (10-11# on the 5”). Bumping up to a 19# mainspring adds a touch of trigger weight, but ensures detonation on those crappy hard primers we’re seeing everywhere at the moment.
The Springfield prodigy comes with a 19lbs mainspring & some say it’s actually 23lbs but at min 19lbs and a 12lbs recoil spring for 4.25 inch and a 10lbs for 5inch . The mainspring is the spring in the mainspring housing which engages the hammer strut. I run a 13lbs mainspring. I’m not at all confused. My 13 lbs mainspring has no issue with light primer strikes. But regardless to each his own, I like my set up it has run reliably over 20,000 rounds in the 4.25 inch and about 12,000 rounds in the 5 inch both set up very similarly.
It holds up as well as any polished gun I own. It just takes some care but all of my guns do. I’m not sure I just know you can polish any type of steel. I’ll say the prodigy Frame and slide are made extremely well ! And it’s an amazing gun and the price is unmatched for what you get.
I assume that one has to be careful not to alter the disconnector ramp too far or you would run the risk of the pistol being able to fire out of battery?
@@tfrank328 no, that won’t result from removing too much material. if you remove too much it can cause an issue feeding but you would have to remove a lot of material and there’s no need. You’re simply just removing enough to clear your disconnector, it is easier and smoother for your disco rail to press down on the disconnect than for it to catch it with the edge & overcome that friction and than press down. I’ve seen some that don’t have the Marvel cut and aren’t bad & I’ve seen many almost get stuck open on that disconnector. On the 1911, it would be just about impossible to fire out of battery. it isn’t until the slide is all the way forward that the disconnect can reset into the slide cut at the rear of the disco rail. Not to mention the hammer itself can’t fall until the slide is forward.
Thank you so much again bro! This was super helpful. Mine is super smooth the only time it gets held up on the disconnector is when I have the trigger depressed so I can feel the reset. As soon I lighten up on the triggger the slide will go forward. Or even if I shake the gun it forward. But I’m going to try this and to polish some parts to see if that’ll help
Well, I can say for certain that when you press the trigger that is actually increasing the spring pressure against the disconnector, so you can definitely either put in the ramp or light in the middle leaf on the sear spring Spring but if you are like me and you like a really positive reset then try the ramp first I personally like the trigger to be shoving forward and also there is a balance and I have found that to be about 3.5 lbs I’d say 65% of that weight is on the left leaf spring which is on the sear and then the other 35% is on the middle leaf which is the disconnector any more than that and it will be sluggish for no reason but I am glad I’m able to help you like I said this is why I do this, I don’t get paid or sponsors I’m a working man I don’t care to make money off of TH-cam. I just like to help when I can.
@@americantrucker9813 Yeah I think once I do that and polish it up I’m hoping I’m good to go. I’m taking it out tomorrow to put some rounds through it for the first time. I’m the same way I have to have a good positive reset or else it just throws me off. We’ll that’s really nice of you man cause it’s hard finding seen good advice. I got a taste of that trying to gets a local gun smith to look at it for me haha. I should have known I’m better off to do it myself like everything else haha. I do HVACR so I usually like to work on my own stuff rather it’s trucks, guns and what ever else! I learn so much off TH-cam haha. But I can tell you now one has gone above and beyond like you trying to help
Nobody will ever care about your things like you do it’s sad I know but most people don’t take pride in their work. I’m a Owner Operator truck driver and I had to become a good mechanic just to stay in business because people will rip you off and charge 3 and 4x their estimated and than the works half ass’d so your left with gambling your hard earned money on people or become self efficient and no matter how hard it is or how bad it sucks only you will suck up that pain and torque that pain in the ass bolt to spec because anyone else would have said it’ll be fine it’s not mine ! But I didn’t know you haven’t shot it yet. I will tell you these prodigy’s can be Tuned okay, barley operating, or not at all so don’t let it get you down you might have a Runner or you may need a 500 round break in and if it isn’t running good I have steps you can take to Tune it Properly and get it running smooth and if tuned it is more reliable than any handgun I’ve ever shot and I’ve got some nice ones lol but the point they just need to be tuned like any car or truck but once you do that it’s a ZR1 Corvette you’ll see. Well I appreciate the kind words and I wish you luck my friend and enjoy your weekend and shooting !! Let me know how it goes !
@@americantrucker9813 Exactly I was just talking about this with a customer of mine. I’m a a small business owner and it’s just crazy to my the lack of pride people take in there work and get away with it not to mention charge too dollar while they at it. For something you could probably do yourself but people are always to scared to dig into and figure it out. It’s always nice to meet someone like minded l these days haha. Yeah I’m sure once I get some rounds through it it’ll help smooth it all out. I didn’t get a chance today it’s been wind and rain here in ABQ today. Oh yeah I’ve seen your videos on how reliable you have gotten it to and that’s my goal. I pretty much copied your build same pID light and Altas trigger and egw kit. I’m waiting on Holosun comp red dot but just running a 507c for the mean time. Also saving up for the Cheely grip. Your build is perfect haha. Thanks again man and I hope your having a good weekend
@American Trucker as an VW Master Automotive Technician I have seen hacks and people not doing work correctly and having to go back behind them and make it right for a customer. Good on you sir for learning the trade to be able to be self sufficient and avoid the hacks. I fell in love with The prodigy as it was an affordable double stack 1911. Mine ran perfect for one magazine and I was in love. The next it started to not fully return to battery. All the videos I can find online I’ve been delving into and learning as it’s my first 1911 style pistol. After adjusting my ejector and polishing the feed ramp and the disconnector. I’m waiting to get back to the range and see how the gun runs now
Yes, the atlas comes with the marvel cut. And I should add I would do no such thing to such an expensive firearm. I’ve made material modifications to the atlas. Just some cosmetic upgrades. And I had to cerakote their grip module because the DLC coding wore off so very fast. Definitely the weakest DLC coating I’ve ever seen.
@@americantrucker9813 I did the marvel cut to my 1911 myself with a file and it is as smooth as butter. Does most 2011 have the marvel cut as well, the reason why they’re so smooth? Thanks again.
It is definitely an improvement! That is why I recommend it but I would imagine that the higher end 1911s & 2011s have it but I don’t know. I do know it would cost money to do it and most places are all about making money. So some probably don’t.
I still use the factory recoil spring and a 13lbs mainspring be warned that these mainsprings even from the best companies are not always what they say ! I bought 2 from atlas and 2 from CCGuns and 3 from EGW and only 2 were 17Lbs 4 were 19lbs and 1 was 13lbs but the lighter the better in my opinion and I don’t have issues with light strikes
I highly doubt you would be able to unless you were trying to mess it up. But anything is possible. If you don’t think it’s something your capable of than I recommend don’t try. You can have a local gun smith do it for you. Or leave it factory. If your chasing a Super smooth slide that feels like a 6,000 custom gun than The marvel cut & tuning your Hammer/slide overcocking is the ticket In my opinion. It make the action silky smooth like it’s on ball bearings
@@americantrucker9813 Hey man thanks for the reply; I've changed out the springs in the gun, tooless guide rod, fire control kit. I'm no acclaimed gun smith, I would feel better about it working with a file, I'm just curious if there are dimensions I should follow? Your video makes sense, but I'm an engineer and um well, I need more details LOL.
@jonathantrumpower9316 lol well the Goal is to have the tip of your Disconnector Rail on the bottom of your slide to clear the Disconnector & because these guns are mass produced the tolerances vary so it will depend entire on your Disconnector. The Disconnector Spring pressure control your trigger return/reset if you Like a Positive reset (which a strong reset also increases trigger safety with light triggers) as I do than the marvel cut is Definitely the way to eliminate the Disconnector drag simply start removing the material and then check to see if it clears the face of your Disconnector would be the safest way to do it. If you were unsure, I can tell you this you would have to remove an incredible amount of material to damage this firearm or to cause issues and there’s no possible way you could do that if you are checking and stopping when it clears the disconnector.
Yes it’s the cheely L2 aluminum grip and no modifications required but if I could go back I’d have gotten the E2 grip so if your looking to get a cheely grip I’d recommend the E2 grip but they are all great and well worth it you can put them on any STI 2011 style gun
The L2 is perfectly fine I’m sure if you like the way your prodigy is now you’ll like the L2 but I personally just love the E2 so much more they ergonomics are much better my Atlas Nyx came with an Aluminum E2 grip and it’s definitely my favorite but that’s just my opinion I guess it will depend on you. Fun fact every Single Atlas gunworks handguns come factory with the Aluminum E2 grip so I think that says something about it
Why not just put polishing compound on and rack the gun a hundred times like the old school gunsmiths? I’m not a gunsmith, so I’m just wondering if there’s a good reason not to on the 2011 style gun.
Well I’m not exactly sure what specific friction you are talking about trying to eliminate if you mean, put polishing compound on the disco rail You could rack it 100,000 times and it’s not going to remove enough material to eliminate this friction, the marvel cut is the very best way to eliminate slide & disconnector drag and it makes a Dramatic difference and Will immediately makes your slides action smoother & in doing so will help promote reliable feeding and function. I don’t invent the Marvey Cut I’m just sharing it with you guys. The best gun builders & The most expensive 2011s have the Marvel Ramp cut already so that should tell you it must be worth the time.
@americantrucker9813 I've watched alot of your videos and read about of your replies and I have to say, thank you for one making these videos. And also thank you for taking the time to ACTUALLY read and reply to your watchers and in a professional way. I see so many guys make videos and look at they're following like numbers. Just wanted do say that, NEVER STOP, NEVER QUIT!
It honestly is up to you my friend, i cannot tell you what you should or shouldn’t do I can only give you the information I know and the marvel cut is an excellent upgrade for any 1911/2011 the only thing that would stop me from doing it is if the firearm is a Collectors item in which I wouldn’t do any modifications but in your specific case I don’t see any cons the marvel cut will only increase the Function, reliability, and I’d wager increase your desire to shoot it. It’s something that makes a very pleasant improvement.
@@americantrucker9813 love your videos and the way you’re willing to document and share soo much on the success you find and have with altering your double stacks, you’re doing the whole scene a service and for that i thank and salute you brother
WOW! You really just eyeballed that with the Dremel. You do understand there’s some math to the degree the angle should be at. Also, some gunsmith’s modify the disconnector too.
Grinding down the disconnector isn’t something I’d recommend. And It’s not rocket science my friend. Luckily for me I didn’t invent the wheel here, I simply took a tried & true upgrade and applied it to my own & share my personal opinions & experience. I’m sorry that it wasn’t to your liking.
The upgrade is a great idea, I have marvel upgrades on all my 2011s. But I sent them to a Gunsmith who measured them and did the work. By all means it’s your gun do with it how you like?
@dcuellarjr there’s nothing wrong with sending it to the gunsmith, but this upgrade is not that difficult or complicated and does not require a skilled gunsmith. Many guys simply do not have access to an affordable gunsmith, but still would like to enjoy upgrading and learning that is what I do here I learn and I share.
@jedeckert9525 the marvel ramp honestly is worth doing the upgrade. I wouldn’t recommend it if it wasn’t. And I simply just took what made the atlas so good and tried to apply it to the prodigy and read the comments. The guys that have actually done this upgrade couldn’t be happier with it. And the disconnector is not something that needs to be changed unless there is an issue. These parts are mil spec so they are not fine tuned to your firearm. if I were you, I would just put the OEM disconnector back into it or do the marvel cut. The Marvel cut will also solve the problem with that new Egw disconnector.
I can’t answer that my friend, but my guess would be yes indeed any serious modification could avoid your warranty, but I would say as long as your gun is squared away( no major manufacturing defects) then the warranty isn’t going to do much good these guns are tanks and will last forever, with the exception of the polymer grip that it comes with, but I don’t see why modification to your slide would affect the warranty on the polymer grip but it’s probably just best to assume the warranty is void upon modification.
@@americantrucker9813By the way, you do know this is called the 'Bob Marvel' disco cut, right? Nighthawk used to do it to all their guns, then they stopped all of a sudden.
@vonowens3450 you don’t have to go back very far at all. Honestly, I’d say go back in an inch your entire goal is to make sure that your disco rail goes over top of your disconnector. You can make the ramp as short and steep as you want. basically your disco rail is hitting a ledge right now you’re trying to remove That ledge and create a ramp which creates much less friction. if I believed it took a great deal of precision and skill I wouldn’t recommend people do this, but this is a pretty nominal upgrade that provides outstanding benefits immediately noticeable. Just check out the comments every single person that has done. This has been super happy with the results.
Also take your barrel out and hand test any and all ammo you use to make sure it slides into and out of chamber easy, my prodigy barrel was reamed very tight and I ended up finding that out when trying new ammo & comparing that to my Atlas Nyx which is for any & all ammo the atlas was true to that claim and the chamber was reamed to fit all ammo tested. The prodigy runs so much smoother after the chamber reaming. After everything I’ve done combined the gun literally doesn’t fail, only the ammo can and I haven’t had that happen since using Winchester junk ammo but even that ammo runs incredibly well I’m assuming because the Hammer hits harder than many striker fired guns and Winchester notoriously has hard primers
Why not just replace the main spring that is way oversprung from the factory with the EGW kit that is causing the disconnector to push up against the slide? That way you replace the MIM parts and don't have to hack your slide up? 2 birds 1 stone
Lighting the spring pressure on the disconnector is a cheap fix with downsides like weak trigger reset. Send your question to Atlas Gun Works. Infinity. And many other quality builders whom use the Marvel cut. I Personally love the Marvel cut and I’ve done it to all my 1911s and the improvement is substantial. It makes the slide so smooth and increases reliability helping a consistent Feel when shooting and helps feeding. When you shoot allot your gun will get Dirty and without the marvel cut the Friction continues to build and can cause malfunctions. With the Marvel cut the more you shoot as the Lube dries out and the carbon build your slide will still be smooth. I’m not telling anybody to do it. Do whatever you want to do. I only gave it a shot because I trust That Atlas Gun Works wouldn’t do that to a $6000 gun for no reason. They are competition shooters, and longtime builders. So I personally chose to copy them.
Hey man hope all is well! I wanted to give you an update on the gun! It’s running so much better after everything you helped me do! I have about 500 rounds through it but I’m still playing with spring weights and Shit. A 8lb recoil spring isn’t enough to push the slide forward but it’s runs well with a 9lb recoil spring. Once I get some rounds through it and it gets dirty it will have one or two failures to feed. I’m running a 19lb main spring that came with the egw kit. Should I try swapping it out for a 17lb main spring?
@@americantrucker9813 The marvel cut helped a ton!Also polishing the hole that disconnector runs through. Sweet I ordered a 17lb so I give that a go. No worries bro your always great about replying! I really appriciate it
Well I appreciate that allot and the marvel cut is definitely a must for me at least and once you eliminate all that friction your gonna be set. Try finding friction with your gun completely dry no Lube and maybe make marks with a marker and see where it wears the marker and you’ll know where to work on reducing friction
@@americantrucker9813 I will defiantly give that a try next! And the marvel cut really helped and polishing everything up. Once I get it tuned in it just might be my new favorite haha. How many rounds do you have through yours now?
Springfield armory doesn’t upgrade your gun under warranty. They fix it to standard specs. As the title of the video reads it’s an upgrade. Like putting in a aftermarket trigger or such
@@paulcartmel1373 someone done that to your double stack? I don’t understand? so you’re saying somebody broke into your house and ruined your slide by doing a marvel cut incorrectly? Or you’re saying you gave your gun to somebody to do a marvel cut that didn’t know how to do a marvel cut? The marvel cut has been around for a long time and it doesn’t ruin anything, it improves reliability by removing friction and creating a more reliable feeding.
This is cringe worthy, please stop! That slide is ruined and will have feeding issues. Get training if you want to continue doing work like this. Also live ammo on your bench is a recipe for disaster.
Lmao. Message from a dead man according to you. Those are your opinions (I fought for you to have and share them btw ) but they aren’t Facts. You’re the problem with this country. Entitlement, disrespect, & you’re simply a snob. Why don’t you try to lecture you children but outside that mind your own business. The slide isn’t ruined & runs flawlessly as does 1000s of others who’ve done this upgrade. So to assert Your opinions as Fact in a disrespectful manner shows that you truly are a Fool. Facts don’t care about your feelings.
Removing sear spring pressure is part of tuning these guns but for this particular fork (the middle of the sear spring) that pushes both our trigger & disconnector so if you like a Good Positive reset than removing spring pressure isn’t the way to go. And if your were talking about the Mainspring it’s already has a Light mainspring.
@KillerBudda1418 19lbs is super heavy. Go as light as you can find, mines 13lbs. 17lbs are okay but allot of springs have inconsistent weights I have 3 17lbs spring that are all different. Your prodigy came with a 19lbs spring
Great video!!! I have been following your upgrades of the Springfield Armory Prodigy. Very helpful in disassemble and reassemble the pistol, did my Prodigy 4.25" following your video. Thanks for the instructions step by step video!!!
Thank you very much I appreciate that ! And that is why I do this so thank you for the feedback that’s my only motive is to help where I can !
I appreciate you showing us, Prodigy 4.25 Diyers, how to alter our sidearms for reliability.
@@adibee88 your welcome.
Literally just tried it after watching your video. Smooth as butter thanks!!!
You are welcome my friend! It’s crazy how much of a difference it can make !
Just did mine with harbor freight needle files. I used the dimond coated ones and the ones that come in the blue pack with the handles. Then 1000 grit/1500 grit. Feels great
I just ordered my prodigy last week and should be getting it in the next couple days I’m sure. I’m thinking I’ll be visiting more of your videos
That’s awesome my friend. I hope you like it! And if you have any issues, just check out my channel anything you might need help with should be on there and if not shoot a comment and I’ll help if I can!
@@americantrucker9813hey fam. Just found one of your videos. What springs have you changed?( if you have) and what are the weight? Just got mine a few days ago and took out to shoot today. Ran 300 124 grain Speer lawman and ammo inc. only had about 5 failure to go to battery I may have just limp wristed but just wondering what I can do before having to resort to calling SA for warranty work.
@@unitedwestanddividedwefall3521 you can certainly send it back but I don’t think it’s necessary. First things first it sounds like either your barrel is reamed a little tight as mine was and or your extractor is either too tight or too loose. Is it’s extracting the old round and almost going entirely into battery and stopping close to fully charged than I’d say it’s too tight. You could (I don’t recommend) leave it alone and run what ammo it likes. But on my channel & other channels like Atlas gun works & Wilson Combat you’ll find enough video content to fine tune every part on your prodigy. I tuned my extractor and ran 10k rounds without issue. I than round ammo my prodigy wouldn’t run but my Atlas would that’s when I discovered the chamber was tighter than my atlas. I recommend factory recoil spring (I still use OEM) and a 13 to 17lbs max mainspring, Atlas Medium Flat trigger with 2011 bow (two separate pieces) & tuning the trigger yourself if you’d like it lighter, less pre-travel, over-travel, and a very positive rest (I have a video). EGW internals if you want to change your out but it’s unnecessary. Atlas High Ambi Safety’s. Tri-Arch intermediate slid stop (it’s the only extended slides stop designed for 2011s that I know of) or you can buy a Kolonimus 1911 9mm/40cal Extended slide stop from eBay but you would have to shave a little bit off of your grip or a little bit off of the slide stop. Those are the majority of upgrades I did to mine. I left some out. You can find those on my channel if you’re interested. But I definitely want to help you get your gun running good so let me know if this advice helps and if not, I can recommend some other things.
Great tip! I’ll have mine in two weeks. I’ll see if there are any problems.
Awesome will let me know how that goes my friend! I do the marvel cut to all of my 1911’s and 2011s it makes such a huge difference. I also send down the hammer until it locks back from the slide but doesn’t cause friction on standard Hammers they’re pushed way too far, which is a big reason for the beaver tail. You can pull back the slide slowly and listen for the hammer to click enter position, and then watch how much further it gets pushed by the slide, causing all of that unnecessary friction. The slide reciprocates so effortlessly and so smoothly when you remove the friction, it feels like the sliders on ball bearings
A better way to do this is Bob Marvel disconnecter ramp cut.
Which is only remove material from the round striping block that is the width of the disconnect. That leaves 2 little “ears” in each side of the round striping block for reliability. Doing it this way risk the changes of removing too much material and causes issues chambering rounds.
I don’t know who told you all of that my friend, but you’re arguing with Atlas gun works, nighthawk, and countless other amazing gun builders. Not to mention hundreds of people have done this just from watching my video and every single last one of them love it and have comments about the improvements that it made you can scroll and read for yourself. I wouldn’t recommend anything to anyone that has more risk than reward, that is, indeed, why people have looked to me for my help & content.
@@americantrucker9813 Atlas said they do not do the angle in the Ramp cut anymore for the reason I cited. If I can find where Adam from Atlas said it, I will post the link to it . I have a newer atlas and it doesn't have it. Nighthawk uses the Marvel cut; which is a the "ramp" in the middle on breach face/ disconnector. They never angled the entire Breachface. In fact, bob marvel used that cut while he was working at Nighthawk. Nighthawk as of 2019 stopped doing the disco ramp cut on all pistols not chambered in .45. Neither Nighthawk.
Well, I also have a newer atlas and it in fact does if you watched the video you would know that
But my point is that there is No right or Wrong or This is Better or that’s better when it comes to this subject. It’s simply a bunch of opinions and preferences, my Atlas has a Ramped disco rail and It’s As Reliable & smooth as they come, my Prodigy & other 1911s have the Ramped disco rail and it has improved each gun and improved reliability. Doing the cut your way seems to be the least favorite way of many builders because apparently it makes those disco rails very thin and liable to break. And in order to Remove so much material that you would disrupt feeding would be no easy task for any competent person, that’s like me saying it’s dangerous to change your Breaks because your wheel can fall off afterwards, many things are hazardous if done incorrectly by people either ignorant or Lazy. My Atlas NYX V2 was built in 2023 and it’s a beautiful masterpiece and It runs flawlessly with anything I run through it, so maybe you’ll understand my logic when you tell me my Atlas could be better with a new slide done your way.( when it really can’t get any better than it is via your preferred method)
@@americantrucker9813 Fair enough, But I didn't say it was "right or wrong" I suggested what I think is a better way. "Better" is obviously subjective. That's all. and I watched the video. How else would know, and be commenting on how you modified your gun? LOL Hey if it works for you, it works.
Actually took ur advice now my prodigy is smooth as butter thanks bro great content
That’s awesome my friend! I am glad it helped and thanks for letting me know ! And definitely let me know after you shoot it! If you haven’t already.
@@americantrucker9813 definitely man
After installing the parts from the EGW kit, my slide is dragging on the disco big time. Feels like crap. As of now, I'm attributing it to either too much tension on the center leg of the spring or too tight a fit of the disco through the frame hole. Pushing down on the disco it's very stiff and is clearly catching. I noticed that the stock disco is very highly polished and is almost smooth at the tip, unlike the EGW which was untouched. I did make the EGW the same dimensions as the stock disco, but I think it needs more taken off. Hopefully, I can tune that out today without any mods to the slide. (BTW, the trigger reset is crazy strong right now. Almost too much, so I'm comfortable with adjusting the center leg a bit.) Thanks!
If I were you I’d run the disconnector that works or continue to modify the EGW disco. Disconnectors are different specs across many different manufacturers, EGWs are different from Wilson and so on. I also learned this the hard way what I purchased a new disconnected that wasn’t working properly. The problem with mine was it was too short to engage the slide. If you relieve the pressure on your disconnect, you will lose your positive reset, so personally I wouldn’t take much weight off your disconnector spring. I’d Recommend using your old disconnector honestly but if you’re like me and you just have to make it work than make sure the height of the Disco Stem matches the old one, and the width. The slide operating will natural a Polish, the disconnector.
@@americantrucker9813 Yeah, thanks for the tips. I'll start by more closely matching the profile of the stock disco, and go from there. I matched the width/shape of the stock disco but didn't really consider the overall length which could have a big effect.
@@baxrok2. you’re welcome and also replacing the disco, sear, & Hammer very often will change the trigger travel. So if you have an Atlas trigger tuned with little to no Pre-Travel & Over-travel it may not Break and or Reset so you’d just need to Push your pre travel tabs back to factory & loosen the over travel screw and than Tune if accordingly
@@americantrucker9813 Yes, thanks. Honestly, I was expecting the trigger travel/feel to change even more than it did with the EGW upgrade. But, I wasn't expecting to have problems with the disco! lol Ya' never know.
@baxrok2. It is certainly interesting how the same parts for the same gun can have so much variation in tolerances across manufacturers and sometimes the same manufacturer will put out parts with different tolerances! But i’d say the most important job the disco has is to match the whole in the disco floor to prevent debris getting into the Ignition kits and to Not create allot of Slide friction, I have a video showing how to put the marvel cut or disco ramp in your slide to prevent disco Friction if you haven’t already ramped your slide but if you don’t like a positive reset than you can eliminate friction by reducing spring pressure. My sear spring pressure is probably 30% pressure on the Sear & 70% on the Disconnector/Trigger bow, so out of the 2.5lbs trigger so 1.75lbs on the trigger & .75lbs on the sear and it allows a safe but light trigger with little to no Pre-travel, little to no over-travel and a positive reset. As opposed to the trigger barely returning & reseting like many Aftermarket AR-15 triggers.
Yep. I put a slight 20-degree chamfer on the lower edge of the breach face using my end mill (not a big dremmel guy-but you do you), extending maybe 4-5mm back, and paired with heavier mag springs, my 4.25 runs FLAWLESSLY. I’ll swap to the EGW forged hammer/sear/disco and goto a 19# mainspring (maybe eventually a tool-less guide rod), but I don’t feel those are ‘musts’, but instead just added peace of mind on those impact parts.
@@msh441 use what you got my friend! I would recommend a 17 pound main spring or lighter. There’s really no need for a 19lbs mainspring for a 9mm. 19lbs is standard for 45acp. I run a 13lbs mainspring. The tooless guide rod isn’t a big deal I ran the original in my 4.25 inch but I did put a atlas tooless guide rod in my 5inch and it’s nice for looks and tearing it down without tools. It makes it easy to swap recoil springs. I run all EGW internals and a 8lbs Wolf recoil spring if I’m not mistaken. I definitely highly recommend the atlas IDPA Ambi safety’s. Or the wider Standard Ambi safety’s. They add an incredible amount of stability when shooting.
I think you might be confusing the mainspring, and the recoil spring, @ . 17# is stock for the 4.25 9mm, and a 12-13# recoil spring (10-11# on the 5”). Bumping up to a 19# mainspring adds a touch of trigger weight, but ensures detonation on those crappy hard primers we’re seeing everywhere at the moment.
The Springfield prodigy comes with a 19lbs mainspring & some say it’s actually 23lbs but at min 19lbs and a 12lbs recoil spring for 4.25 inch and a 10lbs for 5inch . The mainspring is the spring in the mainspring housing which engages the hammer strut. I run a 13lbs mainspring. I’m not at all confused. My 13 lbs mainspring has no issue with light primer strikes. But regardless to each his own, I like my set up it has run reliably over 20,000 rounds in the 4.25 inch and about 12,000 rounds in the 5 inch both set up very similarly.
Just going by what I was told by EGW @@americantrucker9813. I should’ve know not to question a master.
Just going by what I was told by EGW @@americantrucker9813. I should’ve know not to question a master.
How’s the polished finish holding up? Seems like it really is stainless vs the carbon steel that Springfield said
It holds up as well as any polished gun I own. It just takes some care but all of my guns do. I’m not sure I just know you can polish any type of steel. I’ll say the prodigy Frame and slide are made extremely well ! And it’s an amazing gun and the price is unmatched for what you get.
I assume that one has to be careful not to alter the disconnector ramp too far or you would run the risk of the pistol being able to fire out of battery?
@@tfrank328 no, that won’t result from removing too much material. if you remove too much it can cause an issue feeding but you would have to remove a lot of material and there’s no need. You’re simply just removing enough to clear your disconnector, it is easier and smoother for your disco rail to press down on the disconnect than for it to catch it with the edge & overcome that friction and than press down. I’ve seen some that don’t have the Marvel cut and aren’t bad & I’ve seen many almost get stuck open on that disconnector. On the 1911, it would be just about impossible to fire out of battery. it isn’t until the slide is all the way forward that the disconnect can reset into the slide cut at the rear of the disco rail. Not to mention the hammer itself can’t fall until the slide is forward.
Thank you so much again bro! This was super helpful. Mine is super smooth the only time it gets held up on the disconnector is when I have the trigger depressed so I can feel the reset. As soon I lighten up on the triggger the slide will go forward. Or even if I shake the gun it forward. But I’m going to try this and to polish some parts to see if that’ll help
Well, I can say for certain that when you press the trigger that is actually increasing the spring pressure against the disconnector, so you can definitely either put in the ramp or light in the middle leaf on the sear spring Spring but if you are like me and you like a really positive reset then try the ramp first I personally like the trigger to be shoving forward and also there is a balance and I have found that to be about 3.5 lbs I’d say 65% of that weight is on the left leaf spring which is on the sear and then the other 35% is on the middle leaf which is the disconnector any more than that and it will be sluggish for no reason but I am glad I’m able to help you like I said this is why I do this, I don’t get paid or sponsors I’m a working man I don’t care to make money off of TH-cam. I just like to help when I can.
@@americantrucker9813
Yeah I think once I do that and polish it up
I’m hoping I’m good to go. I’m taking it out tomorrow to put some rounds through it for the first time. I’m the same way I have to have a good positive reset or else it just throws me off. We’ll that’s really nice of you man cause it’s hard finding seen good advice. I got a taste of that trying to gets a local gun smith to look at it for me haha. I should have known I’m better off to do it myself like everything else haha. I do HVACR so I usually like to work on my own stuff rather it’s trucks, guns and what ever else! I learn so much off TH-cam haha. But I can tell you now one has gone above and beyond like you trying to help
Nobody will ever care about your things like you do it’s sad I know but most people don’t take pride in their work. I’m a Owner Operator truck driver and I had to become a good mechanic just to stay in business because people will rip you off and charge 3 and 4x their estimated and than the works half ass’d so your left with gambling your hard earned money on people or become self efficient and no matter how hard it is or how bad it sucks only you will suck up that pain and torque that pain in the ass bolt to spec because anyone else would have said it’ll be fine it’s not mine ! But I didn’t know you haven’t shot it yet. I will tell you these prodigy’s can be Tuned okay, barley operating, or not at all so don’t let it get you down you might have a Runner or you may need a 500 round break in and if it isn’t running good I have steps you can take to Tune it Properly and get it running smooth and if tuned it is more reliable than any handgun I’ve ever shot and I’ve got some nice ones lol but the point they just need to be tuned like any car or truck but once you do that it’s a ZR1 Corvette you’ll see. Well I appreciate the kind words and I wish you luck my friend and enjoy your weekend and shooting !! Let me know how it goes !
@@americantrucker9813
Exactly I was just talking about this with a customer of mine. I’m a a small business owner and it’s just crazy to my the lack of pride people take in there work and get away with it not to mention charge too dollar while they at it. For something you could probably do yourself but people are always to scared to dig into and figure it out. It’s always nice to meet someone like minded l these days haha. Yeah I’m sure once I get some rounds through it it’ll help smooth it all out. I didn’t get a chance today it’s been wind and rain here in ABQ today. Oh yeah I’ve seen your videos on how reliable you have gotten it to and that’s my goal. I pretty much copied your build same pID light and Altas trigger and egw kit. I’m waiting on Holosun comp red dot but just running a 507c for the mean time. Also saving up for the Cheely grip. Your build is perfect haha. Thanks again man and I hope your having a good weekend
@American Trucker as an VW Master Automotive Technician I have seen hacks and people not doing work correctly and having to go back behind them and make it right for a customer. Good on you sir for learning the trade to be able to be self sufficient and avoid the hacks.
I fell in love with The prodigy as it was an affordable double stack 1911. Mine ran perfect for one magazine and I was in love. The next it started to not fully return to battery. All the videos I can find online I’ve been delving into and learning as it’s my first 1911 style pistol. After adjusting my ejector and polishing the feed ramp and the disconnector. I’m waiting to get back to the range and see how the gun runs now
Did your Atlas come with the marvel cut as well or did you do it yourself? Thanks for the video.
Yes, the atlas comes with the marvel cut. And I should add I would do no such thing to such an expensive firearm. I’ve made material modifications to the atlas. Just some cosmetic upgrades. And I had to cerakote their grip module because the DLC coding wore off so very fast. Definitely the weakest DLC coating I’ve ever seen.
@@americantrucker9813 I did the marvel cut to my 1911 myself with a file and it is as smooth as butter. Does most 2011 have the marvel cut as well, the reason why they’re so smooth? Thanks again.
It is definitely an improvement! That is why I recommend it but I would imagine that the higher end 1911s & 2011s have it but I don’t know. I do know it would cost money to do it and most places are all about making money. So some probably don’t.
@@americantrucker9813 Thanks for your time replying back.
You’re very very welcome, my friend that is why I do this! I am no expert. I just try to help out my fellow Americans!
What # recoil spring and # main spring did you use?
I still use the factory recoil spring and a 13lbs mainspring be warned that these mainsprings even from the best companies are not always what they say ! I bought 2 from atlas and 2 from CCGuns and 3 from EGW and only 2 were 17Lbs 4 were 19lbs and 1 was 13lbs but the lighter the better in my opinion and I don’t have issues with light strikes
Would you say this is a good option instead of having it marvel cut?
@@mr3xklusiv this is the marvel cut.
Where did you get the grip for the prodigy?
Cheely custom gun works or just type in Cheely 2011 grips ccgw.com I think
Can you completely mess up the gun doing this, or take off to much metal?
I highly doubt you would be able to unless you were trying to mess it up. But anything is possible. If you don’t think it’s something your capable of than I recommend don’t try. You can have a local gun smith do it for you. Or leave it factory. If your chasing a Super smooth slide that feels like a 6,000 custom gun than The marvel cut & tuning your Hammer/slide overcocking is the ticket In my opinion. It make the action silky smooth like it’s on ball bearings
@@americantrucker9813 Hey man thanks for the reply; I've changed out the springs in the gun, tooless guide rod, fire control kit. I'm no acclaimed gun smith, I would feel better about it working with a file, I'm just curious if there are dimensions I should follow? Your video makes sense, but I'm an engineer and um well, I need more details LOL.
@jonathantrumpower9316 lol well the Goal is to have the tip of your Disconnector Rail on the bottom of your slide to clear the Disconnector & because these guns are mass produced the tolerances vary so it will depend entire on your Disconnector. The Disconnector Spring pressure control your trigger return/reset if you Like a Positive reset (which a strong reset also increases trigger safety with light triggers) as I do than the marvel cut is Definitely the way to eliminate the Disconnector drag simply start removing the material and then check to see if it clears the face of your Disconnector would be the safest way to do it. If you were unsure, I can tell you this you would have to remove an incredible amount of material to damage this firearm or to cause issues and there’s no possible way you could do that if you are checking and stopping when it clears the disconnector.
Cheely grip? Did you have to do any modifications?
Yes it’s the cheely L2 aluminum grip and no modifications required but if I could go back I’d have gotten the E2 grip so if your looking to get a cheely grip I’d recommend the E2 grip but they are all great and well worth it you can put them on any STI 2011 style gun
@@americantrucker9813 why the e2 over the L2?
The L2 is perfectly fine I’m sure if you like the way your prodigy is now you’ll like the L2 but I personally just love the E2 so much more they ergonomics are much better my Atlas Nyx came with an Aluminum E2 grip and it’s definitely my favorite but that’s just my opinion I guess it will depend on you. Fun fact every Single Atlas gunworks handguns come factory with the Aluminum E2 grip so I think that says something about it
What grip is that on the atlas? And would it fit on the prodigy? And how did u got that finished on the prodigy?...
Atlas gun works alpha grip it’s only available by buying an atlas firearm and yeah I have a shirt with it on the prodigy
Why not just put polishing compound on and rack the gun a hundred times like the old school gunsmiths? I’m not a gunsmith, so I’m just wondering if there’s a good reason not to on the 2011 style gun.
Well I’m not exactly sure what specific friction you are talking about trying to eliminate if you mean, put polishing compound on the disco rail You could rack it 100,000 times and it’s not going to remove enough material to eliminate this friction, the marvel cut is the very best way to eliminate slide & disconnector drag and it makes a Dramatic difference and Will immediately makes your slides action smoother & in doing so will help promote reliable feeding and function. I don’t invent the Marvey Cut I’m just sharing it with you guys. The best gun builders & The most expensive 2011s have the Marvel Ramp cut already so that should tell you it must be worth the time.
@americantrucker9813 I've watched alot of your videos and read about of your replies and I have to say, thank you for one making these videos. And also thank you for taking the time to ACTUALLY read and reply to your watchers and in a professional way. I see so many guys make videos and look at they're following like numbers. Just wanted do say that, NEVER STOP, NEVER QUIT!
Would it be wise to do this to my alpha foxtrot?
It honestly is up to you my friend, i cannot tell you what you should or shouldn’t do I can only give you the information I know and the marvel cut is an excellent upgrade for any 1911/2011 the only thing that would stop me from doing it is if the firearm is a Collectors item in which I wouldn’t do any modifications but in your specific case I don’t see any cons the marvel cut will only increase the Function, reliability, and I’d wager increase your desire to shoot it. It’s something that makes a very pleasant improvement.
@@americantrucker9813 love your videos and the way you’re willing to document and share soo much on the success you find and have with altering your double stacks, you’re doing the whole scene a service and for that i thank and salute you brother
WOW! You really just eyeballed that with the Dremel. You do understand there’s some math to the degree the angle should be at. Also, some gunsmith’s modify the disconnector too.
Grinding down the disconnector isn’t something I’d recommend. And It’s not rocket science my friend. Luckily for me I didn’t invent the wheel here, I simply took a tried & true upgrade and applied it to my own & share my personal opinions & experience. I’m sorry that it wasn’t to your liking.
The upgrade is a great idea, I have marvel upgrades on all my 2011s. But I sent them to a Gunsmith who measured them and did the work. By all means it’s your gun do with it how you like?
@dcuellarjr there’s nothing wrong with sending it to the gunsmith, but this upgrade is not that difficult or complicated and does not require a skilled gunsmith. Many guys simply do not have access to an affordable gunsmith, but still would like to enjoy upgrading and learning that is what I do here I learn and I share.
Can you show the after
Yeah no problem
Short uploaded.
Remove all MIM parts, especially the disconnector and extractor, and put in either EGW or an Xtreme kit and it will run like a scared rabbit.
My prodigy never had an issue with the disconnect until I put egw in it. It runs fine but feeling it catch when I rack the slide is annoyinf
@jedeckert9525 the marvel ramp honestly is worth doing the upgrade. I wouldn’t recommend it if it wasn’t. And I simply just took what made the atlas so good and tried to apply it to the prodigy and read the comments. The guys that have actually done this upgrade couldn’t be happier with it. And the disconnector is not something that needs to be changed unless there is an issue. These parts are mil spec so they are not fine tuned to your firearm. if I were you, I would just put the OEM disconnector back into it or do the marvel cut. The Marvel cut will also solve the problem with that new Egw disconnector.
Will this void your warranty??????
I can’t answer that my friend, but my guess would be yes indeed any serious modification could avoid your warranty, but I would say as long as your gun is squared away( no major manufacturing defects) then the warranty isn’t going to do much good these guns are tanks and will last forever, with the exception of the polymer grip that it comes with, but I don’t see why modification to your slide would affect the warranty on the polymer grip but it’s probably just best to assume the warranty is void upon modification.
@@americantrucker9813Thanks brother.
@@americantrucker9813By the way, you do know this is called the 'Bob Marvel' disco cut, right? Nighthawk used to do it to all their guns, then they stopped all of a sudden.
You know that's the part that picks up new cartridges out of the magazine, right? You don't want to take off too much.
Of course, did you watch the video ?
thanks
Any problems clambering rounds after done
To the contrary, it improves feeding and reliability just as the title says
Man I wanna do this but I'm afraid at the same time.. did your over hammer mod and that worked very well. If I do this how far back do you go??
@vonowens3450 you don’t have to go back very far at all. Honestly, I’d say go back in an inch your entire goal is to make sure that your disco rail goes over top of your disconnector. You can make the ramp as short and steep as you want. basically your disco rail is hitting a ledge right now you’re trying to remove
That ledge and create a ramp which creates much less friction. if I believed it took a great deal of precision and skill I wouldn’t recommend people do this, but this is a pretty nominal upgrade that provides outstanding benefits immediately noticeable. Just check out the comments every single person that has done. This has been super happy with the results.
Also take your barrel out and hand test any and all ammo you use to make sure it slides into and out of chamber easy, my prodigy barrel was reamed very tight and I ended up finding that out when trying new ammo & comparing that to my Atlas Nyx which is for any & all ammo the atlas was true to that claim and the chamber was reamed to fit all ammo tested. The prodigy runs so much smoother after the chamber reaming. After everything I’ve done combined the gun literally doesn’t fail, only the ammo can and I haven’t had that happen since using Winchester junk ammo but even that ammo runs incredibly well I’m assuming because the Hammer hits harder than many striker fired guns and Winchester notoriously has hard primers
Did it glad I did... so much smoother... might go a little more
Use a stone I would imagine you’ll have better control of the material you remove
Why not just replace the main spring that is way oversprung from the factory with the EGW kit that is causing the disconnector to push up against the slide? That way you replace the MIM parts and don't have to hack your slide up? 2 birds 1 stone
Lighting the spring pressure on the disconnector is a cheap fix with downsides like weak trigger reset. Send your question to Atlas Gun Works. Infinity. And many other quality builders whom use the Marvel cut. I Personally love the Marvel cut and I’ve done it to all my 1911s and the improvement is substantial. It makes the slide so smooth and increases reliability helping a consistent Feel when shooting and helps feeding. When you shoot allot your gun will get Dirty and without the marvel cut the Friction continues to build and can cause malfunctions. With the Marvel cut the more you shoot as the Lube dries out and the carbon build your slide will still be smooth. I’m not telling anybody to do it. Do whatever you want to do. I only gave it a shot because I trust That Atlas Gun Works wouldn’t do that to a $6000 gun for no reason. They are competition shooters, and longtime builders. So I personally chose to copy them.
Hey man hope all is well! I wanted to give you an update on the gun! It’s running so much better after everything you helped me do! I have about 500 rounds through it but I’m still playing with spring weights and Shit. A 8lb recoil spring isn’t enough to push the slide forward but it’s runs well with a 9lb recoil spring. Once I get some rounds through it and it gets dirty it will have one or two failures to feed. I’m running a 19lb main spring that came with the egw kit. Should I try swapping it out for a 17lb main spring?
I would recommend lighter main spring most definitely and the Marvel cut but that is a big decision but the mainspring will help
Thank you for the update I’m working so I will give a better reply tomorrow
@@americantrucker9813
The marvel cut helped a ton!Also polishing the hole that disconnector runs through. Sweet I ordered a 17lb so I give that a go. No worries bro your always great about replying! I really appriciate it
Well I appreciate that allot and the marvel cut is definitely a must for me at least and once you eliminate all that friction your gonna be set. Try finding friction with your gun completely dry no Lube and maybe make marks with a marker and see where it wears the marker and you’ll know where to work on reducing friction
@@americantrucker9813
I will defiantly give that a try next! And the marvel cut really helped and polishing everything up. Once I get it tuned in it just might be my new favorite haha. How many rounds do you have through yours now?
Or you can send it back to Springfield, and get it back in about two weeks, warranty intact.
Send it back for what ?
Springfield armory doesn’t upgrade your gun under warranty. They fix it to standard specs. As the title of the video reads it’s an upgrade. Like putting in a aftermarket trigger or such
Someone done that to my double stack and it will no longer feed reliably, I had to change the slide
@@paulcartmel1373 someone done that to your double stack? I don’t understand? so you’re saying somebody broke into your house and ruined your slide by doing a marvel cut incorrectly? Or you’re saying you gave your gun to somebody to do a marvel cut that didn’t know how to do a marvel cut? The marvel cut has been around for a long time and it doesn’t ruin anything, it improves reliability by removing friction and creating a more reliable feeding.
@@americantrucker9813 before I bought it, it was used and I did not notice it before buying
@@americantrucker9813 hahaha bro good reply :p
If you remove to much it will not pick up the next round from the magazine!!
A dremel??????????? REALLY???????????????????
@@kriswittlieff9586 to each his own. Do yours however you’d like. Mine works flawlessly.
Hmmmmm
This is cringe worthy, please stop!
That slide is ruined and will have feeding issues. Get training if you want to continue doing work like this.
Also live ammo on your bench is a recipe for disaster.
Lmao. Message from a dead man according to you. Those are your opinions (I fought for you to have and share them btw ) but they aren’t Facts. You’re the problem with this country. Entitlement, disrespect, & you’re simply a snob. Why don’t you try to lecture you children but outside that mind your own business. The slide isn’t ruined & runs flawlessly as does 1000s of others who’ve done this upgrade. So to assert Your opinions as Fact in a disrespectful manner shows that you truly are a Fool. Facts don’t care about your feelings.
Bro shut ur mouth u asshat
@@americantrucker9813 hahahah bro good one :p
7k gun and holding light smh
Am I somehow supposed to know what it is you mean? If you’re going to hate and try to insult somebody try using full sentences.
Why not just put a lesser powered strut spring in they said the prodigy hammer strut spring is way over sprung
Removing sear spring pressure is part of tuning these guns but for this particular fork (the middle of the sear spring) that pushes both our trigger & disconnector so if you like a Good Positive reset than removing spring pressure isn’t the way to go. And if your were talking about the Mainspring it’s already has a Light mainspring.
@@americantrucker9813 ok so u already changed your mainspring, what weight i think i ordered a 19lb will that be a good weight
@KillerBudda1418 19lbs is super heavy. Go as light as you can find, mines 13lbs. 17lbs are okay but allot of springs have inconsistent weights I have 3 17lbs spring that are all different. Your prodigy came with a 19lbs spring
@@americantrucker9813 really damn man i bought a 19 thinking the prodigy was heavier thanks for letting me know brother
@KillerBudda1418 your welcome, and Atlas gunworks has them very cheap.
I prefer a hand file
Nice I’ve heard a few others say the same thing I’ll have to try that ! Thanks
Same. I only use the rotary to buff the finish. Always hand file.