Bose L1 Repair
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ก.ย. 2024
- Today I cover repairing a Bose L1 Compact that would not power on. I've had a a lot of requests from people wanting to ship me their units for repair from all over the world. As much as I would like to help you, it's not something I can do at this time.
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This was a surprise and nice to see someone working on a Bose ! and so yes I have a question ?. Bose are not easy to get hold of and seem to hide any people to actually talk to ( it's all drop down boxes crap ) so dare I ask where would you get a complete board of which I think there are two as my Bose L1 8 like to switch off when it feels like it and might run for an hour or maybe five minutes and Bose checked it said ( nothing wrong ? ) so just in case it's viable it makes sense to change both boards or whichever controls the overload sensor ( which is what a layman would assume is the dodgy part ) . I have seen lots of complaints from Bose users with this problem and I love my Bose BUT ! it's serous problem in the middle of a gig ! . Thanks for the Vid it's clear calm and concise soooo rare these days . Regards Kenny. ps Looks like you be the next big thing for Bose with your own Bose repair shop judging by the comments .
This is a Very good video.
Thanks for sharing!
Can you please post up the circuit diagram for this L1 compact? Also please mark the location of the diode that you fixed? Thanks!
elektrotanya.com/bose_l1_compact_system_service_manual.pdf/download.html#dl
I don't remember which diode it was, might have been D1 or D2. I do remember it was somewhere around transformer T1. This was many years and many many repairs ago. Hope that helps.
wish you had this as step by step
Unfortunately I'm not very good at filming step by step repairs. Plus, I'd much rather put some info out there and those that are adept at figuring these types things out, will. I have no interest in giving instructions on technical repairs like this to complete novices because they would like end up in trouble and possibly seriously hurting themselves.
Hey, appreciate this excellent video. Any thoughts on bass and lower tower no sound. Get a ticking sound in lower speakers. All of the power supply boards have a dark coating on D501.
Have you got a link for the schematics? Thanks
My Genelec 1031a went south last week. Broadband howl around 600hz 90db even with no input plugged in. Been powered on for years.
Sounds like an oscillation. Could be a ceramic or film cap has failed on a transistor amp stage. Certain ones are put in to prevent oscillation. Could also be a driver transistor failure or any number of things really. The key is to isolate at what point in the circuit it's happening. Start at the final power amp stage and work backwards.
Hello. Bose does not repair L1 model 1. Thank for the video. I am looking for repair in Europe. Have you the schematics of L1 model 1 classic?
Very helpful! Thank you 😊
Thx for the video!
My 2nd channel is cutting out. When I turn up the volume it starts crackling noises and doesn't get very loud. It doesn't completely cut out just the volume. Do you have any suggestions?
My Bose L1 Model 1 died after 13 years. I called Bose and found no support. Called Sweetwater, no support and they said "hey you got 13 years out of it." I wonder if this is their response to a '62 Fender Bassman Amplifier? This is professional audio. Bose should support it. They don't. I found great support with ALR Electronics in Pittsboro/Chapel Hill, NC. $300 and I back up and running. Search them on google and call Mark. You will be glad you did.
Hello. Can you fix my T1 tonematch mixer? Its operating on it's own and I can't control it. Please help. Thanks!
Thanks for the video. No sound comes out of the low speaker anymore, but there is still sound from the high speakers. Which circuit board is the problem? Or which connections? Thank you! All the best, Inge from Amsterdam
I'd suspect the amp for the low speaker module. Could be the power going to it or the amp section itself. I can't give much more info than that. I stopped working on Bose several years ago.
hi have the exactly same problem with mine but I can't found where buy the components can you tell me where I can buy ? thank you
I order my components through Mouser or DigiKey.
Hello I have bose l1 first model and it does not have output sound at all
I have a dead L1. No amp shop near me will fix it
Hi can u help me my L1 compact also have same problem where can I buy power ic of these or gave parts no.
I have an L1 Model 1 and just the phantom power lights come on and nothing else is working. I opened her up and it seems nothing is powering up. Any ideas where to start?
The switching power supply. Most of this stuff, you'll find the problem in the power supply.
Engineered Obsolescence. SLOW CLAP FOR BOSE ... AGAIN!
I plugged a cable in the wrong place and my PA made a strange noise and the blue lights turned pink/purple and orange. Now nothing works. Any advice?
What size is the bass speak on jack? Ours needs to be replaced
Hi
I have bose L1 and the problem is that the audio output is intermittent and the signal led is on off on off also.
Please i need help.
Thanks
Thanks so much for the video. My LI has developed the dreaded 60hz hum. I thought I needed a direct box, but it had no effect. The hum is independent of gain or volume. Pretty loud too. Any idea where I should look first ?
Bro. 1st. Just check and clean a soft brush the speaker pin connector ! Then trying again if there hum sound if still the hum try a electronic contact cleaner that's case scenario in my L1 a hum noise !
Can you tell me how the drivers are wired and what ohm the 2 column speakers total on the PS-1 ? Thx
Sorry. I cannot, it's been a long time since I worked on one of these.
Volume control of my l1 compact loose i should i do or replace?
Is there a nut securing in? Maybe that just needs to be tightened?
I don't recall how they are attached. I haven't worked on anything Bose in several years.
Thank you for the video. I have the Ps1 and loved it until the power issue you address in your video struck my unit. I have no experience in electronic repair. I see this as Bose realizing they had a big issue with this and their was gonna be a flood of units failing so they come out with a new unit and completely cut ties with the L1. I will give them a lot credit though for offering me as much as a 1,000$ credit towards a new unit. That has to be said. So, i have to ask if you would take on a repair on my Bose tower base power supply issue? I figure if i could get it done for no more than 300$ it would be worth it. The shipping alone maybe too much both ways (not sure where you are located)? but just thought i would ask. I am in the state of Maine. I do have a great deal of interest in doing the repair myself(with a lot of help from TH-cam research) but as you cautioned about in your video, i have no prior experience other than small solder jobs on loose 9v battery connecters in my remote controlled cars over the years.. lol Great video! Thanks again..
Hi David, I'm in Nova Scotia, Canada. I think it would be tough for me to repair it inside your budget, as you say, because of shipping costs. It would likely be fairly reasonable for you to send it to me but shipping costs here in Canada are ridiculous, so getting it back to you could be a challenge. All the same, I will check on a couple options. If you have anyone local who works on electronics, even TV repair, they should be able to fix it since they have to work on switching power supplies all the time. Repairing the Bose is basically the same thing.
@@amp_mechanic Hey their... thanks for the reply. Ill probably end up starting the search for an electronic repair guy around here then. I could even direct him to your video to save whoever i find some time. Thanks again my friend to the North. Btw im also a guitar player. I play a Taylor T5, Martin and a 83 lespaul that i bought with a few seasons of lawn mowing money i earned when i was twelve. 950$ bucks back then for a LesPaul standard. Thanks again
@@davidsmith9795 Right on, thanks for sharing! Best of luck!
Thanks for the info I have F1 821 I have taken it to a repair shop but it seams to be a sealed unit. Have u ever opened one I can’t find any info anywhere and Bose won’t help tks
Everything Bose is pretty sealed up. If it was put together, it's possible to take apart. The only question is how much time and how much will end up broken. Unless Bose never intends for them to be serviced, there is a method to get them apart but you have to be will to take a time and figure it out. Many repair shops won't if they are busy, or the bill will could be large.
I have a Bose L2S1 and a Chinese cord extension blows making this Bose the lights still and not working any more!!.. do you now were I can find schematics?? Thanks for any help!
Just do a google search and try altering your search terms. But there may not be one out there. There is one for the L1 Compact, if it's close enough in circuitry design you can use a schematic for a different model. You should be able to figure out pretty quick if you're inside the unit already. If nothing else, check your voltage rails, right from where AC comes in and both the in and out of any diodes or rectifiers. I haven't worked on a ton of these but with most things, the problem ends up being power supply related. Not much info but I hope that helps.
Hi David
Can you explain how to get inside a L1 compact to carry out a repair.
Hi Chris, Jason here. The short answer is, it's somewhat difficult to explain and to get apart. It's been a bit since I did this one but, I believe you have to remove the top and bottom caps first. The top, remove the bolts holding the handle. The bottom you can see the screws. The parts fit on tight so you'll have to wiggle it around lots to get them apart. You'll have to remove the output board(or input?) on the rear and the screws for the internal plate. Then all the screws and bolts to open the main box up, it splits in half. Note and unplug the connectors as you go. Just be patient, and take it one step at a time and plan on removing just about every bolt and screw you can see. If you are diligent and take your time you can figure it out. And if you can't, this isn't the type of repair you should be attempting. As stated, the power supply is exposed inside and could have lethal voltages, be sure you know what you are doing before opening it up and messing with it.
Did Bose ever come up with a more lasting fix for these units? I have one that I used about 20 times.. failed just outside of warranty. I'll just trash it unless Bose can do a lasting repair. Thanks!
No idea and I'm not sure if they all have the same issue. I know there are a lot of broken ones. But you can send it to one of their repair locations. Pretty sure it's flat fee repair.
@@amp_mechanic - I guess I'd just send the base unit, correct? (thanks for the response!)
@@zapphoddbubbahbrox5681 I'd assume so. I'm sure they will give you instructions when you contact them.
Do you know how to repair. Yesterday I used my bose L1 Pro 8 for first time (was new) for about 4 continuous hours and stop working, and now I'm trying to turn on, and there's only a light signal bottom "phantom".
What it means? What can I do?.
Thanks!!!
Hey did you figure that out. Mine is doing the same thing. No power just the phantom blinks. Then 3 lights blink
Bose does repair them for $250 flat fee.
Good to know. US or Canada?
Hi I'm having problems with my L1 the volume is going up and down by itself. Every time I connect my aux cable there's static even when the music is playing. Do you have an idea what the issue might be?
Also I agree with your comment about Bose I have two systems and they should last longer for the amount of money it cost.
Bose Life Style 48 and Life Style 900 both remote control just doesn't work and also static issues.
Thank you for your help.
I'd suspect a bad pot or more likely the cable connecting from the control and input board. Or the connector itself.
@@amp_mechanic Thank you, but the static still can hear with out the aux cable.
My L1 Model One has numerous fractures in the plastic base module. Do you know the type of plastic specific to the base enclosure? Could it likely be an ABS Poylpropelene and what appropriate glue would you recommend for a decent repair? Thanks!
Also, do you know how the base located ten female lead Molex driver plug can be retracted so as to replace it? Either that or I have to figure out how to pull up one of the retracted female leads in the plug itself. I'm tempted to get another Molex and physically bypass it from the tower to stand interface. Thank God I only have $600 or less invested in this overly proprietary ex. of %^&s known as Bose. The module itself works electrically but cannot achieve an electrical connection to the driver tower which also works.
Sorry for the long-windedness but I just don; 't know where else to go with this.
Hi John, I'm not sure what the plastic is, you may be correct. There are a number of options, standard epoxy and superglue are always good standbys. JB Weld also makes a plastic specific epoxy compound. Any of those should work fine. Just be mindful of clearance for reassembly if you have excess hardened glue. And be sure to rough up any smooth surfaces a little with a file and clean them with some isopropyl before gluing.
As far as the molex, bypassing it maybe the best option. Nothing else comes to mind for a solution on that one. I hear on the expletives relating to Bose.....
Good luck!
I wonder about the original model: same issue and when asked about repair, Bose says, "nope." They sold me a new unit for half price, which is OK. Now I have this old unit w a bad power supply which other than that is a nice piece of gear. Possibility of solution?
It's always possible, it just depends on how much you're willing to spend and is that worth it. Power supply wise, I don't think there's a whole lot of difference between generations, there could be some small differences but, it's mainly a packaging difference. Are you located in Canada or the US?
Are you in UK is there someone can fix urs
No I am not. Sorry.
Hey I have a l1 classic and was wondering if you can help me? I turned my system on this afternoon and the signal is not going to my mixer. It was working fine just a few days ago and now it’s not showing any signal. Hold you help me?
There may be something disconnected inside. If you can get it apart, make sure all connectors are properly seated. If that's not it, you need to check the power rails.
Hi, I have a Bose L1 - Model 2 - Powersand 220V.
I would like to convert to 110V.
Is it possible?
Is there a repair kit for this?
Regards
Would make more sense to have a step down transformer separately or something like that?
@@cannibalholocaust3015 What happens is that I have two systems, one 110 and the other 220 for use in music shows. I'm worried about making a mistake at some point and connecting them incorrectly
Can you try to repair my Bose T1 ToneMatch if i mail to you?
Do you know anyone in the Atlanta area that can fix an L1 Model 1? Have one that has what appears to be a very similar issue. Thanks!\
Hello, I need help with my L1 II. It does not sound and the power LED turns red ...
Hi Ruben, sorry to hear you are having trouble. If you have a red LED it may just be a connector that's not seated. It could be a power supply issue but you'll have to open it up to find out. Best of luck.
Same, Ruben! Did you figure it out?
WHAT ARE YOU TALKING ABOUT? DIDODE BURNS OUT AC VOLTAGE GETS THROUGH? THATS THE MOST RIDICULOUS THING I HAVE EVER HEARD.
Would you be interested in fixing one that probably has the same issue?
Depends if you're near me or not. I'm in Nova Scotia. Send me an email and we'll arrange it. Though I'm not really interested in shipping stuff back and forth at this time.
Can u run the system on a Bryston B amp
If you could stuff it all inside or rig it up for external connection after unhooking everything in the Bose, yes I guess you could. Not sure how well it would operate or sound since I believe bose develops their cabinet to compliment the amp, preamp, etc.
Mines the power light not coming on but the 1 and 2 light on need help
If there's still sound, the power LED may just be damaged. If there's no sound you have to determine which power rails have power and which don't before you can asses where to start.
Hello Jason Thanks for your really interesting video. I have an L1 compact which works fine. I'd like to modify it for use with LIPO external battery pack(s) for autonomous operation. Don't want to use alternator nor inverter... need the schematics...been searching but to no avail. Can you help me?
Also, could you tell me what DC levels are supplied to the audio boards from the power supply? Thanks a MILLION for your help. I'm in France and love the L1 compact. Have already made battery cable for the Tone Match unit. Cheers Pierre
Hi Pierre, I don't actually have any schematics for the L1 compact. I can, however, direct you to this website where someone has schematics for the original L1. lensprojects.wordpress.com/2016/08/25/bose-l1-repair/
The power supply for the L1 compact seems to be pretty much the same other than component labeling and layout from what I remember. I can't remember at all what the final DC V rails were, hopefully they are listed on the schematic for you. If not you can look up the data sheets for the components on most of the final DC output and at least get an idea of what range they should be in. Good luck with the project! Sounds like an interesting but tough one.
I have use an inverter battery a AC DC inverter
For years I powered all of my equipment and a busker he in Washington
DC for over 37 years now that the technology has changed is
no need to do that this way you can pick your size battery add 12 V
Hi I am from india I need a sound card for my Bose l1 compacts can you help me
Sorry Anthony, I'm not an authorized dealer or repair shop so I do not have access to Bose parts.
Dude I could seriously use your guidance! I have a Model 1 L2. The sound has been completely cutting in and out at gigs.
The power stays on, the tonematch board is still lit. Sometimes the screen will go blank but still lit up blue. The signal LED lights go yellow, sometimes red on one or two channels. The sound just completely dies, sometimes for a few seconds, sometimes a few minutes. Usually happens at the loudest part of a song.
I’m not tech savvy so any info as to what the problem is would be awesome
It's really hard to say but if it consistently happens at the loudest portion, you may be overloading it with signal. Or that amount of signal is too much for it to handle. I'd double check your gain staging but also sounds like something in the power supply could be weak and can't keep up.
@@amp_mechanic it didn’t always do this, I’ve played at least 200 solo acoustic gigs with it since I bought it a couple years ago. Mostly very low key patio, breweries, dive bars, country clubs, I don’t push it very hard unless it’s a noisy bar or outside. Before I had it, I bought it off a guy who used it weekly as well, so maybe the power supply is getting weak?
@@jonahtran1 It could well be. Contact Bose, depending on your location, it's pretty cheap to have them diagnose it and replace parts.
I knew the great BOSE era, the 802, the made in the USA, really fabulous and legendary. Here it breathes, it stinks of made in china. Research done, BOSE does not have a factory in China, it is all under contract and much too expensive, really too expensive compared to the cost of labor in China, excessive exploitation. In addition sound side ... it is not JBL (the brand of musicians for more than 50 years) brand at the origin of this bass cabinet + column configuration, a concept copied by everyone lacking creativity. The JBL EON ONE / ONE PRO is the benchmark. All the components of very high quality are manufactured by JBL including exceptional speakers which allow a perfect power handling during very long hours. Parameters very often forgotten in the tests (at JBL 100h full volume "torture test" formidable dangerous for the transducers, sweet joke JBL knows his job)
If a diode “shorts” it can let ac through and it can do further damage. If a diode “goes open” it is very unlikely to do any further damage to other components. Just so our terminology is on the same page.
Exactly right. Thanks Matt. I have a very bad habit of just calling everything a short, even when a component fails open. Something I've been trying to correct when talking about this stuff.
Hi, thanks for this video for fixing the Powersuply of the L1 compact. Did you have at anytime the problem of crackling noise on Channel 1 like in this (th-cam.com/video/8QXDUmoqCWo/w-d-xo.html)? And any Idea, how to fix it?
Not other than going through a diagnostic procedure. Could be a connector, opamp, capacitor etc... I've seen them all cause crackling.
I'm having problems with my S 1
I have two of them in the new one that I am output and decreased dramatically
I have to turn it all the way up I've called Bose
I've had it for less than six months
I want to call them back today they seem happy to repair it but I don't know
if I will pay for it I know I must pay for shipping and handling I'll let you know tomorrow
Has anyone had any experience with Bowles repair service or warranties
I'm sure it must be covered under warranty.