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If one comes across my bench, I'll definitely look into it. Thanks!

No difference that I can hear, still sounds great.

@amp_mechanic I recently got the reissue, and the first 400 or so had the old chips in them.. Couldn't find a comparison tho. Thanks!!

It's just something I created with AI prompts.

@amp_mechanic oh wow. Great result!

It's been a while but, I believe there were 3 wires. And yes it is wired to the probe connection on the control board.

Either swap the bias resistor ( you can use a decade box to determine the correct value or just swap until you find the right one) or, like I did with this one, run a couple wires to a pot you mount on the chassis with a resistor to make ad adjustable bias. As far as the measurement and calculation, "Uncle Doug" has several good videos on calculating bias. It explains it better than I could here.

@@amp_mechanic Yes, thank you He poped up today. That was helpful.

Well, there's only 2 wires on each side. One runs to the tip contact, the other to the sleeve. Put one probe on each.

Still applies to checking the tank. Just the driver and recovery stage in the amp will be done with an opamp or some kind of transistor. Good luck.

No it does not. I can't see that it would be any benefit in this situation but I could be proven wrong.

I can't either, if it works don't muck with it. But my comment is based on the group doing plasma cnc with a linux cpu. A/D in and out makes sure a noisy ground line frompermeating the controls. We'll see.

I have a video on finding your best cut parameters. th-cam.com/video/U1Y6IqVog4U/w-d-xo.html

I returned them for a full refund. It just seems odd to go through 3 that all had the same issue to varying degrees.

It would be in the power supply line on the board. LED's would likely be a 3 or 5V line. Check for voltage where the wires connect to the board. If you see voltage either wiring or likely the negative has an issue. If no voltage, work your way backwards through the components until you find it. That last component will be the failure point or just need to be cleaned up. Hopefully that makes sense.

@@amp_mechanic thanks mate

Is it tube driver and recovery? or opamp? A weak recovery tube is a common problem. Check wire on the tank going to rca jack and the little connectors going to the coil on each end. Check the RCA cable going to the amp. If all that is good, you need to figure out if the driver or recovery stage has the weak signal. If you give the tank a wiggle with the reverb turned up, there should be a fairly large splash of sound. If it's low then likely the recovery stage has a problem.

@@amp_mechanic the wires and springs in the tank look good. I did the ohm check from the end of the rca cables. The amp has two EL84 output tubes plus one 12ax7 so I'm thinking there is an opamp inside the chassis. If I take the tank out of the amp and move the springs with my hand, the reverb sounds strong. But with the guitar plugged in and the reverb on 10 it is barely audible.

Everlast Powerplasma 82i

The post processor is available on the ArcDroid downloads page. There's plenty of info out there on how to install it. Then you'll have it in your list.

Great! Glad it helped.

I own this amp and it's a freaking powerhouse. I have had mine for 2 years and the only issue I've had are with the blue led lights on the clean channel. This is just one video on repair. Go try out the amp and see for yourself. It's great for a lunchbox.

I would not let that stop you from getting this amp. You're missing out if you do. Imo

Good to know.

This one did need the shielded otherwise I wouldn't have used it. Some are worse than others. Good you got it fixed for him.

@@amp_mechanic did you try it with the cover back on the amp before adding the shielded wiring?

There may be a ground off or a bleed resistor that has failed. There are so many things that can fail on these amps it's hard to say without going through and diagnosing it. The standby disconnects the high voltage so you need to figure out where or what is bleeding through or not drain the circuit down. Go through the schematic and check all supply nodes.

I think it's long press on the file on the Droid. Or once you get it on your computer use something like G code ripper.

oh,well, pardon me....lmao. 😂

I used this one amzn.to/3WFVCdD

This is the one i buy too

This is the one i buy too

This is the one i buy too

This is the exact one I got amzn.to/3ygTK0C 15.7x11.8X 7.1inch (400x300x180 mm)

thanks a lot :)

Correct. I think so many companies do it this way because of ease. They also don't want to encourage people to probe the high voltage. And it also gives a bit of buffer for those that always want their bias hotter. My thing is that, either way you do it, you do need the plate voltage to calculate the bias and get repeatable results. Biasing to 65mv means nothing unless you use it to calculate the bias. It will usually be a safe number with these amps but the feel and sound can be wildly different. And on the resistor value, I would say that the value being off isn't that big a deal since you can account for it in your calculation. Or at the very least, that will be a static value you will always be measuring through. But in terms of just going by the 60mv thing, you are correct.

Find a kubota dealer near you or look online for a replacement key. I'm not sure if the B series key is universal but I suspect it might be. Short of that, a locksmith should be able to make a mold from the cylinder of the ignition switch to have a new key cut. Or replace the whole ignition switch. The new one will have keys.

Likely they are just worn. If they have a lot of hours, time for a new set.

@@amp_mechanic that’s what I’m hoping. Ordered a new set a little while ago. Thanks you

Go around to any of your local guitar shops, at least one of them will need to have someone they use that can replace a switch. Actually any electronics place for tv's stereos, cell phone repairs would be able to do it. Just a matter of finding someone who will. Good luck.

@@amp_mechanic thanks for the help I appreciate it!

Awesome Peter! Glad it was a help.

Hi James, yes I just pulled the old shock mount out and put the new one in. This one was doing a similar thing, capsule would flop all over. I think the material they used just got super flexible over time and became gummy so it provides no support. But this one hadn't been doing it long because there were no marks at all. If it sounds fine, and there are no blemishes on the capsule film, it's likely fine. The swap is pretty straight forward if you take your time and are careful. Good luck!

@@amp_mechanic Oh ok, it was flopping too huh. Good to know then. Do you think I need to worry about the technical side, like the resistance/continuity stuff? So basically the shockmount shouldn't have any resistance, and the one you had that didn't work only had it, because it was defective right? So, like if I got a new one, I could just test it before I put it on, and it should just read zero resistance/continuity is that it? Is there a way to test for it after it's installed as well? Also, you know that little terminal where the wires are soldered. Do the wires need to be soldered/unsoldered from the terminals, or is it just the capsule side you need to detach the wire, assuming the wire is fine I mean. Also, for the wire, do you know if the new mounts include any spare wires? Thanks for your help dude, means a lot to me! I was thinking also, maybe it would be a good idea to buy a spare shockmount just incase down the road Lawson closes it's doors or something. I mean, I'm hopeful they will keep going, but I was thinking last night, how possible would it be to mod this Mic, or find a capsule mount, if you didn't have the Lawson one? I'm sure it's possible, but not sure what you'd do lol. Were you saying the new one seemed a little shorter also? That sounds like it could help with that flexing/flopping thing over time.

@@jamescassidy4045 I wouldn't worry about it. It was just a one off manufacturing defect. Just install it. I don't believe you need to solder. The wires are soldered on tabs that connect to the capsule with a screw. Remove screw from old, install on new. (I could be wrong about that since it's been a while and I've done other mics since) It's probably not a bad idea to have a spare. Although worst case, you could get another mount and adapt it to work. And yes, new shockmount is shorter. The old ones were too long, the capsule sat very high. Good luck with it!

@@amp_mechanicHey! Thanks, and sorry for the long messages, I think I just got a bit anxious, and overthink stuff sometimes hah. Anyway, the new mount came today, so I’ll hopefully get up to it this weekend. You know, it’s funny, looking at it before, I kinda had that same thought that I wouldn’t need to solder/desolder, or snip any wires, but the instructions actually say that I’ll need to desolder or snip, so we’ll see lol. I’m feeling a bit overwhelmed even reading the instructions right now, as it looks like a lot, but they are very detailed, and once I have it in front of me I’m sure I’ll be fine hah. Hey, can I ask, do you have any recommendations on what to order as far as high quality capsule wire goes? Like type, gauge, and maybe even brand(s)? Basically, I’m just now thinking, it might be good to have some on hand just in case I mess something up, and also, I may even just replace all of them, only because I’m not positive, but when I was testing it at one point, I thought I might have briefly heard some slight intermittent noise or cutting out, but wasn’t the type of thing that was constant or obv. There was just one or two tiny moments where I thought I heard something, and with the capsule clearly having signs that it, and the wires were obv banging / moving around a shit tonne, it’s quite possible one or more of the wires could be slightly damaged, or on its way, so was just a thought, and something I’d like to have on hand anyway, but I’m still just kinda green when it comes to tech work, and I’ve never ordered wire for mics/capsules before. Could you even go up a gauge, or is there a range, or is it always better to stick to the gauge the mic was built with for certain reasons? Thanks man! James

@@jamescassidy4045 Hi James, I can't remember now if removing a wire or two is required. I think you can just remove the old shock mount if you're careful with it. For wire, it's pretty light gauge used. Probably 26 or so but you may want to reference some mic builder forums. There's nothing wrong with going up a size. Some people like to use higher grade wire. I think as long as you go with a decent brand, not the really cheap stuff off amazon, you'll be fine. The really cheap stuff can be ok but it's the insulation that is bad. And usually it's more very fine strands to make up the wire gauge. I tend toward fewer bigger strands or using solid core when the application permits. At the end of the day, don't overthink it. You'll go crazy and spend a bunch of money with not much or no real difference.

I don't have any better advice than, send an email. If I remember correctly, it took Gayle a few days, maybe a week, to get back to me. Keep trying.

Same situation here. I'm wondering now if I'm going to have to figure out a diy solution for the shockmount. Does anyone know the type of material?

@@breakburrito The material is sorbothane. And Mr. Lawson, WILL finally call you back. He sold me a new replacement and offered to put it in at the factory if I didn't feel confident in doing it myself. It's a small operation and they're rather busy.

@@toddwilson8253 Thanks for the info, and optimism! The sorbothane apparently has a finite lifespan. Maybe there is a better material...

@@toddwilson8253 Update. It's been over two weeks and no response from Lawson to my email or phone call. I moved forward with fabricating a solid internal capsule mount and retrofitted an external shock mount to hold the 251. Sad that it had to come to this. I will be wiring up the capsule this week. Hopefully it works.

No, some Cut60's have a HF issue with the ArcDroid. Not all but some. That is unrelated to THC. The internal divider performance varies by machine, same as most other brands. I'd run the Cut60 in your situation, if you end up with the ArcDroid resetting mid cut, you'll know you have an HF issue. There are tons of people running the Cut60 without issue. THC is still in beta and I suspect it will be forever. They don't even advertise it as a feature anymore. Once you get some experience, email ArcDroid with your serial, they will send an unlock code. There may be some back and forth and trying to convince you to just use autolevel but if you persist, they will send it.