Do's & Don'ts. I have been painting cars for 42 years, so Listen up or Read Up Well..... Make sure you do all sanding with Sandpaper grit between 80 to 180 Grit Dry sanding, before you sterilize it with the final clean for coating. Tape up in such a way that its easy to get a hold and to take the tape off, before the stuff hardens. Wear a 3M Respirator when sanding and specially when re-coating. Get a roll of 3/4" & a roll of 1-1/2" 3M Tape. Tape up first using the 3/4" tape and then use the 1-1/2" over. Its easier to outline first with a 3/4" than with a wider tape. Do not use the Blue tape, as its a Low Tack tape that works good for house wall painting. I use the 3M Yellow Tape for Auto Painting. Sand very well around the Faucet and Drain fittings, if you are not removing them. Removing the Drain can cause lots of other Plumbing problems, to avoid this, sand well and tape up. Wear tight fitting gloves. Wear a very tight fitting shirt when you are coating. Your Sleeve and loose shirt will ruin many things for you. Vacuum all the sanding dust immediately. Warm up the bathroom to around 75 to 80 degrees when coating, and warmer soon after coating. Beware of spills. Keeps a large strong tray to contain all liquids and specially the Epoxy. Epoxy and the Catalyst create a chemical reaction when mixed that is highly toxic. So wear a good quality 3M Respirator, not a Dust mask when coating. Keep a fine tipped tweezer handy to pick up any hair or dirt what pops up when coating. Get a Eagle Beak tipped fine tweezer. Keep a couple of cheap touch up brushes from the $ Store, for tiny craters or anything that pops up. Wear Knee Pads or a soft cushion to save your knees. Be careful when Finally using the Heat Gun and specially the heat gun Cord. It can and will touch here and there, pissing you off, and ruining the job in the final stages, as touching up at that point CAN AND MAKE THINGS WORSE. Finally open the bathroom window and install a small exhaust fan or any fan in the reverse direction so it sucks and blows the dust and fumes outside. Take precautions from the get go. Good Luck.
I just finished my third time in using Eckopel epoxy. Here are some tips: 1. Use head lights gear in order to see any fine imperfections so corrections can be made 2. If you want to help your back out, attach a 2 feet pole to the paint handle 3. Use a 32 ounce old cottage cheese/ yogurt cup to pour. I cut about 2 inches down 2/3 around the cup; that will leave a nozzle for pouring. 4.Buy extra epoxy to help with the ease of pouring and spreading the solution. 5. Have a three tier floor protection (it’s messy folks!) first layer: 2 inch green Frog tape with plastic attach to it placed at the base of the the tub. Second layer: An inch behind the the frog tape line, place the brown roll paper-I cut pieces of the frog tape to keep it in place (total of 24 inches from the base of the tub). Third layer: a flatten cardboard box where the containers and pouring cup is placed. 6. Since I glazed the tile surround as well ( my tiles do not go all way to the top). I made sure there was a continuous run of the frog tape when I taped off the top of the tile to ensure there is easy removal. I do remove the the tape as soon as I finish just in case there is a mishap, corrections can be made because the epoxy has not settled. 7. Have the plastic bag opened/several gloves/wet paper towels/wet lint free towels set up near you. While in the midst of the project, you are going to question your existence and how did you get here. The key is to LET THE POURING AND GRAVITY DO THE WORK FOR YOU! The epoxy has a thick honey-like consistency that is hard to move when there is a thin layer. Be deliberate in pouring, slow down just a little-only a little because of the time restraints. For a project like the video, the job would have been easier with more product. I would have had another container to complete the job. I hope this helps anyone because the company’s videos are not realistic they make it seems easier that what it is, then it’s a complete shock once you get started. I wish you all success!
I have not done it but I believe the only way to fix an uneven surface is to sand it. You will have to use very fine sandpaper like starting with at least 500 and going up to finer till it looks smooth (maybe up to 2000). Probably best to call the company first and ask them what they recommend before you do more damage.
I've been looking at doing this as an option during a recent renovation in my own bathroom. (For the purpose of our background, we are building company in the UK and have installed many bathrooms during larger domestic building projects - since 1980.) The reason I entertained this idea was to save time replacing the bath tub, and associated tiling works involved. I have to say, and although I bet there are guys out there who've done a pretty good job at this...I do not see the point in going to this effort in being 'precise' and trying to ensure that a smooth and seamless look is achieved, when essentially, you're working really HARD (and under pressure) to try to achieve a passable result. I have full respect for the work involved and efforts made in this video! I just feel that ultimately it is less pressure for guaranteed gain to replace the whole unit - including the time involved cost. Remove lower layer of tiles, get the bath out = two hours. Replace bath with new, plumb in to existing waste with new trap = 1/2 day - 1 day. Tile down onto bath (assuming you can source same tiles) = 1/2 day. Guaranteed the best outcome. Worst case scenario? You could apply new tiles on top of tiles? Glue Aqua Panels to existing tiles? etc etc Wishing you all the best dudes ;o))0
I understand your perspective. The problem with the cast iron tubs are they are really heavy and jammed tight into the space. I’m working by myself so I would not be able to lift it out and would need to break it into fragments. Then load it into the truck and take it to the recycling center. Then bring a new heavy tub back and find help. I don’t like the newer acrylic tubs they scratch too easy
Just did this last night. I decided to wait on my bottom course of tile until the tub was refinished. Installed and grouted all the rest of the tile. That way, finish would run underneath bottom course of tile. Unfortunately, a stupid bug flew into the epoxy after I went to bed. And there are little hairs in it... not overly visible, but their in there for sure. It looks WAY nicer than before, but it's definitely not perfect. I also did not tape overflow, and no epoxy went into it.
Good job. I had 2 bugs land on my almost finished pour but was able to get them out luckily. I agree it may not look perfect but it is way better than what it did look like and great for the first time attempting it. Nobody except us will notice the imperfections
@@handyhomerepairs Right on. I dug the main body of the bug out today and sanded the rest down a bit with 220 grit. Can't tell there was ever a bug there. Now we'll see how long it holds up.
I keep thinking about sanding imperfections but I’m waiting for a chip or something else major. My kids drop toys and other things on the tub almost nightly and it’s held up lol so it seems to be durable so far.
My first tub was done two years ago-still beautiful, but it has some yellow streaks where the water flows in the tub. The tile surround is In perfect condition. I only use Dawn power wash and soft cloth to clean.
Hmm I will have to look out for the yellow discoloration. Maybe it is the chemical makeup of your water? Do you get the stains on other fixtures or the toilet?
Strange. I know epoxy can yellow with UV or heat but doesn’t sound like either of these two possibilities. Maybe the pH or hardness of the water? I have seen some people talking about yellowing of epoxy grout where the water hits it.
A little research would have done a long way. The manufacture has multiple videos should how to properly use this. The cup that you covered the drain with should have been used to pour the product. If don’t properly you really don’t need the roller
Yes I watched all their videos and they used the cup. The kit also did not include a scooper so I followed their recommendations and made one with duct tape. The roller is not for traditional painting but you use it to spread the material around and even the surface or it will pool in some areas.
It always looks nice when it has been done recently. The trouble starts after a few months. It cracks and peels. Then you have to replace the tub, which you should have done in the first place. BTW, the price of a new acrylic tub is about $ 200. Removing and installing a new tub is much easier and much less work than messing with epoxy.
That is what I’m interested in is the longevity of the product. Mine is a cast iron. I spent a lot of time on the cleaning and scuffing up of the existing surface so hopefully this gives a good bond. I did this about 6 months ago and everything is still good. I was planning on doing am1 year update video to show how it has held up. I have 2 kids that use it daily and the young one is constantly dropping his heavy toys so it is definitely getting tested.
Having rental properties, I've removed a cast iron tub and replaced it with a $30 acrylic I got at a Home Depot auction. It's not the cost of the tub that's the issue. Getting the cast iron tub out was a real pain (we ended up having to break it in two just to carry it down the stairs). I've also painted tubs with epoxies. I'm choosing the epoxy vs. taking out the iron tub this go round.
@@austinbrittabrashears144 I helped my dad take out a cast iron tub many years ago. Same experience, too heavy and we had to break it up with a hammer into easier to handle pieces
@medicmark9683 no bonding paint, just followed the company instructions on cleaning the surface and using the recommend toilet bowl cleaner because it is stronger than most. I also use sand paper to roughen the surface a little even though the company did not mention this step. It has been about 6 months and no issues yet. Still looks great. I have a 5 year old that is constant dropping toys on it so it is getting work out.
I’m not sure if there was internal pressure that caused it to float or if the epoxy is much more dense and just flowed under the edge. It’s worth a try.
I understand the price on this product has gone up a lot compared to 3 to 4 years ago. I can't seem to find a contractor to do. Strictly do it yourself? Did you need to do 2 coats? Sorry. I am not to the end of the video yet.
@susan70003 I did it all myself. This was my first time using the product or resurfacing a tub. I watched the company video. I would recommend watching the pro do it and then non-pro like me lol. It is not as easy as they make it look. It is not difficult but it makes quite the mess. You only need 1 coat for a standard tub. It will do the inside all the top edges and front apron like you can see me do
Yes, thought I’m not sure how long it would last once ingredients exposed to air. They sell a touch up kit but expense for a small patch. I still have some small areas I want to try to smooth with high grit sanding but still afraid to make it worse if I can polish it correctly
@giuliana4287 my tub was cast iron with what looked like the original finish on it so probably porcelain. I scuffed the finished a little with sand paper to make sure there was something to stick to but the manufacturer said it was not necessary
I have heard 5-10 years but there are probably a lot of variables. If you have acidic or alkaline water it will probably stain faster than the original. If it gets direct sunlight epoxy can yellow. If you did. It apply it correctly it could start peeling. If it gets chipped or scratched it could allow peeling to start. I have had mine for almost a year and it is as good as the day installed it.
On scale of 1-10 how frustrating is this process? 1 being mild annoyances 10 being you gaslight your wife for 30 mins because you thought you can hear a toilet being flushed 2 floors up. Thats a joke but you know what im asking right. I'm not sure I want to do this.
Maybe a 6? It did not come out perfect which annoyed me but it is good enough that no one except me would realize. If I did it a second time I think I could do much better. It takes many hours after pouring to continue to keep the epoxy from running into the drain. I had the perfect environment set up. It was probably 1 hour to install and then another 6 hours of checking every 15 mins to an hour. It saved a couple thousand $$$ so that made it worth it. Been there a few months and has held up to several kids in there and dropping things on the surface. There are a couple scratches but nothing major. You can sand and polish them out but they aren’t major enough that I want to potentially cause any other issues
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Do's & Don'ts. I have been painting cars for 42 years, so Listen up or Read Up Well.....
Make sure you do all sanding with Sandpaper grit between 80 to 180 Grit Dry sanding, before you sterilize it with the final clean for coating.
Tape up in such a way that its easy to get a hold and to take the tape off, before the stuff hardens.
Wear a 3M Respirator when sanding and specially when re-coating.
Get a roll of 3/4" & a roll of 1-1/2" 3M Tape. Tape up first using the 3/4" tape and then use the 1-1/2" over. Its easier to outline first with a 3/4" than with a wider tape. Do not use the Blue tape, as its a Low Tack tape that works good for house wall painting. I use the 3M Yellow Tape for Auto Painting.
Sand very well around the Faucet and Drain fittings, if you are not removing them. Removing the Drain can cause lots of other Plumbing problems, to avoid this, sand well and tape up.
Wear tight fitting gloves. Wear a very tight fitting shirt when you are coating. Your Sleeve and loose shirt will ruin many things for you.
Vacuum all the sanding dust immediately.
Warm up the bathroom to around 75 to 80 degrees when coating, and warmer soon after coating.
Beware of spills. Keeps a large strong tray to contain all liquids and specially the Epoxy. Epoxy and the Catalyst create a chemical reaction when mixed that is highly toxic. So wear a good quality 3M Respirator, not a Dust mask when coating.
Keep a fine tipped tweezer handy to pick up any hair or dirt what pops up when coating. Get a Eagle Beak tipped fine tweezer.
Keep a couple of cheap touch up brushes from the $ Store, for tiny craters or anything that pops up.
Wear Knee Pads or a soft cushion to save your knees.
Be careful when Finally using the Heat Gun and specially the heat gun Cord. It can and will touch here and there, pissing you off, and ruining the job in the final stages, as touching up at that point CAN AND MAKE THINGS WORSE.
Finally open the bathroom window and install a small exhaust fan or any fan in the reverse direction so it sucks and blows the dust and fumes outside.
Take precautions from the get go.
Good Luck.
Awesome suggestions. Thank you.
Very informative
I appreciate this information
I watched this and worked on a tub the same day. First time ever doing so and everyone was happy with the work!
Awesome! I did mine a year ago and I’m still happy with it. Still looks like a brand new tub.
DIY'er here... used it for the first time today... did 2 tubs... they look great... will see tomorrow when it's cured...
Awesome. I think I could have done better after using the first one as a “practice”
Is it still holding up
I just finished my third time in using Eckopel epoxy. Here are some tips:
1. Use head lights gear in order to see any fine imperfections so corrections can be made
2. If you want to help your back out, attach a 2 feet pole to the paint handle
3. Use a 32 ounce old cottage cheese/ yogurt cup to pour. I cut about 2 inches down 2/3 around the cup; that will leave a nozzle for pouring.
4.Buy extra epoxy to help with the ease of pouring and spreading the solution.
5. Have a three tier floor protection (it’s messy folks!) first layer: 2 inch green Frog tape with plastic attach to it placed at the base of the the tub. Second layer: An inch behind the the frog tape line, place the brown roll paper-I cut pieces of the frog tape to keep it in place (total of 24 inches from the base of the tub). Third layer: a flatten cardboard box where the containers and pouring cup is placed.
6. Since I glazed the tile surround as well ( my tiles do not go all way to the top). I made sure there was a continuous run of the frog tape when I taped off the top of the tile to ensure there is easy removal. I do remove the the tape as soon as I finish just in case there is a mishap, corrections can be made because the epoxy has not settled.
7. Have the plastic bag opened/several gloves/wet paper towels/wet lint free towels set up near you.
While in the midst of the project, you are going to question your existence and how did you get here. The key is to LET THE POURING AND GRAVITY DO THE WORK FOR YOU! The epoxy has a thick honey-like consistency that is hard to move when there is a thin layer. Be deliberate in pouring, slow down just a little-only a little because of the time restraints.
For a project like the video, the job would have been easier with more product. I would have had another container to complete the job.
I hope this helps anyone because the company’s videos are not realistic they make it seems easier that what it is, then it’s a complete shock once you get started. I wish you all success!
Awesome suggestions and help. Thanks! Yes it is messy, not like in the company videos. It gets on everything so protect everything store you start
I just did mine and its very blumpy and i could see the dripping how do i fix that
I have not done it but I believe the only way to fix an uneven surface is to sand it. You will have to use very fine sandpaper like starting with at least 500 and going up to finer till it looks smooth (maybe up to 2000). Probably best to call the company first and ask them what they recommend before you do more damage.
I've been looking at doing this as an option during a recent renovation in my own bathroom.
(For the purpose of our background, we are building company in the UK and have installed many bathrooms during larger domestic building projects - since 1980.)
The reason I entertained this idea was to save time replacing the bath tub, and associated tiling works involved.
I have to say, and although I bet there are guys out there who've done a pretty good job at this...I do not see the point in going to this effort in being 'precise' and trying to ensure that a smooth and seamless look is achieved, when essentially, you're working really HARD (and under pressure) to try to achieve a passable result.
I have full respect for the work involved and efforts made in this video! I just feel that ultimately it is less pressure for guaranteed gain to replace the whole unit - including the time involved cost.
Remove lower layer of tiles, get the bath out = two hours.
Replace bath with new, plumb in to existing waste with new trap = 1/2 day - 1 day.
Tile down onto bath (assuming you can source same tiles) = 1/2 day.
Guaranteed the best outcome.
Worst case scenario? You could apply new tiles on top of tiles? Glue Aqua Panels to existing tiles? etc etc
Wishing you all the best dudes ;o))0
I understand your perspective. The problem with the cast iron tubs are they are really heavy and jammed tight into the space. I’m working by myself so I would not be able to lift it out and would need to break it into fragments. Then load it into the truck and take it to the recycling center. Then bring a new heavy tub back and find help. I don’t like the newer acrylic tubs they scratch too easy
Thanks. Been looking for a playlist of bathroom remodeling, just need to practice the skills
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you! I’m doing this today and this was helpful.
Awesome. Good luck. I’m sure it will look much better after you are done
Just did this last night. I decided to wait on my bottom course of tile until the tub was refinished. Installed and grouted all the rest of the tile. That way, finish would run underneath bottom course of tile.
Unfortunately, a stupid bug flew into the epoxy after I went to bed. And there are little hairs in it... not overly visible, but their in there for sure. It looks WAY nicer than before, but it's definitely not perfect.
I also did not tape overflow, and no epoxy went into it.
Good job. I had 2 bugs land on my almost finished pour but was able to get them out luckily. I agree it may not look perfect but it is way better than what it did look like and great for the first time attempting it. Nobody except us will notice the imperfections
@@handyhomerepairs Right on. I dug the main body of the bug out today and sanded the rest down a bit with 220 grit. Can't tell there was ever a bug there. Now we'll see how long it holds up.
I keep thinking about sanding imperfections but I’m waiting for a chip or something else major. My kids drop toys and other things on the tub almost nightly and it’s held up lol so it seems to be durable so far.
@@handyhomerepairs That's great. Good to know. Sounds like it will last a while.
My first tub was done two years ago-still beautiful, but it has some yellow streaks where the water flows in the tub. The tile surround is In perfect condition. I only use Dawn power wash and soft cloth to clean.
Hmm I will have to look out for the yellow discoloration. Maybe it is the chemical makeup of your water? Do you get the stains on other fixtures or the toilet?
@@handyhomerepairs No other stains -only the tub.
Strange. I know epoxy can yellow with UV or heat but doesn’t sound like either of these two possibilities. Maybe the pH or hardness of the water? I have seen some people talking about yellowing of epoxy grout where the water hits it.
A little research would have done a long way. The manufacture has multiple videos should how to properly use this. The cup that you covered the drain with should have been used to pour the product. If don’t properly you really don’t need the roller
Yes I watched all their videos and they used the cup. The kit also did not include a scooper so I followed their recommendations and made one with duct tape. The roller is not for traditional painting but you use it to spread the material around and even the surface or it will pool in some areas.
It always looks nice when it has been done recently. The trouble starts after a few months. It cracks and peels. Then you have to replace the tub, which you should have done in the first place. BTW, the price of a new acrylic tub is about $ 200. Removing and installing a new tub is much easier and much less work than messing with epoxy.
That is what I’m interested in is the longevity of the product. Mine is a cast iron. I spent a lot of time on the cleaning and scuffing up of the existing surface so hopefully this gives a good bond. I did this about 6 months ago and everything is still good. I was planning on doing am1 year update video to show how it has held up. I have 2 kids that use it daily and the young one is constantly dropping his heavy toys so it is definitely getting tested.
Having rental properties, I've removed a cast iron tub and replaced it with a $30 acrylic I got at a Home Depot auction. It's not the cost of the tub that's the issue. Getting the cast iron tub out was a real pain (we ended up having to break it in two just to carry it down the stairs).
I've also painted tubs with epoxies. I'm choosing the epoxy vs. taking out the iron tub this go round.
@@austinbrittabrashears144 I helped my dad take out a cast iron tub many years ago. Same experience, too heavy and we had to break it up with a hammer into easier to handle pieces
First off love your video very helpful just wondering did you have to put a bonding paint down first? And how did it turn out
@medicmark9683 no bonding paint, just followed the company instructions on cleaning the surface and using the recommend toilet bowl cleaner because it is stronger than most. I also use sand paper to roughen the surface a little even though the company did not mention this step. It has been about 6 months and no issues yet. Still looks great. I have a 5 year old that is constant dropping toys on it so it is getting work out.
~ I was kinda thinking if’s U had punched a Hole in the top of Ur Cup .... it may stay put, instead of Float...
I’m not sure if there was internal pressure that caused it to float or if the epoxy is much more dense and just flowed under the edge. It’s worth a try.
I understand the price on this product has gone up a lot compared to 3 to 4 years ago. I can't seem to find a contractor to do. Strictly do it yourself? Did you need to do 2 coats? Sorry. I am not to the end of the video yet.
@susan70003 I did it all myself. This was my first time using the product or resurfacing a tub. I watched the company video. I would recommend watching the pro do it and then non-pro like me lol. It is not as easy as they make it look. It is not difficult but it makes quite the mess. You only need 1 coat for a standard tub. It will do the inside all the top edges and front apron like you can see me do
One thing I wish I had done was to keep a small bottle of the unmixed ekopel to fix a few minor repairs after drying.
Yes, thought I’m not sure how long it would last once ingredients exposed to air. They sell a touch up kit but expense for a small patch. I still have some small areas I want to try to smooth with high grit sanding but still afraid to make it worse if I can polish it correctly
This product is to use on a porceline or caston iron buthtub? Because my but tub is NOT fiberglass material
@giuliana4287 my tub was cast iron with what looked like the original finish on it so probably porcelain. I scuffed the finished a little with sand paper to make sure there was something to stick to but the manufacturer said it was not necessary
Dam looks like a mess what am I in for lol
It is a manageable mess lol. A year later and I’m still glad I did it. Have 2 kids beating it up and still looks like new
How long does it last?
I have heard 5-10 years but there are probably a lot of variables. If you have acidic or alkaline water it will probably stain faster than the original. If it gets direct sunlight epoxy can yellow. If you did. It apply it correctly it could start peeling. If it gets chipped or scratched it could allow peeling to start. I have had mine for almost a year and it is as good as the day installed it.
On scale of 1-10 how frustrating is this process? 1 being mild annoyances 10 being you gaslight your wife for 30 mins because you thought you can hear a toilet being flushed 2 floors up. Thats a joke but you know what im asking right. I'm not sure I want to do this.
Maybe a 6? It did not come out perfect which annoyed me but it is good enough that no one except me would realize. If I did it a second time I think I could do much better. It takes many hours after pouring to continue to keep the epoxy from running into the drain. I had the perfect environment set up. It was probably 1 hour to install and then another 6 hours of checking every 15 mins to an hour. It saved a couple thousand $$$ so that made it worth it. Been there a few months and has held up to several kids in there and dropping things on the surface. There are a couple scratches but nothing major. You can sand and polish them out but they aren’t major enough that I want to potentially cause any other issues
This video was a joke? 😱
Nope. That’s how you refinish an old tub and it’s been working great.
show us yours
I can’t on YT platform or I will get flagged. Check out my Only Fans site featuring this epoxy tub.