@@ireakhavok Ended up scrapping the rings and it turned out great! I have the K70 with MX silvers. Also modded my sister's G.Skill KM780 with reds. Really amazing the results you can get with a bit of effort.
@@BleedGibson The fact that you can take what you already have and mod it to be so much better is satisfying to me. I'm glad that you're modding for other people! I gave my brother a board and a couple other friends. :) Glad that it went smoothly! I am waiting de-soldering parts. I have three boards waiting right now to get modded that need to be de-soldered, including my first mech.
Your videos encouraged me to go with a project board - a liquid damaged K95 Platinum I found on a local equivalent of craigslist for around 200$. The original game-plan was to just fix the damn thing up... Now I got a K95 with the following: Custom real leather wrist rest instead of the original rubber one, replaced the super scratchy speeds with Akko Demon switches, plate-PCB foam, bottom case foam, holee modded everglide pandas', razer pbt keycaps with a jurryrigged 6,25 spacebar to fit the 6,5u stabilzers. Needless to say, I love this thing and typing on it is a real pleasure.
I want to see this. Hit me up on instagram, or send me an email. lmao at the fact that you put Razer keycaps on a Corsair board, that's the equivalent of putting a ford motor in a chevy, lmao. Sounds comfortable, and quite a bit of work! I wouldn't have bought a water damaged board for 200$! that's so risky! glad that it turned out. I'm assuming that you just cleaned up the connectors with a q-tip or whatever and the PCB came back
@@ireakhavok Small mistake here - It was 50$ - not 200. 200 was in my currency (PLN). The seller was very upfront and honest what kind of damage it had - other than some LED's not working as they should and keystrokes not registering, it was in pristine condition - if you don't mind the gamer gunk, that is. The only reason I felt comfortable buying a liquid damaged keeb is because I already had to save my laptop twice after spilling liquid myself due to my own clumsiness and had some... first hand experience what to do with liquid damaged PCB's. And as to how I cleaned it... I literally washed the PCB in the bathtub. After that, I gave it a spray down with contact cleaner (and some q tip action) for good measure and finished it off by generously spraying it down with isopropyl alcohol. Dried using first a compressor (with air preparation unit ofc) and after that giving it a nice finish with the hair dryer. All the dead LED's sprung back to life after that and the dead switches were working. Also, I'll send you by tomorrow an image of the board per email. It looks rather serious with the razer keycaps, compared to the gamer font of the corsair keycaps :^ )
@@D3humaniz3d Much better, haha. and Awesome, man! I look forward to seeing it! I'm really glad that you took a chance, and accomplished something new, reused something that probably would have been thrown out, and made your own twist to it. you did all of the right things! Sounds like they had a pretty bad spill
Yes, but you have to get the same type of low profile switches. There is a K70 version that is not low profile, as well, that would be good for standard MX switches, but you can't switch from low profile to high profile or visa versa
Hi, this is very helpful. I'm sure to do some modding for my own version of this keyboard (it has the MX Cherry Speed, most have Red) and I have a couple of questions. With the foam on the bottom, does it actually affect how the switches perform? I.e., does it dampen the switch or just sort of seals the space? My second question is about ideas on how to reduce the maximum actuation distance. I very much enjoy the fact that I only need to press the key down 1 mm for it to register, but the full 5mm is a bit annoying to me. The obvious solution would be O-rings, however, the low profile switches are different than normal ones, so the normal O-rings won't fit. Are there any alternatives for this? Or did I maybe miss the right O-rings somewhere? This is currently the biggest gripe I have with the keyboard right now, I can take the loud keys, but the distance would make the biggest difference to me.
So the speed switches already have an actuation distance of 3.2 mm, which is .8 mm less travel distance than regular switches. I have not tried putting o rings on the low profile switches, but I would actually think that that may work. The stems on the keycaps still have the same (+) pattern as normal switches, so it should fit just fine, and actually have a better/ more even bottom out against the switch. I just tried it out on my board, and it actually worked.
@@ireakhavok Thanks for the very fast reply! Yes, I have certainly gotten the numbeers wrong, but I admit, to me even a very small distance is very noticeable, so even if it's 3.2mm it feel like more haha. As for the O-rings, the reason I ask is because while the switches do have the same + pattern, there is an additional plastic ring around it. And I've seen someone place O-rings on the outside of that plastic, but I was not able to find any O-rings online that are big enough (the outside plastic is 6.5mm in thickness. But, if it can be placed on the inside, I would be fine with that, just a bit surprised that it actually fits. Thanks again for the reply, I might just go and order myself some O-rings and some lube today :D
@@ireakhavok That much I understand, but the think with this keyboard is that it has the ring of plastic around the stem, where it fits the keycap's + slot tightly. So what it would seem to me that it would do it would just raise the keycap, rahter than actually change anything about the actuation distance, because the ring of plastic moves together with the switch. So in this case I think you would need an O-ring that would fit the ring around the stem. Unless I'm missing something. And again, thanks for replying to me :)
@@TheNeoDaedalus The bottoming out distance of 3.2 mm is just a physical limitation of plastic hitting plastic. If you put an o-ring on it it will just change it from 3.2 mm to say 2.5 mm and be a rubbery bottom out. You cannot change the actuation point (where it is registering the key in the computer) without changing the stem or the contact leaves
That's an amazing result. I already desoldered and lubed my k70 rapidfire with silver switched but I didn't put foam. Hopefully that dampens the rest of what I'm hearing what foam do you recommend?
I recommend some U-haul packing foam sheets that are made for dishes - or a sheet of silicone. the silicone would create a much more thuddy sound, while the foam will mute the sound more like you hear in this video. around 1.7 mm - 2 mm thick sheets is generally what you want. You can also layer it or mix silicone with foam, but I must say that the silicon sheets generally come quite a bit thicker and are harder to get them to work right without damaging your case or PCB. With patience, though, it will give the "best" result, in my opinion!
Thanks for this awesome video. How much of the sound reduction do you think comes from the foam mod compared to the remaining changes? I am thinking of buying a K70, but would only go as far as adding foam.
So, normally, for tall profile switches in a standard keyboard - the sound change from foam is usu around 60-75 percent. but in this case, probably half from the switches and half from the foam. Just because the switch anatomy is so different and has less space than a normal switch, so the lube does a better job at sound control.
I don't think you can really go wrong with corsair vs other "gaming" brands. I do think that the lube was really helpful here because these switches are a little more scratchy than other switches. So just keep that in mind. This would go away after heavy use and about a year, I'd assume, but I can't be sure.
@@ireakhavok Thank you so much, for this quick answer. If you have some more time so spare, I would humbly ask one more question. After watching some more of your videos, I am currently on the edge of either going for the: -Corsair K70 with MX red switches + Foam (+O-Rings) - Everest Max with MX silent red switches + O-rings Do you think the overall sound volume would be the same?
@@MultiMetal31 so honestly both of these produce a very similar sound, and are fantastic choices. given that they both are aluminum plates with plastic cases they will feel similar too. I would say however that the utility of being able to remove and move the number pad of the mountain Everest I would go with the Everest.
I just bought this keyboard, and the pinging on some keys are insane - especially the keys around the middle of the keyboard, like O and P. It's the spring up noise. The others keys have it too, but to an acceptable degree, i cant hear with a headset on (headset on, but no music). Which mod will help reduce this the most? It'sd so bad on like 4 of the keys i think I will return it, if i cant reduce it greatly. Beside this problem, the keyboard is perfect for me - all regular size mechs has too tall keys, for my small hand, and weak joints. Do I need to get either low profile, or membrane
Lubing the switches is the best way to reduce ping. Followed by foam. I definitely suggest doing it if you have the tools to do so, but I would start with the foam first.
I'm considering swapping out the low profile Cherrys for regular switches, do you think this board would allow that? once I have the standard size switches on I can get PBT keycaps. I don't like these low profile ABS ones much.
Sadly they are not compatible. :/ However they do make a k70 that is not low profile that has basically the exact same top plate. I would try to sell the low profile and just buy the standard
@@ireakhavok I just did a bunch of mods to my apex 7 tkl, since I don’t own a soldering iron I spray lubed the red switches, put dialectic grease on the stabilizers and put some foam in it and it soooooo god tier now
It did become muted, and I'm not entirely sure if it is from the foam or the lube and the anatomy of the thin switches, but it definitely is unique, and not what I expected. I do feel that the low pass characteristics of the tape mod would actually be a better sound profile on this board, as even after dampening it has a rather high and low pitched sound profile, with almost no middle ground characteristics. GOOD LUCK AND HAPPY DE-SOLDERING
Yes, I do. It is always better to modify what you already have, first, before buying something new! Just be careful if you plan on lubing your switches because lubing silent switches can make them squeak if you put too much lube. Some thinner lube in those cases would work, but if you would like to just use a silent switch and not lube them absolutely that would work perfectly.
Yesterday i bought my MK.2 low profile and it actually sounds like yours after the mod. It has a really dry sound. Maybe corsair changed something in the production?
So I have a condenser microphone so it's going to amplify a lot of the little sounds. The sounds that you are hearing on your keyboard is going to be comparative to my before and after. Corsair does not lube their switches.
@@ireakhavok It can be. Before that I used a Razor black widdow elite. In comparison, the Corsair is really barely audible. At first I liked the click sound but over time it drove me crazy. ;)
yes it will help reduce and most of the time eliminate "switch ping". You can also sometimes lube the switches or use different springs to do the trick.
@@ireakhavok thanks! Might give it a shot tonight. Does lubing the switches help with the aluminum case ringing too? Or is that mostly the foam inside?
@@nczioox1116 Mostly the foam fixes that, for sure. The lubing only helps If there is a ringing like a tuning fork. Sometimes you can make other switches ring by harmonic oscillation - lubricant helps keep this from happening.
I do not believe so, as the plate to PCB distance changes. If you get the regular K70, it will have normal switches. The problem here is that if you were to solder on the switches through the plate, I do not believe that the top plate will be able to bold down to the bottom housing anymore, due to the gap that is created. I could be wrong, as I never measure the height of the bottom housing to compare it with, but I'm about 96% you cannot do it on this keyboard without heavy modifications to the case, itself.
Honestly, I think that my mic settings changed somehow, I can't be sure, though. It really isn't mushy. I feel that the sound has to do with the anatomy of the switch. It doesn't feel squishy at all. I assure you that it isn't over-lubed.
So this I did think about, but this is much harder to pull off. What it comes down to is that the board isn't clean and getting all of the gunk out is practically impossible for all of the key spots. Hot swap sockets are very finicky and need to have an absolutely perfect and clean pcb. All of the other problems are manageable.
i have no idea how your k70lp sounded that way before you did the modding because mine stock sounds exactly how yours did after the mod. now I'm wondering what would happen if I did what you did, to mine
So, the compression mic that I use amplifies fine details, and softens loud sounds a bit. So some of it could be due to the mic that I am using - and the settings. Buut if yours is completely stock than I DEFINITELY suggest modding it. You will like the differences, I'm sure. De-soldering all the switches sounds like a pretty rough task, but it's not that bad, just time consuming.
No, lubing the switches will also make it quieter, but you have to open the keyboard anyway to get to the switches, so it is better to do the foam mod, while the keyboard is open!
@@MrSoBraL87 it dampens and braces the bottom of the case, to reduce the amount of volume of air that can vibrate. It is the same as putting a pillow in a base drum.
One of the pieces of plastic and the spring came out of one of my switches. Is there any way to fix this without taking the keyboard apart and desolder the key?
So I guess it all depends on whether or not you have to desolder. (Without desoldering) Well I like to take my time, listen to music. In order to lube a full size keyboard it would take around 5 hours. If it's just a small 60%, it takes 3.5 hours. (With desoldering) It will take in between 7 to 10 hours just to desolder and lube. If you're asking about like the actual video production: Recording the sounds probably takes around 20 to 30 minutes. B-roll is about an hour to an hour and a half. And then the video production is around four to eight hours. But if it's a longer video it can take up to 15 to 16; including the rendering time if I did it multiple times.
@@ireakhavok WOW That's an incredible amount of patience! Thanks for the detailed response as well. And I'm guessing you enjoyed the whole process would you say?
@@OhGosh360 I do not like de-soldering switches, just because it can be a huge hassle. For example, right now, My de-soldering pump has a warped container for the solder. I have to either find the right container, or buy a whole new pump. Soldering and lubing switches, absolutely, yes, I enjoy. It's kind of soothing, and relaxing in a way. If I had the best tools, then I probably would like it, but I would rather get the next keeb to modify, instead of buy a 400$ de-solder station. Maybe some day, that will change. For the most part - If you build a keyboard yourself or if you get a hot-swap keyboard, it will just be a great experience. you may not like lubing switches, but it won't be something you hate 9 times out of ten. I do know of some people who loathe lubing switches, but those people generally have never desoldered, either, or don't know how to look at the bright side of things :P As for modding keyboards, as a whole, yes. I love doing it. I type all day long, and enjoy doing it. If you can't tell, by my paragraph delineated replies, lol.
@@ireakhavok As someone who hasn't soldered or desoldered since high school shop class, what would the mods that I would be able to do this keyboard be? How would I go about lubing (if at all possible) without soldering? Additionally, how much of the improvement would you say comes from the foam vs the lube? Thanks for the video, it was therapeutic in a way - I'd be interested in watching a real-time video with some gentle music in the background. It's really relaxing.
@@vrts Thanks for the comment! So there is a problem with this kind of switches. They have an oddly shaped stem that keeps you from being able to stick a brush inside the switch from the top side. if you had the normal sized switches (not the low-profile) you would be able to do it like I did my corsair K63 in the other video on my page. You could definitely do the foam, and you would get varying results, but you could keep trying different materials from silicone, to different packing foams. I would suggest that you start collecting foam sheets from things that you get in the mail, or you could go to u-haul and by some thin packing sheets from them. I definitely feel that for this board, de-soldering it is about 70% of the final product, and you can achieve around 35% without de-soldering with just foam. If you were to have the normal switches you could top-lube them, and get roughly 70% of the way there. I do stream on twitch sometimes, you are welcome to join the discord or follow me there. I will be streaming two keyboard builds in the near future.
@The Digital Space those keycaps are not low profile and they do not fit the k70 mk.2 because the bottom row on the k70 MK2 is non-standard and those sets are standard.
@The Digital Space they are either contoured differently, or have a different texture. Do not EVER buy them, IMO, if you use that keyboard for ANYTHING other than gaming, like browsing the web, or actually typing. I believe one kind of set came with the MK2 low profile, and it was trash.
@@tonym3659 I definitely feel that that is because of the anatomy of the switch - there is no open space, like in other switches. I do lube heavily, but they're not overlubed. Have you seen other videos of lubed low-profile? maybe I should have done a thinner lube, just for sound?
man i also am tempted to open my board up. i have the normal k70 mk2. but im hesitant to break this plastic clamp at the volume wheel it feels like its the cheapest plastic that you usually find on chinese toys that are beeing sold on a flee market for a dollar
I am using this as my main keyboard for my secondary computer. After mods it really makes it a fun keyboard to type on, just because it is so unusually quiet and smooth.
@@ireakhavok Fair enough, I don't have confidence in de-soldiering and then soldering them back on. How much of a difference would it make if I only use dampening material and NOT lube the keys? Could use dampening material inside and on the outside under the keys I could try some dynamat stuck to the metal.
@@HeadphoneHangover Dampening will act as a low pass filter, and cause many high pitched sounds and case reverberation to be reduced. It will definitely help, but probably is only 30% of the reason for the change in sound. Still a worthwhile thing to do!
Idk why some keyboard nerds think DIY keyboards like the ones most popular youtubers and twitch streamers use are far superior than store bought gaming keyboards. All mechanical keyboards honestly suck in terms of sound unless you put foam in your keyboard frame and Lubricate your switches. (Unless they're cherry mx browns. Those switches are downright awful even when lubed.) I have foam in my K95 Platinum right now, and it does improve the noise a tiny bit, but not by much. I'm considering lubricating my switches now after watching this vid. Do you have a link for the lubricant you used?
Link is in the description! :) And, yes I agree with you. I enjoy modding boards. Seeing it change from one sound to an improved sound. It's honestly more work to modify something like a Corsair.
@@ireakhavok yeah the custom built keyboards are easier to work with, but I do like corsair's use of a similar frame standard, which makes it easier to put foam in there, although I might have broken the plastic screw standoff located under the space bar & idk if that will interfere with the foam. ALSO your link for the Krytox 205g0 isn't there.
Hi Christian, thanks for stopping by. I do have a heavy hand at lube, but actually, no, I disagree, it isn't over-lubed. the keys would feel and sound a little sticky and inconsistent, which they do not. I wish that I could show you.... but, the sound difference is due to two things: My mic settings were probably not the same. Sadly, I don't remember what the settings were. since this video, I have made sure my sound settings are correct. And, secondly, they did get quieter (but I will definitely argue that they are not over-lubed).
I would like to hear other people's low profile switches when they lube them. if you have done it, or know of other people who have, please let me know.
![ALLY - OH MY! [ REACTION ] 'Amarin Nitibhon' #ALLY_OHMY #ALLY #allynitibhon #แอลลี่](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nX9qpHjVfbQ/mqdefault.jpg)
![[UNCUT] บอสพอล แผลงฤทธิ์ บอสพระ-นักร้อง ก. โดนแฉยับ! I คนดังนั่งเคลียร์ I 21 ต.ค. 67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/XKf6HeftoPI/mqdefault.jpg)
A man of patience
Doing this + lubing the stabs, filming the switches, Tape mod, and O rings to my K70 with MX Silvers this weekend. So excited!!
Noice! The only thing I wouldn't do is the rings. I didn't know they made film for the low profile switches? Or do you have the regular switches?
@@ireakhavok Ended up scrapping the rings and it turned out great! I have the K70 with MX silvers. Also modded my sister's G.Skill KM780 with reds. Really amazing the results you can get with a bit of effort.
@@BleedGibson The fact that you can take what you already have and mod it to be so much better is satisfying to me. I'm glad that you're modding for other people! I gave my brother a board and a couple other friends. :) Glad that it went smoothly! I am waiting de-soldering parts. I have three boards waiting right now to get modded that need to be de-soldered, including my first mech.
Your videos encouraged me to go with a project board - a liquid damaged K95 Platinum I found on a local equivalent of craigslist for around 200$. The original game-plan was to just fix the damn thing up... Now I got a K95 with the following:
Custom real leather wrist rest instead of the original rubber one, replaced the super scratchy speeds with Akko Demon switches, plate-PCB foam, bottom case foam, holee modded everglide pandas', razer pbt keycaps with a jurryrigged 6,25 spacebar to fit the 6,5u stabilzers.
Needless to say, I love this thing and typing on it is a real pleasure.
I want to see this. Hit me up on instagram, or send me an email. lmao at the fact that you put Razer keycaps on a Corsair board, that's the equivalent of putting a ford motor in a chevy, lmao. Sounds comfortable, and quite a bit of work! I wouldn't have bought a water damaged board for 200$! that's so risky! glad that it turned out. I'm assuming that you just cleaned up the connectors with a q-tip or whatever and the PCB came back
@@ireakhavok Small mistake here - It was 50$ - not 200. 200 was in my currency (PLN).
The seller was very upfront and honest what kind of damage it had - other than some LED's not working as they should and keystrokes not registering, it was in pristine condition - if you don't mind the gamer gunk, that is.
The only reason I felt comfortable buying a liquid damaged keeb is because I already had to save my laptop twice after spilling liquid myself due to my own clumsiness and had some... first hand experience what to do with liquid damaged PCB's.
And as to how I cleaned it...
I literally washed the PCB in the bathtub. After that, I gave it a spray down with contact cleaner (and some q tip action) for good measure and finished it off by generously spraying it down with isopropyl alcohol. Dried using first a compressor (with air preparation unit ofc) and after that giving it a nice finish with the hair dryer. All the dead LED's sprung back to life after that and the dead switches were working.
Also, I'll send you by tomorrow an image of the board per email. It looks rather serious with the razer keycaps, compared to the gamer font of the corsair keycaps :^ )
@@D3humaniz3d Much better, haha. and Awesome, man! I look forward to seeing it! I'm really glad that you took a chance, and accomplished something new, reused something that probably would have been thrown out, and made your own twist to it. you did all of the right things! Sounds like they had a pretty bad spill
Considering doing this to my k70 mk2.0 with red switches. This looks way easier than I thought it would be
It really wasn't bad at all! It turned out really well, too. It was a pain to take apart the low profile switches, but really worth it in the end
I have the newer version of this, so this helps for sure. Thanks! Hopefully one day I will feel like putting in the work for this lol.
There are no newer versions, yet!~ you may have a different board, but this was definitely a ton of work!
Thank you for the video, is it possible to use different switches for this keyboard ?
Yes, but you have to get the same type of low profile switches. There is a K70 version that is not low profile, as well, that would be good for standard MX switches, but you can't switch from low profile to high profile or visa versa
Hi, this is very helpful. I'm sure to do some modding for my own version of this keyboard (it has the MX Cherry Speed, most have Red) and I have a couple of questions. With the foam on the bottom, does it actually affect how the switches perform? I.e., does it dampen the switch or just sort of seals the space?
My second question is about ideas on how to reduce the maximum actuation distance. I very much enjoy the fact that I only need to press the key down 1 mm for it to register, but the full 5mm is a bit annoying to me. The obvious solution would be O-rings, however, the low profile switches are different than normal ones, so the normal O-rings won't fit. Are there any alternatives for this? Or did I maybe miss the right O-rings somewhere? This is currently the biggest gripe I have with the keyboard right now, I can take the loud keys, but the distance would make the biggest difference to me.
So the speed switches already have an actuation distance of 3.2 mm, which is .8 mm less travel distance than regular switches. I have not tried putting o rings on the low profile switches, but I would actually think that that may work. The stems on the keycaps still have the same (+) pattern as normal switches, so it should fit just fine, and actually have a better/ more even bottom out against the switch. I just tried it out on my board, and it actually worked.
@@ireakhavok Thanks for the very fast reply! Yes, I have certainly gotten the numbeers wrong, but I admit, to me even a very small distance is very noticeable, so even if it's 3.2mm it feel like more haha. As for the O-rings, the reason I ask is because while the switches do have the same + pattern, there is an additional plastic ring around it. And I've seen someone place O-rings on the outside of that plastic, but I was not able to find any O-rings online that are big enough (the outside plastic is 6.5mm in thickness. But, if it can be placed on the inside, I would be fine with that, just a bit surprised that it actually fits. Thanks again for the reply, I might just go and order myself some O-rings and some lube today :D
You put the o-rings on the key caps not on the stems.
@@ireakhavok That much I understand, but the think with this keyboard is that it has the ring of plastic around the stem, where it fits the keycap's + slot tightly. So what it would seem to me that it would do it would just raise the keycap, rahter than actually change anything about the actuation distance, because the ring of plastic moves together with the switch. So in this case I think you would need an O-ring that would fit the ring around the stem. Unless I'm missing something. And again, thanks for replying to me :)
@@TheNeoDaedalus The bottoming out distance of 3.2 mm is just a physical limitation of plastic hitting plastic.
If you put an o-ring on it it will just change it from 3.2 mm to say 2.5 mm and be a rubbery bottom out.
You cannot change the actuation point (where it is registering the key in the computer) without changing the stem or the contact leaves
great vid cool seeing just how low the keyboard is with the caps removed
Thank you! yeah, it is really slim, but still retains enough movement to make it not feel very different from a normal sized mech.
That's an amazing result. I already desoldered and lubed my k70 rapidfire with silver switched but I didn't put foam. Hopefully that dampens the rest of what I'm hearing what foam do you recommend?
I recommend some U-haul packing foam sheets that are made for dishes - or a sheet of silicone. the silicone would create a much more thuddy sound, while the foam will mute the sound more like you hear in this video. around 1.7 mm - 2 mm thick sheets is generally what you want. You can also layer it or mix silicone with foam, but I must say that the silicon sheets generally come quite a bit thicker and are harder to get them to work right without damaging your case or PCB. With patience, though, it will give the "best" result, in my opinion!
@@ireakhavok Thanks! I will look into those options
Thanks for this awesome video.
How much of the sound reduction do you think comes from the foam mod compared to the remaining changes?
I am thinking of buying a K70, but would only go as far as adding foam.
So, normally, for tall profile switches in a standard keyboard - the sound change from foam is usu around 60-75 percent. but in this case, probably half from the switches and half from the foam. Just because the switch anatomy is so different and has less space than a normal switch, so the lube does a better job at sound control.
I don't think you can really go wrong with corsair vs other "gaming" brands. I do think that the lube was really helpful here because these switches are a little more scratchy than other switches. So just keep that in mind. This would go away after heavy use and about a year, I'd assume, but I can't be sure.
@@ireakhavok Thank you so much, for this quick answer. If you have some more time so spare, I would humbly ask one more question.
After watching some more of your videos, I am currently on the edge of either going for the:
-Corsair K70 with MX red switches + Foam (+O-Rings)
- Everest Max with MX silent red switches + O-rings
Do you think the overall sound volume would be the same?
@@MultiMetal31 so honestly both of these produce a very similar sound, and are fantastic choices. given that they both are aluminum plates with plastic cases they will feel similar too. I would say however that the utility of being able to remove and move the number pad of the mountain Everest I would go with the Everest.
@@ireakhavok Thanks again for your opinion.
I just bought this keyboard, and the pinging on some keys are insane - especially the keys around the middle of the keyboard, like O and P. It's the spring up noise. The others keys have it too, but to an acceptable degree, i cant hear with a headset on (headset on, but no music).
Which mod will help reduce this the most?
It'sd so bad on like 4 of the keys i think I will return it, if i cant reduce it greatly.
Beside this problem, the keyboard is perfect for me - all regular size mechs has too tall keys, for my small hand, and weak joints. Do I need to get either low profile, or membrane
Lubing the switches is the best way to reduce ping. Followed by foam. I definitely suggest doing it if you have the tools to do so, but I would start with the foam first.
I'm considering swapping out the low profile Cherrys for regular switches, do you think this board would allow that? once I have the standard size switches on I can get PBT keycaps. I don't like these low profile ABS ones much.
Sadly they are not compatible. :/ However they do make a k70 that is not low profile that has basically the exact same top plate. I would try to sell the low profile and just buy the standard
Put some athletic tape underneath the stabilizers in your space bar to get rid of that rattle
@@ireakhavok I just did a bunch of mods to my apex 7 tkl, since I don’t own a soldering iron I spray lubed the red switches, put dialectic grease on the stabilizers and put some foam in it and it soooooo god tier now
YT deleted my original comment: Stabs are the most important mod! I should have spent more time on it here on this board.
@@alexatwood6205 Very late, but i don't want to desolder everything.
How did you spray-lubed it and how well was it working?
Thanks. Going to try it with the tape mod instead of foam. Not sure if the mic settings or not but seems too muted for my liking. Anyways good job ☺️👍
It did become muted, and I'm not entirely sure if it is from the foam or the lube and the anatomy of the thin switches, but it definitely is unique, and not what I expected. I do feel that the low pass characteristics of the tape mod would actually be a better sound profile on this board, as even after dampening it has a rather high and low pitched sound profile, with almost no middle ground characteristics. GOOD LUCK AND HAPPY DE-SOLDERING
do you think its worth changing all the switches of a k95 RGB to a silent one ?
i kinda wanna do this but reduce my keyboard sound.
Yes, I do. It is always better to modify what you already have, first, before buying something new! Just be careful if you plan on lubing your switches because lubing silent switches can make them squeak if you put too much lube. Some thinner lube in those cases would work, but if you would like to just use a silent switch and not lube them absolutely that would work perfectly.
Yesterday i bought my MK.2 low profile and it actually sounds like yours after the mod. It has a really dry sound. Maybe corsair changed something in the production?
So I have a condenser microphone so it's going to amplify a lot of the little sounds. The sounds that you are hearing on your keyboard is going to be comparative to my before and after. Corsair does not lube their switches.
@@ireakhavok It can be. Before that I used a Razor black widdow elite. In comparison, the Corsair is really barely audible. At first I liked the click sound but over time it drove me crazy. ;)
Will the foam help eliminate that annoying ringing sound whenever a keyboard is pressed?
yes it will help reduce and most of the time eliminate "switch ping". You can also sometimes lube the switches or use different springs to do the trick.
@@ireakhavok thanks! Might give it a shot tonight. Does lubing the switches help with the aluminum case ringing too? Or is that mostly the foam inside?
@@nczioox1116 Mostly the foam fixes that, for sure. The lubing only helps If there is a ringing like a tuning fork. Sometimes you can make other switches ring by harmonic oscillation - lubricant helps keep this from happening.
@@nczioox1116 Definitely start with foam, as de-soldering the switches takes such a long time, and was harder to open them all by hand.
@@ireakhavok Thanks! Gonna try that soon. Decided to return the k70 and get a k100 renewed so will try it on that. Appreciate the tips!
Is replacing the low profile switches with regular ones doable?
I do not believe so, as the plate to PCB distance changes. If you get the regular K70, it will have normal switches. The problem here is that if you were to solder on the switches through the plate, I do not believe that the top plate will be able to bold down to the bottom housing anymore, due to the gap that is created. I could be wrong, as I never measure the height of the bottom housing to compare it with, but I'm about 96% you cannot do it on this keyboard without heavy modifications to the case, itself.
The before sound way too loud to me. The after is so nice. Really worth the effort.
nice work brother, I do think you overlubed though as it sounds a bit wet and squishy afterwards
Honestly, I think that my mic settings changed somehow, I can't be sure, though. It really isn't mushy. I feel that the sound has to do with the anatomy of the switch. It doesn't feel squishy at all. I assure you that it isn't over-lubed.
Sadly most keycap doesn't fit corsair layout. Especially stab
Nice work man, lubbing this keyboard take tons of work xD
Thanks! yeah I wish that it was a standard layout, but it is the best for a lap board on the couch!
Consider making them hot swappable?
So this I did think about, but this is much harder to pull off. What it comes down to is that the board isn't clean and getting all of the gunk out is practically impossible for all of the key spots. Hot swap sockets are very finicky and need to have an absolutely perfect and clean pcb. All of the other problems are manageable.
Perfection
i have no idea how your k70lp sounded that way before you did the modding because mine stock sounds exactly how yours did after the mod. now I'm wondering what would happen if I did what you did, to mine
So, the compression mic that I use amplifies fine details, and softens loud sounds a bit. So some of it could be due to the mic that I am using - and the settings.
Buut if yours is completely stock than I DEFINITELY suggest modding it. You will like the differences, I'm sure. De-soldering all the switches sounds like a pretty rough task, but it's not that bad, just time consuming.
Can i just lube the stem by not tearing down the keyboard? Will that help
yes, you can, top lubing is only about 60-80% as effective, however.
Only with this foam mod will helps to make this keyboard more quiet?
No, lubing the switches will also make it quieter, but you have to open the keyboard anyway to get to the switches, so it is better to do the foam mod, while the keyboard is open!
@@ireakhavok what happens just with foam mod? What the function of this?
@@MrSoBraL87 it dampens and braces the bottom of the case, to reduce the amount of volume of air that can vibrate. It is the same as putting a pillow in a base drum.
Noice! I'll do it to my Alienware k510 👍
Nice, let me know how that goes. I was thinking about picking one up for my Aurora r10 just so it matched
One of the pieces of plastic and the spring came out of one of my switches. Is there any way to fix this without taking the keyboard apart and desolder the key?
No, there isn't!
Will I be able to put in the glorious panda switch?
not in the low profile version of this board, but in the normal, non-low profile version, yes.
자막이 있어서 좋네요😀
Are the stabilizers plate mounted or pcb mounted?
@@ireakhavok So I can install screw-in stabilizers?
Plate mounted, and no, there aren't any spots for screw in.
Holy moly donut shop, you really did all that for a k70 may god have mercy on your soul
Somebody had to do it!
Wow, the sound is amazing after. Home much time could I expect to put into something like this project?
So I guess it all depends on whether or not you have to desolder.
(Without desoldering) Well I like to take my time, listen to music. In order to lube a full size keyboard it would take around 5 hours. If it's just a small 60%, it takes 3.5 hours.
(With desoldering)
It will take in between 7 to 10 hours just to desolder and lube.
If you're asking about like the actual video production:
Recording the sounds probably takes around 20 to 30 minutes. B-roll is about an hour to an hour and a half. And then the video production is around four to eight hours. But if it's a longer video it can take up to 15 to 16; including the rendering time if I did it multiple times.
@@ireakhavok WOW That's an incredible amount of patience! Thanks for the detailed response as well. And I'm guessing you enjoyed the whole process would you say?
@@OhGosh360 I do not like de-soldering switches, just because it can be a huge hassle. For example, right now, My de-soldering pump has a warped container for the solder. I have to either find the right container, or buy a whole new pump. Soldering and lubing switches, absolutely, yes, I enjoy. It's kind of soothing, and relaxing in a way. If I had the best tools, then I probably would like it, but I would rather get the next keeb to modify, instead of buy a 400$ de-solder station. Maybe some day, that will change.
For the most part - If you build a keyboard yourself or if you get a hot-swap keyboard, it will just be a great experience. you may not like lubing switches, but it won't be something you hate 9 times out of ten. I do know of some people who loathe lubing switches, but those people generally have never desoldered, either, or don't know how to look at the bright side of things :P
As for modding keyboards, as a whole, yes. I love doing it. I type all day long, and enjoy doing it. If you can't tell, by my paragraph delineated replies, lol.
@@ireakhavok As someone who hasn't soldered or desoldered since high school shop class, what would the mods that I would be able to do this keyboard be? How would I go about lubing (if at all possible) without soldering? Additionally, how much of the improvement would you say comes from the foam vs the lube? Thanks for the video, it was therapeutic in a way - I'd be interested in watching a real-time video with some gentle music in the background. It's really relaxing.
@@vrts Thanks for the comment! So there is a problem with this kind of switches. They have an oddly shaped stem that keeps you from being able to stick a brush inside the switch from the top side. if you had the normal sized switches (not the low-profile) you would be able to do it like I did my corsair K63 in the other video on my page. You could definitely do the foam, and you would get varying results, but you could keep trying different materials from silicone, to different packing foams. I would suggest that you start collecting foam sheets from things that you get in the mail, or you could go to u-haul and by some thin packing sheets from them. I definitely feel that for this board, de-soldering it is about 70% of the final product, and you can achieve around 35% without de-soldering with just foam. If you were to have the normal switches you could top-lube them, and get roughly 70% of the way there. I do stream on twitch sometimes, you are welcome to join the discord or follow me there. I will be streaming two keyboard builds in the near future.
Please advise which PBT keycaps to take for this keyboard ?
There are none!
@The Digital Space those keycaps are not low profile and they do not fit the k70 mk.2 because the bottom row on the k70 MK2 is non-standard and those sets are standard.
@The Digital Space but I didn't know that they had aftermarket keycaps *THE MORE YOU KNOW*
@The Digital Space they are either contoured differently, or have a different texture. Do not EVER buy them, IMO, if you use that keyboard for ANYTHING other than gaming, like browsing the web, or actually typing. I believe one kind of set came with the MK2 low profile, and it was trash.
It's a difference but the after is a little quiet and mushy.
It's extremely quiet, it may sound mushy, but it doesn't feel mushy at all.
@@ireakhavok I mean it sounds mushy to me.
@@tonym3659 I definitely feel that that is because of the anatomy of the switch - there is no open space, like in other switches. I do lube heavily, but they're not overlubed. Have you seen other videos of lubed low-profile? maybe I should have done a thinner lube, just for sound?
@@ireakhavok Idk it depends on you.
man i also am tempted to open my board up. i have the normal k70 mk2. but im hesitant to break this plastic clamp at the volume wheel it feels like its the cheapest plastic that you usually find on chinese toys that are beeing sold on a flee market for a dollar
I am using this as my main keyboard for my secondary computer. After mods it really makes it a fun keyboard to type on, just because it is so unusually quiet and smooth.
This is amazing! Damn if you were local, I'd pay you $50 to do this for my K70 Mk2 I'm too scared to do this myself lol
Sadly this is like an 8 hour job and can cost 30-40 in just supplies. You should definitely try!
@@ireakhavok Fair enough, I don't have confidence in de-soldiering and then soldering them back on. How much of a difference would it make if I only use dampening material and NOT lube the keys? Could use dampening material inside and on the outside under the keys I could try some dynamat stuck to the metal.
@@HeadphoneHangover Dampening will act as a low pass filter, and cause many high pitched sounds and case reverberation to be reduced. It will definitely help, but probably is only 30% of the reason for the change in sound. Still a worthwhile thing to do!
Idk why some keyboard nerds think DIY keyboards like the ones most popular youtubers and twitch streamers use are far superior than store bought gaming keyboards. All mechanical keyboards honestly suck in terms of sound unless you put foam in your keyboard frame and Lubricate your switches. (Unless they're cherry mx browns. Those switches are downright awful even when lubed.) I have foam in my K95 Platinum right now, and it does improve the noise a tiny bit, but not by much. I'm considering lubricating my switches now after watching this vid. Do you have a link for the lubricant you used?
Link is in the description! :) And, yes I agree with you. I enjoy modding boards. Seeing it change from one sound to an improved sound. It's honestly more work to modify something like a Corsair.
@@ireakhavok yeah the custom built keyboards are easier to work with, but I do like corsair's use of a similar frame standard, which makes it easier to put foam in there, although I might have broken the plastic screw standoff located under the space bar & idk if that will interfere with the foam. ALSO your link for the Krytox 205g0 isn't there.
@@Darkminer86 you should be fine!
Fam I like the effort but the stabs are still clicking
Also lubing the stem is completly redundant due to the lower housing being doused with krytox.
yes. The stabs are not very good. They were proprietary, if I remember right. I could take another look at them for sure, though.
You put in way too much lube on the bottom housings, thats why they are so quiet. Otherwise, Good job!
Hi Christian, thanks for stopping by. I do have a heavy hand at lube, but actually, no, I disagree, it isn't over-lubed. the keys would feel and sound a little sticky and inconsistent, which they do not. I wish that I could show you.... but, the sound difference is due to two things: My mic settings were probably not the same. Sadly, I don't remember what the settings were. since this video, I have made sure my sound settings are correct. And, secondly, they did get quieter (but I will definitely argue that they are not over-lubed).
I would like to hear other people's low profile switches when they lube them. if you have done it, or know of other people who have, please let me know.