Absolutely. Getting the splined end of a driveshaft, or driveshaft socket, back into the gearbox without galling the seal is a real mission, even in a professional garage with ramps and wheel-free lifts. And it's not like you can really find a way around it by putting something over the splines to prevent the damage as you can with other splined parts, as there's no way to get the covering out once the driveshaft is in. It's definitely something that takes practice and it's different on just about every vehicle. Even the professionals end up having to change those seals out after doing gearbox work or a clutch change pretty often as they get everything back together and then discover that little drip of gearbox oil when they do their final checks or after the test drive. It is just one of those pain in the backside facts when working on vehicles...
With the drive shafts installed whilst the box is on the bench wrestling with a shaft under the car wasn't the problem 😀 I can't remember whether you lubed shaft and seal before installing - which is always a good idea. Replacement in-situ won't be too easy - I'd give it a little while yet for the seal to settle on the shaft. You never know your luck!
Just reviewed the gearbox rebuild and no prelube on new seals unfortunately. Won't be galled seal from spines as it is twice the diameter of the drive shaft. May bed in?
Hi mate8, if you wont to stop things from rusting you wont to give miracle paint a go I ues it and find it works very good, one thing about its not cheep, let me know what you think when you get some cheers Ian. P.s keep up the good work not fun working in the cold, but you in joy cars as much as me lol thanks again for the video Ian.
It's recommended to scrape old sealant on mating surfaces with plastic scraper! Plastic is softer than metal and it won't scrape it. First I used also metal blades for removing sealant, but after half a dozen of scratches I decided to use plastic ones. Yes it's more time consuming but at least there are no scratches and I have not to worry if some scratch will cause new leakes after the job is done. If you don't want them, you can send them to me. :) Greets from Croatia!
Those bolts weren't loose by accident. Many times I have seen that oil leak trick by sketchy mechanics, just loosen 2 or 3 bolts and in a couple of months the car returns to you to be repaired. Bonus points if you can make the oil to drip over the exhaust to generate smoke, that way the client is more motivated to spend the big bucks!!! Glad to see that you are not a crook.
Way back when I was at college our instructors used to really bang it into us to spanner check and spanner check and spanner check when working on anything. This sump is exactly why. It's very easy to overlook something, especially if you get disturbed in the middle of a job. But if you complete your spanner checks it won't get missed twice and cause a problem like here. If the loose bolts had been on a different part of the sump then it could easily have caused a significant oil leak... A pro tip for changing fuel filters on fuel injection vehicles, pretty much everything petrol-powered these days, is to release the fuel line pressure first. Fuel injection cars have the fuel lines pressurised by the pump in the tank and that pressure takes days to relieve itself if the fuel system is fully intact. The easiest way to release the line pressure is to locate the fuse for the fuel lift pump in the tank and pull it, then start the vehicle and let it run until it dies. You will have used up the fuel in the line then and you can change the fuel filter without getting the petrol shower. To give you an idea why this is a good idea, many years ago I was working in a garage and servicing a Golf GTI. I came to change the fuel filter, my mind tells me I had attempted to relieve the fuel line pressure but that could be me unconsciously trying to cover my mistake or I could have pulled the fuse for the wrong fuel pump, i.e. the injection pump and not the lift pump. Anyway, I released the fuel pipe from the filter and got a shower of high pressure fuel. I jumped back and caught my foot in the lead light I was using, which was a 240V mains-powered one as they were legal in garages at the time. The lead light hit the floor, the bulb shattered and I went up in flames as high pressure fuel spray is very easy to ignite. I was lucky, the mechanic working on the next ramp saw what was happening and had a fire extinguisher on me pretty much as I turned around. Our overalls were fire retardant and we weren't allowed to work wearing clothes made from synthetic fibres under our overalls, so I was a little singed around the edges but otherwise unharmed, but if I had been working on my own it could very easily have been immeasurably worse. After that, the garage ditched the old 240V mains lead lights and had low current lead lights on extension reels installed the same week. The car, fortunately, was totally undamaged...
As a Skoda mechanic, I don't recommend reusing those steel sumps if they don't break loose easily. They bend really easily around the sealing surface, and will eventually start leaking again. By the looks of it, this pan has already been resealed once, since the factory sealant usually is a bit more gray than the white goo you scraped off. And whoever did the job used way too much. The 2 small o-rings on the oil filter cap are life time o-rings, so no reason to worry about those. They're not included in the OEM kit either.
@@muhamedskeno3541 carbon buildup on the intake valves and brake corrosion. That's usually a 60-100k interval job. Other than that, I've not seen many common faults, and I work for one of the biggest dealerships of vw and Skoda in my country. Maybe some sensor malfunctions on diesel engines, but other than that just rust on brake rotors. Great cars in general. The car in the video has had some issues with the window wiper linkages wearing out, but that is a cheap and easy diy (if you have a wiper arm removal tool).
@@muhamedskeno3541 There's one thing, but only on cars with the DSG transmission. It's not a common problem, but not unheard of. A retaining clip on one of the shifting forks can break loose, and cause metal shavings in the oil, and shifting trouble. Not quite sure when they fixed this issue in production. It's a step above DIY, but not much harder than the transmission rebuild earlier in this video series.
That plastic scraper is more for doing aluminium surfaces James, it won’t put big scrapes or gouges into alloy surfaces. I use them on motorbike casings, blocks or cylinder heads for cleaning them up they’re a great job for that
Try not to buy cheapy shite from eBay /Amazon a lot of people use sealey, bacho or snap on but snap on a bit expensive there is loads of manufacturers look for life time warranty on stuff
You could use your bench wheel to revitalise your scrapers. Pop that stone back on and you're away. May as well use it, now you've bought it! Think you've done so well on this. What a project achievement despite the dark and foul weather.
4:29 I had that oil drain container. I think it was £14 when I bought it (2 years ago). They are good, in fact since they were so low profile, you can change many car's oil without jacking the car up. However, it does have its flaws: 1. It WILL leak oil from the plugs no matter how hard you tighten it. 2. Over tighten the plugs will snap the thread off the green plug. And if it snaps, your only solution is glue it back because those plugs can not be bought individually.
Running the bead of sealer on the inside of the bolt hole is because there is a good chance that the oil would leak from the bolt holes if the sealer was on the outer side....And using the pins..Good tip too.
i do not own any of the cars you are working on but have subscribed becuase the way you demonstrate and explain makes it easy to follow, we are not all as advanced with cars maintenance routine as a lot of youtubers think when they breeze past a component. Great vids, Great Quality video and easy to watch...Awesome
I'm from America and will more than likely never own a Skoda so I'm not sure how I stumbled upon your channel lmao, but I just wanted to say the way you lay out the information in your videos is great! Keep it up man, wishing you success!
If you need to remove silicone sealant again in the future, there is a product called SEALANT REMOVER sold by Screwfix here in the UK. you slap this onto the old sealant, wait about 20 mins and usually the sealant wipes off with a rag, leaving a clean unscratched surface. It even works when there is a bit of oil around. Sometimes you need to give it abit of help if the silicone is thick. Interesting channel, by the way !!
I have the same gasket scraper, only it's double-headed. One end is a steel blade, the other is plastic like yours. Plastic one is great for aluminium surfaces, where the steel blade could cut and damage.
Great video, I recently replaced the output flange seal on my vw golf 5, its a 1.9tdi. The job itself wasn't that bad tbh, the output flange itself on the 5speed box, as with most linked with diesel engines... Are spring loaded, because of the vibration, so use something to depress the spring (pry bar) then have some circlip pliers handy to use before you can then access the offending seal, I paid around 8 quid for a replacement seal, was an exact same type. Good luck.
Try the Millwaukee gear, far superior. I've tried them all, Dewalt, Hitachi, etc etc etc.. Good video, I used to do fix salvaged cars myself many years ago. Made some good friends and some really good money.. 👌👍👌👍
Nice one, I had a work mate years ago with a mk3 Cortina and he used to paint his engine with old oil. He said a wet engine was a good engine, we thought he was mad, I don't think he'd get away with that these days. Many thanks for the great content and have a great Christmas.
Nice to see a conscientious worker with pride in what they do, your doing a grand job there. Looking forward to the next episode...merry Christmas and a Happy/healthy New year to you James and your family too...God blesd
Great video James, I watched the full service on the corrida red Fabia estate, I really enjoyed that one, as I have this one too, it was interesting to see how my previous Fabia looks and works underneath, looking forward to the radiator install!!.
Wicked video James! I like the fact you show all your mistakes (plastic scraper) and don’t edit them out. Watching your vids has given me the confidence to work on my car!! Keep the vids coming 👊🏾
Did not mention about the right air flow direction of the pollen filter & doing the depressurisation of the fuel filter under the bonnet before taking the fuel filter off. Good tip with the threaded bolt into the sump. Top video.
I would suspect previously owning and working on various VAG cars you may have to be prepared to remove the complete front end to replace the radiator. They tend to be bolted to the slam panel and don't allow removal by lifting up and out.
Same trick with headless bolts as guides works when changing wheels. Undo top bolt, replace with longer headless bolt, undo rest of bolts, slide wheel off the "dowel". Makes sure you don't have to lift the wheel over brake calipers to not scratch it. Learned that from a US mechanic since in the US lug nuts are more common that lug bolts
VW group driveshaft bolts have a tendency to stretch and are best replaced. With the plastic scraper, any gasket material should be softened with white spirit or meths or some solvent of that sort. I believe petrol would also work.
Well done that man, i really enjoy your videos, takes me back to when i used to fix up cars in my youth, I'm now 65 with a knackered back, so carnt tinker any more, keep up the good videos, 😁👍
A tip for you. When installing orings ounce in thier Grove take a small pick or flat blade screwdriver and lift the oring up and run it all the way round underneath ounce or twice between the cap and the oring this de stresses and untwists the oring and seats it properly in its Grove meaning its less likely to break when you screw the cap back on.
The plastic scrapers are for where you want to avoid scratches or gouging. They do have a purpose. Usually where you've applied a solvent or similar to adhesive residue such as badges on paintwork. If you'd used something like gasket sealant removal spray they may have worked.
Those plastic razors are to prevent scratching of soft materials like wood. Great for getting paint off wood. That 3rd leak looks like a condenser leak (air con).
They use plastic nowdays for the alluminum oil pans mate, obviously alluminum is softer than steel I'm a mechanic my self and I prefer the plastic blades as they don't damage the surface
Great video again... it's good to know that the majority of the work is easy enough to do yourself. Like yourself, I only have a driveway, with no garage or carport to work in/under, but unlike you, I actually don't have a work shed! Otherwise, I'd be doing more of the easier service items myself on my Skoda Fabia... which sadly is with the mechanic getting a new water pump fitted! Thanks again for the videos on the Skoda Fabia and other cars :)
I want to buy my next car off you , dedicated and meticulous , and your pace of delivery is excellent .my Skoda Fabia mk2 needs a good service but I’m scared to tackle it myself .wish you lived near the south coast.
I have the same scraper holder from amazon; plastic blades for delicate surfaces and I have a pack of metal blades for the other jobs. Had to use the plastic on my 1.8t sump as metal was scoring it 👍 great video as always man 🙂
Handy thing you might use, get some rubber/sponge interlocking pads for use on the floor. Saves ruining a coat. Not expensive. Saves my knees and back countless times!
I always save big corrugated card boxes for oil changes, put it under the sump area and in front, saves oil going over the drive as the card just soaks it up 👍🏻
Your videos are very informative and in depth - love it! Keep up the good work ! More mk2 fabia TSI videos if u get any more to work on. Especially around leaking rear door when it rains. Been tearing my hair out it. Looked at everything!! Besides that excellent channel !!
Good tip for cleaning gasket surfaces effectively and quickly, get a wire wheel on a drill and clean it off that way. The wire wheel doesn’t damage metal surfaces with normal pressure on the drill
I'd clean up the driveshaft and make sure the leak from the oil pan isn't covering the driveshaft the seal might be ok. I had a similar issue where there was a leak from a tandem pump above it that was dripping down and made it look like the driveshaft was leaking
Soften the silicone sealant with Finishline citrus degreaser. It's superior to all other citrus degreasers and will release the silicone bond. It's available from Demon Tweeks. I'd then use a dremel with the plastic scourer type attachment. That will get rid of the shit in no time at all.
If you get a small magnet you can test your sump or any part to see if it’s steel or aluminium etc etc, a magnet will only be attracted to iron ( steel)
James what a fantastic job you have done so far very nice to see someone making sure the cars in tip top condition before selling it on very rare commodity these days looking forward to the next installment stay safe pal👌
Hi mate a great video ,As usual I really enjoyed it and top marks for your honesty. Who ever buys this car will buy with total confidence of the hard work and skill you have put into it. Keep on keeping on Kevbo
Scraper in the vice, grab a file and give it a little rub = sharp scraper again. Guide studs are a life saver at times. Small tip - when hacksawing in the vice, normal better to go against the jaws rather than inline, hence why your studs were moving a fair bit. Driveshaft Lip Seal - Easy one. New Radiator - Pain in the Ass but you have to do it now.
as an owner of a fabia 2, i find your vids informative. hopefully you will get more fabia's as projects. good tip ref the door wiring for non working window. good to know!
Great video Iv just done driveshaft seal on a panda fingers crossed it will be ok I normally put a smear of silicone grease around it before putting driveshaft in. Hopefully it helps 👍
Another great video. Its fantastic that you're fixing all the issues you find with the car. Although on cheaper cars like these it's hard to get it 100% fixed whilst still making enough profit on the sale to have made it worth your time. Will be a super wee car for someone
Nice video mate. FYI second drain point on your new pan is likely for the oil filter. You can stand it in that recess to fully drain whilst the oil drains from the sump 👍
Decent plastic scrapers are absolutely the way to go. With most blocks now being aluminium your just much less likely to accidentally dig out any of the contact surface. To be fair though I'm surprised you didn't just use your new desktop angle grinder to just sharpen your metal scraper.
To my understanding I believe then gasket scrapers from amazon (the plastic ones) are for machines surfaces where you don't possibly want to scratch the mating surface with a metal scraper. So the plastic wouldn't scuff the surface. But I guess for a oil sump a metal one won't matter
I think somebody tried to fix that radiator leak before with some kind of leak stop compound poured into coolant. Coolant in Skodas is usualy bright pink and the one in your car looks like turned orange. That colour change might be caused by that leak stop compound. You need to change that coolant and I recomend do clean the coolant reservoir. Otherwise nice job so far. Sorry for my "english".
Nice one James always enjoy these longer videos, With the attention to detail in your work that is going to be a decent little car for someone by the time you have finished with it👌
Well if the driveshaft seal leaking is the only problem after a first time rebuilding a gearbox, then in my opinion you did a great job 👍🏼
Absolutely. Getting the splined end of a driveshaft, or driveshaft socket, back into the gearbox without galling the seal is a real mission, even in a professional garage with ramps and wheel-free lifts. And it's not like you can really find a way around it by putting something over the splines to prevent the damage as you can with other splined parts, as there's no way to get the covering out once the driveshaft is in. It's definitely something that takes practice and it's different on just about every vehicle. Even the professionals end up having to change those seals out after doing gearbox work or a clutch change pretty often as they get everything back together and then discover that little drip of gearbox oil when they do their final checks or after the test drive. It is just one of those pain in the backside facts when working on vehicles...
Fully agree.
With the drive shafts installed whilst the box is on the bench wrestling with a shaft under the car wasn't the problem 😀
I can't remember whether you lubed shaft and seal before installing - which is always a good idea.
Replacement in-situ won't be too easy - I'd give it a little while yet for the seal to settle on the shaft.
You never know your luck!
Just reviewed the gearbox rebuild and no prelube on new seals unfortunately.
Won't be galled seal from spines as it is twice the diameter of the drive shaft.
May bed in?
Hi mate8, if you wont to stop things from rusting you wont to give miracle paint a go I ues it and find it works very good, one thing about its not cheep, let me know what you think when you get some cheers Ian. P.s keep up the good work not fun working in the cold, but you in joy cars as much as me lol thanks again for the video Ian.
It's recommended to scrape old sealant on mating surfaces with plastic scraper! Plastic is softer than metal and it won't scrape it. First I used also metal blades for removing sealant, but after half a dozen of scratches I decided to use plastic ones. Yes it's more time consuming but at least there are no scratches and I have not to worry if some scratch will cause new leakes after the job is done. If you don't want them, you can send them to me. :)
Greets from Croatia!
Those bolts weren't loose by accident. Many times I have seen that oil leak trick by sketchy mechanics, just loosen 2 or 3 bolts and in a couple of months the car returns to you to be repaired. Bonus points if you can make the oil to drip over the exhaust to generate smoke, that way the client is more motivated to spend the big bucks!!! Glad to see that you are not a crook.
Love seeing u with your buzz back for the videos and regular content again great work mate 👍👍
Good to know that there are people out there with the utmost integrity, not moving a car on with known faults. credit to you
Way back when I was at college our instructors used to really bang it into us to spanner check and spanner check and spanner check when working on anything. This sump is exactly why. It's very easy to overlook something, especially if you get disturbed in the middle of a job. But if you complete your spanner checks it won't get missed twice and cause a problem like here. If the loose bolts had been on a different part of the sump then it could easily have caused a significant oil leak...
A pro tip for changing fuel filters on fuel injection vehicles, pretty much everything petrol-powered these days, is to release the fuel line pressure first. Fuel injection cars have the fuel lines pressurised by the pump in the tank and that pressure takes days to relieve itself if the fuel system is fully intact. The easiest way to release the line pressure is to locate the fuse for the fuel lift pump in the tank and pull it, then start the vehicle and let it run until it dies. You will have used up the fuel in the line then and you can change the fuel filter without getting the petrol shower. To give you an idea why this is a good idea, many years ago I was working in a garage and servicing a Golf GTI. I came to change the fuel filter, my mind tells me I had attempted to relieve the fuel line pressure but that could be me unconsciously trying to cover my mistake or I could have pulled the fuse for the wrong fuel pump, i.e. the injection pump and not the lift pump. Anyway, I released the fuel pipe from the filter and got a shower of high pressure fuel. I jumped back and caught my foot in the lead light I was using, which was a 240V mains-powered one as they were legal in garages at the time. The lead light hit the floor, the bulb shattered and I went up in flames as high pressure fuel spray is very easy to ignite. I was lucky, the mechanic working on the next ramp saw what was happening and had a fire extinguisher on me pretty much as I turned around. Our overalls were fire retardant and we weren't allowed to work wearing clothes made from synthetic fibres under our overalls, so I was a little singed around the edges but otherwise unharmed, but if I had been working on my own it could very easily have been immeasurably worse. After that, the garage ditched the old 240V mains lead lights and had low current lead lights on extension reels installed the same week. The car, fortunately, was totally undamaged...
Those orange scrapers I use for removing vinyl and stickers, works a treat with no damage 😁
Plastic blades wont damage soft metals such as aluminium
Worx Impact gun: "He loves me the most"
Draper Impact gun: 😭
Great video again James keep it going.
As a Skoda mechanic, I don't recommend reusing those steel sumps if they don't break loose easily. They bend really easily around the sealing surface, and will eventually start leaking again.
By the looks of it, this pan has already been resealed once, since the factory sealant usually is a bit more gray than the white goo you scraped off. And whoever did the job used way too much.
The 2 small o-rings on the oil filter cap are life time o-rings, so no reason to worry about those. They're not included in the OEM kit either.
what's the main thing to watch out for on a Skoda Fabia 2014? mechanically
@@muhamedskeno3541 carbon buildup on the intake valves and brake corrosion. That's usually a 60-100k interval job. Other than that, I've not seen many common faults, and I work for one of the biggest dealerships of vw and Skoda in my country.
Maybe some sensor malfunctions on diesel engines, but other than that just rust on brake rotors.
Great cars in general.
The car in the video has had some issues with the window wiper linkages wearing out, but that is a cheap and easy diy (if you have a wiper arm removal tool).
@@panzerveps thanks thats a huge relief for me as i bought a 2014 skoda fabia. Ill watch out for those
@@muhamedskeno3541 There's one thing, but only on cars with the DSG transmission.
It's not a common problem, but not unheard of.
A retaining clip on one of the shifting forks can break loose, and cause metal shavings in the oil, and shifting trouble. Not quite sure when they fixed this issue in production.
It's a step above DIY, but not much harder than the transmission rebuild earlier in this video series.
@@panzerveps i know a dsg is a direct gearbox but what actually is it? is it all manual cars?
That plastic scraper is more for doing aluminium surfaces James, it won’t put big scrapes or gouges into alloy surfaces. I use them on motorbike casings, blocks or cylinder heads for cleaning them up they’re a great job for that
Sealant needs to be on the inside to stop the oil seeping along the threads of the bolts.
Great videos, I've started to buy some tools and doing my own service and repairs in my garage at home after watching this
Try not to buy cheapy shite from eBay /Amazon a lot of people use sealey, bacho or snap on but snap on a bit expensive there is loads of manufacturers look for life time warranty on stuff
You could use your bench wheel to revitalise your scrapers. Pop that stone back on and you're away. May as well use it, now you've bought it! Think you've done so well on this. What a project achievement despite the dark and foul weather.
4:29 I had that oil drain container. I think it was £14 when I bought it (2 years ago). They are good, in fact since they were so low profile, you can change many car's oil without jacking the car up. However, it does have its flaws: 1. It WILL leak oil from the plugs no matter how hard you tighten it. 2. Over tighten the plugs will snap the thread off the green plug. And if it snaps, your only solution is glue it back because those plugs can not be bought individually.
Running the bead of sealer on the inside of the bolt hole is because there is a good chance that the oil
would leak from the bolt holes if the sealer was on the outer side....And using the pins..Good tip too.
i do not own any of the cars you are working on but have subscribed becuase the way you demonstrate and explain makes it easy to follow, we are not all as advanced with cars maintenance routine as a lot of youtubers think when they breeze past a component. Great vids, Great Quality video and easy to watch...Awesome
I'm from America and will more than likely never own a Skoda so I'm not sure how I stumbled upon your channel lmao, but I just wanted to say the way you lay out the information in your videos is great! Keep it up man, wishing you success!
If you need to remove silicone sealant again in the future, there is a product called SEALANT REMOVER sold by Screwfix here in the UK. you slap this onto the old sealant, wait about 20 mins and usually the sealant wipes off with a rag, leaving a clean unscratched surface. It even works when there is a bit of oil around. Sometimes you need to give it abit of help if the silicone is thick. Interesting channel, by the way !!
You deserve 100k subs mate, great channel and being a local Norwich lad makes it even better! 😎
Either way you have done a good job rebuilding that gearbox mate 👍🏻 absolute great content 100%
I have the same gasket scraper, only it's double-headed. One end is a steel blade, the other is plastic like yours. Plastic one is great for aluminium surfaces, where the steel blade could cut and damage.
That is a classic case of while I'm in there 😂 watched every video so far, really well done. Added bonus you use brand names. Spot on 👌👍
you can resharpen your scraper with a oil stone or grinding disk of some sort
An ordinary file will put an edge back on the scraper .... they're not hard enough that you need a grinder or oil stone :-)
Great video, I recently replaced the output flange seal on my vw golf 5, its a 1.9tdi. The job itself wasn't that bad tbh, the output flange itself on the 5speed box, as with most linked with diesel engines... Are spring loaded, because of the vibration, so use something to depress the spring (pry bar) then have some circlip pliers handy to use before you can then access the offending seal, I paid around 8 quid for a replacement seal, was an exact same type. Good luck.
Try the Millwaukee gear, far superior. I've tried them all, Dewalt, Hitachi, etc etc etc.. Good video, I used to do fix salvaged cars myself many years ago. Made some good friends and some really good money.. 👌👍👌👍
Nice one, I had a work mate years ago with a mk3 Cortina and he used to paint his engine with old oil. He said a wet engine was a good engine, we thought he was mad, I don't think he'd get away with that these days. Many thanks for the great content and have a great Christmas.
Nice to see a conscientious worker with pride in what they do, your doing a grand job there.
Looking forward to the next episode...merry Christmas and a Happy/healthy New year to you James and your family too...God blesd
I have to say I am a big fan of your channel. Your videos are extremely easy to follow,very articulate with great knowledge. Thanks, John
Great video James, I watched the full service on the corrida red Fabia estate, I really enjoyed that one, as I have this one too, it was interesting to see how my previous Fabia looks and works underneath, looking forward to the radiator install!!.
Wicked video James! I like the fact you show all your mistakes (plastic scraper) and don’t edit them out. Watching your vids has given me the confidence to work on my car!! Keep the vids coming 👊🏾
23:24 yopu dont use metal to scrape meal you use plasic or ruber it will gauge the metal and make the oil come out and it wont sit flush
no it wont, not if you know what youre doing and are careful
Did not mention about the right air flow direction of the pollen filter & doing the depressurisation of the fuel filter under the bonnet before taking the fuel filter off.
Good tip with the threaded bolt into the sump.
Top video.
Like another subscriber - Love these videos and it's kick-started me to do thing myself with the addition of new tools - keep em coming!
I would suspect previously owning and working on various VAG cars you may have to be prepared to remove the complete front end to replace the radiator. They tend to be bolted to the slam panel and don't allow removal by lifting up and out.
Hes got a Haynes manual mate.
Same trick with headless bolts as guides works when changing wheels. Undo top bolt, replace with longer headless bolt, undo rest of bolts, slide wheel off the "dowel". Makes sure you don't have to lift the wheel over brake calipers to not scratch it. Learned that from a US mechanic since in the US lug nuts are more common that lug bolts
Great to see you back and enjoying stuff again, James. Hope you're doing well.
VW group driveshaft bolts have a tendency to stretch and are best replaced. With the plastic scraper, any gasket material should be softened with white spirit or meths or some solvent of that sort. I believe petrol would also work.
Well done that man, i really enjoy your videos, takes me back to when i used to fix up cars in my youth, I'm now 65 with a knackered back, so carnt tinker any more, keep up the good videos, 😁👍
A tip for you. When installing orings ounce in thier Grove take a small pick or flat blade screwdriver and lift the oring up and run it all the way round underneath ounce or twice between the cap and the oring this de stresses and untwists the oring and seats it properly in its Grove meaning its less likely to break when you screw the cap back on.
Love how you prepare everything perfectly prior to fitting any parts your eye for detail is impeccable 👍
The plastic scrapers are for where you want to avoid scratches or gouging. They do have a purpose. Usually where you've applied a solvent or similar to adhesive residue such as badges on paintwork. If you'd used something like gasket sealant removal spray they may have worked.
Those plastic razors are to prevent scratching of soft materials like wood. Great for getting paint off wood. That 3rd leak looks like a condenser leak (air con).
They use plastic nowdays for the alluminum oil pans mate, obviously alluminum is softer than steel I'm a mechanic my self and I prefer the plastic blades as they don't damage the surface
Great video again... it's good to know that the majority of the work is easy enough to do yourself. Like yourself, I only have a driveway, with no garage or carport to work in/under, but unlike you, I actually don't have a work shed! Otherwise, I'd be doing more of the easier service items myself on my Skoda Fabia... which sadly is with the mechanic getting a new water pump fitted! Thanks again for the videos on the Skoda Fabia and other cars :)
Great content coming out of this channel atm, love it! Also love seeing the fiesta creeping into shots... anyone for a restoration series?
The temporary studs are a good idea when using silicone. It stops the sump from sliding around and displacing the stuff.
mate those filter housing are only supposed to be around 35nm, i hope you have a bar the length of a football pitch to remove it again lol
I want to buy my next car off you , dedicated and meticulous , and your pace of delivery is excellent .my Skoda Fabia mk2 needs a good service but I’m scared to tackle it myself .wish you lived near the south coast.
You only get 1 seal with the oil filter housing from dealer, also the oil cap is a slow Gil easier th fill through filter housing
Strangely, for the diesel fabia, Mann filters includes both O rings for the oil filter element.( Well, 1.9 PD and 2011 1.6L at least)
I have the same scraper holder from amazon; plastic blades for delicate surfaces and I have a pack of metal blades for the other jobs. Had to use the plastic on my 1.8t sump as metal was scoring it 👍 great video as always man 🙂
Lovely Jubbly video. Your work ethic is spot on.
Handy thing you might use, get some rubber/sponge interlocking pads for use on the floor. Saves ruining a coat. Not expensive. Saves my knees and back countless times!
I always save big corrugated card boxes for oil changes, put it under the sump area and in front, saves oil going over the drive as the card just soaks it up 👍🏻
YOU ARE GETTING THERE JAMES HOPE YOU ALL ARE WELL .GREAT VIDEO
Those plastic scrapers don't mar (scratch) the surface like a metal one would do.
That's why they are plastic.
Kitchen greenie like what you use for dish washing is perfect for cleaning off old sealant and dont damage the surface.
Your videos are very informative and in depth - love it! Keep up the good work ! More mk2 fabia TSI videos if u get any more to work on. Especially around leaking rear door when it rains. Been tearing my hair out it. Looked at everything!! Besides that excellent channel !!
Great vid James love your attitude and attention to detail. Just shows you don't need a fancy garage or lift. Even though they are nice to have.
Good tip for cleaning gasket surfaces effectively and quickly, get a wire wheel on a drill and clean it off that way. The wire wheel doesn’t damage metal surfaces with normal pressure on the drill
If you slide the exhaust hangers backwards and forwards after spraying WD-40 I've found it makes them come off so much easier.
Nice job and attention to detail. Don't stress about the driveshaft seal - these things happen to us all from time to time!
Have to say that was one of the best instructive car videos I have watched. Thanks
I'd clean up the driveshaft and make sure the leak from the oil pan isn't covering the driveshaft the seal might be ok. I had a similar issue where there was a leak from a tandem pump above it that was dripping down and made it look like the driveshaft was leaking
Soften the silicone sealant with Finishline citrus degreaser. It's superior to all other citrus degreasers and will release the silicone bond. It's available from Demon Tweeks. I'd then use a dremel with the plastic scourer type attachment. That will get rid of the shit in no time at all.
The stud method works well with gearboxes aswell
If you get a small magnet you can test your sump or any part to see if it’s steel or aluminium etc etc, a magnet will only be attracted to iron ( steel)
Do love how much attention to show all your work as you go. Great videos bud
James what a fantastic job you have done so far very nice to see someone making sure the cars in tip top condition before selling it on very rare commodity these days looking forward to the next installment stay safe pal👌
Hi there. Do you think the carlyle ratchet is better than the snap-on?
Great video James I did the fuel filter on the diesel but its easier as it sits in the engine bay
Hi mate a great video ,As usual I really enjoyed it and top marks for your honesty. Who ever buys this car will buy with total confidence of the hard work and skill you have put into it. Keep on keeping on Kevbo
Very very impressed with your clean work. Hi from Australia!!
Great content. Have a safe and Happy Christmas and much better 2021.
Scraper in the vice, grab a file and give it a little rub = sharp scraper again.
Guide studs are a life saver at times.
Small tip - when hacksawing in the vice, normal better to go against the jaws rather than inline, hence why your studs were moving a fair bit.
Driveshaft Lip Seal - Easy one.
New Radiator - Pain in the Ass but you have to do it now.
as an owner of a fabia 2, i find your vids informative. hopefully you will get more fabia's as projects. good tip ref the door wiring for non working window. good to know!
Really well explained video your doing a great job
100k subs coming soon james! keep up grinding 😎
Great job James 🙌 I loved the guiding bolts tip I haven’t done an oil sump for a while but next time it will be a lot easier 👌👍
Great video Iv just done driveshaft seal on a panda fingers crossed it will be ok I normally put a smear of silicone grease around it before putting driveshaft in. Hopefully it helps 👍
18:45 that did get me tbh 🤣🤣👍
Really excellent video...very thorough and clearly explained & super camera angles.
My man is just working there with his short jeans! xD
Great video m8, its really good that you are willing to go the extra yards. you take great pride in the work you do. 👍👍👍
Another great video. Its fantastic that you're fixing all the issues you find with the car. Although on cheaper cars like these it's hard to get it 100% fixed whilst still making enough profit on the sale to have made it worth your time. Will be a super wee car for someone
Nice video mate. FYI second drain point on your new pan is likely for the oil filter. You can stand it in that recess to fully drain whilst the oil drains from the sump 👍
Did you not do the spark plugs?
The quality of your videos and content has gotten much better keep up the good work mate
Some long M6 grub screws would do the same job for the studs. And save the hassle of cutting the heads and slitting the ends
They would but sometimes you gotta work with what you got
just a heads up, carparts4less is the same company as Euros but tends to be cheaper and still has the discount codes
I often cross reference between the two. Just copy and paste the part number from euros to carparts4less. I made huge savings on valeting chemicals.
Only downside is that if you need to return you can't just take back to nearby ECP branch.
Decent plastic scrapers are absolutely the way to go. With most blocks now being aluminium your just much less likely to accidentally dig out any of the contact surface. To be fair though I'm surprised you didn't just use your new desktop angle grinder to just sharpen your metal scraper.
It's so satisfying to service things and watch other people service stuff as well. Great vlogs dude
To my understanding I believe then gasket scrapers from amazon (the plastic ones) are for machines surfaces where you don't possibly want to scratch the mating surface with a metal scraper. So the plastic wouldn't scuff the surface. But I guess for a oil sump a metal one won't matter
Thank you for your honesty! Always be honest and fair!
I think somebody tried to fix that radiator leak before with some kind of leak stop compound poured into coolant. Coolant in Skodas is usualy bright pink and the one in your car looks like turned orange. That colour change might be caused by that leak stop compound. You need to change that coolant and I recomend do clean the coolant reservoir. Otherwise nice job so far. Sorry for my "english".
Ithink that other hole on the oil drain box is for a oil filter maybe As well as vent ? Could be wrong
Don’t you have a bench grinder to sharpen your scrapers .?
Looks like you can get metal blades for that scraper on amazon
Nice one James always enjoy these longer videos, With the attention to detail in your work that is going to be a decent little car for someone by the time you have finished with it👌