Yeh, I looked for them on the cart with my new windows when they came in. I had to ask someone and discovered they were attached to the windows. You should find them loosely attached in the groove at the top of the window.
On rough opening measurements for the Pocket window installation, I went with 1/4 inch under width and 1/2 inch under height to custom order the windows. In the video I said 1/4 on height. Hope this clears up any confusion. I had no issues with installation using those measurements.
Thanks for the step-by-step instructions for us carpentry illiterate! So I feel like my measurements were off because it seems like the gaps on the side and top are too large. What is the best fix for this? I think I can seal them with foam in the gaps and then put the framing back on for appearance. Will this work?
Rough openings can vary slightly from window to window. Even though I should have had an average of 1/8 inch on the side of each window, a few had 1/4 inch in some places. The main thing is that your windows are sealed good to the outside. I filled with non-expanding foam, waited a day for it to dry then, used a fine-toothed hobby saw to saw the excess off flush at inside of frame. I found using a utility knife tended to pull some of the foam back out. To your question, yes, you may install inside stop to cover the foam and edge of window. In my case, the new windows are not as thick as the original window assembly so, the original stop would not cover the seam where the rough opening meets the inside casing. To correct, I would have to order/cut lumber (2 inches wide) to cover the seem. I could not find any pre-made stop to do so. My choice would be to have 3/4 clear pine planed to 1/2 inch by 2 inches but, you are still buying 3/4 inch lumber and paying to have it planed. Pre-made stop is also expensive. You can just use 3/4 inch if you want and ease the front inside edge. Due to the price of lumber and the fact that I have installed 16 windows, I have put this off for now and am just happy to have the new windows and energy savings. The cheapest fix would be to apply 1/2 inch quarter-round around the inside of window, miter the corners, fill any gaps, and paint the rest of rough opening. Hope this helps. Glad the video was helpful
I'm putting in a double hung. I had a 7 degree slope so I cut sill adapter to fit. My ? Is do you insulate that open space to accommodate for the slope? If so, how do you do it as there is no access to it with sill adapter on. The interior the sill shoe is 1/2" like an interior stop. Great video, helped me out. Thank you.
I did not insulate between the old window frame slop and the new window sill, nor do I think it is necessary. However, in my case there was a 1/2 inch gap between the front of the new window sill and the back of the old window stool at about 24:16 into the video. I did not replace the old stool to close the gap, as I described. Call me Old and Lazy. I did put in some batt insulation and covered with a piece of 3/4 Round trim, nailed down to complete the sealing of the window. Thanks for the question. Hope this helps.
No, I do not have any experience with those. Whatever you order, just insure you take the correct measurements for ordering as specified for your application. Should you have an issue after installation, their Service Team is very good at insuring you are a satisfied customer. I had an problem with a sash lift on one window. They sent me the parts needed however, I did not feel I could install the replacement parts without their help so, they sent a Service Tech who quickly corrected the problem, at my request.
Did you put none expanding foam in the cavity at the sill area. Sill adapter on mine worked without cutting but I'm worried that if I fill the bottom cavity it will plug up my weep holes. Getting a draft from this area
I decided not to recut or remade my sill to close up the gap. Thinking about burning off the old paint, fill some gaps, paint and run some quarter round between old jamb and back of new window. Been kind of lazy. What I have done is stuff some insulation at bottom between back of sill and window bottom. That cut most of the draft out. If it is still drafty install a piece of wood stop over the insulation and caulk the bottom of your sill adapter on the outside. Your weep holes are located (above) the sill adapter on outside on either side of the window that drain off any moisture from the drain system under the bottom sash. They should be no issue with insulating.
Would you recommend JELD WEN as a good brand to go with? Their prices are pretty low... I'd rather not go through all of this work and put in a junky window that I'll have problems with a few years down the road.
I would recommend them as a good brand. You can upgrade to more than the approx 200 reserve notes per window I spent. I probably have a good minimum requirement window for the region I live in. I replaced 17 windows in 2 years. First winter saved a little less than half on each heating bill compared to the windows I replaced. I may not recover the cost of the windows compared to energy savings in my lifetime but, I will feel more comfortable in my home. As far as how long down the road will they last? Time will tell. I may not be around long enough to find out 'cause, I'm OLD!
You may if you want however, I would not recommend. The shims in their assigned positions, with the anchoring screws through them, give the window stability over time against shifting in the opening that can cause operational or sealing issues. That is why, in the video, I trial fit each shim, marked them flush at frame, and back cut them so they were covered with foam in a continuous seal around the window.
See my reply to Mary, down below. Should be loosely attached to top of window. Just remove, size, and attached to bottom when you are ready. If not, contact supplier.
@@oldmantech5399 They must not put them in the lower cost windows. I looked at the top of the frame and inside the frame and I don't see anything loose.
@@jjhatnm The windows in my video are called "Pocket windows", a complete window and frame that installs inside your old existing frame. If you have the same window, it needs the sill adaptor to accommodate the slope of your existing window sill . It is not shipped loose. It is sent "partially" attached to a groove on the exterior front of the window frame. Usually, the ends of the adaptor are pressed into the groove so you can remove it. If you have the "same type" window and can't find it attached, contact supplier. They owe you.
A pretty generalized statement without any specifics to back it up. You are entitled to your opinion however, in my opinion, at the time of the video I spent about 200 dollars per window. I have had only one issue out of 16 windows and it was promptly addressed by service. The windows are paying for themselves each year with energy savings. Not to mention the absence of labor costs which, is why I made the video to give others the same opportunity. Thanks for the comment. I wish you well.
Thank you for showing me what to do... it was a joy watching a man with a ponytail teaching me, love long hair on a man... hope my install goes well.
I'm glad the video was of benefit to you. I'm sure your install will go just fine. Thanks for the comments.
We have searched and searched for our sill adapter. If only you had pointed to where you found yours. Love the video...VERY helpful.
Yeh, I looked for them on the cart with my new windows when they came in. I had to ask someone and discovered they were attached to the windows. You should find them loosely attached in the groove at the top of the window.
Appreciate the detailed steps. You made it easy to follow. Very helpful. Thanks for doing it.
Thank you. I really appreciate your video.
"A good caulker wouldn't do this, but were in a hurry today" I like that part !! 😄
So how do you finish over the stop on the outside? My trim outside doesnt look like yours? Do you just leave the stop showing on the outside then?
On rough opening measurements for the Pocket window installation, I went with 1/4 inch under width and 1/2 inch under height to custom order the windows. In the video I said 1/4 on height. Hope this clears up any confusion. I had no issues with installation using those measurements.
Great video! Thanks!,
Thanks for the step-by-step instructions for us carpentry illiterate! So I feel like my measurements were off because it seems like the gaps on the side and top are too large. What is the best fix for this? I think I can seal them with foam in the gaps and then put the framing back on for appearance. Will this work?
Rough openings can vary slightly from window to window. Even though I should have had an average of 1/8 inch on the side of each window, a few had 1/4 inch in some places. The main thing is that your windows are sealed good to the outside. I filled with non-expanding foam, waited a day for it to dry then, used a fine-toothed hobby saw to saw the excess off flush at inside of frame. I found using a utility knife tended to pull some of the foam back out. To your question, yes, you may install inside stop to cover the foam and edge of window. In my case, the new windows are not as thick as the original window assembly so, the original stop would not cover the seam where the rough opening meets the inside casing. To correct, I would have to order/cut lumber (2 inches wide) to cover the seem. I could not find any pre-made stop to do so. My choice would be to have 3/4 clear pine planed to 1/2 inch by 2 inches but, you are still buying 3/4 inch lumber and paying to have it planed. Pre-made stop is also expensive. You can just use 3/4 inch if you want and ease the front inside edge. Due to the price of lumber and the fact that I have installed 16 windows, I have put this off for now and am just happy to have the new windows and energy savings. The cheapest fix would be to apply 1/2 inch quarter-round around the inside of window, miter the corners, fill any gaps, and paint the rest of rough opening. Hope this helps. Glad the video was helpful
I'm putting in a double hung. I had a 7 degree slope so I cut sill adapter to fit. My ? Is do you insulate that open space to accommodate for the slope? If so, how do you do it as there is no access to it with sill adapter on. The interior the sill shoe is 1/2" like an interior stop. Great video, helped me out. Thank you.
I did not insulate between the old window frame slop and the new window sill, nor do I think it is necessary. However, in my case there was a 1/2 inch gap between the front of the new window sill and the back of the old window stool at about 24:16 into the video. I did not replace the old stool to close the gap, as I described. Call me Old and Lazy. I did put in some batt insulation and covered with a piece of 3/4 Round trim, nailed down to complete the sealing of the window. Thanks for the question. Hope this helps.
Thank you very much! Do you know if the casement (sliding) windows are any good?
No, I do not have any experience with those. Whatever you order, just insure you take the correct measurements for ordering as specified for your application. Should you have an issue after installation, their Service Team is very good at insuring you are a satisfied customer. I had an problem with a sash lift on one window. They sent me the parts needed however, I did not feel I could install the replacement parts without their help so, they sent a Service Tech who quickly corrected the problem, at my request.
Nice truck
Thanks John.
Good video too. One last question, should I see if the windows are plum before I get them in the mail?
I have no comprehension of how you could realistically do that. However, I have had no issue with the windows being out of plum.
Did you put none expanding foam in the cavity at the sill area. Sill adapter on mine worked without cutting but I'm worried that if I fill the bottom cavity it will plug up my weep holes. Getting a draft from this area
I decided not to recut or remade my sill to close up the gap. Thinking about burning off the old paint, fill some gaps, paint and run some quarter round between old jamb and back of new window. Been kind of lazy. What I have done is stuff some insulation at bottom between back of sill and window bottom. That cut most of the draft out. If it is still drafty install a piece of wood stop over the insulation and caulk the bottom of your sill adapter on the outside. Your weep holes are located (above) the sill adapter on outside on either side of the window that drain off any moisture from the drain system under the bottom sash. They should be no issue with insulating.
Would you recommend JELD WEN as a good brand to go with? Their prices are pretty low... I'd rather not go through all of this work and put in a junky window that I'll have problems with a few years down the road.
I would recommend them as a good brand. You can upgrade to more than the approx 200 reserve notes per window I spent. I probably have a good minimum requirement window for the region I live in. I replaced 17 windows in 2 years. First winter saved a little less than half on each heating bill compared to the windows I replaced. I may not recover the cost of the windows compared to energy savings in my lifetime but, I will feel more comfortable in my home. As far as how long down the road will they last? Time will tell. I may not be around long enough to find out 'cause, I'm OLD!
Can I remove the window shims after the foam dries up. I want to foam where the shims where then replace the screws.
You may if you want however, I would not recommend. The shims in their assigned positions, with the anchoring screws through them, give the window stability over time against shifting in the opening that can cause operational or sealing issues. That is why, in the video, I trial fit each shim, marked them flush at frame, and back cut them so they were covered with foam in a continuous seal around the window.
like the video..why didn't you caulk the bottom on the outside
I did, at about 23:20 in the video. You must not have watched the video all the way. Thanks for comment.
Where is that window sill adapter located? I have a new Jeld-Wen window but I don't see it anywhere.
See my reply to Mary, down below. Should be loosely attached to top of window. Just remove, size, and attached to bottom when you are ready. If not, contact supplier.
@@oldmantech5399 They must not put them in the lower cost windows. I looked at the top of the frame and inside the frame and I don't see anything loose.
@@jjhatnm The windows in my video are called "Pocket windows", a complete window and frame that installs inside your old existing frame. If you have the same window, it needs the sill adaptor to accommodate the slope of your existing window sill . It is not shipped loose. It is sent "partially" attached to a groove on the exterior front of the window frame. Usually, the ends of the adaptor are pressed into the groove so you can remove it. If you have the "same type" window and can't find it attached, contact supplier. They owe you.
@@oldmantech5399 Thanks! I've reached out to Jeld-Wen. Waiting for a response.
@@jjhatnm have you gotten a response? I bought the ‘good’ pocket windows and I can’t find mine
Best advice is Do not buy Jeld-wen Windows they are junk.
A pretty generalized statement without any specifics to back it up. You are entitled to your opinion however, in my opinion, at the time of the video I spent about 200 dollars per window. I have had only one issue out of 16 windows and it was promptly addressed by service. The windows are paying for themselves each year with energy savings. Not to mention the absence of labor costs which, is why I made the video to give others the same opportunity. Thanks for the comment. I wish you well.