I really appreciated you taking your time to explain the chemical end. I am going to subscribe! I have some questions before I paint my pickup. If like your input.
I know it's a lengthy video today guys but I wanted to bridge the gap between automotive and Rustoleum with real help not just bashing each other and give the ones that care an intro understanding of why certain things work or don't with Rustoleum paint jobs and automotive materials so we break it down in this episode! Thanks for watching!
You mentioned people not showing the ugly. Personally I prefer to see what went wrong, show the struggle. I honestly think a little less of the youtubers that cut out the hard parts and only look like Mr. perfect.
Videos like these about the ins and outs are just as helpful as your paint tutorials or fender sprayouts. Much appreciated gentlemen. I jumped right into spraying my car but I had studied a lot. The came out well but could always be better. There's still a learning process. Great video guys
I've painted four complete cars and one full size truck using rust-Oleum as the base coat and Speedo coat brand clear coat and have always had professional results. Anyone that tells you you cannot get professional results from this setup either doesn't know what they're talking about or they're working in the auto industry trying to sell paint at $1,000 a quart.
Thanks for the information Jonathan. I plan on using sprayout cards and a fender I picked up at a Nissan/Infiniti wrecker for $25. It's in great shape. The sales person found out I just wanted to practice and searched his inventory for a decent fender for the lowest price. Also found some scrap sheet metal on the side of the road for sprayouts. I even got a pint of paint for free from an automotive paint store when I told them I wanted to practice. They had some manufacture's samples in a box that they were going to dispose of. When talking about Rustoleum, the spray cans and the cans of paint are two different animals. As I recall looking at the Safety Data Sheet (SDS) on the spray cans, the spray can paint contains Acetone (less than 30% by weight), Propane(less than 20% by weight)and Butane(less than10% by weight) and a bunch of other chemicals. I am sure those 3 chemicals help the paint dry quicker. In addition, I am pretty sure that the spray paint contains no oils. The can of Rustoleum contains oil that slows the drying time. The cans also contains Mineral Spirits, so maybe using Mineral Spirits as a reducer is the best, rather adding another chemical to the mix. Testing with a viscocity cup may improve your paint jobs. Tremclad is Rustoleum in Canada.
Yeah he's a really good guy and I tried to dial it back and just let him explain things rather than both of us try to explain stuff and I more so just asked the most common asked questions lol thanks for watching!
Ideally if you can wait, use the hardener in the rustoleum and wait 30 days for it to cure. Then scuff it up with a scotch bright pad ,clean and shoot 3 coats of clear. It sucks to have to mask the vehicle off again, but you will get a better job without the shrinkage. 😜
I finally subbed this channel, Since I'm currently battling cancer Ive taken the time learn a lot from this channel and plan on using everything I learned here eventually on a kit car in the near future.
I'm sorry to hear about the cancer I hope everything gets much better for you my thoughts and prayers with you and your family. Thanks for watching the channel always glad to help any way I can and bring a little bit of enjoyment during the hard times God bless
This video has definitely helped me understand more about how the Rust-Oleum works & different prepping techniques. This was a much needed video. Thanks John, & please feel welcomed to make more like this.
SPEEDOKOTE 2K urethane clear coat and majic brand enamel hardener to go in the Rust-Oleum I'll include links thanks for watching! amzn.to/3T3VF04 amzn.to/3Z3R0PM
They make a little can of catalyst hardener that they sell at tractor supply that is made specifically for oil-based paints I have seen people use acrylic enamel hardeners as well with no issues but the little pint from tractor supply is probably your best bet starting out thanks for watching!
Clearing over rustoleum wouldnt it be better to get everything coated really well then let the rustoleum 100% cure then use a scuff pad to scuff then spray your 2k clearcoat over. Then no worries about the rustoleum not curing under the clear?
It's always best to go somewhat wet on wet so that everything can bond properly if you wait till it cures out and then go back and clear it after sanding there's always a chance long-term it could flake off but not saying either way is the right way just the way I've always done it Thanks for watching!
Don't laugh for us economically challenged folks looking for improvement but I am all for and like Rustoleum paint in the can bought at home depot for painting cars either spray or roll on. Ok, I take the shame of saying roll on automotive paint jobs but for $ 35.00 and a few hours labor- the results are & can be beautiful..
Most of your primers have little to no UV resistance obviously the 2K primers do a little bit better than the 1K primers but Josh would be able to explain it a little better @midnightautorepair
Usually primers have no UV resistance since they are designed to be top coated with base coat or a single stage paint... Left uncoated primer will usually turn chalky even if it's a 2K
The clear coat has it's own activator but the rustoleum only requires a thinner but you can add an enamel catalyst hardener to it to help it dry quicker and harder
Off topic: I had my first experience with 2k Urethane primer and it was horrible! I'm assuming it was too hot but I couldn't stop spraying.... Some areas on the car laid out nice and others were drying before it was on the car. Talk about pissed..... I'm fighting with it today trying to get it sanded again for the 5th time. And I don't want to cut through the primer because the pearl is going on top. I just cleared the ground effects and mirrors... I know I won't spray 2k primer again... 😅
2K urethane primer can be tricky especially if it's 85 degrees and above... I'm guessing you had a medium temp activator which probably didn't help at all.... If the primer feels a little thick or it's drying way too fast you can use up to 10% slow reducer in it to help out lay out and slow the drying time! I'm sorry ya had to go through that... I've been there! Thanks for watching!
@@Midnightautorepair I'm on the coast of SC and it definitely was hotter than 85⁰ lol. (Index today is 110⁰). It's supposed to be like that through the weekend and then next week it's going to cool down but 60% rain all week... I'm working alone and it's been slow going.... It's my daily drive...so I'm going to have to put the tail lights back in today... And do all my running around before dark because I refuse to put the headlights back in too😅...
@@barnes29510I can totally understand that! But remember you can always throw a little slow or extra slow reducer in the primer to help! Too much reducer and it goes from being a primer to a sealer though lol
@WHITLEYAUTOWORKS I bought a prisma 2k 4:1 clear to use do you if its a good clear? Also what sand paper should I use to sand clear 320 or 400 b4 base coat it with rustolium can spray?
Should work the same as cutting it with acetone I just only recommend 2k urethane clear coat as it's typically more compatible with the Rust-Oleum dry times thanks for watching!
Hey i wanted to thank Jon for having me on and hopefully we were able to help some folks out!
Anytime my man had a blast!
I really appreciated you taking your time to explain the chemical end.
I am going to subscribe!
I have some questions before I paint my pickup. If like your input.
@junkyardsearcher6407 definitely man we both are always glad to help Josh is a great guy!
@@junkyardsearcher6407always happy to help!.. What did ya want to know?
I know it's a lengthy video today guys but I wanted to bridge the gap between automotive and Rustoleum with real help not just bashing each other and give the ones that care an intro understanding of why certain things work or don't with Rustoleum paint jobs and automotive materials so we break it down in this episode! Thanks for watching!
You mentioned people not showing the ugly. Personally I prefer to see what went wrong, show the struggle. I honestly think a little less of the youtubers that cut out the hard parts and only look like Mr. perfect.
Videos like these about the ins and outs are just as helpful as your paint tutorials or fender sprayouts. Much appreciated gentlemen. I jumped right into spraying my car but I had studied a lot. The came out well but could always be better. There's still a learning process. Great video guys
I've painted four complete cars and one full size truck using rust-Oleum as the base coat and Speedo coat brand clear coat and have always had professional results. Anyone that tells you you cannot get professional results from this setup either doesn't know what they're talking about or they're working in the auto industry trying to sell paint at $1,000 a quart.
Wow. Can you lay out your process? Thanks
Thank you for all that you do.
Awesome Video! So much good information here. So many things explained here.
Jonathan’s channel is one of the best! I will check out the Midnight Auto channel. Keep it up Jonathan
Appreciate it man All about trying to help people out that want to save money doing Rustoleum paint jobs thanks for watching!
Thanks for the information Jonathan. I plan on using sprayout cards and a fender I picked up at a Nissan/Infiniti wrecker for $25. It's in great shape. The sales person found out I just wanted to practice and searched his inventory for a decent fender for the lowest price. Also found some scrap sheet metal on the side of the road for sprayouts. I even got a pint of paint for free from an automotive paint store when I told them I wanted to practice. They had some manufacture's samples in a box that they were going to dispose of. When talking about Rustoleum, the spray cans and the cans of paint are two different animals. As I recall looking at the Safety Data Sheet (SDS) on the spray cans, the spray can paint contains Acetone (less than 30% by weight), Propane(less than 20% by weight)and Butane(less than10% by weight) and a bunch of other chemicals. I am sure those 3 chemicals help the paint dry quicker. In addition, I am pretty sure that the spray paint contains no oils. The can of Rustoleum contains oil that slows the drying time. The cans also contains Mineral Spirits, so maybe using Mineral Spirits as a reducer is the best, rather adding another chemical to the mix. Testing with a viscocity cup may improve your paint jobs. Tremclad is Rustoleum in Canada.
Josh is impressive as far as his knowledge and does a good job explaining to us who are not very knowledgeable.
Yeah he's a really good guy and I tried to dial it back and just let him explain things rather than both of us try to explain stuff and I more so just asked the most common asked questions lol thanks for watching!
Awesome, informative video. Going to come back to this next time I'm painting a project. Thanks for sharing this.
Ideally if you can wait, use the hardener in the rustoleum and wait 30 days for it to cure. Then scuff it up with a scotch bright pad ,clean and shoot 3 coats of clear. It sucks to have to mask the vehicle off again, but you will get a better job without the shrinkage. 😜
Acme Finish 1 clear sprayed wonderful. I have not sprayed clear in years but the last one I sprayed was called Chroma by 3M
@@barnes29510 finish1 is good just did my engine bay with it
I finally subbed this channel, Since I'm currently battling cancer Ive taken the time learn a lot from this channel and plan on using everything I learned here eventually on a kit car in the near future.
I'm sorry to hear about the cancer I hope everything gets much better for you my thoughts and prayers with you and your family. Thanks for watching the channel always glad to help any way I can and bring a little bit of enjoyment during the hard times God bless
@@WHITLEYAUTOWORKS Thank you good sir! I look forward to any future videos you post next
Great video! I learned a lot.
Very cool to see you guys together. Great conversation on this topic. Lots of pros and cons.
Great video ,keep up the good work and I think it’s just the concept that not many use or familiar with using the paint me included Thanks for sharing
Thanks for the great info
Are you going to try shooting the rustoleum with a urethane reducer
Great stuff ❤
This video has definitely helped me understand more about how the Rust-Oleum works & different prepping techniques. This was a much needed video. Thanks John, & please feel welcomed to make more like this.
Definitely will thanks for watching!
@@WHITLEYAUTOWORKS you're welcome!
Best affordable clear coat product/ and hardener to go over the rustoleum?
SPEEDOKOTE 2K urethane clear coat and majic brand enamel hardener to go in the Rust-Oleum I'll include links thanks for watching!
amzn.to/3T3VF04
amzn.to/3Z3R0PM
I think I missed it or just can't remember. What kind of hardener do you recommend for the Rust-Oleum paint ???
They make a little can of catalyst hardener that they sell at tractor supply that is made specifically for oil-based paints I have seen people use acrylic enamel hardeners as well with no issues but the little pint from tractor supply is probably your best bet starting out thanks for watching!
@@WHITLEYAUTOWORKS okay thank you very much. How can I send you some pictures
@jamescasella3943 whitleyautoworks@gmail.com
Clearing over rustoleum wouldnt it be better to get everything coated really well then let the rustoleum 100% cure then use a scuff pad to scuff then spray your 2k clearcoat over. Then no worries about the rustoleum not curing under the clear?
It's always best to go somewhat wet on wet so that everything can bond properly if you wait till it cures out and then go back and clear it after sanding there's always a chance long-term it could flake off but not saying either way is the right way just the way I've always done it Thanks for watching!
Don't laugh for us economically challenged folks looking for improvement but I am all for and like Rustoleum paint in the can bought at home depot for painting cars either spray or roll on. Ok, I take the shame of saying roll on automotive paint jobs but for $ 35.00 and a few hours labor- the results are & can be beautiful..
Exactly right thanks for watching!
Great info, Thanks 👍. How about the uv resistents of primer?
Most of your primers have little to no UV resistance obviously the 2K primers do a little bit better than the 1K primers but Josh would be able to explain it a little better @midnightautorepair
Usually primers have no UV resistance since they are designed to be top coated with base coat or a single stage paint... Left uncoated primer will usually turn chalky even if it's a 2K
Just remember poo poo happens. It’s just life
All the time 🤣 thanks for watching!
Just starting the video.. I'll drop another comment after it's over.. i had to show John some support.
Appreciate you man as always thanks for watching!
@@WHITLEYAUTOWORKS you're welcome! I'm learning a lot while watching this video.
Does clear have to have Gardner or can you add clear to Rusty and thinner?🤠🇺🇸 16:21 16:22
The clear coat has it's own activator but the rustoleum only requires a thinner but you can add an enamel catalyst hardener to it to help it dry quicker and harder
North Carolina? Your not far from me I'm in upstate South Carolina
Off topic: I had my first experience with 2k Urethane primer and it was horrible! I'm assuming it was too hot but I couldn't stop spraying.... Some areas on the car laid out nice and others were drying before it was on the car. Talk about pissed..... I'm fighting with it today trying to get it sanded again for the 5th time. And I don't want to cut through the primer because the pearl is going on top. I just cleared the ground effects and mirrors... I know I won't spray 2k primer again... 😅
2K urethane primer can be tricky especially if it's 85 degrees and above... I'm guessing you had a medium temp activator which probably didn't help at all.... If the primer feels a little thick or it's drying way too fast you can use up to 10% slow reducer in it to help out lay out and slow the drying time! I'm sorry ya had to go through that... I've been there! Thanks for watching!
@@Midnightautorepair I'm on the coast of SC and it definitely was hotter than 85⁰ lol. (Index today is 110⁰). It's supposed to be like that through the weekend and then next week it's going to cool down but 60% rain all week... I'm working alone and it's been slow going.... It's my daily drive...so I'm going to have to put the tail lights back in today... And do all my running around before dark because I refuse to put the headlights back in too😅...
@@barnes29510I can totally understand that! But remember you can always throw a little slow or extra slow reducer in the primer to help! Too much reducer and it goes from being a primer to a sealer though lol
Anytime I use rustoleum crystal clear over rustoleum, it gets cloudy and looks terrible.
Yes I do not recommend the clear coat by Rustoleum only clear coat I recommend is 2K urethane clear coat to get a quality finish thanks for watching
@@WHITLEYAUTOWORKS where can you get that if you live in the country?
@racingfortheson I always order off Amazon here's my link amzn.to/477w3oJ
@WHITLEYAUTOWORKS I bought a prisma 2k 4:1 clear to use do you if its a good clear? Also what sand paper should I use to sand clear 320 or 400 b4 base coat it with rustolium can spray?
@@nicmo6913 if it's a urethane clear your good to go and I always sand to 400 or 600 grit before base coat hope this helps thanks for watching!
But can you roll it on ;)
So do I or don't I ? Hmm
WHAT HAPENS IF YOU USE RUSTY CUT WITH THINNER AND THEN CLEAR COAT 11:39
Should work the same as cutting it with acetone I just only recommend 2k urethane clear coat as it's typically more compatible with the Rust-Oleum dry times thanks for watching!