ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 มิ.ย. 2024
- Chapters and links to supplies used in the description below.
Complete finishing process from raw print to finished product using graphite as the primary coating technique. This method will allow you to use graphite without worry of finger prints and minimal rub off.
This video will cover all products used, prep methods, and demonstration of the process from start to finish.
I apologize for the length, lot to cover!
#Mandalorian #Cosplay #Graphite #3DPrinting #StarWars
Timestamps
0:00 Intro
3:12 Supply Overview
12:28 Primer Round 1
15:12 Sanding First Layer
21:41 Putty & Second Primer Coat
24:42 Sanding Second Layer
29:39 Sealer & Clear Coat
32:20 Next Phase Review
34:32 Clear Coat Wet Sand
37:52 Polishing Clear Coat
41:32 Graphite Pre-Wash
42:32 First Graphite Application
46:17 First Graphite Wash
48:37 Second Clear Coat
51:56 Final Graphite & Clean
56:11 Conclusion & Wrap Up
List of Supplies
- Sanding - Metal file, 180 sandpaper, wetsand paper 320, 600, and 2000
- Sanding Blocks
- Cotton pads
- Dust mask
- Rubber Gloves
- Microfiber Towels
- Orbital Buffing Wheel
- Primer, round 1 - Rustoleum Sandable Filler Primer, Grey and Black - www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-249...
- Primer, round 2 - Dupicolor Automotive Filler Primer, Grey and Black - www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-DA...
- Sealer - Dupicolor Automotive Sealer, Grey - www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-K0...
- Clearcoat - Dupicolor Perfect Touch Clear - www.amazon.com/VHT-BCL0125-Ex...
- Cleaner - Chemical Guys Clean Slate - www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-...
- Polish - Chemical Guys Optical Grade Polish #38 - www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-...
- Graphite - shop.chemicalstore.com/naviga...
- Bondo Spot Putty - www.amazon.com/Bondo-907-Glaz...
![CAMPปลิ้น | EP.76[2/2] เดินมาสิบกว่าป่า วันนี้รู้แล้วว่าโจโฉกลัวอะไร!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/R7Yor-t2Au0/mqdefault.jpg)
No expensive and fussy 2K clear coat, no airbrushing, just plain old patience and discipline, working through a process while being consistent and clean. Absolutely love how this came out!
This is an amazing guide! I love how you talk through exactly what you are doing and why, most creators don’t put that attention and detail into their explanations. “We will watch your career with great interest”
Thanks for the feedback! To me it doesn't make sense to show people how to do something without knowing why it is done that way.
A year later and no more videos:(
@@JohnJeppson anyone know why he stopped? just found this video, and was hoping there'd be more content
When that first graphite layer went on... my jaw dropped!! Just watched Bill's video over on punished props and there's just no comparison. Amazing job dude!
This tutorial is fantastic man! Super in depth with tons of bonus tips and things to watch out for. Really great tutorial and I will be modifying my practices in the future for my builds!
Thank you for filming such a detailed and comprehensive video about your process, this really is amazing and i can't wait to give it a try myself!
This is by far the best information on graphite rub finishing! Thank you sir!
Love the guide. I’ll be implementing your techniques into my builds. Thanks for the upload!
This is absolutely amazing guide, and can be used on other stuff as well.. Thank you for sharing!
This is absolutely the best most informative video I have ever seen. I’m following these steps on my newest set of Mando armor.
Dude!!!!! That was a really wicked guide man. Thank you
Simply perfect, nothing more can be said about it.
I have never seen anyone get a graphite rub THAT shiny before, it’s incredible!
WOW!!! THIS is the BEST method I have seen to get that ultra-shine on Mandalorian armor. Yes, it is a long process, but the results look AMAZING, and repair of scuff marks is so easy. Will use your tips when I eventually get to making my own, as well as other armor pieces. Thanks for the video.
Super Anleitung 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽Durch Deine Präsentation habe ich endlich für mich Beste Bearbeitung entdeckt! Vielen Dank für die tolle Anleitung!👊🏽👊🏽👊🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽✅✅✅⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Thank you so much for the excellent step by step video!!! Much appreciated!
Man you are a life saver. This is the best step by step tutorial and you even included the supplies. Amazing
Glad it was helpful!
thanks for sharing your techniques. I just started printing mine!
well done,,was surprised to see that you only have 1 video up.Printing out the 8 Piece Mando Helmet for a friend has inspired me to build my own.Started researching the finish and this will be the last video I watch and will try and duplicate by following your well detailed without over talking instructions.Thank you.
Thanks, planning some additional videos now. Good luck on your build!
i ve been looking for a solution about fingerprints on graphite and this video is the holy grail i was looking for, man, thank you so much for sharing
No problem!
Looks amazing pal, thanks for the tips
Thank you for this!!! I can't wait to try it!!!
Just started printing my armor using the great ape files (I just love my Prusa i3 Mark 3s!) and am collecting all the supplies. Will practice on the first piece using the butt and back plates, then assuming success I’ll do the bracers and finally move on to front and shoulders and then finally the helmet. This way I’ll build experience before doing the ‘show’ pieces … really appreciate you doing such a detailed process video! I now have the confidence I can paint my armor myself!
This video need more views!!thank you ive finally did my Thomas Bangalter helmet yesterday.Just the type of chrome ive always wanted.Wasted a lot of chrome paint and my graphite until i came to this.Most prop makers using black base coat which turn to black chrome instead of "chrome" chrome which i needed.Thank you again!!👍🏻👍🏻
Great Guide! Thanks for sharing! Saved me atleast a million hours :)
Thank you so much for this. all the other videos on the graphite technique were less detailed. Im much more confident in correcting my paint now (mine ended up super dark) thanks!
YOU SAVED MY HELMET! This was certainly not a beginner-friendly project (literally the third thing I ever printed...) and in hindsight I should have known. I didn't wear gloves when I first graphite rubbed it and I left splotches everywhere. Ended up pushing through at it was decent in the end, but the finish wore off very quickly. It became dull and had an almost burnt-steel effect which I expect came from the oil on my fingers. Finally took the time to take out the visor and graphite rub it again using this tutorial (and latex gloves! 😅). What a difference! Alright, I didn't sand the old finish down, didn't rub it and then didn't clear coat it and rub it again, but the method of washing it and being meticulous and slow really works amazing! Sure, it's far from perfect, but it looks great on my shelf again. Satisfied beyond belief. Thank you so much!!
WOW.... Great video thank you for sharing...
I tried it and it turned out epic!
Beautiful finish
Fantastic tutorial. Thanks!
best graphite finish i have seen
This is the way, I have spoken....OMFG!!!!
You can spend more on Alumiluster but you won't get more. 🤯
GREAT VIDEO👍
GREAT video, thank you!
wow, man. so, so good! doing this for sure
Thank you very helpful to see your process
Amazing! Thanks man!
Thank you!!!
I finally just finished the process (took me close to 3 weeks w/my schedule).
Wow, it felt like a 30 step process, LOL. It wasn't that long...I love your results.
My results after following step, by step and getting the same products (all but the same brand of graphite powder), I got some dark/dense patches when I started to lay down the graphite powder.
I need to do my graphite wash and 2nd clear coat tomorrow...Hopefully the 2nd clear and graphite coats will cover the dark splotches as well as the light ones you mentioned.
I may need to wet sand and polish a bit harder...we'll see.
Thanks again for your process. I want to perfect this and get your glimmering results! :)
The blotches are normal. Hope it came out well!
Thank you Joseph! I watched your tutorial, yet again, and you do mention that. Sorry to bother you. I did apply the 2nd clear and graphite coating and yes, it's much better. 🙏
Great video, post some more😊
Interesting, I based on the videos I've seen so far I understood that graphite had to be applied over black to get a chrome finish but this looks great.
This is incredible! I’m overwhelmed by how comprehensive this tutorial is!
After the final graphite application and cleaning, should I allow more time for the clear coat to cure before handling it?
Also after that final graphite application, should I add another clear coat over it or would that be overkill?
You can handle it, just be gentle. Give the paint some time to harden up before really playing with it, couple days.
As for another clear, you absolutely can, just would be dulling it out.
Awesome process video! Love how well explained it is and the result is professional looking.
Any plan to do more videos?
Also I didn’t find any link to an ig or etsy account on your profile?!
Awesome, tested it only once on a black sword blade and it was way too dark, will test it in a grey 2k clear coat when I get a chance.
Love this!! Has anyone tried a clear top coat at the end to tint the graphite chrome to make gold?
I watched this a few times and I’m amazed that you don’t use a gloss black first! I just finished my first Mandalorian helmet using the gloss black as a base. Too dark!! I want to try again using your method. Thanks for this!
Could you possibly do weathering on certain pieces after the final graphite application? Currently about to start this process. As the helmet has some weathering I would like to try it
Great detail! Thanks for all the effort. Has it held up well over the last year? I saw where another person who used a graphite/clear coat process said it didn't hold up as well as he had hoped and would probably use paint the next time around.
It has taken a beating, but I have a lot of hours on it. The bad spots is where something hard hit it, the areas where there was no contact it looks just as good.
Great video and love the process. Anyone got a suggestion on fixing a gouge that cut through the grey primer and clear coat. My thumbnail caught a forward facing edge. Thinking I can sand down the clear coat and re-do the primer then clear again but wondering if sanding the bad area down might be suffice. The gouge is the first white primer coat.
Thank you for the video!! I followed your process and my Armor turned out perfectly. I have used the armor since then and have scratches like you mentioned I need to fix. In the conclusion/portion you mention that you go back wet sand and clear coat but my question is what step do i got back to to fix the scratches specially? the last primer stage to clear? etc? again thank you for the video!!
Congratulations on the finish of the patina with graphite, the result is spectacular, could you explain to me why the last layer of graphite does not stay on your fingers when you touch the piece, do you add some final product that is not seen in the video?
Very helpful video, thanks. Is there anything special or different with your methods when it comes to the helmet given that it is much more round and not as flat like the other pieces?
This is the best tutorial I've seen. I've "remade" my armor twice... so... third time will be a charm!! One question, how in the world do you polish complex surfaces like the guantlets, or places like on the helmet where you have a hard corner (like the ear pieces)?
You don't to a degree. The big areas on the gauntlets you can, but all of the hard edges and stuff it is hard because you will cut through. On mine, I didn't do the wetsand/polish in those spots. Plus with some weathering, you can't really tell. It is the big flat areas that it is noticed since it acts like a mirror.
Edges of the ears and such, just have to be super careful or do it by hand.
You can see my bracers here - pbs.twimg.com/media/FB8vcnBXMAkl-ZA?format=jpg&name=large
@@CT-Props Awesome, thank you so much for the super-quick reply. This armor has certainly been a labor of love, but dang your finish is the best I've seen. I hope I get it as nice as yours!
@@CT-Props Looks pretty amazing. Great photo, too!
@@ThePattyChuck Thanks! If you have any questions, let me know!
after using the clear coat, how many days do you wait for it to cure? you said "a couple of days" how many exactly? Awesome video by the way!
Great guide and I will try it myself!
One question i had was whether you could add an outer protective layer with something like automotive wax and then polish or do you think that would ruin the mirror like effect?
You could try, but I would expect it to ruin it.
I have questions. :D
1. Have you considered reenforcing the back with fibreglass?
2. I've seen a lot of people use a 2K clear coat over the final graphite. Is there a reason you don't do something like that?
Thanks, great tutorial!
1 - You could, I haven't found a need. My first helmet I did fiberglass back along the seams. My current one isn't, no issues. Over 40 hours of trooping in them and no problems.
2 - You could, any coating over the graphite will dull the look though.
Fantastic vid! When you sand the clear coat, are you using 320 or do you start with only a very high grit so as now to chew through it too quickly?
I have it in the video, believe it is 2000 grit on the clear.
@@CT-Props Ah must've missed it, thank you!
Thanks for the info. I wish it was easier for me to hera though! Noise was pretty hard to listen to with headphones
For a helmet piece just done how long should I wait to wear it? Because it just got a clear coat !
Thank you for this video by the way! Great work!!
Awesome guide!
Silly question, but should I be using a separate sink from my usual bathroom and kitchen for the wet sanding? I'm just trying to avoid excessive clogs.
It is less about the clogs and more the mess. My alternate to the sink was being outside with a 5 gallon bucket.
Bought all the stuff. Gonna follow step by step. Tried another graphite and it came out nearly black.
GREAT tutorial! Is it possible to use a varnish or urethane or some other product to stop the graphite from rubbing off ?
Anything you put over the graphite will dull the finish a bit. You can though if you don't mind the look
Do you know if there is some special quality to graphite that makes this work. Or could you possibly archive colored chrome finishes using pigment powders given there super fine quality.
That I do not know, sorry.
Did you consider using a small rotary with a soft pad to apply the graphite? Or is by hand the best method. Any particular application pad you recommend?
Hand is more than sufficient, cotton pads seem to work best.
I know its a little off topic but I am looking for a flat black finish on an automotove a 3D printed part that will be in the sun and weather
I think most of your vide applies to what I am doing. Most of the flat black is enamel you note to avoid enamel, why? I understand the paint and prime portion but I want end up with flat black part that is good ourtoors.
My son is using your vide for the shiny mandalorian helmet you are demoin in the video. He pointed me to you since you mentioned you had done work on the automotive paint side. Great video BTW!
2 questions:
After the second graphite, is there no more clear coat applied?
What is that you applied the graphite with? Cotton pad?
i would like to know how one would weather it with your method. how airbrushing would react to the graphite and such
Great video. I would totally use your method when doing my build. What printer did you use for those size pieces?
I used oil based paints for the weathering. Air brushing will work, but you will run into issues with the paint scratching off.
All prints done on a Prusa MK3S
Could you do a topcoat of clear to protect it a little more?
Another Quick question! You mention that the second graphite rub should be done when the varnish is still not fully cured, so that the graphite can cut in better. If one is not doing the optional polish step, is it perhaps sensible to also do the first rub when the that layer of clear coat is not yet fully cured?
Yes, you could do that. I would test on a test piece though.
Did you build the spray booth? or did you buy it? if so, can you please share. Awesome videos
Amazon buy - www.amazon.com/s?k=spray+booth&crid=1YFBEGYUOZN0D&sprefix=spray+booth%2Caps%2C116&ref=nb_sb_noss_1
Great & thorough video.
I would be interested in seeing your sanding techniques on more detailed objects (Din Djarin's helmet for example), or the inner part of the chest plate. Or if you have a video that covers this, please reply with that link (I will also look). Thank you! 🙏
Generally the same, only difference is small Popsicle sticks or needle files as sanding blocks.
@@CT-Props Thank you. I will be following your method and credit & link to this video this month. Much appreciation! 🙏
@@CT-Props I just noticed you have only one video. Are you still making props? If so, hope to see more from you! 🙂
@@skyrider4789 I will at some point. Life is kind of busy at the moment
@@CT-Props I can appreciate that 100% Happy to know you'll do more in the future. Thanks again!!!
Thank you so much for this detailed guide!! I’m currently doing my mando helmet and this has helped a lot. One question… I can’t seem to find a duplicolor grey sealer here in the UK, do you know of any products that I can use instead? Thanks!
I am not unfortunately. That said, you could use even grey paint and get a similar effect. I would just focus on it being automotive grade and less about brand. Of course, test first on another piece!
@@CT-Props could a grey surface primer work for this purpose (not a filler in this case, but a flat surface primer)? Im in Europe and have a similar issue that I cant find anything here called a primer sealer.
@@PrattleCor It should, you could try just a grey paint as well.
@@CT-Props thanks. And thanks for the awesome tutorial!
Would it be possible to put masking fluid/tape and a layer of paint on top of this if I wanted to use this as a base metal layer that shows through under a weathered paint job?
My speakers aren't that great so I apologize if you already explained this but is there a reason to primer white and then do the black can you just use a light grey primer to get the same result?
Hello brother! I'm from Malaysia and we don't really have access to clean slate product. Is there any similiar or alternative products I can search for or use in that regards?
Love the shine on your work and really appreciate you recording and educating us on it. Thanks!
any type of gentle dish soap should work
@@CT-Props thank you so much for the reply boss
Though i have one more question.
In my country we don't have any dupicolor touch clear spray or clearcoat spray
We only have 1k - 2k clear coat sprays. does that work?
hello..magnificent video..what kind of acrylic lacquer could you give to the graphite so that it does not darken?..thank you very much
I do not use Acrylic, all lacquer. I cover the products I use in the video and in the description.
After the first graphite application, I got the haziness you talked about but worried that if I add more clear I am concerned I am going to lose the glossy smooth finish I just worked so hard to get though al the polishing. Don’t you end up with a little orange peel and a spec of dust or two in the clear?
Hey! I know it's been a year so you probably won't see this, but here's to trying. Could you make a video or explain how you prevent overspray (or dust layer I think you called it?) On the helmet? Basically spraying one side causes the other sides to get slightly misted, ruining the smooth finish.
Good mist extractor, masking and polishing are all possible solutions for you
Hi mate, just wondering if the clear your using is acrylic, I know you said steer clear from enamel, which I 100% agree with but I'm in Australia so can't get most of the brands you have shown, just trying to find an equivalent over here
Sorry for the delay, didn't see this comment. This stuff is all lacquer based, acrylic and enamel will be tough to do.
Do you think this process could be used at least in part on the black series helmet? I bought 3d prints of all the other armor but I want to use the black series helmet with it. I want it all to have the same look, is it possible?
follow up in case anyone else wants to know, you can and I did
Hi, I did my graphite application and have lost of fingerprint. Di you think I can just put primer on the graphite and clear coat etc. On top to restart the process and follow your instructions? Thanks
Could you spray a light silicone lube to help with the preservation? Could give a nice shine and some slip and slide without being wet, spray and wipe off.
Is the goal to avoid surface damage? It is pretty slick as it is since graphite is sometimes used as a lubricant. Only damage I tend to get is hard rub or high impact hits.
Hi there, amazing finish.. I wanted to know the actual process step by step and please correct me if I'm wrong.
After sanding and priming, you go with a clear coat, then you polish the clear coat, then graphite, wash, clear coat again, polish, and graphite ?
Is that the correct sequence ?
THANK YOU
That’s correct!
@@CT-Props missed a step, the sealer ? Is it a grey gloss paint ?
Because I have a black gloss, that's ok too ?
@@PixelForgeLabyou can use black, but the finish will end up being darker
@@CT-Props ok thank you 👍🏼
Can you mask over graphite after you apply a clear coat? I wanted to try some tinted clear coat over some of the graphite, but not all. Some say that with graphite the clear coat doesn't bind as well and the masking tape would pull it up.
Yes, you can put the tape on the clear coat. Just let it dry for awhile first. If you put the tape on the graphite finish, correct, it will not stick well.
What would you recommend to do if you get a little bit of pooling of clear coat in a couple spots after the first graphite layer? Sand it or keep going?
It would really depend on how picky you wan to be. You could do without sanding, but good chance you will see it.
Did u make this stl and if so are u selling it or sharing loved ur cosplay at Grand Rapids
Thanks! Files are from Great Ape Studios on Etsy.
What glue is used to stick together and what if I wanted a black gloss shine?
Hello, I have the Thor hammer aluminum metal and it has like a dull looking to it. So I painted it with 2x clear coat which was okay with the shine. Can I apply graphite powder to it for the chrome looking paint? Just wondering if the graphite powder will stick to the clear coat paint. Thanks a lot!
It will, but you may get some rub off.
I've seen anothr YT Vid where the 2k Clear Coat did not cling well 2 the graphite powder, nor does it withstand flaking or rubbing off. It looks horrible. So is it better 2 use chrome-colored paint then Clear Coat on top instead of graphite powder?? Clear Coat sticks 2 paint, not power. Wht do U recommend?? If choosing 2 wear armors as Cosplay frequently, which painting/graphite method would U suggests as tried & tru?? I need 2 kno b4 I invest in ths Project...
Can you perhaps write down how the time intervals between the individual work steps should be? Thanks!
Those details are all in the video
Da mein Englisch nicht so gut ist, muss ich besser hinhören… wenn ich es richtig verstanden habe, hast Du nach dem Klarlack nach 6 Std. 2 mal Graphite aufgetragen und nach 24 Std gewaschen?! Die Produkte bekomme ich in Deutschland nur von anderen Marken… der Klarlack ist 1 K ?! Du machst am Anfang nur Primer drauf und Klarlack ?! Dann polierst Du danach… Sorry das ich so genau frage, aber möchte exakt Deine Schritte durch machen.
@@BOJA_FETT Grundierung/Versiegelung, dann Klarlack, Politur, dann Graphit. Ich habe die erste Schicht nach einiger Zeit aufgetragen, damit sie aushärtet, da sie poliert werden musste. Ein 1K sollte funktionieren.
Danke! Du hast die erste Schicht Graphit nach der Politur, dann wäscht Du diese sofort ab?! Dann machst Du 3 mal in Abstand von 15 Minuten 1 K Klarlack drauf. Du wartest 6 Stunden und machst Graphit drauf . Wartest Du 24 Std. bevor Du letztmalig abwäscht? Danke
I don't know much about paints, why do you want to avoid enamel? I used Rust-Oleum 500° engine enamel as the base coat. I had a few issues with marks in the paint, is that because it's enamel?
Does the specific brand of graphite powder matter? I’m getting really confused because my results are not even close to this.
47:04 So can this be done with a tack cloth or degreaser?
Will an IPA spray work for the cleaning process
so i was wondering, can you use this method too for weathered paint like as in the silver bekar for a paint chipping effect, i am currently working on my orginal mandalorian cosplay and want to create a look with some painted beskar and some not painted beskar. so i wonder if you can spray paint over it or add some clear coat and then spraypaint over it?
You can, did the same with my leg plate
@@CT-Props ah thanks!
How do you clean your parts prior to applying primer? Would a wipe with isopropyl and paper towel work? Then a light wipe with a tack cloth?
Light wipe with a lint free cloth. IPA or any other solvent/cleaner can damage the primer.
@@CT-Props what about removing the grease from handling it with your fingers? Dish soap and warm water?
Is the sealer needed? Is it possible to just clear over the dupli-color primer?
It is, but the sealer will give more gloss which leads to a better finish
Could you use the same process except instead of graphic use a spay paint colour?
Also what step would u use resin?
This tutorial is awesome some much detail. can I ask how you sized the chest and back pieces and do you have the STL files or a template
They are all using the GreatApe files from Etsy. I sized them using the ArmorSmith app you can find via Google. Punch all of your measures in and it will get you pretty close on sizing.
In Canada, one can of that 'cheap' Rust-oleum filler/primer is about $35-$40, and the nozzles clog after one use something like 50% of the time.
Pricing is pretty much the same for the other brands, so I basically dropped out of the paint finishing game for my hobby prints.
You'll definitely want to look into the protective gear you need to work with large amounts of it, but another really effective way I've seen people smooth prints is with UV resin, specifically the stuff used for resin printing. A bottle of it may be a more cost effective way to finish prints if you're ok with the safety concerns. Another channel called Vaultfox has a really good video talking about it while making a Bo Katan cosplay.
Edit: I just tried checking CA Amazon and it seems like you can get a 1L bottle for between $22-25, which should cover a bunch.
@@MikeKatsar Thanks for the info. I have actually used the resin 'trick' before, but my concern is usually not so much focused on smoothing, but rather painting the printed item to whatever colour I need. Smoothing I can get done satisfactorily (for me needs) by sanding alone.
Currently, I sand an item, then blow a few layers of acrylic paint on it with my airbrush, followed by an acrylic clear-coat of some kind (either Pledge floor wax or varnish). No more spray-bombs for me...
@@imacmill ah, gotcha. My bad, I misinterpreted the issue a bit. Unfortunately I don't have any other tricks for that one. Good luck/happy crafting, man, hopefully you find a cheap source of paints, airbrush adds up lol
@@MikeKatsar Dirt-cheap acrylics from a Dollar Store...they work perfectly.