I Just got my 3d printer and a Mandalorian helmet is my eventual goal. To think, I figured I'd have to look for just that perfect chrome type paint to use. Turns out all i need is graphite!!!
I love that you showed every step of the process version skipping steps for a quicker video. I’ve battle with that. Think I’m going make a full step series, showing ever grit and every layer. That way in further videos I can be like go back to ep1 of revert steps playlist lol
Thanks for watching… The helmet takes very little graphite, and it will only build up to a certain point and stop. As soon as it’s shiny it won’t take any more graphite, so you don’t have to worry about making some parts more shiny than others. Hope that helps.
about your supports, because its a helmet I would recommend printing it without the supports in the middle. The print would end up looking really weird at the top but you can use putty and filler prime to get rid of all that.
Love the video! I’m fixing to paint and weather my black series mando helmet so this helps a lot. Also I was wearing headphones and the voice at 18:10 scared the shit out of me! lmao
Very good work. You seldom see this demand for quality. Most of them just want to have their helmets ready quickly and forget that you just have to take the time it takes to get such a perfect result. I have also printed this exact helmet for the last 5 days and am already looking forward to the result, but it will probably take 1 to 2 weeks. You have to be able to enjoy yourself, but also listen to Star Wars radio plays and everything is good :-) From Google Translate because I don't speak english very well. Nice greetings from Germany.
Bro, make this WAYYYY easier on yourself… buy some resin for resin printers, and mix it 1 part resin and 2.5 parts corn starch… you want it the consistency of Elmer’s glue, maybe a tiny bit thicker… you just brush it on with a sponge brush and it fills any gap and smooths layer lines. Not only filling lines, it makes the print stronger. Have a UV light source or take it outside to cure each layer you paint on… saves soooo much time. Sands completely smooth like glass
Hi Ryan, I’ve heard of other people putting a clearcoat over it and it does dull the luster/shininess a little bit. I would definitely test on a small sample to see if you like it before covering the whole helmet.
Absolutely amazing. I have the black series helmet and I love the way it looks but your finish is definitely better. Well done. If you were to sell one like the one in the video how much would you sell it for?
hi mate, congratulations, excellent work. Could you guide me a bit with the main parameters that you use for the supports, I can't get them to come out as easy as yours. Thank you
That looks amazing! I’m think of doing the graphite rub method as well but I have a question. Does it easily rub off on fingers or anything it touches?
It can come off on moist fingers but very slight to not at all, in my experience. But if your cosplaying with gloves on it really doesn’t come off or smear on cloths. I wouldn’t wear white of course ;). And if you buff it clean the graphite stays on pretty well.
If you cosplay, vinyl will be more robust with people touching, etc. I haven’t had any issue with the graphite coming off, just greasy fingerprints that show. But they can be polished out with a microfiber cloth.
What printing model is most used to print the helmet? I want to be able to make all the armor, but I don't know which 3D printer might be the most appropriate. thank you
Well, it really depends on the size of your head, I didn’t change the helmet dimensions any, but it printed fine on my 300mm x 300mm printer bed. But you can print it in sections as well, it requires more sanding and gluing.
Nope not at all, after you polish the graphite in It doesn’t come off, just make sure you use a good, fine, graphite. Fingers may make prints but just rub with a microfiber.
I know it would help with fingerprints showing if you did apply a clear coat, but I didn’t use anything. I would test a small area with the clear coat of your choice, just to see how it looks before applying to a complete helmet.
Thank you! Yes, at its widest point it’s 23in / 58.5cm. I actually did not resize the model, it worked perfect for my head and the one I built for my friend. Once I added some foam it fit snug in my head.
@@masterhobbyist thank you so much for getting back to me. That's almost the perfect size for me, can't wait to get building mine although mine may take a while longer to print as mine will be printed on the ender 3 v2. Thanks again for getting back to me
134 hours?! Is this what it was like 3d printing a year ago?! I'm a newb and just got one recently so no clue. Has it progressed that far? I've printed two and the they were between 1 day 13 hours for a teenage girl sized head, and 2 days 9 hours for a large male size one.
Im planning on making one with the graphite powder, just for display. I was wondering, after sitting on the shelf and collection some dust on it, does the graphite come off when its cleaned/wiped down?
No, it does very well, dust doesn’t affect it at all. Just brush off the dust with a dry microfiber cloth. Graphite is a natural lubricant for door locks etc, so nothing really sticks to it.
Hey man I know I have been blowing you up but does the micron number on graphite powder matter because i bought some from amazon and the color of my armor is coming out very dark looks cool but not the chrome look of the mando. its 44 microns do you know if the higher the micron the darker the powder or anything like that?
Yes the smaller the micron size the finer the powder so I would stick to a lower number to get a shiny-er chrome look. 44micron is bigger than the 5micron I used. But the good thing is you should be able to get the finer (smaller) micron graphite and reapply over what you have, if you want a brighter chrome look. No problem on the questions, keep them coming.
@@masterhobbyist awesome I ordered the stuff you are using unfortunately I hat already hit with a clear coat so it's finished but the future pieces should be perfect
I used simplify3d to slice, PLA, medium quality setting, 15% infill, 4 top and bottom solid layers, .2mm layer height, 2 outline perimeters, a 2 layer raft, 60 bed temp, and 215 extruder. Cooling fan speed 100% on layer 2. Hope that helps.
Thanks my friend for your fine work.Would you mind sharing your speed settings when you print (60 default). I watched some vids to cut down build time on simple pieces, when I increased to 100 or even 80, I had adhesion problems as soon as the skirt was laid out. They were much worse until I lowered the nozzle with Z, is it likely I'm still not close enough to the bed? Increasing to 80 shouldn't make a circle "skirt" fail to stick? I so appreciate helping a noob
I did not use any clearcoat. But if you have a lot of greasy fingers touching the helmet, the fingerprints will show up but polishing them out is very easy.
I let mine sit for one day, but I did spray indoors and had very little humidity. If you spray outdoors it may take a little longer to dry, but I’ve had success letting it dry 2 days, if I ever found it was too wet to sand. Usually if the paint comes off in “tacky streaks” on your sand paper you may want to let it dry longer. I used 600 and 800 grit for any drips or imperfections. Make sure you use plenty of water while sanding, and let the sandpaper soak in water a few minutes before using.
@@masterhobbyist thank you so much I'm working on my first commission Mando armor and its my first time doing it lol I know a bit of an undertaking for a first time but so far I followed all your steps for the chest plate and it looks immaculate! Your video was honestly the first one to actually help
@@trumpeter12400 After sanding, do you wipe all residue and dry the helmet? Make sure it’s not going on too thick also. Are you using the rust oleum farm and implement spray paint?
At its widest point it’s 23in / 58.5cm. I actually did not resize the model, it worked perfect for my head and the one I built for my friend. Once I added some foam it fit snug on my head.
It can still rub off, but with gloves, (If you’re cosplaying) will of course prevent most prints. Fingers will leave a grease print, but a little buffing with a microfiber cloth will take it right out. It also sticks to the paint underneath very well.
@@jonahfecker477 I've heard that a clear sealer can make it not as shiny, but I haven’t tested any sealers. If you do I would do a test piece first. I don’t mind not having a sealer, Once it’s buffed into the paint it really doesn’t come off.
Just make sure the paint is totally dry. Also be aware finger prints will show up after you get it alll done, and just rubbing it with a soft cloth will polish them out .
The link to the model file is in the description, I believe there is still a file for printing it in sections as well. My printer bed was 300 x 300 mm. I’m not sure about the ender3 v2 specs.
Hey brother! Great video. I followed the same steps with my helmet and the helmet looks great! However, I guess I had some fingerprints on the black gloss and when I put the graphite powder on it revealed them and it won’t go away haha! Any tips?
You might want to try a high grit sandpaper, like 3000, 6000, or higher. It might take a little while to get it sanded just don’t go too deep and remove all the paint, just get the prints out and reapply the graphite. The high grit should keep the paint glossy. Good luck, and thanks!
one of the best 3d printed Mando helmet I've seen! great work!
Thanks so much!
I Just got my 3d printer and a Mandalorian helmet is my eventual goal. To think, I figured I'd have to look for just that perfect chrome type paint to use. Turns out all i need is graphite!!!
I love that you showed every step of the process version skipping steps for a quicker video. I’ve battle with that. Think I’m going make a full step series, showing ever grit and every layer. That way in further videos I can be like go back to ep1 of revert steps playlist lol
Hi, i trully appreciate your work, i'm finishing up one myself but i have a doubt, how much graphite do you apply and when do you know it's enough?
Thanks for watching… The helmet takes very little graphite, and it will only build up to a certain point and stop. As soon as it’s shiny it won’t take any more graphite, so you don’t have to worry about making some parts more shiny than others. Hope that helps.
Love the Tolkein templates in the background...
That turned out great! Graphite is like magic
That turned out great! Nice job! And thanks for the 3d model credit.
Absolutely, and thank you for sharing such a great model!
Insane!this is the Way!
about your supports, because its a helmet I would recommend printing it without the supports in the middle. The print would end up looking really weird at the top but you can use putty and filler prime to get rid of all that.
Wow that is one good looking helmet Amazing
Wow! It looks so good. Seems like a lot of work for some rando “buddy.” I hope he really appreciates you.
Not just any rando, my best rando!
Fantastic looking helmet that is!
Thx very much!
Love the video! I’m fixing to paint and weather my black series mando helmet so this helps a lot. Also I was wearing headphones and the voice at 18:10 scared the shit out of me! lmao
OMG I had no idea I left that in there…rofl, my bad!! That is scary.
Very good work. You seldom see this demand for quality. Most of them just want to have their helmets ready quickly and forget that you just have to take the time it takes to get such a perfect result.
I have also printed this exact helmet for the last 5 days and am already looking forward to the result, but it will probably take 1 to 2 weeks. You have to be able to enjoy yourself, but also listen to Star Wars radio plays and everything is good :-)
From Google Translate because I don't speak english very well.
Nice greetings from Germany.
Thanks so much for the comment, I tend to take way too long on my projects, I'm a stickler for details 🙂
amazing work
What support settings did you use for that?
Bro, make this WAYYYY easier on yourself… buy some resin for resin printers, and mix it 1 part resin and 2.5 parts corn starch… you want it the consistency of Elmer’s glue, maybe a tiny bit thicker… you just brush it on with a sponge brush and it fills any gap and smooths layer lines. Not only filling lines, it makes the print stronger. Have a UV light source or take it outside to cure each layer you paint on… saves soooo much time. Sands completely smooth like glass
Awesome! I've seen this from other TH-camrs, it does look easier. Thanks for the tip!
Would it be possible to add a gloss clear coat after the graphite application to negate it running off?
Hi Ryan, I’ve heard of other people putting a clearcoat over it and it does dull the luster/shininess a little bit. I would definitely test on a small sample to see if you like it before covering the whole helmet.
Absolutely amazing. I have the black series helmet and I love the way it looks but your finish is definitely better. Well done. If you were to sell one like the one in the video how much would you sell it for?
hi mate, congratulations, excellent work. Could you guide me a bit with the main parameters that you use for the supports, I can't get them to come out as easy as yours. Thank you
Didn't you apply clear coat after the high gloss black?
Nope, the farm and implement paint has a high gloss finish, so no need for clear over the black.
Don't forget to add the inner head padding
looks fire
Thank you!
Very helpful. Thanks for this!
excellent video! What black spray did you use to give that shiny finish?
The link for the 3d files isnt clickable. Where did you get the files? Nice work
That looks amazing! I’m think of doing the graphite rub method as well but I have a question. Does it easily rub off on fingers or anything it touches?
It can come off on moist fingers but very slight to not at all, in my experience. But if your cosplaying with gloves on it really doesn’t come off or smear on cloths. I wouldn’t wear white of course ;). And if you buff it clean the graphite stays on pretty well.
@@masterhobbyist Good to know! Thanks for the response!
I’m torn between using the grafite powder and or Silver / Chrome vinyl wrap . I’m weary of the Grafite coming off my Mando armor .
If you cosplay, vinyl will be more robust with people touching, etc. I haven’t had any issue with the graphite coming off, just greasy fingerprints that show. But they can be polished out with a microfiber cloth.
What printing model is most used to print the helmet? I want to be able to make all the armor, but I don't know which 3D printer might be the most appropriate. thank you
Well, it really depends on the size of your head, I didn’t change the helmet dimensions any, but it printed fine on my 300mm x 300mm printer bed. But you can print it in sections as well, it requires more sanding and gluing.
Hi, after the graphite ? do you put something on it to set ? clear coat ?
Nothing was used to clear coat the graphite.
@@DavidSpencer22 really? Doesn't stain your hands ?
Nope not at all, after you polish the graphite in It doesn’t come off, just make sure you use a good, fine, graphite. Fingers may make prints but just rub with a microfiber.
@@DavidSpencer22 thank you !
Now after applying the graphite powder do you have to apply a clear coat? cause i have seen some people do that.
I know it would help with fingerprints showing if you did apply a clear coat, but I didn’t use anything. I would test a small area with the clear coat of your choice, just to see how it looks before applying to a complete helmet.
excellent build, may i ask the Circumference of your head and what scale you used for the build
Thank you! Yes, at its widest point it’s 23in / 58.5cm. I actually did not resize the model, it worked perfect for my head and the one I built for my friend. Once I added some foam it fit snug in my head.
@@masterhobbyist thank you so much for getting back to me. That's almost the perfect size for me, can't wait to get building mine although mine may take a while longer to print as mine will be printed on the ender 3 v2. Thanks again for getting back to me
Absolutely, glad I can help! Let me know if any more questions if you need.
Awesome 💥😯👏🏿👏🏿👏🏿😀😁👍🏿
134 hours?! Is this what it was like 3d printing a year ago?! I'm a newb and just got one recently so no clue. Has it progressed that far? I've printed two and the they were between 1 day 13 hours for a teenage girl sized head, and 2 days 9 hours for a large male size one.
Im planning on making one with the graphite powder, just for display. I was wondering, after sitting on the shelf and collection some dust on it, does the graphite come off when its cleaned/wiped down?
No, it does very well, dust doesn’t affect it at all. Just brush off the dust with a dry microfiber cloth. Graphite is a natural lubricant for door locks etc, so nothing really sticks to it.
This is the way.
How long did you wait before applying graphite did you wait another 24 hours
Yes, just make sure it is completely dry and not tacky.
Amazing 👏 😎👍
Thanks so much!
Anyone have the link to the tinted protective shield for the visor?
Hi Neil, I've included the link in the description now. Here's a copy of it. Thanks! amzn.to/39M25gF
@@masterhobbyist Thank you!! So excited to follow your process, I’ve just finished printing all my pieces!
@@neil12 awesome would love to see the finished helmet!
what am I doing wrong, the powder is just falling off the helmet? I am using the same brand as you do....? Thx
Was it glossy and clean before you applied the graphite?
Hey man I know I have been blowing you up but does the micron number on graphite powder matter because i bought some from amazon and the color of my armor is coming out very dark looks cool but not the chrome look of the mando. its 44 microns do you know if the higher the micron the darker the powder or anything like that?
Yes the smaller the micron size the finer the powder so I would stick to a lower number to get a shiny-er chrome look. 44micron is bigger than the 5micron I used. But the good thing is you should be able to get the finer (smaller) micron graphite and reapply over what you have, if you want a brighter chrome look. No problem on the questions, keep them coming.
@@masterhobbyist awesome I ordered the stuff you are using unfortunately I hat already hit with a clear coat so it's finished but the future pieces should be perfect
So apply this when the paint is completely dry?
Yes, completely dry.
Great video! What settings did you use?
I used simplify3d to slice, PLA, medium quality setting, 15% infill, 4 top and bottom solid layers, .2mm layer height, 2 outline perimeters, a 2 layer raft, 60 bed temp, and 215 extruder. Cooling fan speed 100% on layer 2. Hope that helps.
Thank you very much!
Awesome job! I had recently downloaded the file, but I want to make sure I have enough filament for it. How much did you use?
Thank you! Appreciate it. I would make sure you have at least half of a normal size 1kg (2.2lb) roll of pla.
very nice :) can i ask how much does the helmet weight?
Thanks my friend for your fine work.Would you mind sharing your speed settings when you print (60 default). I watched some vids to cut down build time on simple pieces, when I increased to 100 or even 80, I had adhesion problems as soon as the skirt was laid out. They were much worse until I lowered the nozzle with Z, is it likely I'm still not close enough to the bed? Increasing to 80 shouldn't make a circle "skirt" fail to stick? I so appreciate helping a noob
Just a follow-up, noob mistake, my nozzle wasn't close enough to the build plate causing sticking issues, thanks for the help!
Would you be able to provide a link to the specific typed of glues you used too? Thanks!
Hey Neil, here's the link for the hot glue: amzn.to/39aqNXI
@@masterhobbyist thanks! What about the glue for the ear and vent pieces? Thanks again for all the resources!
hi, did you use some coat after graphite powder is placed?
I did not use any clearcoat. But if you have a lot of greasy fingers touching the helmet, the fingerprints will show up but polishing them out is very easy.
How long did you let the gloss coat sit for before wet sanding and applying the next coat? And what grit sand paper are you using for wet sanding?
I let mine sit for one day, but I did spray indoors and had very little humidity. If you spray outdoors it may take a little longer to dry, but I’ve had success letting it dry 2 days, if I ever found it was too wet to sand. Usually if the paint comes off in “tacky streaks” on your sand paper you may want to let it dry longer. I used 600 and 800 grit for any drips or imperfections. Make sure you use plenty of water while sanding, and let the sandpaper soak in water a few minutes before using.
@@masterhobbyist thank you so much I'm working on my first commission Mando armor and its my first time doing it lol I know a bit of an undertaking for a first time but so far I followed all your steps for the chest plate and it looks immaculate! Your video was honestly the first one to actually help
@@trumpeter12400 You bet! I’m glad it helped!
@@masterhobbyist so i am having an issue where upon wet sanding and applying a second coat it starts doing this cracking thing
any pointers
@@trumpeter12400 After sanding, do you wipe all residue and dry the helmet? Make sure it’s not going on too thick also. Are you using the rust oleum farm and implement spray paint?
Favorite part of the video: "I'd probably use a glove, but you know, YOLO".
Whats the head size?
At its widest point it’s 23in / 58.5cm. I actually did not resize the model, it worked perfect for my head and the one I built for my friend. Once I added some foam it fit snug on my head.
How do you get the graphite to stay and not rub off on your fingers or anything?
It can still rub off, but with gloves, (If you’re cosplaying) will of course prevent most prints. Fingers will leave a grease print, but a little buffing with a microfiber cloth will take it right out. It also sticks to the paint underneath very well.
@@masterhobbyist thank you would you recommend putting a sealer on top of it or just leave it be?
@@jonahfecker477 I've heard that a clear sealer can make it not as shiny, but I haven’t tested any sealers. If you do I would do a test piece first. I don’t mind not having a sealer, Once it’s buffed into the paint it really doesn’t come off.
how long should i wait to put on my graphite powder???
Just make sure the paint is totally dry. Also be aware finger prints will show up after you get it alll done, and just rubbing it with a soft cloth will polish them out .
@@DavidSpencer22 thank you so much! Im waiting for my paint to dry right now :)
One piece? Can this be done on an Ender 3 V2 Neo? Do you sell the STL? Dad helping his kid make his 1st helmet
The link to the model file is in the description, I believe there is still a file for printing it in sections as well. My printer bed was 300 x 300 mm. I’m not sure about the ender3 v2 specs.
@@DavidSpencer22 220x220x230, had to print 8 pieces
Mine looking good but a bit darker than yours. Don't know why.
Dang, 134 hours? Mine took about 32 hours.
Hey where did you get visor template ?
It’s actually in the .stl file for the helmet.
Acetone is a great glue for PLA
hermoso!!!!!!!
👏👏👏👏👏
Hey brother! Great video. I followed the same steps with my helmet and the helmet looks great! However, I guess I had some fingerprints on the black gloss and when I put the graphite powder on it revealed them and it won’t go away haha! Any tips?
You might want to try a high grit sandpaper, like 3000, 6000, or higher. It might take a little while to get it sanded just don’t go too deep and remove all the paint, just get the prints out and reapply the graphite. The high grit should keep the paint glossy. Good luck, and thanks!
can u please share the STL file?
It’s in the description of the video. Thx!
YOLO 🤣
So you just print it… lol all the works done by the printer..
Yessir I’m just the assembler ;)
You really don't know what you are talking about