Finishing 3D prints - Filling and sanding print lines for props
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 พ.ค. 2024
- Filling 3D prints to remove the filament lines is essential to creating finished props. In this tutorial I talk about the process generally, and then show my favorite method using Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty thinned with acetone to rapidly apply fast-drying coats. I then sand the filler smooth, and move to using a final pass of Filler Primer, that gets wet-sanded smooth. A final coat of primer reveals the smooth surface, ready for paint.
Prints used in this tutorial:
- Custom Mandalorian helmet "The Operator" by Alter Ego Armory, files found here: www.etsy.com/listing/16557339...
-Print of the helmet purchased from Villainous Prop Shop: www.etsy.com/listing/16605987...
-Custom Mandalorian Shoulder "SB-MK2" by Alter Ego Armory, files found here:www.etsy.com/listing/12832421...
-Print of the shoulder purchased from Villainous Prop Shop: www.etsy.com/listing/13048261...
- Mandalorian Right Thigh: File by Great Ape Studio Art, print purchased from Clever3DStudio: www.etsy.com/listing/11252043...
Sanding sticks: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
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See some of my other weathering tutorial videos:
Part 1: Weathering Theory - • Prop Weathering Tutori...
Part 2: Acrylic Wash Weathering - • Prop Weathering Tutori...
Part 3: Chipped Paint Weathering - • Prop Weathering Tutori...
Part 4: Fuller's Earth Weathering - • Prop Weathering Tutori...
Part 5: Alcohol Ink Speckle Weathering - • Prop Weathering 5: Alc...
Custom Costume Cases tutorials (part 1-4): • Customizing Costume Co...
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This channel is criminally underrated. This is easily the most comprehensive video I've seen on finishing printed parts
thank you so much!
Completely agree
I've watched a bunch the last couple days, this is easily the best one I've found.
When I finally used the right sanding paper I was so happy 😂 Good paper makes the difference!
Tired of seeing TH-cam shorts. I love long firm videos like this where i can really absorb a lot of information. Thank you so much for this!
thank you! I originally was going to try and make it much shorter, but I realized it helped more to show it real time to get an idea of the speed of drying.
@@OddViking it is much appreciated. I found myself staring at it because it was drying so quickly! New subscription
I really appreciate you showing us the full process and technique. Most TH-camrs only show the interesting parts and cut out the labor intensive sections. This is how it’s really done.
I was thinking of editing it to something short, but I realized showing it realtime was valuable.
@@OddVikingusers always have the option to speed it up. I appreciate this long format cuz it really captured all the nuances and steps and what not. Really nice techniques and I learned a lot of new stuff. Great job.
Thanks again Colin for taking the time to document the processes you employ! I wanted to offer two additional tips in sanding if you or someone else wants to try it out. 1) for wet sanding try adding a drop of dish soap to your water and the sand paper will glide over the surface and keep the paper even cleaner. This especially works well on the higher grit numbers like 600+
And 2) I use a sanding sponge or even a scrap of EVA to wrap the paper around so you don’t accidentally get finger marks in surfaces. The soft eva will contour to the surface well. Happy crafting!
Excellent tips, thanks!
Hope you’re doing well man. Thanks for the knowledge dumps. It really helps out newbies like me. Greatly appreciated
I am follow8mg all of your tips and tricks for a Fallout NCR Ranger helmet. You have been a great help. Keep up all the great work you do!
Just a few suggestions/observations for consideration.
My current method is to give the part a quick sand with 120grit to knock down any real high spots. I then do a fairly light spray of filler primer.
In my experience filler primer will gum up sandpaper if you don't allow it to cure. If you sand too early, the primer is quite soft, but a day or so later it wet sands without any gummy residue or buildup.
I sand my initial primer layer down to where I can see the original print. I do this because as the name suggests it is filler primer. Spraying on primer really thick may fill, but the more product you put on the more you change the dimensionality of the part. In my opinion you want the filler primer to fill the layer lines, but only to where the low and high peaks are equalized. Minimal material.
Then, I go in with the Bondo. From what I have read, Bondo is actually quite soft even when cured. The function of the product is actually to fill in "spots" of scratches and such. It isn't really designed to fill in deep lines. I suspect a 2-part bondo is more appropriate for this.
Using the Bondo as a spot putty means I don't have to use much of it. Only where things are deep are where I need to concentrate it full strength. After drying for a few hours I wet sand this (to keep dust down).
Then, I go over the part again with a few thin layers of filler primer. I wait a day or so then wet sand it down with 400 grit. I usually burn through in a few spots, but it is okay because at this point it is quite smooth.
I check once again for any parts that might need Bondo, then hit the part with the final few light layers of primer. After a day or so, I wet sand with 800 grit very lightly just to get it all smooth. I try to avoid burning through edges.
I find doing it this way wastes way less product. It also avoids filling detail with Bondo/paint that needs to be sanded out or sculpted out with a tool. As mentioned, I also don't think thick applications of Bondo are the most durable, so I try to keep the product(s) just thick enough to bring the low spots and high spots to the same level. Finally, it seems to cut down on added weight. Lathering on product adds a lot of bulk to parts which adds up over the entire costume/prop.
There are of course hundreds of methods and I think the one in the video is great. But, perhaps someone might try the method I outlined above to see if it works.
That is a good process. In the end my method doesn't add significant weight or build up, it is still a minimal layer to get it perfectly smooth. But I love that there are dozens of paths to the same result, and your method sounds great too!
Very cool. This is going to help out my mando build for my son.
Thank you so much for the details. I am starting down this path to learn and this is one of the best videos I have seen!
I am glad it was helpful!
Got me thinking that I need to look through my pieces again. The bondo paint concept is a really solid one, and it looks easy to do. Thank you for this tutorial.
The Bondo technique is a great way to get it done. I am a woodworker and use a similar techniques with grainy woods, especially Red Oak. I mix drywall mud with water to a pancake batter consistency, then paint it on the wood. After one sanding, the grain is usually filled and once painted, the appearance is perfectly smooth. Great video!
Couple of ideas for you.
1) debuting tool for edges
2) heat gun or little flamer burner will reduce a lot
3) seems on some parts you can force the seem to inside of part.
4) Variable layer near the top Leila save stair casing
5) increase top and bottom layers so you don’t blow through Into infill when sanding
6) use acetone with abs to make a glue or use acetone to glue abs parts directly - abs welding
What an AWESOME video. It seems like people don't like to show us how to do this stuff because it's like a trade secret. You did an awesome job and made it seem simple and like anyone can do it. And they can now that you've generously shared your technique. THANK YOU again.
Thank you so much! I only learned what I know by others sharing what they knew.
I had no idea you could water down Bondo, so thank you for that. Side note, PLEASE wear a mask when you're working with that stuff, especially sanding, you do not want that in your lungs. Thank you for the help.
Excellent resource and video, as always!
I don’t know how you weren’t in my recommendations before now. I watch Van Oaks, Smugglers Room and all those guys 🤷🏽♂️.
I’m subscribed now though!
I love your workshop! Looks awesome!
Very comprehensive and detailed tutorial. This helped a lot. Thank you
Always good stuff. Thanks for another helpful video. 👍
Thank you for the tutorial! You explain things that's easy to follow 👍
As always, the GOAT of props!!!
Great video! Thanks for sharing your process. I learned a lot and it gets me excited about my next project.
Glad youre ok and back in the shop... We love you brother
Great tutorial, Colin! Happy to see you in the shop and hope you're doing well!
Prefect timing, my first prop helmet just finished printing yesterday! definitely going to use this method
Subbed. I didn't realize it was an hour video lol it went by so quick. Thank you for the awesome tips.
This has to be one of the best ways I have come across to smooth out lines. Thank you!
Thank you! I has been my favorite method for a year now.
This is such a perfect video, im about to be starting on my first 3d printed prop and this video is gonna be such an amazing help
Another excellent tutorial, Colin!
Thanks man!
Awesome video! I have been doing nearly the same process, but hadn’t thought to thin the Bondo and brush it on. Definitely going to try that!
Ok, underrated, must subscribe, many thanks...
Awesome!! Thanks so much, I’ll be using this on my new 3D printed stuff!
Hello! Thanks for the great instructions. I'm currently in the process of making my first helmet and am grateful to have found your tutorial. This way I don't have to make some mistakes myself and the result will certainly be better!
This will be my go to video. Thank you.
Super detailed video thanks! Great tips for a new maker!
Man, this is the masterclass in finishing! Thank you for the awesome video, wisdom and knowledge. 🙏
Thank you!
very useful tutorial！ Great work
For your initial trimming you might try a cabinet scraper - i think they work much better than a blade
Love the information in this video. I will be able to cut down on soooo much time. Thank you!!!
That is what I have found, it is just a lot faster.
Thank you for your videos, these have helped me incredibly as Ive started 3d printing!
You are so welcome!
This is a great tutorial. It too have tried everything and settled on a process that is basically exactly this. Occasionally I'll apply a layer of XTC-3D before doing a final wet sand/primer/wet sand. Doing this makes the surface a bit more scratch resistant since the bondo and filler primer are both so soft.
Super helpful! thanks for sharing
thanks for a lot of information. some great pointers i did not know!
This is excellent. Thank you
Can’t wait to see the video on my metallic as well! Great video.
that may take a while. I was planning on filming these pieces, but it is difficult to with the 2K spray and a respirator. it was preventing me from moving forward, so I had to just coat them.
@@OddViking No worries man, great content all around.
Great tips. Thanks
Hello Master, your videos have given me the motivation to sand even more... hahahaha
I want to ask you a question, how do I remove the paint from PLA without damaging it, what product to use and thus start a whole new filling and sanding process? I thank you, a hug and thank you for your teachings, master.
Thank you so much!
Another awesome video! Cheers :)
Haha, finally I see someone who likes sanding as much as I do 🙂
Too bad I saw this video only now, I had to figure it out on my own a long time ago.
Great work!
sanding is part of it, the toil we endure to get a finished prop. any way to reduce it is worth it!
@@OddViking I find sanding satisfying, a bit like meditation. The result is even more rewarding.
Very good vid. Sanding is always the pain 😄In fact I'm watching this while sanding. Yet, that bondo spot putty is great to use. I've tried resin which is ok, but prefer the bondo,
Glad I saw your post on Mando Merc Builder FB before they deleted it.
Ah, I hadn't checked back. It is just a free tutorial to help out with print lines, not at all a commercial enterprise.
Thank you!
I would love to see a video on how you add a metallic finish to your prints as you mentioned at 0:54. I’ve been trying to do that on my own with spray paint. I got one spray paint was retired so I could only buy it off of eBay called Revell chrome spray. From what I’ve seen it’s the only spray paint that actually works as chrome with its mirror finish. Anyways well done on this fully comprehensive video. I just subscribed. I’m looking forward to seeing more of your content.
getting a mirror chrome is not easy, and not really as possible from a rattle can. the best one of those options is Spaz Stix, but it really takes an airbrush to get a true mirror metallic look. The two vital steps is a mirror glossy black base layer, and then once metallic, only a 2-part 2K gloss can coat it without dulling the metallic. 2K requires a lot more to apply it, including a vapor level respirator, but that’s the only way. I mix it and spray it with an HPLV gun, but it does come in a can that you can use for only 48 hours once mixed. all other clears will dull metallics by micro-lifting the flakes that make it chrome.
so it’s tricky to achieve, and even trickier to film for me with the respirator.
@@OddViking thank you for the advice. I will definitely be thinking about that when it comes to getting a good chrome finish.
great tutorial and knowledge as always! Big fan of bondo and Acetone myself! I actually use isopropyl instead of acetone though cause thats what I had on hand and I found it works the same! haha also highly suggest silicone cups for the mix, easy to reuse and clean!
oh, good to know that alcohol can work!
Mohawk makes a wood putty stick that I like to use for sharp edges and deeper print lines.
I can cut the spot putty?! This is going to save me hours!
And it paints on a thinner coat, so you can reach the minimum coverage needed without losing much detail.
This is the way.
I need to invest in the bigger tube of Glazing Putty. I always forget that it comes in larger tubes.
Great video! You spent a lot of time talking about the process and really appreciate that! I've been wanting to try the acetone and bondo method for awhile. On another note: Have you tried using Clear UV resin? I'm actually getting better at using two thin layers of UV resin and its been working pretty good as long as you pay attention to overlap or globs etc. Cheers and thanks for the video!
I have tried it, and it works pretty well. For me the sanding works easier on Bondo, and the control (like brushing it out of fine details so I don’t loose them) is better with this.
preach!
have you ever tried Tamiya or My Hobby primer - for like model planes or cars. the Mr Hobby - Mr Finishing Surfacer, the 1500 awesome, the 500 and 1000 is good go rough surfaces - but it is AMAZING. very fast dryin, and no sanding. and self leveling. plus they come in White, Gray and black. you should try it.
I have not tried it, thanks for the tip!
wow what a great video more inforamation then the other 60 videos i watch, thank you, i just printed a Mando helmet i was going sand out all the print lines out but now im going use filler, how much infill did you use for this helmet?
I didn’t print it, it was printed by Villainous Prop Shop.
@@OddViking oh I am so sorry, you did a great job prepping the helmet
Amazing video that provides alot of details.
I would only comment on the sound which was not good. I can barely hear at some parts and need to constantly reduce the volume on the sanding parts.
thanks. for the audio, I am just using the phone’s mic, and editing this in iMovie, so my audio options are limited.
Thank you for this video - I was part of the "sand to 80% then lower your standards" method until now. I'm working on higher detailed props (a Pip Boy from Fallout 4). Do I have to modify anything (aside from brush size) for this?
A smaller brush works! I didn't mention it on the video, but use a disposable brush for this.
How long did you get the filler primer set before going to wet sanding? Also glad to see you back Collin cant wait for more vids.
Overnight, as it really should cure well before wet sanding.
I 3D print a lot of tanks. Luckily a lot of tank parts are rough cast so the glazing putty doesn't have to be completely smooth. In fact, I need it to have a rougher texture on things like turrets and cast transmission covers. I've always just used the 3M red putty right out of the tube, but I like the idea of being able to thin it with acetone. Gonna give it a try. What do you use to fill seams that have some flex to them (like where you are gluing two halves of a part together)? Typically glazing putty is chalky and will not do well on them especially if they flex at all.
for those gaps I tend to use epoxy plastic weld putty.
This is a great tutorial!
I'm using PLA+ filament, do you know if acetone will affect it?
pretty sure it will, but you can try to dip a piece of filament and test yourself.
@@startide You are certainly right. I'll give it a try anyway.
Thanks!
I don't think it will, but absolutely worth a test. As far as I know the main thing acetone dissolves is ABS plastic.
Thank you for posting this video! Great content. Quick question though, in certain scenes it sounds like you’re wearing a respirator… are you?
thanks for video! what filament do you use? pla?
these are all PLA prints I bought.
Great video! What filament do you use, pla?
yes, PLA
Can I ask what size nozzle you used for this. Print lines seem huge but love the process.
I didn't print these, but in my experience they were fairly fine prints compared to some. They are printed by Villainous Props and Clever3DStudio
Have you checked out the 3m Acryl glazing putty? I like it a lot more than the bondo. it also smells way less. Goes on much smoother when doing traditional applications. I have not tried with the acetone method.
I haven’t, but I did just get a tube to try out!
Can I use the type of bondo together with acetone where I have to add the hardener to make it more liquid?
I don't know, but I assume it would be similar. I just have never tried. Most prop makers use this same stuff, so I haven't seen any other types of Bondo tried.
Why acetone? Is it just the fact that it dries quickly and can dilute Bondo? Could isopropyl alcohol be used?
someone said they used it, but it may be that acetone is a better solvent for Bondo. I am not sure though. both dry very fast.
@@OddViking Hey, thanks for the quick reply! I was thinking of using isopropyl alcohol instead since I have a ton of that left over from when our family stocked up during Covid-19. But if acetone works better, I'll use acetone.
@1Spacecore I don't think it would thin the putty, just from personal experience. I wipe my stuff down w IPA after sanding, and have never seen any reaction. (Didn't try to thin it while wet, but as far as I know they are way different chemically. Might be worth an experiment.)
What would you recommend for smaller printed items like knobs or buttons?
Should I try the same method?
It should work the same on small parts, and will preserve more detail as long as you brush it out of any channels. A smaller disposable brush would work better there.
Colin, can you use a detail electric sander to sand down the bondo?
you could, but it would get a lot more dust in the air. it sands so easily, that hand sanding is easy and easier to control.
@@OddViking I thought so! Thanks for such an educational video! I hope you upload the entire process of this armor!
Can you mix bondo with something else than acetone? Maybe IPA or Ethanol? I mean, it will evaporate, but will it help thin the bondo?
I've got most my stuff printed in abs and don't really want to coat it in acetone mix 😅
oh right, ABS prints would not work. I saw someone say they used alcohol, but I haven’t tried it, maybe do a test?
Did you sand the full strength bondo before applying the thinned bondo?
No, just added the thinned on top, and sanded it all together after it was all filled.
Question about washing the parts after initial sand:
Have you had any issues with the paint because of moisture? I know regular bondo will absorb moisture, but dont know about the spot putty. Ive just been wiping my parts down with alcohol on a paper towel to be safe, but washing would be a lot simpler.
Edit: are the tape stripes under the thigh plates to keep raw pla for velcro adhesion? (Im 40 min in, maybe you havent mentioned it yet.)
I have not noticed it absorbing too much moisture. It is such a thin coat, and it changes from red to pink when dry so it is obvious if there is moisture there. But I live in California, and we have low humidity here. Alcohol is something I have used when sanding and needing to glue sooner. The tape stripes are to protect the raw plastic for later glueing, yes.
@OddViking right on. Good to know, I'm working on a jetpack now, will definitely give it a try👍
Will the putty/acetone mix work on pla?
these are PLA prints.
Perfect. Thank you!
could you use wood filler instead of bondo?
I have heard that some use wood filler in this same way, but I have not yet tried it.
This is really odd synchronicity. I was just about to bondo and smooth a BARC helmet this week.
Excellent!
Is there an equivalent to bondo for us over in europe ? Can't find anything like it on amazon... most putty are 2 parts it seems. Ideas ?
I know some people also love this stuff by 3M: www.amazon.com/dp/B004BZOTQQ and I found some forums where people thin it with acetone. Here is a listing in Europe: lakgruppen.com/acrylic-green-spot-putty/p/73828 . One other option I have seen people use is wood filler/putty thinned with acetone, with the same effect. So that is certainly something in your local hardware store.
(I just got a tube of this 3M putty after the video, but have yet to try it)
@@OddViking thanks a bunch for the hints ! Very helpful !
Such a boring video, I gladly watched every minute of it.
I had the intention of making a shorter video early on, but I guess I just talk through it as I go, and end up with a long video again to keep it all in.
Do you sand off all the bondo
not all, it fills in the lines and only the upper layer gets sanded
I just tried this method and it was a disaster.... Mostly because i was using the wrong Bondo 😂
It dried on me almost immediately, turning my helmet into an absolute mess!
I now have the correct bondo and ready to give it another shot! 😅
Oh no! in the video I show the stuff to use, Bondo “Glazing and Spot Putty”
@@OddViking Yeah I know! I just stupidly assumed all Bondo was similar (Newbie here lol)
It's my first helmet so it's just a practice helmet haha
Just wizard
What would be a good alternative to bondo. Since getting it in Europe is complicated...
There is a 3M product called “3M Acryl Putty, 05096, Green, 14.5 oz” that works the same, and some people use wood putty with acetone the same way, but I haven’t tried it.
@@OddViking same brand, same issue. But thanks.
When I search for it, I am able to find it in Europe. www.carcolourservices.co.uk/product/3m-green-acryl-putty-05096/
@@OddViking FOr UK. Its fine.
@@KurayamiWinter I guess, tell me what country you are in? I am not sure, you just said Europe. In any case, try wood filler, people use it the same way.
What printer do you have or do you get it done by someone else?
These were printed by makers on Etsy (listed in the description). I only have a medium sized resin printer for smaller props and details.
Good tips!, but i would highly recommend you calibrate your printer, it will save you alot of post processing those parts, sorry to say but that was some shocking prints with alot of artifacts, would highly recommend even changing to a good brand like Bambu printers, specially the P range, its transformed my prints to where i can go straight to keying then fillers
How do you stop helmets and armor from getting ruined by car heat? Transport to cons and stuff? how do you insulate it I guess? Pla has become more of a turn off for me but it's cheap and fast
It is a risk with these props. If you have your armor in the car, take the armor case in with you for lunch. I hear PLA Plus has a 10 degree Celsius higher rating, which is significant.
just print it in a basic color of petg and most of that problem is solved :) pla+ can handle a bit more heat but if it lays in a car for a while with summer temps it also will soften up a lot :)
Not sure if it can handle temps better with all the layers of paint on it but i would go use a bit more temp resistant filament :) petg is around the same price as pla+ in most places
Good Video. Subscribed. I'm part Viking Part Leprechaun.
could you show hot to attach these to a person? how to attach padding, straps and such?
I am not able to make that video, but generally the plates are done with velcro.
Do you need to wear a respirator while doing this process? I don't hear any fans in your video
Definitely wear a respirator when sanding Bondo and filler primer, also spraying filler primer as well. You don't need a fancy one with fans and ventilation system, a chemical one with filters on it will do
Most stuff you sand will send particles flying in the air. Wear a respirator !
You can, and when I used to dry sand the filler primer I wore a dust mask, because my nose would be full of grey dust after. But I haven't seen the same with Bondo, but I probably should still have worn a mask. Good point.
FI!
I just lost my father to lung cancer last year. Please wear masks when you sand and paint. Great Content. I was using wood filler and I think Im going to take a crack at your bondo method for sure
+8db
Well a 3D printed "prop" is only 50% finished no matter if you spend the time to paint it or not. The whole reason for 3D printing was to expedite the whole sculpting by hand process. You CGI your prop and get all the dimensions and tolerances exactly how you want them and have them mirrored on both sides and use that as your "sculpt" to make your mold to make your actual casted prop that will last and be able to take some bumps and bangs without breaking or getting distorted from the heat of your car like so many people do after a weekend of comic con or other events.
Oh and if you want to keep those nice sharp edges DON'T use your finger to support the sand paper. Get a small sanding black and sand properly with that or you will round those nice sharp edges and corners. Also use a soft sanding block for the curved parts of your build. This is usually a soft foam backed with a ridged plastic backing so it forms to the shape you are sanding so you don't create digits and valleys from the uneven pressure your figures make. Trust me once you put paint on it you will start seeing them. I did auto body in high school and worked in an auto body shop for a few year after high school and that's the way both my teacher showed us and how they did it in the shop and all other shops did it this way as well.
Also if you are going to do a few different costumes get the buckets and not the tubes. You spend way less on the buckets and the learning curve isn't that bad. To do the whole helmet you would only need about a gulf ball size amount of the putty and a pea sized amount of the accelerator. Remember the thinner the bondo the better. It is meant as a filler not a surface compound. Basically you should be using it to fill in all those little gaps inand not covering the whole helmet in the stuff. Bondo is a heavy product and this is why you should only use it as a finisher and not a cover it is also why I say 3D printed stuff is only a half way product. Because there is so much more you should be doing to get a product that will last.
I guess you disagree with this process, and the results. I guess this video wasn’t made for you.
3D printing is ideal for one-off helmets. I would never make a mold for one helmet. Even though you may cast your own helmets, I think you can agree that you have seen a lot of people use 3D prints for props, and this process works well for those prints.