somebody who actually knows how an engine works both cams inwards .....thanks the best info on TH-cam for putting one of these back together .....germans foiled again ....good man
Excellent succinct video. Water pump tip is brilliant. I changed mine because of extreme rattle on startup even when just stopped and restarted. I think my problem was the hydraulic tensioner. It was loosing oil when the engine stopped and chain becoming slack. Thicker oil would have helped but probably wouldn’t have been good elsewhere. Kit cost €135. Chain wasn’t stretched much. Slots on the back of camshafts are slightly off centre so the lobes facing in is kind of obvious. I didn’t have timing kit so tried to put back on the chain exactly as the old came off as I’ve done before but this didn’t work this time. Pistons were hitting valves on hand turning. So I removed plug 1 and set engine to tdc with a rod inserted and resting on piston and a bar across through the 2 slots on the back of the camshafts. Completely crude but no choice. Put on chain then and check timing a few times. Right or wrong, it worked. Other tips. I got away without removing sump. Kit suppliers recommended removal but I took that chance too. Secondly, 11mm bolt beneath water pump is a drain plug for coolant in engine. Handy for catching as much coolant as you can. Alternator and air con compressor must be removed to get timing cover off. I used a picture of a timing cover for sale on eBay as a reference for what I was not able to see clearly in my engine bay. Hope this helps as much as the video above.
Cylinder 1 will be at TDC and therefore on compression. You can’t really get it wrong as the locking tool will not slot into the cams if you aren’t on the correct stroke at TDC for no1
Did you have to do anything with oil pump, a few people have mentioned removing that torx bolt next to where the crank shaft locking tool goes before removing the oil pump?
If you are planning on removing / replacing the oil pump it sits inside the timing case cover, so you’ll already have the cover removed from the engine block.
I was thinking about when you remove the timing cover to replace chain, can you just remove the e torxs bolts, and pull it away from engine block, or is there a special procedure to remove oil pump and timing chain cover As a hole. Someone mentioned removing the torx bolt that goes into the timing chain cover to de-tension the oil pump? Thanks Tom
@@thomaswhatling6709 oh ok I see. In order to remove the timing chain cover it’s quite a procedure. In brief the engine mount has to be removed on driver side, rocker cover and sump must be removed, you can de-tension the chain before you remove the timing case cover but it’s not really required as you will be removing the chain anyway as the case gasket sits behind it.
Hi how safe are these engines ...friends corsa d ...has correlation code and mega chain rattle...what is needed to lock engine just cam setting bar and crank pin thanks
Yes as you say, lock bar and pin. The tool kits are cheap enough to buy online. The engines are pretty good as long as they’re maintained, I think the biggest problem is the lack of temp gauge. It’s good to check once in a while that the radiator fan is working to avoid overheating, they’re designed to run hot and will lose coolant due to expansion if the fan fails.
somebody who actually knows how an engine works both cams inwards .....thanks the best info on TH-cam for putting one of these back together .....germans foiled again ....good man
Excellent succinct video. Water pump tip is brilliant. I changed mine because of extreme rattle on startup even when just stopped and restarted. I think my problem was the hydraulic tensioner. It was loosing oil when the engine stopped and chain becoming slack. Thicker oil would have helped but probably wouldn’t have been good elsewhere. Kit cost €135. Chain wasn’t stretched much. Slots on the back of camshafts are slightly off centre so the lobes facing in is kind of obvious. I didn’t have timing kit so tried to put back on the chain exactly as the old came off as I’ve done before but this didn’t work this time. Pistons were hitting valves on hand turning. So I removed plug 1 and set engine to tdc with a rod inserted and resting on piston and a bar across through the 2 slots on the back of the camshafts. Completely crude but no choice. Put on chain then and check timing a few times. Right or wrong, it worked. Other tips. I got away without removing sump. Kit suppliers recommended removal but I took that chance too. Secondly, 11mm bolt beneath water pump is a drain plug for coolant in engine. Handy for catching as much coolant as you can. Alternator and air con compressor must be removed to get timing cover off. I used a picture of a timing cover for sale on eBay as a reference for what I was not able to see clearly in my engine bay. Hope this helps as much as the video above.
Glad to be of use. Thanks for the comment.
Brilliant video mines just btoke
Beautiful job thanks I done as 👍😋
when the crank and cam locking tools are in place is it TDC at compression stroke or exhaust stroke ??
Cylinder 1 will be at TDC and therefore on compression. You can’t really get it wrong as the locking tool will not slot into the cams if you aren’t on the correct stroke at TDC for no1
Did you have to do anything with oil pump, a few people have mentioned removing that torx bolt next to where the crank shaft locking tool goes before removing the oil pump?
If you are planning on removing / replacing the oil pump it sits inside the timing case cover, so you’ll already have the cover removed from the engine block.
I was thinking about when you remove the timing cover to replace chain, can you just remove the e torxs bolts, and pull it away from engine block, or is there a special procedure to remove oil pump and timing chain cover As a hole.
Someone mentioned removing the torx bolt that goes into the timing chain cover to de-tension the oil pump?
Thanks Tom
@@thomaswhatling6709 oh ok I see. In order to remove the timing chain cover it’s quite a procedure. In brief the engine mount has to be removed on driver side, rocker cover and sump must be removed, you can de-tension the chain before you remove the timing case cover but it’s not really required as you will be removing the chain anyway as the case gasket sits behind it.
Hi how safe are these engines ...friends corsa d ...has correlation code and mega chain rattle...what is needed to lock engine just cam setting bar and crank pin thanks
Yes as you say, lock bar and pin. The tool kits are cheap enough to buy online. The engines are pretty good as long as they’re maintained, I think the biggest problem is the lack of temp gauge. It’s good to check once in a while that the radiator fan is working to avoid overheating, they’re designed to run hot and will lose coolant due to expansion if the fan fails.
@@noflannelcarrepairs8312 thanks...I've done the corsa c chain but was unsure take it these engines have variable cams
@@davidwaters5348 it depends on the year of the car and the engine code. Pre 2010 they don’t have VVT
@@noflannelcarrepairs8312 this is a 2014...so guessing if u leave the vvti pulleys allown ..it will time ok with the setting bar and pin