Thank you for your video. A lot of information to look at. I have a 2011 Jeep Liberty which is a 3rd/spare car which is not driven much. I replaced the battery 4 months ago with a new one from Auto Zone. When I was going to get it smogged this week, my scan tool was showing everything was good except for the O2 sensor monitors. I looked at a ton of videos and a lot of people stated it took forever to make ready this monitor. Just have to drive it a lot of miles to make ready the monitor they said. I did numerous drive cycles and drove quite a few miles and still it shows O2 sensor not ready. After watching you video, I checked my battery voltage with a meter and it was showing 12.5 volts. I took my "jump start" portable battery, hooked it up to my car battery terminals then disconnected the terminals from the car battery so I would not lose any of the memory, then hooked up my digital battery charger and it showed my battery being at 85%. I charged it up for about an hour until it showed 100%. Disconnected the battery charger, put the terminals back on the battery, disconnected the "jump start" battery, and the new voltage at the battery showed 12.8. Just got back from a 45 minute drive on the freeway and a little stop and go traffic driving, got home and the O2 monitors are now ready! I have to think that charging up the battery did the trick. Thank you again. I hope this helps someone out there that is having issues with the O2 sensors. It is worth a try. God Bless.
@@knotyourguru Tried that numerous times and numerous days and it would not reset. Did as RANDOM FIX suggested and it reset right after the first time after the battery was charged. Just trying to help others try something that might work for them as it did for me. SO sorry to disappoint you as I noticed your "NOT the 1-hour charge on a 4-month-old battery" comment you made. Some people find it hard to realize none of us know everything. Helping others and being positive is what it is what it is all about. Have a great and Blessed day.
My CAT, O2 monitors wouldn't set on a 2008 Honda Civic. I saw your video and replaced my battery. It was old and was giving me issues. I never realized it could impact the monitors. After replacing it, all monitors set quickly! Thank you for the video and advice!!!
Hey there! Thank you for this video! I did the drive cycles and the cat and the o2 came on, but the “HTR” still hasn’t come online. I know here you’ve said that if the other two came on then there’s nothing wrong with the o2 heater, but is there anything I can do to speed that up? Thanks!!
I would check to confirm that is there is not an inherit issue with your jeep as they are know for lots of issues like this. th-cam.com/video/PMcJtcSOzdk/w-d-xo.htmlsi=3fnhC88Fq8xG03g3 I’m the video I cover how to look up this list of vehicles. Out of curiosity is the original o2 sensor in your jeep? The pre cat, o2 sensor have you ever replaced it? I would also check the connections, just unplug and reconnect it ( with the engine off) Keep me posted.
I have a 2015 dodge ram promaster 2500 diesel. All other sensors set except the o2 sensor, ive driven and replaced some parts, i dont know what to do or set it.
I haven’t run into just the o2 sensor not setting on diesels but on gasoline vehicles this normally caused a weak battery. Just because the battery starts the vehicle doesn’t mean it’s good. If the battery is over 2 years old or has ever needed a jump start I would test. I good battery will rest a 12.7 or 12.6 volts with the engine off after a 5 minute load from the headlights. You want to make sure there is not a ghost charge. Keep me posted and good luck 🍀
had issue with my tahoe about 2 years back and couldnt set the evap or 02, turns out the 02 sensor had corrosion on the terminal, once i changed it out and cleaned the corrosion off the monitor set within 5mins of driving! Im back in the same situation with a 2015 silverado and i ordered new 02 sensors, im hoping it as well is a 02 sensor since no codes come up and only the monitors will not set! So annoying!!
Hi - I am having issues with my oxygen sensor monitor and oxygen sensor heater monitor not being ready ....i have tried everything ; multiple driving cycles, replaced all 4 sensors with new Bosch ones, replaced the battery to brand new one ....also checked the fuse box ...I am not sure what else to do to get the car emission ready ...it's 2006 BMW E90 (330). Any direction or advice you can provide would be much appreciated. looking fwd to your response!
Here is the bmw drive cycle th-cam.com/video/mk6Tk330Acw/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Qp4MbVZ-aI-IQhhE try and please ask any questions on that video. Both of these monitor are connect to upstart o2 sensor not the down stream o2 sensor. Good luck and keep me posted.
This video helped me a lot thanks, but I have a question how do you check if your downstream sensor is working? Because I checked my sensor to be sure my car is ready for emission and the upstream sensor are ready but the downstream is not it says not completed. Which is weird because the catalytic is ready
O2 sensor monitors are just one monitor and it doesn’t let you know if it’s downstream or upstream. The o2 heater is monitor, and that component is on the upstream. So you have assume both oxygen sensors as one monitor. Hope that helps. Thank you for the feedback
I seen in the video it talks about the fuel level I have a 2016 chevy silverado it's inspection time no mil light I started it up this morning and it was almost on E stopped at the gas station and filled it up went to get it inspected it failed O2 and Cat not ready been driving it around makes me wonder if it didn't make ready because the fuel level
Thanks for the video: I have 2004 Pontiac Grand AM (GM) piece of garbage and drove my car about 500 miles and almost changed everything in that car, O2 Sensors, sparkplugs and 6-cables, air filter, CPV valve and you name it, but still it says O2 Sensor Htr not ready. So Lastly I will check try your "battery low voltage" below 12.0V today. By the way I have Transmission issue also, it "Kicks" due to the bad pressure solenoid inside the Transmission, -- do U think this would be an issue?
What worked for me was a disconnected vacuum line going to one of the valves to open up the butterfly in the intake manifold must've been like that for a while because the car was a little sluggish but wasn't that bad because I don't drive crazy but now the car has major pick up after I replaced that hose It was cracked in many places could be loose too but it wasn't letting my O2 sensor monitors to be ready five minutes after replace the hose I drove for five minutes and it was ready right away so I had to be there vacuum line so I can make sure all your lines are OK it's a quick and easy thing to look at feel around if you can't see... You might catch something simple I'll go for my emission test tomorrow because I already tried to go but it wasn't ready at all at least they didn't penalize they said come back in a couple days try to get your sister ready so I got a scan tool and I'm ready now
sorry I use talk to text and it doesn't always write things out correctly IU whatever You get the idea just check your vacuum lines, Was that for me could be other things of course but do the obvious and simple first
Thanks, it seems that may be the issue with my friend’s 2013 BMW M3. I see a “battery excessive discharge “ warning in the vehicle info system. Can’t get the O2 ready after 232 miles and 23 cold starts.
Hi Tom, Bmwwwwww and smog, oh boy, okay just be ready for a little work, first fix the discharge issue, I recommend disconnecting the battery for a few house to 48 hours. You may need to load the the battery and check the charging system. I would test all of this before disconnecting because if the battery and charging system are good then you don’t have to start from scratch on the drive as I think you are stating all the other monitors are ready other than o2 sensor. But please under a bad or even semi weak battery is going to cause all sorts of issues so if they battery and charging system are good then you want to start from scratch, disconnect the battery which helps reset all module and can fix some communications issue. Here is the drive cycle for your Bmw th-cam.com/video/mk6Tk330Acw/w-d-xo.html Good luck and let me know what you find.
@@RANDOMFIX thanks for your help. I saw your BMW video just now but I had followed those steps this morning and got the CAT to ready now for him but yes now the O2 sensor monitor is the only one outstanding. Seeing yours and other TH-camr video made me think of the battery warning I saw and seemingly the issue. I will post my results to help others. Thanks again.
I have problem My Chevy Silverado 2005 issues with 02heater monitor incomplete and EVAP but rest monitors is ok and send me error code po420 in same time when i pass readiness on live data catalytic converter ok but code po420 is still there what to do (check engine light on and only code po420 with catalytic converter readiness "ok" i have no idea what to do truck running great 😡
I have a 2017 nissan pathfinder went for emission test said evap system and O2 sensor not ready. Drove the suggested drive cycle and it is still not ready. Car is running fine no codes or lights. Help
In most states the evap is exempt other than Oregon as far as I know. So you really need to make sure that o2 sensor gets ready. Here is the nissan drive cycle th-cam.com/video/s9PLkO-CjZ8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Muj2or4orFRzCNdV that has some useful tips. Remember you battery being almost perfect is super important to set the o2 monitor. Keep me posted and good luck 🍀
I got a 99 chevy silverado had tons of codes , had them fixed and few of those was o2 sensors I had them all four replaced brand new, light went away for a while and had it smogged and failed the ‘Malfunction Indicator Light’ (MIL) section and I ended up getting a check engine light , had it diagnosed and its a P0160 code not sure what to do now
You now have an issue with map sensor. I would clean and inspect it. It’s the original map sensor you might want to replace it. Replace it only with an oem map sensor. Check the air filter and the housing (tubbing) of the map sensor for leaks or cracks.
@@RANDOMFIXThanks for your reply 🙌🏼 I’ll have to look into it , its just weird it keeps tossing me codes on stuff I already fixed I’m really hoping its just the map sensor, i doubt previous owner changed the map sensor so its probably the original
@user-rh5dv3mr9x yeah, cars will keeping popping codes. Air leaks in the intake and exhaust are notorious for causing codes and people keep changing out o2 sensors.
@@RANDOMFIX Replaced my map sensor just of yesterday doesn’t seem to be the solution I still keep getting the same code, would it be something electrical ?
Thank you I needed this. Ive replaced my o2 sensors since my monitors cant complete. I've drive 350 miles doing drive cycles at midnight and still nothing.
Down stream is used to check the health of the catalyst and up stream is normally for o2 system and the upstream sensor is where the o2 heater element is also placed. It’s part of the same o2 sensor. What are you struggling with? Make model and year?
@@RANDOMFIX I finally got my stubborn o2 monitors to set. 2015 dodge challenger hellcat. Freeway holding 65mph steady, decelerate to 55mph and aggressively accelerating back to 65mph. Repeating this cycle consecutively 5 times finally got my car ready after 2 weeks of drive cycles.
I'm having problems with my Honda civic 2015 replaced O2 sensor on top can't get my check engine light off. I have drove over 1000 miles and done numerous drive cycles help please
What worked for me is the following. At midnight when the freeway is empty I drove 8 minutes steady at 55 mph, right before exiting the freeway I accelerated to 65 mph and let the foot off gas, letting the car coast to 0 mph that was for the EVAP. I then drove around 10 minutes at 35-37 mph steady, after got on the freeway and did my o2 drive cycle which was going 65mph and letting the foot of the gas to 55mph and accelerating back up to 65mph, repeating that 5 times consecutively got my o2 sensors to set, I suppose doing something similar may help. Lastly I drove around neighborhood streets around 20-30 mph and staying idle for 1 minute at the stop signs, around 5 times. Once I got back home, I plugged in my OBD2 scanner and everything was ready and set.
On my Mitsubishi I had the O2 sensor reading "Not Ready" status, hadn't clue what it meant (new to these OBD2 testers), so instinctively unscrewed the sensor to check its condition. looked ok to me so reinstalled it, checked my OBD2 and noticed the O2 sensor was now at "Ready" status. Maybe the sensor thread was not making a good earth, but shouldn't have made any difference since signal earth is via a wire (4 wire sensor). Worth trying if you guys have a similar problem.
@@RANDOMFIX Yes I did, it could have been the connector, however, I had previously unclipped the sensor (not removing the Sensor) and the Sensor state was at "Not Ready" when re-clipped. Certainly made a difference at Idle, what I thought was normal Idle was fairly rough compared to the "O2 Ready" state Idle.
I wonder if you'd be the one to do a video on what the computer is actually doing during the drive cycle. It's a dark, unseen mysterious activity that thing is doing... Maybe present it as a real time, graphic diagram situation, say with a series of labeled boxes indicating the hardware connected with lines showing connections to the computer... with readouts at the top showing what the engine is doing... Something like that... But, it's a mystery... Thanks... Very appreciated... "Liked" "Subscribed"...
I just recorded a video in California about this but it will help so hear what you want to do. Assuming your battery is perfect and the o2 sensor is original brand from Toyota. Start your Tundra with the air conditioner on plus rear defrost plus headlight and just let warm up for 5 to 20 minutes. The colder the temperature the longer you may want to warm up. The drive around 35 to 45 mph around down. Put a big electrical load on the vehicle during warm up. Your tundra is 10 years old now. Has the o2 sensor been replaced? I would check the connections as well, you need to check both pre car o2 sensors. I show it in this video for the Toyota drive cycle th-cam.com/video/EKfEr2LP2Nw/w-d-xo.htmlsi=UDLXHilMBBIMKenK Make sure you have a obd2 reader than can rescan like to one th-cam.com/video/SguhiTfgpFQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=yknTt7aZ3D95Gsg_ And keep me posted.
Hi RANDOMFIX: I just measured my Battery, and it was 12.2v with my car-key in "ON" position (not engine start). -- and in OFF position it was 12.4v is this bad?
12.4 is not bad as long as it not a surface charge. 12.4 is Not bad but you need test after 5 to 10 minutes with ignition on or headlight on. A fully charged battery will be at 12.6 You really need a loader tester like shown in this video th-cam.com/video/Zpe_oOUZsUs/w-d-xo.html They are around $20
My evap code is hard set p0446 and engine light is on oxygen sensor monitor and catalyst monitor has not passed yet should i continue to drive until they pass or fix the evap and clear the code I’m hoping I don’t have to. Everything is set except the evap the oxygen sensor monitor and the catalyst monitor would hate to have to drive another 400 miles lol because it says it could take up to five drive cycles. And Eve app is not mandatory in California I guess
Yes, you need to fix the issue causing the p446 and then complete the drive cycle to set the monitors. No point in driving if you have a pending or hard set code.
(Question) When my car is in the "On" position it displays 11.8V, and when I turn the motor on, it displays 14.0V. Does that mean I need to charge or change my battery?
This is normal, when the engine is running the alternator is supplying the charging system additional voltage. I would check the voltage after ten minutes of the heads light being on and the motor off. Check the resting voltage not the ghost charge. I show a tool that helpful with this under $30 in this video th-cam.com/video/cV6NewPWo2E/w-d-xo.htmlsi=37CyRM9-0U_Tl4Bm
Let me know how it goes I’ve had other viewers with similar issues that had a different drive cycle that I have access to. Have your tried disconnecting the battery for an hour? I know you will lose all the monitor history but it’s better than losing your mind, lots of glitches with gm vehicles 🚗. Keep me in the loop and good luck.
ive got a 2003 chevy avalanche ive replaced all 02 sensors with factory ac delcos drained the battary and did the drive cycle 02 senors still didnt set??? other moniters set 02 heaters,Cat,evap.
Have been trying to get my 2002 Kia Spectra out of the Not Ready “R” category in California for months. Did the drive cycle on the freeway twice at 55 miles per hour for over 30 minutes and took it back to smog center and it still says Not Ready. Don’t know what else to do. Since it’s not a Fail, can’t get help with repairs. How many times do I need to do it?
Hi Diane, here is the Kia drive cycle th-cam.com/video/OtSDdIgQ6_g/w-d-xo.html After you complete two drive cycle focus only on the unset monitors and keep me posted.
I have a 97 crv o2 monitor wont complete. New 02 sensor and new battery. Have reset many times and rerun the drive cycle. Its been 3 months and hundreds of starts and miles put on it but 02 sensor still wont complete. I have a pro Autel scanner but the crv is to old to run monitor tests
I don’t see any reason why the monitors are not completing. I will try to start the vehicle when it’s cold have the AC and rear defrost on and any other electrical loads all on and let the vehicle warm up and afterwards take it for a drive around town 5 to 10 minutes. I don’t know what else you need to do as this very strange unless you didn’t use the oem o2 sensors. Keep me posted
I got a question, everything but oxygen sensor is turning green but my bottom shows a green check as yours is yellow. I've driven over 150 miles with no pending or check engine light, the smog check guy said that they all got to turn green, ain't I allotted one red x? 2006 Nissan armada.
You need to set the o2 monitor. Try warming ip your nissan with ac and rear defrost running during the warm and drive around town 35 to 45 mph in city driving. Here is the nissan drive cycle th-cam.com/video/s9PLkO-CjZ8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=ohpgnL_cgQDWut4I
@@RANDOMFIX yeah even my check engine light is solid key on engine off and when I start it goes away. I was reading if it's blinking that means it's still not complete. I'll check it out thank you.
@tommyhajimoto6968 only honda and chrysler have this feature to let you know your drive cycle is incomplete. I highly suggest have a obd2 reader. This good one under 30 th-cam.com/video/SguhiTfgpFQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=31LIw9tPkKX_GqJg
@@RANDOMFIX my OBD scanner doesn't support oxygen sensor reading for this specific vehicle. Could that cause it to have a red X in 02 I'm at 200 mi now, with no pending or check.
@@RANDOMFIX okay I watched that video my OBD2 was on one for the IM indicator, I set it to 0 and reset. It's a red check mark now I'm going to start driving
Does you state require an emissions test? Why would you want to cut the wire? Why not look for mil eliminator instead? It will trick the post the post cat o2 sensor to think it is working! You leave the pre cat o2 sensor as is. You will need to add the mil eliminator on the post cat o2 sensor. What are you driving by the way?
I have a 2008 Nissan Xterra. I have used a scan tool to identify any codes and also clear them. I have been plauged with a small evap leak for a number of years. Recently, I cleared the code and brought my vehicle in for the yearly inspection. Apparently, I did not allow sufficient drive time to reset the monitors. I do notice that I have 3 monitors that show N/A..egr, hcat and air. I presume that these are not on my vehicle thus the n/a. I do not have a SEL light on, but the usual pending evap code P0456...small evap leak. Am I good to go with all of the other monitors saying OK?
If all the monitors are complete except the n/a not applicable than you should be good however I have seen smog techs pre scan the vehicle with a basic obd2 reader and will tell you are not ready and to keep driving as they want to take a chance as the recorded pass with pending code will go with their record or they might be suspect of a bigger problem
Thanks for the quick response. I came across info about the N/A status on the internet, but I was surprised when the tech at the garage told me that I needed to drive a few more hundred miles to go thru the complete drive cycle. I was advised by the main mechanic to keep the gas tank stuffed with fuel during the drive cycle so not to kick on the SEL light and then the auto could be rescanned. I was concerned about the n/a status and I doubted if it would ever cycle to ok. Apparently the shop has a few customers who have the same problem and this is how they deal with it at inspection time here in NYS.@@RANDOMFIX
@lorettacaputo6997 don’t keep your fuel full keep it between 1/4 to 3/4. Here is the complete nissan drive cycle if you run into an additional issues. th-cam.com/video/s9PLkO-CjZ8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=vab4ATza6sEG2QDC
I changed the cluster!!!! Short circuit..I bought it on eBay already programmed and passed emissions the same day.. I had the code for the cluster circuit kp+ .. the code was erasing after the car shut off..sorry took forever to reply
I won’t replace a battery without load testing it. Here is an old video th-cam.com/video/Zpe_oOUZsUs/w-d-xo.htmlsi=GFdglt6Qhv0O2CfD And these are pretty cheap and great to have. If your battery is over 5 years old or close to it and is lead acid battery just replace as there is no need to load test.
@@RANDOMFIX i had one of those lcd load testers and had a recheck at AutoZone they indeed said it needed replaced. Thanks for your help i passed the emissions test today after replacing battery oxygen and cat monitors cleared within 10 minutes of driving.
So I’ve driven about 800+ miles Total overall. Recently after the last reset it’s been 100 miles and everything set at 65 miles except for the o2 sensor. I’ve gone to autozone to have them check my battery and they say it’s good. My battery was replaced about a year ago. Could the battery be causing it to not set or is it the o2 sensors? Also to clarify the o2 heater is rdy, it’s just the o2 monitor itself.
Things I’ve done. -Take battery off for over an hour. -clean Maf, Throttle Body, Intake filter. -Disconnected and cleaned connectors of o2 sensors. Made sure they were connected. - done a ton of different drive cycles. It’s driving me insane.
It code be the o2 sensor but what are you driving? I will send you a more specific video for your vehicle. Lastly incase you do change your o2 make sure you go with oem and avoid the cheap 20 duller units. If you have a live data scantool you can check the live data from the o2 sensor.
i have a 2013 mazda cx5 i don’t see anyone have a proper fix for just the o2 sensor not ready. I have no pending codes but 2 permanent codes for small leak every other monitor is set besides evap and i don’t need that. Can some one help my mazda o2 sensor get ready please. Yes the o2 heater is ready
I know batteries can be expensive so you don’t need to replace every battery, just load test it, check the charging system. Here is great 20 solutions th-cam.com/video/Zpe_oOUZsUs/w-d-xo.html and i would still disconnect the battery for 1 hour even if it shows good to reset any modules that might not communicating correctly. Keep me in the loop.
I see, The video or the process of getting the o2 sensor monitor to set? If it’s the process you have not seen anything yet as the it will only get harder!!!
Thank you for your video. A lot of information to look at. I have a 2011 Jeep Liberty which is a 3rd/spare car which is not driven much. I replaced the battery 4 months ago with a new one from Auto Zone. When I was going to get it smogged this week, my scan tool was showing everything was good except for the O2 sensor monitors. I looked at a ton of videos and a lot of people stated it took forever to make ready this monitor. Just have to drive it a lot of miles to make ready the monitor they said. I did numerous drive cycles and drove quite a few miles and still it shows O2 sensor not ready. After watching you video, I checked my battery voltage with a meter and it was showing 12.5 volts. I took my "jump start" portable battery, hooked it up to my car battery terminals then disconnected the terminals from the car battery so I would not lose any of the memory, then hooked up my digital battery charger and it showed my battery being at 85%. I charged it up for about an hour until it showed 100%. Disconnected the battery charger, put the terminals back on the battery, disconnected the "jump start" battery, and the new voltage at the battery showed 12.8. Just got back from a 45 minute drive on the freeway and a little stop and go traffic driving, got home and the O2 monitors are now ready! I have to think that charging up the battery did the trick. Thank you again. I hope this helps someone out there that is having issues with the O2 sensors. It is worth a try. God Bless.
Hi Ed, thank you for sharing your experience and these Jeep sare infamous for not setting the o2 monitor unless the battery is almost perfect.
@@knotyourguru
Tried that numerous times and numerous days and it would not reset. Did as RANDOM FIX suggested and it reset right after the first time after the battery was charged. Just trying to help others try something that might work for them as it did for me. SO sorry to disappoint you as I noticed your "NOT the 1-hour charge on a 4-month-old battery" comment you made. Some people find it hard to realize none of us know everything. Helping others and being positive is what it is what it is all about. Have a great and Blessed day.
My CAT, O2 monitors wouldn't set on a 2008 Honda Civic. I saw your video and replaced my battery. It was old and was giving me issues. I never realized it could impact the monitors. After replacing it, all monitors set quickly! Thank you for the video and advice!!!
I’m glad to help with your 2008 honda civic o2 and catalytic converters monitors. Thank you so much for taking the time to post this feedback
But once you changed the battery did you have to do drive cycles to reset the catalytic monitor?
I just drove around. Checked them a day or two later and I was good. Good luck
Thank you!
You're welcome!
Hey there! Thank you for this video! I did the drive cycles and the cat and the o2 came on, but the “HTR” still hasn’t come online. I know here you’ve said that if the other two came on then there’s nothing wrong with the o2 heater, but is there anything I can do to speed that up? Thanks!!
Oh and this is for an 06 wrangler unlimited
I would check to confirm that is there is not an inherit issue with your jeep as they are know for lots of issues like this. th-cam.com/video/PMcJtcSOzdk/w-d-xo.htmlsi=3fnhC88Fq8xG03g3
I’m the video I cover how to look up this list of vehicles.
Out of curiosity is the original o2 sensor in your jeep? The pre cat, o2 sensor have you ever replaced it?
I would also check the connections, just unplug and reconnect it ( with the engine off)
Keep me posted.
I have a 2015 dodge ram promaster 2500 diesel. All other sensors set except the o2 sensor, ive driven and replaced some parts, i dont know what to do or set it.
I haven’t run into just the o2 sensor not setting on diesels but on gasoline vehicles this normally caused a weak battery. Just because the battery starts the vehicle doesn’t mean it’s good. If the battery is over 2 years old or has ever needed a jump start I would test. I good battery will rest a 12.7 or 12.6 volts with the engine off after a 5 minute load from the headlights. You want to make sure there is not a ghost charge.
Keep me posted and good luck 🍀
had issue with my tahoe about 2 years back and couldnt set the evap or 02, turns out the 02 sensor had corrosion on the terminal, once i changed it out and cleaned the corrosion off the monitor set within 5mins of driving! Im back in the same situation with a 2015 silverado and i ordered new 02 sensors, im hoping it as well is a 02 sensor since no codes come up and only the monitors will not set! So annoying!!
I wish you luck and I hope you find an easy fix.
Did it work
Thank you
You're welcome
Hi - I am having issues with my oxygen sensor monitor and oxygen sensor heater monitor not being ready ....i have tried everything ; multiple driving cycles, replaced all 4 sensors with new Bosch ones, replaced the battery to brand new one ....also checked the fuse box ...I am not sure what else to do to get the car emission ready ...it's 2006 BMW E90 (330). Any direction or advice you can provide would be much appreciated. looking fwd to your response!
Here is the bmw drive cycle th-cam.com/video/mk6Tk330Acw/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Qp4MbVZ-aI-IQhhE try and please ask any questions on that video. Both of these monitor are connect to upstart o2 sensor not the down stream o2 sensor. Good luck and keep me posted.
2006 nissan murano no codes took to get smog only the 02 monitor is not resetting driven many miles both freeway and backroads any ideas?
This video helped me a lot thanks, but I have a question how do you check if your downstream sensor is working? Because I checked my sensor to be sure my car is ready for emission and the upstream sensor are ready but the downstream is not it says not completed. Which is weird because the catalytic is ready
O2 sensor monitors are just one monitor and it doesn’t let you know if it’s downstream or upstream. The o2 heater is monitor, and that component is on the upstream. So you have assume both oxygen sensors as one monitor. Hope that helps. Thank you for the feedback
I seen in the video it talks about the fuel level I have a 2016 chevy silverado it's inspection time no mil light I started it up this morning and it was almost on E stopped at the gas station and filled it up went to get it inspected it failed O2 and Cat not ready been driving it around makes me wonder if it didn't make ready because the fuel level
Thanks for the video: I have 2004 Pontiac Grand AM (GM) piece of garbage and drove my car about 500 miles and almost changed everything in that car, O2 Sensors, sparkplugs and 6-cables, air filter, CPV valve and you name it, but still it says O2 Sensor Htr not ready. So Lastly I will check try your "battery low voltage" below 12.0V today. By the way I have Transmission issue also, it "Kicks" due to the bad pressure solenoid inside the Transmission, -- do U think this would be an issue?
Is the transmission kick setting a code? Pending or stored.
What worked for me was a disconnected vacuum line going to one of the valves to open up the butterfly in the intake manifold must've been like that for a while because the car was a little sluggish but wasn't that bad because I don't drive crazy but now the car has major pick up after I replaced that hose It was cracked in many places could be loose too but it wasn't letting my O2 sensor monitors to be ready five minutes after replace the hose I drove for five minutes and it was ready right away so I had to be there vacuum line so I can make sure all your lines are OK it's a quick and easy thing to look at feel around if you can't see... You might catch something simple I'll go for my emission test tomorrow because I already tried to go but it wasn't ready at all at least they didn't penalize they said come back in a couple days try to get your sister ready so I got a scan tool and I'm ready now
sorry I use talk to text and it doesn't always write things out correctly IU whatever You get the idea just check your vacuum lines, Was that for me could be other things of course but do the obvious and simple first
Great information, yes a visual inspection is very important and can help find issues like the cracked vacuum lines.
Thanks, it seems that may be the issue with my friend’s 2013 BMW M3. I see a “battery excessive discharge “ warning in the vehicle info system. Can’t get the O2 ready after 232 miles and 23 cold starts.
Hi Tom,
Bmwwwwww and smog, oh boy, okay just be ready for a little work, first fix the discharge issue, I recommend disconnecting the battery for a few house to 48 hours. You may need to load the the battery and check the charging system. I would test all of this before disconnecting because if the battery and charging system are good then you don’t have to start from scratch on the drive as I think you are stating all the other monitors are ready other than o2 sensor.
But please under a bad or even semi weak battery is going to cause all sorts of issues so if they battery and charging system are good then you want to start from scratch, disconnect the battery which helps reset all module and can fix some communications issue. Here is the drive cycle for your Bmw th-cam.com/video/mk6Tk330Acw/w-d-xo.html
Good luck and let me know what you find.
@@RANDOMFIX thanks for your help. I saw your BMW video just now but I had followed those steps this morning and got the CAT to ready now for him but yes now the O2 sensor monitor is the only one outstanding. Seeing yours and other TH-camr video made me think of the battery warning I saw and seemingly the issue. I will post my results to help others. Thanks again.
I have problem My Chevy Silverado 2005 issues with 02heater monitor incomplete and EVAP but rest monitors is ok and send me error code po420 in same time when i pass readiness on live data catalytic converter ok but code po420 is still there what to do (check engine light on and only code po420 with catalytic converter readiness "ok" i have no idea what to do truck running great 😡
I have a 2017 nissan pathfinder went for emission test said evap system and O2 sensor not ready. Drove the suggested drive cycle and it is still not ready. Car is running fine no codes or lights. Help
In most states the evap is exempt other than Oregon as far as I know. So you really need to make sure that o2 sensor gets ready. Here is the nissan drive cycle th-cam.com/video/s9PLkO-CjZ8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Muj2or4orFRzCNdV that has some useful tips. Remember you battery being almost perfect is super important to set the o2 monitor.
Keep me posted and good luck 🍀
I got a 99 chevy silverado had tons of codes , had them fixed and few of those was o2 sensors I had them all four replaced brand new, light went away for a while and had it smogged and failed the ‘Malfunction Indicator Light’ (MIL) section and I ended up getting a check engine light , had it diagnosed and its a P0160 code not sure what to do now
You now have an issue with map sensor. I would clean and inspect it. It’s the original map sensor you might want to replace it. Replace it only with an oem map sensor. Check the air filter and the housing (tubbing) of the map sensor for leaks or cracks.
@@RANDOMFIXThanks for your reply 🙌🏼 I’ll have to look into it , its just weird it keeps tossing me codes on stuff I already fixed I’m really hoping its just the map sensor, i doubt previous owner changed the map sensor so its probably the original
@user-rh5dv3mr9x yeah, cars will keeping popping codes. Air leaks in the intake and exhaust are notorious for causing codes and people keep changing out o2 sensors.
@@RANDOMFIX Replaced my map sensor just of yesterday doesn’t seem to be the solution I still keep getting the same code, would it be something electrical ?
Thank you I needed this. Ive replaced my o2 sensors since my monitors cant complete. I've drive 350 miles doing drive cycles at midnight and still nothing.
Glad to help, please let me know what happens. If you need the complete drive cycle check the video links or let me know and I can send it to you.
Down stream is used to check the health of the catalyst and up stream is normally for o2 system and the upstream sensor is where the o2 heater element is also placed. It’s part of the same o2 sensor.
What are you struggling with? Make model and year?
@@RANDOMFIX I finally got my stubborn o2 monitors to set. 2015 dodge challenger hellcat. Freeway holding 65mph steady, decelerate to 55mph and aggressively accelerating back to 65mph. Repeating this cycle consecutively 5 times finally got my car ready after 2 weeks of drive cycles.
I'm having problems with my Honda civic 2015 replaced O2 sensor on top can't get my check engine light off. I have drove over 1000 miles and done numerous drive cycles help please
What worked for me is the following. At midnight when the freeway is empty I drove 8 minutes steady at 55 mph, right before exiting the freeway I accelerated to 65 mph and let the foot off gas, letting the car coast to 0 mph that was for the EVAP. I then drove around 10 minutes at 35-37 mph steady, after got on the freeway and did my o2 drive cycle which was going 65mph and letting the foot of the gas to 55mph and accelerating back up to 65mph, repeating that 5 times consecutively got my o2 sensors to set, I suppose doing something similar may help. Lastly I drove around neighborhood streets around 20-30 mph and staying idle for 1 minute at the stop signs, around 5 times. Once I got back home, I plugged in my OBD2 scanner and everything was ready and set.
On my Mitsubishi I had the O2 sensor reading "Not Ready" status, hadn't clue what it meant (new to these OBD2 testers), so instinctively unscrewed the sensor to check its condition. looked ok to me so reinstalled it, checked my OBD2 and noticed the O2 sensor was now at "Ready" status. Maybe the sensor thread was not making a good earth, but shouldn't have made any difference since signal earth is via a wire (4 wire sensor). Worth trying if you guys have a similar problem.
Did you unclip the connector beside removing it from the o2 sensor hole?
@@RANDOMFIX Yes I did, it could have been the connector, however, I had previously unclipped the sensor (not removing the Sensor) and the Sensor state was at "Not Ready" when re-clipped. Certainly made a difference at Idle, what I thought was normal Idle was fairly rough compared to the "O2 Ready" state Idle.
I wonder if you'd be the one to do a video on what the computer is actually doing during the drive cycle. It's a dark, unseen mysterious activity that thing is doing... Maybe present it as a real time, graphic diagram situation, say with a series of labeled boxes indicating the hardware connected with lines showing connections to the computer... with readouts at the top showing what the engine is doing... Something like that... But, it's a mystery...
Thanks... Very appreciated...
"Liked" "Subscribed"...
Sorry for the late reply, I appreciate your feedback
How can I get a copy of all your information
Hi Jesse, I try to add as much detail in each video, there is not copy you can get other than the TH-cam transcript.
Help 2014 Toyota tundra only need. Oxygen sensor not ready
Oxygen sensor Mon INC
I just recorded a video in California about this but it will help so hear what you want to do.
Assuming your battery is perfect and the o2 sensor is original brand from Toyota. Start your Tundra with the air conditioner on plus rear defrost plus headlight and just let warm up for 5 to 20 minutes. The colder the temperature the longer you may want to warm up. The drive around 35 to 45 mph around down. Put a big electrical load on the vehicle during warm up. Your tundra is 10 years old now. Has the o2 sensor been replaced? I would check the connections as well, you need to check both pre car o2 sensors. I show it in this video for the Toyota drive cycle th-cam.com/video/EKfEr2LP2Nw/w-d-xo.htmlsi=UDLXHilMBBIMKenK
Make sure you have a obd2 reader than can rescan like to one th-cam.com/video/SguhiTfgpFQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=yknTt7aZ3D95Gsg_
And keep me posted.
Hi RANDOMFIX:
I just measured my Battery, and it was 12.2v with my car-key in "ON" position (not engine start). -- and in OFF position it was 12.4v
is this bad?
12.4 is not bad as long as it not a surface charge. 12.4 is Not bad but you need test after 5 to 10 minutes with ignition on or headlight on. A fully charged battery will be at 12.6
You really need a loader tester like shown in this video th-cam.com/video/Zpe_oOUZsUs/w-d-xo.html
They are around $20
My evap code is hard set p0446 and engine light is on oxygen sensor monitor and catalyst monitor has not passed yet should i continue to drive until they pass or fix the evap and clear the code I’m hoping I don’t have to. Everything is set except the evap the oxygen sensor monitor and the catalyst monitor would hate to have to drive another 400 miles lol because it says it could take up to five drive cycles. And Eve app is not mandatory in California I guess
Yes, you need to fix the issue causing the p446 and then complete the drive cycle to set the monitors. No point in driving if you have a pending or hard set code.
ok thnks
(Question) When my car is in the "On" position it displays 11.8V, and when I turn the motor on, it displays 14.0V. Does that mean I need to charge or change my battery?
This is normal, when the engine is running the alternator is supplying the charging system additional voltage.
I would check the voltage after ten minutes of the heads light being on and the motor off. Check the resting voltage not the ghost charge.
I show a tool that helpful with this under $30 in this video th-cam.com/video/cV6NewPWo2E/w-d-xo.htmlsi=37CyRM9-0U_Tl4Bm
@@RANDOMFIX Copy, thanks!
Dealer did ECM update. Done
What were you driving? That was happening before the ECM was updated?
I'm having trouble getting my o2 sensors to set. I have a 2013 Silverado. I'm going to do the battery check today and see what it reads
Let me know how it goes I’ve had other viewers with similar issues that had a different drive cycle that I have access to. Have your tried disconnecting the battery for an hour? I know you will lose all the monitor history but it’s better than losing your mind, lots of glitches with gm vehicles 🚗.
Keep me in the loop and good luck.
@@RANDOMFIX Battery is reading 12.05V. No, i haven’t disconnected the battery yet. May try that Monday depending on what i get today.
ive got a 2003 chevy avalanche ive replaced all 02 sensors with factory ac delcos drained the battary and did the drive cycle 02 senors still didnt set??? other moniters set 02 heaters,Cat,evap.
Same here. Did you ever figure it out?
Have been trying to get my 2002 Kia Spectra out of the Not Ready “R” category in California for months. Did the drive cycle on the freeway twice at 55 miles per hour for over 30 minutes and took it back to smog center and it still says Not Ready. Don’t know what else to do. Since it’s not a Fail, can’t get help with repairs. How many times do I need to do it?
Hi Diane, here is the Kia drive cycle th-cam.com/video/OtSDdIgQ6_g/w-d-xo.html
After you complete two drive cycle focus only on the unset monitors and keep me posted.
can I cut the sender wire ?or join the two sender wire together to trick computer
On older cars
I have a 97 crv o2 monitor wont complete. New 02 sensor and new battery. Have reset many times and rerun the drive cycle. Its been 3 months and hundreds of starts and miles put on it but 02 sensor still wont complete. I have a pro Autel scanner but the crv is to old to run monitor tests
I don’t see any reason why the monitors are not completing. I will try to start the vehicle when it’s cold have the AC and rear defrost on and any other electrical loads all on and let the vehicle warm up and afterwards take it for a drive around town 5 to 10 minutes. I don’t know what else you need to do as this very strange unless you didn’t use the oem o2 sensors.
Keep me posted
@@RANDOMFIX OEM sensors from dealer. Ok I'll let you know
I got a question, everything but oxygen sensor is turning green but my bottom shows a green check as yours is yellow. I've driven over 150 miles with no pending or check engine light, the smog check guy said that they all got to turn green, ain't I allotted one red x? 2006 Nissan armada.
You need to set the o2 monitor. Try warming ip your nissan with ac and rear defrost running during the warm and drive around town 35 to 45 mph in city driving. Here is the nissan drive cycle th-cam.com/video/s9PLkO-CjZ8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=ohpgnL_cgQDWut4I
@@RANDOMFIX yeah even my check engine light is solid key on engine off and when I start it goes away. I was reading if it's blinking that means it's still not complete. I'll check it out thank you.
@tommyhajimoto6968 only honda and chrysler have this feature to let you know your drive cycle is incomplete. I highly suggest have a obd2 reader. This good one under 30 th-cam.com/video/SguhiTfgpFQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=31LIw9tPkKX_GqJg
@@RANDOMFIX my OBD scanner doesn't support oxygen sensor reading for this specific vehicle. Could that cause it to have a red X in 02 I'm at 200 mi now, with no pending or check.
@@RANDOMFIX okay I watched that video my OBD2 was on one for the IM indicator, I set it to 0 and reset. It's a red check mark now I'm going to start driving
can i cut sender wire to sensor ?I don't have cat i got straight pipes so I don't need 02 sensor
Does you state require an emissions test? Why would you want to cut the wire? Why not look for mil eliminator instead? It will trick the post the post cat o2 sensor to think it is working! You leave the pre cat o2 sensor as is. You will need to add the mil eliminator on the post cat o2 sensor. What are you driving by the way?
I have a 2008 Nissan Xterra. I have used a scan tool to identify any codes and also clear them. I have been plauged with a small evap leak for a number of years. Recently, I cleared the code and brought my vehicle in for the yearly inspection. Apparently, I did not allow sufficient drive time to reset the monitors. I do notice that I have 3 monitors that show N/A..egr, hcat and air. I presume that these are not on my vehicle thus the n/a. I do not have a SEL light on, but the usual pending evap code P0456...small evap leak. Am I good to go with all of the other monitors saying OK?
If all the monitors are complete except the n/a not applicable than you should be good however I have seen smog techs pre scan the vehicle with a basic obd2 reader and will tell you are not ready and to keep driving as they want to take a chance as the recorded pass with pending code will go with their record or they might be suspect of a bigger problem
Thanks for the quick response. I came across info about the N/A status on the internet, but I was surprised when the tech at the garage told me that I needed to drive a few more hundred miles to go thru the complete drive cycle. I was advised by the main mechanic to keep the gas tank stuffed with fuel during the drive cycle so not to kick on the SEL light and then the auto could be rescanned. I was concerned about the n/a status and I doubted if it would ever cycle to ok. Apparently the shop has a few customers who have the same problem and this is how they deal with it at inspection time here in NYS.@@RANDOMFIX
@lorettacaputo6997 don’t keep your fuel full keep it between 1/4 to 3/4.
Here is the complete nissan drive cycle if you run into an additional issues.
th-cam.com/video/s9PLkO-CjZ8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=vab4ATza6sEG2QDC
Hey friend mine its only the o2 monitor not ready ?? o2 heater is ready ...
did you get a fix?
I appreciate your feedback Sorry for the late reply, did you get this handled?
I have the same problem
Is the o2 monitor the only unset monitor? What year and make is the vehicle?
Tell me the back story. Thanks
I changed the cluster!!!! Short circuit..I bought it on eBay already programmed and passed emissions the same day.. I had the code for the cluster circuit kp+ .. the code was erasing after the car shut off..sorry took forever to reply
Looks like i got to replace my battery ill be darn. Explains why o2 senser cycle was taking forever.
I won’t replace a battery without load testing it. Here is an old video th-cam.com/video/Zpe_oOUZsUs/w-d-xo.htmlsi=GFdglt6Qhv0O2CfD
And these are pretty cheap and great to have. If your battery is over 5 years old or close to it and is lead acid battery just replace as there is no need to load test.
@@RANDOMFIX i had one of those lcd load testers and had a recheck at AutoZone they indeed said it needed replaced. Thanks for your help i passed the emissions test today after replacing battery oxygen and cat monitors cleared within 10 minutes of driving.
So I’ve driven about 800+ miles Total overall. Recently after the last reset it’s been 100 miles and everything set at 65 miles except for the o2 sensor. I’ve gone to autozone to have them check my battery and they say it’s good. My battery was replaced about a year ago. Could the battery be causing it to not set or is it the o2 sensors? Also to clarify the o2 heater is rdy, it’s just the o2 monitor itself.
Things I’ve done.
-Take battery off for over an hour.
-clean Maf, Throttle Body, Intake filter.
-Disconnected and cleaned connectors of o2 sensors. Made sure they were connected.
- done a ton of different drive cycles. It’s driving me insane.
It code be the o2 sensor but what are you driving? I will send you a more specific video for your vehicle. Lastly incase you do change your o2 make sure you go with oem and avoid the cheap 20 duller units.
If you have a live data scantool you can check the live data from the o2 sensor.
i have a 2013 mazda cx5 i don’t see anyone have a proper fix for just the o2 sensor not ready. I have no pending codes but 2 permanent codes for small leak every other monitor is set besides evap and i don’t need that. Can some one help my mazda o2 sensor get ready please. Yes the o2 heater is ready
You need to handle the permanent codes first th-cam.com/video/PMcJtcSOzdk/w-d-xo.htmlsi=EuR9PpcjvadmWHL4
Tried your Drive Cycle instructions for Jeep Wrangler. It did not work. O2 sensor monitor does not complete.
I appreciate your constructive comments, thank you for the feedback!
And it’s not the drive instructions, it’s the what happens on some jeeps
th-cam.com/video/Yn1-ul62Jio/w-d-xo.html
What year wrangler??
2000 dodge ram truck
I swear if all my car issues are battery related I'm going to be pissed
Don’t be surprised, I’ve seem people replace transmission when the battery was the cause. There is not harm in having a great battery.
I know batteries can be expensive so you don’t need to replace every battery, just load test it, check the charging system. Here is great 20 solutions th-cam.com/video/Zpe_oOUZsUs/w-d-xo.html and i would still disconnect the battery for 1 hour even if it shows good to reset any modules that might not communicating correctly.
Keep me in the loop.
too long. Way too loong
Would smaller shorter video be better?
A waist of life
I see, The video or the process of getting the o2 sensor monitor to set? If it’s the process you have not seen anything yet as the it will only get harder!!!
thank you
You are welcome. Did the video help?