Thank you Brother, I had drove my car 150miles, and three trips to the emissions tech; so the tech told me I need to get a new battery, I knew it was nothing wrong with my battery. I said, let me check TH-cam, I saw your post, followed your instructions, thank God and thank you, my car passed! be blessed in Jesus name!
I've been failing the inspection since last july of 2022, i've tried everything driving my car for 100 miles everytime then the check engine shows up, tried cataclean and other stuff nothing worked, ive seen your video last night and followed all your steps today and BOM!! my car passed the inspection, seriously thank you from the bottom of my heart, god bless you brother and i wish you a happy new year.
If cat clean is not working then you might have to take your heads apart and change your head gaskets. It is going to be something not visible. If the mixture of air, gas, and coolant isn't right, any small leak into your piston combustion will not allow you to smog
Thank you. I took my car into the shop and it didn't pass. They reset the electrical monitor and told me to drive it for 60 miles. I found your video and followed the instructions. Took my car back to a different shop the same day and passed the smog test. Continue being blessed.
I followed this man's advice for testing my 2005 Honda Accord and I passed the Arizona emission test. These directions will especially make sure you fulfill the EVAP portion, which was the only one I was having trouble with prior to watching this video. What I did for the highway part is drive around 3:00am so that I could allow my car to decelerate on its own upon an empty road. The bars close at 2:00am so I had to wait for drunk drivers to return home. I used my hazard lights when I took my foot off the gas and rolled to the side. Sir, you have my gratitude.
It's hard to reset Evap in Arizona. You have to do the drive cycle with half a tank of gas and with the intake air under 90°, something you might not even be able to do at night in Phoenix.
Me being in Tucson and the freeeway is FAAAR AWAY!! I decided to use River Rd (Because most, if not everyone goes 55-60). It is a nice shot,, MINUS THE DAMN STREET LIGHTS!! Was always ONE DAMN person at EVERY DAMN light. I guess it was not late enough. Was screaming and calling everyone drug addicts and alcoholics, with windows closed ;). Then the turns suck too. BUT... there is one great section. All my sensors came back on except the damn evap -_-. I went slow and used my blinker as if I was getting ready to turn, thankfully had no issues with people behind me to much. Did think about using hazards. Was worried about unwanted attention.
Any one who has experienced their car monitors not being ready and has figured it out for your specific vehicle please post for others to see so we can help each other. Smog can be very stressful and a big rip off. its all about helping each other, God Bless.
Here is the GM drive cycle.. General Motors Driving Cycle A complete driving cycle should perform diagnostics on all systems. A complete driving cycle can be done in under fifteen minutes. To perform an OBDII Driving cycle do the following: Cold Start. In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 50°C (122°F) and within 6°C (11°F) of the ambient air temperature at startup. Do not leave the key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run. Idle. The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire and if closed loop is achieved, Fuel Trim. Accelerate. Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 88km/hr (55mph) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed. Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed. Decelerate. Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift, touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 32km/hr (20 mph). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed. Accelerate. Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 88-96 km/hr (55-60mph). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3. Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst. Decelerate. This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears. GOD IS AWESOME! DRIVE ON oldskool funk!
You are a blessing! My car would not pass emissions, even after almost $700 worth of repairs at the dealership and driving it 280 miles trying to get the readiness codes to reset. I watched your video, followed your instructions exactly and the very next day, all three readiness codes were reset and I passed emissions! Thank you so much for sharing. God bless you
i’m so sorry they scammed you like that babe, they tried charging me $500 and i walked out. They know how to fix it they just use your own ignorance against you…
This was what I posted for a Smog tech who said I was lying, putting fear, misinforming, and trying to hustle you all please read. If you are legit then this does not pertain to you but if you are a RIP OFF SMOG TECH WHO TAKES ADVANTAGE OF PEOPLE WITH FAILED VEHICLES AND OVER CHARGE AND MISDIAGNOSE then this is for YOU to see. So I did this video to create fear, misinform and hustle people is what you are saying right? or could it be that I have been in the inside and seen the scandal and rip off tactics and schemes some Smog techs use to squeeze more money out of UNINFORMED CONSUMERS. I get nothing for making this video nor did I make it to receive anything I do it because I am sick and tired of seeing people get ripped off and its time to put the truth out there. I understand how you are upset and offended because you are a Smog Tech and I am exposing just a fraction of the RIP OFF that takes place in your trade. Your opinion is biased but my opinion comes from both sides since I worked with smog techs. The majority of people have no idea what a drive cycle even is AND YOU KNOW THAT. The Next time one of your customers fails for incomplete monitors and if your a TEST ONLY your going to refer them to another STAR certified shop and tell them you don,t know what the problem is because your not allowed to diagnose their car so you have to pass them off to get RIPPED OFF AGAIN at a STAR CERTIFIED repair station, after you do all that ASK THEM HOW THEY FEEL since you just TOOK and RIPPED THEM OFF when all you had to do was put your scanner on the car to see if the monitors were ready (which only takes minutes) but instead you run the car anyway with no integrity or concern for helping the consumer out. Now to the People: This is what takes place EVERY SINGLE DAY I have not even exposed the fake diagnostic and repair RIP OFF scam yet, video coming soon. It all comes down to the ALL MIGHTY DOLLAR and This is how and why the EPA, BAR, CARB, and other states created and came up with the CLEAN AIR RIP OFF ACT it is a MULTI BILLION DOLLAR INDUSTRY A YEAR and you the consumer are the prey. Now William ask your customers if they still like you and then realize HOW MANY CARS ARE UNREGISTERED AND SITTING BECAUSE OF THIS RIP OFF COST because some cannot afford a $1000 dollar CATALYTIC CONVERTER. And that is why I lie (as you say) to the people and misinform them. Dont letem foooolya Fight for whats right. Show less
+oldskool funk Great that you are doing this for the people. Not only will some mechanics take advantage of MIL/CEL a customer has even they can say crap for safety inspection that nothing to do with safety at all.
I just wanted to thank you for your time in making this video for us folk out here with the smog blues! Not only was it very personably done with concern for us, the customer, but you also took such great care to explain every step you were doing, and why, and repeated it over and over so that we really got it in our heads along with some confidence in the whole precedure! Mr,,,,,YOU ROCK!!! Thank you soooooooo much!!!! I can do this!
Thank you, thank you. For the info. 3 years and in the middle of the corona virus and my little tacoma 6 cylinder just won't register. I gave your cycle a try and pow. Wouldn't you know. Again thank you, thank you 2021 finally got my truck back
It is absolutely INSANE that we have to go through all this to get our cars to pass a test. My tester said emissions are good (and low), everything was great, except the computer itself was no doing it's self-check. How is that OUR FAULT??? I literally drive my car more to pass this test than I do all year. Ridiculous.
Hey everyone. I was so stressed out because my car failed the smog test initially after I cleared the codes. This literally saved my life. Although the evap wasn't ready but still passed. Thank you brother!
Will my car pass if I have 1 incomplete monitor? All others are cleared but 1 (EGR system). I want to smog mine today, but am scared because I have 1 incomplete, everything else emissions wise passes tho.
I AM a Smog tech with 20+ years experience, for the most part what your saying is true. i fail a lot of smogs for incomplete monitors. and most the time its because the customer is trying to hide the check engine lamp concern. but for the most part if they just perform the drive cycle correctly they will PASS. also keep in mind that some of the monitored systems are whats call 2 cycle monitors and require that the drive cycle be performed twice
Every vehicle 🚗 has different criteria for monitors to complete. It’s up to the driver to meet those specifications🤓. If it doesn’t complete its cause the pcm/ecm has registered a drivability issue..Its them dumb mechanics 🧰 who can’t diagnose correctly who steal money 💰 from naive customers. They make everyone else look 👀 like thieves. The Smog program works if u use it correctly. Ask questions. Get 🧾 s follow the 3 (C)s. Which are: Complaint: what the driver is concerned with. Cause: what causing the concern. Correction: what you did to correct the concern. God bless and ask questions and don’t give ur money away
I straight thought this was bullshit..... up until 2 hours ago. I took my car out, hopped on the freeway, did exactly 60-64 mph for 7 minutes, let it come to a complete stop on it's own, drove the street to the smog center..... passed. I just subbed. And this is in the year 2021.
@@SonStashu Yeah. Four different times, so I ended up wasting gas until I ran across this video. I think I drove damn near 400 miles trying to get it to reset too. 😐
Dont forget, the Evap one that is so hard to reset - always the very LAST one - at 27:45. There is a very important detail that is vital NOT to forget. DO NOT fill up the car all the way with gas, and don't drive the car for the test with less then 1/4 tank either! If you do EVAP not reset. Fuel level has be more then 1/4 full but less then 3/4 full! . Say the fuel level is ideal must be between 1/4 full and 2/3 full fuel level and you are golden. So a little over 1/2 tank and you are probably good for that part of test. The "Evap" will reset LAST but all things being equal WILL reset with OldSkool's directions here... but fuel level IS important, neither too much nor too little! .
The hard part for me is that the intake air temperature has to be under 90°, something that's not going to happen in Phoenix before my plates expire. Fortunately AZ allows *one* diag not ready.
If I run my drive cycle and finally get my OBD Scanner to show green, how long will have to take it to shop for emissions before the next cycle happens and computer runs selftest? For example I am afraid its green and suddenly right before the shop, it runs cycle and check engine light comes on? What is my time limit in this case?
After driving 1000 miles plus, my Toyota RAV4 2009 would not set the oxygen sensor and the catalyst monitors. Very frustrated! Then Tried this way and worked on the first time!!!!!! And passed smog! YAY! Thank you so very much!
Thank you so much man. this worked for my 1998 lincoln navigator after putting in 1000 miles and was about to give up..i did the 55 mph 5 min..and used an onramp at 6am in the morning..and the CAT is now COMPLETE!!!
Hey man, I've been trying to get my car to complete the cycles and everything I tried didn't work. Found your video, did everything you said and it cleared all the codes and passed smog. It works !! Thanks man, i really appreciate it.
I completed my drive cycle this morning (just one cycle), went to the inspection spot, prayed, drove in and PASSED! Thank you so much for sharing this video. Friendly FYI I did NOT use a scanner during my drive cycle. LIKED ✅ COMMENTED ✅ SUBSCRIBED ✅ God Bless you!
Thanks a lot for this video. I went thru emissions 3 times in the last 2 months. I watched this video and followed everything as you said. I went to emissions the same day and i finally past i can't believe it, I'm so happy. THANKS
I was quoted a 200 bucks to get my ford to pass smog.. followed your video and it worked perfectly! ! thanks for taking the time to make it.. saved me a bunch if cash..
Study the Evap drive cycle very thoroughly before you do it. It is a very stubborn task for many vehicles and requires detailed steps sometimes. Attack it my man.
Thank you brother I needed that I need my car no car no work no work no house no jamming May the best of things always happen to you for you and or with you
Yo.. I'm a smog technician. I like your video because it explains I/M monitor testing to common folks. I am that shop that informs his customers of what to do in these cases. Knowledge is key. I never "Rip" anyone off but I know some shops can take advantage of ignorance. Lol that Evap set mighty quick! Good job & God Bless
Oldschool besides being a natural teacher ya got morals. a thousand thanks. You teachin me to never clear the cars codes. First time I cleared the codes while waiting in line for the IL air test an first time the car ever failed. Lord will pay you 100 folds for sharin your knowledge
Thank you for taking your time and educating us car people so we know what to do before our smog test. This video will be saved for future use. Drive cycle ready.
I LIKE THIS GUY! HE COULD BE A GREAT TEACHER TO TEACH PEOPLE THAT DONT KNOW THE BASIC. GOD BLESS YOU BROTHER. THEY NEED TO MAKE MORE VIDEOS LIKE THIS HE EXPLAINS HIS WORK IN DETAIL. 4 STAR RATING.
Daygo? The bridge you referring to is in Chula Vista off the 805 south toward TJ, imma use the same route too. I’m definitely doing this tomorrow morning. Thanks OG!
GM drive cycle Autotap® OBDII Diagnostic Scanner General Motors Driving Cycle A complete driving cycle should perform diagnostics on all systems. A complete driving cycle can be done in under fifteen minutes. To perform an OBDII Driving cycle do the following: Cold Start. In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 50°C (122°F) and within 6°C (11°F) of the ambient air temperature at startup. Do not leave the key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run. Idle. The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire and if closed loop is achieved, Fuel Trim. Accelerate. Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 88km/hr (55mph) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed. Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed. Decelerate. Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift, touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 32km/hr (20 mph). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed. Accelerate. Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 88-96 km/hr (55-60mph). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3. Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst. Decelerate. This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift g
I just failed yesterday so I will be trying this. The tech told us to drive on freeway 70 to 80 miles and come back. Ours had pass on everything but Not Ready on smoke check and Evaporative. Thank you for helping everyone. I am a 75 year old woman and I feel good about your method.🌹♥️🙏🏾
Thank you for this video. Though i do not live in the US but in Mexico, emissions testing here have changed. And this certainly came in handy as many cars fail the tests in Mexico City. Also so far 295 smog techs disliked this video
I always find myself looking for this post every two years to help my Jeep pass. His technique is the most accurate out of all the posts I have reviewed and tried. Keep in mind California does not require the EVAP monitor to be ready. Much love my brother!
Cool video. Helped me understand why my car failed due to "not ready" catalyst. So I had a test pipe on my car, which left me with a P0420 code and I forgot to erase it when I put the catalytic converter back on, so naturally the sensors weren't "ready". After watching this vid I cleared the codes, took it for a spin, and that didn't help. So the service manual for my Acura said to do the idle relearn procedure (shut off radio and AC, park, keep at 3k RPM till the radiator fans kick in, then idle for 5 mins) then driving 55pmh for 2 mins, then coast for a few seconds, then 55mph for 20 mins. I did everything except for the 55 mph @ 20 mins and I was able to get the O2S and Catalyst showing as "ready", awesome! Now I need to do the 20 min drive cause the EVAP is still showing "not ready". ...I did the idle relearn procedure again, went on freeway and did the 20 mins @ 55mph, then took some streets back home and coasted a few times and EVAP is now Ready, wooo hooo! Time to get this car smogged!
This man knows his stuff! I was having a problem with my Catalytic converter+ sensor on my '02 Solara. I could not get it to be "smog ready" before the "Check engine light" came on. I followed the mans instruction and it worked like a charm. I passed. god bless this man, Im so appreciative of him saving me a lot of money and not to mention a lot of stress, energy and fatigue that Im going to send him $40. Thanks, oldskool.
Thank you for your comment Adwaye. No worries about the money brother. I do this from the heart to help people. I know how painful smog is for everybody and I cant stand how much of a rip off it is. Just knowing my videos can help others is my reward, Glad the Video helped you out, God Bless.
Thank you man! I had seen your video about 1 year ago. When my Chrysler Pacifica would not pass smog. It worked then. Now I had my Genesis that could not pass due to the O2 censor not being ready. I drove it for 300 miles and it was still not ready. I’m glad I remembered your video listen to it while I was driving the car. Followed it to the exact instruction, finally the O2censored is ready. My recommendation to all is drive it at night cause there is less traffic and it’s easier to keep it at 60mph and if you have cruise control even better.
It’s a great and reliable video. Was facing this kinda issue back then with my emission test so I had to look for a way, which was how I came across Stray Admin who has got years in experience of helping lots of citizens pass they’re Smog test too.
This video just saved my butt! I drive a Chrysler Pacifica and had 2 monitors not ready after replacing a catalytic converter , alternator, and EGR valve. We spent many miles trying to get all the monitors ready for smog. I found this video and did exact steps...exact route too since I live in the same area! The 2 remaining monitors cleared and the van passed smog. Thanks for the tip and I will tell all my friends about this cycle.
i know this video is old but i want to thank you for your help. i had an older car that i rarely drive that needed to be smogged but the battery had to be replaced. i should have waited but the mechanic played on my ignorance. he actually told me to have the smog guys reset my monitors 😠. i did the drive cycle right after watching your video and MY MONITORS WERE RE SET. it felt like a weight lifted off of me. lesson learned...NEVER DISCONNECT A BATTERY BEFORE A SMOG!!! GOD BLESS YOU!!!!
Thanks bro for making this video. I failed emissions test the other day and they told me I had to drive 100 miles under 60 mph, and that didn't work. So now I'm about to try this and hopefully it works. I have a 07 Tahoe so I looked up the GM Drive Cycle and hopefully it works. Also i got a little more from this video as well about my faith in my works and keeping God first. May God Bless You my brother in Christ for helping others.
Right on Andre, Its all up to the drive cycle from here on for your car, plan it out, be safe driving, use your hazards, God Bless brother Jesus Christ, first.
Drove the car around for 1200 Miles and could not get the O2 and heat 02 to pass. Went to the gas station 10 times and he just told me to keep on driving. Then I saw your video and followed what you did to the T. Went this morning and it passed inspection thank you very much you’re a good man.
YO, IT WORKED !!! They had me driving 50 miles ... 3 different times... got to thinking, got to be a better way.. Watched your video and did just like you said... Thanks Man !!!
Hey Oldskool funk, thanks to your video on how to do a (drive cycle), I was able to pass my 2002 Ford Ranger and I didn't even need the OBDII scanner. You saved me big time. God bless my brother
Thank you for giving us your know how in the smog field. I been ripped off before. I appreciate you thinking about other people. If we only care about ourselves , what reward is in that?
This sounded absolutely silly to me at first. Except it actually worked! I drove the car on the highway for 300 miles, didn't work. Did 3000 rpm's for 3 minutes, didn't work. To be more precise, do a search for your car model and the words 'Drive Cycle'. Each car make has different driving actions that the computer is looking for. Thank you so much for this video oldskool funk! You gave my spare car 2 years more life (smog).
Forgot to mention, I used Cataclean first to clean the catalytic converter. The check engine light didn't go away by itself after driving 60 miles, so I had to clear the codes with the scanner. Luckily the CEL didn't come back on again before your Drive Cycle method worked. Also, I recommend doing the Drive Cycle at night. For one, there are way less cars on the road, and the other, less chance your expired tags will be noticed by unwanted eyes. :)
Thanks for posting this I have a 2006 Honda Civic and it failed because My evap and catalytic converter I/M were not ready after looking at your video, This gave me a good Idea on how to get it done. I tried 3 times and they would not read. But after seeing this video I looked at manual for my car and the emissions page had axactly how to do it for my car. I woke up this morning after letting my car sit. I turn the key for 20 seconds and then started the car Revved to 2000 RPMs for 3 min. I drove to work between 50 and 60 miles and on the ramps I let it coast without touching the brake, I got to work turned the car off for a half an hour. when I checked all of the I/M sensors were ready. I took to Inspection and it passed with flying colors. Also almost forgot to mention if you don't have a scanner. Turn the key to II wait 20 seconds the check engine light will blink 5 times if the sensors are not ready, Once the sensors are ready when you turn the key it will turn off. This mean they are ready and you have completed your drive cycle Thanks for posting this
David Robles Right on that makes my day when I hear this kind of news and I am very serious. Smog is a big hassle and a rip off. It can be a nightmare for many people I am diagnosing a smog issue right now that is a challenge but I never stop pushin forward and will figure it out. I did not know about the check engine light letting you know when the monitors are ready on a 2006 Civic. I just learned something new and will add that to my next how to beat the smog video lol. Thank you for taking the time to post David I appreciate it very much and congrats on getting rid of the headache until the next smog lol J/k. Keep your head up God Bless.
damn, bro! you saved me so much money and nerves. after driving cycles for 400 miles i tried what you recommend. Used hand break. 10 mins after all monitors are good. You are a MAN!
Amen bro! I just watched a bunch of your videos (subcribed), and have to say your a very knowledgeable guy.. But more importantly I have to compliment you on your integrity, honor and faith.. I flip cars also and I'm happy to see another Christian brother doing the same and taking care of people at the same time. It's people like us who through Christ can shine some light to the world, even if it's just easing there mind when they buy our used cars, knowing we're not trying to rip them off. Keep up the good work and God bless!
Amen Superado STAY STRONG out there don't let nothing break your faith in Jesus brother. I got a car flipping video coming out pretty soon on how I do it step by step also, keep your head up God Bless Soulja.
That’s why I fix my cars myself I don’t trust mechanics. Nowadays there’s a lot of info on the web because of people like you which I really appreciate. 96 Nissan 200sx fix the codes and now cat and o2 not ready.
The easiest and fastest way to complete the drive cycles and get the monitors ready that I have ever found is the following: #1. Fully warm up the engine, then drive on the highway/interstate at normal interstate speed ( without stopping ) using cruise control for 15 to 20 minutes. This will test everything except for half of the evap system. Many of the tests can not be run at low engine speed or if you are accelerating with much throttle. This is why cruise control helps so much. It maintains a nominal engine speed, under load, at a constant speed while the engine is fully warmed up. This is the perfect condition that almost all tests will run at. If you don't have cruise control, just keep the throttle and speed as steady as you can manually. #2. Park the car, turn it off and let it fully cool down for 1 to 1.5 hours ( depending on how hot it is outside ). This runs the other half of the evap test which only happens when the car is turned off and cooling down. It watches the pressure in the gas tank to see if it falls when it cools down. Some cars also have electric vacuum/pressure pumps the gets activated as the car is cooling down. Perform these steps exactly two. Why twice? There are 2 classes of OBDII codes, class A and class B. Class A codes will set immediately or after only 1 drive cycle. Class B codes will only set after being successfully tested on 2 drives cycles. Notice the word "successfully". If the proper conditions are not present during a drive cycle, the test won't run. This is why many people have to perform lots and lots of drive cycles to get the tests to complete. They simply don't know or understand how to create the conditions required for the tests to be successfully run. Once you know how, it's very easy! Anyone can do it.
I have been driving cars to set monitors for a few years now. I agree with most of what you say, but using the emergency brake to stop the car on a busy road isn't a good idea. The cars behind you won't notice you stopping because the brake lights won't light up, and you may get hit, same applies to just "coasting" to a stop. Also, to help run EVAP, make sure you half between 3/4 and 1/4 of a tank of fuel. On most cars, a little above half works well.
Emission test relying solely on OBD2 monitors has added stress to car owners whose OBD2 monitors have shown to be not ready when their cars are taken to the emission test centers. Now, they have to perform all kinds of procedures, which are difficult to complete (maybe not to an expert), to get the monitors ready. If the monitors are not ready, let's say just couple of them, car owners should have the option to get their cars tested through I/M 240 dynamometer or another test which truly measures the pollutants coming from the car's emission. Local governments who require emission test and emission test centers opted not to do this anymore for cars equipped with OBD2 technology. I'm not exactly sure why they resorted to that, maybe because it takes longer or the equipment required for I/M240 are way too expensive to purchase and to maintain. Emission test is no longer an emission test if the only option is testing OBD2 monitors. It should be called emission monitors test or test for a car's emission technology but it should no longer be called emission test per se. OBD2 testing is efficient and clean, yes, but give the car owners an option to get the pollutants coming from their cars' emission actually tested through I/M 240 (or another method that is truly testing emission and not the car's technology) when their OBD monitors are showing not ready especially if they are not throwing any codes.
The procedure below worked on my 2014 Honda Accord. Note: I found it on the web. Here is a typical Honda Accord drive cycle. Driving your Honda Accord in the manner below should make the required Emission Monitors "Ready". Before you start the Drive Cycle make sure your Honda Accord's fuel level is between 1/4 and 3/4, otherwise the EVAP test won't run. Make sure to obey all traffic laws while performing the drive cycle. 1. Begin by idling the engine while 2 1/2 minutes. Next idle for another 2 1/2 minutes with the A/C compressor and rear defroster on and while the transmission is in Drive (D); only of automatic transmission. This part of the drive cycle checks the oxygen sensor heater circuits, air pump and EVAP purge system. 2. Turn the A/C compressor off and rear window defroster off and accelerate to 55 mph at half throttle. During this step the OBDII system checks for ignition misfire, fuel trim and EVAP canister purge. 3. Hold at a steady state speed of 55 mph for 3 minutes. The computer will now be testing the EGR system, air injection pump, O2 sensors and canister purge. 4. Decelerate to 20 mph without braking (or depressing the clutch). Once again the computer system will check EGR and purge functions. 5. Accelerate back to 55 to 60 mph at half throttle. During this step the OBDII system will look for misfires, fuel trim and EVAP purge. 6. Hold at a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for 5 minutes. Catalytic converter efficiency, EGR flow, ignition misfire, fuel trim, EVAP system and oxygen sensors operation will now be checked. 7. Decelerate to a stop without braking (or depressing clutch). The OBDII system will complete the drive cycle at this point. We recommend completing this drive cycle at least twice in order to ensure all required parameters have been met.
That is a very good made, simple to understand introduction on how to clear all I/M in most cases. My old lady had the battery disconnected for about 15 sec. , enough to wipe out all I/M's for the smog test. After your video followed your procedure and cleared all I/M's and passed the smog test. Thanks Bro and God bless
I have the catalyst obdII reading as not ready for 2004 kia spectra. Someone at auto zone removed my battery to help me put in my headlight over two months ago. I didn't realize what that actually does when the batteries disconnected. Would it still read not ready after all this time & Do I have to complete all these steps to execute the catalyst monitor or 1-3 & step 7?
I been a smog tech in cal for 15 years. What oldskool did was right to set the monitors on most cars.I just want to add a few things he didnt mention even though he did them right. Its very important that you start your car when it is completely cold and once it is started just let it idle, DO NOT drive the car for 3 or 4 minutes.If the car isnt cold or if it is cold and you drive away with out it idling for a few minutes you can drive it all day and you will never set the evap monitor on most cars.This only applies to the evap monitor.
I really appreciate you, thank you for taking so much time sharing this! And you're right.. the smog technician advised me to add miles due to my reset system. But he never elaborated on what/why specifics. I took so many notes that you gave ( _and was holding my breath for you during the lack of registration chat, and then that cop cruising by_ 😂), and now I need to see what applies to my Jeep. Be blessed. 💖
Just followed your instructions and they finally cleared all my IM codes! 🙌🏽 Several hundreds of miles and finally your instructions did the trick for my 2004 Acura TSX. Thank you!
Thanks for the great video, and a nice job to have to drive around San Diego, though maintaining 55-65 mph is like a scene from the movie "Speed". Good you don't have to try that on the 405 in West L.A. The CA smog rules are quite complicated, and most driver's are fairly clueless. Don't the "monitors" apply only to ~2002+ vehicles? I read that 2005+ can have only 1 monitor "incomplete", whereas earlier allowed 3. But, no easier for my 1996 because it requires the costlier STAR test, while new cars get a free ride for ~5 years, like another bone ripped from the poor and thrown to the rich.
I drove for over 700+ miles and could not get it to pass smog. I saw your video and I did exactly as u described and first try it cleared all my codes and made my truck pass smog. Thanks a hole bunch you saved me a butt load of money.... thanks....
I had p0420 code so I cleared the codes and what you said and it worked perfectly !! Thank you so much man . You just saved me 600$ . Much love . God bless .
@@alanchanthavisouk8557 I was able to do this too with a P0420 code in my Nissan without fixing anything, I just erased the check engine light did the drive cycle and as soon as my I/M monitors turned green took it straight to get smog and passed... not even 20 minutes after passing the smog the check engine light came back on, so be ready to take it to the smog asap after doing this
Rule of thumb that seems to work is driving normally until temp guage is half way (goes into O2 closed loop) for about 15min, then drive some highway miles. (At least past 45MPH.) If you take it to emissions after getting the car warmed up, then it usually goes through ok. Of course this varies per car, but seems pretty consistent on GM 3400 V6. Braking normally doesn't seem to bother it at all, but my car has no problems with vacuum going to the brake, fuel system is airtight, and evap gets enough vacuum to work as it should. (If normal braking causes a fail, it's likely something wrong with a coast-down vacuum condition affecting the emissions stuff.)
+oldskool funk- many thanks for sharing these great tips! I bought the same Actron scanner and used it to save lots of time and money to pass smog today! In fact, the OBD codes on the Actron scanner matched the smog station computers exactly. Once I finished a few more drive cycles similar to what you posted in the video (BMW in my case has own drive cycle method), then I was able to pass with flying colors! I recommend the Actron Elite scanner it is the best compared to others on the market.
I just did this on my 2004 Mazdaspeed Miata and it worked beautifully! The Catalyst and EGR passed after the highway run. The evap test passed after a few minutes of stop and go at 35mph. This is a blessing since I obtained the official instructions from Mazda to run a drive cycle on my model car and it's far more complicated than your instructions.
Congrats on passing your smog. I am in the process of finishing a drive cycle for a 96 Civic and its driving me nuts, I might have to change the Catalytic Converter but will not know until tomorrow. Ya some of the drive cycle modes are harder than others you just need to hunt it down. Nothing like passing the dreaded rip off smog test huh? lol.
Bro thank you so much I did this cleared all my monitors and I had 4 engine codes just cleared it did what you said and I passed I'm so fucking happy thank you so much man!
Amber Fillmore Nope. I cleared it and the guy knew I cleared the codes because the car has codes that need to warm up before taking it for emissions. I eventually found the problem but sold it and bought a mustang.
Just wanted to thank you for your help, I followed the steps in your video and was able to reset and pass the smog test. I was about to get rid of my 2000 Yukon but watched your video and took care of that asap. I am truly grateful. God Bless
Thanks for your great video. I drove my car for over a thousand miles and the Catalyst on the OBDII was not complete when I took it to get smogged. I watched your video and followed your instructions and took it back and it passed. Thanks for your help, You're the Best!
Currently going through this BS. On a manual car do I leave it in gear when coasting to a stop or do I put it in neutral? Thanks for making this vid, it has helped me realize that I don't need to drive it around till the monitor reads ready, like the tech said. I have everything ready except the Catalyst.
Thanks Sir! Been putting off smog due to knowing IM monitors not yet ready but you really made it easy and simple in under an hour and with patience in posting this! I salute You!!!!!
I was looking for instructions on how to do the driving cycle for my car and tought all I need is a good route to drive and do the cycle , after a couple minutes of watching the video I realized that 805 freeway is just by were I live in Chula Vista.
I had a clutch rebuilt and right now I am going through this B.S. in California! Thank you for posting this. I failed because the OBD failed but everything else passed with flying colors. The Tech said the computer was reset. Told me to drive 400 miles. I told he is fing high to waste all that gas. Now I know what to do. Thank you sir ! Now know how to reset everything. Just sucks I have a fresh full tank of gas.
Thanks oldskool funk. Great video! I have a 2007 Mazda 3 that wasn't passing California smog. I found this Drive Cycle on a Mazda site. I did it this morning (6 a.m. on I-5 a little scary so be careful) and Voila! I took it back and it passed. I'm reprinting it here. Hope it helps someone else. "Emission monitors, including the one for the catalytic converter, are set to ready by a condition based drive cycle, not by how many miles you drive it. Below is the drive cycle to perform. You have to do it exactly as described in the order described. Ensure that the fuel tank is between 1/4 and 3/4 full. Start cold (below 86°F /30°C) and warm up until engine coolant temperature is at least 160° F (typically requires at least one minute; up to 3 minutes). Accelerate to 40-55 MPH at 25% throttle and maintain speed for five minutes. Decelerate without using the brake (coast down) to 20 MPH or less, then stop the vehicle. Allow the engine to idle for 10 seconds, turn the key off, and wait one minute. Restart and accelerate to 40-55 MPH at 25% throttle and maintain speed for two minutes. Decelerate without using the brake [or the clutch!] by coasting down to 20 MPH or less, then stop the vehicle. Allow the engine to idle for 10 seconds, turn the key off, and wait one minute. If they monitors do not set as ready after doing the above drive cycles, either there is a low voltage condition to the computer(usually a slightly weak battery), or the catalytic converter is marginal in performance and needs to be replaced."
ed burkhardt Congratulations on passing the dreaded rip off smog lol. What a relief huh? Im working on a car that failed right now and one more right after that, Smog is brutal at times lol. Thank you so much for posting your vehicles drive cycle we appreciate it very much its all about helping each other and keeping the Gov from digging to deep in our pockets, Keep your head up Ed.
God bless brother, Im over watching for a 2nd time, and I can feel ur grace and kindness in what u do. And so, in such a simple video, u touch people by just witnessing WHOM, real work for, thanks, God prosper you more...
This works! It did it last night because there's less traffic at night. My Chrysler Pacifica 2006 passed smog. I got on the freeway and put it on cruise control over 55MPH drove for 5+ minutes than drove the street for 20 minutes both the CAT an O2 sensor reset. Thank you for posting it. FYI Before I drove the car over 200 miles and took it to the smog place and they kept telling me the monitors where not ready. Did this and it works.
Please help! I'm completely lost. I see you oldskool funk, live near me. I've now taken my 2003 ford taurus to 2 smog places, driven freeways and stop & go, still monitors are not ready. Today, 5-19-2015 smog place says one of my cylinders is misfiring, waited all day for a call, then half-hour before they closed I called them, oh, drive it on the freeway (again) then see if monitors are ready, if not then we'll start replacing fuel injector, etc. They said, they couldn't locate the problem bc not familiar with the history of my car, this is RIDICULOUS. I don't know if getting the device you have would matter or not, because I cannot follow everything you say and do. I'm completely confused, but I do know when I'm being ripped off by this so called Smog check new law. I don't have a lot of money and quite frankly don't know a thing about cars. Please help!! (I do attend church weekly and believe in being honest, God lives)
Thanks for sharing the knowledge! I got an Actron CP9575 earlier this year but only understood how to reference the more obvious error codes, etc.. I'm gonna apply this to my current maintenance. The 9575 also reads live data to a fairly extensive amount and now i can finally utilize a bunch of the other info that i've been curious but clueless about. Your safety and procedure pointers are also appreciated. The real time approach is cool for confirmation of what you're explaining and helps it all make clear sense. Awesome!
Thank you, Thank you, Thank you! I did exactly what you said and it worked. My smog failed a few days ago and I was already 2 days overdue for my new tags. My car sits quite a bit so jumping the battery over and over kept restarting the codes. I was able to pass this morning and get my car registered. Thank you again. It really works. I have proof! I truly appreciate you for posting this information!!! God Bless!
@Standing Man UWYouthOrg a generation silence inheritance like 1989 China. The Venus Project for the youth, free the old from the broke(n) carbon farmed slave populated infrastructure proven unsustainable on a Titanic ride under cloud. Money and it's capitalistic poisoning has to stop as what sustains us momentarily is fake and will kill us.
oldskool u speak true. the cars that need repairs are the one with smoke coming out the exhaust. all other cars dont need repairs for exhaust air. cars are more clean than before 1995 and most of the cars before 95 are also clean. now the cars that are poluting the most from before 95 are becoming exempt from smog. when it should be the newer cars that should be exempt from smog test, they run cleaner and more efficent. we the mechanics and technitions shouldnt fear police when out on the street testing a car. we are the ones who they come to to fix their cars. keep doing what u do oldskool. "handleit"
I own a 2001 Hyundai Sonata and I had two codes pending but no check light (P0128, P1167). What had happened was that the check light came on but then went off while driving, so I never cleared the check engine light. The car's computer did this all on its own. But anway, I scanned for codes and had no fault codes but I had 2 codes pending. I erased the codes with a scanner and had to deal with getting the monitors ready. All monitors except for the catalyst were ready within 3 days and I still had no codes. The last monitor was the catalyst monitor and it was a big problem. After driving over 250 miles, it was still not ready for smog. This was the only monitor I had not ready. In the state of California (other states could be slightly different) there was a time not long ago when you could have any one monitor not ready for smog on a 2000 or newer car. But changes were made, and now the only one monitor that does not have to be ready is the evap. If the evap is ready, then all monitors have to be ready on a 2000 or newer. (Except for new cars up to 6 years old which do not require a smog check anymore). The good news is that these cars no longer need to be placed on a dyno which checks for hydrocarbons, CO2, and Nitrogen Oxide levels coming out of the tailpipe; however, cars 1999 or older will have to go through this check on a dyno. I did have a mechanic tell me to fill up with premium gas and drive it hard (70mph+) on the freeway for at least 10 minutes which will help with reducing the hydrocarbons. Also, on a 1996 through 1999 car, you use to be allowed two monitors not ready, now it is one. Anyway, I drove my car on the highway and in the city following your instruction as in this video. It didn't work the first time so I did it again, only I did it for 10 minutes. Afterwards, I drove through the city, stopped at traffic lights and stop signs and after arriving home, my catalyst monitor finally cleared. I did this on a Sunday, so I couldn't go to smog right away. Today, which is Monday, I got down to the smog check and I passed my smog. That's right, I passed that bad boy......yes! I would advise anyone getting a smog to go to a place that only does smog. Even if you go to a STAR station, if they are also a repair facility, they might come up with some BS about how you need this or that before they do the smog test. They might lie by saying that you will most likely fail smog if you don't change out this or that right now. But a test only smog facility cannot sell you anything because all they do is smog and you won't have to deal with the scams. Also, the drive cycle for the Hyundai Sonata is below. Just be aware that this cycle is for most Hyundai cars with a few exceptions. ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/indytech/2012-03-18_000622_web_posting_non-delphi_drive_cycle.pdf
Great job in staying persistent. That is what it takes sometimes. You must handle that smog test and be very aggressive . I smog cars all the time and it really takes a toll on me sometimes. To who ever reads this the next time you try to complete your monitors and your having a hard time. Get back on the freeway, erase the codes while driving and keep doing it until they start to clear. I dont wait anymore. I keep erasing the codes until its handled. Thank you for your input and the drive cycle for your vehicle it really helps us all out because the smog test is very dreadful at times. Keep your head up in 2019 and stay standing and bold like a Lion. God is good all the time.
Thanks for everything. I also wanted to mention that I used your route on 805 south to Palm Avenue. I recognized the route you took because I use to live in Chula Vista; I now live in National City. After it didn't clear the first time, I took a different route. I took the 5 north near the border in San Ysidro. There was no traffic on 5 north since all the traffic was crammed on the Mexico side trying to get to the US. I took this highway up to the Plaza Blvd exit in National City. Plaza exit is downhill, but the slope is not that bad. But what's good about it, is there are no stop signs or traffic lights at the bottom of the hill. You also have the option of turning onto two residential streets or just coasting straight down Plaza. The first traffic light is two blocks away from the bottom of the exit hill. There are no stop signs before you reach this light. The only bad thing I see about doing the drive cycle is for cars that have an emergency foot brake, not a hand brake. In this case, I would suggest using the gearshift into 2nd gear, then low gear. What do you think? UPDATE: I just found out today that starting on January 1, 2019, there will be new smog rules (California Only). Drivers will not need to smog their cars if they have a car that is eight years old or newer. For the first six years, the abatement fee of $20 remains unchanged. For the last two years, owners will pay an annual $25 smog abatement fee.
omg thank you. i knew this was a gamble but it worked for me and you just saved me so much money and bought me some more time. i had a check engine light on with code p770 shift solenoid e malfunction, but my trans was running fine and the mechanic told me it would cost anywhere from $500-1500! that's half the value of my car and i could not justify spending that much. first, i pulled the emf fuse out for a minute, then did the drive cycle just as you said, then added some oil and used carb cleaner on throttle body, filled tank up halfway, filled tires with air and took it directly to the smog station when the light didn't come back on. it passed! thank you!
wow I did this without using an action or any code reader. I just disconnected the battery at a gas station bye a freeway on ramp made sure I didn't hit the breaks just used my E-break got on the freeway and keeped it between 35 and 55 miles an hour for 5 minutes then exited useing the break four at least 5 stop lights or 5 minutes. no more check engine light and went straight to the smog station. passed with flying colors. vwryt happy now great idea good job bro. for the video you posted.
true but the scanner is nice tool for long term diagnosis with paying $$$ to shop just to look at check engine light. BUT I drove normally and still would not fix issue. I had to complete BMW drive cycles to get I/M ready state several times this week almost 200 miles!
"lol" you obviously have no experience with readiness tests not starting/finishing. MANY cars literally take over a thousand miles of "regular" driving until all tests clear if you do not drive in the vehicles specific drive cycles multiple times, including letting the car sit in between cycles overnight to get complete cold starts.
SUPEROBSCUREBEATS actually theyre programed to run asap under "normal" driving. If they're not running for someone for 1000 miles u are very far into "abnormal" conditions. And i do have plenty of experience with obd2 (but yes like u said.. Not much with "drive cycle problems" if everything is working properly and u have patience u can avoid driving around like an idiot (or wasting time on the dyno.) My comment is directed towards the 99% of people reading this.. I repeat u don't need to worry about drive cycles. Theyre designed to be invisible and automatic (thats what makes them an effective self check)
Well the good thing is having this code reader is very helpful for troubleshooting issues and pro active maintenance at low cost besides just smog pass tests.
![4 Tricks to Use to Pass an Emissions Test Every time - [How to Pass an Emissions Test]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/gr4g-nTZXUk/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you Brother, I had drove my car 150miles, and three trips to the emissions tech; so the tech told me I need to get a new battery, I knew it was nothing wrong with my battery. I said, let me check TH-cam, I saw your post, followed your instructions, thank God and thank you, my car passed! be blessed in Jesus name!
I've been failing the inspection since last july of 2022, i've tried everything driving my car for 100 miles everytime then the check engine shows up, tried cataclean and other stuff nothing worked, ive seen your video last night and followed all your steps today and BOM!! my car passed the inspection, seriously thank you from the bottom of my heart, god bless you brother and i wish you a happy new year.
Make sure there are no pending codes and eventually will clear
Will the OBD2 monitors still activate with pending codes? Or should you clear it first before doing a drive cycle?
For real man you answer my prayers to God. Im glad i came across your video
I like your manners for real. Even polite and apologize. You were raised right.
If cat clean is not working then you might have to take your heads apart and change your head gaskets. It is going to be something not visible. If the mixture of air, gas, and coolant isn't right, any small leak into your piston combustion will not allow you to smog
Thank you. I took my car into the shop and it didn't pass. They reset the electrical monitor and told me to drive it for 60 miles. I found your video and followed the instructions. Took my car back to a different shop the same day and passed the smog test. Continue being blessed.
😊😊😊
I followed this man's advice for testing my 2005 Honda Accord and I passed the Arizona emission test. These directions will especially make sure you fulfill the EVAP portion, which was the only one I was having trouble with prior to watching this video. What I did for the highway part is drive around 3:00am so that I could allow my car to decelerate on its own upon an empty road. The bars close at 2:00am so I had to wait for drunk drivers to return home. I used my hazard lights when I took my foot off the gas and rolled to the side. Sir, you have my gratitude.
It's hard to reset Evap in Arizona. You have to do the drive cycle with half a tank of gas and with the intake air under 90°, something you might not even be able to do at night in Phoenix.
Tasadaru thanks for the info.
Me being in Tucson and the freeeway is FAAAR AWAY!! I decided to use River Rd (Because most, if not everyone goes 55-60). It is a nice shot,, MINUS THE DAMN STREET LIGHTS!! Was always ONE DAMN person at EVERY DAMN light. I guess it was not late enough. Was screaming and calling everyone drug addicts and alcoholics, with windows closed ;). Then the turns suck too. BUT... there is one great section. All my sensors came back on except the damn evap -_-.
I went slow and used my blinker as if I was getting ready to turn, thankfully had no issues with people behind me to much. Did think about using hazards. Was worried about unwanted attention.
Any one who has experienced their car monitors not being ready and has figured it out for your specific vehicle please post for others to see so we can help each other. Smog can be very stressful and a big rip off. its all about helping each other, God Bless.
Here is the GM drive cycle..
General Motors Driving Cycle
A complete driving cycle should perform diagnostics on all systems. A complete driving cycle can be done in under fifteen minutes.
To perform an OBDII Driving cycle do the following:
Cold Start. In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 50°C (122°F) and within 6°C (11°F) of the ambient air temperature at startup. Do not leave the key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.
Idle. The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire and if closed loop is achieved, Fuel Trim.
Accelerate. Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 88km/hr (55mph) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.
Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
Decelerate. Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift, touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 32km/hr (20 mph). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
Accelerate. Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 88-96 km/hr (55-60mph). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3.
Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.
Decelerate. This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears.
GOD IS AWESOME! DRIVE ON oldskool funk!
THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP. Thats what it is all about, everyone pitching in and helping each other right on Chris, God Bless.
Thank you as well... Would this apply to a 2016 Silverado with a 5.3l engine as well?
Would this drive cycle work on a 2002 Volkswagen Passat?
diving at 55mph for 5 minutes is nearly impossible here in los Angeles fwy :/
You are a blessing! My car would not pass emissions, even after almost $700 worth of repairs at the dealership and driving it 280 miles trying to get the readiness codes to reset.
I watched your video, followed your instructions exactly and the very next day, all three readiness codes were reset and I passed emissions!
Thank you so much for sharing. God bless you
i’m so sorry they scammed you like that babe, they tried charging me $500 and i walked out. They know how to fix it they just use your own ignorance against you…
This was what I posted for a Smog tech who said I was lying, putting fear, misinforming, and trying to hustle you all please read.
If you are legit then this does not pertain to you but if you are a RIP OFF SMOG TECH WHO TAKES ADVANTAGE OF PEOPLE WITH FAILED VEHICLES AND OVER CHARGE AND MISDIAGNOSE then this is for YOU to see. So I did this video to create fear, misinform and hustle people is what you are saying right? or could it be that I have been in the inside and seen the scandal and rip off tactics and schemes some Smog techs use to squeeze more money out of UNINFORMED CONSUMERS. I get nothing for making this video nor did I make it to receive anything I do it because I am sick and tired of seeing people get ripped off and its time to put the truth out there. I understand how you are upset and offended because you are a Smog Tech and I am exposing just a fraction of the RIP OFF that takes place in your trade. Your opinion is biased but my opinion comes from both sides since I worked with smog techs. The majority of people have no idea what a drive cycle even is AND YOU KNOW THAT. The Next time one of your customers fails for incomplete monitors and if your a TEST ONLY your going to refer them to another STAR certified shop and tell them you don,t know what the problem is because your not allowed to diagnose their car so you have to pass them off to get RIPPED OFF AGAIN at a STAR CERTIFIED repair station, after you do all that ASK THEM HOW THEY FEEL since you just TOOK and RIPPED THEM OFF when all you had to do was put your scanner on the car to see if the monitors were ready (which only takes minutes) but instead you run the car anyway with no integrity or concern for helping the consumer out. Now to the People: This is what takes place EVERY SINGLE DAY I have not even exposed the fake diagnostic and repair RIP OFF scam yet, video coming soon. It all comes down to the ALL MIGHTY DOLLAR and This is how and why the EPA, BAR, CARB, and other states created and came up with the CLEAN AIR RIP OFF ACT it is a MULTI BILLION DOLLAR INDUSTRY A YEAR and you the consumer are the prey. Now William ask your customers if they still like you and then realize HOW MANY CARS ARE UNREGISTERED AND SITTING BECAUSE OF THIS RIP OFF COST because some cannot afford a $1000 dollar CATALYTIC CONVERTER. And that is why I lie (as you say) to the people and misinform them. Dont letem foooolya Fight for whats right.
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***** yes if it does not light up at all when you turn the key to the run/on position it will fail for the light not turning on
RJ Boswell thanks for the info...I took care of it.
+oldskool funk thanks for this! wish I knew an honest smog mechanic...ugh! At least I know how to do a drive cycle now...Blessings.
+oldskool funk Great that you are doing this for the people. Not only will some mechanics take advantage of MIL/CEL a customer has even they can say crap for safety inspection that nothing to do with safety at all.
PUT SOME JB WELD EPOXY ON THE LEAK TO SEAL IT UP.
I just wanted to thank you for your time in making this video for us folk out here with the smog blues! Not only was it very personably done with concern for us, the customer, but you also took such great care to explain every step you were doing, and why, and repeated it over and over so that we really got it in our heads along with some confidence in the whole precedure! Mr,,,,,YOU ROCK!!! Thank you soooooooo much!!!! I can do this!
Thank you, thank you. For the info. 3 years and in the middle of the corona virus and my little tacoma 6 cylinder just won't register. I gave your cycle a try and pow. Wouldn't you know. Again thank you, thank you 2021 finally got my truck back
It is absolutely INSANE that we have to go through all this to get our cars to pass a test. My tester said emissions are good (and low), everything was great, except the computer itself was no doing it's self-check. How is that OUR FAULT??? I literally drive my car more to pass this test than I do all year. Ridiculous.
It is a f hate it 10 years later since he made this video in.here because of this crap it's insane...I see why alot of people just drive illegally smh
Hey everyone. I was so stressed out because my car failed the smog test initially after I cleared the codes. This literally saved my life. Although the evap wasn't ready but still passed. Thank you brother!
Good morning my brother in Christ!
Do you think that the non fouler trick would work for a po174 and po171 code?
Will my car pass if I have 1 incomplete monitor? All others are cleared but 1 (EGR system). I want to smog mine today, but am scared because I have 1 incomplete, everything else emissions wise passes tho.
@@Nada.yourbusiness In Arizona you can pass with one test incomplete.
I AM a Smog tech with 20+ years experience, for the most part what your saying is true. i fail a lot of smogs for incomplete monitors. and most the time its because the customer is trying to hide the check engine lamp concern. but for the most part if they just perform the drive cycle correctly they will PASS. also keep in mind that some of the monitored systems are whats call 2 cycle monitors and require that the drive cycle be performed twice
Right on for the input my man appreciate the knowledge about 2 cycle. I have to do drive cycles 3 or four times sometimes.
👍
Every vehicle 🚗 has different criteria for monitors to complete. It’s up to the driver to meet those specifications🤓. If it doesn’t complete its cause the pcm/ecm has registered a drivability issue..Its them dumb mechanics 🧰 who can’t diagnose correctly who steal money 💰 from naive customers. They make everyone else look 👀 like thieves. The Smog program works if u use it correctly. Ask questions. Get 🧾 s follow the 3 (C)s. Which are: Complaint: what the driver is concerned with. Cause: what causing the concern. Correction: what you did to correct the concern. God bless and ask questions and don’t give ur money away
You are absolutely right.
Ex- Southern California Smog Repair Tech.
Smog tech bastard
This is the most complete and informative video I've seen so far for this type of topic. You are number one.
I straight thought this was bullshit..... up until 2 hours ago. I took my car out, hopped on the freeway, did exactly 60-64 mph for 7 minutes, let it come to a complete stop on it's own, drove the street to the smog center..... passed. I just subbed. And this is in the year 2021.
did u use a scan tool?
@@SonStashu Yeah. Four different times, so I ended up wasting gas until I ran across this video. I think I drove damn near 400 miles trying to get it to reset too. 😐
"I don't like to see people get robbed." -- 13:38
You are the man!
Dont forget, the Evap one that is so hard to reset - always the very LAST one - at 27:45. There is a very important detail that is vital NOT to forget. DO NOT fill up the car all the way with gas, and don't drive the car for the test with less then 1/4 tank either! If you do EVAP not reset. Fuel level has be more then 1/4 full but less then 3/4 full! . Say the fuel level is ideal must be between 1/4 full and 2/3 full fuel level and you are golden. So a little over 1/2 tank and you are probably good for that part of test. The "Evap" will reset LAST but all things being equal WILL reset with OldSkool's directions here... but fuel level IS important, neither too much nor too little! .
Thanks for the additional info!!
The hard part for me is that the intake air temperature has to be under 90°, something that's not going to happen in Phoenix before my plates expire. Fortunately AZ allows *one* diag not ready.
If I run my drive cycle and finally get my OBD Scanner to show green, how long will have to take it to shop for emissions before the next cycle happens and computer runs selftest? For example I am afraid its green and suddenly right before the shop, it runs cycle and check engine light comes on? What is my time limit in this case?
You can google the obd-ii drive cyle for your manufacture. Example Ford obd-ii drive cycle or toyota obd-ii drive cycle.
James Wendte thank you for your comment it helped
After driving 1000 miles plus, my Toyota RAV4 2009 would not set the oxygen sensor and the catalyst monitors.
Very frustrated!
Then Tried this way and worked on the first time!!!!!!
And passed smog!
YAY! Thank you so very much!
Thank you so much man. this worked for my 1998 lincoln navigator after putting in 1000 miles and was about to give up..i did the 55 mph 5 min..and used an onramp at 6am in the morning..and the CAT is now COMPLETE!!!
Hey man, I've been trying to get my car to complete the cycles and everything I tried didn't work. Found your video, did everything you said and it cleared all the codes and passed smog. It works !! Thanks man, i really appreciate it.
I completed my drive cycle this morning (just one cycle), went to the inspection spot, prayed, drove in and PASSED! Thank you so much for sharing this video. Friendly FYI I did NOT use a scanner during my drive cycle. LIKED ✅ COMMENTED ✅ SUBSCRIBED ✅ God Bless you!
Thanks a lot for this video. I went thru emissions 3 times in the last 2 months. I watched this video and followed everything as you said. I went to emissions the same day and i finally past i can't believe it, I'm so happy. THANKS
I was quoted a 200 bucks to get my ford to pass smog.. followed your video and it worked perfectly! ! thanks for taking the time to make it.. saved me a bunch if cash..
mike F
In glad I found this video. I've been stuck on the evap cycle for three days now. I will do these steps. Thank you for the informative video.
Study the Evap drive cycle very thoroughly before you do it. It is a very stubborn task for many vehicles and requires detailed steps sometimes. Attack it my man.
Thank you brother I needed that I need my car no car no work no work no house no jamming May the best of things always happen to you for you and or with you
This worked for my truck saved me 100 bucks worth of paying under the table for smog test thanks man! God bless you
Yo.. I'm a smog technician. I like your video because it explains I/M monitor testing to common folks. I am that shop that informs his customers of what to do in these cases. Knowledge is key. I never "Rip" anyone off but I know some shops can take advantage of ignorance. Lol that Evap set mighty quick! Good job & God Bless
Oldschool besides being a natural teacher ya got morals. a thousand thanks. You teachin me to never clear the cars codes. First time I cleared the codes while waiting in line for the IL air test an first time the car ever failed. Lord will pay you 100 folds for sharin your knowledge
Thank you for taking your time and educating us car people so we know what to do before our smog test. This video will be saved for future use. Drive cycle ready.
So when u get in the city for stop and go. Are you using hand brake stil?
I LIKE THIS GUY! HE COULD BE A GREAT TEACHER TO TEACH PEOPLE THAT DONT KNOW THE BASIC. GOD BLESS YOU BROTHER. THEY NEED TO MAKE MORE VIDEOS LIKE THIS HE EXPLAINS HIS WORK IN DETAIL. 4 STAR RATING.
5 out of 5 stars!
This has been the most helpful video I have seen on getting the IM's ready. Thank you for posting it !
Daygo? The bridge you referring to is in Chula Vista off the 805 south toward TJ, imma use the same route too. I’m definitely doing this tomorrow morning. Thanks OG!
GM drive cycle
Autotap® OBDII Diagnostic Scanner
General Motors Driving Cycle
A complete driving cycle should perform diagnostics on all systems. A complete driving cycle can be done in under fifteen minutes.
To perform an OBDII Driving cycle do the following:
Cold Start. In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 50°C (122°F) and within 6°C (11°F) of the ambient air temperature at startup. Do not leave the key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.
Idle. The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire and if closed loop is achieved, Fuel Trim.
Accelerate. Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 88km/hr (55mph) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.
Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
Decelerate. Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift, touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 32km/hr (20 mph). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
Accelerate. Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 88-96 km/hr (55-60mph). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3.
Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.
Decelerate. This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift g
Thanks George K we appreciate your contribution to this troubling task that many people have no idea about, right on God Bless.
The gas tank has to be between 1/4 and 3/4 for the evap solenoid to cycle, and pass that monitor test
How do you do this without putting other motorists in danger or getting pulled over????
I just failed yesterday so I will be trying this. The tech told us to drive on freeway 70 to 80 miles and come back. Ours had pass on everything but Not Ready on smoke check and Evaporative. Thank you for helping everyone. I am a 75 year old woman and I feel good about your method.🌹♥️🙏🏾
Thank you for this video. Though i do not live in the US but in Mexico, emissions testing here have changed. And this certainly came in handy as many cars fail the tests in Mexico City.
Also so far 295 smog techs disliked this video
I always find myself looking for this post every two years to help my Jeep pass. His technique is the most accurate out of all the posts I have reviewed and tried. Keep in mind California does not require the EVAP monitor to be ready. Much love my brother!
Cool video. Helped me understand why my car failed due to "not ready" catalyst. So I had a test pipe on my car, which left me with a P0420 code and I forgot to erase it when I put the catalytic converter back on, so naturally the sensors weren't "ready". After watching this vid I cleared the codes, took it for a spin, and that didn't help. So the service manual for my Acura said to do the idle relearn procedure (shut off radio and AC, park, keep at 3k RPM till the radiator fans kick in, then idle for 5 mins) then driving 55pmh for 2 mins, then coast for a few seconds, then 55mph for 20 mins. I did everything except for the 55 mph @ 20 mins and I was able to get the O2S and Catalyst showing as "ready", awesome! Now I need to do the 20 min drive cause the EVAP is still showing "not ready". ...I did the idle relearn procedure again, went on freeway and did the 20 mins @ 55mph, then took some streets back home and coasted a few times and EVAP is now Ready, wooo hooo! Time to get this car smogged!
This man knows his stuff!
I was having a problem with my Catalytic converter+ sensor on my '02 Solara. I could not get it to be "smog ready" before the "Check engine light" came on. I followed the mans instruction and it worked like a charm. I passed.
god bless this man, Im so appreciative of him saving me a lot of money and not to mention a lot of stress, energy and fatigue that Im going to send him $40. Thanks, oldskool.
Thank you for your comment Adwaye. No worries about the money brother. I do this from the heart to help people. I know how painful smog is for everybody and I cant stand how much of a rip off it is. Just knowing my videos can help others is my reward, Glad the Video helped you out, God Bless.
Very inspirational and informative lesson here. I am now capable and knowledge to pass smog. Thank you .
Thank you man! I had seen your video about 1 year ago. When my Chrysler Pacifica would not pass smog. It worked then. Now I had my Genesis that could not pass due to the O2 censor not being ready. I drove it for 300 miles and it was still not ready. I’m glad I remembered your video listen to it while I was driving the car. Followed it to the exact instruction, finally the O2censored is ready. My recommendation to all is drive it at night cause there is less traffic and it’s easier to keep it at 60mph and if you have cruise control even better.
It’s a great and reliable video. Was facing this kinda issue back then with my emission test so I had to look for a way, which was how I came across Stray Admin who has got years in experience of helping lots of citizens pass they’re Smog test too.
All I had to do was just to hit the TH-cam search icon and type in Stray Administration, he popped right after.
This video just saved my butt! I drive a Chrysler Pacifica and had 2 monitors not ready after replacing a catalytic converter , alternator, and EGR valve. We spent many miles trying to get all the monitors ready for smog. I found this video and did exact steps...exact route too since I live in the same area! The 2 remaining monitors cleared and the van passed smog. Thanks for the tip and I will tell all my friends about this cycle.
This is the drive cycle process to get the I/M Monitors to complete
oldskool funk
You did an awsome job man !!
i know this video is old but i want to thank you for your help. i had an older car that i rarely drive that needed to be smogged but the battery had to be replaced. i should have waited but the mechanic played on my ignorance. he actually told me to have the smog guys reset my monitors 😠. i did the drive cycle right after watching your video and MY MONITORS WERE RE SET. it felt like a weight lifted off of me. lesson learned...NEVER DISCONNECT A BATTERY BEFORE A SMOG!!! GOD BLESS YOU!!!!
Thanks bro for making this video. I failed emissions test the other day and they told me I had to drive 100 miles under 60 mph, and that didn't work. So now I'm about to try this and hopefully it works. I have a 07 Tahoe so I looked up the GM Drive Cycle and hopefully it works. Also i got a little more from this video as well about my faith in my works and keeping God first. May God Bless You my brother in Christ for helping others.
Right on Andre, Its all up to the drive cycle from here on for your car, plan it out, be safe driving, use your hazards, God Bless brother Jesus Christ, first.
after watching this vid and seeing the chevy drive cycle... jebus... gonna go out to the middle of nowhere and get this nonsense done... ugh
Drove the car around for 1200 Miles and could not get the O2 and heat 02 to pass. Went to the gas station 10 times and he just told me to keep on driving. Then I saw your video and followed what you did to the T. Went this morning and it passed inspection thank you very much you’re a good man.
YO, IT WORKED !!! They had me driving 50 miles ... 3 different times... got to thinking, got to be a better way.. Watched your video and did just like you said... Thanks Man !!!
Hey Oldskool funk, thanks to your video on how to do a (drive cycle), I was able to pass my 2002 Ford Ranger and I didn't even need the OBDII scanner. You saved me big time.
God bless my brother
Thank you for giving us your know how in the smog field. I been ripped off before. I appreciate you thinking about other people. If we only care about ourselves , what reward is in that?
This sounded absolutely silly to me at first. Except it actually worked!
I drove the car on the highway for 300 miles, didn't work. Did 3000 rpm's for 3 minutes, didn't work.
To be more precise, do a search for your car model and the words 'Drive Cycle'. Each car make has different driving actions that the computer is looking for.
Thank you so much for this video oldskool funk! You gave my spare car 2 years more life (smog).
Forgot to mention, I used Cataclean first to clean the catalytic converter. The check engine light didn't go away by itself after driving 60 miles, so I had to clear the codes with the scanner.
Luckily the CEL didn't come back on again before your Drive Cycle method worked.
Also, I recommend doing the Drive Cycle at night. For one, there are way less cars on the road, and the other, less chance your expired tags will be noticed by unwanted eyes. :)
Thanks for posting this I have a 2006 Honda Civic and it failed because My evap and catalytic converter I/M were not ready after looking at your video, This gave me a good Idea on how to get it done. I tried 3 times and they would not read. But after seeing this video I looked at manual for my car and the emissions page had axactly how to do it for my car. I woke up this morning after letting my car sit. I turn the key for 20 seconds and then started the car Revved to 2000 RPMs for 3 min. I drove to work between 50 and 60 miles and on the ramps I let it coast without touching the brake, I got to work turned the car off for a half an hour. when I checked all of the I/M sensors were ready. I took to Inspection and it passed with flying colors. Also almost forgot to mention if you don't have a scanner. Turn the key to II wait 20 seconds the check engine light will blink 5 times if the sensors are not ready, Once the sensors are ready when you turn the key it will turn off. This mean they are ready and you have completed your drive cycle
Thanks for posting this
David Robles Right on that makes my day when I hear this kind of news and I am very serious. Smog is a big hassle and a rip off. It can be a nightmare for many people I am diagnosing a smog issue right now that is a challenge but I never stop pushin forward and will figure it out. I did not know about the check engine light letting you know when the monitors are ready on a 2006 Civic. I just learned something new and will add that to my next how to beat the smog video lol. Thank you for taking the time to post David I appreciate it very much and congrats on getting rid of the headache until the next smog lol J/k. Keep your head up God Bless.
Three years later and this video & comment are so helpful💜 many thanks
damn, bro! you saved me so much money and nerves. after driving cycles for 400 miles i tried what you recommend. Used hand break. 10 mins after all monitors are good. You are a MAN!
Amen bro! I just watched a bunch of your videos (subcribed), and have to say your a very knowledgeable guy.. But more importantly I have to compliment you on your integrity, honor and faith.. I flip cars also and I'm happy to see another Christian brother doing the same and taking care of people at the same time. It's people like us who through Christ can shine some light to the world, even if it's just easing there mind when they buy our used cars, knowing we're not trying to rip them off. Keep up the good work and God bless!
Amen Superado STAY STRONG out there don't let nothing break your faith in Jesus brother. I got a car flipping video coming out pretty soon on how I do it step by step also, keep your head up God Bless Soulja.
Thanks brother
L02a+
That’s why I fix my cars myself I don’t trust mechanics. Nowadays there’s a lot of info on the web because of people like you which I really appreciate. 96 Nissan 200sx fix the codes and now cat and o2 not ready.
The easiest and fastest way to complete the drive cycles and get the monitors ready that I have ever found is the following:
#1. Fully warm up the engine, then drive on the highway/interstate at normal interstate speed ( without stopping ) using cruise control for 15 to 20 minutes. This will test everything except for half of the evap system. Many of the tests can not be run at low engine speed or if you are accelerating with much throttle. This is why cruise control helps so much. It maintains a nominal engine speed, under load, at a constant speed while the engine is fully warmed up. This is the perfect condition that almost all tests will run at. If you don't have cruise control, just keep the throttle and speed as steady as you can manually.
#2. Park the car, turn it off and let it fully cool down for 1 to 1.5 hours ( depending on how hot it is outside ). This runs the other half of the evap test which only happens when the car is turned off and cooling down. It watches the pressure in the gas tank to see if it falls when it cools down. Some cars also have electric vacuum/pressure pumps the gets activated as the car is cooling down.
Perform these steps exactly two.
Why twice?
There are 2 classes of OBDII codes, class A and class B.
Class A codes will set immediately or after only 1 drive cycle.
Class B codes will only set after being successfully tested on 2 drives cycles. Notice the word "successfully". If the proper conditions are not present during a drive cycle, the test won't run. This is why many people have to perform lots and lots of drive cycles to get the tests to complete. They simply don't know or understand how to create the conditions required for the tests to be successfully run.
Once you know how, it's very easy! Anyone can do it.
does the drive time to the highway factor? takes me 10 mins to get on it.
No, it doesn't matter. For additional information check out page 25 of this document about the CARB standard: www.lbcc.edu/attc/documents/OBD2.pdf
I hope this works and I believe it will from what I have researched. A great big THANKS!!!
The document is no longer present at that link. Is there another source for the info?
Thanks bro, well done!! I appreciate "keep the hazards on" smart
You da man!! Love you my brother 💖
THIS GUY IS COOL AS HELL HE TAKES THE TIME TO PROVE HIS POINT WHICH IS TRUE : )
I have been driving cars to set monitors for a few years now. I agree with most of what you say, but using the emergency brake to stop the car on a busy road isn't a good idea. The cars behind you won't notice you stopping because the brake lights won't light up, and you may get hit, same applies to just "coasting" to a stop. Also, to help run EVAP, make sure you half between 3/4 and 1/4 of a tank of fuel. On most cars, a little above half works well.
Emission test relying solely on OBD2 monitors has added stress to car owners whose OBD2 monitors have shown to be not ready when their cars are taken to the emission test centers. Now, they have to perform all kinds of procedures, which are difficult to complete (maybe not to an expert), to get the monitors ready. If the monitors are not ready, let's say just couple of them, car owners should have the option to get their cars tested through I/M 240 dynamometer or another test which truly measures the pollutants coming from the car's emission. Local governments who require emission test and emission test centers opted not to do this anymore for cars equipped with OBD2 technology. I'm not exactly sure why they resorted to that, maybe because it takes longer or the equipment required for I/M240 are way too expensive to purchase and to maintain. Emission test is no longer an emission test if the only option is testing OBD2 monitors. It should be called emission monitors test or test for a car's emission technology but it should no longer be called emission test per se. OBD2 testing is efficient and clean, yes, but give the car owners an option to get the pollutants coming from their cars' emission actually tested through I/M 240 (or another method that is truly testing emission and not the car's technology) when their OBD monitors are showing not ready especially if they are not throwing any codes.
The procedure below worked on my 2014 Honda Accord.
Note: I found it on the web.
Here is a typical Honda Accord drive cycle. Driving your Honda Accord in the manner below should make the required Emission Monitors "Ready". Before you start the Drive Cycle make sure your Honda Accord's fuel level is between 1/4 and 3/4, otherwise the EVAP test won't run. Make sure to obey all traffic laws while performing the drive cycle.
1. Begin by idling the engine while 2 1/2 minutes. Next idle for another 2 1/2 minutes with the A/C compressor and rear defroster on and while the transmission is in Drive (D); only of automatic transmission. This part of the drive cycle checks the oxygen sensor heater circuits, air pump and EVAP purge system.
2. Turn the A/C compressor off and rear window defroster off and accelerate to 55 mph at half throttle. During this step the OBDII system checks for ignition misfire, fuel trim and EVAP canister purge.
3. Hold at a steady state speed of 55 mph for 3 minutes. The computer will now be testing the EGR system, air injection pump, O2 sensors and canister purge.
4. Decelerate to 20 mph without braking (or depressing the clutch). Once again the computer system will check EGR and purge functions.
5. Accelerate back to 55 to 60 mph at half throttle. During this step the OBDII system will look for misfires, fuel trim and EVAP purge.
6. Hold at a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for 5 minutes. Catalytic converter efficiency, EGR flow, ignition misfire, fuel trim, EVAP system and oxygen sensors operation will now be checked.
7. Decelerate to a stop without braking (or depressing clutch). The OBDII system will complete the drive cycle at this point.
We recommend completing this drive cycle at least twice in order to ensure all required parameters have been met.
Thanks for the help. It help me on a 2010 Mazda CX-7, and evap cod. P0456,p0442. This really work! I did it in 20 min drive.
That is a very good made, simple to understand introduction on how to clear all I/M in most cases. My old lady had the battery disconnected for about 15 sec. , enough to wipe out all I/M's for the smog test. After your video followed your procedure and cleared all I/M's and passed the smog test. Thanks Bro and God bless
This is the drive cycle for Code P1000 Go get it and attack the problem
Ford P1000: OBDII Monitor Testing Not Complete
Jaguar P1000: Engine control module (ECM) - internal error
Kia P1000: System diagnosis incomplete
Land Rover P1000: Engine control module (ECM) memory erased - no codes stored
Mazda P1000: OBDII Drive Cycle Malfunction
Read more at: www.obd-codes.com/p1000
Copyright © OBD-Codes.com
OBDII Monitor
Exercised
Drive Cycle Procedure
Purpose of
Drive Cycle Procedure
Drive Cycle
Preparation 1. Install scan tool. Turn key on with the engine off. Cycle key off, then on. Select appropriate Vehicle & Engine qualifier. Clear all DTC's/ Perform a PCM Reset. Bypasses engine soak timer. Resets OBDII Monitor status.
2. Begin to monitor the following PIDs: ECT, EVAPDC, FLI (if available) and TP MODE.
Start vehicle WITHOUT returning to Key Off.
3. Idle vehicle for 15 seconds. Drive at 64 Km/h (40 MPH) until ECT is at least 76.7°C (170° F).
Prep for Monitor Entry 4. Is IAT within 4.4 to 37.8°C (40 to 100° F)? If Not, complete the following steps but, note that step 14 will be required to "bypass " the Evap monitor and clear the P1000. Engine warm-up and provide IAT input to the PCM.
HEGO 5. Cruise at 64 Km/h (40 MPH) for up to 4 minutes. Executes the HEGO monitor.
EVAP 6. Cruise at 72 to 104 Km/h (45 to 65 MPH) for 10 minutes (avoid sharp turns and hills) Note, to initiate the monitor: TP MODE should =PT, EVAPDC must be >75%, and FLI must be between 15 and 85% Executes the EVAP Monitor (If IAT is within 4.4 to 37.8° (40 to 100°F))
Catalyst 7. Drive in stop and go traffic conditions. Include five different constant cruise speeds, ranging from 40 to 72 Km/h (25 to 45 MPH) over a 10 minute period. Executes the Catalyst Monitor.
EGR 8. From a stop, accelerate to 72 Km/h (45 MPH) at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. Repeat 3 times. Executes the EGR Monitor.
SEC AIR/CCM (Engine) 9. Bring the vehicle to a stop. Idle with transmission in drive (neutral for M/T) for 2 minutes. Executes the ISC portion of the CCM.
CCM (Trans) 10. For M/T, accelerate from 0 to 80 Km/h (o to 50 MPH), continue to step 11. For A/T, from a stop and in overdrive, moderately accelerate to 80 Km/h (50 MPH) and cruise for at least 15 seconds. Stop vehicle and repeat without overdrive to 64 Km/h (40 MPH) cruising for at least 30 seconds. While at 64 Km/h (40 MPH) , activate overdrive and accelerate to 80 Km/h (50 MPH) and cruise for at least 15 seconds. Stop for at least 20 seconds and repeat step 10 five times. Executes the transmission portion of the CCM.
Misfire & Fuel Monitors 11. From a stop, accelerate to 104 Km/h (65 MPH). Decelerate at closed throttle until 64 Km/h (40 MPH) (no brakes). Repeat this 3 times. Allows learning for the misfire monitor.
Readiness Check 12. Access the ON-Board System Readiness (OBDII monitor status) function on the scan tool. Determine whether all non-continuous monitors have completed. If not, go to step 13. Determines if any monitor has not completed.
Pending Code Check and Evap Monitor "Bypass" Check 13. With the scan tool, check for pending codes. Conduct normal repair procedures for any pending code concern. Otherwise, rerun any incomplete monitor.
Note: if the EVAP monitor is not complete AND IAT was out of the 4.4 to 37.8° C (40 to 100° F) temperature range in step #4, or the altitude is over 2438 m. (8000 ft.), the Evap "bypass" procedure must be followed.
Proceed to step 14. Determines if a pending code is preventing the clearing of P1000.
Evap Monitor "Bypass" 14. Park vehicle for a minimum of 8 hours. Repeat steps 2 through 12. DO NOT REPEAT STEP 1. Allow the "bypass" counter to increment to two.
What Scan tool is that?
Atron CP9185 if you buy any scanner make sure it has live data
I have the catalyst obdII reading as not ready for 2004 kia spectra. Someone at auto zone removed my battery to help me put in my headlight over two months ago. I didn't realize what that actually does when the batteries disconnected. Would it still read not ready after all this time & Do I have to complete all these steps to execute the catalyst monitor or 1-3 & step 7?
I been a smog tech in cal for 15 years. What oldskool did was right to set the monitors on most cars.I just want to add a few things he didnt mention even though he did them right. Its very important that you start your car when it is completely cold and once it is started just let it idle, DO NOT drive the car for 3 or 4 minutes.If the car isnt cold or if it is cold and you drive away with out it idling for a few minutes you can drive it all day and you will never set the evap monitor on most cars.This only applies to the evap monitor.
I really appreciate you, thank you for taking so much time sharing this! And you're right.. the smog technician advised me to add miles due to my reset system. But he never elaborated on what/why specifics.
I took so many notes that you gave ( _and was holding my breath for you during the lack of registration chat, and then that cop cruising by_ 😂), and now I need to see what applies to my Jeep. Be blessed. 💖
Just followed your instructions and they finally cleared all my IM codes! 🙌🏽 Several hundreds of miles and finally your instructions did the trick for my 2004 Acura TSX. Thank you!
Thanks for the great video, and a nice job to have to drive around San Diego, though maintaining 55-65 mph is like a scene from the movie "Speed". Good you don't have to try that on the 405 in West L.A.
The CA smog rules are quite complicated, and most driver's are fairly clueless. Don't the "monitors" apply only to ~2002+ vehicles? I read that 2005+ can have only 1 monitor "incomplete", whereas earlier allowed 3. But, no easier for my 1996 because it requires the costlier STAR test, while new cars get a free ride for ~5 years, like another bone ripped from the poor and thrown to the rich.
Lol…no joke. I gotta do this in OC today and I have no clue where I can pull off a steady 55mph. And in a 96 4Runner of course . 😳
I drove for over 700+ miles and could not get it to pass smog. I saw your video and I did exactly as u described and first try it cleared all my codes and made my truck pass smog.
Thanks a hole bunch you saved me a butt load of money.... thanks....
I had p0420 code so I cleared the codes and what you said and it worked perfectly !! Thank you so much man . You just saved me 600$ . Much love . God bless .
Did u fixed the issue first n then cleared it?
@@alanchanthavisouk8557 I was able to do this too with a P0420 code in my Nissan without fixing anything, I just erased the check engine light did the drive cycle and as soon as my I/M monitors turned green took it straight to get smog and passed... not even 20 minutes after passing the smog the check engine light came back on, so be ready to take it to the smog asap after doing this
Rule of thumb that seems to work is driving normally until temp guage is half way (goes into O2 closed loop) for about 15min, then drive some highway miles. (At least past 45MPH.) If you take it to emissions after getting the car warmed up, then it usually goes through ok. Of course this varies per car, but seems pretty consistent on GM 3400 V6. Braking normally doesn't seem to bother it at all, but my car has no problems with vacuum going to the brake, fuel system is airtight, and evap gets enough vacuum to work as it should. (If normal braking causes a fail, it's likely something wrong with a coast-down vacuum condition affecting the emissions stuff.)
+oldskool funk- many thanks for sharing these great tips! I bought the same Actron scanner and used it to save lots of time and money to pass smog today! In fact, the OBD codes on the Actron scanner matched the smog station computers exactly. Once I finished a few more drive cycles similar to what you posted in the video (BMW in my case has own drive cycle method), then I was able to pass with flying colors! I recommend the Actron Elite scanner it is the best compared to others on the market.
I just did this on my 2004 Mazdaspeed Miata and it worked beautifully! The Catalyst and EGR passed after the highway run. The evap test passed after a few minutes of stop and go at 35mph.
This is a blessing since I obtained the official instructions from Mazda to run a drive cycle on my model car and it's far more complicated than your instructions.
Congrats on passing your smog. I am in the process of finishing a drive cycle for a 96 Civic and its driving me nuts, I might have to change the Catalytic Converter but will not know until tomorrow. Ya some of the drive cycle modes are harder than others you just need to hunt it down. Nothing like passing the dreaded rip off smog test huh? lol.
Bro thank you so much I did this cleared all my monitors and I had 4 engine codes just cleared it did what you said and I passed I'm so fucking happy thank you so much man!
ayeeeee
Did you fix the codes before clearing them? I might clear mind without fixing it and taking it in for emissions
Ricer Miata dude u jus dropped the f-bomb on a Christian channel 😂😂 love ur vids btw
@@wordlife_97 Did it work?
Amber Fillmore Nope. I cleared it and the guy knew I cleared the codes because the car has codes that need to warm up before taking it for emissions. I eventually found the problem but sold it and bought a mustang.
Just wanted to thank you for your help, I followed the steps in your video and was able to reset and pass the smog test. I was about to get rid of my 2000 Yukon but watched your video and took care of that asap. I am truly grateful. God Bless
Thanks for your great video. I drove my car for over a thousand miles and the Catalyst on the OBDII was not complete when I took it to get smogged. I watched your video and followed your instructions and took it back and it passed. Thanks for your help, You're the Best!
Failed in CAT emission test. Followed your instructions. Cleared and passed the emission test today 01/19/22. Thanks for your well explained video.
My has a P0420 code And my Check engine light came on after I did the drive cycle T_T
@@ameemetta2790 , it could be faulty 02 sensor,fuel injector,ECM, Spark plug or dirty Air filter.
@@kawaiicreatures8663 ... thank you .
Currently going through this BS. On a manual car do I leave it in gear when coasting to a stop or do I put it in neutral? Thanks for making this vid, it has helped me realize that I don't need to drive it around till the monitor reads ready, like the tech said.
I have everything ready except the Catalyst.
Thanks Sir! Been putting off smog due to knowing IM monitors not yet ready but you really made it easy and simple in under an hour and with patience in posting this! I salute You!!!!!
I was looking for instructions on how to do the driving cycle for my car and tought all I need is a good route to drive and do the cycle , after a couple minutes of watching the video I realized that 805 freeway is just by were I live in Chula Vista.
I had a clutch rebuilt and right now I am going through this B.S. in California! Thank you for posting this. I failed because the OBD failed but everything else passed with flying colors. The Tech said the computer was reset. Told me to drive 400 miles. I told he is fing high to waste all that gas. Now I know what to do. Thank you sir ! Now know how to reset everything. Just sucks I have a fresh full tank of gas.
You're a good man . I'll be trying this out tomorrow . I'll keep it posted . I have a 03 Honda Accord v6.
Did it work
Thanks oldskool funk. Great video! I have a 2007 Mazda 3 that wasn't passing California smog. I found this Drive Cycle on a Mazda site. I did it this morning (6 a.m. on I-5 a little scary so be careful) and Voila! I took it back and it passed. I'm reprinting it here. Hope it helps someone else.
"Emission monitors, including the one for the catalytic converter, are set to ready by a condition based drive cycle, not by how many miles you drive it.
Below is the drive cycle to perform. You have to do it exactly as described in the order described.
Ensure that the fuel tank is between 1/4 and 3/4 full.
Start cold (below 86°F /30°C) and warm up until engine coolant temperature is at least 160° F (typically requires at least one minute; up to 3 minutes).
Accelerate to 40-55 MPH at 25% throttle and maintain speed for five minutes.
Decelerate without using the brake (coast down) to 20 MPH or less, then stop the vehicle. Allow the engine to idle for 10 seconds, turn the key off, and wait one minute.
Restart and accelerate to 40-55 MPH at 25% throttle and maintain speed for two minutes.
Decelerate without using the brake [or the clutch!] by coasting down to 20 MPH or less, then stop the vehicle. Allow the engine to idle for 10 seconds, turn the key off, and wait one minute.
If they monitors do not set as ready after doing the above drive cycles, either there is a low voltage condition to the computer(usually a slightly weak battery), or the catalytic converter is marginal in performance and needs to be replaced."
ed burkhardt Congratulations on passing the dreaded rip off smog lol. What a relief huh? Im working on a car that failed right now and one more right after that, Smog is brutal at times lol. Thank you so much for posting your vehicles drive cycle we appreciate it very much its all about helping each other and keeping the Gov from digging to deep in our pockets, Keep your head up Ed.
You're awesome!! Thank you for giving back! God bless you.
God bless brother, Im over watching for a 2nd time, and I can feel ur grace and kindness in what u do. And so, in such a simple video, u touch people by just witnessing WHOM, real work for, thanks, God prosper you more...
You drove by my house . I thought you were in l. A not San Diego . Sending love thanks for the info
This works! It did it last night because there's less traffic at night. My Chrysler Pacifica 2006 passed smog. I got on the freeway and put it on cruise control over 55MPH drove for 5+ minutes than drove the street for 20 minutes both the CAT an O2 sensor reset. Thank you for posting it. FYI
Before I drove the car over 200 miles and took it to the smog place and they kept telling me the monitors where not ready. Did this and it works.
Yeah that was happened with my car. I ended up buying a Bluetooth OBD2 scanner and trying out this and got it all to work just fine.
Worked for my 96 nissan altima, thanks alot OLDSKOOL
Worked for my 98 Volvo s70!! Was able to pass emissions! The information is VERY VERY much APPRECIATED. Thank you.
Please help! I'm completely lost. I see you oldskool funk, live near me. I've now taken my 2003 ford taurus to 2 smog places, driven freeways and stop & go, still monitors are not ready. Today, 5-19-2015 smog place says one of my cylinders is misfiring, waited all day for a call, then half-hour before they closed I called them, oh, drive it on the freeway (again) then see if monitors are ready, if not then we'll start replacing fuel injector, etc. They said, they couldn't locate the problem bc not familiar with the history of my car, this is RIDICULOUS. I don't know if getting the device you have would matter or not, because I cannot follow everything you say and do. I'm completely confused, but I do know when I'm being ripped off by this so called Smog check new law. I don't have a lot of money and quite frankly don't know a thing about cars. Please help!! (I do attend church weekly and believe in being honest, God lives)
Justelle's Life sorry to hear this , hope u eventually fixed ur problem
Thanks for sharing the knowledge! I got an Actron CP9575 earlier this year but only understood how to reference the more obvious error codes, etc.. I'm gonna apply this to my current maintenance. The 9575 also reads live data to a fairly extensive amount and now i can finally utilize a bunch of the other info that i've been curious but clueless about. Your safety and procedure pointers are also appreciated. The real time approach is cool for confirmation of what you're explaining and helps it all make clear sense. Awesome!
Thank you, Thank you, Thank you! I did exactly what you said and it worked. My smog failed a few days ago and I was already 2 days overdue for my new tags. My car sits quite a bit so jumping the battery over and over kept restarting the codes. I was able to pass this morning and get my car registered. Thank you again. It really works. I have proof! I truly appreciate you for posting this information!!! God Bless!
@Standing Man UWYouthOrg a generation silence inheritance like 1989 China. The Venus Project for the youth, free the old from the broke(n) carbon farmed slave populated infrastructure proven unsustainable on a Titanic ride under cloud. Money and it's capitalistic poisoning has to stop as what sustains us momentarily is fake and will kill us.
Thanks for taking us on the drive to show exactly how it's done. Info is appreciated.
oldskool u speak true.
the cars that need repairs are the one with smoke coming out the exhaust. all other cars dont need repairs for exhaust air. cars are more clean than before 1995 and most of the cars before 95 are also clean. now the cars that are poluting the most from before 95 are becoming exempt from smog. when it should be the newer cars that should be exempt from smog test, they run cleaner and more efficent.
we the mechanics and technitions shouldnt fear police when out on the street testing a car. we are the ones who they come to to fix their cars.
keep doing what u do oldskool.
"handleit"
Highway Patrol is watching Bro, 😂 bcoz he has the same problem on his car 😅. Good job man!
this video is a BLESSING!! is everything the same to standard vehicle??
I own a 2001 Hyundai Sonata and I had two codes pending but no check light (P0128, P1167). What had happened was that the check light came on but then went off while driving, so I never cleared the check engine light. The car's computer did this all on its own. But anway, I scanned for codes and had no fault codes but I had 2 codes pending. I erased the codes with a scanner and had to deal with getting the monitors ready. All monitors except for the catalyst were ready within 3 days and I still had no codes. The last monitor was the catalyst monitor and it was a big problem. After driving over 250 miles, it was still not ready for smog. This was the only monitor I had not ready.
In the state of California (other states could be slightly different) there was a time not long ago when you could have any one monitor not ready for smog on a 2000 or newer car. But changes were made, and now the only one monitor that does not have to be ready is the evap. If the evap is ready, then all monitors have to be ready on a 2000 or newer. (Except for new cars up to 6 years old which do not require a smog check anymore). The good news is that these cars no longer need to be placed on a dyno which checks for hydrocarbons, CO2, and Nitrogen Oxide levels coming out of the tailpipe; however, cars 1999 or older will have to go through this check on a dyno.
I did have a mechanic tell me to fill up with premium gas and drive it hard (70mph+) on the freeway for at least 10 minutes which will help with reducing the hydrocarbons. Also, on a 1996 through 1999 car, you use to be allowed two monitors not ready, now it is one.
Anyway, I drove my car on the highway and in the city following your instruction as in this video. It didn't work the first time so I did it again, only I did it for 10 minutes. Afterwards, I drove through the city, stopped at traffic lights and stop signs and after arriving home, my catalyst monitor finally cleared. I did this on a Sunday, so I couldn't go to smog right away. Today, which is Monday, I got down to the smog check and I passed my smog. That's right, I passed that bad boy......yes!
I would advise anyone getting a smog to go to a place that only does smog. Even if you go to a STAR station, if they are also a repair facility, they might come up with some BS about how you need this or that before they do the smog test. They might lie by saying that you will most likely fail smog if you don't change out this or that right now. But a test only smog facility cannot sell you anything because all they do is smog and you won't have to deal with the scams.
Also, the drive cycle for the Hyundai Sonata is below. Just be aware that this cycle is for most Hyundai cars with a few exceptions.
ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/indytech/2012-03-18_000622_web_posting_non-delphi_drive_cycle.pdf
Great job in staying persistent. That is what it takes sometimes. You must handle that smog test and be very aggressive . I smog cars all the time and it really takes a toll on me sometimes. To who ever reads this the next time you try to complete your monitors and your having a hard time. Get back on the freeway, erase the codes while driving and keep doing it until they start to clear. I dont wait anymore. I keep erasing the codes until its handled. Thank you for your input and the drive cycle for your vehicle it really helps us all out because the smog test is very dreadful at times. Keep your head up in 2019 and stay standing and bold like a Lion. God is good all the time.
Thanks for everything. I also wanted to mention that I used your route on 805 south to Palm Avenue. I recognized the route you took because I use to live in Chula Vista; I now live in National City.
After it didn't clear the first time, I took a different route. I took the 5 north near the border in San Ysidro. There was no traffic on 5 north since all the traffic was crammed on the Mexico side trying to get to the US. I took this highway up to the Plaza Blvd exit in National City. Plaza exit is downhill, but the slope is not that bad. But what's good about it, is there are no stop signs or traffic lights at the bottom of the hill. You also have the option of turning onto two residential streets or just coasting straight down Plaza. The first traffic light is two blocks away from the bottom of the exit hill. There are no stop signs before you reach this light.
The only bad thing I see about doing the drive cycle is for cars that have an emergency foot brake, not a hand brake. In this case, I would suggest using the gearshift into 2nd gear, then low gear. What do you think?
UPDATE: I just found out today that starting on January 1, 2019, there will be new smog rules (California Only). Drivers will not need to smog their cars if they have a car that is eight years old or newer. For the first six years, the abatement fee of $20 remains unchanged. For the last two years, owners will pay an annual $25 smog abatement fee.
Thank you for your great videos, they are very helpful and saves you $$$. Thanks again brother.
omg thank you. i knew this was a gamble but it worked for me and you just saved me so much money and bought me some more time. i had a check engine light on with code p770 shift solenoid e malfunction, but my trans was running fine and the mechanic told me it would cost anywhere from $500-1500! that's half the value of my car and i could not justify spending that much. first, i pulled the emf fuse out for a minute, then did the drive cycle just as you said, then added some oil and used carb cleaner on throttle body, filled tank up halfway, filled tires with air and took it directly to the smog station when the light didn't come back on. it passed! thank you!
GOD BLESS !! PUT JESUS CHRIST FIRST!! FREE INFO. THANK YOU BRO FOR YOUR HELP!!
I agree!
wow I did this without using an action or any code reader. I just disconnected the battery at a gas station bye a freeway on ramp made sure I didn't hit the breaks just used my E-break got on the freeway and keeped it between 35 and 55 miles an hour for 5 minutes then exited useing the break four at least 5 stop lights or 5 minutes. no more check engine light and went straight to the smog station. passed with flying colors. vwryt happy now great idea good job bro. for the video you posted.
same thing woulda happened if you just drove normally too ;) lol
true but the scanner is nice tool for long term diagnosis with paying $$$ to shop just to look at check engine light. BUT I drove normally and still would not fix issue. I had to complete BMW drive cycles to get I/M ready state several times this week almost 200 miles!
"lol" you obviously have no experience with readiness tests not starting/finishing. MANY cars literally take over a thousand miles of "regular" driving until all tests clear if you do not drive in the vehicles specific drive cycles multiple times, including letting the car sit in between cycles overnight to get complete cold starts.
SUPEROBSCUREBEATS actually theyre programed to run asap under "normal" driving. If they're not running for someone for 1000 miles u are very far into "abnormal" conditions.
And i do have plenty of experience with obd2 (but yes like u said.. Not much with "drive cycle problems" if everything is working properly and u have patience u can avoid driving around like an idiot (or wasting time on the dyno.)
My comment is directed towards the 99% of people reading this.. I repeat u don't need to worry about drive cycles. Theyre designed to be invisible and automatic (thats what makes them an effective self check)
Well the good thing is having this code reader is very helpful for troubleshooting issues and pro active maintenance at low cost besides just smog pass tests.