Test and Fix Bad Oxygen Sensor W/ Cheap OBD2 Scan Tool!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
- Is your car running rough? Has you MPG gone down? Maybe you know you have a bad o2 sensor but you don't know what to do next.
In this video, you will learn how to test your oxygen sensors with three different types of OBD2 Scan tools, how to locate a faulty sensor and quickly replace it!
As always please take a moment to subscribe to our channel so we can keep helping folks save money on costly car repairs. Thank you for watching!
Affordable Scan Tool w/ Live Data and graphing data!
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Hold up. Did I just witness the removal of an oxygen sensor with an adjustable wrench!? Do I need to reevaluate my whole life, or are you able to reveal the secret to this sorcery? 🤔 😂
Cheapest decent OBD2 scanner I've found, is a cheap (Bluetooth) ELM327 OBD dongle ($5.00) and the phone App (Car Scanner Pro-$5.00).
It gives LIVE data graphs and plenty of features.
I used to have a $2,000 Matco professional unit, but it expired in 2001, so I needed something quick and simple.
This is good for now.
Best explanation of sensor banks on TH-cam...thanks...great vid !!!
Literally the best video I’ve seen to show how to test the sensors, THANK YOU!
Thank you. This video really helped and explored my knowledge to determine quick to which o2 sensor is fail via live data test by a scanner.
Good job, Checking my S2 at the moment. Reading is varying at 0.1+/- 0.05mV so assuming good sensor, think CAT needs a clean.
The best channel ever
Thanks for explaining that bank 1 is nearest the front of the engine. Good info!
Banks go by firing order, not cylinder number. The cylinder that fires first is bank one and its not always the same as cylinder number one.
Really well explained, thanks!
Excellent video!
Thanks alot for lovely vedio, but what if I have OBD1 lexus LS400 95 model, and I get the Bluetooth OBD2 & installed paid app , but not working with my LS400 ( works fine with other newrs cars )
What should I do to know the error cods check light in my LS400 95 🤔
Great explanation, thanks champ!
Awesome video, great explanation thank you so much.
Thanks that was a great way to see what's wrong, I'm trying to troubleshoot for the longest time a P0420, some say is either the oxigen sensors or the catalytic converter, you think if I get that reader, I'll get some good live data info besides the ox sensors? What other live data could help me with my code? 🙏
I have P0420 on my Sienna 2008 2GR-FE V6. Started to happen after I added to my fuel Chevron Fuel system cleaner. Have you figured out if it was sensor or the cat itself?
Same here pissed because i got it after using the chevron cat cleaner @kovalenkoihor4325
thank you for this info, great video!!
Amazing video! Thank you very much!
Thank you very much for such a clear and concise video.
Really helpful. Thank you.
This car has 2 upstream wideband sensors (they read current) and 2 downstream narrowband sensors (they read voltage).
Does this mean I can’t read the voltage for the upstream sensor?
Great explanations, and taking the time to show the live readouts and sensor activity... is so insightful.
I love my BlueDriver reader paired with the android app for observing these exact conditions with live telemetry on my big express van, which throws these faults sometimes. And sometimes, it's just old touchy wiring (that I probably will update at some point).
I have a question. First off you just saved me some money on 02 sensors with the live data explanation. I was about to replace mine but I did the live data test. The sensor has a high reading though, around 3 and is sporadic when idleing. Goes up and down when I rev it up or push on the brake. With a high sporadic reading like that what would be your next step in determining what is giving the code P2237? Please help. I’m a single woman who does all my own mechanic work
Check the circuit of the o2 sensor
Do you know if VW or any car trouble codes are recorded by the vehicle ?
I been having lots trouble with the one on top right side for the past year,I take it out & doesn’t look burnt this happens over & over again…. WTH is going on
Thanks
Hello. I saw your video about the oxygen sensor on TH-cam. I have it in my golf mk5 car.
Bank 1 Sensor 1 values are 5.29 mA. However, you said it should be between -2 and +1.5. Do you think 5.29 values are normal? Engine light is on. I'm not sure about the sensor's work.
Thanks sir
Thanks bro.. 💪✌️💙🏇🏇🏇
Morning tropical islander
❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
the tool you used was 170$ man but the tool in your link is 40$? how can you say that other one will work if you didnt use it?
You can get live data from your vehicle for even as little as $20 with the right setup. Doesn’t need to be expensive to get what you’re looking for
YOU SAVED ME ANOTHER 350$ ON SENSORS BECAUSE ID BEEN TOLD ALREADY AFTER 500$ ON PARTS THAT NOW IT WAS THE O2 SENSORS. THNKAS SO MUCH AND I WAS ABLE TO CHECK THIS OUT MYSELF INSTEAD OF LISTENING TO ANOTHER MECH SHOP WHO WAS WRONG
My wife’s 2016 Subaru Impreza has been discovered as covered in oil from a oil drip which has built up on the censor. Code P0171 constantly popping up. This has got to be the cause of the problem of rough idle, and constant engine check lights with P0171. I’m gonna clean it tomorrow and clear the oil and see if runs better
Very well explained and demonstrated. Thank you
@budgetmechanic I have a 2000 chevy express 3500 7.4 litre V8. Its strange because the exhaust manifolds lead to 2 cats, both with upstream sensor, but no downstream sensor, and they rejoin to a common tailpipe. I can't find any literature to determine if it should have upstream and downstream. The downstream plugs are there but I dont see any wiring if the downstream sensors ever existed. I'm like the 4th owner. Please help.
Jeep 1996 grand Cherokee has 6 cylinder but only one bank, two oxygen sensors. Because all 6 cylinder are in the same side.
He said that was for V6, not straight 6.
Miller Jeffrey Gonzalez George Davis Kevin
Question I have a 09 crv got code po 420 went connecting OBD for live data I get my numbers just don’t stay steady like on your obd I get 0.191 the 0.054 then - 0.031 is the a bad sensor ??
EXCELLENT AND VERY CLEAR INFORMATION !!!!! THANKS ALOT .
Hope someone can help. I have a uaz hunter and was running normally then suddenly the vehicle feels like.. if gas has dirt on it... and it shutsoff then start again and it feels like.. like again like if dirt was on gasoline and shuts off. I already bought a new oxygen sensor which i think it is. Any recomendation or comment on your experience ?
Create an open loop event and if the vehicle is running OK in open loop and starts to run bad in closed loop, its the O2 sensor, or something related to it. If you don't see the change right at the crossover, its probably something else.
Good work and skilled technician
Oriley, tool loan has the remover.
I have a 2002 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3, which is a V-6, and it only has two O2 sensors, 1 upstream, 1 downstream. Otherwise, thanks for the good info.
Trying to figure out why I started out with a P0135 code (1/1 heater performance), and after replacing the Bank 1 Sensor 1 (upstream) sensor, I now also get P0134 code (sensor circuit no activity detected B1/S1).
Your vehicle has 4 O2 sensors and its not up for debate. There's 4. If you really only have 2, someone removed them. I'm assuming that's not the case because if you are missing 2 sensors, the car would barely run. I know the video was well meaning, but there's nowhere near enough info in it to properly diagnose a vehicle. It was good enough to do his car in his driveway, but no more. There's a lot more too all this.
Disregard what he said about warming the motor up before you look at the scanner. When your motor is cold, you get some of your best diagnostic information. Its also related to your heater performance issue. When your cats and O2 sensors are cold, you don't get accurate information. Because of that, you'll get a check engine light every time you start your car. They get around this issue by using something called open and closed loop operation. Your car always starts off in open loop. In open loop, your pcm ignores the information it receives from from the O2 sensors and runs on a special fuel mapping strategy. Once your O2 sensors heat up to about 600 degrees, they're hot enough to work properly and the pcm goes into closed loop. Closed loop is when your PCM starts to take info from your O2 sensors.
Here's what you are going to do tomorrow morning. Turn the key on but don't start the vehicle. If you have a push button start, push it once or twice until on lights up. Some cars one push is on, while other you need to push the button twice. Make sure your foot is not on the brake or the car will start. Plug your scanner in, let it set up and then navigate to where it shows the data stream. Scroll down until you see open/closed loop. It may be abbreviated. From this point on, you're going to have to use your best judgement. Start the car and watch the open/closed line on the scan tool. It shouldn't take long, but its going to go from open to closed loop. When that happens, you need to watch for any changes. Check engine light comes on, the car runs differently, voltage output on the O2 sensors, etc... For example, if the car runs good and then starts to run rough when the pcm goes into closed loop, that tells you if there is a problem with your O2 sensors, or something related. Also, its a good idea to clear the codes before you start the car. Only the pcm can clear an emissions related dtc. When you clear the codes, the light turns off and the code goes from pending to permanent. All that means is its still there, but you just don't see it. When the pcm decides the issue is actually fixed, then it will delete it.
For your problem, I suspect you have a bad O2 sensor for 2 reasons. Mainly because of the first heater code. Everyone's so crazy over emissions, modern O2 sensors have heaters built in to heat the sensor up faster so the pcm can drop into closed loop sooner. Its also a specific code. Most O2 codes are more general, and the issue may, or may not be with the actual sensor. You need to check and make sure the new sensor is fully plugged in. If it is plugged in properly, I think you either have a bad part, or the wrong part number. This is very common with aftermarket O2 sensors. You may have to try a different brand, or better yet, an OE sensor. If you can find the O2 sensor on the other bank, you can swap them. They're the same part number. If the problem follows to the other side, its definitely a bad O2 sensor. And if you think you may have missed something when you were watching the scanner, its no big deal. Just let the car cool down and try again.
If it's not an oem sensor that could be the problem lots of cars won't read aftermarket because of the circuits in the sensors
I have a toyota camry 2018 se 2.5l
I have misfire cyl 2. Code and also random misfire I believe p3000
I have new fuel pump and filter. New Injectors.. new spark plugs. swapped coils to check if it changes to different cylinder code.
Checked leakage for valves. Good.
Intake sensor good. MAF sensor is good.
Haven't checked compression. But when I disconnect cylinder 2 while misfiring it doesn't change meaning seems that exactly still the area where the problem resides. All others (1,3,4) when disconnected cause it to misfire even more..
I do also get engine power reduced sign on dash.
May my 02 sensor for any faulty reason possibly be causing my ECU to think it's running rich or lean and be causing the random misfire and the specific cylinder 2 misfire?? Without popping up a 02 sensor code on OBD 2 scanner???
Thank you guys any help would be amazing!
If you unplug the number 2 coil and nothing changes, its not the O2 sensor. It will effect the whole bank, not just 1 cylinder. Your coils get get constant power directly from the battery and the pcm grounds the coils to fire the plugs. You probably have a wiring issue. Check the connectors on the coil and the pcm for corrosion or damage. The only way to check the the other end of the power wire is to open the fuse box under the hood. You can check all the wires at both ends for continuity, but if the problem is intermittent, the wire won't test bad unless the problem is occurring. If you don't see anything obvious, and you're OK working with wires, just run 2 new wires. Do power first. You don't have to follow the path of the old wires. Run them on a rout that's easy for you do get to. Just make sure they don't interfere with anything else. Also, the wiring on your fuel injectors works exactly like the coils. If the cylinder is misfiring, it could be an injector. However, if you have direct injection, test the wires. Its no problem. Do not remove any injectors or any steel fuel lines. You have to know exactly what you're doing, and need special tools. If its anything more than the wires, take it to someone.
Just a general comment. You're relying too much on your scanner. Scanners can't fix problems. They're a diagnostic aid and nothing more. When you're doing electrical, your DVOM is by far your most important tool. That's what you're going to use to fix your car. Not the scanner. Its a valuable tool and you should have one. But all it can do is point you in the right direction.
and then you guys say Toyota is better than Kia o Hyundai. WOW. My Hyundai Elantra 2008 has Zero problems, never engine light on and still working as day one. HOW?
--- I told Toyota: FY forever and I'm happy I did.
@@HeydaCarreras The whole time I just needed to get original o. Em spark plugs. I didn't know it was that sensitive, but I learned some big lessons do this, but hey I feel you and what you're saying
Easy to understand, diy is the best. Avoid stealership at all cost.
How can you say, that you are mechanic? You just take off the old one and installed a new one😂 my 12 year old sister can do this😂😂😂😂