I have an update on my evap not ready status. yesterday my evap cleared for green. I have no codes at present date. My scan tool has drive cycle procedures for each of the monitors for the evap monitor it was..# 1, idle for 5 min. ...#2, put car in gear and and smoothly get your car up to 30 to 40 mph for two minuites. I tried this several times and finally it worked, so check your scan tool for this information. My OBD2 is a Zurich....life saver !
Very well explained. As you said, knowledge and especially experience are the most important tools to work with on such issues. Some old mechanics sadly fail to pass on these skills even if they are supposed to teach you..
I learned a while ago all about fuel trims with a couple of your videos, thanks to them I understand so much better the behavior of the engine computer and how it works in a different way when there’s a problem. Please keep sharing more stuff like this. Thanks 50s kid! 🙌🏻🔧
50's Kid always has great content. Thank you for working hard on these and bringing us (the community) great information about how to diagnose and fix our cars. I love your channel man, keep it up!
Super video. Wish I lived near you, haven't (ever) found a mechanic that even considered what you consider or know. Most just rev the hell out of the poor engine and/or replace 100 parts and charge you for all of them.
Re "fuel trims", the engine controller predicts what fuel is needed from the inlet sensors (MAP or MAF, IAT, rpm, TPS) and knowledge of the injector flowrates and engine operation (from test bench data). Engineers term that "feedforward control" or "open-loop control". "Predictive control" might be a better term. The exhaust O2 sensors give "feedback control" to fine-tune the O/F ratio, though have limited authority (say +/-10%). As mentioned, if fuel trims are close to zero, your engine is operating nominally. If far off, then something has changed in your engine, maybe some tuner mods. Most common is a vacuum leak. That is worse in a MAF engine (mass airflow sensor) since the feedforward controls don't account for the extra air flow. In a MAP engine (intake manifold pressure), vacuum leaks are accounted for. You can verify by pulling out the large vacuum hose (brake booster) and experience the engine idle greatly increase (more airflow) yet still runs smooth. To find a vacuum leak, start plugging off vacuum consumers (brake booster, cabin controls, EVAP system). Don't forget the PCV valve. My 1996 began idling way too fast, so I knew a vacuum leak was overpowering the IAC valve (fully closed is best it can do to restrict airflow past throttle plate). After verifying the throttle plate fully closed, and blocking off all consumers, I flowed water from a garden hose around the intake and found the rpm greatly slowed with water at the intake-head interface (hard to see under looped-over intake runners). That confirmed the intake gasket was bad. Removal found it had become brittle, with chunks missing. Had replaced that gasket 10 years earlier during a head removal and used a name brand, but likely a Chinese factory figured nobody would notice if they used cardboard with the proper logo.
Any chance you can do one of those test (like you did with cleaning the cats) to see of you can soak the o2 sensors in something and clean them/let em dry and see if they come back around?
I don't think they are coated with anything -- they operate at very high temps and everything pretty much burns right off. They just wear out over time.
@@50sKid i did some youtubing after leaving that comment, and i see that they do get filled with carbon, but people use weak cleaners like carb cleaner to try and spray it out, some stuff do come out and they(sensors) do come around, but after some milage they stop, Id love to see them soaked in a heavy cleaner of some type, maybe even in a ultrasonic cleaner, then tested... But i guess thats maybe just band aiding the issue.. Some say that you can clean them every 20k miles and they will last longer, but thats all speculation... I will do some more reading up...
@@thetoughcookie3665 right, all the other videos on YT is either badly recorded, or not inuf effort has been put in, thats why i love 50s kid videos, he is thorough.. Check out his video on cleaning cats...
Yes this problem is such a PITA I'm currently doing the drive cycle thing trying to get my 2016 silverado to pass smog everything ready except 02's and Cat sensor no CEL codes present 🤬
Good afternoon 50s Kid, I have a weird situation with my 200i 330i. All my monitors have already set but my check engine light is still on. MAfs are at 3.9, fuel trims are below 10 and the code on the dash is a P1092. Thanks in advance.
The vehicle needs to be driven in the specific conditions required for the computer to run the test , simple as that. Lots of time , the vehicle has to be run at idle for 5 min before being driven. Then has to be run another 5 min at idle AFTER the drive. Sometimes with the a/c on , sometimes without the a/c (depends of the manufacturer) . For the evap, fuel gauge has to be accurate and fuel has to be between 1/4 and 3/4. If the tank is full, the evap test won’t run. It’s all kinds of little stuff like that. Looking up obd2 drive cycle for your manufacturer/vehicle is a good start.
ive heard this before, but didnt think it was true because im used to hondas and acuras being so easy to clear all the monitors. now im dealing with a ford that is being a major pita, thanks for confirming
Great explanation. On BMW's...vacuum leaks & MAF sensor reading will drive me nuts. Next question is "what software to use to watch long & short fuel trim?" I tried to use Torque Lite but my E46 330ci wont show the Long fuel trim, just short. Driving me crazy.
I'm having this exact problem on my gtr I just upgraded turbos injectors intercooler etc etc etc and now after a ecutek tune the car monitors aren't getting ready, I drive this morning 50 miles and got 5 monitors ready from 7 but as soon as I turn the car off it resets, the only one that maintains is the misfire and comprehensive component, the guy who did the upgrades replaced the o2 sensor as I was having a code, now I don't have anymore codes after 150 miles but I still don't get the monitors ready
I have a foxwell NT 301, 2023 version. I have a Holden TK barina ( chevy Aveo) aussie version. Green led worked and showed air? And o2 sensor which worked well. I updated and 1: can't upload info to pc? 2: now the exclamation mark comes up? Any reply appreciated cheers from Australia 👍 subbed and liked 👍
What is the cause if the monitors reset and by the time I get it to the smog station I have three incomplete codes again? Which are catalyst converter, O2 sensor, and O2 sensor heater.
If I run my drive cycle and finally get my OBD Scanner to show green, how long will have to take it to shop for emissions before the next cycle happens and computer runs selftest? For example I am afraid its green and suddenly right before the shop, it runs cycle and check engine light comes on? What is my time limit in this case?
Maybe you can do a video on a common error with the 4.4. It's a camshaft timing advanced error. It's a tricky one. Some are saying it's the kiss of death because it means your chain guides are gone. Some say you just need to clean our replace your solenoids. Mine is an N62 but the M62 has the same issue
just spent months learning this the hard way. turns out my '02 e46 was relaying data through obd2 that was not correct. ista showed the correct readings, which then prompted the o2 sensors to be replaced. monitors then set, but such a headache
I drive a 2015 Dodge Challenger going in for its first smog test. I failed because o2 sensor monitors were not ready. I do a a drive cycle almost every midnight and still incomplete. I had the downstream o2 sensors replaced, and drove 300 miles and I'm still stuck.
@@stevew9563 finally got the o2 sensors to set. Freeway going 65 letting foot off gas to 55 and aggressively back up to 65, repeating it 5 times. Crazyiness but that's what worked.
Having a similar issue with my son’s 1998 Z3 with the M52 2.8L. The secondary air pump monitor won’t complete. The following are all working: air pump, check valve, vacuum solenoid and hoses. Smog and registration are due soon. Any ideas?
@@50sKid Thank you for your reply. We have replaced that vacuum line with a new high heat resistant silicone hose and verified that there is vacuum being pulled during cold start ups. We have also replaced both upstream and downstream O2 sensors with OEMs to eliminate the possibility of those causing the secondary air pump monitor to not complete
Hey! Happy to see that you are back to youtube with your good content! Would you recommend the X5 for for hauling other cars with a trailer? How sturdy it is?
@@50sKid Do you guys have them with mostly the bmw v8s right? Here in the EU there are a lot of them with diesel engines as diesel here is used with passenger cars as well. I’m just asking as an x5 noob which engines are the better ones.
Hey 50’s kid. You are the best. I used to watch your videos all the time for my 528i in the US. I moved to Mexico and I need help with my vehicle. It’s a 2012 Infiniti G37. It is running rich. I have replaced both pcv valves, cleaned both maf sensors, cleaned the map sensor and it is still running rich. Most of the mechanics here do not have the expected and expertise you have, and only these big dealers have the consult and other tools to check what is really going on. I have to pass the smog test. I would really appreciate it if you could please help me. I can send you pictures and information from my scanner if you could please help me find out what is going on. Thanks
![[UNCUT] เก็บ "สจ.โต้ง" เอี่ยวมาเฟีย รู้ตัวคนบงการ ก่อนสั่งลั่นไก I คนดังนั่งเคลียร์ I 13 ธ.ค.67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/o-J_p62D40w/mqdefault.jpg)
This guy is a killer. The best bmw channel there is.
This video will help alot of people chasing those pesky trim values.
I have an update on my evap not ready status. yesterday my evap cleared for green. I have no codes at present date. My scan tool has drive cycle procedures for each of the monitors for the evap monitor it was..# 1, idle for 5 min. ...#2, put car in gear and and smoothly get your car up to 30 to 40 mph for two minuites. I tried this several times and finally it worked, so check your scan tool for this information. My OBD2 is a Zurich....life saver !
What did you do to clear that?
Just keep conducting the drive cycle?
Very well explained. As you said, knowledge and especially experience are the most important tools to work with on such issues. Some old mechanics sadly fail to pass on these skills even if they are supposed to teach you..
I jacked both rear wheels up and did cycle in my driveway
Did it work? Bec what if it needs like a load and the engine is just doing it to easy?
Every time
I’ve done it 4 times
Whole key is doing the drive test the way it says. The owners manual recommends finding a track to rent, good luck
Jack it up with both back wheels off the ground I jack on trans case in middle of car and leave it on the jack while I’m doing the test
I learned a while ago all about fuel trims with a couple of your videos, thanks to them I understand so much better the behavior of the engine computer and how it works in a different way when there’s a problem.
Please keep sharing more stuff like this. Thanks 50s kid! 🙌🏻🔧
I'm happy to hear that! I will do more.
50's Kid always has great content. Thank you for working hard on these and bringing us (the community) great information about how to diagnose and fix our cars. I love your channel man, keep it up!
I finally found a video explaining this. It would have been nice to see shots of some graphs. Please make more of these.
Will do!
Great video explaining "Live Data". Always useful in diagnosing vacuum leaks.
Super video. Wish I lived near you, haven't (ever) found a mechanic that even considered what you consider or know. Most just rev the hell out of the poor engine and/or replace 100 parts and charge you for all of them.
Yep been there
Nice job! Thank you! Any additional pointers if we have a MAP not a MAF? :)
Cheers dude your a legend love the quick couple of lessons with examples to help demystify the data much appreciated
Another great video on diagnosing BMW issues!
Re "fuel trims", the engine controller predicts what fuel is needed from the inlet sensors (MAP or MAF, IAT, rpm, TPS) and knowledge of the injector flowrates and engine operation (from test bench data). Engineers term that "feedforward control" or "open-loop control". "Predictive control" might be a better term. The exhaust O2 sensors give "feedback control" to fine-tune the O/F ratio, though have limited authority (say +/-10%). As mentioned, if fuel trims are close to zero, your engine is operating nominally. If far off, then something has changed in your engine, maybe some tuner mods. Most common is a vacuum leak. That is worse in a MAF engine (mass airflow sensor) since the feedforward controls don't account for the extra air flow. In a MAP engine (intake manifold pressure), vacuum leaks are accounted for. You can verify by pulling out the large vacuum hose (brake booster) and experience the engine idle greatly increase (more airflow) yet still runs smooth.
To find a vacuum leak, start plugging off vacuum consumers (brake booster, cabin controls, EVAP system). Don't forget the PCV valve. My 1996 began idling way too fast, so I knew a vacuum leak was overpowering the IAC valve (fully closed is best it can do to restrict airflow past throttle plate). After verifying the throttle plate fully closed, and blocking off all consumers, I flowed water from a garden hose around the intake and found the rpm greatly slowed with water at the intake-head interface (hard to see under looped-over intake runners). That confirmed the intake gasket was bad. Removal found it had become brittle, with chunks missing. Had replaced that gasket 10 years earlier during a head removal and used a name brand, but likely a Chinese factory figured nobody would notice if they used cardboard with the proper logo.
Any chance you can do one of those test (like you did with cleaning the cats) to see of you can soak the o2 sensors in something and clean them/let em dry and see if they come back around?
I don't think they are coated with anything -- they operate at very high temps and everything pretty much burns right off. They just wear out over time.
@@50sKid i did some youtubing after leaving that comment, and i see that they do get filled with carbon, but people use weak cleaners like carb cleaner to try and spray it out, some stuff do come out and they(sensors) do come around, but after some milage they stop,
Id love to see them soaked in a heavy cleaner of some type, maybe even in a ultrasonic cleaner, then tested... But i guess thats maybe just band aiding the issue..
Some say that you can clean them every 20k miles and they will last longer, but thats all speculation... I will do some more reading up...
Actually could be interesting to see is it possible to get them fixed with stuff like that.
@@thetoughcookie3665 right, all the other videos on YT is either badly recorded, or not inuf effort has been put in, thats why i love 50s kid videos, he is thorough.. Check out his video on cleaning cats...
Yes this problem is such a PITA I'm currently doing the drive cycle thing trying to get my 2016 silverado to pass smog everything ready except 02's and Cat sensor no CEL codes present 🤬
Good afternoon 50s Kid, I have a weird situation with my 200i 330i. All my monitors have already set but my check engine light is still on. MAfs are at 3.9, fuel trims are below 10 and the code on the dash is a P1092. Thanks in advance.
So glad you're back
I’ve been driving for 3 days 2+ hrs a day and my monitors will not set. Everything but catalyst and evaporative.
Yap Cat and Evap are always the two hardest to set!
Really?! for me it’s the O2 and EVAP
The vehicle needs to be driven in the specific conditions required for the computer to run the test , simple as that.
Lots of time , the vehicle has to be run at idle for 5 min before being driven. Then has to be run another 5 min at idle AFTER the drive. Sometimes with the a/c on , sometimes without the a/c (depends of the manufacturer) .
For the evap, fuel gauge has to be accurate and fuel has to be between 1/4 and 3/4. If the tank is full, the evap test won’t run.
It’s all kinds of little stuff like that.
Looking up obd2 drive cycle for your manufacturer/vehicle is a good start.
ive heard this before, but didnt think it was true because im used to hondas and acuras being so easy to clear all the monitors. now im dealing with a ford that is being a major pita, thanks for confirming
@@dc5duben96 did you figure this out? I’m in the same situation but with my 2002 mustang Gt
@@danielviveros8165 na i drove my truck over 700 miles & cld not get all the monitors to set so i ended up just getting a crooked smog
Great explanation. On BMW's...vacuum leaks & MAF sensor reading will drive me nuts. Next question is "what software to use to watch long & short fuel trim?" I tried to use Torque Lite but my E46 330ci wont show the Long fuel trim, just short. Driving me crazy.
obdfusion -- it's only a couple bucks
Hey, u lost some weigh! Good for you. U are always the best!
I'm having this exact problem on my gtr I just upgraded turbos injectors intercooler etc etc etc and now after a ecutek tune the car monitors aren't getting ready, I drive this morning 50 miles and got 5 monitors ready from 7 but as soon as I turn the car off it resets, the only one that maintains is the misfire and comprehensive component, the guy who did the upgrades replaced the o2 sensor as I was having a code, now I don't have anymore codes after 150 miles but I still don't get the monitors ready
I have a foxwell NT 301, 2023 version. I have a Holden TK barina ( chevy Aveo) aussie version. Green led worked and showed air? And o2 sensor which worked well. I updated and 1: can't upload info to pc? 2: now the exclamation mark comes up? Any reply appreciated cheers from Australia 👍 subbed and liked 👍
I do own a 08 335i e93 that’s why I subscribed keep up the good work
What is the cause if the monitors reset and by the time I get it to the smog station I have three incomplete codes again? Which are catalyst converter, O2 sensor, and O2 sensor heater.
If I run my drive cycle and finally get my OBD Scanner to show green, how long will have to take it to shop for emissions before the next cycle happens and computer runs selftest? For example I am afraid its green and suddenly right before the shop, it runs cycle and check engine light comes on? What is my time limit in this case?
Just had my cat replaced last week and my evap is flashing not complete, what could be the problem that is holding this moniter up.
Maybe you can do a video on a common error with the 4.4. It's a camshaft timing advanced error. It's a tricky one. Some are saying it's the kiss of death because it means your chain guides are gone. Some say you just need to clean our replace your solenoids. Mine is an N62 but the M62 has the same issue
just spent months learning this the hard way. turns out my '02 e46 was relaying data through obd2 that was not correct. ista showed the correct readings, which then prompted the o2 sensors to be replaced. monitors then set, but such a headache
whats ista?
I drive a 2015 Dodge Challenger going in for its first smog test. I failed because o2 sensor monitors were not ready. I do a a drive cycle almost every midnight and still incomplete. I had the downstream o2 sensors replaced, and drove 300 miles and I'm still stuck.
You don't have a tune on your car do you? Very weird for that to be incomplete after all this time??
@@stevew9563 finally got the o2 sensors to set. Freeway going 65 letting foot off gas to 55 and aggressively back up to 65, repeating it 5 times. Crazyiness but that's what worked.
@@RareAirTwo4 - Ya some cars got a weird sequence you would never do in everyday driving.
What means when said:
Not Supported? Thank you in advance
The fuel trims are generated from the O2 sensors.
Some mechanics say it’s okay even if it’s 10 so my car between 0.0 and 2.3 ? It’s 2015 Jetta 1.8 turbo
Having a similar issue with my son’s 1998 Z3 with the M52 2.8L. The secondary air pump monitor won’t complete. The following are all working: air pump, check valve, vacuum solenoid and hoses. Smog and registration are due soon. Any ideas?
the vacuum line going to the air pump valve on the exhaust side of the engine near the front is cracked and/or broken.
@@50sKid Thank you for your reply. We have replaced that vacuum line with a new high heat resistant silicone hose and verified that there is vacuum being pulled during cold start ups. We have also replaced both upstream and downstream O2 sensors with OEMs to eliminate the possibility of those causing the secondary air pump monitor to not complete
@@handydaddy4232did you figure it out my cars doing the same thing?
@@brokeboychopstix6095 it turned out to be a bad secondary air pump and some dry rotted vacuum hoses
Hey! Happy to see that you are back to youtube with your good content! Would you recommend the X5 for for hauling other cars with a trailer? How sturdy it is?
Yeah we've towed plenty with it. It's very solid. Just not very reliable lol.
I towed an RV from New Mexico to San Diego. Kicked ass
@@50sKid Do you guys have them with mostly the bmw v8s right? Here in the EU there are a lot of them with diesel engines as diesel here is used with passenger cars as well. I’m just asking as an x5 noob which engines are the better ones.
Sir Jason, how often should we get a smog test done here in California?
every 2 years
I learned alot thank you!
I had a clog cat so its completely gutted lol evap and cat will never ready whats weird is i feel like evap should be ready and only cat should be bad
Hey 50’s kid. You are the best. I used to watch your videos all the time for my 528i in the US.
I moved to Mexico and I need help with my vehicle. It’s a 2012 Infiniti G37. It is running rich. I have replaced both pcv valves, cleaned both maf sensors, cleaned the map sensor and it is still running rich. Most of the mechanics here do not have the expected and expertise you have, and only these big dealers have the consult and other tools to check what is really going on. I have to pass the smog test. I would really appreciate it if you could please help me. I can send you pictures and information from my scanner if you could please help me find out what is going on. Thanks
Thank you sir for great video helpful 👍
Does this apply for the ccm monitor?
Also your gas tank should be 3/4 to 7/8 full.
Did you do the drive cycle?
Excelent video...👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
I've put 500 miles on my car...no Catalyst m monitor set..
i had this problem ,it was a purge valve.
I just need the heated cat 😢
Tool cart tour please 🙏
Are you bmw master mechanic. How come you know almost everything about these car?
I dunno I just learn a lot
Thank you.
🙏
Thanks
Yes I had a problem
Cool