Great video, love the video at high speeds to show actual vibration. A few things to add to make the job more complete. 1. Wire brush the tabs that hold the U-Joint caps on the rear yoke. Especially where they contact the U-Joint caps. 2. I always lightly center punch the shaft and yoke in the rear to mark the orientation (this is so when the next guy forgets to:). A center punch mark won't wipe or wash off. 3. This is a big one that I never knew. "Seat" the U-Joint caps. Yes "seat" them. I spotted it in a video and it is true. After you press in the caps, try to rotate the U-Joint. If it moves but is tight (and most of the time it is) take an impact socket that fits inside the yoke opening for the cap. Give it a quick wrap with a hammer. Do this on both caps. This will "seat" the cap and then the joint should move freely.
For those watching this video in fall 2020. I just had my 2017 Chevy Colorado serviced to repair the Chevy shutter. All that is required is a complete transmission flush. They remove all of the old fluid and replace it with a new Mobile 1 fluid. The old fluid was being corrupted with water moisture that somehow gets into the closed system. The service bulletin number is 18-NA-355. Seems to have solved the problem.
Here in Boise you can get anywhere in the valley pretty easily without driving on the highway. That’s been my fix for my 96 jimmy for a few years now. Looks like I’m going to be replacing a u-joint here soon. Hopefully I’ll be able to get back on the highway again this summer.
I pray this is it, my Silverado has been doing this and I have done 3 sets of rims and 5 sets of tires, all RFB. I did some research and told my mechanic to check the U-Joints and drivetrain. He called and said the u-joints had some play so he is replacing those in the AM and then he said that the front axels had a little play as well so that might be next but hoping this fixes it. Thank you for the in-depth video and the high speed view.
@keithheleno9153 well so far I had the drive shaft rebalanced, you joints done, both front CV axles and Joints done. And after over 3,000 dollars, I took it to my mechanic that's been doing stuff for my family for a long time and he rebalanced the tires and it fixed 75% of it, now I have new Rough Country M1 shocks on the way as well as the same for the front struts that should take care of the rest. Not quite sure why the other three places said it was balanced when it wasn't. But the axle was sort of broken in the front. You should only have a little bit of play back and forth but I had almost an inch play in all directions. So I'm guessing that was part of the problem but then the tires are out of balance so we couldn't tell
Excellent Job - great diagnosis. I wish I could have met you some years ago. You would have probably saved my 2001 Pathfinder with a similar Vibration, but it was coming from the front Transfer case on the 4WD Pathy.
One thing I have always done is tap the driveshaft on both sides with a hammer after putting in both clips to help center up the cups and remove any bind they might be in from the pressing.
I had a vibration after replacing U joints on my '02 Silverado. I later found that i had a poorly made yoke from factory. The ears of the yoke were different thickness from one side to the other causing the shaft to be off center. I had to get a new yoke and have the drive shaft balanced but all was good after that.
One thing I like to do, when installing new u-joints, the caps not being pressed into the driveshaft I like to put a piece of tape around them so I don't have to worry about them falling out while installing. Then take the tape off when installing onto the pinion yoke.
Thanks for the video. Great info, I have been chasing this issue with my Dodge 1500 for months now. Dealer can't figure it out. tires have been balanced all new steering components and problem persist. I suspect that's the only thing left to check and no one has bothered to
i have a suzuki sx4 that has simular problem. Virbation that is speed dependent .... i had the cv changed out and later front bearing.... but prob didnt go away ...had i watched this video i wouldve solved my vibration issue. thanks awsome video...
Ironically my U Joint went out on my truck as i went to merge on the highway a couple nights ago and put a hole in my fuel tank. Fun night that was. Not.
Co-worker had that happen on his Peterbilt, right after it came out of the shop from having some work done. He made it less than 45min up the road, and it let go at the front diff, because the mechanic hadn't torqued down the bolt that holds the yoke on the drive pinion at the front diff. When the yoke let go, the shaft thrashed around and tore open both his fuel tanks. The PB dealership had to come good for both saddle tanks, a yoke and pinion at the diff, and a new shaft, plus the big fat fine the company got for the fuel spill. I can't remember, but I think there was a fight over the tow bill. And the co-worker was out of work for a week and a half while the parts were rounded up and installed. Last thing I heard over that, that particular mechanic was let go. The fuel spill fine itself was ten grand, no idea how much the cleanup was, and I didn't have the heart to ask too many questions so I never found out how much the damage was to his truck in terms of dollar figure.
Thank you. My 99 jeep cherokee 4wd has a vibe that starts at 75mph and gets worse as you go up from there. I’ve grabbed the u-joints before, but didn’t see or feel play. I have new, balanced tires, so they’re not the culprits.
@@RideAcrossTheRiver believe it or not, I haven’t found out the culprit yet. It has cracked the stock tranny(replaced with ng3550), then destroyed the 242(put orig 231 back in), even though I put a new Tom Woods driveshaft on the rear. I have a new TW front shaft ready to go on, but none is on atm. I suspect the rear pinion is the culprit and have an eaton trutrack and new 3.55s to go on. I can’t believe an out of balance wheel would destroy a tranny and xfer case.
@@grad0n Okay, you have a major issue more than mine. I just feel a massage-chair thrum in my Escape at highway speed. No severe shake like you describe. Hope thats fixed for you soon.
My 2011 Ford Escape would vibrate violently at just under 100 mph, I would hear a thump than it would settle down, I’m suspecting a bad U-Joint like this! Nice video! :-)
One more thing to add whenever I do a drive shaft I always take it to a speed shop that specializes in drive shafts and rear end and had the shaft balanced makes a big difference especially on aluminum they true it and balance it makes a last a lot longer and a lot smoother
My car had a vibration exactly between 120 and 130 km/h (75 and 80 mi/h), which was annoying as those two numbers are common speed limits on the highways where I live. Then I went and changed the timing belt (i4 interference engine), which required removing one of the motor mounts. I had marked the mount in order to put it back where it was, but when I went to do so I noticed I really had to put a lot of force against the engine to push it back into its previous position. So I fastened the motor mount in what seemed like the right position instead. No more vibration :) I went back later with a fabricobbled caliper to check the engine position and it was dead on. I still have no clue how it got moved out of position by about 2.5 cm / 1 inch, though I suppose it might have something to do with the previous owner driving into things on a regular basis.
I have a Chevy G20 van that I've been restoring with moog steering parts and acdelco for everything else. I see on RockAuto they have the GM genuine u-joints and also they have Moog u-joints. I can't tell from the pictures if the GM ones are greaseable. Are you aware if there's a big difference in the quality between the two? I'm leaning more towards the GM genuine u-joints but I'm not sure if the Moog is more of an upgraded version and I know for a fact that it's greasable.
I liked the way you put the ujoint back togeather, the bottom was good but when you went to push the top one in you couldn't keep the ujoint pressed togeather like the first one and the knocking from that impact might make those needle bearings come out
Randomchannel they are not supposed to shake. People with Mopar hit 170 all the time without it shaking. It stopped shaking after I got my tires alignment.
I’ve replaced my entire from brake system, pitman arm and idler arm, I’ve gotten the wheels balanced and checked for uneven tire thread but I have yet to check the u joint from yolk to trans. The rear u joint I’ve replaced recently. Hopefully this fixes my NBS Silverado.
My daily commute for school consists of an hour on the interstate on a bus, half at 55mph and half at 65mph. It's fine at 55 but vibrates like crazy at 65, and the bus has 515,000 miles. Not very confidence inspiring
It's interesting, when seeing a drive shaft starting to speed up it looks like it's spins one direction then start spinning the other direction. Aluminum is definitely good for some parts but not all, like body panels and or truck beds, bad Ford Good GM, lol
Should you run your vehicle like that with the rear axle hanging? Doesn't that change the angle of the driveshaft? Also, would it be a good idea to replace the transmission extension housing seal while you have your driveshaft out? Or is that one of those things that if it ain't broke don't fix it? My mechanic did not change the seal and now it leaks and I have to have him remove the driveshaft again and replace the seal so it will cost me more money now.
Yes my Buick does the same thing.... But I just think I want new drive shaft. Some one..."me and my Friend"...lol put a turbo 400 in it and did the best we could to cut and modified 3 different drive shafts .... The front spline from the 1970 Oldsmobile.... A drive shaft off a 67chevy short bed and the origin tail off the original 86 Buick regal... The vibration is minor... But its off to the machine shop when I get off the road!
I have a 1985 Toyota pu. I've had this truck for about 18 years. It has always had this same problem. It comes and goes. I've replace the u joints and no change. I think the pinion bearing is worn out. I can move it up and a little.
Good video thank you. I have. 2016 Lincoln MKZ and I’ve had a problem with vibration since I had it. Both the dealers bought it from and the Lincoln dealer both said it was the wheels. So I had the wheels straightened and just bought new tires all around and still have vibrating from the rear. Feel it in my lower back. It’s front wheel drive so you have any idea what it could be?? Thank you
Mine vibrates above 35mph, dosnt vibrate when braking or accelerating quickly.only when coasting above 35 and get worse the faster you go. Driveshaft? Orrr any other opinions?
I just got the same problem on my Chevy Tahoe 2002 but my U joints are so rusted that there’s zero play or movement, I even tried moving them with a pry bar, any takers ?
So what about an awd suburban? Mine shakes an moans at highway speeds, jus replaced rotors pads an wheel bearings up front, haven't done the cv shafts yet or the u joints on the front driveshaft.
You might can help me. My 2005 gmc sierra after a while driving start a vibration but if I stop and re-start driving no more vibration for lot of time, vibration comes randomly not at determinated speed. Normally after 60mph. When the vibration starts I hit the brakes the feel like stuck in. I don't know because I already replace driveshaft, u-joints, bearing.
When I've put u joints in I've had the get tight, I've tapped the flange with a hammer, on a steel driveshaft but what do you do on an aluminum drive shaft if the u joint is tight ??
![Why Does My CAR SHAKE at Speeds OVER 70 MPH? [Top Reasons]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/BSnPrsejVL0/mqdefault.jpg)
Great video, love the video at high speeds to show actual vibration. A few things to add to make the job more complete.
1. Wire brush the tabs that hold the U-Joint caps on the rear yoke. Especially where they contact the U-Joint caps.
2. I always lightly center punch the shaft and yoke in the rear to mark the orientation (this is so when the next guy forgets to:). A center punch mark won't wipe or wash off.
3. This is a big one that I never knew. "Seat" the U-Joint caps. Yes "seat" them. I spotted it in a video and it is true. After you press in the caps, try to rotate the U-Joint. If it moves but is tight (and most of the time it is) take an impact socket that fits inside the yoke opening for the cap. Give it a quick wrap with a hammer. Do this on both caps. This will "seat" the cap and then the joint should move freely.
Nice!!!!
Probably the best auto repair video I've seen on the tubes. Detailed but to the point. 👍 well done.
Sometimes vibrations are really tricky to diagnose. Nice job Daniel! -Glen
226k and still going. Gotta love your suburban!
Yeah the older GM cars were better than the new ones
For those watching this video in fall 2020. I just had my 2017 Chevy Colorado serviced to repair the Chevy shutter. All that is required is a complete transmission flush. They remove all of the old fluid and replace it with a new Mobile 1 fluid. The old fluid was being corrupted with water moisture that somehow gets into the closed system. The service bulletin number is 18-NA-355. Seems to have solved the problem.
I read the title and thought this
Variation at highway speeds? Here's how to fix... go slower. Problem solved. Great video, keep up the great work!
Evan Morin that’s definitely an easier fix 😂
Here in Boise you can get anywhere in the valley pretty easily without driving on the highway. That’s been my fix for my 96 jimmy for a few years now. Looks like I’m going to be replacing a u-joint here soon. Hopefully I’ll be able to get back on the highway again this summer.
I pray this is it, my Silverado has been doing this and I have done 3 sets of rims and 5 sets of tires, all RFB. I did some research and told my mechanic to check the U-Joints and drivetrain. He called and said the u-joints had some play so he is replacing those in the AM and then he said that the front axels had a little play as well so that might be next but hoping this fixes it. Thank you for the in-depth video and the high speed view.
Update?
@keithheleno9153 well so far I had the drive shaft rebalanced, you joints done, both front CV axles and Joints done. And after over 3,000 dollars, I took it to my mechanic that's been doing stuff for my family for a long time and he rebalanced the tires and it fixed 75% of it, now I have new Rough Country M1 shocks on the way as well as the same for the front struts that should take care of the rest. Not quite sure why the other three places said it was balanced when it wasn't. But the axle was sort of broken in the front. You should only have a little bit of play back and forth but I had almost an inch play in all directions. So I'm guessing that was part of the problem but then the tires are out of balance so we couldn't tell
Excellent Job - great diagnosis. I wish I could have met you some years ago. You would have probably saved my 2001 Pathfinder with a similar Vibration, but it was coming from the front Transfer case on the 4WD Pathy.
very helpful! it is very hard to find quality detail like this that isn't complete lies and vague. much appreciated brother
One thing I have always done is tap the driveshaft on both sides with a hammer after putting in both clips to help center up the cups and remove any bind they might be in from the pressing.
I had a vibration after replacing U joints on my '02 Silverado. I later found that i had a poorly made yoke from factory. The ears of the yoke were different thickness from one side to the other causing the shaft to be off center. I had to get a new yoke and have the drive shaft balanced but all was good after that.
One thing I like to do, when installing new u-joints, the caps not being pressed into the driveshaft I like to put a piece of tape around them so I don't have to worry about them falling out while installing. Then take the tape off when installing onto the pinion yoke.
Ima get that checked my Prius shakes when I go over 180
Pfft. Who drives a Prius!?
Ronald T just look left , and right when you are on the road , and you find out how many people do . 😃🤭🥴
An prius cant even go 180 mph
Ronald T nothing wrong woth prius
Felipe Tafolla maybe 80 mph.
I can watch these videos all day
Thanks for the video. Great info, I have been chasing this issue with my Dodge 1500 for months now. Dealer can't figure it out. tires have been balanced all new steering components and problem persist. I suspect that's the only thing left to check and no one has bothered to
We're u able to fix the problem with this ?
i have a suzuki sx4 that has simular problem. Virbation that is speed dependent .... i had the cv changed out and later front bearing.... but prob didnt go away ...had i watched this video i wouldve solved my vibration issue. thanks awsome video...
Ironically my U Joint went out on my truck as i went to merge on the highway a couple nights ago and put a hole in my fuel tank. Fun night that was. Not.
Co-worker had that happen on his Peterbilt, right after it came out of the shop from having some work done. He made it less than 45min up the road, and it let go at the front diff, because the mechanic hadn't torqued down the bolt that holds the yoke on the drive pinion at the front diff. When the yoke let go, the shaft thrashed around and tore open both his fuel tanks. The PB dealership had to come good for both saddle tanks, a yoke and pinion at the diff, and a new shaft, plus the big fat fine the company got for the fuel spill. I can't remember, but I think there was a fight over the tow bill. And the co-worker was out of work for a week and a half while the parts were rounded up and installed. Last thing I heard over that, that particular mechanic was let go. The fuel spill fine itself was ten grand, no idea how much the cleanup was, and I didn't have the heart to ask too many questions so I never found out how much the damage was to his truck in terms of dollar figure.
Thank you. My 99 jeep cherokee 4wd has a vibe that starts at 75mph and gets worse as you go up from there. I’ve grabbed the u-joints before, but didn’t see or feel play. I have new, balanced tires, so they’re not the culprits.
You find out what it was ?
I want to know too!
@@RideAcrossTheRiver believe it or not, I haven’t found out the culprit yet. It has cracked the stock tranny(replaced with ng3550), then destroyed the 242(put orig 231 back in), even though I put a new Tom Woods driveshaft on the rear. I have a new TW front shaft ready to go on, but none is on atm. I suspect the rear pinion is the culprit and have an eaton trutrack and new 3.55s to go on. I can’t believe an out of balance wheel would destroy a tranny and xfer case.
@@grad0n Okay, you have a major issue more than mine. I just feel a massage-chair thrum in my Escape at highway speed. No severe shake like you describe. Hope thats fixed for you soon.
Curious if you ever figured out your problem? I have the same problem.
My 2011 Ford Escape would vibrate violently at just under 100 mph, I would hear a thump than it would settle down, I’m suspecting a bad U-Joint like this!
Nice video! :-)
Did you fix it?
Awesome. I've changed a few u joints and always fight them. That press style c clamp definitely made light work of this job. Thanks for sharing
MrDavidelliottjr the U joints in the aluminum driveshafts seem to be a little more of a bitch to press than the steel ones.
Another great video Daniel!
Following you on tik tok😁
Best detail, right to the point video on youtube. Very well done.
Very nicely done. Rarely a need to replace everything.
One more thing to add whenever I do a drive shaft I always take it to a speed shop that specializes in drive shafts and rear end and had the shaft balanced makes a big difference especially on aluminum they true it and balance it makes a last a lot longer and a lot smoother
Nice job on the video very informative very similar to Chris fix videos 👍🏼
My car had a vibration exactly between 120 and 130 km/h (75 and 80 mi/h), which was annoying as those two numbers are common speed limits on the highways where I live. Then I went and changed the timing belt (i4 interference engine), which required removing one of the motor mounts. I had marked the mount in order to put it back where it was, but when I went to do so I noticed I really had to put a lot of force against the engine to push it back into its previous position. So I fastened the motor mount in what seemed like the right position instead. No more vibration :) I went back later with a fabricobbled caliper to check the engine position and it was dead on. I still have no clue how it got moved out of position by about 2.5 cm / 1 inch, though I suppose it might have something to do with the previous owner driving into things on a regular basis.
What kind of ball joint press do you have? Thanks, love the video
Well done, Daniel. Great content and editing.
Will R Long time no see! 😂
Keep up the great work Daniel
GMManiac’s dad has a 2004 Chevrolet Suburban Z71 4WD in red that he bought in November of 2006
I kind of figured it was gonna be a U-joint problem my Dodge 4x4 started vibrating at 65 MPH
Have you ever took it to dirt roads and probably went a lil fast?
this might be the same issue with my ram 1500 so im waiting for the parts to arrive and I hope it solves the problem
mkm I’m having the same issue with my 2014 ram 1500 just got brand new tires and still shakes at 70 mph.
same with my 1500 ram
Great thanks! I felt scared watching thinking it's going to break and come through my phone haha
*Nice!, although would’ve loved to have seen it spin with the new U-Joint*
I have a Chevy G20 van that I've been restoring with moog steering parts and acdelco for everything else. I see on RockAuto they have the GM genuine u-joints and also they have Moog u-joints. I can't tell from the pictures if the GM ones are greaseable. Are you aware if there's a big difference in the quality between the two? I'm leaning more towards the GM genuine u-joints but I'm not sure if the Moog is more of an upgraded version and I know for a fact that it's greasable.
I liked the way you put the ujoint back togeather, the bottom was good but when you went to push the top one in you couldn't keep the ujoint pressed togeather like the first one and the knocking from that impact might make those needle bearings come out
Ima get that checked up, my dodge shakes when I go over 80 mph
Thats normal on all dodges
Randomchannel really that sounds more like a bad experience to me how can u say they all shake lol that’s funny tho
Randomchannel they are not supposed to shake. People with Mopar hit 170 all the time without it shaking. It stopped shaking after I got my tires alignment.
Yeah, never drive a dodge that fast
Thanks bro ,had the same problem I changed the drive shaft but not the ujoints 👍
I will check my suburban I got the same problem right now thanks for your help
Approximately how much for that style of lift
Thanks so much for the lesson very well explained
Thanks for the video Daniel. Had exact issue in Tacoma
I have been trying to solve this issue for years on my 05 suburban. I’ll report back if it fixes it. Thank you
did you find the problem?
Unfortunately I did not. Vehicle was totaled😅
@@RDub4433 well that solves every problem then LOL thanks for the reply 😂
I’ve replaced my entire from brake system, pitman arm and idler arm, I’ve gotten the wheels balanced and checked for uneven tire thread but I have yet to check the u joint from yolk to trans. The rear u joint I’ve replaced recently. Hopefully this fixes my NBS Silverado.
Your a good man for sharing this knowledge 🙏
Great Video where did you get the car lift and what's the name of it?
Good job, two bad thaw Slow-Mo guys weren't your neighbors, they could have come by.
chevy driveshaft video huh? Very nice :) i got one of those too!
Very informative video. Thx for posting.
Weber Auto has a great video series on U-joint replacement.
Get new tires, or check your u-joints.
My daily commute for school consists of an hour on the interstate on a bus, half at 55mph and half at 65mph.
It's fine at 55 but vibrates like crazy at 65, and the bus has 515,000 miles. Not very confidence inspiring
It’s an intended feature to discourage you from speeding lol
I have this issue on my 2003 Ford Explorer I wonder if this is the issue.
In Ohio? Come fix mine! We’ll explained! I give you five stars for the explanation!
It's interesting, when seeing a drive shaft starting to speed up it looks like it's spins one direction then start spinning the other direction.
Aluminum is definitely good for some parts but not all, like body panels and or truck beds, bad Ford Good GM, lol
That's because of the camera frame rate
New ford's don't have to worry about body rot.
GM went that way already on new trucks with the body panels only thing on the body that's steel is the inside of the truck beds.
@@Koshunae Only time will tell. Salt and brine will destroy anything.
K
Well done, Daniel.
Ya my ford ranger was vibrating like rumble strip sounds at 45+ mph . It was a ball joint on the upper control arm. Easy fix ..
I hope one days my channel gets this big💪🏻 keep it up bother
Should you run your vehicle like that with the rear axle hanging? Doesn't that change the angle of the driveshaft?
Also, would it be a good idea to replace the transmission extension housing seal while you have your driveshaft out? Or is that one of those things that if it ain't broke don't fix it? My mechanic did not change the seal and now it leaks and I have to have him remove the driveshaft again and replace the seal so it will cost me more money now.
Ok I need one of those lifts where'd ya get it?
I beliebe to have the same problem exactly. But the mechanic suggested to get a new 3 piece centre drive shaft on my mazda cx9 2008.
Great video Dan!
My Chevy colorado is also starting to vibrate at 70mph and indeed it was the u joints 👌🏾
HOW MUCH DID THE REPAIR COST???
Yes my Buick does the same thing.... But I just think I want new drive shaft. Some one..."me and my Friend"...lol put a turbo 400 in it and did the best we could to cut and modified 3 different drive shafts .... The front spline from the 1970 Oldsmobile.... A drive shaft off a 67chevy short bed and the origin tail off the original 86 Buick regal... The vibration is minor... But its off to the machine shop when I get off the road!
Lubed for life stuff, gotta love it😤
That burb looks clean for the mileage!
Yep them dam u-joints will do that good job 👍 brother
I have a 1985 Toyota pu. I've had this truck for about 18 years. It has always had this same problem. It comes and goes. I've replace the u joints and no change. I think the pinion bearing is worn out. I can move it up and a little.
Great job!! Done many of these myself!!!
Good job with the new videos
Thank you. Your way to explain is very clear.
such videos shall be used in the future for training sister bluebird
The floor jack/lift that you have. How do you like it and where did you get it?
Good video thank you. I have. 2016 Lincoln MKZ and I’ve had a problem with vibration since I had it. Both the dealers bought it from and the Lincoln dealer both said it was the wheels. So I had the wheels straightened and just bought new tires all around and still have vibrating from the rear. Feel it in my lower back. It’s front wheel drive so you have any idea what it could be?? Thank you
Out of balance CV joints???
Great video. This may be the solution I have looking for! Thanks
My dad has a 2004 Chevrolet Suburban LT 2WD in black that he had since February of 2004
Mine vibrates above 35mph, dosnt vibrate when braking or accelerating quickly.only when coasting above 35 and get worse the faster you go. Driveshaft? Orrr any other opinions?
I just got the same problem on my Chevy Tahoe 2002 but my U joints are so rusted that there’s zero play or movement, I even tried moving them with a pry bar, any takers ?
I have a 2002 Chevrolet Suburban Z71 4WD In white and bought it in May of 2003
How much for a job like that
Would that be the same problem in a Eddie Bower Ford Explorer at 55mph and above and when coasting? Vibration that is.
Yeah, happy to see a new useful tutorial of yours !
yea, safety first!
If it was 4 wheel drive what would you look at in the front?
Drive axles silly
Well the u joints
could it be my spark plugs on my 2008 ford f-150
Nice Vid! My 07 Yukon Denali Shakes around 70 Mph also! Hope it's the Same issue!
WAS IT THIS???
Man this isn't a common issue on most cars. Most cars have the original drive shaft and Ujoint.
lol you definitely didn't need the slow mo cam for that
Excellent video on the subject.
Very good video keep up the good work
Why did trans fluid not leak out when the drive shaft was removed from the transmission?
I've never removed one without the fluid leaking out.
So what about an awd suburban? Mine shakes an moans at highway speeds, jus replaced rotors pads an wheel bearings up front, haven't done the cv shafts yet or the u joints on the front driveshaft.
can you tell me the brand and model of your ball joint tool you use?
Wow you are a very good explainer
Nice video!
Hey Daniel. My 2017 Dodge Ram 1500 Crew Cab . Passenger seat vibrates, while going 65 or faster. Why is that?
how many times he said driveshaft ?#
You might can help me. My 2005 gmc sierra after a while driving start a vibration but if I stop and re-start driving no more vibration for lot of time, vibration comes randomly not at determinated speed. Normally after 60mph. When the vibration starts I hit the brakes the feel like stuck in.
I don't know because I already replace driveshaft, u-joints, bearing.
its gotta be my rear U-joint. once i get up to 80km and Above my 2013 f-150 shakes like crazy,
When I've put u joints in I've had the get tight, I've tapped the flange with a hammer, on a steel driveshaft but what do you do on an aluminum drive shaft if the u joint is tight ??
@Jeff F I don't hit the yoke tube I hit the ears on it so it'll bounce back and be free
@Jeff F it does, sometimes you get lucky and they are loose, and sometimes they are a tad tight, I always use a rubber hammer lol