First of all, make sure the CV boots are intact at both ends of the axles, and that you don't have exposed joints. If the boots are ok, and you just have noise at full lock, I wouldn’t take a road trip, but if it’s only noisy at full lock, you may have some time. A joint failure will likely result in a vehicle that won't move at all, so the best advice in general is to fix it now.
Very helpful. I'm trying to diagnose clicking from the left rear of a tesla model 3 right now. It doesn't happen under acceleration or braking, but does when I'm turning mildly to the right. Oddly it goes away with a tight turn to the right. Need to run some more tests to make sure I am not coasting during those turns. Anyway I was suspecting a wheel bearing, but it could be the CV joint based on your video. The car only has about 12k miles but has seen a fair amount of track time.. fun to figure this one out.
@@teslatrackdays2819 try the same thing but with the car in neutral, if possible. If the sound changes it may be the CV. Track days sounds like a lot more fun than driving a LEaf around :-)
If we're talking a single click/clunk and no repetitions as you turn on a FWD, or AWD vehicle, then you need to start looking at the ball joint, outboard tie rod end, or strut bearing. In that case, it will likely click/clunk when you're not moving, but steering to the rack limits.
This suggests a problem with the left CV joint. Try it coasting in neutral as well. If you hear no sound in neutral/coasting turning right, but sound when in drive, it’s likely the left CV joint/axle.
@@nowthenad3286 The hoist has paid for itself many times over. 10 years ago it was not so expensive either. The Maxjax units now are better designed with locks all the way up and are still relatively affordable as hoists go.
@WoodysWorksGarage that's what I'm trying to assess. Whether it is a CV axel issue or not since a similar noise that sounds like metal pipes hitting each other kinda popping happens while driving straight. Is that caused by CV axel or something else. Most videos with axle problems suggest noise only happens while turning
@ when the axle is really bad, it will be noisy at all orientations. Getting it up on a hoist with a run test like I did will help to isolate. The word “popping” points to a CV axle though. Hopefully you don’t have an issue with the transaxle itself, but start with CV joints to diagnose. When a bad CV axle is drooping (as it would be in the air) the angle at the CV joint is fairly high and it will make a racket if it’s bad. You can test on a leaf by raising the front end on axle stands, block the rear wheels, and turn off VDC in the console menu. Then shift to drive and dial in a small amount of acceleration. The video covers the process…
@WoodysWorksGarage my vehicle is rear wheel drive but the noise is coming from the front which is which is why I'm confused and don't think that test will work. It's actually AWD car but runs as RWD until slippage is detected and then makes it's AWD. I appreciate your help and will get it up but the fact power comes from back confuses me.
@@zelowatch30 With this type of issue (water allowed into the joint), it got gradually worse, particularly after winter with salt/sand on the roads. Best to jump on a fix so you don’t get stranded with a failure :-)
This is very tasteful and very demure Dennis!
@@LivvyWood-x1w yes, no nuts jokes :-)
Demure .. big word .
@ well, you know the source, she has quite a vocab :-)
If it only happens when you turn strongly, how long can you wait before getting it replaced? I'd like to wait until spring...
First of all, make sure the CV boots are intact at both ends of the axles, and that you don't have exposed joints. If the boots are ok, and you just have noise at full lock, I wouldn’t take a road trip, but if it’s only noisy at full lock, you may have some time. A joint failure will likely result in a vehicle that won't move at all, so the best advice in general is to fix it now.
Very helpful. I'm trying to diagnose clicking from the left rear of a tesla model 3 right now. It doesn't happen under acceleration or braking, but does when I'm turning mildly to the right. Oddly it goes away with a tight turn to the right. Need to run some more tests to make sure I am not coasting during those turns. Anyway I was suspecting a wheel bearing, but it could be the CV joint based on your video. The car only has about 12k miles but has seen a fair amount of track time.. fun to figure this one out.
@@teslatrackdays2819 try the same thing but with the car in neutral, if possible. If the sound changes it may be the CV. Track days sounds like a lot more fun than driving a LEaf around :-)
You should do a shop tour.
Thanks!
Not a bad concept at all. Thanks for the idea!
Hi! So what could it be if it’s just a single click?
If we're talking a single click/clunk and no repetitions as you turn on a FWD, or AWD vehicle, then you need to start looking at the ball joint, outboard tie rod end, or strut bearing. In that case, it will likely click/clunk when you're not moving, but steering to the rack limits.
Turning full lock is often the cause of CV failure. It's best to avoid full lock turns.
I do indeed avoid full lock turns where possible, however for diagnosis, they sure bring out CV issues in a hurry :-)
I only hear a clicking clunking rype noise when im turning right only
This suggests a problem with the left CV joint. Try it coasting in neutral as well. If you hear no sound in neutral/coasting turning right, but sound when in drive, it’s likely the left CV joint/axle.
Thank your u so much
Glad you found this helpful. Figuring out which side is noisy can be tricky!
So jealous of your car lift.
@@nowthenad3286 The hoist has paid for itself many times over. 10 years ago it was not so expensive either. The Maxjax units now are better designed with locks all the way up and are still relatively affordable as hoists go.
Love your videos
Aw, thanks :-)
Thank you so much
You're quite welcome 🙂
Mine makes that same metallic clunking noise even while driving straight or in reverse
@@Rahiem-w3c If it is a CV axle issue, then this is a sign that failure is likely imminent :-(. If it does break, the vehicle will not be driveable.
@WoodysWorksGarage that's what I'm trying to assess. Whether it is a CV axel issue or not since a similar noise that sounds like metal pipes hitting each other kinda popping happens while driving straight. Is that caused by CV axel or something else. Most videos with axle problems suggest noise only happens while turning
@ when the axle is really bad, it will be noisy at all orientations. Getting it up on a hoist with a run test like I did will help to isolate. The word “popping” points to a CV axle though. Hopefully you don’t have an issue with the transaxle itself, but start with CV joints to diagnose. When a bad CV axle is drooping (as it would be in the air) the angle at the CV joint is fairly high and it will make a racket if it’s bad. You can test on a leaf by raising the front end on axle stands, block the rear wheels, and turn off VDC in the console menu. Then shift to drive and dial in a small amount of acceleration. The video covers the process…
@WoodysWorksGarage my vehicle is rear wheel drive but the noise is coming from the front which is which is why I'm confused and don't think that test will work. It's actually AWD car but runs as RWD until slippage is detected and then makes it's AWD. I appreciate your help and will get it up but the fact power comes from back confuses me.
@ in your scenario there are still two CV joints up front. You can do a hoist test but all four tires need to be off the ground.
Mine isn't this bad but when I turn uphill or downhill I definitely hear noise.
@@zelowatch30 With this type of issue (water allowed into the joint), it got gradually worse, particularly after winter with salt/sand on the roads. Best to jump on a fix so you don’t get stranded with a failure :-)