Reminds me of seeing when they did the Cleveland head on the 300-6 This is going to be a neat project. These heads have some advantages over the older style head, especially with the amount of compression you can run or boost very efficient. Can’t wait to see how it turns out.
I've done this a few times. What you have will work...sometimes. The end cylinders will have issues with the valves tagging the bores unless you cut the bores oversize, if you only make one cut-and join in the middle. To get the bores centered up on the valves, you need to make a cut between each set of head bolts, and weld it up. It isn't that much more work and allows proper porting to make BIG power. Also the stock 300-6 cam will put valve lift WAY up, as it had a pathetic rocker ratio with the stock head. You will need good quality aftermarket springs, as the 300 will rev HARD with 862 heads and the stock cam, and if you get a good balance job done the only limiter is the pistons holding up. With forgings, it is trivial to hit 7500RPM, and with a good quality damper and as light a flywheel and smallest diameter clutch you can live with, 8300RPM was as high as I had the testicular fortitude to go with mine. Mine has the forged HD crankshaft, there are a few left out there if you call the rebuilders and ask for one specifically. Stock rods are good to about 600ft-lbs of output at the crankshaft, then they start to bend. DO NOT trust the stock rod bolts.
the 5.3 bore is 3.780 in.so with the bigger 4in bore i hope itll clear, i made a lot of effort, so i hope the valves will clear, fingers crossed, stock bottom end record here i come but i will use arp hardware.
@@TallGarage my Stock bottom End record is 418HP with stock 1988 F150 cam, N/A. And the problem isn't bore size, it's spacing. The LS spacing is 4.400", the 300I6 is 4.480", so if you center up on cylinders 2 and 5, then that means 1, 3, 4, and 6 are all 0.080" off center. If you center up on the two end cylinders so the head bolts on the ends line up, then all the cylinders are off progressively more toward the middle. If you center up on the middle two, then the end cylinders will have valves hitting the bores. When I did the ones for mine, I cut the head in six sections and welded up the faces to re-set the bore spacing to 4.480". You will need to weld up the gaps under the intake ports as well, and re-route the water into the head, as the water passages under the intake ports do not line up. Pushrods will run outside the block at the deck surface, and you either need to braze up the edge of the deck or machine a LOT off the deck surface to stop the oil leaks.
@@switch2472 Hey man thats great it sounds like you know a lot about this and i like hearing all the different ways to skin this cat, the bores on the 300 are .220 bigger , that should help clear some or that offset, ill let you know how it gose. As far the water ports all the water ports on my gasket were good but the two on the very end that went outside the gasket.
@@TallGarage If you think I'm the guy to beat you're about 200HP under the goal...the highest I've seen is a guy from NC who runs one in an altered roadster, makes just over 600HP on a 240 crank. You gotta be ready to spin the RPM.
That's pretty cool, I am working on a 351 Cleveland head on top of a 2.5 Jeep engine. The ultimate goal is cut a pair of Cleveland heads, weld them together and put it on a stroker 4.0 Jeep 6 cylinder.
Calvin (NIVLAC 57) pointed me in this direction. Lemme start by saying I have ZERO interest in building straight sixes, Ford or otherwise.. That said, I'm hooked.. The sheer BALLS on you guys...no million dollar CNC machines, just a buncha hand held tools and the sketchiest looking saw on yootoob..and I have no doubt you will be successful. Keep it up, very cool work!
Like I need yet another channel to peak my mechanical curiosity! I like this project! Would have loved to have been there for the question that started this project!
Love what your doing, just wish you had been able to use Yates heads for the purist in me but I get the value difference, I was amazed in the 70s when this was done with Cleveland heads and we had some ford trucks with these motors and we upped the compression when rebuilding them I tjink with Windsor pistons and they were rocket ships in comparison 😀
And I'm over here still wishing they would make a modern Cleveland but now that everyone is jumping on the ev bandwagon and killing off the ice engine sadly it will never happen.Sorry,great idea and video.
They USED to take 351 Cleveland 4V heads and cut one in the middle the middle and cut the ends off the other, then turn the middle section and weld it all up for a 351C 4 bbl headed 300L6, of course they used to bore and stroke the hell out of them as well.
I noticed that scraper your were using, it reminds me of how I made my own scraper using a very heavy ga stainless steel Hyde scraper I squared up the edge to something like 87° not square but perfect for scraping aluminum heads and blocks.
Australia built a crossflow aluminum head for the 300 for fuel injection and all that I don't see the purpose. They were built for the Aussie Falcon version.
@@TallGarage I have thought about having one shipped. I don't have a 300 but I have owned 270's and 200's in the past and that 300 just has too much potential. I love an inline six. Butter smooth.
@@TallGarage I have a ways to go yet, time and money. This goes in my drag and drive 53 Chevy 1/2 ton pickup that I bought in 1980. Here is a little more detail. Falconer V-12 head, Custom Weiand 6-71 blower with 2 Quick Fuel 650 DP. Holley 16 jet Nitrous plate, Crower billet crank, billet solid roller cam. steel billet rods. 5 stage dry sump. Mains dowelled and girdled. Electromotive TECs200 coil over EMS. McLeod duel disk clutch, Custom built TKO 600, carbon drive shaft, custom built Frankland Quick Change rear end with Bicknell torque arm. I'm building it to 1300 specs but I'll "never" run it over 1000HP. I'm totally impressed that you are making your own head. Sorry so long. Thank you for your time.
Is that a Cologne block assembly over in the corner? What's that all about? . . . anyways, I'm putting together a plan to do a similar cross-flow Frankenhead on a Jeep 4.0L six. Just getting some ideas. It will be a while before I post any videos. Looks good, carry on. I love odd ball engines and engine mods. Greetings from Alaska.
@@TallGarage . . . Thank you. at 1:22 , the camera moved over the engine on the stand just past the band saw. I thought it was a "Cologne Block" V6. Fords V6 that was in the ranger as the 2.8, 2.9, 4.0 OHV V6's and also the 3.9, 4.0 and 4.2L OHC V6's. It was designed by Ford of Europe at their Cologne, Germany design studio. I slowed the video down and I can see that it is _not_ a Cologne block. My mistake. Anyway, subbed and looking forward to more videos from you as well.
As an avid 300/6 lover (best Ford Motor ever), once you finish this and get everything completely together; have you or would you start building and selling kits for the 300?
I know Cleveland heads have been adapted to the 300 six with amazing results. What kind of power are you aiming for? I would guess 350 to 400 hp is very possible.
have you considered leaving the head in 2 pieces and just welding shut the water jackets at the sawn ends? I am concerned about warpage and expansion is why I mention. Should be a way to tap in and connect to allow for coolant flow that can be easy to work with. I'm not familiar with the ford 300 head design, but it must be pretty bad for you to consider doing something like this.
its pretty bad, im almost doubling the CFW, and i could probably keep it in two pieces but itll be getting welded while bolted to the block should help keep it from warping and the machine shop will take the rest out.
It's cool to watch creations like these come to life. Looking forward to the next videos. After this build what other builds you have in mind. Maybe a power adder to the "Franken 300"?
Hey after your all done you should 3d scan it and make it open for everyone to download we can revive forgotten straight 6s with 3d printed mockups then after you get it perfect you can send it off to a machine shop to be milled properly or you could try lost pla cast heads 😂
@@TallGarage The other channel you posted the link to welded plates on the end of each head before he welded the 2 together and plumbed in external lines to move the coolant across. Are you doing yours different?
Closer fit for the small bore would be the Mazda/Ford 2.3L heads cut and welded. Need special inline 6 cams made to the Cosworth cam specs to used with VVT.
I'd assume the head halves will be bolted to the block and torqued to spec before welding to ensure they stay lined up... This is a really exciting idea and I'm looking forward to following.
What heads are you using? It seems like everyone doing this is using 706/862 heads from a 4.8 or 5.3 which yes it's cheapest and plentiful but wouldn't it be better to use 6liter heads so it's a matching 4" bore? I read the bore spacing on the 300 is 4.48 which is damn close to the ls 4.4 so I'd think that would work better but Id love to see it with both to know. I always wanted to do this since I read an article about a fellow who did it many moons ago but haven't had the time yet.
LS swap Everything. In your case, each V8 has two heads, so only one LS had to be beheaded to make one Big Six 4.9 liter. Now, if three LS engines had to die to save one in line 300 six...that's would be Justice. what ya gotta doo Tall Man...
Didn't the aussies used to do this with Cleveland heads ? I think they would cut them up and leave them NOT joined so you ended up with 3 separate heads ? or maybe I was drinking that week ........
@@TallGarage I bet if they had the 300 would have ruled many a race track. What really bugs me is none of the after markets have stepped in. Plenty of 300's still on the road. Where is Edkebrock?
Yeah bro, thanks for watching, video is pretty bad lol, but I got like 8 newer videos going over all the work I've done so far that are slightly better, go watch them thanks.
If your going to do that much machine work why not go with a hemi head or a overhead camshaft arrangement? Chevy heads aren’t worth that much work/money.
Could be because neither Hemi or overhead cam setups make the power that LS heads do! That why everyone and there Granny runs a LS in there Fords and not Hemi's.
PART 2 th-cam.com/video/CGCCjL7JUmM/w-d-xo.html
Almost made that comment, too. Until I saw yours. 😊
Id be crazy imagine fitting a 7.3 godzilla head on a 300 ford
This is hot rodding at its purest. Incredible work! Thank you for uploading this!
Thank you for commenting
Reminds me of seeing when they did the Cleveland head on the 300-6 This is going to be a neat project. These heads have some advantages over the older style head, especially with the amount of compression you can run or boost very efficient. Can’t wait to see how it turns out.
I've done this a few times. What you have will work...sometimes. The end cylinders will have issues with the valves tagging the bores unless you cut the bores oversize, if you only make one cut-and join in the middle.
To get the bores centered up on the valves, you need to make a cut between each set of head bolts, and weld it up. It isn't that much more work and allows proper porting to make BIG power. Also the stock 300-6 cam will put valve lift WAY up, as it had a pathetic rocker ratio with the stock head. You will need good quality aftermarket springs, as the 300 will rev HARD with 862 heads and the stock cam, and if you get a good balance job done the only limiter is the pistons holding up. With forgings, it is trivial to hit 7500RPM, and with a good quality damper and as light a flywheel and smallest diameter clutch you can live with, 8300RPM was as high as I had the testicular fortitude to go with mine.
Mine has the forged HD crankshaft, there are a few left out there if you call the rebuilders and ask for one specifically. Stock rods are good to about 600ft-lbs of output at the crankshaft, then they start to bend. DO NOT trust the stock rod bolts.
the 5.3 bore is 3.780 in.so with the bigger 4in bore i hope itll clear, i made a lot of effort, so i hope the valves will clear, fingers crossed, stock bottom end record here i come but i will use arp hardware.
@@TallGarage my Stock bottom End record is 418HP with stock 1988 F150 cam, N/A. And the problem isn't bore size, it's spacing. The LS spacing is 4.400", the 300I6 is 4.480", so if you center up on cylinders 2 and 5, then that means 1, 3, 4, and 6 are all 0.080" off center. If you center up on the two end cylinders so the head bolts on the ends line up, then all the cylinders are off progressively more toward the middle. If you center up on the middle two, then the end cylinders will have valves hitting the bores. When I did the ones for mine, I cut the head in six sections and welded up the faces to re-set the bore spacing to 4.480". You will need to weld up the gaps under the intake ports as well, and re-route the water into the head, as the water passages under the intake ports do not line up. Pushrods will run outside the block at the deck surface, and you either need to braze up the edge of the deck or machine a LOT off the deck surface to stop the oil leaks.
@@switch2472 Hey man thats great it sounds like you know a lot about this and i like hearing all the different ways to skin this cat, the bores on the 300 are .220 bigger , that should help clear some or that offset, ill let you know how it gose.
As far the water ports all the water ports on my gasket were good but the two on the very end that went outside the gasket.
@@switch2472 also im going to need some proof on that stock bottom end pass so know what too beat.
@@TallGarage If you think I'm the guy to beat you're about 200HP under the goal...the highest I've seen is a guy from NC who runs one in an altered roadster, makes just over 600HP on a 240 crank. You gotta be ready to spin the RPM.
That's pretty cool, I am working on a 351 Cleveland head on top of a 2.5 Jeep engine. The ultimate goal is cut a pair of Cleveland heads, weld them together and put it on a stroker 4.0 Jeep 6 cylinder.
Calvin (NIVLAC 57) pointed me in this direction.
Lemme start by saying I have ZERO interest in building straight sixes, Ford or otherwise..
That said, I'm hooked..
The sheer BALLS on you guys...no million dollar CNC machines, just a buncha hand held tools and the sketchiest looking saw on yootoob..and I have no doubt you will be successful.
Keep it up, very cool work!
Thanks for the awesome comment, helps keep me motivated
Like I need yet another channel to peak my mechanical curiosity! I like this project! Would have loved to have been there for the question that started this project!
thanks man
Ford 7bearing bottom end and chevy top? Genius.
There’s a company in Australia that makes a v12 ls block, I bet you could buy a head from them that’s solid and ready to bolt on
More then one way to skin a cat!
I absolutely love Frankenstein stuff like this! Looks like you’re doing good work. Can’t wait to see the final product
Thanks man
I want to put two volvo 4 banger 16 v heads on a LS. Funny I run into you here!
If I m not mistaken wood chippers, forklifts, etc all used the forged crank
If it works RUN IT brother 👍
Thats what i like too hear!
Love what your doing, just wish you had been able to use Yates heads for the purist in me but I get the value difference, I was amazed in the 70s when this was done with Cleveland heads and we had some ford trucks with these motors and we upped the compression when rebuilding them I tjink with Windsor pistons and they were rocket ships in comparison 😀
Thanks for the comment
And I'm over here still wishing they would make a modern Cleveland but now that everyone is jumping on the ev bandwagon and killing off the ice engine sadly it will never happen.Sorry,great idea and video.
thanks man
Does this make the engine a Chord?
Fevy
They USED to take 351 Cleveland 4V heads and cut one in the middle the middle and cut the ends off the other, then turn the middle section and weld it all up for a 351C 4 bbl headed 300L6, of course they used to bore and stroke the hell out of them as well.
Bad to the bone machines!
I noticed that scraper your were using, it reminds me of how I made my own scraper using a very heavy ga stainless steel Hyde scraper I squared up the edge to something like 87° not square but perfect for scraping aluminum heads and blocks.
Your so much more patient than I am cleaning that deck surface, I would have a disc or something cleaning it up in a few min
I know right
I really hope for your sake that this works. Ls heads flow almost certainly better than anything else from that era.
Check out part 2 facebook.com/100029630558820/videos/560547105998067/
Australia built a crossflow aluminum head for the 300 for fuel injection and all that I don't see the purpose. They were built for the Aussie Falcon version.
To bad i dont live in Oz
@@TallGarage I have thought about having one shipped. I don't have a 300 but I have owned 270's and 200's in the past and that 300 just has too much potential. I love an inline six. Butter smooth.
I'd love to see this done! Cross flow 300-6. Should be a slick runner.
Little progress every day.
I have seen it.
Awesome technology at work here.
Great content.
Thanks EM.
Thanks for watching!
I'm putting a Ryan Falconer V-12 (aircraft racing engine) head n my 6-71 blown Chevy I6 292.
That sounds like something i wanna see!
@@TallGarage I have a ways to go yet, time and money. This goes in my drag and drive 53 Chevy 1/2 ton pickup that I bought in 1980. Here is a little more detail. Falconer V-12 head, Custom Weiand 6-71 blower with 2 Quick Fuel 650 DP. Holley 16 jet Nitrous plate, Crower billet crank, billet solid roller cam. steel billet rods. 5 stage dry sump. Mains dowelled and girdled. Electromotive TECs200 coil over EMS. McLeod duel disk clutch, Custom built TKO 600, carbon drive shaft, custom built Frankland Quick Change rear end with Bicknell torque arm. I'm building it to 1300 specs but I'll "never" run it over 1000HP. I'm totally impressed that you are making your own head. Sorry so long. Thank you for your time.
got me thinking of adapting 2.2 k car heads to a slant 6 overhead cams and all
Where there's a will there's a way.
Ambitious - I love it and really looking forward to the next segment!
Thank you!
Try a few Australian sites… they’d had a guy build a DOHC for one, wish I could find it for you. Like you’re work 👍👍
Very Cool, thanks!
Is that a Cologne block assembly over in the corner? What's that all about? . . . anyways, I'm putting together a plan to do a similar cross-flow Frankenhead on a Jeep 4.0L six. Just getting some ideas. It will be a while before I post any videos. Looks good, carry on. I love odd ball engines and engine mods. Greetings from Alaska.
Considering I don't know what that is probably not but on the other hand looking forward to seeing your project man
@@TallGarage . . . Thank you. at 1:22 , the camera moved over the engine on the stand just past the band saw. I thought it was a "Cologne Block" V6. Fords V6 that was in the ranger as the 2.8, 2.9, 4.0 OHV V6's and also the 3.9, 4.0 and 4.2L OHC V6's. It was designed by Ford of Europe at their Cologne, Germany design studio. I slowed the video down and I can see that it is _not_ a Cologne block. My mistake. Anyway, subbed and looking forward to more videos from you as well.
This is what I like to see.
Love stuff like this! Want one!
As an avid 300/6 lover (best Ford Motor ever), once you finish this and get everything completely together; have you or would you start building and selling kits for the 300?
enough money and anything is possible
Will u try a toyota 20r/22r block next 🤔
I know Cleveland heads have been adapted to the 300 six with amazing results. What kind of power are you aiming for? I would guess 350 to 400 hp is very possible.
itll be seeing boost pretty fast, looking forward to see what it dose NA tho. going to set the stock bottom end NA 1/4 mile record before i go boost.
Surely someone could make a head, there has to be demand. What about a 25 or 50 (?) Group buy?
have you considered leaving the head in 2 pieces and just welding shut the water jackets at the sawn ends? I am concerned about warpage and expansion is why I mention. Should be a way to tap in and connect to allow for coolant flow that can be easy to work with. I'm not familiar with the ford 300 head design, but it must be pretty bad for you to consider doing something like this.
its pretty bad, im almost doubling the CFW, and i could probably keep it in two pieces but itll be getting welded while bolted to the block should help keep it from warping and the machine shop will take the rest out.
It's cool to watch creations like these come to life. Looking forward to the next videos. After this build what other builds you have in mind. Maybe a power adder to the "Franken 300"?
That 300 will get a turbo eventually
@@TallGarage I was thinking that it might, even though superchargers have become pretty popular with inline sixes these days.
@@jerryhaverstick5259 they are cool but there just too much money vs a turbo.
Make the head where I can just bolt it right on my Ford 300 engine. Make it gain at least 200 horsepower and I will pay pretty much what you ask.
Once I have a running engine I'll be taking orders
I bet you can do this to any engine, even a 750 cc Reliant or Austin B-Series. What would it take to put LS head on the Austin B-Series?
Idk, what's the bore spacing ?
Hey after your all done you should 3d scan it and make it open for everyone to download we can revive forgotten straight 6s with 3d printed mockups then after you get it perfect you can send it off to a machine shop to be milled properly or you could try lost pla cast heads 😂
Maybe one day
Bore spacing different by 4.47 verses 4.40 inches for each cylinder.
4.480 on the BB6
@@thegdfp6447 Yep. I got it wrong again. 4.48✅
I took care of that
Love the carbon scrapers! Nice video
they work so well.
Good job, you did it! What are you going to do with the coolant passages?
should seal up when its welded.
@@TallGarage
The other channel you posted the link to welded plates on the end of each head before he welded the 2 together and plumbed in external lines to move the coolant across. Are you doing yours different?
@@itseithergonnaworkoritaint7852 yes, i dont think plating these is necessary but i could be wrong.
Dang man, that’s something I would never attempt!! Cudoes to you sir!!👍👊
thanks man, means a lot
took the words right out to my mouth! lol. Way cool Tall Garage!
@@BareRoseGarage You guys are selling yourselves short, if you wanna do me a solid and share the video to your community page i would owe you one lol
Ten speed is he GM/Ford combo would be perfect for this build
Thinking a 4L80e
damn, that is cool, now I really want to do a Slant 6 with a Hemi head!
Closer fit for the small bore would be the Mazda/Ford 2.3L heads cut and welded. Need special inline 6 cams made to the Cosworth cam specs to used with VVT.
this is an interested comment i missed\
What size carb you plan to run ?
Fuel injection
I'd assume the head halves will be bolted to the block and torqued to spec before welding to ensure they stay lined up...
This is a really exciting idea and I'm looking forward to following.
You would assume correct.
What pistons are you planning to use? I heard that if you vote your block 390 feet pistons will work nicely.
Bottom end is all stock until I beat the stock bottom end quarter mile record
Would love to see power figures for this project, and for someone to make ready heads available to purchase.
You and me both!
Group buy??
Pretty cool idea. Hope it works.
I hope so too!
Was this similarity stumbled on or what? Enquiring minds want to know.
Where can I buy this?
dont think you can boss.
What heads are you using? It seems like everyone doing this is using 706/862 heads from a 4.8 or 5.3 which yes it's cheapest and plentiful but wouldn't it be better to use 6liter heads so it's a matching 4" bore? I read the bore spacing on the 300 is 4.48 which is damn close to the ls 4.4 so I'd think that would work better but Id love to see it with both to know. I always wanted to do this since I read an article about a fellow who did it many moons ago but haven't had the time yet.
317 casting heads are what im using, super cheap
LS swap Everything. In your case, each V8 has two heads, so only one LS had to be beheaded to make one Big Six 4.9 liter. Now, if three LS engines had to die to save one in line 300 six...that's would be Justice. what ya gotta doo Tall Man...
no LS guys want 317 casting heads
LS NO THANKS
@@BronsonOsborneTranslation: I'm Slow.
All the Ford boys buying up all the LS to make there Fords go fast.
This is greaaat
Crazy but I like it!!😁
I'm glad you like it man, i must be doing something right
Hell yeah!
That’s really cool.
almost looks professional.... you gonna have josh weld it? lol
nah he'd say something like, its to easy for him
Amazing!!! 😁
Thank you
Didn't the aussies used to do this with Cleveland heads ? I think they would cut them up and leave them NOT joined so you ended up with 3 separate heads ? or maybe I was drinking that week ........
i think they would braze them together
@@TallGarage furnace brazing can be used with iron heads, wish I knew someone/somewhere that did this
@@TallGarageWelding steel to a head works great. It can stretch without cracking.Id try capping the ends. Sounds like a challenge.
Yes there's someone that raced at El mirage probably 30 years ago 4v heads with Weber carbs or hilborn stacks. Baddass for what it was
try Glidden Racing, whiteland, Indiana
Can I buy a head thks
Maybe one day once i get the kinks worked out!
I seen a video of a guy who already done that
I seen a guy eat a sandwich once.
In here from the Driveway Engineer group. Nice work! Looking forward to seeing how this works out. 👍
thanks man, jr is awesome for letting people know. about my lil project.
Your just making a ford gooder
Yep!
Made Ford proud by the Chevy crowd!
I never understood why Ford didn't make a decent set of heads for this engine.
Me either boss
@@TallGarage I bet if they had the 300 would have ruled many a race track. What really bugs me is none of the after markets have stepped in. Plenty of 300's still on the road. Where is Edkebrock?
Really!!! Wth.
$100 says you don't make anything close to the HP I've seen other channels make from a real Ford 300, ;-)
ill take that bet!
But why??
Two kinds of people in this world, the "Why" People and the "Why not' people.
Great idea , terrible camera work, can’t see what you doing without repositioning view
Yeah bro, thanks for watching, video is pretty bad lol, but I got like 8 newer videos going over all the work I've done so far that are slightly better, go watch them thanks.
Whut the hell
Foolish They made a Boss 300 with Cleveland heads in the 70's that made almost 700HP. That you will never come close to.
"whoever says, ‘You fool,’ shall be guilty enough to go into the fiery hell.”
dude....... you cut right thru the valve seat....... its never gonna be true again especially under heat and load......... HAVE FUUN!!
thermal expansion isn't a ghost ......it's physics.....
unless you are pressing in a new seat lol idk how thats gonna seal
Bro im not going to like make fun of you or anything but i cut through a valve seat on the section of head im not using lol.
Wy Ls it over rated useFord Boss head
Either sell me a set of boss heads for $50 like the LS heads were or quite possibly you may want to reevaluate your comment.
If your going to do that much machine work why not go with a hemi head or a overhead camshaft arrangement? Chevy heads aren’t worth that much work/money.
The only machine work I'm actually doing is cutting the deck of the head to make sure it's flat after welding?
Chevy heads aren’t worth that much work/money but yet the LS is world famous! Thousands of Fords running them.
Could be because neither Hemi or overhead cam setups make the power that LS heads do! That why everyone and there Granny runs a LS in there Fords and not Hemi's.