Dude, I want to thank you for your vid. It educated me in dealing with a mechanic who was trying to take advantage of my lack of knowledge. Ended up firing him and doing it myself. Period.
Just toss the bearing in a freezer overnight, then heat up the hub assembly with a torch. Taking care to remove any abs sensors or plastic (ask me how I know). You don't want it super hot but that shit will DROP in. Then tap it lightly to be sure it's fully seated. Wait for everything to come to room temp aaaaand Done
good job mate , ill be doing my 2004 lancer oz rally in the summer and this video helps alot cause ill be replacing both front bearings as well as lowering my car
I've never done a Lancer before, and it's been a long time since I did a bearing on a front wheel drive, so was it pretty easy to tell if you got the CV axle seated all the way? Good video brutha thx for sharing!
Great video. My only concern for future projects for you is investing in a set of torque sticks for your impact gun. That way you don't over torque your lugs and any other bolt and break them. Depending on the impact gun it could put out a torque of 200-440 ft lbs. therefor over torquing the bolts and nuts and whatever else and breaking them.
+kim jon ill Meh, I would never use them. Honestly, torque specs don't mean much for most jobs. Especially for suspension components. People would argue that it is important for wheels, but I would say it isn't THAT important as long as you don't absolutely kill em.
The shock absorber just rest perfectly suspended in the air...how did you get it to stay there? mine is fully depressed downward and getting in the way.
Mate you are supposed to fit the new bearing by applying force on the outer shell ONLY. You could have quite easily ruined that new bearing by hitting it into the hub using that block of wood resting on the center of the bearing. If you do not have the correct size drift/sleeve to do this, you should always bust open the old bearing with a screwdriver & center punch and your vice to push it apart & then use the old bearing shell as a drift to knock the new bearing in because it is the correct size.
I did some fwd wheel bearings for my girlfriends car and had the bearings pressed in by a machine shop for like $30. Not to say that hammering them in wouldn't get the job done but you could possibly do some damage
In that situation I would have used the old bearing.Don't want any pressure on the center of it the new bearing will be short lived.When pressing in knuckle.
I watched part 1 and this video part 2. Do not follow these methods. It’s cute how he improvised and got the job done without specialty tools, however you should never pound the hub out of the knuckle using a hammer and you should NEVER hammer a bearing out of the knuckle. You can ruin the bearings that way and it’s not safe. Use a press to install the bearings and use a slide hammer to remove the hub. These specialty tools can be rented for cheap. Some auto stores rent these at no cost.
+MattsMotorz i changed my brakes after i changed them the squeaking was unbearable basically it was head turning. I took the breaks off and shaved down the new clips i bought. It helped out a lot the squeaking was gone, but now its back and its the FP side thats doing this.
Well if the issue occurred after you did the brake job, then something wasn't done properly during the re-assembly. It is hard for me to say exactly what is wrong without being there and looking at it though :\
ladies sand gentlemen, this not the right way to do this. Beating on the bearing with a hammer is a great way to ruin the new bearings. Bearings are engineered to be pressed in, not pounded in. $30-$60 to have a shop press the bearing into the hub is cheap compared to doing all that work over again. Metal to metal in a vise is definitely not a good idea either. Didn't tie off the axle to keep from putting too much pressure on the joint by the trans, and I didn't see you tie of the caliper to keep from breaking the break line. You didn't clean up anything prior to re-assembly.
+GeekRiot Hammering in the bearing will not damage it as long as you are hitting on the outer race. The only thing engineered about them is their diameter to be an interference fit. Hammering does not alter this in any way. The "metal to metal" you're referring to is seriously nothing to worry about. It is a heavy duty cast iron suspension component going into the vise. This shows me your ignorance. I don't remember what I did in this video but I normally just hang the brake caliper on something, typically the coil spring. It never falls, and even if it did it wouldn't break the line. This also shows me your ignorance. Lastly, for the axle, I don't remember what I did but I will give that to you, it is a good idea to hang the axle up so as to not put stress on the inner joint. But again, it probably will be okay. People who are overly worried and anal about small things typically know too much with not enough experience to realize what they know doesn't matter much. Like torque specs.
You've no idea what you're talking about. The bearing can be pressed sure. You CAN hammer it provided you're not hammering directly onto the bearing. A bearing and seal driver makes quick work of these. Sure he could have hooked up the caliper....but it's a small caliper and odds are it's not really heavy evough to stress the brake hose. The axle. Not that's the funniest part of your complaint. It's a CV joint. If the joint is good it will only drop so far anyways. You obviously have no idea the amount of lateral stress put on a CV joint when driving. A free hang does NOTHING harmful to that joint. Happy motoring
As some already said this is not the proper way to mount any bearing and specially that kind of bearing, for MattsMotorz and anyone into this job there is some interesting info from one of the manufacturers here: www.skf.com/binary/76-70325/TB-VKBA-6680-EN-0110.pdf It's needed a special puller to do the job, replacing only the bearing will require a press or a special tool to pull in the hub without making any pressure in the inner race, otherwise the bearing will be damaged.
Ruff-as-guts. Your block of wood bashing the bearing in is putting most of the pressure on the inner which would wreck the bearing. Bearing into a housing - ALL the pressure should be on the outer, just as bearing on a shaft - ALL the pressure should be on the inner so as not to transfer ANY impacts through the rolling elements. I'd replace that bearing he just fitted. Also, that self locking nut SHOULD have been replaced,
Never hammer in a wheel bearing b/c you will damage it and most of the time it will fall apart. Same goes for the hub.... press it in.... rookie move lol I'm not gonna lie when I was a beginner mechanic I tried it a few times cuz I was lookin for a shortcut..... Bad idea.... Fail. Then you get to do it over again... wasting time. Just do it right the 1st time and save yourself the time and headache.
FUUUUUUUUUCK NO that is not how you fit a wheel bearing . Look at the damage you did to the hub machined surface for a start never alone impact on the bearing in all the wrong places.
![Wheel Bearing Replacement - Part 1 [2002 Mitsubishi Lancer]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/fvCH4wAWEt0/mqdefault.jpg)
![Wheel Bearing Replacement - Part 1 [2002 Mitsubishi Lancer]](/img/tr.png)
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![Control Arm and Ball Joint Replacement [2002 Mitsubishi Lancer]](/img/n.gif)
Dude, I want to thank you for your vid. It educated me in dealing with a mechanic who was trying to take advantage of my lack of knowledge. Ended up firing him and doing it myself. Period.
Just toss the bearing in a freezer overnight, then heat up the hub assembly with a torch. Taking care to remove any abs sensors or plastic (ask me how I know). You don't want it super hot but that shit will DROP in. Then tap it lightly to be sure it's fully seated. Wait for everything to come to room temp aaaaand Done
good job mate , ill be doing my 2004 lancer oz rally in the summer and this video helps alot cause ill be replacing both front bearings as well as lowering my car
I like how you find what works. Keep moving.. Thanks for helping me help someone els.
Very clear, great job, thank you!
If you want to hit the bearing, use the old bearing and use a metal plate to spread the force evenly.
If you got a 5 ton hydraulic jack, you could make a contraption to press the bearing in.
u have pepboys in your spot bro ur a badass mechanic
Very Good Thanks
Good work
Thanks so much bro
I've never done a Lancer before, and it's been a long time since I did a bearing on a front wheel drive, so was it pretty easy to tell if you got the CV axle seated all the way? Good video brutha thx for sharing!
good job
Thanks...i am going to try doing that myself..wish me luck
Dark wing Good luck!
Great video. My only concern for future projects for you is investing in a set of torque sticks for your impact gun. That way you don't over torque your lugs and any other bolt and break them. Depending on the impact gun it could put out a torque of 200-440 ft lbs. therefor over torquing the bolts and nuts and whatever else and breaking them.
+kim jon ill Meh, I would never use them. Honestly, torque specs don't mean much for most jobs. Especially for suspension components. People would argue that it is important for wheels, but I would say it isn't THAT important as long as you don't absolutely kill em.
Oooh btw, were you able to get the camber back correctly after bolting the spindle back to the McPherson?
bravo
Will bad bearings cause a squeaky noise and cause my lug nuts to get super hot from driving?
You need a good torque wrench.
The shock absorber just rest perfectly suspended in the air...how did you get it to stay there? mine is fully depressed downward and getting in the way.
Mate you are supposed to fit the new bearing by applying force on the outer shell ONLY. You could have quite easily ruined that new bearing by hitting it into the hub using that block of wood resting on the center of the bearing. If you do not have the correct size drift/sleeve to do this, you should always bust open the old bearing with a screwdriver & center punch and your vice to push it apart & then use the old bearing shell as a drift to knock the new bearing in because it is the correct size.
Put the bearing in the freezer overnight and press it in using the vise. Where is your inboard bearing seal?
Exactly what I’m thinking watching this
Good idea
I did some fwd wheel bearings for my girlfriends car and had the bearings pressed in by a machine shop for like $30. Not to say that hammering them in wouldn't get the job done but you could possibly do some damage
Damn what a pain the ass, cant wait to do it to mine
My wheels are grinding when driving forward but not backwards, Is this the wheel bearings?
What about the pin that goes thru the axle nut?
is this comon side to go bad i have the same side and replaced it and within a month it went bad again?
+wisin1988j Not sure to be honest. Make sure you get quality parts! They always last much longer.
Hi I am trying to change my window washer hose lines how do you do that or where does the window washer hose lines run
***** Have never done that job on this vehicle. But just follow the hoses backwards to the pump on the reservoir.
In that situation I would have used the old bearing.Don't want any pressure on the center of it the new bearing will be short lived.When pressing in knuckle.
Did I put pressure in the center of the new one? I can't remember and don't feel like going though the video
I watched part 1 and this video part 2. Do not follow these methods. It’s cute how he improvised and got the job done without specialty tools, however you should never pound the hub out of the knuckle using a hammer and you should NEVER hammer a bearing out of the knuckle. You can ruin the bearings that way and it’s not safe. Use a press to install the bearings and use a slide hammer to remove the hub. These specialty tools can be rented for cheap. Some auto stores rent these at no cost.
what is the size of the wheel bearing, sir, please answer.
Plus i work at autozone warehouse so hopefully i can get a good discount on parts
+MUNCK That sounds more like a brake issue to me. Check for sticking calipers.
+MattsMotorz i changed my brakes after i changed them the squeaking was unbearable basically it was head turning. I took the breaks off and shaved down the new clips i bought. It helped out a lot the squeaking was gone, but now its back and its the FP side thats doing this.
Well if the issue occurred after you did the brake job, then something wasn't done properly during the re-assembly. It is hard for me to say exactly what is wrong without being there and looking at it though :\
+MattsMotorz well thanks for responding ill most likely take it apart and try again.
ladies sand gentlemen, this not the right way to do this. Beating on the bearing with a hammer is a great way to ruin the new bearings. Bearings are engineered to be pressed in, not pounded in. $30-$60 to have a shop press the bearing into the hub is cheap compared to doing all that work over again. Metal to metal in a vise is definitely not a good idea either. Didn't tie off the axle to keep from putting too much pressure on the joint by the trans, and I didn't see you tie of the caliper to keep from breaking the break line. You didn't clean up anything prior to re-assembly.
+GeekRiot Hammering in the bearing will not damage it as long as you are hitting on the outer race. The only thing engineered about them is their diameter to be an interference fit. Hammering does not alter this in any way.
The "metal to metal" you're referring to is seriously nothing to worry about. It is a heavy duty cast iron suspension component going into the vise. This shows me your ignorance.
I don't remember what I did in this video but I normally just hang the brake caliper on something, typically the coil spring. It never falls, and even if it did it wouldn't break the line. This also shows me your ignorance.
Lastly, for the axle, I don't remember what I did but I will give that to you, it is a good idea to hang the axle up so as to not put stress on the inner joint. But again, it probably will be okay.
People who are overly worried and anal about small things typically know too much with not enough experience to realize what they know doesn't matter much. Like torque specs.
Hammering directly on a bearing, anywhere, WILL damage it!
GeekRiot fully agreed
GeekRiot not sure what shops you've been going to but that's high just to press a bearing lol
You've no idea what you're talking about.
The bearing can be pressed sure. You CAN hammer it provided you're not hammering directly onto the bearing. A bearing and seal driver makes quick work of these.
Sure he could have hooked up the caliper....but it's a small caliper and odds are it's not really heavy evough to stress the brake hose.
The axle. Not that's the funniest part of your complaint. It's a CV joint. If the joint is good it will only drop so far anyways.
You obviously have no idea the amount of lateral stress put on a CV joint when driving. A free hang does NOTHING harmful to that joint.
Happy motoring
As some already said this is not the proper way to mount any bearing and specially that kind of bearing, for MattsMotorz and anyone into this job there is some interesting info from one of the manufacturers here: www.skf.com/binary/76-70325/TB-VKBA-6680-EN-0110.pdf It's needed a special puller to do the job, replacing only the bearing will require a press or a special tool to pull in the hub without making any pressure in the inner race, otherwise the bearing will be damaged.
Hammering a new bearing is a great way to destroy it. You should better use a c-clamp or a hydraulic bearing pusher.
The wheel bearing needs pressure in the center of the race to put the hub in only!!Must torque axle nut!!!
In your other comment, you said NOT to put pressure in the center (which I agree with). I don't know what you mean here.
Ruff-as-guts. Your block of wood bashing the bearing in is putting most of the pressure on the inner which would wreck the bearing. Bearing into a housing - ALL the pressure should be on the outer, just as bearing on a shaft - ALL the pressure should be on the inner so as not to transfer ANY impacts through the rolling elements. I'd replace that bearing he just fitted. Also, that self locking nut SHOULD have been replaced,
I would never ever ever hammer a bearing into place.. You must love to replace bearings =)
Never hammer in a wheel bearing b/c you will damage it and most of the time it will fall apart. Same goes for the hub.... press it in.... rookie move lol I'm not gonna lie when I was a beginner mechanic I tried it a few times cuz I was lookin for a shortcut..... Bad idea.... Fail. Then you get to do it over again... wasting time. Just do it right the 1st time and save yourself the time and headache.
Tbh some of your methods were super sketchy, but you got the job done. Lol.
use a press very time more control less work simple
+Andrew Gallier Don't have one.
+Andrew Gallier of course it's easier with a press...... he's clearly just show how to do it without.
and
i cant watch any more
+Andrew Gallier That's fine
Press it with hydraulics
FUUUUUUUUUCK NO that is not how you fit a wheel bearing . Look at the damage you did to the hub machined surface for a start never alone impact on the bearing in all the wrong places.
What's godo
Butchery!!! Please take it to a garage with a press, DO Not do it this way!