Very good video but you broke the speed sensor and forgot to show us how to get it out after you broke it an you also forgot to show us how to get the the race piece off the Hub so I don't know if you can edit this video and if you have video of you doing those two things that be a great help to a lot of people again it was a really good video
Wow I got charged for 3hrs 45mins to have both front wheel bearing done at Automotive spare parts in Macksville NSW. I thought I was being ripped off and after watching your video I definitely was robbed.
I enjoyed this video. Thank you for showing the details. That said, some thoughts: Anti-seize’s liquid phase is petroleum based. You probably don’t want to have overspray onto the CV boot (rubber). Similarly, probably don’t want to use anti-seize in the caliper guide pins either. Use silicone grease instead.
As a fellow shop owner, I also purchase my tools from Harbor Freight. So I must ask, as I see you're using ICON, whom is very proud of their products based on the price they're sold for, do you find it worthwhile to use the ICON over Pittsburg?
Finally Found the video I needed with all the specific details and positions to place parts back together , THANKS !
Very good video but you broke the speed sensor and forgot to show us how to get it out after you broke it an you also forgot to show us how to get the the race piece off the Hub so I don't know if you can edit this video and if you have video of you doing those two things that be a great help to a lot of people again it was a really good video
What special tool is that you’re using to hold steering knuckle to press out the bearing?
Wow I got charged for 3hrs 45mins to have both front wheel bearing done at Automotive spare parts in Macksville NSW. I thought I was being ripped off and after watching your video I definitely was robbed.
Excelent video, very well explained. I hope you could do one of the clutch remplacement.
Does does this model 's AWD version have a bearing or a hub assembly for REAR...Instead of hub can we replace only the bearing
Thank you for this video. I’m really appreciate.
I enjoyed this video. Thank you for showing the details.
That said, some thoughts:
Anti-seize’s liquid phase is petroleum based. You probably don’t want to have overspray onto the CV boot (rubber).
Similarly, probably don’t want to use anti-seize in the caliper guide pins either. Use silicone grease instead.
As a fellow shop owner, I also purchase my tools from Harbor Freight. So I must ask, as I see you're using ICON, whom is very proud of their products based on the price they're sold for, do you find it worthwhile to use the ICON over Pittsburg?
What's the torque spec for 09 Lancer rear hub bearing assy the 4 bolts? Nice video, everything I see is front videos tho.
What is the labor charge to put in the bearing into the knuckle?
Nice video, however when loosening the two sided bolts don’t use the impact on the bolt. Used it on the opposite side
perfect video. Great detail and explanation.
+Trevor Thanks for watching our video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Brand is that puller that you use? I can’t find it anywhere
23:56 I think you mean to torque the 10mm wheel sensor bolt to 76 in. lb. and not ft. lb. Great video.
New to your channel. Nice job. Awesome videos! 👍
Great work thanks 👍🏿👍🏿
+@Godbodyent. Thanks for watching our video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Can you tell me the thread pitch for the bolts that go to the caliper bracket
Good job...
I will try it, but does not have special tools 😉
must be a Harborfreight tools lover like me xD
How about no press involved
why does all mitsubushi always locked up the caliper bolt. lol
The rubber on the balljoint is broken.
A few more cheap tools from harbor freight could have made this alot easier saving time and money.
Gave me number of hub bearing chariot
awesome rust dust
HF tools!!
Dam 76 foot pounds fir a speed sensor lol that’s a little to much lol
👎 TH-camrs that don't reply are worthless
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