First of all... I am not a mechanic. Second of all, I would never attempt anything this deep into any engine, lol... But after watching this video I feel confident I can do it myself. Thank you for explaining everything clearly and slowly so us non-mechanic guys can understand!!!! Especially the details!! Im retired and live on a fixed income, and you people that take the time to record and post these videos help more people than you could ever imagine. I love my 2009 E-320 Bluetech and have not had any issues with it but I try to stay on top of things. Thanks again for your time and everything. Im sure you have helped more people than you know. Take care and thanks again....
I can confirm that a leaking turbo inlet gasket (the large orange rubber ring) does indeed cause major issues! In my case, stuttering and jerking on overrun (rather than under load or during acceleration). Investigation revealed this gasket was split. I replaced it and problem instantly solved! Great video; mandatory viewing for all OM642 owners.
Thanks for sharing. My vehicle is also stuttering on acceleration. I'm encouraged to hear that replacing the turbo inlet gasket addressed the stuttering. My only issue is some of the plastic, that goes around the gasket and gets connected to the turbo, are broken. Replacing the entire air intake is between $400-$500. Trying to figure out another option.
@@vladhmch You're welcome, but please understand the subtlety of the fault I was experiencing. My problem was NOT on acceleration! It was on overrun and steady driving. Acceleration didn't cause a problem in my case. The issue was that the mass airflow sensors were reading incorrectly due to loss of pressure at the turbo air inlet, caused by the leaking gasket. In your case, the cause may be different. if the pastic part that encloses your orange gasket is broken to the point where it is leaking air, then I'd suggest temporariiy using duct tape to seal the leak, just to prove that the broken part is indeed the root cause of your issue! (Incidentally, that big plastic Y-shaped part that connects your turbo inlet to the left and right air filters on the OM642 engine is commonly referred to as a 'batwing'). Other people (with stuttering on acceleration) have had problems with the turbo actuator (google it), so you need to identify the issue before spending lots of cash. Hope that helps.
I'm on my third round of chasing down oil leaks on my 2012 GL350 (only 80k miles, but its leaking everywhere), and this has been helpful. It took me a couple maintenance cycles to realize that you have to loosen the air filter housing, and it also really helps to remove the two cowl shields and the crossbar on the SUV's. That additional working room is worth the 5-7 minutes it takes to remove them.
I discussed this with the Mercedes Dealer and they disagree. They don't replace the gaskets or the O-Rings when they replace the fuel filter, the air filters or anytime they take the air intake tube and the outtake tube off the engine. . Now, I am smelling fumes in the cabin. They can't smell it, so I am waiting for further diagnostics from them today. Appreciate your video and doing things correctly. As you know, the dealers do as little as possible for service even though they charge you and arm and a leg for Service A and B.
@@markojokanovic349 It cost me almost $5k to fix the three oil leaks under the hood at three different times in 2022 and early 2023. I traded it in (April 2023) for a 2023 Lexus ES300h and haven't looked back, no regrets.
Just helped me so much, spent fortune on 02 sensor, glow plugs, exhaust pressure sensor, all down to these rubber gaskets, was causing intermittent limp mode and bringing up codes for things that were OK, just changed these and car drives like new again
I appreciate your video because after I watched it and follow your instructions my 2012 W221 Mercedes S350 became a stronger car. It really made a huge difference. The only suggestion I have is for you to include de part numbers of the seals so that you can get them on line with no need to go to the dealer. Keep up the good work.
I had my 2013 E350 Modification to Emission Open Campaign done at my dealership back in August of 2022. Prior to having this emission modification done the engine oil usage in 10k miles was appox 1 liter with current mileage at about 225k, not bad for sure. After the modification I'm now experiencing a sudden increase of oil consumption of 1 liter per 1k miles driven. I've had it back to the dealership for evalulating why. They were unable to determine the root cause and reastablished the dip stick at full level and asked I drive it until the oil light comes back on which I did and the oil level light came back on just over 2k miles driven which is another loss of 2 liters oil consumed of a 8.5 liter when full capacity. I saw your video which was done in an excellent manor. After viewing your video, I examined my turbo charger area for any kind of oil seapage around the orange gasket and sure enough there is. As your video shows how critical it is that the gasket be properly installed this on is not, it has a large gap in the slots and was not inserted far enough onto the tubo charger with a large gap there as well exposing a good bit of the back edge of the gasket. Worth mentioning, on your video this is exactly the way the one looked that you removed and my guess is probably was not seated properly at the bottom of the cone into to ridge it needs to be inserted into. You didn't reference this when you removed it but it you look closely it was not as well installed properly. Thanks for your video and I feel this is the root cause of my sudden oil consumption problem. Could you please advise assuming I am correct in my diagnosis what other concerns this much motor oil being consumed. I have an appointment early next week at the dealership and it's mid week this week and would like to be better informed by then if possible. I'm thinking the oil the air intake area needs to be cleaned up, all 4 gaskets and or orings replaced as shown in your video and probably the pvc valve all of which were replaced when the original emission modification was done in 08/22 and driven just over 14k miles since then. Thanks
Fantastic instructional video. Thanks! I especially was interested because I once owned a 2007 Sprinter which saw four failed EGR valves, resulting in my selling-off of the vehicle. I am now considering a 2013-2018 OM642-driven RV and wanted to know what to look for in MB's most recent iterations. I know this was a problem engine when it first came out in 2005 and boy did I get stuck with my 2007. Looks like this regular intake system seals replacement maintenance will address the most common (i.e. limp mode) issues the OM642 is notorious for. So I thank you very much for arming me with foreknowledge as I investigate the maintence records of any RV with the 3.0L I might consider buying!
Good video, just replaced today the fuel filter, air filters, breather and the red gasket on turbo and breather and since then I get a turbo surge on release the gas pedal. Gotta chase down everything back, something didn’t go on as it should’ve.
I have done a few of these seals, and I use a silicone sealant to bond the seals in place, and no further issues. If you can leave overnight to cure. Thanks for the video.
I've heard some people do it this way. The factory method does not involve any additional sealant. I've also heard of some examples where doing this caused problems. YMMV, do what you are most comfortable with!
@@idparts Why not butter the ID of the turbo exhaust hose with a bit of silicone grease like Shin-Etsu door seal grease; or Sil-Glyde brake caliper grease? Just enough to ensure proper engagement without damaging the seals. A little goes a long way with that stuff.
Very good video. About the "loosen the filters to remove/install" the intake housing, I myself had to learn the hard way how to to this job properly. This intake housing is a very expensive piece of plastic and some dealer will sale it for $400.00. Mine had a crack but was not interfering with engine performance. Thanks for your video.
Have just finished working on my gl350 2015 and wanted to thank you for really useful video that added a lot of confidence to not only change turbo/intake seals, but the oil filter hosing as well. I was really amazed finishing this up within a few hours, I was pretty sure that it wont be my case as I'm a software developer 😀
That's a really great tip tip about loosening the air filter box. Thank you! Obvious when you see it, but I've really struggled getting the intake back on in the past. Fingers crossed this will fix my intermittent Kangarooing under hard acceleration when hot. Excellent, clear video. Thanks again.
Thanks so much, just ordered all these gaskets and hoping this takes care of the derate issue... Noticed the ccv was very loose but glad to replace all.
I wish I had this video surface 4 months ago. It’s very helpful I will try to change the O ring on turbo out pipe which could be the cusses of all the oil sprayed around turbo. My 09 gl320 has all these symptoms plus now diesel sitting on fuel filter and around. All this is cussing the issue of limp mode. I did change the breather pcv valve and orange seal plus the fuel filter intake pipe but not much help. I will update after all this fixes. Thanks
I just changed these seals on my car I put both seals onto the air intake first the pushed the ccv pipe in fully and then pushed onto the turbo but man was it tight going onto the turbo it took a lot of effort to get it fully home. Also I changed the air filters and getting the filter boxes back into place was a right pain in the arse. If you change the fuel pump as I did don’t forget to get new hose clamps and inspect the hoses for splits before refitting
Also, to prevent the swirl motor go bad, once the intake pipe is removed, put aluminum foil over the plug for the swirl motor. This way, in case you’re leaking oil, that oil won’t go in the plug.
Excellent video. Very informative and well made. Very clear filming and easy to understand procedure. Super helpful video. Thank you so much for sharing. Much appreciated. Subscribed! Thanks again!
Hi, ? Could i ask please where the air intake temp sensor is located. I guess its the two areas you disconnected the wiring from on the plastic part/pipe/. My C350CDI AMG v6 THROWS UP POII2 CODE . Figure i need to clean the sensors. They dont seem to separate from the part/pipe or am i wrong. Thanks in advance. What a helpful talented Fella you are mate. Thanks for the share of your knowledge and video. Many thanks for any advice on the sensor issue.
Nice video! Replaced the orange turbo inlet gasket yesterday and obviously the plastic cracked slightly around the edges. The new gasket seems thicker that the old one. Thinking about what I can do now to avoid buying a new turbo inlet...since I know I will be removing it frequently and risk damaging it more.
13:18 Great video. Just paid for diagnosis on my 08 e320. Told me o-ring failing inside turbo and have to replace. I noticed lack of boost and oil spray on coolant hoses passenger side intake. Car has 140k. Is it possible that I don't need a new turbo. And this video is the answer to the problem? Thanks
if you have damage like that then you have to check for oil leaks near swirl flaps motor. If that oil was dripping or simply even sweat - then motor may stop working and your swirl flaps wont work properly. That will results in LIMP mode. Then or replace motor or put in 4.7kOhm resistor into motor plug.
Thanks for the info. I have a 2010 MB ML350 Bluetec. I really like the car except for all the leaks this diesel has commonly. Black oil everywhere! It is also over engineered with the emission issue. This car will keep you busy maintenance wise and really hit you in the pocket book! It's a beautiful car though!
Hi, thank you for an informative video. My ML350 CDi starts and then dies. Have you ever come across this problem? It runs for 1-3 seconds and then dies. It has new low and high pressure pumps, new fuel rail pressure sensor, new fuel rail pressure regulating valve, new fuel filter, 6 new injectors, new fuel pump relay, new cam shaft sensor, turbo refurbished. Because of the struggling I now have to replace the battery. Day 1 after coming from workshop it starts easily, day two it starts and runs but shudders a bit and then runs perfectly. The next day it starts for 1 second and dies. So basically every morning on first start. Then its dead.
Why is there bunch of oil in that long pipe that goes to the silencer? That side should be dry from the oil because it's inlet to the intercooler, is that correct?
I change the fuel filter on my om642 every year and also change all the seals and intercooler seal well worth it also the genuine Mercedes parts are cheaper than the patent parts on eBay also mine has the 265bhp engine with 2 extra seals 1 at each air filter and for all 4 seals from main dealer it’s only £22.90 and £4 for the intercooler o ring
Ok were can i buy them rubber gaskets bro, ty ty for the info il get a few so if it ever come off bang new gasket any links would be appreciated 👍iv just had a new turbo and new y pipe with the new mafs fitted carbon clean remapped finally running right 😁
Great video I do keep an eye on my 2008 GL 320 The big problem I encounter is trying to get the passenger side of the y tube on too the air cleaner I get the impression it’s short, very frustrating...
Any tips on pushing for pushing the inlet back onto the turbo? I just snapped all the plastic and has cost me £400 for a new inlet. Hopefully it was just a case of the old one being brittle?
Really great - do you recommend removing the fan and the shroud to do the green/black o-rings, like you have in this video? I have seen most people suggest leaving the cover and the fan in place, but it leaves very little room at the front of the engine... I guess I'll google how hard it is to remove the fan!
Depends on the model, really. The SUVs have enough space to do this without removing any of the fans, same with the Sprinters. The W211/W212 probably not.
Hi again. The clips from injector to the pipe. Where can one buy them. The Black death has claimed one of mine forever. Thanks for any help. A Link would be kewl. Have a goodn. Brian🙂
I wonder if gasket is #1 problem, #2 is most likely the fact that the turbo sucks oil through the PCV valve and goes into the inlet itself. Is this a concern at all? I've seen lots of videos installing catch can. Just wondering. Thank you.
I get that replacing the big red seal will solve the fake air suction, but how does it solve the oil problem? Why is there oil there making its way to the turbo?
Great video. I used silicone spray to lubricate these seals. Also just nip up the metal band on the mass sensor box to prevent the plastic cracking around the orange seal. (Like I did and had to epoxy back and reinforce with three sheets of fibreglass skinning cloth!)
Great video. I have a 2007 chrysler 300c 3.0 crd, which has a mercedes motor. I have this problem. I live in spain and I tried getting just the seals, bit I cannot get them. I have to buy the entire tube system. My question is, where can I buy them online? And what is the exact name or part number. Thank you in advance.
Hi, can you please send the part number of seal at 7:49 please thanks I don’t know what to search for and there are other identical seals. So I’m confused Thanks
Hello, all. I am owner of 2012 facelift V6 Diesel c300/350 4matic. Yesterday while I driving with 60km/h it stalled/stopped. The car is with very good history in Mercedes Benz no matter is on 12 years and it is on 117k km so far. Unfortunately it not started again. I transfer it quickly to the nearest mechanics and after 30m ~ they said engine is dead without diagnostic or something like that. After this bad news I went directly on other place where people made diagnostic tried to give her power but it not started again. From diagnostic there are multiple faulty codes related to different modules but they told me this can be because my power battery went low and thats why car provide these errors.. There is no errors related to engine as I understand. So does there are change this car to die so easy while everything is maintain before 6k km or it can be something small which causing such big issue?
I had the crazy idea to remap it, my OM642 v6 Merc engine in my Chrysler CRD 30ltr ; also to remove the DPF filter, disable the swirl flaps, and the EGR to be shut down, In the hope I would get , umm about 268 to 275 BHP. The DPF, EGR and the swirl flaps are all done. But I was then told they could not remap it. Um and why, "I said" ? .. it seems the turbo boost is down, they said its is probably, due to an air leak in a hose or something, as its kind of unstable,but well below the boost it shoud be; also to add to the fun, it seems the fuel pressure is also down, it seems to them, probably due to carbon choke build up, and maybe a bad seal in the inlet manifolds, OOOhh deep joy. But they ran it up on the rolling road, even with with DPF and other bits done, max output is about 197 bhp at the shaft, should be 218bhp, anway its only around 157.8 bhp at the wheels, with 498 of torque. Ouch, way off the line from standard. They suggested I find a garage, to change turbo noses or find where the air leak is coming from and fix it, and also have the inlet manifolds taken out, cleaned out of all the carbon crap, and to put new seals and bits in, and reinstall. Not sure of that cost, I would think its a good 1 or 2 days for a mechanic, but I maybe wrong. Anyway, they said, after I have had this done, bring it back and they should be able to complete the remap, hopefully giving me around 260+BHP.Question is, has anyone had the same or similar types of problems or has anyone any advice / or, input regard these problem, how long does this job take;? thanks….costs...
Thanks for a great video!! I started to work on mine. I bought a new gasket and then realized that a couple of the plastic parts that go around the gasket of the air intake tube that connects to the turbo are in fact broken. I don't want to replace the whole Y pipe airflow, any suggestion on what I can do?
Hello IDParts, good afternoon Help me in this situation please. I have a jeep grandCherokee 2009 crd 3.0 limited (OM642 Mercedes) after driving 30km shows failure in the fuel sensor past failure P2264 Fuel/water separator sensor circuit. I have already changed the sensor and filters and the obd always shows the same fault as before. could you give me some guidance? it makes me crazy
So I am looking at a 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the OM642 and it has 150,000 miles. What should I look for when inspecting the engine and would you recommend getting one with that many miles? Thank you!
Awesome video! I have a 2009 E320 Bluetec (with 85,000 miles) that has been going into limp mode. I’ve spent a lot $$$$ on repairs, and still have the problem. The codes I am getting is 2359.001 (low boost), and code p2A00 which deals with Oxygen sensor, B1, #1 which I had replaced, but code remains. I’m taking it for a smoke test next week to check for leaks. Do the issues in this video have anything to do with low boost? I would also like to ask if I should have a manual regen done, only after any leaks that may show up are repaired of course? I would greatly appreciate any advice you can give me. 🙏🏻❤️🙏🏻
I have a c200 1.6 diesel, does anyone know the correct position of the green seal ring on the outlet to the intercooler? It has a groove in it and can’t remember what way I took it out, I’m getting oil spray exactly as mentioned in this video, thanks
What never seems explained in videos on these seals is how so much engine OIL is getting in or trying to escape from what is supposed to be an AIR duct.
I have an old 2006 Grand Cherokee with the OM642 engine. It is running sluggish, and stalls every now and then. There is also a bit of smoke (looks whitish/blue) when sitting in traffic or pulling away. Along with that, there is a smell of diesel in the cabin! Does anyone know if these seals are faulty it would cause all these problems? A quick inspection, and it looks as though the main large seal is a bit squashed in the turbo.
First of all... I am not a mechanic. Second of all, I would never attempt anything this deep into any engine, lol... But after watching this video I feel confident I can do it myself. Thank you for explaining everything clearly and slowly so us non-mechanic guys can understand!!!! Especially the details!! Im retired and live on a fixed income, and you people that take the time to record and post these videos help more people than you could ever imagine. I love my 2009 E-320 Bluetech and have not had any issues with it but I try to stay on top of things. Thanks again for your time and everything. Im sure you have helped more people than you know. Take care and thanks again....
I can confirm that a leaking turbo inlet gasket (the large orange rubber ring) does indeed cause major issues! In my case, stuttering and jerking on overrun (rather than under load or during acceleration). Investigation revealed this gasket was split. I replaced it and problem instantly solved! Great video; mandatory viewing for all OM642 owners.
Thanks for sharing. My vehicle is also stuttering on acceleration. I'm encouraged to hear that replacing the turbo inlet gasket addressed the stuttering. My only issue is some of the plastic, that goes around the gasket and gets connected to the turbo, are broken. Replacing the entire air intake is between $400-$500. Trying to figure out another option.
@@vladhmch
You're welcome, but please understand the subtlety of the fault I was experiencing. My problem was NOT on acceleration! It was on overrun and steady driving. Acceleration didn't cause a problem in my case. The issue was that the mass airflow sensors were reading incorrectly due to loss of pressure at the turbo air inlet, caused by the leaking gasket. In your case, the cause may be different. if the pastic part that encloses your orange gasket is broken to the point where it is leaking air, then I'd suggest temporariiy using duct tape to seal the leak, just to prove that the broken part is indeed the root cause of your issue! (Incidentally, that big plastic Y-shaped part that connects your turbo inlet to the left and right air filters on the OM642 engine is commonly referred to as a 'batwing'). Other people (with stuttering on acceleration) have had problems with the turbo actuator (google it), so you need to identify the issue before spending lots of cash. Hope that helps.
@@willcram8350 any idea what that orange gasket costs?
@@MrRoyPacheco a couple of bucks .. (for posterity’s sake) 😊
I'm on my third round of chasing down oil leaks on my 2012 GL350 (only 80k miles, but its leaking everywhere), and this has been helpful. It took me a couple maintenance cycles to realize that you have to loosen the air filter housing, and it also really helps to remove the two cowl shields and the crossbar on the SUV's. That additional working room is worth the 5-7 minutes it takes to remove them.
Very helpful, thanks. The pace and level of detail in your explanation is perfect.
I discussed this with the Mercedes Dealer and they disagree. They don't replace the gaskets or the O-Rings when they replace the fuel filter, the air filters or anytime they take the air intake tube and the outtake tube off the engine. . Now, I am smelling fumes in the cabin. They can't smell it, so I am waiting for further diagnostics from them today. Appreciate your video and doing things correctly. As you know, the dealers do as little as possible for service even though they charge you and arm and a leg for Service A and B.
That is odd as Mercedes factory manual STRONGLY words that the intake gasket must be replaced! Sounds like the CCV gasket needs replacing!
It really is odd. It almost sounds like they want your turbo to fail so you can bring the car back for digging further into the money pit
@@markojokanovic349 It cost me almost $5k to fix the three oil leaks under the hood at three different times in 2022 and early 2023. I traded it in (April 2023) for a 2023 Lexus ES300h and haven't looked back, no regrets.
@@randy74989 with a Lexus you'll have a piece of mind. Cheers mate
Just helped me so much, spent fortune on 02 sensor, glow plugs, exhaust pressure sensor, all down to these rubber gaskets, was causing intermittent limp mode and bringing up codes for things that were OK, just changed these and car drives like new again
I appreciate your video because after I watched it and follow your instructions my 2012 W221 Mercedes S350 became a stronger car. It really made a huge difference. The only suggestion I have is for you to include de part numbers of the seals so that you can get them on line with no need to go to the dealer. Keep up the good work.
different seals and part number for different om642 models
I had my 2013 E350 Modification to Emission Open Campaign done at my dealership back in August of 2022. Prior to having this emission modification done the engine oil usage in 10k miles was appox 1 liter with current mileage at about 225k, not bad for sure. After the modification I'm now experiencing a sudden increase of oil consumption of 1 liter per 1k miles driven. I've had it back to the dealership for evalulating why. They were unable to determine the root cause and reastablished the dip stick at full level and asked I drive it until the oil light comes back on which I did and the oil level light came back on just over 2k miles driven which is another loss of 2 liters oil consumed of a 8.5 liter when full capacity. I saw your video which was done in an excellent manor. After viewing your video, I examined my turbo charger area for any kind of oil seapage around the orange gasket and sure enough there is. As your video shows how critical it is that the gasket be properly installed this on is not, it has a large gap in the slots and was not inserted far enough onto the tubo charger with a large gap there as well exposing a good bit of the back edge of the gasket. Worth mentioning, on your video this is exactly the way the one looked that you removed and my guess is probably was not seated properly at the bottom of the cone into to ridge it needs to be inserted into. You didn't reference this when you removed it but it you look closely it was not as well installed properly. Thanks for your video and I feel this is the root cause of my sudden oil consumption problem. Could you please advise assuming I am correct in my diagnosis what other concerns this much motor oil being consumed. I have an appointment early next week at the dealership and it's mid week this week and would like to be better informed by then if possible. I'm thinking the oil the air intake area needs to be cleaned up, all 4 gaskets and or orings replaced as shown in your video and probably the pvc valve all of which were replaced when the original emission modification was done in 08/22 and driven just over 14k miles since then. Thanks
Fantastic instructional video. Thanks! I especially was interested because I once owned a 2007 Sprinter which saw four failed EGR valves, resulting in my selling-off of the vehicle. I am now considering a 2013-2018 OM642-driven RV and wanted to know what to look for in MB's most recent iterations. I know this was a problem engine when it first came out in 2005 and boy did I get stuck with my 2007. Looks like this regular intake system seals replacement maintenance will address the most common (i.e. limp mode) issues the OM642 is notorious for. So I thank you very much for arming me with foreknowledge as I investigate the maintence records of any RV with the 3.0L I might consider buying!
Good video, just replaced today the fuel filter, air filters, breather and the red gasket on turbo and breather and since then I get a turbo surge on release the gas pedal. Gotta chase down everything back, something didn’t go on as it should’ve.
Bravo. Thats why am asking mr. bloger to do gaskets hard way:)
I have done a few of these seals, and I use a silicone sealant to bond the seals in place, and no further issues. If you can leave overnight to cure. Thanks for the video.
I've heard some people do it this way. The factory method does not involve any additional sealant. I've also heard of some examples where doing this caused problems. YMMV, do what you are most comfortable with!
@@idparts Why not butter the ID of the turbo exhaust hose with a bit of silicone grease like Shin-Etsu door seal grease; or Sil-Glyde brake caliper grease? Just enough to ensure proper engagement without damaging the seals. A little goes a long way with that stuff.
Very good video. About the "loosen the filters to remove/install" the intake housing, I myself had to learn the hard way how to to this job properly. This intake housing is a very expensive piece of plastic and some dealer will sale it for $400.00. Mine had a crack but was not interfering with engine performance.
Thanks for your video.
Your in-depth talk on all the procedures to take for doing this job was very helpful thanks.
Have just finished working on my gl350 2015 and wanted to thank you for really useful video that added a lot of confidence to not only change turbo/intake seals, but the oil filter hosing as well. I was really amazed finishing this up within a few hours, I was pretty sure that it wont be my case as I'm a software developer 😀
That's a really great tip tip about loosening the air filter box. Thank you! Obvious when you see it, but I've really struggled getting the intake back on in the past. Fingers crossed this will fix my intermittent Kangarooing under hard acceleration when hot.
Excellent, clear video. Thanks again.
Glad it helped!
Kangarooing can happen if you replaced the turbo actuator with the wrong one
U have pointed out many things other have not. Appreciate your attention to detail.
Thanks so much, just ordered all these gaskets and hoping this takes care of the derate issue... Noticed the ccv was very loose but glad to replace all.
Working on it right now! Viano V6.... Thanks! Also changed my EGR valve.
Great video! Just had a shop replace the oil cooler seals, and now they need to do this-so I can drive >25 mph. Thanks!!
Glad it helped
Great tip about loosening the driver's side airbox and attaching to the air intake last -- made the whole process smoother.
That tip comes from experience! :-)
@@idparts great content 💪 can You tell me how to clean the air mass sensors in MB om642?
I wish I had this video surface 4 months ago. It’s very helpful I will try to change the O ring on turbo out pipe which could be the cusses of all the oil sprayed around turbo. My 09 gl320 has all these symptoms plus now diesel sitting on fuel filter and around. All this is cussing the issue of limp mode. I did change the breather pcv valve and orange seal plus the fuel filter intake pipe but not much help. I will update after all this fixes. Thanks
Really happy to see this video, I can tackle this now
This is the best video on this subject. Thank you
I just changed these seals on my car I put both seals onto the air intake first the pushed the ccv pipe in fully and then pushed onto the turbo but man was it tight going onto the turbo it took a lot of effort to get it fully home. Also I changed the air filters and getting the filter boxes back into place was a right pain in the arse. If you change the fuel pump as I did don’t forget to get new hose clamps and inspect the hoses for splits before refitting
I've just ordered all the seals. Thanks very much! Great great video.
Super detailed and a good DIY project.
Also, to prevent the swirl motor go bad, once the intake pipe is removed, put aluminum foil over the plug for the swirl motor. This way, in case you’re leaking oil, that oil won’t go in the plug.
Great video.. what is the retaining posts part number? Just realised that ours is missing. 😭
The centre plastic tee section just before the turbo had a crack in mine.
Brilliant - Super helpful.
Many thanks......all the way from London !
Many thanks! Good detailed video, you're amazing. Answers a lot of my questions.
Excellent video. Very informative and well made. Very clear filming and easy to understand procedure. Super helpful video. Thank you so much for sharing. Much appreciated. Subscribed! Thanks again!
This is excellent. What about a similarly detailed EGR valve and pipe cleaning? My EGR valve is stuck solid.
Very good explanation with this video
Hi, ? Could i ask please where the air intake temp sensor is located. I guess its the two areas you disconnected the wiring from on the plastic part/pipe/. My C350CDI AMG v6 THROWS UP POII2 CODE . Figure i need to clean the sensors. They dont seem to separate from the part/pipe or am i wrong. Thanks in advance. What a helpful talented Fella you are mate. Thanks for the share of your knowledge and video. Many thanks for any advice on the sensor issue.
Nice video! Replaced the orange turbo inlet gasket yesterday and obviously the plastic cracked slightly around the edges. The new gasket seems thicker that the old one. Thinking about what I can do now to avoid buying a new turbo inlet...since I know I will be removing it frequently and risk damaging it more.
Heat resistant glue to stop the crack from propagating.
13:18 Great video. Just paid for diagnosis on my 08 e320. Told me o-ring failing inside turbo and have to replace. I noticed lack of boost and oil spray on coolant hoses passenger side intake. Car has 140k. Is it possible that I don't need a new turbo. And this video is the answer to the problem? Thanks
Niice overview of this. I was about to get it done in shop but with this its a DIY. Thank you!
Great video. But if you have that much oil in your turbo, should you rebuild that too?
Thanx, im about to do full service and change both those seals on my C320 !!
Think i will spray the maf sensors with cleaner whilst im there !!
if you have damage like that then you have to check for oil leaks near swirl flaps motor. If that oil was dripping or simply even sweat - then motor may stop working and your swirl flaps wont work properly. That will results in LIMP mode. Then or replace motor or put in 4.7kOhm resistor into motor plug.
excellent video very easy to follow
Glad you think so!
Brilliant Video very informative and problem solving 👍
Very informative and well explained, Thanks
Thanks for the video, I'm going to attempt this soon, hopefully it will sort my problem
At 8:30 I would use a lubricant around the seal to the pipe get in easy.
Thanks for the info. I have a 2010 MB ML350 Bluetec. I really like the car except for all the leaks this diesel has commonly. Black oil everywhere! It is also over engineered with the emission issue. This car will keep you busy maintenance wise and really hit you in the pocket book! It's a beautiful car though!
How can you tell a Mercedes diesel is working? It's leaking oil...
Will also still be running and leaking oil long after most engines are dead
Hi, thank you for an informative video. My ML350 CDi starts and then dies. Have you ever come across this problem? It runs for 1-3 seconds and then dies. It has new low and high pressure pumps, new fuel rail pressure sensor, new fuel rail pressure regulating valve, new fuel filter, 6 new injectors, new fuel pump relay, new cam shaft sensor, turbo refurbished. Because of the struggling I now have to replace the battery. Day 1 after coming from workshop it starts easily, day two it starts and runs but shudders a bit and then runs perfectly. The next day it starts for 1 second and dies. So basically every morning on first start. Then its dead.
Some mechanic bent the bracket right above my silencer. I had to bend it back and close it so it would retain the tube properly.
Why is there bunch of oil in that long pipe that goes to the silencer? That side should be dry from the oil because it's inlet to the intercooler, is that correct?
You are the best
Would it help the seating to use a little silicone grease on the seals or is it better they remain as dry as possible?
Shouldn't be necessary. If the seals are sitting correctly it goes together quite smoothly.
I change the fuel filter on my om642 every year and also change all the seals and intercooler seal well worth it also the genuine Mercedes parts are cheaper than the patent parts on eBay also mine has the 265bhp engine with 2 extra seals 1 at each air filter and for all 4 seals from main dealer it’s only £22.90 and £4 for the intercooler o ring
just 260bhp?mine c320 cdi 2006 have 420hp on stage 2.wana race
very interesting and well explained. thanks
A very nice descriptive video. Thank you! What would the orange, green o ring cost? Approximately?
What exactly does the silencer do silence the turbo noise ? And does it cause power loss having it ? Or increase removing it ?
Its a resonance chamber, basically. Does not really have an impact on lag.
Hey my friend that oil in the turbo you got to change the PCV valve from the crank case The seal at the back that’s the one is leaking
Ok were can i buy them rubber gaskets bro, ty ty for the info il get a few so if it ever come off bang new gasket any links would be appreciated 👍iv just had a new turbo and new y pipe with the new mafs fitted carbon clean remapped finally running right 😁
Great video
I do keep an eye on my 2008 GL 320
The big problem I encounter is trying to get the passenger side of the y tube on too the air cleaner
I get the impression it’s short, very frustrating...
Why can't you put a sleeve over the flap actuator to protect it from oil ingress ?
Any tips on pushing for pushing the inlet back onto the turbo? I just snapped all the plastic and has cost me £400 for a new inlet. Hopefully it was just a case of the old one being brittle?
Really great - do you recommend removing the fan and the shroud to do the green/black o-rings, like you have in this video? I have seen most people suggest leaving the cover and the fan in place, but it leaves very little room at the front of the engine... I guess I'll google how hard it is to remove the fan!
Depends on the model, really. The SUVs have enough space to do this without removing any of the fans, same with the Sprinters. The W211/W212 probably not.
Hi again. The clips from injector to the pipe. Where can one buy them. The Black death has claimed one of mine forever. Thanks for any help. A Link would be kewl.
Have a goodn.
Brian🙂
I wonder if gasket is #1 problem, #2 is most likely the fact that the turbo sucks oil through the PCV valve and goes into the inlet itself. Is this a concern at all? I've seen lots of videos installing catch can. Just wondering. Thank you.
I get that replacing the big red seal will solve the fake air suction, but how does it solve the oil problem? Why is there oil there making its way to the turbo?
Great video. I used silicone spray to lubricate these seals. Also just nip up the metal band on the mass sensor box to prevent the plastic cracking around the orange seal. (Like I did and had to epoxy back and reinforce with three sheets of fibreglass skinning cloth!)
Great instructive movie. THANKS
What are the part numbers for all this ?
thanks for the vid, i have a 2007 blue tech e320 great car..i,m now a subscriber...
Hi, nice videos. I have a 2008 e320 bluetec diesel. The engine shutting off when driving. Do you have any idea what about the problem?
Bonjour votre moteur se met en sécurité et vous arrivez pas Dépasser les 3000 tours minutes?
Did the OM642 get better over the years with updates etc? In other words is a 2020 model year less likely to have detrimental issues versus a 2014?
Great video will be ordering.....
Is the oil in the orange gaskets and inlet coming from the pcv valve if not where?
Great video. I have a 2007 chrysler 300c 3.0 crd, which has a mercedes motor. I have this problem. I live in spain and I tried getting just the seals, bit I cannot get them. I have to buy the entire tube system.
My question is, where can I buy them online? And what is the exact name or part number. Thank you in advance.
Thanks great Video.
Thank you, good job.
What code would it throw when seals are bad.
Hi, can you please send the part number of seal at 7:49 please thanks I don’t know what to search for and there are other identical seals. So I’m confused
Thanks
You could modify the design by installing an oil separator.
Can you please provide a link to the two gaskets/ O rings
Great video👌👌👍👍✌
.
Would these issues throw a P2623 code? 09 e320 bluetec
Bonjour quel est votre souci? Le moteur n’a pas de puissance? Il reste bloqué à 3000 tours minutes?
Why is there oil on the intake side of turbo?
Hello, all. I am owner of 2012 facelift V6 Diesel c300/350 4matic. Yesterday while I driving with 60km/h it stalled/stopped. The car is with very good history in Mercedes Benz no matter is on 12 years and it is on 117k km so far. Unfortunately it not started again. I transfer it quickly to the nearest mechanics and after 30m ~ they said engine is dead without diagnostic or something like that. After this bad news I went directly on other place where people made diagnostic tried to give her power but it not started again. From diagnostic there are multiple faulty codes related to different modules but they told me this can be because my power battery went low and thats why car provide these errors.. There is no errors related to engine as I understand. So does there are change this car to die so easy while everything is maintain before 6k km or it can be something small which causing such big issue?
OM642 Genius at work. Look 👀 and learn folks!!!😅
I had the crazy idea to remap it, my OM642 v6 Merc engine in my Chrysler CRD 30ltr ; also to remove the DPF filter, disable the swirl flaps, and the EGR to be shut down, In the hope I would get , umm about 268 to 275 BHP. The DPF, EGR and the swirl flaps are all done. But I was then told they could not remap it. Um and why, "I said" ? .. it seems the turbo boost is down, they said its is probably, due to an air leak in a hose or something, as its kind of unstable,but well below the boost it shoud be; also to add to the fun, it seems the fuel pressure is also down, it seems to them, probably due to carbon choke build up, and maybe a bad seal in the inlet manifolds, OOOhh deep joy. But they ran it up on the rolling road, even with with DPF and other bits done, max output is about 197 bhp at the shaft, should be 218bhp, anway its only around 157.8 bhp at the wheels, with 498 of torque. Ouch, way off the line from standard. They suggested I find a garage, to change turbo noses or find where the air leak is coming from and fix it, and also have the inlet manifolds taken out, cleaned out of all the carbon crap, and to put new seals and bits in, and reinstall. Not sure of that cost, I would think its a good 1 or 2 days for a mechanic, but I maybe wrong. Anyway, they said, after I have had this done, bring it back and they should be able to complete the remap, hopefully giving me around 260+BHP.Question is, has anyone had the same or similar types of problems or has anyone any advice / or, input regard these problem, how long does this job take;? thanks….costs...
Nice job, is it OK to spray Liqui Moly Diesel intake decarb into the turbo inlet to clean the intake?
I don’t see you need to. The turbo inlet have a bit of oil only, no carb. The inlet manifold is where it needs to go to.
@@NamNguyen-ij1es thanks but it is the only way to get into the manifold inlet
Thanks for a great video!! I started to work on mine. I bought a new gasket and then realized that a couple of the plastic parts that go around the gasket of the air intake tube that connects to the turbo are in fact broken. I don't want to replace the whole Y pipe airflow, any suggestion on what I can do?
Common issue - if a tech doesn't understand how the pieces go together and starts forcing everything togther the pieces BREAK!
good info.
Hello IDParts,
good afternoon
Help me in this situation please.
I have a jeep grandCherokee 2009 crd 3.0 limited (OM642 Mercedes) after driving 30km shows failure in the fuel sensor past failure P2264 Fuel/water separator sensor circuit.
I have already changed the sensor and filters and the obd always shows the same fault as before.
could you give me some guidance?
it makes me crazy
So I am looking at a 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the OM642 and it has 150,000 miles. What should I look for when inspecting the engine and would you recommend getting one with that many miles? Thank you!
The internals will go 2x that easily. The issues are turbocharger leaking and intake manifold clogging.
By the way.... Is it normal That there is So much Olie In the Inled and outlet Pipes
On this model yes there will be some oil at the turbocharger.
It is normal. I changed PCV, cleaned … . A bit of oil always there and the engine working well. Don’t over worry about it.
I have Kangarooing effect on my S350 Bluetec when cold for the first 2 or 3 minutes. Could this be the problem?
Awesome video! I have a 2009 E320 Bluetec (with 85,000 miles) that has been going into limp mode. I’ve spent a lot $$$$ on repairs, and still have the problem. The codes I am getting is 2359.001 (low boost), and code p2A00 which deals with Oxygen sensor, B1, #1 which I had replaced, but code remains. I’m taking it for a smoke test next week to check for leaks. Do the issues in this video have anything to do with low boost? I would also like to ask if I should have a manual regen done, only after any leaks that may show up are repaired of course? I would greatly appreciate any advice you can give me. 🙏🏻❤️🙏🏻
do you have White smoke??
I have a c200 1.6 diesel, does anyone know the correct position of the green seal ring on the outlet to the intercooler? It has a groove in it and can’t remember what way I took it out, I’m getting oil spray exactly as mentioned in this video, thanks
Would this be the same seals for ml350 2010?
What never seems explained in videos on these seals is how so much engine OIL is getting in or trying to escape from what is supposed to be an AIR duct.
The gasses from the CCV (Crankcase ventilation) carry some oily fog with them, which condenses in the intake...
thank you soooooooooooooo much
I have an old 2006 Grand Cherokee with the OM642 engine. It is running sluggish, and stalls every now and then. There is also a bit of smoke (looks whitish/blue) when sitting in traffic or pulling away. Along with that, there is a smell of diesel in the cabin! Does anyone know if these seals are faulty it would cause all these problems? A quick inspection, and it looks as though the main large seal is a bit squashed in the turbo.
how many o2 sensors on the e320 2006 facelift model?