back yard tip...use a pic tool to loosen the black goop, and vacuum it out with a straw taped to the crevice tool. then run the engine until its hot, and start to loose the stretch bolt...the compression of the engine will push the injector up a new millimeters, loosing the injector. shut off the engine and remove the injector as fast as possible. No puller required.
I did mine in the back yard. I had more time than money, and another Sprinter to drive while I repaired it. I didn't know about the injector claw, so I used the next best thing, lots of patience and lots of PB Blaster. 2 were leaking, but I changed all 5. I used 2 different techniques to clean the injector hold down holes, tapping, and the one I would recommend. Brake cleaner, a .22 caliber gun cleaning brush, and 100 psi blasted into the hole from a 1/8" copper discharge line. Rinse and repeat. Thanks for the video. I learned some more.
You did it bro that's all there is to say about that you did it you did it that's the best video on sprinter injector repair/replacement I have ever seen
How is there only 43 comments on this!! I'm not a mechanic but can I really believe a mechanic to do this job properly? Would Mercedes even do this properly? I think I would insist they watched this first!! Oops that might not go down very well!! 🤔😆 Excellent video. Thankyou.
Thanks for the video but I’d like to add that there’s always a risk of stripping or breaking the bolts. Please buy a brand new Mercedes or Febi Bilstein bolts and MB Copper washer.
So far fixed my OM646 with only that tool and new botls and washers. So far so good. a nice DIY job if you ask me. I had the remove the entire windscren wiper assembly and the rain catch box to get to the 4th cylinder. It is a w639 vito van. Do this on a worm engine. Put some copper grease on the injectors when you put theme back in
Hi could you please tell me the part number for the injector claw i have a vito van also and in the past 2 weeks its started to make Tuff TUFF sound from the engine its a 639, I need this MB injector removal claw
Is there a product that dissolves the gunk in the bolt hole & what to use to get the copper seal out if it's left behind . P S very informative video 👍 .
I ended up spraying carb cleaner down the injector hole and then using a metal pipe cleaning tool kit from fire harbor freight. I pushed it all the way to the cylinder and eight grabbed the. The other one I had to use a long, thin, pick tool to carve around the outside of the washer, and then use the pipe cleaning tool to push it all the way through and grab it.
I’ve used my injector bolts over and over and over as I’ve repaired my injectors and there control valves and nozzles and there’s nothing wrong with the bolts and my injectors have done 13.000 miles and they don’t leak so no Black Death. The only problem you might get with the bolts are them snapping witch you didn’t mention.
Can you give some tips on the Jeep Crd from 2005 to 2008. Seems like they are plagued by issues stemming from the EGR, and the gink and sludge that is deposited when running those gasses back thru the Turbo and top end of the engine. I believe those motors are VM and not mercedes, so maybe a separate video idea? Thanks! 😎👍
No one has mentioned not getting any of 'even' the black death 'dust' into the cylinder, let alone some small lumps of it. The top tools for this job are patience, a 140 psi 150 ltr tank compressor and a narrow nozzle blow gun, :)
Is it SO bad when that happens..? Please explain... (Also, when one cleans the seat with a cleaning-tool, is it a disaster when some very very small iron particals from the cleaning up fall into the engine..? And lastly: Can you use the old bolts again..? (ssome day: never! soe say: i use old bolts all the time and it works just fine)
@Bart Den Did you find out. For the stretch bolts, never reuse the same bolts. Always replace them. They do break if reused. Better safe than sorry. They cost approximately €10.
Hi, thank you for your video!. I have a 2007 JEEP Commander CRD (with the M.B. OM642 V6 3.0 L. engine), will this tools work for me too?, apparently the inyector removal claw is for other engines...right?. Thanks!
Faithful customer here, with two related questions: 1. How about putting a thick washer under the head of a used "stretch bolt" to compensate for the stretch and then re-use? 2. Does ID PartS sell a long, slim, spiral-wound wire brush, perfectly-sized to clean the hold down female threads and, if no, WHY NOT?
If you use a spacer on that stretch bolt, you’re liable to break it and that’s a pain in the butt to fix. Treat it like a head bolt, and get a new one each time.
I had black death now after cleaning car knocking on cold only. Don't get it. Om651. I thought bad injectors but not quite. As even I remove (connection) them one by one the knocking at cold persists. Did oil change with thin oil and new filter still bad knock on cold. When warm sounds perfect.
No need to wait until its leaking and carbonized. Re-seat the injectors every 2 years or 50k kilometers as routine maintenance and you will find its easy and economical. When there is no carbon to clean up it goes very quickly. Can't DIY? Find an independent and discuss it.
Thank you for the great video! How do you recommend getting the gunk out of the threads? And if the copper sealing ring is left behind down at the bottom, is it tricky to fish it out? Is there any cleaning product (i.e. acetone) that you've found to be safe and efficient to use to clean up the tar?
Some really shit advice here... brake cleaner does not dissolve this gunk, oven cleaner does but is corrosive to aluminium! Carburretor cleaner or cellulose paint thinners do the job well without fucking up plastic or aluminium pats.
Just doing my old banger now. 40 yrs experience, other tools : brake cleaner / coca cola(soak overnight, over three nights if it takes it - you've seen what it does to pennies :) smallest electrical / watch makers screw drivers to puggle down sides of injector/s, more brake cleaner - more blow gun. Ideally, if you're doing 1 injector (like I am at the moment) get the engine at TDC No (3 for me) (which is 180 degrees after TDC NO 1) at least then you can finally blow out with both valves shut, and hopefully remove any of the 'coal gremlins' from the cylinder you've been working on. I'm too old for this shite. :)
Create a thread chaser from a new bolt or use a 6MM tap. Put some grease on the chase/tap. Most of the debris will come out with the tool. Clean the tool prior to using on the next bore. Clean the bore with long QTips, brake cleaner etc. I used the back end of the QTip (wood), with a little grease to see if a got all the bits out of the bore.
Can anyone advise me of a good mechanic that would do this job with me? I only have this 1 van and I use it daily to even try and mess it up. I’ll travel to him/her anywhere close to Illinois or Indiana states. Thanku!!
Mercedes service did mind after work done has miss fire now they telling me that i need new engine its only 171xxx miles on it i don’t know what the do ::( i am from reading pa i need help some one can fix this
Mistake #6. I over tightened the return line to the fuel rail and it hairline cracked the fuel rail on the inside. Blew the line off of the fuel rail while driving. 1,000.00 mistake
Great video. You just reminded me why I dont work in the industry anymore. Virtually everything on the market is garbage. Most problems can be fixed with an LS swap. Just kidding!
Hello. If the injector seats are damaged badly, can it be cut deeper and use longer hold down bolts? Also heard that the Honda injector seals works better on damaged seats. Your thoughts🤔
@@tezotezo8532 Do you know the part number of the Honda 2.2 accord seal? And what are the dimensions of the seal (diameter and thickness? Can you use this seal even if the seat was not cut and use it as a prevention?
I have two leaky seals, van doesn't smoke, but if an injector is over fueling/leaking internally, it will smoke under hard acceleration. With over fueling the exhaust, at the tailpipe, felt with your hand, will be rough with visible smoke. If you unplug one injector at a time, at the electrical connection, at idle, it should show you which in injector is bad.
I CALL BS!!! INJECTORS HAVE BEEN TAKING OUT USING PENATRATING FLUID AND WIGGLE IT OUT USING A FLAT SCREW DRIVER. YES! YOU MUST USE BRAND NEW COPPER SEAL. EVERYTHING ELSE IS SPOT ON!!! SO NEW SUB. FROM THE 641.. THANK YOU!!
@@mcslug6550 What do you mean by contains it? That the cover will hold the injector leak and not spread it or that thanks to the cover, it is possible too see that there is a leak?
I have repaired about a hundred of these, maybe more using a pin bar through the injector clamp. I remove the bolt from the clamp and then insert the pin bar, pry back and wiggle. I have never broken anything removing Mercedes sprinter cdi injectors. I have also used duramax injector seals in the om 642 engines numerous times. I still see the vehicles for other services but the duramax seals are fine if not better than the rounded style Mercedes ones that I have seen burned out in 50,000miles on new sprinters. Like 1 year old van all stock with black death already at 50,000miles. The sprinter Van's are no better than econoline 6.0 diesels.
I broke my injector bolt installing it. DO the threads go all the way into the head or just the rocker arm cover? I'm afraid I will have to replace the head because I cannot get the bolt out of the cavity and I may have damaged the threads trying to drill it out.
Thanks, it's so fucking annoying, half of these I've heard as advice whilst having this problem, sometimes I wish people who don't know would just fuck off... Do you have any advice about what bolt to use? I think I'm gonna have to retap mine 🤦
back yard tip...use a pic tool to loosen the black goop, and vacuum it out with a straw taped to the crevice tool. then run the engine until its hot, and start to loose the stretch bolt...the compression of the engine will push the injector up a new millimeters, loosing the injector. shut off the engine and remove the injector as fast as possible. No puller required.
do this today. works super
So loosening the stretch bolt while engine in on and hot?
I did mine in the back yard. I had more time than money, and another Sprinter to drive while I repaired it. I didn't know about the injector claw, so I used the next best thing, lots of patience and lots of PB Blaster. 2 were leaking, but I changed all 5. I used 2 different techniques to clean the injector hold down holes, tapping, and the one I would recommend. Brake cleaner, a .22 caliber gun cleaning brush, and 100 psi blasted into the hole from a 1/8" copper discharge line. Rinse and repeat. Thanks for the video. I learned some more.
Some really great tips..to avoid any issues at a later stage..thanks.
You did it bro that's all there is to say about that you did it you did it that's the best video on sprinter injector repair/replacement I have ever seen
If the seal is stuck at the bottom of the hole, get a stick welding rod, put a tight little bend on one end & use that to yank the seal.
I’ll be pulling out all 6 of my sprinter injectors and I’ll take on you advise thank you
How is there only 43 comments on this!! I'm not a mechanic but can I really believe a mechanic to do this job properly? Would Mercedes even do this properly? I think I would insist they watched this first!! Oops that might not go down very well!! 🤔😆 Excellent video. Thankyou.
Thanks for your content
Thanks for the video but I’d like to add that there’s always a risk of stripping or breaking the bolts. Please buy a brand new Mercedes or Febi Bilstein bolts and MB Copper washer.
Thanks for time putting this very helpful video together. Without your video I would struggle to complete this job successfully.
So far fixed my OM646 with only that tool and new botls and washers. So far so good. a nice DIY job if you ask me. I had the remove the entire windscren wiper assembly and the rain catch box to get to the 4th cylinder. It is a w639 vito van. Do this on a worm engine. Put some copper grease on the injectors when you put theme back in
Hi could you please tell me the part number for the injector claw i have a vito van also and in the past 2 weeks its started to make Tuff TUFF sound from the engine its a 639, I need this MB injector removal claw
Thanks for the info, Ewan McGregor. Loved you in Trainspotting btw.
I thought Jimmy Pop of the Bloodhound Gang 😂
Is there a product that dissolves the gunk in the bolt hole & what to use to get the copper seal out if it's left behind . P S very informative video 👍 .
My copper seals got stuck - what a pain. In the end I welded a thin stud extractor onto a thin T bar and it came out immediately.
I ended up spraying carb cleaner down the injector hole and then using a metal pipe cleaning tool kit from fire harbor freight. I pushed it all the way to the cylinder and eight grabbed the. The other one I had to use a long, thin, pick tool to carve around the outside of the washer, and then use the pipe cleaning tool to push it all the way through and grab it.
M'en, great quality content!!!
TOP fella, absolutely spot on with your advice here, Thank you so much for this very Valuable info, Bless and please post more superb videos.🙂
Very very very very good job on the video man! Thank you thank you thank you
Thank you for posting very helpful video
Good useful video ,Thanks for posting
I broke the cover with the removal crawl, the first injector that is
I think I am going to have to write a check for this one. To much room for error.
Hallo,
Schön, simpel erklärt, so, wie man s machen sollte.
Thanks, to say, the right Way.
This is good content. thanks for posting. I'd buy my parts from your group, but I'm in Australia. :)
Great video thank you!
Great tips thank you!!
I’ve used my injector bolts over and over and over as I’ve repaired my injectors and there control valves and nozzles and there’s nothing wrong with the bolts and my injectors have done 13.000 miles and they don’t leak so no Black Death. The only problem you might get with the bolts are them snapping witch you didn’t mention.
Good info, thanks
Can you give some tips on the Jeep Crd from 2005 to 2008. Seems like they are plagued by issues stemming from the EGR, and the gink and sludge that is deposited when running those gasses back thru the Turbo and top end of the engine. I believe those motors are VM and not mercedes, so maybe a separate video idea?
Thanks! 😎👍
My friend thank you very much! How do I clean out the bolt hole so I don't run into comes in the bottom when I torque it down
Awesome video thanks
What’s the best way to clean the threads and what cleaner is safe to use ?
I did this repair recently and all was good untill the engine got to temperature and white smoke bellowed out and the engine developed a knock
Hi, my Vito w639 is the facelift model from 2013. Is this problem still expected to happen in the facelift model?
No one has mentioned not getting any of 'even' the black death 'dust' into the cylinder, let alone some small lumps of it. The top tools for this job are patience, a 140 psi 150 ltr tank compressor and a narrow nozzle blow gun, :)
Is it SO bad when that happens..?
Please explain...
(Also, when one cleans the seat with a cleaning-tool, is it a disaster when some very very small iron particals from the cleaning up fall into the engine..?
And lastly: Can you use the old bolts again..? (ssome day: never! soe say: i use old bolts all the time and it works just fine)
@Bart Den Did you find out. For the stretch bolts, never reuse the same bolts. Always replace them. They do break if reused. Better safe than sorry. They cost approximately €10.
Impressive
Would this cause the vehicle to kangaroo on acceleration?
happened to me, have to redo four times, made nearly all stupid move you mentioned.
Hi, thank you for your video!. I have a 2007 JEEP Commander CRD (with the M.B. OM642 V6 3.0 L. engine), will this tools work for me too?, apparently the inyector removal claw is for other engines...right?.
Thanks!
Faithful customer here, with two related questions:
1. How about putting a thick washer under the head of a used "stretch bolt" to compensate for the stretch and then re-use?
2. Does ID PartS sell a long, slim, spiral-wound wire brush, perfectly-sized to clean the hold down female threads and, if no, WHY NOT?
If you use a spacer on that stretch bolt, you’re liable to break it and that’s a pain in the butt to fix. Treat it like a head bolt, and get a new one each time.
@@CB-68-westcreations How to remove all the gunk in the stretch bolt hole?
Rule number one should be try not to snap the hold down bolt.
I had black death now after cleaning car knocking on cold only. Don't get it. Om651. I thought bad injectors but not quite. As even I remove (connection) them one by one the knocking at cold persists. Did oil change with thin oil and new filter still bad knock on cold. When warm sounds perfect.
Sounds similar to my recent problem, 1 faulty injector
Nice
No need to wait until its leaking and carbonized. Re-seat the injectors every 2 years or 50k kilometers as routine maintenance and you will find its easy and economical. When there is no carbon to clean up it goes very quickly. Can't DIY? Find an independent and discuss it.
SUPER!!!
Thank you for the great video!
How do you recommend getting the gunk out of the threads? And if the copper sealing ring is left behind down at the bottom, is it tricky to fish it out? Is there any cleaning product (i.e. acetone) that you've found to be safe and efficient to use to clean up the tar?
A foamy Oven cleaner does the job for me. Dissolves carbon into a runny paste that can be wiped away.
Brake clean and copper brushes work best!
Some really shit advice here... brake cleaner does not dissolve this gunk, oven cleaner does but is corrosive to aluminium! Carburretor cleaner or cellulose paint thinners do the job well without fucking up plastic or aluminium pats.
How about wd40?
Any suggestion what is the recommended maximum torque for tightening injector holder bolt?
Just doing my old banger now. 40 yrs experience, other tools : brake cleaner / coca cola(soak overnight, over three nights if it takes it - you've seen what it does to pennies :) smallest electrical / watch makers screw drivers to puggle down sides of injector/s, more brake cleaner - more blow gun. Ideally, if you're doing 1 injector (like I am at the moment) get the engine at TDC No (3 for me) (which is 180 degrees after TDC NO 1) at least then you can finally blow out with both valves shut, and hopefully remove any of the 'coal gremlins' from the cylinder you've been working on. I'm too old for this shite. :)
Hmm, sounds like a plague. Don't worry I'll avoid that 😂
How do you recommend cleaning the hold down bolt threads , without risking debris getting in the injector port
Create a thread chaser from a new bolt or use a 6MM tap. Put some grease on the chase/tap. Most of the debris will come out with the tool. Clean the tool prior to using on the next bore. Clean the bore with long QTips, brake cleaner etc. I used the back end of the QTip (wood), with a little grease to see if a got all the bits out of the bore.
Excellent 👌 thanks for sharing
Can anyone advise me of a good mechanic that would do this job with me? I only have this 1 van and I use it daily to even try and mess it up. I’ll travel to him/her anywhere close to Illinois or Indiana states. Thanku!!
The injector remover claw does not fit onto the OM642 engine. Do you know of another way to remove them?
The slide hammer can be attached to the top of the OM642 injector, you do not need a claw.
Mercedes service did mind after work done has miss fire now they telling me that i need new engine its only 171xxx miles on it i don’t know what the do ::( i am from reading pa i need help some one can fix this
As a survivor of BLACK DEATH .... these TOP 5 are not the only mistakes people make, there are more!
Oh ya....why not list them🤷🏽♂️
What are the more mistakes?
Good tips there
How do you bring out all that gunk in the bolt thread?
extra long bottoming tap, be careful not to remove aluminum thread material. Compressed air with a skinny outlet tube. Long Q tips.
Paying $1200 next week for this....v6 turbo 2500 2008. All 6.
Mistake #6. I over tightened the return line to the fuel rail and it hairline cracked the fuel rail on the inside. Blew the line off of the fuel rail while driving. 1,000.00 mistake
Is there a torque value for those ? I’ve looked but never found one.
I wonder if those copper washer has a position like up and down
No, not on this application
Great video. You just reminded me why I dont work in the industry anymore. Virtually everything on the market is garbage. Most problems can be fixed with an LS swap. Just kidding!
Lol,, sounds good to me! ROFL
This is one of the best Diesel engines ever made... far better than any garbage from Chevy
My 2020 sprinter has been in the shop more than the road😰
what has been the problem?
Hello. If the injector seats are damaged badly, can it be cut deeper and use longer hold down bolts? Also heard that the Honda injector seals works better on damaged seats. Your thoughts🤔
Definatly use honda 2.2 accord seals, there thicker and will compensate a seat that could have been cut to much , 👍👍👍
@@tezotezo8532 Do you know the part number of the Honda 2.2 accord seal? And what are the dimensions of the seal (diameter and thickness? Can you use this seal even if the seat was not cut and use it as a prevention?
Would that cause black smoke while accelerating ?
I have two leaky seals, van doesn't smoke, but if an injector is over fueling/leaking internally, it will smoke under hard acceleration. With over fueling the exhaust, at the tailpipe, felt with your hand, will be rough with visible smoke. If you unplug one injector at a time, at the electrical connection, at idle, it should show you which in
injector is bad.
I CALL BS!!! INJECTORS HAVE BEEN TAKING OUT USING PENATRATING FLUID AND WIGGLE IT OUT USING A FLAT SCREW DRIVER. YES! YOU MUST USE BRAND NEW COPPER SEAL. EVERYTHING ELSE IS SPOT ON!!! SO NEW SUB. FROM THE 641.. THANK YOU!!
Seems to me it would be easier to keep a watch for this if that plastic cover was removed
true, but when the leak starts the cover contains it.
@@mcslug6550 What do you mean by contains it? That the cover will hold the injector leak and not spread it or that thanks to the cover, it is possible too see that there is a leak?
kill the music. kill the music. kill the music. kill the music
I have repaired about a hundred of these, maybe more using a pin bar through the injector clamp. I remove the bolt from the clamp and then insert the pin bar, pry back and wiggle. I have never broken anything removing Mercedes sprinter cdi injectors. I have also used duramax injector seals in the om 642 engines numerous times. I still see the vehicles for other services but the duramax seals are fine if not better than the rounded style Mercedes ones that I have seen burned out in 50,000miles on new sprinters. Like 1 year old van all stock with black death already at 50,000miles. The sprinter Van's are no better than econoline 6.0 diesels.
I broke my injector bolt installing it. DO the threads go all the way into the head or just the rocker arm cover? I'm afraid I will have to replace the head because I cannot get the bolt out of the cavity and I may have damaged the threads trying to drill it out.
@@GoldGunsandGolf I just weld a nut onto the broken bolt and then spin it out with a socket.
@@GoldGunsandGolf I'm not sure if it goes right into the head or not. Never had to remove a valve cover on a om642.
@@GoldGunsandGolf yes the threads go down into the head sorry.
Thanks, it's so fucking annoying, half of these I've heard as advice whilst having this problem, sometimes I wish people who don't know would just fuck off...
Do you have any advice about what bolt to use? I think I'm gonna have to retap mine 🤦
And never ever watch porn on your phone while changing injectors