Exceptionally well done. Remember: do not over tighten the air intake clamps at the turbo. That plastic can break easily especially when old. Costly to replace.
This direction was ABSOLUTELY FANTASTIC! Everything is spelled out clearly and with no issues. The clip was a bit sticky, but I followed the process with no issues. As for the resistor - I got a 4.7k Ohm 1/2 Watt version. I have seen that this could also be replaced by a 4.7k Ohm 1 Watt version as well. Vince you are a life saver!
Excellent. Couldn’t get the emulator local in remote Western Australia but I did fit a 4.7k ohm resister to the plug. Fixed the problem and now gets more boost (power). Saved me over $2000.
@@Thecreekysailboat I doubt it matters, the controller input uses very little power, you just want the computer to see that something consumes a bit of electricity when it sends the signal to move the flaps, that's it.
I don't even have a Jeep, but I watched to help support you. I like the way that you take the job through showing every step, showing every bolt head size, etc. You explain everything..."this goes here, that goes there, watch out for this, etc." That is the way these videos SHOULD be done. Too often the content provider glosses over things and assumes that the audience understands what was skipped over. Keep it up!
Thanks a lot for this film, excelent job. I had the same problem in Chrysler 300C 3.0 CRD and I put the 4.7 kOhm resistor into the plug with hot glue and tape and it works total cost about 0,5EUR.
Our merc currently this problem and gone into limp mode. We have ordered this peice of tackle in hope it solves the problem cheaply. Thank you for such a clear explanation of how to do it all. Great job Vince!
@@jezkhan5448 no....not at all, it basically fools the car computer telling it the swirl flaps are in a closed position. You need to get the correct rating resistance for your car though. Forums will help with that. Good luck its sorted ours perfectly
@@Dogwarrier aw mate your star honestly didn’t expect a reply as your comment was from over 10 months ago! And what are those? I thought it was just the resistor plug and go? Am I missing something here lol 😂
The rails that move all the flaps on both intake banks were broken on my vehicle, replaced the entire intake with brand new parts (vehicle still had the original factory PCV valve, never changed, so that was probably the source of all the carbon....). I just ordered this resistor dongle from ebay and put it on, should be good to go with zero issues from now on. Thanks mate!
Hi Gary, are you in the UK? Guessing so by £ symbols! Please could you provide a link to where you got these parts? My car is doing this and so is my dad's, both Merc E320 2008 and 2007!! Thanks
@@bernyvillalobos4381 any electrical shop will have resistors I have plug in 4.7ohm0.25w one , limp mode is off but car doesn’t run like before , sluggish and idle is ruff … will have e it removed and swirl flap delete done by map
@@RalfWiggum69 I have removed resistor and have swirl flap remapped out done no change compare to resistor was told need injectors check as is overfueling and ruff idle could be that
We had a similar issue with a ford galaxy it was the EGR VALVE but we blocked it off with a blanking plate It had the same issue with lack of power Great video vince
@@cidercecil well on the Gm cars I’m used to working on they like to call them intake tuning valves..... I’m going to start calling them swirl flaps from here on out!
Hello Vince, Just did the swirl flap motor bypass in my OM642 G-Wagen 320CDi and as i expected the limp mode is gone. My engine is a little different because in my car it has a "T" intake and 02 MAF sensors. I feel the engine a little louder and it seems that sound like it "breaths" different. Do you find any long term problems with this mod? I used a 4.7K Ohms resistor and i think its a little bit bigger so its probably 1watt and not 0.5 watts as the ones you showed in your video. Thank you for the great video.
You can do the same thing with older Toyota secondary air injection systems that fail - you can install a resistor in the temperature sensor circuit so that the truck always thinks it is over a certain temperature so that it just never runs the secondary air system. Typically people will remove the air pumps and valves as well and block the holes off with a plate, but it is a neat little trick to fool the ECU into never activating the system and therefore never throwing a code. (Secondary air is a total joke anyways as all it does is blow air into the exhaust system when the air temps are cold enough on start to "reduce" emissions by diluting them - lol. That is basically all it does.)
I kinda missed a description of this swirl flap motor in your video, how it affects engine operation if it's not working, and how the resistor would make the engine computer believe nothing is wrong... So........... The flap closes part of the flow in the intake when idle. This creates some turbulence which creates a better mix between the diesel fuel and the air, which results in a cleaner burn. On higher RPMs, there's more air flow and that will have enough turbulence by itself and the flap can be open, to make sure enough air can be drawn into the engine. If that flap is stuck open, it causes slightly more emissions when idling. The car owner won't mind that. Problem is at the government: cars need to meet emission standards, no matter what. So car manufacturers probably decided to impose 'limp mode' on a swirl flap motor failure. Limp mode usually drives the car owner to fix the problem. Just a dash light: not so much. If the flap is stuck closed, I think, limp mode would be justified: car will not be able to get enough air: incomplete fuel burn, more turbo wear, more soot, more particulate filter regeneration cycles, which may not succeed when there's not enough air. I think, this flap has a spring that keeps it open and it closes when the motor gets actuated. But I'm not sure. The resistor is weird. 4700 Ohms is not accurate for representing a motor coil. That would allow for just 2.5 mA. That's 0.03 Watt of power. That will not move a flap, for sure. But then again... if it's enough for the ECU, it's okay. If the resistor would be more in the range of what the motor would use, it would heat up too much. 4700 Ohms would be okay for a sensing circuit. But a fixed resistance would then indicate that there's nothing moving. So... weird value. I think this is a nice cheap fix that will keep this car usable until the next big thing goes. This car's turbo seems to be a bit of a concern. (edited: fixed some grammatical and spelling)
I think the position of the flap is measured by a potentiometer, nothing to do with the motor it just measures the change in resistance with the change of the position of the flap. It's possible the motor still works.
@@coyote5735 If that would be so, then, replacing the potentiometer with a resistor would make the ECU believe that the flap is always in the same position. That would surely generate an error.
@@fluffyblue4006 Obviously not that's why this fix works. ECU enables the valve to open and looks for an open confirmation, the designers didn't think to make it self testing, not an overly important system. I suspect the valve only makes a minimal difference to emissions.
이곳은 서울입니다. 제차량은 ml350d bluetek 입니다. 림프 모드여서 저항 4.7k 구매하여 영상처럼 설치 하여 해결했던거에 대해 진심으로 감사합니다. 다만한가지 팁은 엔진경고등 을 지우는 오토미션 초기화(다른 유튜브 참고)해주니 경고등이 사라지고 정상으로 돌아 왔어요 할렐루야! 다시한번 본 영상에대해 감사를 드립니다.
Great work around they must sell a few of those devices to bother putting a 4k7 in a plug in the first place let's hope it passes the MOT for you like you said let's hope it runs for many years to come for your brother.
Great video Vince! Thank you! I will be trying this on my 2008 Jeep Diesel 3.0 CRD. Do you suggest I order the gaskets as well before I open it up or do you think they won't be needed?
The oil that caused that problem in the first place comes from the crankcase vent valve and should be treated as a consumable, bad diaphragm or weak spring allows turbo to suck oil vapor or in extreme cases oil, some goes through the turbo and some leaks past the seal onto flap motor.
Fantastic work-around Vince! maybe a start into motor vehicle maintenance for some future vids? Or a long term side project like converting an old fossil fuel car into an EV?
Hi A great video you made there 👍 I am having the same fault now ( grand cherokee 3,0 CRD , 2006) My question is, what difference does the installing of the resister do ? I mean is it healthy for the engine ? Regards Leif, Denmark
Nice work Vince I might look you up if my 2.2 diesel Civic needs doing. I used to have that same engine in the old Mercedes C320 cdi that I used to own a few years ago.
I have a 2007 Jeep larodo Australian model - I would like to know if turning on and off the key 3 times shows the codes on the dash board?. I have the same problem as you and will try your method to correct this issue.
They are used to make the incoming air swirl around at certain engine speeds, which helps improve the mixing of the air and fuel, increasing efficiency and decreasing pollution. They are almost always attached to the inlet manifold.
Hello, i have exactly the same car and problem. First I tought tht the problem was the throttle. What is exactly the brand and model of the emulator you plugged in? And how can the car still run without the Flap motor? Thanks
I have a chrysler 300c with the same engine can you please send me the link where you bought the resistor .. I want yo purchase my self to because I have the same problem
Hallo, I have the same problem with Mercedes Viano 3.0 CDI 2009 model, engine OM 642.990 please can you tell me where can I order the same plug. Thank you for the help.
I’m looking for help. Can you please tell me the exact resistor number please. I’m having the same problem with my 2008 Jeep. The dealership asked for 1200$ US.
Hello Vince good afternoon Can You Help me in this situation please. I have a jeep grandCherokee 2009 crd 3.0 limited (OM642 Mercedes) after driving 30km shows failure in the fuel sensor past failure P2264 Fuel/water separator sensor circuit. I have already changed the sensor and filters and use only good diesel the obd always shows the same fault as before. could you give me some guidance? it makes me crazy Give me a tip Please..
Replaced any amount of these motors, takes about 45mins when you know how to do them, repair shops either don't know how to do them the quick way or they are robbing you blind, I will say anyone doing this DIY please disconnect the plug from the side pipe before pulling it from the main intake pipe, if you don't and it touches the turbo housing it can spark and best case scenario blow a fuse! That's from experience
Have you tried a Chrysler 300C? The motor is buried under a wiring harness and fuel filter. A lot of work, to fix something that does not add much to the performance.
I tried to put in the 4.7k ohm resistor and somehow it touched the turbo housing and its sparked, so im struggling to get the fuse related to this plug. Thanks
@@katlegotau3522 it's usually the sensor that is in the rubber hose that pushes into the intake turbo hose that you have taken off that sparks off the turbo housing, look for the fuse relating to that, can't remember exactly what the sensor is but definitely seen them spark off the turbo and blow a fuse, hope this helps
COULD ANYONE TELL ME WHERE THE MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE SENSOR (MAP) IS ON THESE CARS. I HAVE A 3.0l 2005 TURBO DIESEL JGC. PICTURES PLEASE. THANK YOU.
I had both manifolds out, the worst think I done is I left flaps, should remove them all. Main problem with this engine is oil radiator leaks, oil is covering flaps motor, and not changing engine breather that's why there is oil on turbo pipes
Exceptionally well done. Remember: do not over tighten the air intake clamps at the turbo. That plastic can break easily especially when old. Costly to replace.
This direction was ABSOLUTELY FANTASTIC! Everything is spelled out clearly and with no issues. The clip was a bit sticky, but I followed the process with no issues. As for the resistor - I got a 4.7k Ohm 1/2 Watt version. I have seen that this could also be replaced by a 4.7k Ohm 1 Watt version as well. Vince you are a life saver!
Great, GREAT description. very helpful. better explanation than all you can hear or see on youtube.
Well DONE!
You're the best TH-camr ever, absolutely professional output, like a high school professor, so clear, so easy...Thank you very much indeed
Excellent. Couldn’t get the emulator local in remote Western Australia but I did fit a 4.7k ohm resister to the plug. Fixed the problem and now gets more boost (power). Saved me over $2000.
Did you put the in the hol 3 and 4?
It looks like there are variations to this resistor like different watts etc. which one did you use?
@@Thecreekysailboat I doubt it matters, the controller input uses very little power, you just want the computer to see that something consumes a bit of electricity when it sends the signal to move the flaps, that's it.
I don't even have a Jeep, but I watched to help support you. I like the way that you take the job through showing every step, showing every bolt head size, etc. You explain everything..."this goes here, that goes there, watch out for this, etc." That is the way these videos SHOULD be done. Too often the content provider glosses over things and assumes that the audience understands what was skipped over. Keep it up!
Thanks a lot for this film, excelent job. I had the same problem in Chrysler 300C 3.0 CRD and I put the 4.7 kOhm resistor into the plug with hot glue and tape and it works total cost about 0,5EUR.
Likewise. Perfect fix.
I have the same car where did you buy the resistor?
you have not problem with DPF ? after this mod ? offten regen
man of many talents , well in vin
Always it's nice watching you repair car. Also I love that you said every screw sizes - I hate when automotive videos don't mention that.
Our merc currently this problem and gone into limp mode. We have ordered this peice of tackle in hope it solves the problem cheaply. Thank you for such a clear explanation of how to do it all. Great job Vince!
Hi mate where can u buy this resistor plug from cheers
@@jezkhan5448 amazon
Cheers for the reply much appreciated does it Matter if their a cheap China copy?
@@jezkhan5448 no....not at all, it basically fools the car computer telling it the swirl flaps are in a closed position. You need to get the correct rating resistance for your car though. Forums will help with that. Good luck its sorted ours perfectly
@@Dogwarrier aw mate your star honestly didn’t expect a reply as your comment was from over 10 months ago! And what are those? I thought it was just the resistor plug and go? Am I missing something here lol 😂
The rails that move all the flaps on both intake banks were broken on my vehicle, replaced the entire intake with brand new parts (vehicle still had the original factory PCV valve, never changed, so that was probably the source of all the carbon....). I just ordered this resistor dongle from ebay and put it on, should be good to go with zero issues from now on. Thanks mate!
Carbon comes from the EGR . Combines with oil from the PCV to create gunk .
Thanks for this video, I had exactly the same problem, paid £14.99 for the resistor plug and £14.99 for the new turbo pipe seals.
Hi Gary, are you in the UK? Guessing so by £ symbols! Please could you provide a link to where you got these parts? My car is doing this and so is my dad's, both Merc E320 2008 and 2007!! Thanks
Vince, please advise where to purchase resistor plug. Thank you.
4 or 5 years now I done this fix and its still working fine ,I don't even think about it now.
This is comment I was looking for. Wasn’t if I will do this if will broke down after a month
Where can I get that part ?
Please and thank ya and what’s the name of it
@@bernyvillalobos4381 any electrical shop will have resistors I have plug in 4.7ohm0.25w one , limp mode is off but car doesn’t run like before , sluggish and idle is ruff … will have e it removed and swirl flap delete done by map
@@cibo9994 you have wrong resistor. you need 4,7k ohm! thats 0,6w.
@@RalfWiggum69 I have removed resistor and have swirl flap remapped out done no change compare to resistor was told need injectors check as is overfueling and ruff idle could be that
Hose clamps Vince! What in the world jubilee clip? Never heard of such a critter. Awesome that you've made a vid of working on a vehicle
Jubilee brand are the original hose clamp manufacturer.
@@ianhaylock7409 learned something new thanks bud
We had a similar issue with a ford galaxy it was the EGR VALVE but we blocked it off with a blanking plate
It had the same issue with lack of power
Great video vince
You guys call it a swirl flap!!!?!?? That’s hilarious and accurate, I love it!
What do you call it then? :)
@@cidercecil well on the Gm cars I’m used to working on they like to call them intake tuning valves..... I’m going to start calling them swirl flaps from here on out!
That is a recognised description. Used in service bulletins.
Where can that emulator/resistor plug be ordered from as I like it. Thanks and keep informing us Vince.
Thanx Vince, for the informative Bypass Emulator fitting, on the OM642 engine !!
Where do u get them from
Great video Vince, nice, clear and easy to follow.
Hello Vince,
Just did the swirl flap motor bypass in my OM642 G-Wagen 320CDi and as i expected the limp mode is gone. My engine is a little different because in my car it has a "T" intake and 02 MAF sensors. I feel the engine a little louder and it seems that sound like it "breaths" different. Do you find any long term problems with this mod?
I used a 4.7K Ohms resistor and i think its a little bit bigger so its probably 1watt and not 0.5 watts as the ones you showed in your video.
Thank you for the great video.
That's a great tech tip not only for jeep owners but other vehicles
My new favorite expression: the nobbly bits.
It's a typical English informal expression lol
Great video.I eventually understood how the connectors on the engine are locked
just done this to my 2008 ml280 , works great , its been in limp mode for agers , thanks for the great video bud
You can do the same thing with older Toyota secondary air injection systems that fail - you can install a resistor in the temperature sensor circuit so that the truck always thinks it is over a certain temperature so that it just never runs the secondary air system. Typically people will remove the air pumps and valves as well and block the holes off with a plate, but it is a neat little trick to fool the ECU into never activating the system and therefore never throwing a code. (Secondary air is a total joke anyways as all it does is blow air into the exhaust system when the air temps are cold enough on start to "reduce" emissions by diluting them - lol. That is basically all it does.)
Great educational video Vince simple and well laid out for both professionals and novice.Thanks again and keep your style for other videos please!
Thanks for good detailed explanation of every single step. Thats the way I like video tutorials.
Fitted the resistor to my Jeep WK yesterday, incredible work around, would recommend it.
Where do you get this resistor
Any difference in performance?
I kinda missed a description of this swirl flap motor in your video, how it affects engine operation if it's not working, and how the resistor would make the engine computer believe nothing is wrong... So...........
The flap closes part of the flow in the intake when idle. This creates some turbulence which creates a better mix between the diesel fuel and the air, which results in a cleaner burn. On higher RPMs, there's more air flow and that will have enough turbulence by itself and the flap can be open, to make sure enough air can be drawn into the engine.
If that flap is stuck open, it causes slightly more emissions when idling. The car owner won't mind that. Problem is at the government: cars need to meet emission standards, no matter what. So car manufacturers probably decided to impose 'limp mode' on a swirl flap motor failure. Limp mode usually drives the car owner to fix the problem. Just a dash light: not so much.
If the flap is stuck closed, I think, limp mode would be justified: car will not be able to get enough air: incomplete fuel burn, more turbo wear, more soot, more particulate filter regeneration cycles, which may not succeed when there's not enough air.
I think, this flap has a spring that keeps it open and it closes when the motor gets actuated. But I'm not sure.
The resistor is weird.
4700 Ohms is not accurate for representing a motor coil. That would allow for just 2.5 mA. That's 0.03 Watt of power. That will not move a flap, for sure. But then again... if it's enough for the ECU, it's okay. If the resistor would be more in the range of what the motor would use, it would heat up too much.
4700 Ohms would be okay for a sensing circuit. But a fixed resistance would then indicate that there's nothing moving.
So... weird value.
I think this is a nice cheap fix that will keep this car usable until the next big thing goes. This car's turbo seems to be a bit of a concern.
(edited: fixed some grammatical and spelling)
I think the position of the flap is measured by a potentiometer, nothing to do with the motor it just measures the change in resistance with the change of the position of the flap. It's possible the motor still works.
@@coyote5735 If that would be so, then, replacing the potentiometer with a resistor would make the ECU believe that the flap is always in the same position. That would surely generate an error.
@@fluffyblue4006 Obviously not that's why this fix works. ECU enables the valve to open and looks for an open confirmation, the designers didn't think to make it self testing, not an overly important system. I suspect the valve only makes a minimal difference to emissions.
I really like your automotive videos, please keep them coming
Great info about the impact of a non working part
ML w163 om612 same issue, removed swirl flaps and put in the resistor, works perfectly!
이곳은 서울입니다. 제차량은 ml350d bluetek 입니다. 림프 모드여서 저항 4.7k 구매하여 영상처럼 설치 하여 해결했던거에 대해 진심으로 감사합니다. 다만한가지 팁은 엔진경고등 을 지우는 오토미션 초기화(다른 유튜브 참고)해주니 경고등이 사라지고 정상으로 돌아 왔어요 할렐루야! 다시한번 본 영상에대해 감사를 드립니다.
Well I guess the turbo is going to be the next thing that lets go, if its leaking all that oil.
No, the oil comes from the „Kurbelwellenentlüftung“ crankcase breathing.
@@jasperlongman7668 and the torn oring inside intercooler hose. mine was so.
Perfect video, 10/10, unlike the majority of presenters.
Damn swirl flaps are a major design flaw. They are problematic on BMWs too. Good workaround though. 👍
Danke!
Thank you 👍👍
Great work around they must sell a few of those devices to bother putting a 4k7 in a plug in the first place let's hope it passes the MOT for you like you said let's hope it runs for many years to come for your brother.
Do you have the P / N for the resistor & who sells them , great video very informative 👍
You just saved yourself $3k at the shop here in the States ✌
Great video Vince! Thank you! I will be trying this on my 2008 Jeep Diesel 3.0 CRD. Do you suggest I order the gaskets as well before I open it up or do you think they won't be needed?
The oil that caused that problem in the first place comes from the crankcase vent valve and should be treated as a consumable,
bad diaphragm or weak spring allows turbo to suck oil vapor or in extreme cases oil, some goes through the turbo and some leaks past the seal onto flap motor.
What are pros and cons of stopping the variable valves from working?
What is the name of that part to bypass and where do I get it
Super video, incredibly clear. Very helpful
My swirl flap motor packed up , this has been done for over a year now and seems to go better and slightly quicker off the mark .
Fantastic work-around Vince! maybe a start into motor vehicle maintenance for some future vids? Or a long term side project like converting an old fossil fuel car into an EV?
Hi
A great video you made there 👍
I am having the same fault now ( grand cherokee 3,0 CRD , 2006)
My question is, what difference does the installing of the resister do ?
I mean is it healthy for the engine ?
Regards
Leif, Denmark
The swirl valves stop working and stay open . Doesn't have any negative impact on the engine .
Are the swirl flaps stuck closed now? Doesn't that create issues?
Can you show how to replace the throttle body location please or show me where it's located please? Thanks
Did this today on our Merc. with the resistor - problem seems fixed and no more limp mode.
Nice work Vince I might look you up if my 2.2 diesel Civic needs doing. I used to have that same engine in the old Mercedes C320 cdi that I used to own a few years ago.
Doing mine today . Cheers for the video
Any chance you can refresh or repost this video? Or do you have any tips for the L630 (or the A630) in my 2014?
Stay safe and keep it coming 😊
A handy workaround, but will it get through the emissions test like that?
I have a 2007 Jeep larodo Australian model - I would like to know if turning on and off the key 3 times shows the codes on the dash board?.
I have the same problem as you and will try your method to correct this issue.
What does the swirl flap motor even do anyway. What part of the engine does it connect to/control?
They are used to make the incoming air swirl around at certain engine speeds, which helps improve the mixing of the air and fuel, increasing efficiency and decreasing pollution.
They are almost always attached to the inlet manifold.
Hi Vince it looks like I’m going to have to do this to my old Mercedes can you tell me did your brother have any issues afterwards? Thanks George
I enjoyed the video like always 👍
Hello, i have exactly the same car and problem. First I tought tht the problem was the throttle. What is exactly the brand and model of the emulator you plugged in?
And how can the car still run without the Flap motor? Thanks
Still have the issue with mine limp mode all the time after few miles
good luck mate
Hola disculpa dónde se compra la resistencia tendrás el link del producto
Where can I buy this magical plug?
Great work 👍
2nd from india. mymate vince is the only reason i watch his videos.
Well I’d hope you watch the mymatevince channel for Vince, it’s his channel lol
Hello , do I need to move with hands those flaps to open positionn , or just to put the resistor , plug and play ?
What are the advantages of deleting the swirl flaps?
I used a old abs sensor it was giving 5 ohms reading and plug it into the middle to pins it done the job and reset the engine light
Do you know if there’s an electrical diagram that depicts how this resister functions in the cpu circuit?
Hi there i want one of these but i live in Houston Texas, how can i get one shipped to USA ? Any help would be appreciated, thanks
Hi there I've got resistor. but I was just wondering were can I connect my resistor which wire colour
Nice easy fix to get out of limp mode =D I am wondering what the Swirl Flap does now lol
That just sounds way too sexual for No Nut November...
"Oooooh, naughty naughty" 😜
Why didn't you attach the resister as you advised..
I have a chrysler 300c with the same engine can you please send me the link where you bought the resistor .. I want yo purchase my self to because I have the same problem
Hello sir I have the problem with my flaps is well where do I get that inmulator
V8 is the way to go man
Always remember to line up your knobbly bits!
When you do this modification still can you pass the emissions inspection?? (TÜV in germany ) ??
Dear Mr Vince
I have had this for two years but i could not get rid of engine amber light. Is there anything you could suggest? Thanks in advance.
Hallo, I have the same problem with Mercedes Viano 3.0 CDI 2009 model, engine OM 642.990 please can you tell me where can I order the same plug.
Thank you for the help.
Google swirl flap emulator om642
Don't forget to change the PCV valve as well! Better to reduce the oil in the first place 🙂
I have the same car same problem pls what is that resistor called need more info about it and where to get it from
I’m looking for help. Can you please tell me the exact resistor number please. I’m having the same problem with my 2008 Jeep. The dealership asked for 1200$ US.
Hello Vince
good afternoon
Can You Help me in this situation please.
I have a jeep grandCherokee 2009 crd 3.0 limited (OM642 Mercedes) after driving 30km shows failure in the fuel sensor past failure P2264 Fuel/water separator sensor circuit.
I have already changed the sensor and filters and use only good diesel the obd always shows the same fault as before.
could you give me some guidance?
it makes me crazy
Give me a tip Please..
Hello, the link for the emulator is dead. Do you have the name / model of the emulator?
Thank you for posting!
Replaced any amount of these motors, takes about 45mins when you know how to do them, repair shops either don't know how to do them the quick way or they are robbing you blind, I will say anyone doing this DIY please disconnect the plug from the side pipe before pulling it from the main intake pipe, if you don't and it touches the turbo housing it can spark and best case scenario blow a fuse! That's from experience
Hi Andrew ... Could you replace mine in UK ?
Have you tried a Chrysler 300C? The motor is buried under a wiring harness and fuel filter. A lot of work, to fix something that does not add much to the performance.
@@richardhemingway6084 used to work at the dealer, they are a very common problem, I enjoyed doing them
I tried to put in the 4.7k ohm resistor and somehow it touched the turbo housing and its sparked, so im struggling to get the fuse related to this plug. Thanks
@@katlegotau3522 it's usually the sensor that is in the rubber hose that pushes into the intake turbo hose that you have taken off that sparks off the turbo housing, look for the fuse relating to that, can't remember exactly what the sensor is but definitely seen them spark off the turbo and blow a fuse, hope this helps
I tried the link in the description to eBay uk but not showing the emulator 🤷♂️help,
I thought my headphones were broken when i couldnt hear the intro..
same here
same here also
I legit went and checked everything xD
Worked perfectly... thanks for the vid, saved me £1500 that I was quoted lol
Still working without issue? Have you had an MOT over the past 10 months - How did it get on?
Where i can find this emulator ? A link please
COULD ANYONE TELL ME WHERE THE MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE SENSOR (MAP) IS ON THESE CARS. I HAVE A 3.0l 2005 TURBO DIESEL JGC. PICTURES PLEASE. THANK YOU.
It's on The Air filter there IS also MAF sensor
Hi 'Vince'. Great Vid. Maybe make a Transmission fluid and coolant change ones?
Why did you put his name in quotation marks...?
@@RWL2012 Just a goof on my part that's all.
Your link for the emulator does not work. Could you please let me know where to get one in Canada?
How can I get that adapter? Any links?
when was it last serived that fillter look old
I did not come right with that method maybe it is because of my resistor
Which is 4.67k
Do you have any tips
Can you tell what type bypass emulator you used ? The link you shared is removed. The dealer did a oil cooler seal job and they messed up my car.
Google swirl flap emulator om642.
Good practical tutorial
I had both manifolds out, the worst think I done is I left flaps, should remove them all.
Main problem with this engine is oil radiator leaks, oil is covering flaps motor, and not changing engine breather that's why there is oil on turbo pipes