Last one of these i did i just put a 4.7k ohm resistor on the loom, cost 10p and clears it out of limp. On high milers the plastic swirl flap rods are worn out so dont work anyways. The oil comes from a split diaphram on the pcv to the left and there is an uprated version of this. Turbo pedistal bolts are stretch bolts, supposed to be renewed but never had a problem. A lot more clearance at the bulkhead to get at the turbo/exhaust bolts. This engine is in jeep cherokee and is a lot harder to remove turbo. Good one igor, very comprehensive diag, not an easy job.
Thanks mate very good info, I was wondering about the turbo to pedestal bolts as I had to angle torque then , I told the owner about the 4.7k resistor but she preferred to replace the actuator , I can only imagine doing this work on a Jeep I’ll give a pass on that 😉😋... cheers Dave 👍👍👍
Hi Dave look like you did this job many time . So I think you know torque specification turbocharger to the pedestal . After mechanic replace the turbocharger he didn't tighten up and is leaking oil . I look all over internet and I cannot find torqe specification . So if you know the specification and you can share with me so that would be very helpful . I have a 2014 Sprinter with the same engine .
Pieces of shit engines, thank fuck I found this hack after I spent a day n a half replacing the actuator without removing the turbo and still giving the error. And yeah between red and grey wire.
Small tip - cover the downpipe so as to avoid dropping bolts into it! I did the oil cooler seals on mine (C350) last year, bit of a long job. Since then I have by-passed the swirl flap motor with a 4.7kohm resistor. Excellent video.
Thanks mate i appreciate it , I can’t remember now but I believe I have covered it I may be wrong , I did drop a bolt into the down pipe on a VW once and it caused another 30min on the job removing everything 😊👍👍👍
@@donr2686 They stay open as default but I will add that shortly afterwards I reconnected the swirl flap motor as it didn't run that smoothly and would show a eml often!
There is one oil leak on the OM642 which gets misdiagnosed 9/10 times. The failure of the turbo oil seals is blamed for the oil leaking onto the inlet swirl flap motor, when in fact it is the PCV valve on the back of the left hand head that is actually the culprit. The PCV valve never gets change and the oil seeps out of the valve, along the black pipe toward the "Y" pipe connected to the turbo. You will see oil collecting in the small pipe with the first small orange seal and then also on the large orange seal connecting the "Y" pipe to the turbo. The oil dripping out of the orange seal and onto the swirl flap motor is coming from the PCV valve and not the turbo. Every time the orange seals are disturbed they should be changed as they never seal properly afterwards. I dread to think how many turbo's have been changed unnecessarily!! The PCV that fails isn't expensive.
The oil actually leaks from the turbo intake seal, which could mean that the crankcase breather valve (to the left rear) is probably not functioning correctly.
Great video i love to see the stripping down and the putting back together, and it's great to see someone use a socket drive on those hex drive jubilee clips instead of a screw driver, thank you for the in-depth autel scanner shots ... Regards Andy
The Funeral Director 1965 thanks Andy ... I absolutely love mine 7mm flexible socket driver for the jubilee clips I couldn’t recommended enough 🤗.. The scanner shots came out better than I expected , I thought about including it because the vehicle had so many codes , it was a good decision to include it ... thanks for the support Andy I appreciate it 👍👍👍
How's she goin'? It interesting how many electronic devices are needed to trouble car systems now eh!!! You had a meter, a diagnostic computer, a laptop and a resistance box and that's just what I saw!!! That was a lot of digging to get to the part and make the change. But I guess that's getting to be a normal thing to. Nice fix Igor!!! Way to go!!! Take care!!
Grampie's Workshop thanks Mike totally agree absolutely crazy and it wasn’t enough, I really needed a battery support unit but it has to wait 👍👍👍 thanks pal
Great video Igor. Yes battery support is a must. I'm using the Telwin unit. It's a bit cheaper than the Gys but has been good so far. It's Italian made I think. 👍
Wonderful video, thank you. From my experience, what drive that motor to go bad is oil and resistance of the moving flaps caused by the carbon buildup in the ports. Also it wears out the links ((made of plastic)). If i was to go that far, i would have taken the intakes off and replace the links. Also clean up the carbon build up yo save my new motor. Thank you. 😁
Well long job and extra costs for seals. It took me 2 days to clean both manifolds, now I use liqui moly manifold cleaner and is doing his job without taking anything off
What is the diagnostic program that you are using? I've been through This, problem can also be caused by blocked up inlet ports (blocked up with EGR, PCV gunk), motor cant open or close swirl flaps and burns out. Upstream cause is the orange camshaft (cant think of name) at rear that runs to pcv
Hello Cars Exposed good afternoon Help me in this situation please. I have a jeep grandCherokee 2009 crd 3.0 limited after driving 30km shows failure in the fuel sensor past failure P2264 Fuel/water separator sensor circuit. I have already changed the sensor and filters and the obd always shows the same fault as before. could you give me some guidance? it makes me crazy
Thanks mate Yeap that thing was hidden well 😊😋... I so need a battery support unit I had a couple issues recently mainly Mercedes and BMW’s l, saving the nuggets at the minute we will get one at some point soon 🤞👍👍👍
How was your car behaving? Mine is skipping boost, boost on and something interrupts, then boost down, then it boosts up again, and down again. I think i have the same problem
Mark Smith no worries mate 😊... the vehicle was in limp mode generally to prevent engine damage, the symptoms were lack of power, the owner was really struggling to pull away on junctions and roundabouts... The actuator had a blown transistor which probably commanded one direction of the motor so when the ECU commanded the actuator and the position didn’t change it put the vehicle in limp mode 👍👍👍
I'm getting Code P2010 Intake Manifold Runner Control Circuit High Bank 1 & Code P2010 Intake Manifold Runner Control (IMRC) Solenoid Control Circuit High Voltage! Car goes into limp mode but I am able to reset it after restating the car. What's all that about ? Can anybody help me ?
@@CarsExposed i cleared with diagnosed tool and engine light come back after 10 miles , error message was''intake manifold runner control circuit/open bank 1a' but car runs perfect, i thought.
Good video but a very pain on the ass job...but someone as to do it! What is the program that you use on the video that have that Wire diagrams! Cheers from Portugal
Fala pá tudo bem ?😊... A bit of a pain but not too bad 👍 Me manda um email carsexposed@yahoo.com ou mensagem no Instagram instagram.com/p/CB3ArYIJ05W/ que eu te falo 👍👍👍
@@CarsExposed já te estou a seguir...sempre pensei que você tinha género de pessoa latina... afinal você deve ser português? Por isso você também se dá bem com o Luís do lm auto repair
Belezinha sim sou latino brasileiro 😋😜... O Luís é realmente um gajo 5 estrelas que considero um brother mesmo , já aprendi muito com ele em todos os aspectos mecânicos ou pessoal 👍👍👍
I had the same problem, and I mounted it without removing the turbo, it was relatively easy, with a piece of shrink tubing and a wire hanger, I didn't make any video but if there is someone who needs to mount it I will take the old engine and make an explanatory video， my car is mercedes Benz s class w 221
For God so loved his chrysler 300, that he gave his only begotten Throttle body, that whoever shall belifeth in it working again, shall it not perish, but have every lasting life, miles rpms
Last one of these i did i just put a 4.7k ohm resistor on the loom, cost 10p and clears it out of limp. On high milers the plastic swirl flap rods are worn out so dont work anyways. The oil comes from a split diaphram on the pcv to the left and there is an uprated version of this. Turbo pedistal bolts are stretch bolts, supposed to be renewed but never had a problem. A lot more clearance at the bulkhead to get at the turbo/exhaust bolts. This engine is in jeep cherokee and is a lot harder to remove turbo. Good one igor, very comprehensive diag, not an easy job.
Thanks mate very good info, I was wondering about the turbo to pedestal bolts as I had to angle torque then , I told the owner about the 4.7k resistor but she preferred to replace the actuator , I can only imagine doing this work on a Jeep I’ll give a pass on that 😉😋... cheers Dave 👍👍👍
Hi Dave look like you did this job many time . So I think you know torque specification turbocharger to the pedestal . After mechanic replace the turbocharger he didn't tighten up and is leaking oil . I look all over internet and I cannot find torqe specification . So if you know the specification and you can share with me so that would be very helpful . I have a 2014 Sprinter with the same engine .
Between red/green and gray?
Explain it please
Pieces of shit engines, thank fuck I found this hack after I spent a day n a half replacing the actuator without removing the turbo and still giving the error. And yeah between red and grey wire.
Small tip - cover the downpipe so as to avoid dropping bolts into it! I did the oil cooler seals on mine (C350) last year, bit of a long job. Since then I have by-passed the swirl flap motor with a 4.7kohm resistor. Excellent video.
Thanks mate i appreciate it , I can’t remember now but I believe I have covered it I may be wrong , I did drop a bolt into the down pipe on a VW once and it caused another 30min on the job removing everything 😊👍👍👍
What happens to the flaps once deleted,do they stay open?
@@donr2686 They stay open as default but I will add that shortly afterwards I reconnected the swirl flap motor as it didn't run that smoothly and would show a eml often!
There is one oil leak on the OM642 which gets misdiagnosed 9/10 times. The failure of the turbo oil seals is blamed for the oil leaking onto the inlet swirl flap motor, when in fact it is the PCV valve on the back of the left hand head that is actually the culprit. The PCV valve never gets change and the oil seeps out of the valve, along the black pipe toward the "Y" pipe connected to the turbo. You will see oil collecting in the small pipe with the first small orange seal and then also on the large orange seal connecting the "Y" pipe to the turbo. The oil dripping out of the orange seal and onto the swirl flap motor is coming from the PCV valve and not the turbo. Every time the orange seals are disturbed they should be changed as they never seal properly afterwards. I dread to think how many turbo's have been changed unnecessarily!! The PCV that fails isn't expensive.
Thanks for info mate 👍
@@CarsExposed Just realised that Dave Sterl's comment below has touched on the same issue.
@@JamesAllen300 he has indeed 😊... it’s all good tho 🙌👍
Also run the PCV through a catch can to remove most of the oil to prevent gunking up the swirl valves .
@@stewatparkpark2933 You don't need to do that if the PCV is maintained properly Not many people know about the diaphragm issue I mentioned above.
Thanks for the video. My car has developed this problem so your video will be a great help when i repair mine.
The oil actually leaks from the turbo intake seal, which could mean that the crankcase breather valve (to the left rear) is probably not functioning correctly.
I deleted my crankcase breather to siden of engine and plugged hole.
Great video i love to see the stripping down and the putting back together, and it's great to see someone use a socket drive on those hex drive jubilee clips instead of a screw driver, thank you for the in-depth autel scanner shots ... Regards Andy
The Funeral Director 1965 thanks Andy ... I absolutely love mine 7mm flexible socket driver for the jubilee clips I couldn’t recommended enough 🤗.. The scanner shots came out better than I expected , I thought about including it because the vehicle had so many codes , it was a good decision to include it ... thanks for the support Andy I appreciate it 👍👍👍
Mate the information is great. Love it mick Australia 🇦🇺
Well done clever lad!
Very professional work!
professional man
Très très bonne vidéo, exactement le même problème merci! Very good vidéo, exactly same problème thank you very much !
👍👍👍🙌
Moi aussi j’avais eu le même problème clapet d’admission (M55)sur ma e 350cdi c’est une des maladies desV6 j’avais payé 700euro il y’a 2ans
great person, great job thank you showing all important points. mercedes garage right robbers for 2 hours job , they make it 2 days job!
Glad to help
Mate. Well done!! Great job .. i realised how hard it is to do the swirl flap motor…i will attempt it soon!! Thanks for the great video.
Excellent job
How's she goin'? It interesting how many electronic devices are needed to trouble car systems now eh!!! You had a meter, a diagnostic computer, a laptop and a resistance box and that's just what I saw!!! That was a lot of digging to get to the part and make the change. But I guess that's getting to be a normal thing to. Nice fix Igor!!! Way to go!!! Take care!!
Grampie's Workshop thanks Mike totally agree absolutely crazy and it wasn’t enough, I really needed a battery support unit but it has to wait 👍👍👍 thanks pal
Nice work Igor...Mechanic Matt style...power, ground, control good? if yes...component change! Well done . Cheers Pal
Thanks mate ... Mechanic Matt is definitely one of the best testing channels out there I’m watching and learning 😉🤗👍👍👍 cheers
Thanx for you video on swirl motor diagnoses & replacement !!
Cheers pal 👍👍👍
Well done...
👍👍👍
Thanks Luis 👍👍👍 I’m not sure about my hat what did you think of it 😜😊😋👍
Great video Igor. Yes battery support is a must. I'm using the Telwin unit. It's a bit cheaper than the Gys but has been good so far. It's Italian made I think. 👍
Thanks mate I’ll look for the Telwin unit 👍👍👍🙌
@@CarsExposed got it from.. www.dealerleveldiagnostictools.com/telwin-doctor-charge-130.html
Automotive Solutions thanks mate which one did you get the doctor 50 or 130?
130 mate.
Automotive Solutions thanks for the recommendation mate 👍
Excellent job.
You are the best, Bravo.
Many thanks 👍👍👍
Wonderful video, thank you. From my experience, what drive that motor to go bad is oil and resistance of the moving flaps caused by the carbon buildup in the ports. Also it wears out the links ((made of plastic)). If i was to go that far, i would have taken the intakes off and replace the links. Also clean up the carbon build up yo save my new motor.
Thank you. 😁
Well long job and extra costs for seals. It took me 2 days to clean both manifolds, now I use liqui moly manifold cleaner and is doing his job without taking anything off
That looked like a bear of job mate....great work and dedication for your video.... 😀😀
Johnny's Speed Shop 🤣🤣🤣😋 thanks mate 👍👍👍👍
To check the Signal wire, would it be OK to probe with a ground signal (ground to signal)?
Nice job mate. Its always very satisfying getting the oscilloscope out and it gives you the data you're expecting 😅
Couldn’t agree more very nice feeling indeed 😋🤗👍👍👍
Another great video can i ask what programs are you using to get the wiring diagrams and torque specs thanks
Thanks mate I use various companies but this one was HGS HELLA 👍👍👍
Hello , 1 question do I need to turn on open postion flaps with hand ,or no need just to put resistor , plug and play ?
What is the diagnostic program that you are using?
I've been through This, problem can also be caused by blocked up inlet ports (blocked up with EGR, PCV gunk), motor cant open or close swirl flaps and burns out.
Upstream cause is the orange camshaft (cant think of name) at rear that runs to pcv
Autel MaxiCOM 908P in this case some electronic components in the swirl flap motor was burned internally 👍
Hello Cars Exposed
good afternoon
Help me in this situation please.
I have a jeep grandCherokee 2009 crd 3.0 limited after driving 30km shows failure in the fuel sensor past failure P2264 Fuel/water separator sensor circuit.
I have already changed the sensor and filters and the obd always shows the same fault as before.
could you give me some guidance?
it makes me crazy
The swirl flap motor looks buried down there, nice fix.
A battery support unit would be useful, I don't have one either.
Thanks mate Yeap that thing was hidden well 😊😋... I so need a battery support unit I had a couple issues recently mainly Mercedes and BMW’s l, saving the nuggets at the minute we will get one at some point soon 🤞👍👍👍
Hi from South Africa great video what diagnostic machine are you using
merci pour la video ,ce swirl je l ai u deux fois la troisieme j ai installe la 4,7 k avec 250000 km .
Nice video, what was the total parts cost?
Hi mate I believe I have the same issue on my 2005 Mercedes CLS
Hi Man. You should replays red gasket each time you remove intake. I dont have any drom of oil there.
If it’s not leaking it’s all good to resize it 👍
What program was that for getting the wiring diagram?
Hi my friend i have a question. My car has the same problem but i don't have the time to repair it now. Can i drive 2000 km like this?
How was your car behaving? Mine is skipping boost, boost on and something interrupts, then boost down, then it boosts up again, and down again. I think i have the same problem
Job well done 👍🏻
Thanks Gary I see her quite often still going strong 💪👍👍👍
@@CarsExposed excellent 👌
Good job, good video👍!
Thanks mate 👍
Please specify cost for the parts also
Hi. Sorry.
What programming do you use for wire diagram
👏 bravo
Cheers mate 👍
What was the problem in the end got a little lost lol got a bit technical
Mark Smith no worries mate 😊... the vehicle was in limp mode generally to prevent engine damage, the symptoms were lack of power, the owner was really struggling to pull away on junctions and roundabouts...
The actuator had a blown transistor which probably commanded one direction of the motor so when the ECU commanded the actuator and the position didn’t change it put the vehicle in limp mode 👍👍👍
@@CarsExposed got it now my son was in my ear lol and I wasnt relaxed
Mark Smith 😂😂😂🍻👍
Do you have the list of the all the parts you bought and the part numbers 🤔?
I don’t have bud I think I show it on the video
@@CarsExposed yes u did. Thanks
I'm getting Code P2010 Intake Manifold Runner Control Circuit High Bank 1 & Code P2010 Intake Manifold Runner Control (IMRC) Solenoid Control Circuit High Voltage! Car goes into limp mode but I am able to reset it after restating the car. What's all that about ? Can anybody help me ?
How much the parts costed
Could u also list down the part nos
The parts came to about £225 , I think I've showed the parts in the video .
There is a leak from oil cooler underneeth. Better was to replace gaskets for oil cooler too.
Oil cooler seals were replaced about a year ago , the oil that you see is from the intake pipe possible pcv membrane rupture 👍👍👍
@@CarsExposed how much of a job was it mate, for say... a diy job?
Cheers
i put a resistor 2nd and 3 points on the connector, car now good acceleration but engine ight did not go. what to do?
you probably need to clear the codes
@@CarsExposed
i cleared with diagnosed tool and engine light come back after 10 miles , error message was''intake manifold runner control circuit/open bank 1a'
but car runs perfect, i thought.
@@mehmetdogu384 Do you still have this code or did it clear itself after some time?
Afinal o que é o código 2513
What is the name of this parts?
Good video but a very pain on the ass job...but someone as to do it! What is the program that you use on the video that have that Wire diagrams! Cheers from Portugal
Fala pá tudo bem ?😊... A bit of a pain but not too bad 👍 Me manda um email carsexposed@yahoo.com ou mensagem no Instagram instagram.com/p/CB3ArYIJ05W/ que eu te falo 👍👍👍
@@CarsExposed já te estou a seguir...sempre pensei que você tinha género de pessoa latina... afinal você deve ser português? Por isso você também se dá bem com o Luís do lm auto repair
Belezinha sim sou latino brasileiro 😋😜... O Luís é realmente um gajo 5 estrelas que considero um brother mesmo , já aprendi muito com ele em todos os aspectos mecânicos ou pessoal 👍👍👍
Oil leak from oil cooler. Waist of your time and money. I believe it is back on limp mode already.
I had the same problem, and I mounted it without removing the turbo, it was relatively easy, with a piece of shrink tubing and a wire hanger, I didn't make any video but if there is someone who needs to mount it I will take the old engine and make an explanatory video， my car is mercedes Benz s class w 221
You done wrong way red big gasket on turbo...
Use Star diagnostic better...
John 3:16
John 14:6
John 5:24
For God so loved his chrysler 300, that he gave his only begotten Throttle body, that whoever shall belifeth in it working again, shall it not perish, but have every lasting life, miles rpms
Do yourself a favor scrap the mercedes junk box and buy a Toyota it will be the best thing you ever do. These cars are like kids toys.
cheers
Hi from South Africa great video what diagnostics machine are you using