This works 100%. I had this same issue where in the winters where it would get stuck when cold and was quoted £180 to fix by a merc specialist. In the UK you can undo the panel under the steering wheel its 3 T20 screws, no need to remove the side panel like in this video. The panel has 3 wires 2 for knee airbags and 1 for footwell light. With a little squeezing through you can work without having to disconnect the wires. I could see the spring and the ratchet mechanism through the gap under the steering wheel its almost as high up as the steering wheel. Aim and blast away at the spring, ratchet and cable with wd40 then some spray grease. Engage and disengage a few times almost immediately it will release with a firm thud. Keep a cloth under the pedal to catch drips else wd40 seeps into the carpet and it will smell for days. Does the trick works 100% and money saved!
that hidden spring l couldnt find on mine , uk model c class 2013 looked everywere noo its not even under steering wheel .some help please and a photo will be very helpful.
Thank you so much! I had this issue. At first, Brake would not release when it was only cold. The dealership said they new of brake issue and brake mechanism had to be replaced at $500. It finally wouldn’t release all the time. Found this video and gave it a try. Now it works like a charm. Just pull handle and it releases. No more pulling up with my foot or hand. Saved me $500. Only had to buy some WD40 and grease.
Just wanted to thank you so much for this. Worked on my e550 coupe. I was ready to take it into the dealership then saw this. It wasn't working at first, but kept trying and putting WD40 on it. After about 50 times of engaging and releasing it finally got better. Now it releases instantly like it should. Huge thank you!
Thank you. Although my RHD car is the opposite way around, the coil/spring bit you lubed up with WD40 is in a different location but because of your video it showed me what to look for! For anyone else on my Mercedes C204 its located above the park pedal mechanism on a Right Hand Drive. Soaked it in WD40 and now its much quicker to release.
Thanks man also just found this out on my S204. Just got up inside and behind the mechanism and soaked it. Could see the hand moon shaped back plate had a little surface rust on but once soaked in WD40 it soon freed up. Also I found WD40 silicone tends to last a bit longer than the original version and it also won’t eat through any electrical cabling in the future.
@@andrewlambert7530 no didn’t have to remove any panels. Just got to get ur head right up there with a torch to see this mechanism that needs a soaking with lubricant above your pedals.
Worked a treat! UK cars (right hand drive) can’t access the second spring through the plastic side panel but you can kind of get it from underneath once you know where you are aiming. Thanks so much. Respect 👊
Thank you. I 've been too afraid to use this brake on my beautiful E550 just in case I couldn't release it ! 😆 I'm a Boomer handbrake guy. I have RHD. I just shoved the straw into the mechanism and went CRAZY with it. No screws needed to be undone. Now I'm a fricking expert, thanks to WD40 and YOU !
The most valuable video on TH-cam, I had this exact issue and the garage wanted to change the whole parking brake unit. Followed these tips apart from mine is RHD but I knew what to look for from the video. Within 5 mins it was working perfectly. Thank you
Thanks for this it was a great help. On the RHD cars remove 3 torx self tappers and loosen the under tray. Slide the clip which retains the OBD port upwards and detach the OBD connector. Remove the singe Philips self tapper from the bonnet (hood) release assembly - twist this 90 degrees and "post" it through the slot in the tray. Then you can remove the tray completely and let the dog see the rabbit🐰. The OP is quite correct in that many garages don't even see the torque spring and just lubricate everything else - but binding between the coils (caused by hardened grease) is what really causes a slow or stuck release especially in cold conditions. "Lifting" the brake lever with your toe actually unwinds the torque spring beyond it's limits and the right-angled tang can pop the wrong side of the ratchet assembly. This happened on mine and caused the ratchet function to fail (NO hold on the parking brake!) until I'd relocated the tang back into it's correct position.
Just fixed mine yesterday, many thanks to OP. My car is UK so obviously RHD. Instead of touching the OBD I pulled off the brake microswitch as the cable from this was tight and holding up the tray on the left hand side where the access is needed. I actually tried to pull the spade connectors off, but the microawitch they connect to came off instead. It was easy to relocate when I had finished.
Another grateful person here to say Thank You! My car just failed it's mandatory annual inspection on this issue alone, and I was gutted when I saw what it would cost to get it "fixed" at a dealership. Awesome how-to video, really well filmed and brilliant running commentary. Cheers!
Thanx, just bought a 2008, CLK, and going over everything. Today removed the rear handbrake drum and cleaned/ check all parts. So will now clean up/ check the pedal etc.
Thank you very much. My 2015 glk350 had same problem as you say. I followed your protocols and fixed it. I saved hundred dollars. Thank you very very much.
Guoliang Li hi, i have the same car. I have access with the cable but not with the spring. It doesnt have that small panel at the side. Did you manage to lubricate the spring?
Awesome, good to hear that it's working for people out there who are willing to give it a try. thanks for giving it a shot, im glad it helped save you a big chunk of money.
Es hat tatsächlich geholfen. Super Tipp! Hatte das Problem, dass ich mehrmals den hebel ziehen musste bis die bremse sich löste. Nun geht es mit einem Mal ziehen. Danke.
@jimrrussell8250 awesome, please include it in your yearly maintenance to help that baby run trouble free for years to come. Consider liking and suscribing, we'll have some more videos coming up.
Thanks for this video - I'm on my 3rd E- coup and experienced this problem on my 2013 and 2016 models - This is an example of over engineering. You can probably go to junk yard and get in a 20+ year old car and the parking break works just fine. There was no need to re-invent it. Mercedes Benz stop complicating the simple.
THANKS! I just replaced a rear wheel bearing and was having issues getting the disc to fit back on. The parking brake was adjusted all the way in, but still...Will try this today. WD40 is not to lubricate, but rather to free up the mechanism. The grease will lube the moving parts. Good show!
I def need to try this. My E63S parking brake gets stuck as soon as it’s somewhat chilly out, and I have to pull with my hand really hard. To the point of it’s painful lol. Even in warm weather when it releases it’s like it’s on a strong damper. Super annoying since my driveway is sloped
My e-brake emergency warning light & alarm stays on even with the e-brake released. Is this video a potential fix for this problem? Well done! Really appreciated your video. Any recommendations would be a great help! Thank You, Jim Dasher Seattle metro
I would look at the ebrake switch, its located at the front of the ebrake pedal assembly. I've seen those switches faulty causing the ebrake light to come on. I'm doing a video on the ebrake switches soon. Look for that next week. Consider suscribing to allow the channel to grow. Thanks
To get it disengaged you can pull on the foot pedal at the same time you pull the release lever, just so it can be drivable if needed until you can oil the springs and cable.
BENZ WORKS, great DIY save! Having the EXACT same symptoms on my 2013 E220 CDI…will do the same application. HOWEVER, anything further I need to be concerned about as the symptoms were caused do to my mother-in-law driving (short distance, low speed) the car while the emergency brake was applied🤬? Thank you
Hey. Well depends how long the car was driven with ebrake on you might have premature wear on the parking brake shoes. I can tell you I've only done a handful of parking brake shoes and those were for campaigns (recalls) for noises and not for wear. Hope that helps, consider subscribing as It helps to put out more content more often.
Is this an MOT fail out of curiosity? Mine does the same (springs out but have to use hand or foot for that last little bit). But works perfectly other than that..
Its probably just a starting to bind up. A quick lube would probably let it release all the way plus prevents it from getting really bad in the future and keeping that parking brake light on..
@@ryan4372 hope it works for you also. If it does consider suscribing to help this channel grow. I'll be doing a series on A/C smells and cleaning so lookout for that.
Thanks 4 such useful videos. I have a problem with the handbrake Mercedes 220 CDI 2001. the handbrake dose not work at all when i press the handle and it function ok but it seems it dose not have contact on wheels to hold them. could you please give me some advise about it , Thanks
Thanks for the great video 👍👍 My foot was getting tired of lifting up the pedal. Doing it over the weekend. 🙂 There is a clunky noise when I release the parking brake. It's loud and annoying. What could that be and how can that be sorted? Thanks.
Not sure man, hard to diagnose with out seeing the vichicle and locating noise source. Try this to see if it frees up the mechanism. Thus should work if the Parking Brake pedal mechanism doesnt have other issues. And yes sometimes they do need to be replaced when diagnosed for other issues.
Thanks for sharing this video. Are u able to show the tool you used to open the side panel. The camera did not capture the full view of the tool you used and what you did to pry it open without damaging it.
SF FU. Definatly want to stick with plastic panel removers on interior repairs to ensure panels aren't scratched or damaged with metal tools. Amazon has tons. Even better try Harbor Freight, they have a nice set of panel removers.
OR... make your own tool out of a flat plastic coat hanger. I did. Worked great on my GLK 350. Also if you had a small plastic bondo tool or drywall spatula that would work too. You just need a thin strong piece of plastic to initiate the panel removal without damaging it. After that, you carefully pull off the panel with your hands. Props to Benz Works for showing the delinquent spring location!
Now it's broken altogether 😬 just looking at your video - I'm thinking it might be the spring where it attaches 🤔 the release handle is totally loose now & the pedal won't lock, any thoughts would be very welcome 😪
These parking brake assemblies do fail occasionally where the spring inside comes apart and it wont engage. That would be a case for replacement of the parking brake assembly. If I see that the cable is streatched i would also replace the parking brake assembly. Also, the handle breaks where the ball end of the cable meets the plastic hold/pull mechanism. Taking the side panel off the dash will show you if the handle I'd broken. Handles are available separately if it's the handle. Hard to tell with out seeing it.
Maybe.. the only ones I haven't seen come back to working order are the ones that are springy, they loose the ratcheting mechanism and wont stay down, so you would push it down and it would spring right back to the top. Those will need to be replaced.. On the other hand for this type of repair sometimes they wont click but still come back. The ebrake light being on could be an ebrake switch located right behind the pedal. If the ebrake doesnt return all the way up it will also keep that light on. But I have also replaced dead ebrake switches that stayed on the on position. Hope that helps. Consider subscribing to help this channel grow. Thanks
Sorry never worked on right hand drive. There was another person in the comments who was talking about that not to long ago. Check the comments and reach out to them
Gio Bustamante Saved me $210 + Tax CAD + Labour. Honestly did not think it would work. But it did. It hasn’t worked properly since I bought the car a few months ago. It was super stuck. THANK YOU
Mine is still stuck. It moves like an old person. The springs been greased and well as the cable that you indicated. The pedal doesn’t go down very far ever, only 1.5-2 clicks. Any idea what this could be?
Might be a case where the pedal cable is stretched in which case ebrake pedal assembly would need to be changed. The ones that I see beyond this repair are the ones that you push down about halfway and they never click just spring back right away.
Not really. Use what you got on hand. We just use that on different applications for interior use. It almost has the consistency of vaseline. Some people have commented that they use other types of spray lubes and it works also. Good luck hope it works for you also.
Can this problem cause the rear brakes to bind ? And is there any other points along the length of the cable you can get to lube up ... or is the cable fully sealed from parking brake to pads ?
@@SoCalBenzWerks thx for the reply, got a feeling im gonna have to strip the rear brakes (park) and check everything is free inside , the pedal is fine ... snaps back no problem, ive definitely got a lip that's making it hard to remove the disc, ( had half hour free to have a quick look) , had a quick poke at the cable and got a feeling that's where my problem lies..... cos even after backing the shoe adjuster all the way from drum ( disc didn't want to come off in the time i had ) as soon as park brake is used it's binding ( and running alot hotter, which is my main worry). Ill get it done. 👍
@@rossiwilton hey i hope you see this.... I have same problem-e brake light flashing and it's engaged and running hotter..... Did you find the problem and get it fixed? Could you share what you did... If you fixed it? Thank you in advance. 2012c300
I thought something was wrong with my cable, ima try this on my cls550 in the morning when it's cold it takes about 5-8 hard pulls almost tugs to get the BRAKE light off
I would check that cable that comes from the parking brake assembly to the handle. Either the handle is broken or the cable has been stretched,, seen both of those scenarios before also.
If the handle does not return, you will have to check the handle by removing the T20 screw holding the handle frame to the Dashboard Most likely it is broken, and you can replace the handle assembly. Sometimes the cable from the parking brake mechanism is stretched and will not return, causing the handle not to work. In this case, you will need a new parking break assembly.
Yup. I didnt have any on hand the first time. Just used some DW and bam free pedal. You know I would see these ebrake pedals sold all the time and they always came back..kind of pissed me off because I told techs they didnt need to be sold. Just a clean and lube and done but greed is hard to resist. People would charge up to 2.5 hours for replacement at $190 an hour. Plus the part..wow. I just couldn't do that to someone.
This works 100%. I had this same issue where in the winters where it would get stuck when cold and was quoted £180 to fix by a merc specialist. In the UK you can undo the panel under the steering wheel its 3 T20 screws, no need to remove the side panel like in this video. The panel has 3 wires 2 for knee airbags and 1 for footwell light. With a little squeezing through you can work without having to disconnect the wires. I could see the spring and the ratchet mechanism through the gap under the steering wheel its almost as high up as the steering wheel. Aim and blast away at the spring, ratchet and cable with wd40 then some spray grease. Engage and disengage a few times almost immediately it will release with a firm thud. Keep a cloth under the pedal to catch drips else wd40 seeps into the carpet and it will smell for days. Does the trick works 100% and money saved!
Good to hear. Glad it helped save you some money during these hard times around the world. Consider subscribing to help the channel grow. Thanks
Could you make a video on how you did that. I live on a really busy street and cannot keep my door open for more than a minute lol
that hidden spring l couldnt find on mine , uk model c class 2013 looked everywere noo its not even under steering wheel .some help please and a photo will be very helpful.
Thank you so much! I had this issue. At first, Brake would not release when it was only cold. The dealership said they new of brake issue and brake mechanism had to be replaced at $500. It finally wouldn’t release all the time. Found this video and gave it a try. Now it works like a charm. Just pull handle and it releases. No more pulling up with my foot or hand. Saved me $500. Only had to buy some WD40 and grease.
Great to hear!
Just wanted to thank you so much for this. Worked on my e550 coupe. I was ready to take it into the dealership then saw this. It wasn't working at first, but kept trying and putting WD40 on it. After about 50 times of engaging and releasing it finally got better. Now it releases instantly like it should. Huge thank you!
That's awesome man. Glad it helped.
Thanks for making this video. It fixed my problem. I was quoted $950 to replace the parking brake paddle Assembly.
Thank you. Although my RHD car is the opposite way around, the coil/spring bit you lubed up with WD40 is in a different location but because of your video it showed me what to look for! For anyone else on my Mercedes C204 its located above the park pedal mechanism on a Right Hand Drive. Soaked it in WD40 and now its much quicker to release.
Cool man. I've gotten a few questions about RHD but I've never worked on those. I'll refer them to your comment.
Thanks man also just found this out on my S204. Just got up inside and behind the mechanism and soaked it. Could see the hand moon shaped back plate had a little surface rust on but once soaked in WD40 it soon freed up. Also I found WD40 silicone tends to last a bit longer than the original version and it also won’t eat through any electrical cabling in the future.
Hi mate, did you have to remove any trim panels or is there good access. Need to have a look at mine hopefully later today
@@andrewlambert7530 no didn’t have to remove any panels. Just got to get ur head right up there with a torch to see this mechanism that needs a soaking with lubricant above your pedals.
@@adamnewlove563 Worked a treat mate, all working again now. Seems its easier on the RHD thankfully Thanks for your help!
You're a GENIUS!!! I cancelled my Monday appt with Mercedes. You saved me $1000! I'm sure of it! Works perfectly!
That's awesome. Good to hear
Worked a treat! UK cars (right hand drive) can’t access the second spring through the plastic side panel but you can kind of get it from underneath once you know where you are aiming. Thanks so much. Respect 👊
Thank you very much this just saved me £200 took less then 20 minutes to fix big respect the person who uploaded this video 👍
Awesome. Glad it helped. Consider subscribing to help this Benz
Channel grow.
You just saved me the $700 my dealership wanted to charge to replace the whole assembly. Thank you!!
Awesome Tim. Good to hear that. Hate to see people waste money especially right now.
Thank you.
I 've been too afraid to use this brake on my beautiful E550 just in case I couldn't release it ! 😆
I'm a Boomer handbrake guy.
I have RHD. I just shoved the straw into the mechanism and went CRAZY with it. No screws needed to be undone.
Now I'm a fricking expert, thanks to WD40 and YOU !
The most valuable video on TH-cam, I had this exact issue and the garage wanted to change the whole parking brake unit. Followed these tips apart from mine is RHD but I knew what to look for from the video. Within 5 mins it was working perfectly. Thank you
Thanks for this it was a great help. On the RHD cars remove 3 torx self tappers and loosen the under tray. Slide the clip which retains the OBD port upwards and detach the OBD connector. Remove the singe Philips self tapper from the bonnet (hood) release assembly - twist this 90 degrees and "post" it through the slot in the tray. Then you can remove the tray completely and let the dog see the rabbit🐰. The OP is quite correct in that many garages don't even see the torque spring and just lubricate everything else - but binding between the coils (caused by hardened grease) is what really causes a slow or stuck release especially in cold conditions.
"Lifting" the brake lever with your toe actually unwinds the torque spring beyond it's limits and the right-angled tang can pop the wrong side of the ratchet assembly. This happened on mine and caused the ratchet function to fail (NO hold on the parking brake!) until I'd relocated the tang back into it's correct position.
Just fixed mine yesterday, many thanks to OP. My car is UK so obviously RHD. Instead of touching the OBD I pulled off the brake microswitch as the cable from this was tight and holding up the tray on the left hand side where the access is needed. I actually tried to pull the spade connectors off, but the microawitch they connect to came off instead. It was easy to relocate when I had finished.
Another grateful person here to say Thank You! My car just failed it's mandatory annual inspection on this issue alone, and I was gutted when I saw what it would cost to get it "fixed" at a dealership. Awesome how-to video, really well filmed and brilliant running commentary. Cheers!
Thanx, just bought a 2008, CLK, and going over everything. Today removed the rear handbrake drum and cleaned/ check all parts. So will now clean up/ check the pedal etc.
Thank you very much. My 2015 glk350 had same problem as you say. I followed your protocols and fixed it. I saved hundred dollars. Thank you very very much.
Good to hear that.
Guoliang Li hi, i have the same car. I have access with the cable but not with the spring. It doesnt have that small panel at the side. Did you manage to lubricate the spring?
Thank you!! I was on my way to the dealership and decided to give it a try .I worked great .Thanks again
You saved at least $500 bucks. Thank you so much. It worked like a charm.
Awesome, good to hear that it's working for people out there who are willing to give it a try. thanks for giving it a shot, im glad it helped save you a big chunk of money.
My pedal got stuck for the first time on my 2014 c250 coupe so will definitely give this a try, thanks for posting.
Thanks for sharing. The dealer didn't even suggest this fix and quoted us over $500+ for the "repair.!"
You're welcome!
Es hat tatsächlich geholfen. Super Tipp! Hatte das Problem, dass ich mehrmals den hebel ziehen musste bis die bremse sich löste. Nun geht es mit einem Mal ziehen. Danke.
Thank you so much. You saved me a bag of money, it worked on my c220 cdi. Thank again and keep up the good work. God Bless You.
Glad to hear that.
Thanks mate. If I wouldn't watch your video, I would pay 50-100 euros. I appreciate. 🙏
Thx had the same issue on my s204 helped me to fix it and saved my money greetings from Germany
Thank you. This was great help. I almost called a technician. You are a Genius!
Glad it helped save some money for what you were able to DIY. Consider subscribing will be posting more videos in the future
Just did this on my US-spec 2016 E350 wagon. Thanks so much for the video!
Cool. Consider subscribing to help the channel grow. Looking forward to more in depth repairs.
Yes man, this worked so nice for my stuck break when it gets colder
@jimrrussell8250 awesome, please include it in your yearly maintenance to help that baby run trouble free for years to come. Consider liking and suscribing, we'll have some more videos coming up.
I followed your instructions on my 2014 E350. It worked. Thank you so much.
Awesome. Good to hear that it saved you some money.
The best instruction ever for this issue. Thank you!
THANK YOU MY FRIEND!!!
WORKS 100% W204 C200 2013
HALLO FROM ATHENS -GREECE !!
Awesome. Greetings from California
Another thanks. Used Syl-glyde lubricant after Tri-Flow double shots. Great help and appreciate your taking the time to share.
i followed your instructions and WOW,like new,its been perfect for 2 weeks now,tnx again...
still working great..
Thanks for this video - I'm on my 3rd E- coup and experienced this problem on my 2013 and 2016 models - This is an example of over engineering. You can probably go to junk yard and get in a 20+ year old car and the parking break works just fine. There was no need to re-invent it. Mercedes Benz stop complicating the simple.
I like those E coupes also. Hope this helps. Consider subscribing for future content and for growing this Benz channel.
Thanks man. How to remove the cover at the lower position in this video?
Wow! Thank you so much! You are a genius! It worked perfectly for my 2014 E350!😀
Ditto on 2004 e320, same problem, same fix. Parking brake release clicking sound much more clear in back wheels after the fix as expected.
Thank you. Slightly different mechanism on U.K. W204 but still worked for me. That bad boy is snapping up now.
Thank you. This worked perfectly on a 2014 E Class.
Nice. Good to hear that. When I get some time I'll post more DIY Benz tech repairs
Thank you!! All I had to do was pull the underside panel off on my glk 350... A few squirts of WD40 and it's fixed.
Awesome. The DW-40 is to loosen it the grease is to maintain it free. Penetrating lube spray also works great at both.
Thank you very very very much sir! It took me 8 minutes to watch your video and 5 minutes to fix the issue. Thanks for sharing the knowledge!
THANKS! I just replaced a rear wheel bearing and was having issues getting the disc to fit back on. The parking brake was adjusted all the way in, but still...Will try this today. WD40 is not to lubricate, but rather to free up the mechanism. The grease will lube the moving parts. Good show!
I def need to try this. My E63S parking brake gets stuck as soon as it’s somewhat chilly out, and I have to pull with my hand really hard. To the point of it’s painful lol. Even in warm weather when it releases it’s like it’s on a strong damper. Super annoying since my driveway is sloped
Yeah definitely try this first. Should help. If it does consider suscribing to help this channel grow.
My e-brake emergency warning light & alarm stays on even with the e-brake released. Is this video a potential fix for this problem?
Well done! Really appreciated your video.
Any recommendations would be a great help!
Thank You,
Jim Dasher
Seattle metro
I would look at the ebrake switch, its located at the front of the ebrake pedal assembly. I've seen those switches faulty causing the ebrake light to come on. I'm doing a video on the ebrake switches soon. Look for that next week. Consider suscribing to allow the channel to grow. Thanks
Thanks buddy ❤ , its really helpful .
I am suffering from same problem , got the exact solution here .
To get it disengaged you can pull on the foot pedal at the same time you pull the release lever, just so it can be drivable if needed until you can oil the springs and cable.
If you hold the release lever out then work the pedal up and down, much easier and quicker than keep wearing the ratchet and frees of quickly.
Thanks you so much for this. Only way to get mine to come up is by using foot behind the pedal.
Legend has it...he is still pumping the handbreak😎
it's a parking brake, when he's finished he'll deserve a tea break
BENZ WORKS, great DIY save! Having the EXACT same symptoms on my 2013 E220 CDI…will do the same application.
HOWEVER, anything further I need to be concerned about as the symptoms were caused do to my mother-in-law driving (short distance, low speed) the car while the emergency brake was applied🤬?
Thank you
Hey. Well depends how long the car was driven with ebrake on you might have premature wear on the parking brake shoes. I can tell you I've only done a handful of parking brake shoes and those were for campaigns (recalls) for noises and not for wear. Hope that helps, consider subscribing as It helps to put out more content more often.
Thank you soo much for this insight , Very helpful and cost saving . Wish you all the best 🙌🏼
Thanks Man. Glad it helped.
tnx for the info,i am currently having that exact issur,i will follow your steps,tnx again...
Good luck man.
Is this an MOT fail out of curiosity?
Mine does the same (springs out but have to use hand or foot for that last little bit). But works perfectly other than that..
Its probably just a starting to bind up. A quick lube would probably let it release all the way plus prevents it from getting really bad in the future and keeping that parking brake light on..
@@SoCalBenzWerks yeah gonna give this a go tomorrow! Thanks!
@@ryan4372 hope it works for you also. If it does consider suscribing to help this channel grow. I'll be doing a series on A/C smells and cleaning so lookout for that.
@@SoCalBenzWerks yeah it’s made it much better. Flings right to the top now. Left it to set in. But great improvement! Thanks!
благодарю тебе, мужик!
100% работает glk350. 👍
Wow fully translated my issue mate thank you 🎉❤
Nice I got the same problem that was a good tip now I think I can fix my problem thanks a lot buddy 👍 👌
Thanks 4 such useful videos. I have a problem with the handbrake Mercedes 220 CDI 2001. the handbrake dose not work at all when i press the handle and it function ok but it seems it dose not have contact on wheels to hold them. could you please give me some advise about it , Thanks
Sorry. No idea, would have to see what vehicle and brake system that was to begin to contemplate a fix.
@@SoCalBenzWerks Thanks for replying
Thank you-- this worked like a champ on my 2012 E350!
Adding my thanks. Worked great to fix a lazy pedal.
Thanks for the great video 👍👍 My foot was getting tired of lifting up the pedal. Doing it over the weekend. 🙂 There is a clunky noise when I release the parking brake. It's loud and annoying. What could that be and how can that be sorted? Thanks.
Not sure man, hard to diagnose with out seeing the vichicle and locating noise source. Try this to see
if it frees up the mechanism. Thus should work if the Parking Brake pedal mechanism doesnt have other issues. And yes sometimes they do need to be replaced when diagnosed for other issues.
@@SoCalBenzWerks Thanks man, will check it out and fix the mechanism and check if there's anything else. 👍👍
Thanks for sharing this video. Are u able to show the tool you used to open the side panel. The camera did not capture the full view of the tool you used and what you did to pry it open without damaging it.
I used a wedge from Amazon. Steck 21730 Automotive Accessories www.amazon.com/dp/B000L7JQMU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AuE1DbKQGASJM
SF FU. Definatly want to stick with plastic panel removers on interior repairs to ensure panels aren't scratched or damaged with metal tools. Amazon has tons. Even better try Harbor Freight, they have a nice set of panel removers.
OR... make your own tool out of a flat plastic coat hanger. I did. Worked great on my GLK 350. Also if you had a small plastic bondo tool or drywall spatula that would work too. You just need a thin strong piece of plastic to initiate the panel removal without damaging it. After that, you carefully pull off the panel with your hands. Props to Benz Works for showing the delinquent spring location!
“Bless you...”
- for the guy sneezing @5:19
Thank you really well explained. Will try this now and subscribe 👍
Thank you for the sub. I hope it works for you also like the thousands of other people who have tried this and saved a ton of money.
Many thank for this very useful advice...
Now it's broken altogether 😬 just looking at your video - I'm thinking it might be the spring where it attaches 🤔 the release handle is totally loose now & the pedal won't lock, any thoughts would be very welcome 😪
These parking brake assemblies do fail occasionally where the spring inside comes apart and it wont engage. That would be a case for replacement of the parking brake assembly. If I see that the cable is streatched i would also replace the parking brake assembly. Also, the handle breaks where the ball end of the cable meets the plastic hold/pull mechanism. Taking the side panel off the dash will show you if the handle I'd broken. Handles are available separately if it's the handle. Hard to tell with out seeing it.
@@SoCalBenzWerks cheers, I'll go investigating this evening 👍🍻
Hey guys hope this has helped you save some cash in these hard times. Consider subscribing to help grow this channel. God be with us all.
Hi, mine too is sticking, but I have a right hand drive, where is the spring located?
@@XOX74 haven't seen a right hand drive Mercedes in the US. Let alone worked on one yet. I would say follow the ebrake pedal and you will find it.
@@SoCalBenzWerks Never found it, I did manage to adjust the cable...under the back seat...Thanks for responding! Best wishes from Scotland! :)
That fuse thing near the spring came out.. I am trying to put it back in place.. c300 2014
bless you! saved me a couple hundred bucks.
Hey man, where is your shop located?
AND WD40 also makes a great silicone lube that can be sprayed into the cable sleeve front and back.
thanks a lot , now its working perfect and I used only dw40
Yeah the dw40 loses it up. The grease helps it stay lubed over time. Thanks for trying it out. Did you ever get a quote to replace it.
Gio Benzo I honestly didn’t , but I’m sure not less than $200
My ebrake light won’t turn off.. the pedal also stopped clicking a while ago… limp mode too. think this solution will help? Thanks
Maybe.. the only ones I haven't seen come back to working order are the ones that are springy, they loose the ratcheting mechanism and wont stay down, so you would push it down and it would spring right back to the top. Those will need to be replaced..
On the other hand for this type of repair sometimes they wont click but still come back. The ebrake light being on could be an ebrake switch located right behind the pedal. If the ebrake doesnt return all the way up it will also keep that light on. But I have also replaced dead ebrake switches that stayed on the on position. Hope that helps. Consider subscribing to help this channel grow. Thanks
Thank you ,its realy worket on my mercedes w204 c180 2013. :)
Cool man. Glad I could help.
Is this video will take care when pull cable becomes longer length?
Unfortunately, no. By that point, you would need a new brake mechanism.
@@SoCalBenzWerks Thanks for the video ,it take care of the problem, all i need is new handle
That's great, any idea what it's like to access on a right hand drive? Please & thanks in advance..
Sorry never worked on right hand drive. There was another person in the comments who was talking about that not to long ago. Check the comments and reach out to them
Love you so much. Thanks it really fixed
Awesome. Glad it helped. Remember to do it as part of your yearly service maintenance.
Merci, Monsieur. Very good and worthwhile video.
Thanks so much....2012 glk-350----snap--have an extended warranty ...but saved the trip etc
Thank you so much! Fixed mine. But I used lithium grease instead
Nice. Saved you some good cash and back to normal right..
Gio Bustamante Saved me $210 + Tax CAD + Labour. Honestly did not think it would work. But it did. It hasn’t worked properly since I bought the car a few months ago. It was super stuck. THANK YOU
Mine is still stuck. It moves like an old person. The springs been greased and well as the cable that you indicated. The pedal doesn’t go down very far ever, only 1.5-2 clicks. Any idea what this could be?
Might be a case where the pedal cable is stretched in which case ebrake pedal assembly would need to be changed. The ones that I see beyond this repair are the ones that you push down about halfway and they never click just spring back right away.
@@SoCalBenzWerks Thanks for the heads up. I think you're right it's been stretched. (Y) thanks Benz Works
Better way whould be to use big surrenge and some silicon tubing to greese the spring with more precision and less mess
Awesome video Thank you !
Saved me time and money !
Thank you, you're a true gem
Different on a UK right-hand drive. How to access
Any reason not to use petroleum jelly or bike grease or bearing grease instead of sunroof grease on the spring?
Not really. Use what you got on hand. We just use that on different applications for interior use. It almost has the consistency of vaseline. Some people have commented that they use other types of spray lubes and it works also. Good luck hope it works for you also.
Very helpful fix. Thanks
Awesome glad it helped. Consider subscribing for future content.
Can this problem cause the rear brakes to bind ? And is there any other points along the length of the cable you can get to lube up ... or is the cable fully sealed from parking brake to pads ?
If it locked in the down position then Yeah I guess it could get bad enough but hard to tell.
@@SoCalBenzWerks thx for the reply, got a feeling im gonna have to strip the rear brakes (park) and check everything is free inside , the pedal is fine ... snaps back no problem, ive definitely got a lip that's making it hard to remove the disc, ( had half hour free to have a quick look) , had a quick poke at the cable and got a feeling that's where my problem lies..... cos even after backing the shoe adjuster all the way from drum ( disc didn't want to come off in the time i had ) as soon as park brake is used it's binding ( and running alot hotter, which is my main worry). Ill get it done. 👍
@@rossiwilton hey i hope you see this.... I have same problem-e brake light flashing and it's engaged and running hotter..... Did you find the problem and get it fixed? Could you share what you did... If you fixed it? Thank you in advance. 2012c300
Awesome video thank you 👍
Cool, Hope it helps. Consider suscribing to keep this channel growing.
Do you havebvideo with installing cable
Sorry, it's been a while since I actually had to replace one.
Can you please tell me how do i get into my uk e class im from uk right hand drive
Theres are a lot of people in the comments with RH drive cars who have made it work, Check those out, good luck
Top man, thank for taking the time
I thought something was wrong with my cable, ima try this on my cls550 in the morning when it's cold it takes about 5-8 hard pulls almost tugs to get the BRAKE light off
How do u remove parking brake shoes from the rotors? Mine is stuck onto to them. 2006 c280 4 matic
That is a more in depth issue. Not impossible for a DIY guy.. look on you tube for some videos
Thank you for the video. Much appreciated! God bless!
Thank you. saved me so much money !
So my issue is that I pulled the release handle to hard and now the emergency break won’t stay in park it just keep coming back up.
I would check that cable that comes from the parking brake assembly to the handle. Either the handle is broken or the cable has been stretched,, seen both of those scenarios before also.
worked like a charm!! Thank you..
Thank You so much luck easy , I will try
@josetineo9898 You can use other liquid sprays also. If you read the comments, people have used all kinds of stuff to fix their brake pedals
What does it mean if my e take itself works fine. But the car does not stop ? And how can I fix that ?
Might be the ebrake pads are worn. Or there is an issue with the cable.
I need help mine just aren't grabbing enough I tightened the drum brakes and put brand new drum on there but they still aren't grabbing enough
Sounds like possible you might need the parking assembly.
My Parking handle pulled right out and wi not return ?
Help
If the handle does not return, you will have to check the handle by removing the T20 screw holding the handle frame to the Dashboard Most likely it is broken, and you can replace the handle assembly. Sometimes the cable from the parking brake mechanism is stretched and will not return, causing the handle not to work. In this case, you will need a new parking break assembly.
pb blaster also works very well instead of wd40
Yup. I didnt have any on hand the first time. Just used some DW and bam free pedal. You know I would see these ebrake pedals sold all the time and they always came back..kind of pissed me off because I told techs they didnt need to be sold. Just a clean and lube and done but greed is hard to resist. People would charge up to 2.5 hours for replacement at $190 an hour. Plus the part..wow. I just couldn't do that to someone.