Yes we're expecting PMMA replacing glass (with holes drill in the non-visible sections in the doors a la MX-5) and a huge pile of removed interior and unnecessary internals with light weight seats. Also try a Li-ion battery, swapping the metal fuel tank for a ~20L polymer based bag and if you can DIY a fibreglass body (using chopped strand mat with an epoxy that curse at room temperature and using the existing body as a mould) that'd be amazing.
Maybe a control lap after they install the clutch but idk whether they’d want to do a bunch of upgrades at once if they’re taking out exhaust driveshafts and trans to do the clutch.
Since they're on a budget, no steering wheel, keep current wheels unless they severely limit width, clutch, brakes, lightening, suspension. *Then* start thinking about power.
@@rpgspyware9560 i dont think 170 pound wheels are gonna be lighter than the stock ones. Also since this is an estate it should already have 225 tires which will be plenty effective once they get rid of atleast150 kilograms of weight.
weight reduction should be a main focus. remove all the sound installation and rear seats. You might then be able to sell the rear seats and spend that money on more mods.
@@razghost2 a van is considered practical even if it doesn't have a back seat. This would still be a two-seater, it just would have an enclosed cargo area.
Because of the budget an goal, keep the stock wheels as long as they allow a wide enough tire, keep the steering wheel stock, don't mess with putting a wing or splitter, best budget track tires, brakes pads, suspension, and cut everything you can out of the interior to reduce weight, then a bit of power for the rest of the money, and obviously fix the clutch.
Swap out the downpipe, up-pipe, injectors, fuel pump, boost controller, turbo inlet (NOT the intake!). stock catback and intake will not be a restriction at 300hp. For turbo Get either a used VF48 or like an FP Blue and run a used STI intercooler off the newer STIs along with a used 04-05 STI hood scoop and ducting. Dont cheap out on the tune and get it tuned for e85. Leave the stock wheels and go for as wide of a tire as you can fit. If youre concerned about braking get some used Subaru 4pots for the front and run some DOT 5 with aggresive pads. Pull as much of the interior as is reasonable, remove all the AC for weight savings. you could relocate the battery to the rear so the car isn't so nose heavy. The trick here is going to be used parts, the subaru parts market is huge and Takeoff parts like Factory turbos and intercoolers are a lot cheaper than aftermarket.
To me, what is really going to make this challenge interesting is, Subaru wagons are prone to understeer. Handling will be your best friend to beating a supercar. Tires are the first most important factor. Get the best tires for track racing. Suspension is the second most important. Then weight and braking. You only need enough power to get up to 150mph in a decent time. Maintaining that speed is the most important.
What about the track? The would need to know how it is structured first, then it would be better to decide on what parts are the best. I agree that this would be the best allrounder. Maybe Something to increase Performance ?
C5 Corvette. It is more practical than a supercar but budget would be very tight for mods. The Scoob needs a lot of $$$ to go fast. Much more than 13k in mods. I know, I’m on my 3rd Subaru.
I was expecting a Subaru cos it comes with awd as standard. And since you mostly get them with a 2.0 it leaves you with plenty of options to play around with hp and torque
@@kurtlamprecht93 I find it a good basis for the challenge. I could go in to further details but it would be fairly lengthy more than I have time for now to explain sorry! But google around and you will references to the 2.0 V4 being referred to as the “perfect” engine
@@timverelst1471 @KurtLamprecht true. I’ve also seen 2.2 vtec from Honda. It is not that it MUST BE 2.0 or not. My pov is just that when you hear about flat 4 engines from street legal car that can compete with supercars it very often ends up with a 2.0. Why this is so are more or less explained in some of that videos you find here searching “the perfect car engine”. Should I be guessing myself I would say that has something to do with how much combustion pressure you get relatively to torque, weight and fuel consumption and in that perspective have the optimal conditions with a V4 2.0.. Further argumentation would for me require a mechanical engineer specialized in combustion engines
@@LumaControl They could argue that ripping everything out the back keeps it more practical due to having loooads of cargo space. Only needs to beat a lambo or whatever for practicality sake.
That AWD is going to be a disadvantage if you're only looking at pushing around 300bhp, with the extra drivetrain loss and weight. I'm assuming it'll be a dry lap though.
Mods that are super cost effective and give you lots of lap time: Antiroll bar Tires "weight reduction" Larger intercooler piping (Subaru's choke themselves a bit)
In order of importance - gut the interior, cup sport 2's for 1500, suspension 1000, brakes 700, race clutch & flywheel 1500, MD321V turbo 2000, injectors 500, front mount 1000, rods 1000, pistons 800, head bolts/gaskets 500, exhaust 500. Sell the gutted interior and buy an Ebay Nitrous system for 500.
A bit late for this, but don’t bother with nice looking wheels. You need light ones, not flashy ones. Also the stock steering wheel will do just fine for one lap. Get good tires and suspension first, before adding more power. Also you really don’t need all those seats, carpets, trim pieces, stereo system, etc. Lot of unneccessary weight. You can also save a few kilos on taking out the fog lights, a sunroof delete, and surprisingly, emptying your windshield washer reservoir(that in itself is 2-5 kilos, depends on the capacity!!). For brakes, I’d go for EBC pads, and maybe some vented Brembo discs.
the most important things you should splash the cash on; -wheels & tires -brake pads Depending on the condition on the current rotors, you might be able to get away with the stock ones since you're only doing 1 lap. Unless you could find used uprated brakes for cheap
as a subaru fan i love this series,more the fact that i also want a wagon like that only they're nearly unabtainable where i live,makes th is even more perfect,cant wait to see the series!
If it is an on track race suspension and tires are obvious but upgraded rear limited slip and replacing the front open diff with an LSD is a must. That will definitely improve handling and have ultimate grip and power delivery.
Tires are a must, go splashing on them. Then I'd suggest a power tuning with some massive turbo, maybe a twin-scroll setup would do the trick and give enough power through a bigger rev range. Also, Chassis rigidity is necessary, so add on some cowl braces, frame rails, and also some other braces. Lastly, to carry the speed through the corners, fit in some stiff coils. Swapping the steering wheel and other stuffs is not necessary, which won't give a lot of power. But to deal with the increased power, clutch and brake upgrades are.
Great idea for a series - subscribed. Don't waste your money on a steering wheel. Strip EVERYTHING out of it. Doesn't cost anything and you can sell the parts and spend more on mods.
1. Weight removal, it's FREE to do, Strip that sucker to nothing 2. Tyres, they have the biggest impact 3. Suspension 4. Power: Turbo & Map etc 5. Brakes 6. NOS? Cheap for instant gains, you're only doing one lap 7. Aero, splittler and wing Please don't waste money on aesthetic stuff like MOMO steering wheel and gear knob, or facny looking wheels, if the current wheels are ROUND then use them
Id buy in order of priority: 1. Tyres 2. Brakes 3.suspension 4.injectors 5.(optional) turbo 6. Map 7. Chassis stiffness ( some of which can be done for cheap like welding a brace accross the rear suspension mounting points 8.exhaust 9.(Optional if there is remaining budget) bucket seat 10. Digital standalone dash. To replace the gage cluster. 11. Every other penny goes on race fuel 12. Take a big dump before racing! Then standard items like weight reduction and full service are a given. Same with a new clutch. Dont faff about list: 1.spending money on new wheels if the current ones will fit the new brakes 2.Steering wheel - just take the airbag out of the current one 3. Aero - you wont be going fast enough for most aero to work, and unless your going to spend a lot of money on getting low speed downforce it wont be worth it and will just increase drag. However, a very simple flat undertray with a slight rake and some plastic side skirts could make a small amount of ground effect for pretty cheap. 4.anything cosmetic in any way. Do the wheels come painted for 10 bucks more, nope that can go on fuel. Remember road legal is pretty widely defined and if you really wanted to go crazy you could sand off the paint or even remove the headlights (day running only) that sort of thing.
Pretty brave of you to spend that much money on a video series that may or may not pay off in the end. But 5 minutes in and I'm loving the janky goodness already
Big money tyres, cheapish coils,uprated ARB, poly bushes, strip interior, cheap buckets, cheap exhaust/decat, decent remap, I'd try and grab some recon brakes from an STI Etc and your away
This is the best car content on TH-cam at the moment Definitely get the remap and turbo And those better tyres. Rather than a huge wing a flat underfloor pan helps airflow where a wing slows you down at the top end PS agreed on the idea of weight reduction
*THIS IS TURNING INTO A TOP NOTCH CHANNEL* not channels run OUT of ideas - these guys seem like they are just getting started. An NO clickbait titles like "no one in the car industry wants you to know this one secret" - f-king hate that.
As Colin Chapman said " for more speed, add lightness" . You need steel wheels, much lighter than alloys (although originally it was meant to be the exact opposite) which is unsprung. A big wing will give downforce but lots of drag, so unless it's a rally cross circuit it'll make the car slower.
coil overs are a must, that would improve lap time alot. and rollbars of course. then get as much weight reduction as possible, good tires. and even tho you said it's better only getting better brake pads i think it's better to upgrade the whole thing cause if they fade after 2 corners then you're done. obviously you'll never beat a supercar with this bugget and this car, you'd have to build a new car from the ground up, but these would be some of the best options.
i have an 07 wrx wagon and they cost a lot to build right t and fast. i'm at around $25000 (including car) and 550whp but only cause i do all the work and fab work
Gutting it, removing the aircon and adding some super sticky tyres is probably going to give you the most bang for your buck, trying to get more power out of it is going to be risky because scoobies can be a bit fragile. Don't bother with aero, you're not going to be going fast enough to make any appreciable gains that you couldn't get with adjusting tyre pressure, don't waste money on non functional parts. Suspension, ARBs and strut braces will allow you to tune the natural understeer out (have it professionally aligned) and then spend what you've got left on a turbo, injectors, boost controller, intercooler and an ecu remap.
Strip, half cage, second hand wheels, Yokohama semi slicks, turbo and light rebuild, poly bush, second hand bigger callipers, good seats and coil overs. If you do it right, definitely plenty of budget
on the aero side: make a front splitter out of plywood, vent the top of the front fenders, DIY aluminium sheets for flat floor + diffuser. i also second putting wide, massive slicks on the car, at least 17x9 255
For overall lap time with a vehicle like this Colin Chapman comes to mind: "simplify, then add lightness". I personally would gut the car of anything unnecessary, reduce the rotating mass of the steel wheels with something lighter, add some sticky track focused tires, switch that God forsaken clutch for a lighter punchier one, upgrade the suspension and brakes (definite must!). If there is any budget left, then begin with exhaust and other power related mods. Have fun guys!
Make it lighter! And: buy good lightweight wheels, best suspension you can and set it up for track, best brakes you can and best tires. And nitro it. Of course fix clutch and make sure you've got good cooling. Don't do any intake/exhaust/turbo bullshit!
My 04 wrx wagon stock ripped a 2017 sti from the dig twice on the streets. I had 200lbs of tools and outdoor gear. Plus my dog in the back seat. The sti owner was riding alone and was blown away because my husky was hanging his head out the window and still gapping him haha. Love my wagon!!!
@@magicstew45 the 2017 Sti has 80hp more. It has the ej25 with a larger turbo and puts out 305hp. My Wrx wagon has the ej20 that puts out 227hp. It's is 400lbs lighter but definitely has less power and is at a disadvantage.
Ripping all of the interior out will give you free performance(it's already more practical because of the wagoning), tires and suspension will make that even more effective, see where you are at after that
Beat a Supercar in that? You're going to need more than 300bhp and to stop wasting money on steering wheels, wings and new alloys. Start with a set of Pirelli hillclimb/sprint tyres to maximise the grip over a lap...
@@kurtlamprecht93 when we're talking about seeing which is faster, does it matter about being road legal? You can't race on the road anyway. Of course, there are loads of road legal hillclimb tyres, but they're not the ones I was referring to.
In the US I would say this challenge is much easier. The junkyard LS build is so easy and abundant and you gain a lot of power with less road legal restrictions.
Get the recip out and remove all the weight, add the cheapest race seat and lightweight battery. Clutch. Set of coilovers and best tyres, some used bigger calipers,discs,pads that'll fit. Upgrade exhaust, air filter, turbo and an extreme remap, splitter and wing? Look for used parts to save money. Minimum super unleaded to do a lap, practice driving it beforehand.
Yes, a wrx can be an absolute monster for 15k. Ive been planning on building my wagon with an aftermarket block, rotated turbo, built 5-speed with blast plates and some other goodies. I want to be pushing 450whp
No aero, leave the stock steering, keep the stock wheels. Shocks and springs, sway bars, GOOD tires, alignment, brake pads and braided lines with high temp fluid. Intake, exhaust, clutch, intercooler, injectors, flashed/chipped ecu and whatever Chinese turbo they sell as a bolt on upgrade for an sti.
R spec tyres on standard rims, brake pads braided lines and fluid, sway bars front and rear, weight reduction, 3 inch exhaust, intercooler, turbo, tune, win with money to spare.
Drop weight. Lose everything you can. Intake,exhaust, dont need crazy high end. Cobb tuning has some good packages. Turbo upgrade with injectors. Change the torque rod on the back of the engine under the intercooler. Add chassis bracing. Get the biggest brakes you can afford. Calipers,rotors, pads the works. Full suspension. If you cant outrun it out brake it. And do not skimp on tires. And put a roll cage in with proper seats. 6 point should keep it practical still.
Couldn’t agree more. Just take semi slick, road legal tyres and put them on the rims you have. If you want white wheels just buy a couple of rattle cans and paint by yourself. Aero will not help at all, spoilers only will add drag. If you want to do aero, just tape over all panel gaps to have less wind resistance. Cheapest option to go faster would be to strip all from the car which you don’t need to make it as light as possible. Weld all the spot welded seems to make it more stiff and handle corners better.
turbo, full exhaust (including downpipe) injectors, fmic, tune, should get you 200kw at all four wheels. Add heaps of lightness, some coilovers and some Adjustable swaybars and it'll be a weapon
The challenge is improve handling, improve braking, then improve power. Skip new wheels, skip new steering wheel, skip the wing. Spend outside the budget on improving your own skills. I’ve seen videos where a professional driver in a camery beat non professional drivers in supras. This car will be a momentum car - get good at taking corners fast.
Some good semi slicks, ofc Stripping the interior is free Plenty of good shocks for under 2k like BC Racing Sway bars aren't too bad And OEM junkyard cheap clutch. Only need one good lap out of it, can save money not getting something new new
Colin Furze did a psycho version of this on a show called FFF years ago. He stripped down every bit of body work in the end and just had a rollcage wrapped in clingfilm. He took out all the exhaust, pipes. It was so loud.
Your tyres suspension and geometry are the 3 most important things by far. Since it’s purely for track you could run some ridiculous geo setup and it would dramatically improve lap times and combine that with aggressive r spec semi slick tyres. Weight reduction next and power and aero last. Also be careful as to what cheap aftermarket wheels you buy as a lot can be heavier than oem. Might be advantageous to run a lighter second hand oem wheel off an sti or something as some of these came with forged wheels. As for the brakes you can cheap out run the rotors with good quality pads and change to new brake fluid. If the fluid is old the pedal could go long before you even do 1 lap 😂
Second hand STI , brakes and suspension will improve the car on a budget. You can get second hand STI wheels though I wouldn't suggest that this would greatly improve your lap time unless your clearing a big brake kit or you need a new size to aid wheel tyre choice. I'd recommend semi slick tyres although you are in the UK and it wouldn't help with practicality. I would recommend a flex fuel sensor so you can run ethanol which will help to safely boost power. The intercooler is pretty big and tests have shown that there isn't much of an improvement with new cold air induction system so I would say there isn't much point doing the induction unless your relocating the turbo and pushing over 400hp. The biggest restriction on the exhaust is the cat and in particular the downpipe for which there will probably be a part you can buy with the turbo. These engine are really rather weak so this may sound silly but I'd recommend nos be professionally mapped to help aid lag and throttle response of your big turbo and to also potentially boost top end. In terms of power for the money which won't damage the engine too much I think it makes sense.
"I've picked, a GIANT V8" You can buy said giant V8 on ebay within the budget; from around £4200 ($5130), sometimes included with the gearbox attached (which would include the clutch, thereby solving that problem). Essentially, what I'm saying is, LS SWAP IT!!!
@@kurtlamprecht93 From the land of selling sh**e, Ebay; DON'T TRY THIS (Not even a "don't try this at home") To add to the statement, I only searched it out of curiosity after a "GIANT V8" was mentioned....
Love the idea for this series! 1. Don’t you dare get Rota wheels please. They’re heavy, cheap China garbage that fall apart easily and have been known to break while being tracked!!! I’d highly recommend Kosei K1s. My 15” wheels weigh 13.5 LBS each which is easily one of the biggest differences in performance for the price and they cost just as much! Idk if k1s come large enough but koseis or enkei are your best bet. I love the WRX wagon but personally I’d have taken a cheap Miata or maybe MR2 chassis, K swap it for a few thousand and then slap a turbo on it and it’s making 500hp stock then focus on suspension ;)
Toyosport exaust STI wheels (fit brembos ) with nanyang tires Sti front callipers and disc, + etc rpm pads bc rm suspension or Sti suspension anti lift kit( very important on this cars) vf 35 turbo, + pink sti inyectors + wallbro 255 fuel pump + sti intercooler(or big front mount intercooler, even cheaper) remap do a big weight reduction, With that you will have a 350 horsepower fast spooling car with decent handling. Very competent
I wouldnt do wheels and a wing, if you just wanna be quicker. Set of semi slicks for the original wheels Exhaust Maybe a hybrid turbo A proper tune Front mount intercooler Clutch Suspension (coilovers and if there is money left sway bars) Pads and rotors
A Toyota Celica VVTLI cost just £1000, it has 192 BHP, it is a very light car, very easy to tune and it can support a turbocharger which could bring the power over 300 BHP. The only downside is that it is a FWD car.
No offense, but for a real budget option, don't forget second hand option. For example, I got a set of yellow Koni shocks with Koni springs for 250 bucks, barely used. Anyway I'm interested in this series, great idea this!
Tyres, suspension and sway bars should be the first mods considered. Shed as much weight as possible and do any legal chassis stiffening. Then think about power.
I would not give it a massive wing, I'm thinking less drag and more focus on mechanical grip because it's an all-wheel drive. Give it light weight rims and top quality tyres. Upgrade the suspension & brakes, replace the clutch (obviously), clean and tune the engine, increase the air intake/turbo, reduce the weight, and replace the exhaust. I wouldn't expect to get a good laptime just by increasing power, and I wouldn't expect more than small gains in HP for this car without an engine swap. you're gonna find better laps by giving it more grip to play to its strength (all wheel drive), reducing weight and drag, and giving it more stopping power (assuming the track will have at least one heavy braking zone). I think it will be cheaper to increase mechanical grip than it would be to give it enough HP to make a difference.
EP2: th-cam.com/video/kYg1PqeKbrs/w-d-xo.html - See how the Subaru compares against the supercar on a lap!
Mr. Mansell. I found the Driven Media channel from Driver61. I subscribed because of this series. Thanks for green lighting it.
im sorry but out of all that cars there is and you got that shit....... FFS guys and also stop trying to coppppppppy @donutmedia
even if it breaks to pieces at the end of the lap, you still win, so a weight reduction montage would be good
i totally agree
Colin Chapman agres.
Surely ducktape over the rear boot and back doors?? That'll be a bit of weight down...
Yes we're expecting PMMA replacing glass (with holes drill in the non-visible sections in the doors a la MX-5) and a huge pile of removed interior and unnecessary internals with light weight seats. Also try a Li-ion battery, swapping the metal fuel tank for a ~20L polymer based bag and if you can DIY a fibreglass body (using chopped strand mat with an epoxy that curse at room temperature and using the existing body as a mould) that'd be amazing.
Don't forget about the road legal oart of the bet
You should do a control lap. Do a lap now to see how much a mod gains in time
Maybe a control lap after they install the clutch but idk whether they’d want to do a bunch of upgrades at once if they’re taking out exhaust driveshafts and trans to do the clutch.
Great idea!
👏
Two control laps. One with the current clutch, one with the new clutch 😅
Since they're on a budget, no steering wheel, keep current wheels unless they severely limit width, clutch, brakes, lightening, suspension. *Then* start thinking about power.
If the wheels they were looking at were lighter, then they could get a performance boost.
@@rpgspyware9560 but wheels are expensive, and that money could save a lot more time when put elsewhere
@@rpgspyware9560 i dont think 170 pound wheels are gonna be lighter than the stock ones. Also since this is an estate it should already have 225 tires which will be plenty effective once they get rid of atleast150 kilograms of weight.
@@rpgspyware9560 It would be cheaper to rip out the seats they don’t need!
@@kurtlamprecht93 but they were not RPF1s they were a cheap rep of them
best option: chuck everything you dont need out of the car, but just enough stuff that it stays legal
I didn't hear any rules about it having to be legal :D Just quicker over a lap at a track. Toss the headlights and tail lights and maybe the doors too
@@albertwong5793 they mentioned it at the beginning that the car has to still be road legal
@@kurtlamprecht93 they said it once but didnt really acknowledge it so i just plopped it in the comments
@@albertwong5793 they said the rules. Budget, road legal, more useful and they have to drive it. 0:28
This is extremely high quality content. Well done!
Quality as always*
As soon as they mention buying alloys and changing the steering wheel you know they are gonna blow the budget on crap and lose
As soon as the guy scoffed at tires and said power instead
if they actually buy a new steering wheel im gonna unsubsribe and never watch a video from them again.
@@robertjusic9097, Seems a bit harsh doesn’t it?
Lightweight wheels are an immense upgrade FYI
@@gerardofiano4866 Yeh could blow £7k on a set of Magnesium wheels plus tyres but not the best way value for money to complete the challenge
weight reduction should be a main focus. remove all the sound installation and rear seats. You might then be able to sell the rear seats and spend that money on more mods.
Not sure if it still counts as practical if you remove the rear seats
@@razghost2 a van is considered practical even if it doesn't have a back seat. This would still be a two-seater, it just would have an enclosed cargo area.
@@razghost2 it needs to be more practical than a supercar, not more practical than stock form
Because of the budget an goal, keep the stock wheels as long as they allow a wide enough tire, keep the steering wheel stock, don't mess with putting a wing or splitter, best budget track tires, brakes pads, suspension, and cut everything you can out of the interior to reduce weight, then a bit of power for the rest of the money, and obviously fix the clutch.
Exactly, it worried me how they seemed to be focussing on the wrong things!
Order of importance.
Turn up
Low weight
Big grip
Just a little bit of power
What would make a better steering wheel? He mentioned the stock one being "massive."
the buy was genius, clutch is a great upgrade
100% on the best tyres available + lighter wheels
brakes
suspension
then engine mods
Congrats, you've hit jackpot with this channel and series. This is going to become big.
Totally.
Just don't change. Top gear started getting sh*t when the lads realised how funny/popular they were.
Swap out the downpipe, up-pipe, injectors, fuel pump, boost controller, turbo inlet (NOT the intake!). stock catback and intake will not be a restriction at 300hp. For turbo Get either a used VF48 or like an FP Blue and run a used STI intercooler off the newer STIs along with a used 04-05 STI hood scoop and ducting. Dont cheap out on the tune and get it tuned for e85. Leave the stock wheels and go for as wide of a tire as you can fit. If youre concerned about braking get some used Subaru 4pots for the front and run some DOT 5 with aggresive pads. Pull as much of the interior as is reasonable, remove all the AC for weight savings. you could relocate the battery to the rear so the car isn't so nose heavy.
The trick here is going to be used parts, the subaru parts market is huge and Takeoff parts like Factory turbos and intercoolers are a lot cheaper than aftermarket.
The old Top gear vibe is very strong. Please more of this
I'm loving these videos because of this exact reason, this is what top gear should have been after the reboot
Yeah , it's great. Because it's natural, down to earth, and not *trying* to be funny.
Presumably this was intended but I'm not complaining this is good
This is definitely the most British take on Mighty Car Mods. Just needs a brew and a channel rebrand to Average Car Mods
Yeah, I can see Marty just going: 'Here guys, just put this list in.' Because he knows how to "DESTROY ALL NISSANS"
@@Mach1048 takes the clutch out... IN THE BIN
That is where that Clutch needs to go.
You've apparently never heard of Project Binky 😉
Spiffing Auto Alterations
To me, what is really going to make this challenge interesting is, Subaru wagons are prone to understeer. Handling will be your best friend to beating a supercar. Tires are the first most important factor. Get the best tires for track racing. Suspension is the second most important. Then weight and braking. You only need enough power to get up to 150mph in a decent time. Maintaining that speed is the most important.
What about the track? The would need to know how it is structured first, then it would be better to decide on what parts are the best. I agree that this would be the best allrounder. Maybe Something to increase Performance ?
Please do recommend mods for this car! If you know something that will make it quicker - comment below!
Racing stripes, duh.
You have to put flame stickers on it 😂
They should paint a massive Scottish flag and blast the well known meme through hideous speakers, that'll definitelly slow your lambo down.
a KAPS squerntial transmission
A front splitter will do wonders for handling
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Racing stripes & flames will make it go faster though
I like the direction this channel is taking. A lot of varied content. I like those more funny vids but I hope you'll keep the vids about F1 as well!
C5 Corvette. It is more practical than a supercar but budget would be very tight for mods. The Scoob needs a lot of $$$ to go fast. Much more than 13k in mods. I know, I’m on my 3rd Subaru.
I was expecting a Subaru cos it comes with awd as standard. And since you mostly get them with a 2.0 it leaves you with plenty of options to play around with hp and torque
@@kurtlamprecht93 I find it a good basis for the challenge. I could go in to further details but it would be fairly lengthy more than I have time for now to explain sorry! But google around and you will references to the 2.0 V4 being referred to as the “perfect” engine
@@kurtlamprecht93 Look up here on TH-cam. Search “Perfect car engine”
@@Bluefox1978 1.8t 20v bam is perfect
@@timverelst1471 @KurtLamprecht true. I’ve also seen 2.2 vtec from Honda. It is not that it MUST BE 2.0 or not. My pov is just that when you hear about flat 4 engines from street legal car that can compete with supercars it very often ends up with a 2.0. Why this is so are more or less explained in some of that videos you find here searching “the perfect car engine”. Should I be guessing myself I would say that has something to do with how much combustion pressure you get relatively to torque, weight and fuel consumption and in that perspective have the optimal conditions with a V4 2.0.. Further argumentation would for me require a mechanical engineer specialized in combustion engines
This series will be worth watching. I would prefer if Lambo's lap time would be known and Subaru made base lap time after clutch change.
you lost me at steering wheel... 😂um no
remove everything from the car to get it light, really good tire, really good suspension, and a bit more power
That's what I thought as well, but they want it to be practical so some things might have to stay...
@@LumaControl They could argue that ripping everything out the back keeps it more practical due to having loooads of cargo space. Only needs to beat a lambo or whatever for practicality sake.
I'd just go absolutly nuts ripping out every single piece of interior, rear glass, rear seats etc. Weight is everything!
yep, as long as it's still more practical at the end remove as much as possible
Pull out the comforts like air con and some interior bits and sell them to help pay for performance parts.
That AWD is going to be a disadvantage if you're only looking at pushing around 300bhp, with the extra drivetrain loss and weight. I'm assuming it'll be a dry lap though.
Mods that are super cost effective and give you lots of lap time:
Antiroll bar
Tires
"weight reduction"
Larger intercooler piping (Subaru's choke themselves a bit)
In order of importance - gut the interior, cup sport 2's for 1500, suspension 1000, brakes 700, race clutch & flywheel 1500, MD321V turbo 2000, injectors 500, front mount 1000, rods 1000, pistons 800, head bolts/gaskets 500, exhaust 500. Sell the gutted interior and buy an Ebay Nitrous system for 500.
This channel is filling my top gear void
A bit late for this, but don’t bother with nice looking wheels. You need light ones, not flashy ones. Also the stock steering wheel will do just fine for one lap. Get good tires and suspension first, before adding more power. Also you really don’t need all those seats, carpets, trim pieces, stereo system, etc. Lot of unneccessary weight. You can also save a few kilos on taking out the fog lights, a sunroof delete, and surprisingly, emptying your windshield washer reservoir(that in itself is 2-5 kilos, depends on the capacity!!). For brakes, I’d go for EBC pads, and maybe some vented Brembo discs.
the most important things you should splash the cash on;
-wheels & tires
-brake pads
Depending on the condition on the current rotors, you might be able to get away with the stock ones since you're only doing 1 lap. Unless you could find used uprated brakes for cheap
as a subaru fan i love this series,more the fact that i also want a wagon like that only they're nearly unabtainable where i live,makes th is even more perfect,cant wait to see the series!
This is going to be an amazing series.
If it is an on track race suspension and tires are obvious but upgraded rear limited slip and replacing the front open diff with an LSD is a must. That will definitely improve handling and have ultimate grip and power delivery.
Tires are a must, go splashing on them. Then I'd suggest a power tuning with some massive turbo, maybe a twin-scroll setup would do the trick and give enough power through a bigger rev range. Also, Chassis rigidity is necessary, so add on some cowl braces, frame rails, and also some other braces. Lastly, to carry the speed through the corners, fit in some stiff coils. Swapping the steering wheel and other stuffs is not necessary, which won't give a lot of power. But to deal with the increased power, clutch and brake upgrades are.
Great idea for a series - subscribed. Don't waste your money on a steering wheel. Strip EVERYTHING out of it. Doesn't cost anything and you can sell the parts and spend more on mods.
What happened to my prize?
:-(
1. Weight removal, it's FREE to do, Strip that sucker to nothing
2. Tyres, they have the biggest impact
3. Suspension
4. Power: Turbo & Map etc
5. Brakes
6. NOS? Cheap for instant gains, you're only doing one lap
7. Aero, splittler and wing
Please don't waste money on aesthetic stuff like MOMO steering wheel and gear knob, or facny looking wheels, if the current wheels are ROUND then use them
Id buy in order of priority:
1. Tyres
2. Brakes
3.suspension
4.injectors
5.(optional) turbo
6. Map
7. Chassis stiffness ( some of which can be done for cheap like welding a brace accross the rear suspension mounting points
8.exhaust
9.(Optional if there is remaining budget) bucket seat
10. Digital standalone dash. To replace the gage cluster.
11. Every other penny goes on race fuel
12. Take a big dump before racing!
Then standard items like weight reduction and full service are a given. Same with a new clutch.
Dont faff about list:
1.spending money on new wheels if the current ones will fit the new brakes
2.Steering wheel - just take the airbag out of the current one
3. Aero - you wont be going fast enough for most aero to work, and unless your going to spend a lot of money on getting low speed downforce it wont be worth it and will just increase drag. However, a very simple flat undertray with a slight rake and some plastic side skirts could make a small amount of ground effect for pretty cheap.
4.anything cosmetic in any way. Do the wheels come painted for 10 bucks more, nope that can go on fuel.
Remember road legal is pretty widely defined and if you really wanted to go crazy you could sand off the paint or even remove the headlights (day running only) that sort of thing.
Pretty brave of you to spend that much money on a video series that may or may not pay off in the end.
But 5 minutes in and I'm loving the janky goodness already
love this, would be cool to have a series where you just buy car, modify them and race them against supercars
Big money tyres, cheapish coils,uprated ARB, poly bushes, strip interior, cheap buckets, cheap exhaust/decat, decent remap, I'd try and grab some recon brakes from an STI Etc and your away
A scoobie is a great starting point, the 4wd could really pay dividends once everything else is sorted, and of course... MORE POWER! 😂
Huge turbo... intercooler...intake..rempa.. tyres... brake pads
This is the best car content on TH-cam at the moment
Definitely get the remap and turbo
And those better tyres. Rather than a huge wing a flat underfloor pan helps airflow
where a wing slows you down at the top end
PS agreed on the idea of weight reduction
What does having a flat do? If you dont mind me asking?
Thanks
@@markrichards9934 a flat underfloor helps the air flow under the car's body improving top speed by reducing air resistance
Hagerty with Jason camissa is though to beat when it comes to car content on TH-cam. But I do love what they are doing here
I'm so glad I found this channel, its like things you do in a video game but in real life
*THIS IS TURNING INTO A TOP NOTCH CHANNEL* not channels run OUT of ideas - these guys seem like they are just getting started.
An NO clickbait titles like "no one in the car industry wants you to know this one secret" - f-king hate that.
As Colin Chapman said " for more speed, add lightness" . You need steel wheels, much lighter than alloys (although originally it was meant to be the exact opposite) which is unsprung. A big wing will give downforce but lots of drag, so unless it's a rally cross circuit it'll make the car slower.
This looks like it's going to be a great series.
coil overs are a must, that would improve lap time alot.
and rollbars of course.
then get as much weight reduction as possible, good tires.
and even tho you said it's better only getting better brake pads i think it's better to upgrade the whole thing cause if they fade after 2 corners then you're done.
obviously you'll never beat a supercar with this bugget and this car, you'd have to build a new car from the ground up, but these would be some of the best options.
Stock brakes don't fade to easily now.
i have an 07 wrx wagon and they cost a lot to build right t and fast. i'm at around $25000 (including car) and 550whp but only cause i do all the work and fab work
Gutting it, removing the aircon and adding some super sticky tyres is probably going to give you the most bang for your buck, trying to get more power out of it is going to be risky because scoobies can be a bit fragile. Don't bother with aero, you're not going to be going fast enough to make any appreciable gains that you couldn't get with adjusting tyre pressure, don't waste money on non functional parts. Suspension, ARBs and strut braces will allow you to tune the natural understeer out (have it professionally aligned) and then spend what you've got left on a turbo, injectors, boost controller, intercooler and an ecu remap.
this is the comment
it's like the Aventine eps. in Top Gear 😂
Brakes
Wheels
Suspension
Weight Reduction
Aero
Power ! ! !
😁😁😁 can't wait for the next episodes!!!
Strip, half cage, second hand wheels, Yokohama semi slicks, turbo and light rebuild, poly bush, second hand bigger callipers, good seats and coil overs. If you do it right, definitely plenty of budget
How long before Scott slaps the F1 wheels on this?
The apostrophe instead of a comma in the title is making me so mad.
Apostrophe is normal in Europe , comma is only a North American thing (usually)
@@Ben-go1iq Not everywhere in Europe. In Germany we use dots.
@@TheBest-ee2lr Same here in Spain. That apostrophe look very weird to me haha
on the aero side: make a front splitter out of plywood, vent the top of the front fenders, DIY aluminium sheets for flat floor + diffuser. i also second putting wide, massive slicks on the car, at least 17x9 255
For overall lap time with a vehicle like this Colin Chapman comes to mind: "simplify, then add lightness". I personally would gut the car of anything unnecessary, reduce the rotating mass of the steel wheels with something lighter, add some sticky track focused tires, switch that God forsaken clutch for a lighter punchier one, upgrade the suspension and brakes (definite must!). If there is any budget left, then begin with exhaust and other power related mods. Have fun guys!
I concur. They'll probably need all of that including the power though, otherwise they'll lose too much on the straights.
“Wagons are cool!” 🙌 well said 🤣
Remember the Volvo 850 estate touring car? They reckoned the extra length gave better cornering.
Make it lighter! And: buy good lightweight wheels, best suspension you can and set it up for track, best brakes you can and best tires. And nitro it. Of course fix clutch and make sure you've got good cooling. Don't do any intake/exhaust/turbo bullshit!
Great content , can’t wait to follow this series 💥
My 04 wrx wagon stock ripped a 2017 sti from the dig twice on the streets. I had 200lbs of tools and outdoor gear. Plus my dog in the back seat. The sti owner was riding alone and was blown away because my husky was hanging his head out the window and still gapping him haha. Love my wagon!!!
Yeah? Lol the new sti's weigh 400lbs~ more with the same hp
@@magicstew45 the 2017 Sti has 80hp more. It has the ej25 with a larger turbo and puts out 305hp. My Wrx wagon has the ej20 that puts out 227hp. It's is 400lbs lighter but definitely has less power and is at a disadvantage.
@@kaduzie_productions7257 easier to add comparable power to the old one than it is to drop the weight of the new one
Ripping all of the interior out will give you free performance(it's already more practical because of the wagoning), tires and suspension will make that even more effective, see where you are at after that
Number one mod: Weight reduction! Get those backseats, speakers, AC... everything you don't need out of the car.
Beat a Supercar in that? You're going to need more than 300bhp and to stop wasting money on steering wheels, wings and new alloys. Start with a set of Pirelli hillclimb/sprint tyres to maximise the grip over a lap...
@@kurtlamprecht93 when we're talking about seeing which is faster, does it matter about being road legal? You can't race on the road anyway. Of course, there are loads of road legal hillclimb tyres, but they're not the ones I was referring to.
This is awesome. Can't wait for the next.
This series is gonna rock
In the US I would say this challenge is much easier. The junkyard LS build is so easy and abundant and you gain a lot of power with less road legal restrictions.
This series is worth a sub
Another amazing video and I'm looking forward for the next part! 😄
Get the recip out and remove all the weight, add the cheapest race seat and lightweight battery. Clutch. Set of coilovers and best tyres, some used bigger calipers,discs,pads that'll fit. Upgrade exhaust, air filter, turbo and an extreme remap, splitter and wing? Look for used parts to save money. Minimum super unleaded to do a lap, practice driving it beforehand.
Please know good suspension and minimising unsprung mass with sticky tyres will have way more improvements than more power and aero
Yes, a wrx can be an absolute monster for 15k. Ive been planning on building my wagon with an aftermarket block, rotated turbo, built 5-speed with blast plates and some other goodies. I want to be pushing 450whp
Car Throttle already shown that MORE POWA and sticky tyres get the most significant lap time improvements with their 3 series diesel wagon. :)
No aero, leave the stock steering, keep the stock wheels.
Shocks and springs, sway bars, GOOD tires, alignment, brake pads and braided lines with high temp fluid.
Intake, exhaust, clutch, intercooler, injectors, flashed/chipped ecu and whatever Chinese turbo they sell as a bolt on upgrade for an sti.
R spec tyres on standard rims, brake pads braided lines and fluid, sway bars front and rear, weight reduction, 3 inch exhaust, intercooler, turbo, tune, win with money to spare.
"The thinking mans track car...." .confidence is key.
Drop weight. Lose everything you can. Intake,exhaust, dont need crazy high end. Cobb tuning has some good packages. Turbo upgrade with injectors. Change the torque rod on the back of the engine under the intercooler. Add chassis bracing. Get the biggest brakes you can afford. Calipers,rotors, pads the works. Full suspension. If you cant outrun it out brake it. And do not skimp on tires. And put a roll cage in with proper seats. 6 point should keep it practical still.
Wheels and steering wheel upgrade aren't going to improve lap time.
i agree. Just tyres and suspension should be considered.
Couldn’t agree more. Just take semi slick, road legal tyres and put them on the rims you have. If you want white wheels just buy a couple of rattle cans and paint by yourself.
Aero will not help at all, spoilers only will add drag. If you want to do aero, just tape over all panel gaps to have less wind resistance.
Cheapest option to go faster would be to strip all from the car which you don’t need to make it as light as possible. Weld all the spot welded seems to make it more stiff and handle corners better.
The wrx wheels aren’t the biggest , wider aftermarket’s wheels means wider slicks
Wheel is dependable, ultra light wheel would make sight noticable different
Only half right, if they can save 10kg by buying lighter and wider aftermarket alloys then thanwill certainly help improve the lap times
turbo, full exhaust (including downpipe) injectors, fmic, tune, should get you 200kw at all four wheels. Add heaps of lightness, some coilovers and some Adjustable swaybars and it'll be a weapon
The challenge is improve handling, improve braking, then improve power.
Skip new wheels, skip new steering wheel, skip the wing.
Spend outside the budget on improving your own skills. I’ve seen videos where a professional driver in a camery beat non professional drivers in supras. This car will be a momentum car - get good at taking corners fast.
Don't forget that it doesn't have to be practical, just more practical than your opponent!
Some good semi slicks, ofc
Stripping the interior is free
Plenty of good shocks for under 2k like BC Racing
Sway bars aren't too bad
And OEM junkyard cheap clutch. Only need one good lap out of it, can save money not getting something new new
Now this is something people would love to see 👍
Colin Furze did a psycho version of this on a show called FFF years ago. He stripped down every bit of body work in the end and just had a rollcage wrapped in clingfilm. He took out all the exhaust, pipes. It was so loud.
Great buy! Who cares if the clutch slips if you're going to upgrade it anyways. Same with the brake pads! Great job.
Your tyres suspension and geometry are the 3 most important things by far. Since it’s purely for track you could run some ridiculous geo setup and it would dramatically improve lap times and combine that with aggressive r spec semi slick tyres. Weight reduction next and power and aero last. Also be careful as to what cheap aftermarket wheels you buy as a lot can be heavier than oem. Might be advantageous to run a lighter second hand oem wheel off an sti or something as some of these came with forged wheels. As for the brakes you can cheap out run the rotors with good quality pads and change to new brake fluid. If the fluid is old the pedal could go long before you even do 1 lap 😂
Second hand STI , brakes and suspension will improve the car on a budget. You can get second hand STI wheels though I wouldn't suggest that this would greatly improve your lap time unless your clearing a big brake kit or you need a new size to aid wheel tyre choice. I'd recommend semi slick tyres although you are in the UK and it wouldn't help with practicality.
I would recommend a flex fuel sensor so you can run ethanol which will help to safely boost power. The intercooler is pretty big and tests have shown that there isn't much of an improvement with new cold air induction system so I would say there isn't much point doing the induction unless your relocating the turbo and pushing over 400hp.
The biggest restriction on the exhaust is the cat and in particular the downpipe for which there will probably be a part you can buy with the turbo.
These engine are really rather weak so this may sound silly but I'd recommend nos be professionally mapped to help aid lag and throttle response of your big turbo and to also potentially boost top end. In terms of power for the money which won't damage the engine too much I think it makes sense.
In for it. Understand the need for cheap wheels but I hate cheap reps
"I've picked, a GIANT V8"
You can buy said giant V8 on ebay within the budget; from around £4200 ($5130), sometimes included with the gearbox attached (which would include the clutch, thereby solving that problem).
Essentially, what I'm saying is, LS SWAP IT!!!
@@kurtlamprecht93 From the land of selling sh**e, Ebay; DON'T TRY THIS (Not even a "don't try this at home") To add to the statement, I only searched it out of curiosity after a "GIANT V8" was mentioned....
Love the idea for this series! 1. Don’t you dare get Rota wheels please. They’re heavy, cheap China garbage that fall apart easily and have been known to break while being tracked!!! I’d highly recommend Kosei K1s. My 15” wheels weigh 13.5 LBS each which is easily one of the biggest differences in performance for the price and they cost just as much! Idk if k1s come large enough but koseis or enkei are your best bet. I love the WRX wagon but personally I’d have taken a cheap Miata or maybe MR2 chassis, K swap it for a few thousand and then slap a turbo on it and it’s making 500hp stock then focus on suspension ;)
8:33 "I think you should always spend the most on tires"... while taking about what WHEELS to get lmao
Toyosport exaust
STI wheels (fit brembos ) with nanyang tires
Sti front callipers and disc, + etc rpm pads
bc rm suspension or Sti suspension
anti lift kit( very important on this cars)
vf 35 turbo, + pink sti inyectors + wallbro 255 fuel pump + sti intercooler(or big front mount intercooler, even cheaper)
remap
do a big weight reduction,
With that you will have a 350 horsepower fast spooling car with decent handling. Very competent
I wouldnt do wheels and a wing, if you just wanna be quicker.
Set of semi slicks for the original wheels
Exhaust
Maybe a hybrid turbo
A proper tune
Front mount intercooler
Clutch
Suspension (coilovers and if there is money left sway bars)
Pads and rotors
Rip out the rear seat, seatbelts, sound deadening etc. Easy to do and doesn't cost anything. Helps alot on the track.
A Toyota Celica VVTLI cost just £1000, it has 192 BHP, it is a very light car, very easy to tune and it can support a turbocharger which could bring the power over 300 BHP. The only downside is that it is a FWD car.
Such a great idea for a series
No offense, but for a real budget option, don't forget second hand option. For example, I got a set of yellow Koni shocks with Koni springs for 250 bucks, barely used. Anyway I'm interested in this series, great idea this!
Tyres, suspension and sway bars should be the first mods considered. Shed as much weight as possible and do any legal chassis stiffening. Then think about power.
Screw practicality, chop off the wagon portion, throw out interior, delete ac, chop off exhaust at the cats, throw on a bigger turbo and remap
im subbing just for this series
I would not give it a massive wing, I'm thinking less drag and more focus on mechanical grip because it's an all-wheel drive. Give it light weight rims and top quality tyres. Upgrade the suspension & brakes, replace the clutch (obviously), clean and tune the engine, increase the air intake/turbo, reduce the weight, and replace the exhaust.
I wouldn't expect to get a good laptime just by increasing power, and I wouldn't expect more than small gains in HP for this car without an engine swap. you're gonna find better laps by giving it more grip to play to its strength (all wheel drive), reducing weight and drag, and giving it more stopping power (assuming the track will have at least one heavy braking zone).
I think it will be cheaper to increase mechanical grip than it would be to give it enough HP to make a difference.
just subscribed, cant wait for progress!