This might be the BEST and most explanatory MC component tear-down/re-build video I have EVER seen on TH-cam. Can't believe there are only 1400-ish views. Clearly the dude has some sort of engineering or mechanical background and has an innate sense of what the parts actually DO... As far as the torque on that splined compression tube being too hot from the factory he's DEAD-ON-ACCURATE...there's no reason on God's earth they should ever spin something down into micro-threading that hard...it's a recipe for disaster...and no mechanical or environmental forces that would EVER cause it to spin loose during use...the best!!
Matt Fellows i really appreciate your comment. My goal this video was to ensure it was as clear as possible. And from your comment, i was able to accomplish that. I hope the rest of my videos are able to help you out as well. I look forward to hearing from you in future vids. Thanks bro.
I've done a lot of fork seals but would have been lost on these forks without this video so my hats off to you, best U tube instructional video I have ever seen!!
My name is Charles. I'm using my wife's computer to know how to change my fork seals. This is the most dead on tutorial of this sort of tedious work I've ever seen. (I like Batman too lol). I really enjoyed every bit of this video. I give you much props my guy. Thanks for sharing this with the world to view. I will be performing this task once my seals are ordered.
Awesome! I really appreciate that you took out the time to tell me what you think Charles and I thank you for it. I wanted to make this info free to the masses since there was only a paid for video and another one with not much explanation or lighting. So I set out to make the best comprehensive vid I can about this mystifying subject. I'm glad to know that my videos are helping people and if I can make you guys learn, save money and smile while doing it, then I did my job and gave back to the TH-cam community. I really hope your project goes well. (Takes forever so free up an afternoon and order some pizza and beer if you drink) Because we all know that nothing really gets fixed unless you have a drink in one hand and a wrench in the other. Cheers bro! I'm here if you need me.
This is the most succinct, clear and straightforward video regarding fork service. Especially the seals part. I was always afraid of doing seals until I saw this video.
Xenomorpheus Adam12 thanks a lot bro. Im glad i could help. There was a guy doing these seals that charged for the video and another one that wasn't very clear. So my goal was to make a free and clear explanation of this service. Im glad i could help you out and i really appreciate your comment. I hope my other vids will help you out as well. Cheers bro
Thanks a lot! This video was a ton of work to put up but I'm glad that it seems to help many people. I hate it when I watch a youtube video and I don't get to see what I wanted for 5 mins. Really irritates me. I appreciate your comment bro. Ride safe and I hope to hear from you in my other vids. Cheers!
@@TheMotorcycleBoss watching all the way from Ireland.. Keep em coming man love them. And I know what your saying about guys rabbiting on and on... And on lol.. Anyways thanks for videos and reply 👍👍
I would like to say thank You for such a useful video on this topic. I am about to perform identical job on my wife's cbr1000rr and I have never done this before on showa bfp. Now I am at home. Thx a lot! 👊🇵🇱❤️ Now I am
No problem! I'm glad you are attempting this job! It's pretty involved but is pretty gratifying. Thanks a lot for posting your comment. It's always nice to hear praise for the hours of shooting and editing it took to make this video. I hope it was enough to earn you as a subscriber. Ride safe! Cheers!
If all DIY videos were as clear and concise as yours, stealerships will go out of business. Seriously, i know it's a long time ago, but this video really helped me. I have a 2014 Ducati Panigale 899 with Showa BPF. I'm fairly certain it's super close or exact the model you demo'd. Thank you again!!!
No problem! Nice bike! Thank you soo much for such a great compliment of a comment! I enjoy teaching and I can't stand stealerships and the ridiculous prices they charge. So I'm doing what I can here and there to teach everyone out there how to fix their bikes in the safest, low-cost way possible. Comments like yours is exactly why I do this. And this particular video took a very long time to film & edit but at the time, nobody had a clear video on it except for Dave Moss which you had to pay for. Thanks again and I really am glad this video helped you out! I hope I was able to earn you as a subscriber and I'm looking forward to hearing from you again in the future! Ride safe! Cheers!
@@TheMotorcycleBossI was about to subscribe and download Dave Moss' 899 Showa BPF video as well but spotted your video in time! I contributed to your beer fund!
@@tannercortes6110 I noticed! Thank you soo much! I'm glad I was able to help you. Especially a Panigale, the dealerships probably would've charged you an extra $100 just for that reason XD. I greatly appreciate your donation and I can assure you that it will be used to buy a pack of beer tonight! Have a happy Easter and be safe out there! Thanks again!
Thank you so much! It really was a lot of work. Took hours to fil & edit. I'm glad you found the video informative and helpful. I hope the video along with this response is enough to earn you as a subscriber. Thanks for watching it and good luck with your projects. Ride safe! Cheers!
Just wanted to let you know I appreciate your time. Very detailed video. I know these take a very long time to complete. I'm putting a set of 2007 zx10r forks on the front of my sportster and your video is by far the best fork seal rebuild. Thank you 🙏🏼
Thank you very much. I appreciate you taking the time to say that. This video did take forever to shoot and edit but thats just the nature of the beast. Hence why there is so many ads in it. Im glad my vid is able to help you out. I haven't checked but a sub would be greatly appreciated. My channel is all about saving money and DIY through your motorcycle. I dont typically work on harleys but the things i teach can easily apply to just about any motorcycle. I'd love it if you shared my channel with any of your biker friends as well. Thanks again and good luck with your project.
Ive replaced the fork seals on a 2008 R6 13S. In some ways the R6 was trickier as you you need a tool that screws into a rod preventing it from sinking ino the fork tube. I found the job impossible despite improvisation, accepted defeat and bought the tool to proceed with the job. Anyway, this seems a little easier than the R6 but I'll definitely refer back to your video if I need to replace fork seals on my Gen 4 ZX10R. Liked and Subscribed.
@EVil-ob8in that threaded rod tool for those forks is pretty vital. I did the same thing on my first set. Trying to do it without the tool seems difficult. The only way I can see it maybe working is if you force a rubber hose on the end and use that to lift it up. Thanks for the sub. Much appreciated!
Both Kawasaki and Suzuki Manual(for bikes with this Showa BPF) indicate to measure oil level after having installed the piston rod guide and the piston rod assembly itself. I've heard that it should be done without the piston assembly, like you did in the video. The oil level won't be the same, I guess?
I understand your concern. I have had people in the past have the same question. However, the factory service manual I have for my bike says nothing regarding the piston assembly being present when adding oil. If the piston assembly was added first then yes your oil level will be different. But no. You are not supposed to add the piston assembly before adding oil. Im 100% certain. In case you are curious, it says to add approximately 420mL (14.2 US oz) of fork oil per leg. After disassembly and completely dry: 495 + or - 2.5 mL. I hope this helps
Thanks for the video! It is so true, there is not much out there for the disassembly of the showa big piston forks! Thank you so much! Truly appreciated!!!👍
Hey thanks a lot for that bro. It took a lot of work to film and edit it all. TH-cam has given me tons of skills and knowledge so i try to do what i can to give back. I appreciate you taking the time to comment what you did. I hope to hear from you in my future videos. Cheers!
@@TheMotorcycleBoss The Motorcycle Boss I just finished the project and everything went smooth thanks to your video. I did notice my forks were a bit stiffer than usual. I did watch another video and the measuring process was different in that videos. The guy measured the fluid after he put the piston and cylinder back in. What are your thoughts?
@@metakmoto Your Dream Is Reality Hey! Im glad your project went well. I felt the same thing when I did mine and all I had to do was adjust my compression and rebound screws on top of the forks. What I noticed is that because you have old fluid, heat-cycled, full of particulates, etc. The overall viscosity of the oil has changed and we become used to it. When we add new fluid, like in my video, I used Honda oil instead of Showa. Although they maybe manufactured to similar specs, the materials used, thresholds, tolerances, and other factors in the manufacturing process can potentially change small characteristics in the oil although I doubt much if any of that is even noticable to the rider. So new oil may feel slightly different because you got used to the characteristics of the old oil. Regarding the piston being inside the assembly before checking the oil level; I don't know where people tend to find this info because many people have commented asking the same thing. Put simply, in the factory service manual, it specifically states what needs to be present inside the fork tube before checking the oil level. Even Dave Moss' video shows this. You can check the oil level with the piston assembly and cylinder sleeve installed but you will want to take note of the oil level before you begin the disassembly then fill it back up to the same point. I hope this was able to free up any confusion you may have had. I'm glad your project went smoothly. I would recommend adjusting your top screws to where you are happy and you should be fine from there. Thanks for taking the time to comment and I look forward to hearing from you in the future. Cheers!
@@TheMotorcycleBoss I really appreciate you taking the time to respond and including so much great information in the message. That definitely makes sense and I'm excited to ride now that my fork seal is happy 😁 Again thank you so much for making this video. It helped so much. Have a kick ass day bro 😊
Nice video, it's 5 years old now but still very relevant and helpful thank you. "Let Batman do it!" 😅 You should consider making videos again, they're really good. Subbed just in case you do.
Thanks! I really appreciate the support! I've honestly just been lazy and haven't had many video-worthy projects for a great while. I'm sure I'll start back up again. Just no clue when. Maybe when the next decent project arises or if I get a hair up my but and at least put out a quick tip. Glad the video was helpful and I greatly appreciate the positive boost. Hope to hear from you again in the future. Ride safe! 🍻
No problem! Thanks for commenting. I'm glad I could help! If you need to pick up any equipment, it's all in the description of this video. I hope you subbed if you haven't already. Ride safe and good luck with your projects! Cheers!
Thanks for the decent video. Last time I searched for a BPF video they were not very detailed. Your video is top shelf quality; Showa should sponsor you!
Lol thanks a lot! Im glad i was able to help you. I saw the same thing and that was why i made it my point to have as detailed a video as possible for free. Please dont mind the ads. That was how i was able to get around charging for this video. Please feel free to throw this video and my channel around to help everyone. I appreciate you taking the time to write this comment. Cheers
Great quality video, very happy to have come across it. Maybe more views would be had if you added Honda cbr1000rr into the title as they all use the BPF 2012 up till 2019. Thanks again for the effort.
Awesome video friend!Great on the spot tips without being all "too professory". Deriving from one biker to another! Thank you, for taking the time to offer knowledge for free (as should all knowledge be).
Giannis thanks a lot. TH-cam has helped me a lot in my life offering me information anywhere from rubiks cubes to cheat codes and how to tie a tie. The least i could do is offer my knowledge back to the community that has helped me grow so much over the years. Im glad you liked my video and i hope it was easily understood. I really appreciate your support and im very happy you took the time to comment on this video. I hope the rest of my videos help you out more. If there is something i can help you with, please dont hesitate to let me know.
Hello again. I happened to service my BPF's about a month ago and your video was my go to guide. It all went smoothly as i felt like I've done this thing before! A tip to anyone who may try. I didn't have the golden racetech tool so I welded together two 27mm nuts and made it happen. After i was done,I welded an extra 34mm nut on top of this new tool so as to make it easier to grab on to it while you are trying to thread it in. So basically an improved version of the tool at the cost of maybe 2€.
¡ja ja! Entiendo. Trabajar en bicicleta con amigos siempre es un momento divertido. Pero si no tienes una cerveza en la mano, ¿hiciste algo? - Google Translate
Great video but I have to question just leaving the fork to sit after oil fill. Every suspension I've seen or worked with slides the outer up and down slowly to bleed all the air out. Letting it sit will not necessarily encourage air to move to the surface.
Very good video. Mr.Boss, t that helped me a lot to replace the seals of my CBR100RR 2017 SC77 Honda forks. But I found a major difference according to the official Honda workshop manual. Honda recommends to measure the oil level (84 mm) after installation of inner parts, big piston, spring, damping rod etc. With your method the air chamber might be to small leading to a very progressive suspension afterwards, because inserting the parts into the oil filled fork afterwards lets the oil level rise significantly
Thanks for your comment! If you happen to have gone through some of the other comments on this video, this difference has already been addressed. In the ZX10R factory service manual, the oil level is checked as shown in this video. This rebuild method also aligns with Dave Moss' video tutorial on these as well. I spoke to Showa themselves regarding this and they confirmed the order specified in this video. However; manufacturers such as Honda may recommend a different method & specs; which is fine. Always follow the order specified by your factory service manual. Aside from that detail, the disassembly and reassembly are the same regardless of manufacturer. I hope this helps!
@@TheMotorcycleBoss Many Thanks, Mr.Boss, you are right, it's specified in the Honda Workshop for the CBR1000RR BPForks (only). Anyway, I followed your advices with the plastic bags and the elctrical tape and it worked phantastic! I'm very happy with the results. Keep up the good work....
Nicely done - very thorough, very clear and concise. Well-spoken instruction too. Thanks for providing the links for the tools too. I'll be doing this procedure on a set of Showa forks soon, so now I know what's involved. Keep up the great work!
Thank you! I appreciate you taking the time to comment. I was trying my best to make it as thorough as possible. I'm glad you found it useful. I hope this was enough to earn you as a subscriber. I look forward to hearing from you in the future. Good luck on your project! Ride safe! Cheers!
@@TheMotorcycleBoss I will definitely subscribe. Check out my TH-cam channel when you have a chance. I use a similar approach and try to show how to do MC repairs with regular everyday tools whenever possible. Have a great weekend!
Correct me if I'm wrong but the service manual shows to check the Fork Fluid level AFTER the Rod guide case (the threaded part that's done up to 90nm originally) is seated and torqued. IF this is the case it might explain why it felt a little off when you rode it as you set the fluid way too high if it was done without that being installed as shown.
Service manual indicates to measure the oil level as you say. However; I was following Dave Moss' video on this where he does it prior as shown in this video. The reason the forks felt a little off was because they were leaking and I had less oil than I should've before this install and I got used to it. All I needed to do was adjust my compression screw and it went back to normal. Been years riding with them like this and absolutely zero issues.
@@TheMotorcycleBoss That makes sense that the fork level was adjusted to compensate for the removal of said parts. That information would be harder to find than the service manual. I "think" and i could be wrong but the service manual calls for 84mm vs RACETECHs suggested 115mm and this would probably be the reason why even though its not clearly stated.
By far the easiest to understand and most clear motorcycle component tear down video I’ve seen. Clearly your very knowledgeable about the components and tools your working with. Awesome work mate. One question though, you said if only doing an oil change you could drain the oil (and I assume refill) without taking out the piston rod assembly... How do you measure the oil air gap if you haven’t taken it out?
Thanks a lot. You want to measure the height of the oil first, then drain. When you fill it back up, you just get it to match the same level as before that you measured.
Thanks! Glad to help. It'll be a good 2-4 hour job for the average person so be prepared for that. Music, maybe a friend, and lots of beer (but not too much). Good luck with your project. Lmk how it goes. Thanks for taking the time to tell me what you think.
Excellent video thanks!! Totally THE BEST I've found for these forks, which I have on my Triumph Thruxton 1200 R...now all I need to do is wait for the special tool to arrive in the post :-)
Thanks a lot! I'm glad it was helpful to you. When I needed to do my forks, there was little free info on the topic. So I decided to put the most detailed vid on it I could to help everyone else out. Glad it worked out. Good luck with your project and subscribe if you haven't already. Ride safe!
Your a big help! I’ve got the exact same bike and my seals are both leaking. Great work on walking through every detail of the service and demystifying the BPF I subscribed to your channel.
daniel Silvis im really happy this video could help. It was definitely a pain to make which is why there are ads. But i would rather make things as free as possible for you guys. I hope the rest of my videos will help you or your friends out. Im looking forward to getting your input in future vids. Thanks bro
@@TheMotorcycleBoss haha I’ll try to yank the fork apart with that sleeve still in and see what happens I believe it should come all apart but we’ll see 🤷♂️
One of the best videos made for that topic. Thanks! I am working on the same forks for a CBR1000RR. Do I need to take the assembly a part to change the oil and the seals? I can't figure and that special tool. Is there a chance I can use a nut instead? What size is it?
Thanks! Yes. You should take everything apart to change the seals. However, if the seals are fine and you just need to replace the oil, you don't need to remove the cylinder that requires that special tool although it will take forever to drain and fill. You could use a nut of some sort but i don't know what size it is at the moment. You can look up the tool and it should indicate its dimensions.
Thanks a lot! I'm glad that this video helped you or was at least entertaining. Just trying to get better with camera angles and editing techniques. I appreciate your comment and I wish you the best! Cheers!
@@TheMotorcycleBoss will definately use your video next week. I'm getting the ractech part in a few days. Seals and oil are already in the cave. I saw another video , the guy explained the spring HAS a smaller side , that needs to come down. I'll take note of that if i can spot any difference. Good luck with the next video's! Greetz CJ
@@cjsgarage3662 Thanks! And I would really appreciate it if you purchased the RaceTech tool through my Amazon Affiliate link in the description if you haven't purchased it yet. Please keep me informed of the spring if there is anything noteworthy. I appreciate the comment and I wish you the best with your project! Cheers!
Thanks! No I didn't both forks are exactly the same. I did the first fork off-camera to get my tool list in order and understand the camera angles I had to achieve. Since they are both exactly the same, no need to film the other one anyway. Thanks for your comment! I hope this was enough to earn you as a subscriber. Ride safe! Cheers!
@@TheMotorcycleBoss I thought that the internals were different in each leg? On my 2018 ZX6R the left leg has the two little screws and the right has one large torx looking screw in the center.
@@dinot71 No problem. The forks I am working on in this video are the Showa Big Piston Forks (BPF). The forks you are referring to that your bike has are called the Showa Separate Function Fork or (SFF). That is the teardown video you are looking for.
Great video, and thank for putting in all that time too help all of us out there.! Although I have too correct you. When you measure the oil level, you do it without the cartridge and the cylinder in the fork. As I can see from the manual it has too be in there before you set the level I couldn’t get the oil milliliters too fit with oil level , until I found out about the cartridge.. Quite a important thing!! Please correct me if I am wrong?! Best regards
The fork oil level is actually supposed to be measured without the piston and the cylinder. However; if you are only doing a fork oil service and dont have the tool to remove the cylinder, you can measure the level before draining the fork. Then you will know what level to get it back to. But the specification for oil level is never with the dampener assembly inside. Otherwise you run the possibility of overfilling. I hope this helps you. Thanks for the support.
great video bud you explained everything extremely well i have the gen5 zx10 with the balance free forks hopefully i never have to worry about doing them but i have done a few other forks before and these definitely seem way easier than the old zx10 forks with the plastic tube that you have to compress to get to the lock nut lol
Nick 636n8r thank you very much. I hope to do a vid on the BFFs but idk when ill have to do it. There is a video on youtube that you have to pay for to see these taken apart but i wanted to make this a free vid for you guys but took me and my gf a buttload of time to do. Hence why there are so many ads on this one. I'm very happy i was able to help you and everyone else understand how these work. Thanks for the comment bro. Greatly appreciated.
Great tutorial well done...just one question, Do you measure oil level before adding the internals or after adding the internals? Some videos show measuring oil levels with internals installed.
Thanks! I appreciate it. I've had this question a few times before in the comments. Idk why other people believe that you need to check the oil level with the damper assembly inserted but this is false. Both the factory service manual as well as Dave Moss' paid video that covers the rebuild process for these forks, it clearly indicates to not have the internals inserted. Immediately after finishing installing the bushings, oil seal & dust seal; fill with oil. The only way you can rebuild these forks with the internals when you fill with oil is if you already know what the air gap is supposed to be with the internals in. The air gap level you are given is without internals. Just keep in mind that your suspension may feel slightly different than before simply due to fresh oil in the system. So be ready to tweak your rebound and compression. I hope this clears things up and I hope I've earned your sub if I haven't yet. Good luck with your project! I'm here if you have any questions. Ride safe! Cheers!
@@TheMotorcycleBoss definitely subscribed man. Did you have to back off any of the adjusters before disassembly ? Yeh Dave moss is a guru of suspension too. I have read the manual also and that's why I wonder why some measure oil level with internals in ?? They would have less oil dampening they should. Lol
@@marcusbarnes5929 Thanks for subbing! I appreciate it! I don't know why people include the internals. If it clearly shows the steps in the manual alone, then why do people put them in? Makes no sense to me lol. Regarding the adjusters, no. One of the advantages of the BPF fork system is that rebound and compression adjustment height stays the same during the rebuild process. The adjustment is internal rather than external. In short, as long as you don't move the adjuster screws in the fork cap, and when you screw the fork cap back on all the way until it bottoms out, your adjustments will remain exactly the same. There is simply a small plate that presses down on the rods to force the valves in the damper open or closed. So as long as the height adjuster screws are not touched then your adjustments will remain untouched as well. I hope this was a good enough explanation for you. Thanks for your comment!
Great video! But a quick question. Did you miss out to fit the following parts between the cylinder and fork cap? BUSHING-FRONT FORK 44065-0040 RING-O 92055-0215
Hey! Thanks for your comment. I never removed either of those parts from the fork components so they were still there during assembly. It is good practice to replace o-rings when you are in a position to do so but I felt that they weren't needing replacement. Regarding the bushing, you can see that it is still attatched to the cylinder I remove with the racetech tool. I never removed that bushing as it didn't need to be removed to install new fork seals. I hope this clears things up! Thanks for your support and I appreciate you taking time to comment. Ride safe. Cheers!
Does a breaker bar in the axle hole damage the axle hole? Do you step it up with a closer fit spacer, then bar through the spacer?im getting ready to attempt my first fork seal fix but this is my holdup. A lot of force there on the loosenup part. Top vids
There should be no issue using a breaker bar against it but wrapping a towel or rag around the breaker bar should work just fine. It'll take a lot more force to severely damage the fork in that manner. I hope your project goes well!
Hello very good video just one question what is the size of the hexagonal bronce especial tool you use to take of the silver color guide the exagonal with the tow different size I mean
Thanks for the help. You think that for Suzuki GSXR 750 2013 it will be the same? I hopen then yesterday and find my self with the silver color guide so i had to put all back together because of the special tool. And i measure and it gives me 33 mm also so i will go with this one taken in account that it the same as you just said. Thank very much
Thanks! Took a lot of time to make. I'm glad you found it helpful. I hope it was enough to earn your sub! All I do is post projects and tips about motorcycles to help you save money. Ride safe! Cheers!
Thanks for the compliment! I'm glad this video was helpful to you and I hope this was enough to earn you as a subscriber. Please keep in mind that if there are any tools you need in order to complete this job you can find them in the video description as well as a link you can click on if you are so inclined to buy me a coffee. :) best of luck with the project and if you have any questions, please feel free to reach out. Ride safe! Cheers!
Suspension might have felt a little off because you did not check the oil level (air gap) correctly you're supposed to check the level with the rod guide case and the dampening rod installed into the fork
No. The air gap was checked correctly. The damping rod and rod guide are not supposed to be installed when checking air gap. However, if you know the oil level after they are installed you can check it then. But it will take a very long time to do that because the damping rod and guide have such a small tolerance. My suspension felt off because i had new oil and not the old oil anymore. I just adjusted the rebound and compression and years later, still perfect suspension.
Thank you very much. It was a lot of work to make the vid but im sure it will help lots of people. Thanks for taking the time to let me know what you think. I hope some of my other vids will be of some use to you as well. Cheers
Great detailed explanations.......next hope to see suspension setup which would be very useful for everyone should it be as detailed as this video..... keep it up bro!
Hey thanks! No problem. I like to make videos to help out as many people as possible. I this helped you. Stick around for my other vids. You might get some useful information from them.
Do not lift the inner tube to high when installing the bushing, the oil hole on the inner leg might reach the seal and ruin it..lift it as little as possible
why do you measure the fluid before everything is in there? other videos ive seen, everything is already assembled, shock tube and everything before they measure the correct fluid level. all that's left is to screw on the cap. That might be the cause of your stiff feeling after the test ride. because if you measure the level and then assemble the remaining parts, the oil level will have risen meaning you've put too much in.
I've received multiple comments like this. 100% when you check the fluid level in these forks, you do it without the damper as indicated in the factory service manual. You can fill the oil level with everything installed but you have to know what the oil level is supposed to be with all parts assembled which most service manuals do not include that spec because they aren't supposed to be filled that way. The reason my suspension felt weird was because that bike is my daily driver and any time you get old fluid and swap it out with new fluid, you will feel a difference. So simply my settings were tuned for the old oil. I just had to turn some screws for the new oil.
Thanks! Glad you liked it. Batman is a nut for sure. I hope my video helped and I hope you subbed in case you haven't yet. Good luck on your projects! Cheers!
@@nickrider5220 your thanks is much appreciated. Even tho I haven't posted in years, I still respond to everyone I can. The video will forever be relevant as long as there are Gen4 ZX10's still on the road. Glad to be of service! Ride safe!
A way better method than using tape is cutting a strip of plastic from a plastic milk jug so that it rolls up and makes a cylinder. Position the plastic cylinder on the top of the fork tube and slide the seal on the plastic just like with a seal bullet. Once the seal is on the fork tube with the plastic protecting it on the inside you can slide the seal down past the bushing channel. To make it easier, put some greasy on the inside of the makeshift seal bullet so it slides with ease. I used to use tape as well but after being shown this method I don’t think I’d go back.
Yes. I am aware of that method as well. If you take a look at my latest fork video, I switched to using a simple sandwich bag and it seems to be a bit easier than the milk jug method in my opinion. Plus I always have sandwich bags and don't always have an empty milk jug or water bottle around. And I don't want to keep a scrap like that in my toolbox. I also see the sandwich bag as being much softer on the seal as far as edges are concerned which can further reduce the risk of slicing up the seal during installation and removal. I hope you give that method a try some time and tell me what you think. In any case, thanks for commenting and I really appreciate you taking the time to watch my video. I hope it was helpful. Ride safe! Cheers!
Jason Bradley Elmore haha! Thanks bro. I really appreciate your support. Im glad you liked the video and i hope it can help you when you do your forks. Please take a look at the rest of my videos and see if any of those can help you further. Thanks a lot!
@@TheMotorcycleBoss in India it's very hard to get the factory service manuals. and so happy for your instant reply.... Thanks. this vdo for the zx 10 r was so good and it's detailed too
Thank you very much! I did what I could to be as detailed as possible. I'm glad you found it valuable and I hope this was enough to earn you as a subscriber. Ride safe! Cheers!
i have problem after servicing this kind of fork.. there is a click sound when the tyre run through a pot hole... i have the video of it but don't no how to post it to u..all parts were in as per your video.. pls advice... thanx..
Which width the Hex from the Tool from k tech is and the size of the hole and the width of the slot. That would be Great. I would like to Build this Tool myself on the milling and turning maschine 😄
Scusa. sono un idiota e anche se per un secondo hai parlato spagnolo. nessun problema. Spero che troverai utili le informazioni del mio canale. Speriamo di avere notizie su di noi nel futuro. ¡viaja seguro! 😂
Если не лень будет переводить мой текст, все таки уровень неправильно измерен. Инструкция устроена таким образом,что по ней нужно идти шаг за шагом.и хоть это не написано конкретно, но момент проверки уровня указан уже после того, как предлагается собрать все до момента, когда останется закрутить верхнюю крышку с регулировками жёсткости. И даже на иллюстрации видно, что при проверке уровня, трубку шприца опускают именно в элемент, который затягивается с усилием 90 нм. Я тоже недавно менял масло и сделал как на видео. А теперь при просмотре видео мне стало интересно и я почитал инструкцию более внимательно. И да, в ней проверка уровня масла выполняется после сборки. Если выполнять сборку шаг за шагом. Хоть прямым текстом этого и не написано. Мне стоит снять амортизатор и убрать лишнее масло
Google Translate: Спасибо за ваш комментарий. У разных производителей могут быть разные уровни масла и процедуры, которым необходимо следовать в отношении одного и того же продукта. Если вы будете следовать тому, что написано в заводском руководстве по обслуживанию Kawasaki Ninja ZX10R 2011 года, а также пошаговым инструкциям Дэйва Мосса по этим амортизаторам, Вы заметите, что в обоих случаях они оба ясно показывают, что уровень масла необходимо проверить, как показано в этом видео. Ваша обеспокоенность по этому поводу разделена с другими, поскольку я слышал, что другие обращаются по той же причине. Из-за этого я трижды проверил правильную процедуру и мою литературу на своем велосипеде, и это должно быть сделано таким образом. Надеюсь, это прояснит ситуацию. Катайтесь безопасно! Ваше здоровье!
@@TheMotorcycleBoss спасибо. Тоже желаю приятной и безопасной езды. На самом деле, я не учел одной вещи, этот амортизатор стоит на другом мотоцикле. А я посчитал, что если амортизаторы одинаковые, то и процедуры одинаковые. Мой стоит на zx6r. Конечно, у них должны быть разные настройки и количество масла. Моя ошибка. Извиняюсь. Теперь все встало на свои места. Да кстати, видео отличное. Вы очень детально показали как это делается. 😉
@@Timingchain Переводчик Google: Без проблем! Я рад, что вы высказали свое мнение. К счастью, сейчас все прояснилось. Я ценю, что ты мой друг в мотоциклетном сообществе, и я надеюсь, что смог заслужить тебя как подписчика. Не стесняйтесь обращаться к нам, если у вас возникнут какие-либо вопросы, и я сделаю все возможное, чтобы ответить вам как можно быстрее. Оставайтесь в безопасности!
The secondary bushing you drove in, Is there any possibility that it would slide right in, or did i not do something right. my seal seated properly so i would assume the bushing had to have been far enough down... am I correct?
I've never replaced fork seals where the bushing slid in without some required force or at least some heat applied to the tube. I would be concerned honestly. Ensure the item number of your part is the proper manufacturer item number.
@@TheMotorcycleBoss they are the original bushings. First seal change they have had. It didn't slide in by itself, but I didn't have to drive it with repeated strikes. I will pull the new seal and double check it.
@@myidjosiah20 as long as it didnt just drop in without force you should be fine. The bushing should be flush with the inner shoulder it rests against. And shouldnt be proud towards the seal at all. As long as the circlip fits in the groove as well.
Clip fits fine, but I'm gonna pull it apart just to check. My first set of forks of this newer style, I have mostly done slightly older models. Great video and thanks for the speedy responce.
@@myidjosiah20 no problem. Glad my video could help. Good luck with your project. Keep in mind that if the oil in your forks are old, you may need to readjust your rebound and compression adjustments after the rebuild because the viscosity characteristics may be slightly different. I noticed that after rebuilding mine. Simple adjustment then good as new. Cheers
Tim Vella good question. Honestly, idk. All i did was measure the diameter of the chrome tube then go to home depot and try to find a close match. Don't remember the specific diameter tho.
The Motorcycle Boss thanks mate. I had my forks serviced and resprung 10months ago and they started leaking . OEM lasted 7 years and 19,000kms. I saw you didn't use a vice. I don't have one either. So was thinking of undoing the rod guide case with the fork in the bike to make it easier. Thoughts?
Tim Vella isnt a bad idea. Except that you have to be sure you have the clearance to do it above the forks. And you would have to do both at the same time in order for you to compress the forks enough to get to the cylinder. Really up to you. I would only crack it loose then remove it completely with the fork out of the bike. As long as you have a decent sized rod to go through the lower fork axle clamp, and a breaker bar, removing the cylinder out of the bike should be a piece of cake. Lmk how it goes tho
I don't have it off-hand. (Not home right now) However; if you look up the racetech tool (link to it is in the description) you may find the dimensions of the tool. I hope this helps. Good luck with your project.
Thanks! I have no idea if that year has the same forks but I'm glad to help and I appreciate your sub! Keep in mind that there are links to all my tools in the description if you want to pick anything up. Thanks for the comment and good luck with your project.
This might be the BEST and most explanatory MC component tear-down/re-build video I have EVER seen on TH-cam. Can't believe there are only 1400-ish views. Clearly the dude has some sort of engineering or mechanical background and has an innate sense of what the parts actually DO... As far as the torque on that splined compression tube being too hot from the factory he's DEAD-ON-ACCURATE...there's no reason on God's earth they should ever spin something down into micro-threading that hard...it's a recipe for disaster...and no mechanical or environmental forces that would EVER cause it to spin loose during use...the best!!
Matt Fellows i really appreciate your comment. My goal this video was to ensure it was as clear as possible. And from your comment, i was able to accomplish that. I hope the rest of my videos are able to help you out as well. I look forward to hearing from you in future vids. Thanks bro.
I've done a lot of fork seals but would have been lost on these forks without this video so my hats off to you, best U tube instructional video I have ever seen!!
My name is Charles. I'm using my wife's computer to know how to change my fork seals. This is the most dead on tutorial of this sort of tedious work I've ever seen. (I like Batman too lol). I really enjoyed every bit of this video. I give you much props my guy. Thanks for sharing this with the world to view. I will be performing this task once my seals are ordered.
Awesome! I really appreciate that you took out the time to tell me what you think Charles and I thank you for it. I wanted to make this info free to the masses since there was only a paid for video and another one with not much explanation or lighting. So I set out to make the best comprehensive vid I can about this mystifying subject. I'm glad to know that my videos are helping people and if I can make you guys learn, save money and smile while doing it, then I did my job and gave back to the TH-cam community. I really hope your project goes well. (Takes forever so free up an afternoon and order some pizza and beer if you drink) Because we all know that nothing really gets fixed unless you have a drink in one hand and a wrench in the other. Cheers bro! I'm here if you need me.
This is the most succinct, clear and straightforward video regarding fork service. Especially the seals part. I was always afraid of doing seals until I saw this video.
Xenomorpheus Adam12 thanks a lot bro. Im glad i could help. There was a guy doing these seals that charged for the video and another one that wasn't very clear. So my goal was to make a free and clear explanation of this service. Im glad i could help you out and i really appreciate your comment. I hope my other vids will help you out as well. Cheers bro
Love his videos.. Straight to the point no unnecessary yapping plus could listen to him all day very relaxing voice 😁
Thanks a lot! This video was a ton of work to put up but I'm glad that it seems to help many people. I hate it when I watch a youtube video and I don't get to see what I wanted for 5 mins. Really irritates me. I appreciate your comment bro. Ride safe and I hope to hear from you in my other vids. Cheers!
@@TheMotorcycleBoss watching all the way from Ireland.. Keep em coming man love them. And I know what your saying about guys rabbiting on and on... And on lol.. Anyways thanks for videos and reply 👍👍
I would like to say thank You for such a useful video on this topic.
I am about to perform identical job on my wife's cbr1000rr and I have never done this before on showa bfp. Now I am at home.
Thx a lot! 👊🇵🇱❤️
Now I am
No problem! I'm glad you are attempting this job! It's pretty involved but is pretty gratifying. Thanks a lot for posting your comment. It's always nice to hear praise for the hours of shooting and editing it took to make this video. I hope it was enough to earn you as a subscriber. Ride safe! Cheers!
If all DIY videos were as clear and concise as yours, stealerships will go out of business. Seriously, i know it's a long time ago, but this video really helped me. I have a 2014 Ducati Panigale 899 with Showa BPF. I'm fairly certain it's super close or exact the model you demo'd. Thank you again!!!
No problem! Nice bike! Thank you soo much for such a great compliment of a comment! I enjoy teaching and I can't stand stealerships and the ridiculous prices they charge.
So I'm doing what I can here and there to teach everyone out there how to fix their bikes in the safest, low-cost way possible. Comments like yours is exactly why I do this. And this particular video took a very long time to film & edit but at the time, nobody had a clear video on it except for Dave Moss which you had to pay for.
Thanks again and I really am glad this video helped you out! I hope I was able to earn you as a subscriber and I'm looking forward to hearing from you again in the future! Ride safe! Cheers!
@@TheMotorcycleBossI was about to subscribe and download Dave Moss' 899 Showa BPF video as well but spotted your video in time! I contributed to your beer fund!
@@tannercortes6110 I noticed! Thank you soo much! I'm glad I was able to help you. Especially a Panigale, the dealerships probably would've charged you an extra $100 just for that reason XD. I greatly appreciate your donation and I can assure you that it will be used to buy a pack of beer tonight! Have a happy Easter and be safe out there! Thanks again!
@@TheMotorcycleBoss Happy Easter be safe!
You can't see it, but I'm clapping.
So much work, so much detail! This video is amazing. Thank you for this!
Thank you so much! It really was a lot of work. Took hours to fil & edit. I'm glad you found the video informative and helpful. I hope the video along with this response is enough to earn you as a subscriber. Thanks for watching it and good luck with your projects. Ride safe! Cheers!
@@TheMotorcycleBoss definitely! Subscribed right away and already found another interesting video! 🤜
One of the best bike tech tutorial on YT. Simply and clear. Like it!
356 classic cars thanks! Im glad you liked it. Please let me know if any of my other videos help you or your friends. I appreciate it.
Just wanted to let you know I appreciate your time. Very detailed video. I know these take a very long time to complete. I'm putting a set of 2007 zx10r forks on the front of my sportster and your video is by far the best fork seal rebuild. Thank you 🙏🏼
Thank you very much. I appreciate you taking the time to say that. This video did take forever to shoot and edit but thats just the nature of the beast. Hence why there is so many ads in it. Im glad my vid is able to help you out. I haven't checked but a sub would be greatly appreciated. My channel is all about saving money and DIY through your motorcycle. I dont typically work on harleys but the things i teach can easily apply to just about any motorcycle. I'd love it if you shared my channel with any of your biker friends as well. Thanks again and good luck with your project.
@@TheMotorcycleBoss sure thing man. Just sub'd. Least I could do.
@@NN-cw9rb thanks a lot.
Ive replaced the fork seals on a 2008 R6 13S. In some ways the R6 was trickier as you you need a tool that screws into a rod preventing it from sinking ino the fork tube. I found the job impossible despite improvisation, accepted defeat and bought the tool to proceed with the job. Anyway, this seems a little easier than the R6 but I'll definitely refer back to your video if I need to replace fork seals on my Gen 4 ZX10R. Liked and Subscribed.
@EVil-ob8in that threaded rod tool for those forks is pretty vital. I did the same thing on my first set. Trying to do it without the tool seems difficult. The only way I can see it maybe working is if you force a rubber hose on the end and use that to lift it up. Thanks for the sub. Much appreciated!
Both Kawasaki and Suzuki Manual(for bikes with this Showa BPF) indicate to measure oil level after having installed the piston rod guide and the piston rod assembly itself. I've heard that it should be done without the piston assembly, like you did in the video. The oil level won't be the same, I guess?
I understand your concern. I have had people in the past have the same question. However, the factory service manual I have for my bike says nothing regarding the piston assembly being present when adding oil. If the piston assembly was added first then yes your oil level will be different. But no. You are not supposed to add the piston assembly before adding oil. Im 100% certain. In case you are curious, it says to add approximately 420mL (14.2 US oz) of fork oil per leg. After disassembly and completely dry: 495 + or - 2.5 mL. I hope this helps
Thanks for the video! It is so true, there is not much out there for the disassembly of the showa big piston forks! Thank you so much! Truly appreciated!!!👍
Damnnn nice explanation but it looks much harder than the r6 forks. But thanks for the very fine video, probably the only best one on TH-cam 🤙
Hey thanks a lot for that bro. It took a lot of work to film and edit it all. TH-cam has given me tons of skills and knowledge so i try to do what i can to give back. I appreciate you taking the time to comment what you did. I hope to hear from you in my future videos. Cheers!
Best video on bpf on internet thanks for your time on this video 😎😎😎😎
No prablem. Thanks for taking the time to comment. I appreciate it
So if i just wanted to change the oil what do i need to remove ? Just the top cap ?
best fork service walkthough I have seen, thank you!
No problem. Glad I could help you. I hope you subscribe snd take a look at my other videos. Hopefully i'll hear from you in my future posts. Cheers!
Hands down the best explanation of how to do this project. Thank you for making this video bro!
Thanks! My goal was to make this project as understandable as possible. Im glad I could help you. Good luck with your project!
@@TheMotorcycleBoss The Motorcycle Boss I just finished the project and everything went smooth thanks to your video. I did notice my forks were a bit stiffer than usual. I did watch another video and the measuring process was different in that videos. The guy measured the fluid after he put the piston and cylinder back in. What are your thoughts?
@@metakmoto Your Dream Is Reality Hey! Im glad your project went well. I felt the same thing when I did mine and all I had to do was adjust my compression and rebound screws on top of the forks. What I noticed is that because you have old fluid, heat-cycled, full of particulates, etc. The overall viscosity of the oil has changed and we become used to it. When we add new fluid, like in my video, I used Honda oil instead of Showa. Although they maybe manufactured to similar specs, the materials used, thresholds, tolerances, and other factors in the manufacturing process can potentially change small characteristics in the oil although I doubt much if any of that is even noticable to the rider. So new oil may feel slightly different because you got used to the characteristics of the old oil. Regarding the piston being inside the assembly before checking the oil level; I don't know where people tend to find this info because many people have commented asking the same thing. Put simply, in the factory service manual, it specifically states what needs to be present inside the fork tube before checking the oil level. Even Dave Moss' video shows this. You can check the oil level with the piston assembly and cylinder sleeve installed but you will want to take note of the oil level before you begin the disassembly then fill it back up to the same point. I hope this was able to free up any confusion you may have had. I'm glad your project went smoothly. I would recommend adjusting your top screws to where you are happy and you should be fine from there. Thanks for taking the time to comment and I look forward to hearing from you in the future. Cheers!
@@TheMotorcycleBoss I really appreciate you taking the time to respond and including so much great information in the message. That definitely makes sense and I'm excited to ride now that my fork seal is happy 😁 Again thank you so much for making this video. It helped so much. Have a kick ass day bro 😊
Nice video, it's 5 years old now but still very relevant and helpful thank you.
"Let Batman do it!" 😅
You should consider making videos again, they're really good. Subbed just in case you do.
Thanks! I really appreciate the support! I've honestly just been lazy and haven't had many video-worthy projects for a great while. I'm sure I'll start back up again. Just no clue when. Maybe when the next decent project arises or if I get a hair up my but and at least put out a quick tip. Glad the video was helpful and I greatly appreciate the positive boost. Hope to hear from you again in the future. Ride safe! 🍻
This video was exactly what I needed for doing the same thing on my 2017 ZX6R . Thank you!!!!!!
No problem. Glad i could help. Good luck on your project. Let me know how it goes
Dude!!! Best maintenance video ive ever seen!!!!
Thank you so much! Compliments like that really make all that work worth it! I hope to hear from you in the future. Ride safe!
Thanks for your time and help.
You make rebuild lot easier for first time
Aleksandar Stojiljkovic im glad i could help. So it did make your rebuild easier? Took me forever to shoot this video
That was a great video, thanks so much for taking the time to make it. Same forks on my 2011 GSXR750 so really helpful
No problem! Thanks for commenting. I'm glad I could help! If you need to pick up any equipment, it's all in the description of this video. I hope you subbed if you haven't already. Ride safe and good luck with your projects! Cheers!
Thanks for the decent video. Last time I searched for a BPF video they were not very detailed. Your video is top shelf quality; Showa should sponsor you!
Lol thanks a lot! Im glad i was able to help you. I saw the same thing and that was why i made it my point to have as detailed a video as possible for free. Please dont mind the ads. That was how i was able to get around charging for this video. Please feel free to throw this video and my channel around to help everyone. I appreciate you taking the time to write this comment. Cheers
Great quality video, very happy to have come across it. Maybe more views would be had if you added Honda cbr1000rr into the title as they all use the BPF 2012 up till 2019.
Thanks again for the effort.
Hey! Thanks for letting me know. Gotcha. Will do thanks
Awesome video friend!Great on the spot tips without being all "too professory". Deriving from one biker to another! Thank you, for taking the time to offer knowledge for free (as should all knowledge be).
Giannis thanks a lot. TH-cam has helped me a lot in my life offering me information anywhere from rubiks cubes to cheat codes and how to tie a tie. The least i could do is offer my knowledge back to the community that has helped me grow so much over the years. Im glad you liked my video and i hope it was easily understood. I really appreciate your support and im very happy you took the time to comment on this video. I hope the rest of my videos help you out more. If there is something i can help you with, please dont hesitate to let me know.
Hello again. I happened to service my BPF's about a month ago and your video was my go to guide. It all went smoothly as i felt like I've done this thing before! A tip to anyone who may try. I didn't have the golden racetech tool so I welded together two 27mm nuts and made it happen. After i was done,I welded an extra 34mm nut on top of this new tool so as to make it easier to grab on to it while you are trying to thread it in. So basically an improved version of the tool at the cost of maybe 2€.
Moto ,garage e birra,siete gli amici non ho mai avuto 😅❤❤❤
Saluto barman 😂🖐🖐
¡ja ja! Entiendo. Trabajar en bicicleta con amigos siempre es un momento divertido. Pero si no tienes una cerveza en la mano, ¿hiciste algo?
- Google Translate
Great video but I have to question just leaving the fork to sit after oil fill. Every suspension I've seen or worked with slides the outer up and down slowly to bleed all the air out. Letting it sit will not necessarily encourage air to move to the surface.
Very good video. Mr.Boss, t that helped me a lot to replace the seals of my CBR100RR 2017 SC77 Honda forks.
But I found a major difference according to the official Honda workshop manual. Honda recommends to measure the oil level (84 mm) after installation of inner parts, big piston, spring, damping rod etc.
With your method the air chamber might be to small leading to a very progressive suspension afterwards, because inserting the parts into the oil filled fork afterwards lets the oil level rise significantly
Thanks for your comment! If you happen to have gone through some of the other comments on this video, this difference has already been addressed. In the ZX10R factory service manual, the oil level is checked as shown in this video. This rebuild method also aligns with Dave Moss' video tutorial on these as well. I spoke to Showa themselves regarding this and they confirmed the order specified in this video. However; manufacturers such as Honda may recommend a different method & specs; which is fine. Always follow the order specified by your factory service manual. Aside from that detail, the disassembly and reassembly are the same regardless of manufacturer. I hope this helps!
@@TheMotorcycleBoss Many Thanks, Mr.Boss, you are right, it's specified in the Honda Workshop for the CBR1000RR BPForks (only). Anyway, I followed your advices with the plastic bags and the elctrical tape and it worked phantastic! I'm very happy with the results. Keep up the good work....
Excellent video, easy to follow. I was a little intimidated to do this before watching.
Im glad the video was able to help you. As long as you have the tools and your service manual, it's a simple job just time consuming.
Great video. Used it with my manual to replace oil and seals on a 2020 GSX-R750 with the Showa 41mm BPF. Thanks!
Glad it helped! Thanks for taking the time to comment! Much appreciated.
Absolutely flawless video! Very detailed and quality. Thanks for doing it!
Thanks so much for your comment! I really appreciate it! Glad I could help. I hope you subscribed if you haven't already! Ride safe. Cheers!
Nicely done - very thorough, very clear and concise. Well-spoken instruction too. Thanks for providing the links for the tools too. I'll be doing this procedure on a set of Showa forks soon, so now I know what's involved. Keep up the great work!
Thank you! I appreciate you taking the time to comment. I was trying my best to make it as thorough as possible. I'm glad you found it useful. I hope this was enough to earn you as a subscriber. I look forward to hearing from you in the future. Good luck on your project! Ride safe! Cheers!
@@TheMotorcycleBoss I will definitely subscribe. Check out my TH-cam channel when you have a chance. I use a similar approach and try to show how to do MC repairs with regular everyday tools whenever possible. Have a great weekend!
@@tomscyclerecycling8242 will do. Thanks!
Thanks for this. I didn't know about the specialty tool to get the cartridge out. Have it on order and should be doing mine by Sunday.
Awesome. Good luck on your project. Keep in mind, everything i used in this video for the most part is in my description.
Correct me if I'm wrong but the service manual shows to check the Fork Fluid level AFTER the Rod guide case (the threaded part that's done up to 90nm originally) is seated and torqued. IF this is the case it might explain why it felt a little off when you rode it as you set the fluid way too high if it was done without that being installed as shown.
Service manual indicates to measure the oil level as you say. However; I was following Dave Moss' video on this where he does it prior as shown in this video. The reason the forks felt a little off was because they were leaking and I had less oil than I should've before this install and I got used to it. All I needed to do was adjust my compression screw and it went back to normal. Been years riding with them like this and absolutely zero issues.
@@TheMotorcycleBoss That makes sense that the fork level was adjusted to compensate for the removal of said parts. That information would be harder to find than the service manual. I "think" and i could be wrong but the service manual calls for 84mm vs RACETECHs suggested 115mm and this would probably be the reason why even though its not clearly stated.
I wish I saw this years ago. Thanks man
Thank you for this one, just what I was looking for.
By far the easiest to understand and most clear motorcycle component tear down video I’ve seen. Clearly your very knowledgeable about the components and tools your working with. Awesome work mate. One question though, you said if only doing an oil change you could drain the oil (and I assume refill) without taking out the piston rod assembly... How do you measure the oil air gap if you haven’t taken it out?
Thanks a lot. You want to measure the height of the oil first, then drain. When you fill it back up, you just get it to match the same level as before that you measured.
I really enjoyed batman helping 😂
Why my forks are fixed:) you are the man thanks!
Lol. Thanks for the comment. Im glad i can help you.
Good job Boss ! Doing mine tomorrow.
Thanks! Glad to help. It'll be a good 2-4 hour job for the average person so be prepared for that. Music, maybe a friend, and lots of beer (but not too much). Good luck with your project. Lmk how it goes. Thanks for taking the time to tell me what you think.
Awesome video very helpful. Got the forks re installed now it’s twisted. How can I fix that?
You should be able to twist it to the correct position no problem
Excellent video thanks!! Totally THE BEST I've found for these forks, which I have on my Triumph Thruxton 1200 R...now all I need to do is wait for the special tool to arrive in the post :-)
Thanks a lot! I'm glad it was helpful to you. When I needed to do my forks, there was little free info on the topic. So I decided to put the most detailed vid on it I could to help everyone else out. Glad it worked out. Good luck with your project and subscribe if you haven't already. Ride safe!
Great video, thanks for going to the trouble of making and sharing it
Thanks! It was a lot of work but it was worth it. I'm glad it helped you out!
Your a big help! I’ve got the exact same bike and my seals are both leaking. Great work on walking through every detail of the service and demystifying the BPF I subscribed to your channel.
daniel Silvis im really happy this video could help. It was definitely a pain to make which is why there are ads. But i would rather make things as free as possible for you guys. I hope the rest of my videos will help you or your friends out. Im looking forward to getting your input in future vids. Thanks bro
Do you need to take out that sleeve just to do the seals? I just need to change the seals so I’m wondering if I need the special cylinder tool
I have never tried before but I think you can. Although refilling with oil to the proper level i would imagine would be a nightmare.
@@TheMotorcycleBoss only one way to find out lol
@@lucianoromero777 absolutely. I've had a few other people ask the same question before. Please let me know how it goes. I'd love an update.
@@TheMotorcycleBoss haha I’ll try to yank the fork apart with that sleeve still in and see what happens I believe it should come all apart but we’ll see 🤷♂️
Woooow awesome video bud very discriptive! Your a fantastic teacher thanks alot
Thanks! I really appreciate that. I hope it was enough to earn you as a subscriber! Ride safe! Cheers!
One of the best videos made for that topic. Thanks!
I am working on the same forks for a CBR1000RR.
Do I need to take the assembly a part to change the oil and the seals? I can't figure and that special tool. Is there a chance I can use a nut instead? What size is it?
Thanks! Yes. You should take everything apart to change the seals. However, if the seals are fine and you just need to replace the oil, you don't need to remove the cylinder that requires that special tool although it will take forever to drain and fill. You could use a nut of some sort but i don't know what size it is at the moment. You can look up the tool and it should indicate its dimensions.
Good video! will do the same. Very helpfull this video.
And awesom that batman was involved in the forkrepair! :) awesome!
Thanks a lot! I'm glad that this video helped you or was at least entertaining. Just trying to get better with camera angles and editing techniques. I appreciate your comment and I wish you the best! Cheers!
@@TheMotorcycleBoss will definately use your video next week. I'm getting the ractech part in a few days. Seals and oil are already in the cave.
I saw another video , the guy explained the spring HAS a smaller side , that needs to come down.
I'll take note of that if i can spot any difference.
Good luck with the next video's!
Greetz CJ
@@cjsgarage3662 Thanks! And I would really appreciate it if you purchased the RaceTech tool through my Amazon Affiliate link in the description if you haven't purchased it yet. Please keep me informed of the spring if there is anything noteworthy. I appreciate the comment and I wish you the best with your project! Cheers!
@@TheMotorcycleBoss ai, already ordered it. And I didnt entered the cult of Bezos yet ;)
First off the video was awesome. Did you ever make a video for the other fork?
Thanks! No I didn't both forks are exactly the same. I did the first fork off-camera to get my tool list in order and understand the camera angles I had to achieve. Since they are both exactly the same, no need to film the other one anyway. Thanks for your comment! I hope this was enough to earn you as a subscriber. Ride safe! Cheers!
@@TheMotorcycleBoss I thought that the internals were different in each leg? On my 2018 ZX6R the left leg has the two little screws and the right has one large torx looking screw in the center.
@@dinot71 No problem. The forks I am working on in this video are the Showa Big Piston Forks (BPF). The forks you are referring to that your bike has are called the Showa Separate Function Fork or (SFF). That is the teardown video you are looking for.
Nice vid man, very detailed and should help out the people that need it. Great job, love the vids, keep 'em coming!!!
PJ Weidman thanks a lot. Im doing my best. I hope this video and my others will help youband everyone else in some way
Perfect ! nothing more to add.
Thanks mate. Looking to do the seal and oil change on my showa bpf forks soon. Do u have a tool list?
Tim Vella thanks! I hope my video helps. i showed you all of the tools i used in this video at 8:55. Good luck with your project
J'ai pû faire ma fourche de Zx6R 2009, bon boulot.
Merci à toi 🙏🇲🇫
Merci! Aucun problème
The best work! Tank you.
Thanks a lot! It took a lot of work to make this so i really appreciate you letting me know what you thought.
Great video, and thank for putting in all that time too help all of us out there.!
Although I have too correct you.
When you measure the oil level, you do it without the cartridge and the cylinder in the fork.
As I can see from the manual it has too be in there before you set the level
I couldn’t get the oil milliliters too fit with oil level , until I found out about the cartridge..
Quite a important thing!!
Please correct me if I am wrong?!
Best regards
The fork oil level is actually supposed to be measured without the piston and the cylinder. However; if you are only doing a fork oil service and dont have the tool to remove the cylinder, you can measure the level before draining the fork. Then you will know what level to get it back to. But the specification for oil level is never with the dampener assembly inside. Otherwise you run the possibility of overfilling. I hope this helps you. Thanks for the support.
@@TheMotorcycleBoss is this possible to replace the seals without the racetech cylinder tool?
I don't believe so
great video bud you explained everything extremely well i have the gen5 zx10 with the balance free forks hopefully i never have to worry about doing them but i have done a few other forks before and these definitely seem way easier than the old zx10 forks with the plastic tube that you have to compress to get to the lock nut lol
Nick 636n8r thank you very much. I hope to do a vid on the BFFs but idk when ill have to do it. There is a video on youtube that you have to pay for to see these taken apart but i wanted to make this a free vid for you guys but took me and my gf a buttload of time to do. Hence why there are so many ads on this one. I'm very happy i was able to help you and everyone else understand how these work. Thanks for the comment bro. Greatly appreciated.
Great video. learned everything I think I needed. Appreciate you brother.
Glad it was helpful. It was a pain to shoot buy I'm glad it can help so many people. Your comment is appreciated. Ride safe!
Great tutorial well done...just one question, Do you measure oil level before adding the internals or after adding the internals?
Some videos show measuring oil levels with internals installed.
Thanks! I appreciate it. I've had this question a few times before in the comments. Idk why other people believe that you need to check the oil level with the damper assembly inserted but this is false. Both the factory service manual as well as Dave Moss' paid video that covers the rebuild process for these forks, it clearly indicates to not have the internals inserted. Immediately after finishing installing the bushings, oil seal & dust seal; fill with oil. The only way you can rebuild these forks with the internals when you fill with oil is if you already know what the air gap is supposed to be with the internals in. The air gap level you are given is without internals. Just keep in mind that your suspension may feel slightly different than before simply due to fresh oil in the system. So be ready to tweak your rebound and compression. I hope this clears things up and I hope I've earned your sub if I haven't yet. Good luck with your project! I'm here if you have any questions. Ride safe! Cheers!
@@TheMotorcycleBoss definitely subscribed man.
Did you have to back off any of the adjusters before disassembly ?
Yeh Dave moss is a guru of suspension too.
I have read the manual also and that's why I wonder why some measure oil level with internals in ??
They would have less oil dampening they should. Lol
@@marcusbarnes5929 Thanks for subbing! I appreciate it! I don't know why people include the internals. If it clearly shows the steps in the manual alone, then why do people put them in? Makes no sense to me lol. Regarding the adjusters, no. One of the advantages of the BPF fork system is that rebound and compression adjustment height stays the same during the rebuild process. The adjustment is internal rather than external. In short, as long as you don't move the adjuster screws in the fork cap, and when you screw the fork cap back on all the way until it bottoms out, your adjustments will remain exactly the same. There is simply a small plate that presses down on the rods to force the valves in the damper open or closed. So as long as the height adjuster screws are not touched then your adjustments will remain untouched as well. I hope this was a good enough explanation for you. Thanks for your comment!
Ducati workshop manual, states to messaure air gap with damper assembly installed?
@@greggan100 I just checked the 2011 gsxr 1000 service manual and it also states to measure and set oil level with dampener in.
Great video! But a quick question. Did you miss out to fit the following parts between the cylinder and fork cap?
BUSHING-FRONT FORK 44065-0040
RING-O 92055-0215
Hey! Thanks for your comment. I never removed either of those parts from the fork components so they were still there during assembly. It is good practice to replace o-rings when you are in a position to do so but I felt that they weren't needing replacement. Regarding the bushing, you can see that it is still attatched to the cylinder I remove with the racetech tool. I never removed that bushing as it didn't need to be removed to install new fork seals. I hope this clears things up! Thanks for your support and I appreciate you taking time to comment. Ride safe. Cheers!
thanks to you I exchanged for myself
Does a breaker bar in the axle hole damage the axle hole? Do you step it up with a closer fit spacer, then bar through the spacer?im getting ready to attempt my first fork seal fix but this is my holdup. A lot of force there on the loosenup part. Top vids
There should be no issue using a breaker bar against it but wrapping a towel or rag around the breaker bar should work just fine. It'll take a lot more force to severely damage the fork in that manner. I hope your project goes well!
Excellent video, thanks heaps
Not a problem. I hope it helped you out enough to earn you as a subscriber if I haven't already. Thanks for the comment. Ride safe!! Cheers!
Hello very good video just one question what is the size of the hexagonal bronce especial tool you use to take of the silver color guide the exagonal with the tow different size I mean
Thanks! Please give me a moment to measure it. I'm not home at the moment and can't find any info online just yet. I'll get back to you
33mm & 35mm
Thanks for the help. You think that for Suzuki GSXR 750 2013 it will be the same? I hopen then yesterday and find my self with the silver color guide so i had to put all back together because of the special tool. And i measure and it gives me 33 mm also so i will go with this one taken in account that it the same as you just said. Thank very much
Awesome video, very helpful, thank you
Thanks! Took a lot of time to make. I'm glad you found it helpful. I hope it was enough to earn your sub! All I do is post projects and tips about motorcycles to help you save money. Ride safe! Cheers!
You definitely got my sub man, rubber side down brother
thank you for this video very usefull, may i ask if it is possible to change the oil whitout removing the silver portion inside at 13:30?
Thanks! You can but it will take significantly longer to drain and fill.
thank you, will do it then, time its not a problem, i just dont want to buy that tool and use it only once :/
Thanks for nice video. It helps a lot understanding that works.
Thanks! I hope I was able to earn you as a subscriber. If you have any questions, I read all commonts. Ride safe! Cheers!
Well done, Sir! 👏 HUGE thanks!!! Much appreciated.
Thanks for the compliment! I'm glad this video was helpful to you and I hope this was enough to earn you as a subscriber. Please keep in mind that if there are any tools you need in order to complete this job you can find them in the video description as well as a link you can click on if you are so inclined to buy me a coffee. :) best of luck with the project and if you have any questions, please feel free to reach out. Ride safe! Cheers!
Thank You for the awesome tutorial!
Randy Smith no problem. Thanks for the comment. I hope my other videos are helpful as well.
Top job buddy appreciate the effort. Great help.👍
Suspension might have felt a little off because you did not check the oil level (air gap) correctly you're supposed to check the level with the rod guide case and the dampening rod installed into the fork
No. The air gap was checked correctly. The damping rod and rod guide are not supposed to be installed when checking air gap. However, if you know the oil level after they are installed you can check it then. But it will take a very long time to do that because the damping rod and guide have such a small tolerance. My suspension felt off because i had new oil and not the old oil anymore. I just adjusted the rebound and compression and years later, still perfect suspension.
Great tutorial .... Covered everything ,Prob the best I've seen..👊🏻
Thank you very much. It was a lot of work to make the vid but im sure it will help lots of people. Thanks for taking the time to let me know what you think. I hope some of my other vids will be of some use to you as well. Cheers
Great detailed explanations.......next hope to see suspension setup which would be very useful for everyone should it be as detailed as this video..... keep it up bro!
2 Wheels thanks for your comment. I may do one in the future. No time soon unfortunately but the time will come. I appreciate your support
Excellent commentary, thank you!
Thanks! I hope it helps!
Thanks bro this was great 👍
Hey thanks! No problem. I like to make videos to help out as many people as possible. I this helped you. Stick around for my other vids. You might get some useful information from them.
Do not lift the inner tube to high when installing the bushing, the oil hole on the inner leg might reach the seal and ruin it..lift it as little as possible
Good choice in beers!!!
why do you measure the fluid before everything is in there? other videos ive seen, everything is already assembled, shock tube and everything before they measure the correct fluid level. all that's left is to screw on the cap. That might be the cause of your stiff feeling after the test ride. because if you measure the level and then assemble the remaining parts, the oil level will have risen meaning you've put too much in.
I've received multiple comments like this. 100% when you check the fluid level in these forks, you do it without the damper as indicated in the factory service manual. You can fill the oil level with everything installed but you have to know what the oil level is supposed to be with all parts assembled which most service manuals do not include that spec because they aren't supposed to be filled that way. The reason my suspension felt weird was because that bike is my daily driver and any time you get old fluid and swap it out with new fluid, you will feel a difference. So simply my settings were tuned for the old oil. I just had to turn some screws for the new oil.
Batman hahaha great video guys!
Thanks! Glad you liked it. Batman is a nut for sure. I hope my video helped and I hope you subbed in case you haven't yet. Good luck on your projects! Cheers!
I know this is an old video now, but thanks 👍🏻
@@nickrider5220 your thanks is much appreciated. Even tho I haven't posted in years, I still respond to everyone I can. The video will forever be relevant as long as there are Gen4 ZX10's still on the road. Glad to be of service! Ride safe!
A way better method than using tape is cutting a strip of plastic from a plastic milk jug so that it rolls up and makes a cylinder. Position the plastic cylinder on the top of the fork tube and slide the seal on the plastic just like with a seal bullet. Once the seal is on the fork tube with the plastic protecting it on the inside you can slide the seal down past the bushing channel. To make it easier, put some greasy on the inside of the makeshift seal bullet so it slides with ease. I used to use tape as well but after being shown this method I don’t think I’d go back.
Yes. I am aware of that method as well. If you take a look at my latest fork video, I switched to using a simple sandwich bag and it seems to be a bit easier than the milk jug method in my opinion. Plus I always have sandwich bags and don't always have an empty milk jug or water bottle around. And I don't want to keep a scrap like that in my toolbox. I also see the sandwich bag as being much softer on the seal as far as edges are concerned which can further reduce the risk of slicing up the seal during installation and removal. I hope you give that method a try some time and tell me what you think. In any case, thanks for commenting and I really appreciate you taking the time to watch my video. I hope it was helpful. Ride safe! Cheers!
Hey Buddy, Fucking AWESOME video. Very detailed and very smart. I definitely will take the advice given in this video when I replace my seals.
Jason Bradley Elmore haha! Thanks bro. I really appreciate your support. Im glad you liked the video and i hope it can help you when you do your forks. Please take a look at the rest of my videos and see if any of those can help you further. Thanks a lot!
pls make bpf vdo on Honda cbr 1000rr fireblade need to know exactly oil capacity of this bike. Thanks in advance!👍
Your best bet would be to get your factory service manual. Most likely wont be getting those forks any time soon
@@TheMotorcycleBoss in India it's very hard to get the factory service manuals. and so happy for your instant reply.... Thanks. this vdo for the zx 10 r was so good and it's detailed too
@@abhishekghorpade129 i understand. Thats a shame. Have you considered downloading a pdf version of your service manual? Is that possible?
Nice video bro! Very detailed
Thanks! I try my best!
Very helpful video, great explanation, new subscriber!!
Thanks a lot! Glad to have you.
Great job!! Really good content!!
Thank you very much! I did what I could to be as detailed as possible. I'm glad you found it valuable and I hope this was enough to earn you as a subscriber. Ride safe! Cheers!
i have problem after servicing this kind of fork.. there is a click sound when the tyre run through a pot hole... i have the video of it but don't no how to post it to u..all parts were in as per your video.. pls advice... thanx..
Send the video to themotorcycleboss@gmail.com
Perfect work !
Great Video
Can you Send me the size im mm of the Special Tool from k tech ? To Open the hex inside of the fork at 13:49 ?
Which width the Hex from the Tool from k tech is and the size of the hole and the width of the slot. That would be Great. I would like to Build this Tool myself on the milling and turning maschine 😄
Domani inzio i lavori sulla mia ducati panigale 😊😊😊
Grazie per queste informazioni gratuite!
Un abbraccio dall italia 😊
Scusa. sono un idiota e anche se per un secondo hai parlato spagnolo. nessun problema. Spero che troverai utili le informazioni del mio canale. Speriamo di avere notizie su di noi nel futuro. ¡viaja seguro! 😂
@@TheMotorcycleBoss Italia e Spagna siamo cugini, è molto simile!
Tanti auguri per natale!!!🎅
Если не лень будет переводить мой текст, все таки уровень неправильно измерен. Инструкция устроена таким образом,что по ней нужно идти шаг за шагом.и хоть это не написано конкретно, но момент проверки уровня указан уже после того, как предлагается собрать все до момента, когда останется закрутить верхнюю крышку с регулировками жёсткости. И даже на иллюстрации видно, что при проверке уровня, трубку шприца опускают именно в элемент, который затягивается с усилием 90 нм. Я тоже недавно менял масло и сделал как на видео. А теперь при просмотре видео мне стало интересно и я почитал инструкцию более внимательно. И да, в ней проверка уровня масла выполняется после сборки. Если выполнять сборку шаг за шагом. Хоть прямым текстом этого и не написано. Мне стоит снять амортизатор и убрать лишнее масло
Google Translate: Спасибо за ваш комментарий. У разных производителей могут быть разные уровни масла и процедуры, которым необходимо следовать в отношении одного и того же продукта.
Если вы будете следовать тому, что написано в заводском руководстве по обслуживанию Kawasaki Ninja ZX10R 2011 года, а также пошаговым инструкциям Дэйва Мосса по этим амортизаторам,
Вы заметите, что в обоих случаях они оба ясно показывают, что уровень масла необходимо проверить, как показано в этом видео. Ваша обеспокоенность по этому поводу разделена с другими, поскольку я слышал, что другие обращаются по той же причине.
Из-за этого я трижды проверил правильную процедуру и мою литературу на своем велосипеде, и это должно быть сделано таким образом. Надеюсь, это прояснит ситуацию. Катайтесь безопасно! Ваше здоровье!
@@TheMotorcycleBoss спасибо. Тоже желаю приятной и безопасной езды. На самом деле, я не учел одной вещи, этот амортизатор стоит на другом мотоцикле. А я посчитал, что если амортизаторы одинаковые, то и процедуры одинаковые. Мой стоит на zx6r. Конечно, у них должны быть разные настройки и количество масла. Моя ошибка. Извиняюсь. Теперь все встало на свои места. Да кстати, видео отличное. Вы очень детально показали как это делается. 😉
@@Timingchain Переводчик Google: Без проблем! Я рад, что вы высказали свое мнение. К счастью, сейчас все прояснилось. Я ценю, что ты мой друг в мотоциклетном сообществе, и я надеюсь, что смог заслужить тебя как подписчика. Не стесняйтесь обращаться к нам, если у вас возникнут какие-либо вопросы, и я сделаю все возможное, чтобы ответить вам как можно быстрее. Оставайтесь в безопасности!
Great job thanks
Complimenti hai fatto un ottimo video..
google translate: grazie mille! è stato un sacco di lavoro ma spero di esserti stato d'aiuto. per favore iscriviti e viaggia sicuro!
Pure gold! :)
svengalino lol thanks bro. I hope it helped you
Great video 👍🏼
Great job!
Wojciech Szkutnik thanks! I hope i was able to help you out in some way. I appreciate your input.
The secondary bushing you drove in, Is there any possibility that it would slide right in, or did i not do something right. my seal seated properly so i would assume the bushing had to have been far enough down... am I correct?
I've never replaced fork seals where the bushing slid in without some required force or at least some heat applied to the tube. I would be concerned honestly. Ensure the item number of your part is the proper manufacturer item number.
@@TheMotorcycleBoss they are the original bushings. First seal change they have had. It didn't slide in by itself, but I didn't have to drive it with repeated strikes. I will pull the new seal and double check it.
@@myidjosiah20 as long as it didnt just drop in without force you should be fine. The bushing should be flush with the inner shoulder it rests against. And shouldnt be proud towards the seal at all. As long as the circlip fits in the groove as well.
Clip fits fine, but I'm gonna pull it apart just to check. My first set of forks of this newer style, I have mostly done slightly older models. Great video and thanks for the speedy responce.
@@myidjosiah20 no problem. Glad my video could help. Good luck with your project. Keep in mind that if the oil in your forks are old, you may need to readjust your rebound and compression adjustments after the rebuild because the viscosity characteristics may be slightly different. I noticed that after rebuilding mine. Simple adjustment then good as new. Cheers
Hi mate. What diameter PVC tube did you use?
Tim Vella good question. Honestly, idk. All i did was measure the diameter of the chrome tube then go to home depot and try to find a close match. Don't remember the specific diameter tho.
The Motorcycle Boss thanks mate. I had my forks serviced and resprung 10months ago and they started leaking . OEM lasted 7 years and 19,000kms.
I saw you didn't use a vice. I don't have one either. So was thinking of undoing the rod guide case with the fork in the bike to make it easier. Thoughts?
Tim Vella isnt a bad idea. Except that you have to be sure you have the clearance to do it above the forks. And you would have to do both at the same time in order for you to compress the forks enough to get to the cylinder. Really up to you. I would only crack it loose then remove it completely with the fork out of the bike. As long as you have a decent sized rod to go through the lower fork axle clamp, and a breaker bar, removing the cylinder out of the bike should be a piece of cake. Lmk how it goes tho
also just skip to 18:30 thats the most important part of the video
hello, can you give me the size of the hexagonal nut in the racetech tool?
I don't have it off-hand. (Not home right now) However; if you look up the racetech tool (link to it is in the description) you may find the dimensions of the tool. I hope this helps. Good luck with your project.
Great info man I got a 2005 zx10r I wanna do the forks this video helped to much u got my sub YAY YAY 🚀🚀🔥🔥🏍🏍🏍
Thanks! I have no idea if that year has the same forks but I'm glad to help and I appreciate your sub! Keep in mind that there are links to all my tools in the description if you want to pick anything up. Thanks for the comment and good luck with your project.