2006/7 Yamaha R6 fork oil and seal change
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.ย. 2024
- www.DaveMossTuning.com
This is a very comprehensive step by step video on the entire procedure for the oil and seal change and tools needed, hence the video length. I'd rather have it be longer as that allows the watcher to pause the video along the way at important stages to then replicate the required task.
As a mechanic this is probably the best content you can get. This man needs to be protected at all costs. 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Thank you for your kind words. I sincerely appreciate the support!
I have done my forks 4 times now and I break this video out every time. By the time I'm ready to do them again, I've already forgotten a point or two. Thus, I can only assume Dave has done this in the hundreds of times.
Please add a '0' to that :) Thanks for leveraging the content and doing the work yourself!
How much would this job cost? I don't have the time, area and tools.. or less I would do this myself.
I had just bought my first bike with 19k on it.
Great video, again! I did this on my FZ-09 about 8 months ago.. this video would have been so helpful back then. I managed to work it out but still learnt a lot from this video! Thanks Dave for "giving back" to motorcycles, a lot of people don't share their knowledge. Hope to get to meet you at a track sometime! Cheers!
I don't even need to do this or even have an R6 (yet) but that was so interesting and informative to watch.
Me to man, this is one of the most interresting channels on youtube for my preferences :D
you must have a lot of time on your hands
Hank Alan if you are interrested in somthing you will make time ;-)
In the meantime some guy i know showed me how to do it with the forks of my cbr 600 rr track bike and really, its not that hard. It seems intimidating when you watch youtube but it all falls together after you’ve done it yourself.
same here .. no bike yet .. closing in on 42 .. thinking of getting me the license and a bike .. i might be to old to start tho ..
@@Ladosligese damn I just realised I posted that comment four years ago.. since then I've had an R6, s1000rr, and now a new s1000rr 😄 you are never too old.. please start riding, you'll discover a new way of life!
So much appreciation for this video Dave, I’ve just completed my first ever seal change on y 2013 R6, probably saved me £200 £300, and wasn’t as bad as I was expecting! Also used your installation video to re install the forks and used the installation video to put the front wheel on! Most helpful person on TH-cam for this sort of stuff, PERIOD! Many thanks 🙏
Glad it helped and thanks for using the videos to help you do the job yourself!
Never realized how involved it was. With the right tools it seems pretty straightforward. Thanks for the informative video.
It is very straight forward especially if you use the pause button at the right time :)
I can not thank you enough for such a great "how-to".
you either get a video that's too short and skips alot of important items or you get a REALLT Long video that spends the first 35 minutes explaining what a washer is then another 35 minutes explaining where the word "washer" came from...
so my point is, your video was perfect. no extra BS, explained every step and displayed every step of the process. you made my fork job seem as easy as you were doing it
thank you again.
Thanks Paul. I try to balance thoroughness with being concise. Still working on it :) Glad the video made the task easy to do.
Most comprehensive video ive seen on fork seal/oil change. Quality! thank you so much for sharing.
Sorry mr moss these fork seals you showed are NOT for the 06/07 Yamaha r6. The OEM part number is 5vy-23145-00 the , fork seal you show here has the spring on top of the seal with writing, the seal I posted has the spring on bottom and there is no offset for this seal.
This seal is a 41x53x11..the type of seal you showed in this video is a 9.5/10 which explains that offset..
Which the 2007 R1s are
Thank you for your post and information for others to leverage.
Great video! If you don't have a rebound rod holder I'm pretty sure you can also set the compression to maximum to (mostly) prevent the rod from falling while you reassemble it.
Give this man an award! 🏆
Tip ..make sure your bushings are not wore or you will be killing your time and hard work!!and the spring is narrow on one end which fits the preload spacer
holly crap!! by far far the best tutorial i've ever seen!! super clear explanations,very articulate ,well...MR MOSS...i think we can say you're the very best in that field,the creme of the creme.
Thanks for the kind words. It is reassuring to know the format, language and content as a whole take away the stress of doing the fork oil seal and change for those that want to give it a go!
Another successful job thanks to Dave Moss. All you have to do is follow the directions. Thanks, Dave.
The only thing missing was a nurse dabbing your brow.. and the sound of a heart beat monitor... awesome vid Dave...
Thanks! It is a process for sure and that trailer was toasty at the time of filming.
I did my forks yesterday with this video you have no idea how much your tutorial helped. YOU ARE THE MAN !!!
Thanks for rolling your sleeves up and getting to work!
I am about to buy r6 07 model, and this video is very much helpfull! Thanks Dave 👌🏻
not trying to nit pick but you used the wrench backward when you tightened the compression valve assembly. this is just for anyone reading this to help them learn to compliment this excellent instructional video. the wrench is designed to be used the other direction. if used on something that requires higher torque you can slip the wrench and round off the nut/bolt. the sliding part always toward the direction of force. this puts the edge of the bolt head that receives the torque at the rear of the tool's jaw which is stronger and doesn't flex. if used how dave used it the jaw will flex and allow excessive amount of slop on the bolt head and round it off when it receives high torque.
Dave Williams, editor, replying here. Excellent tip! Thank you for contributing. That is a pristine example of constructive criticism. Much appreciated.
Just use vise grips. Use either way if it's clamped hard enough to leave teeth marks
That’s who you look like!!!! This whole time I was like he looks familiar! You look like Michael Rooker!!! And thank you for setting up my suspension, it was great to meet you
wanted to say thank you for the video dave. changed my seals in no time and saved me a chunk of change I didn't have. only thing I did different was used the old seals to press in the new ones. no more leaks, thanks again!
Excellent and great improvisation with the old seals :)
Dave, you are a God, once I have my BMW 850GS I will be getting a remote session with you to set her up. I love your content and style I think you are amazing and charging just $40 for 1 day is a steal !!!!!
Thanks. I look forward to helping you.
Replaced the oil and seals this week using this video! Thanks Dave!
Thank for all this amazing content you have given us. You may be one of the most helpful people on TH-cam.
I appreciate that!
@@catalystreactionsbw what is the difference in suspension from R6 06-07 to 08- I have a 06, I need to replace the tubes because one is damaged, I found several suspensions 08-, is there any special suspension that is compatible with my bike?
@@alemaozinho45 They are the same other than 08 and beyond being 10mm longer
Excellent instructional video. Competent and comprehensive explanations on a step by step basis without any oops. If I were an apprentice I would love to be working in your shop. Thank you for taking the time to do this presentation. I will look for others by when the time comes.
Thank you for the detailed video! I was going to pay a shop to do it but after watch the video I think I can do it myself! Thank you very much!
this video helped a lot just replaced both fork seals yesterday
thank you very much for getting fresh oil and seals in your bike. You should notice the difference in fork action and bump compliance.
I just went and got my suspension tune by Dave today and just happened upon this video while looking for how to replace my fork cap.
Dave Moss is the man!
Dear Dave.
My Grandfather had a piece of rubber- I think it was old tire or tube on the vice faces, for extra grip / slip and anti-marring
Some old wetsuit material would be a good choice!
Couple rectangular pieces just kept near the vice
Just a thought
I always appreciate good suggestions. Thank you.
incredible video. thank you for the free lesson!
Awesome step-by-step walk through. Dave you're the best. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and for doing it with every little detail.
Thank you so much Dave for sharing your knowledge with all of us! Your work and videos are second to none!
great video and well done describing what is being done! wish i could tackle something like this myself. bought a 06 r6 couple weeks ago and just noticed decent leak on my left fork. guess i'm gonna have someone do both while it's in the shop. figured why just do one.
Everything explained perfectly and for my exact bike. Let me know I definitely need to take mine to a shop cuz this is out of my league.
Excellent video, you make that look so easy!
The so called $30 spring compression tool are not bad at all. You can push it down by hand or use a strap.
Great video as always! The rebound adjusters on my Suzuki gsx1400 also wasn't set equally on both forks, I will set it like you demonstrate here in the video, cause now I got different range of clicks in both forks, not good... And you can feel it when you ride the bike, totally unbalanced front...
Excellent work on checking and then understanding the benefits of correctly set damping!
@@catalystreactionsbw I totally agree, and the guys who did the revision on my forks probably didn't pay too much attention on these details, next time I'll do it myself, and thanks to all of your videos on youtube, I have a better understanding of suspension basics, troubleshooting, etc... Thank you Dave & keep up the good work!
Dave, what a great public service!!! But an intimidating job for an intermediate home pro... Think I`ll pay for this one.
great info thank you, do you have to do the same thing with the rebound clicks when putting back together on a hayabusa too and is there a way to get it wrong so you don't have the same factory clicks you started with
You turn the rebound adjuster from all the way left to the correct number of clicks right. Install the cap until it bottoms out and bring the jam nut up to the cap and make it snug. Check your full range. if correct set at 6 clicks from maximum and tighten. Check range again.
@@catalystreactionsbw brilliant thank you , so once fluid is in turn the rebound clockwise to it's maximum stock number and snug cap down and bring lock nut to cap and tighten, then bring it back to where u have it when I ride around 5-6 , do the cap up and check full range afterwards . I'm a bit nervous doing it because I'm worried they won't match up and give me equal rebound both sides but if they are different I'm sure there's a way to fix it , in my manual it says when installing cap to back off rebound to softest position and make sure there's 11mm of thread showing on rod above lock nut both forks and then install, your way makes sense tho because if I'm fully clockwise on rebound both needles will get snugged into top of rebound rod at the same height and not much can go wrong then I guess 😁👍🏼
Love the technical explanation of the forks! Thanks for sharing!
so which plonker pressed the dislike button by mistake! !??
+therealmrcheese I was thinking the exact same thing!!! This is one of the most clear and concise how to videos I have ever seen on fork seals.
Excellent video!
+lm0315 I know and some other plinker has pressed the wrong button now to! wasn't you was it!! lol
+therealmrcheese grrrr spell check is the worst invention ever!!! PLONKER!
+therealmrcheese grrrr spell check is the worst invention ever!!! PLONKER!
therealmrcheese Honda rider? maybe? - my only guess? Lol
Best how-to videos i've seen in ages. Thanks!!
My go-to when doing fork seals!
Well done! Great insight into if I want to tackle this job or not. I assume the process is similar for the R1 (2007).
Yes, correct.
Well presented and thorough. Bravo. Enjoyed watching.
Mr Dave - thanks this move I made my bike muuuuuuuch better. Thanks a lot
very good your work i am here from Brazil, few mechanics have this knowledge, my congratulations
the best 30 mins of my life
Question.... I took my forks off and took them to my local dealer to have them replace the fluid and seals. Before I took it I made sure they were both at 26 clicks and had a full range of 50!! When i got them back i brought my flathead and counted the clicks. It has a TOTAL of 40 clicks now. What problems can or will that cause and what would you suggest I do? I dont have the special tool or a bench vise to do it myself !! Your input would be GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!
Thanks in advance....
Non realistically. Damping works at 15 clicks in from all the way out, so techincally if you got them at 35 clicks range, they would work right away with rebound.
Dave Moss Tuning
Good to know since I wasn't sure...
Thought the guy that did it might have messed up during the process.
Thanks for the reply!
Very informative video. Thanks Dave!
Is the oil level of 115 mm standard measurement for these upside down forks? Showa and such?
That’s crazy I’m going to have to take my girls off and top off the oil. The k-tech manual I downloaded said it was a service manual for a 2007 r6 said there needed to be a 145mm air gap I used 10w fork oil. It does look like my girls sag a little lower but that could just be me thinking that now that I realized it’s only supposed to be 120mm air gap at most. I looked at another manual says it’s supposed to be 108mm air gap
very comprehensive video
too bad that i cant service my own bike due to i dont have a garage. i doubt the motorshop will even do that good job as you do, they probably open the top, dump the old oil without taking off the compression ring. let alone pouring out the metal flick
Dave you are the best. Great video. Thank you so much sir. Forks, here I come.
Thanks for the very simple, easy to follow video!
15:14 Would the seal get damaged if you spray WD-40 or PB Blaster (some type of cleaner) in that groove? How often should these fork seals and oil be changed? I have an 08 R6 and was just curious. I don't do any wheelies on it either so the life of the forks should be longer right? I really enjoy this video, lot of information. I had no idea how to do this job and no idea it was this complicating. that's probably why it rarely gets changed on used bikes.
Muchas gracias por el video , fue de suma utilidad, realize un exelente trabajo gracias a la instrucción detallada , abrazo grande y mis mejores deseos para este año , saludos desde Bell ville Córdoba Argentina..
Wondering if the replacing the top cap method is the same for older models ? ? Best clip on TH-cam by far ,Dave you are a great teacher 👍
The process is the same for every OEM cap as long as you know how many turns or clicks you should have stock.
@@catalystreactionsbw thanks a million , bought a R6 and the seals need doing , going to do them my self 👍
I take it skipping the polishing with the 400 grit cloth can cause an imperfection in the stanchion to damage a new fork seal? I recently changed a fork seal and there’s already slight amounts of oil showing up on the stanchion. I did not polish the stanchion before reassembly.
Using the 400 grit (on chrome only) can catch an imperfection. Not using may allow a burr or insect exoskeleton to catch the fork seal and create a very minor tear. That being said, if the seal has a small amount of debris between it and the fork seal, it will leave enough of an air gap to create an oil ring. A seal saver will clean that out and if the oil sheen persists, then look at the chrome tube very closely.
as always your videos are top notch, you have helped me do so much to my CBR, Thank you
Thank you very much for sharing your kind words, and most importantly for wanting to learn
Hello.
Damper adjusting rod. When you install into the rod, it goes down smoothly to the bottom. When the rod at the bottom, should it bounce when i push it down? In mine case it goes to the bottom, and it doesnt go down anymore. Trying to find out why rebound not working.
A fork that will not return suggests that the rebound adjuster is closed or the needle is stuck inside the rebound rod.
Great video Dave. Very informative. I noticed you polished the chrome tube with some 400 grit sand paper/cloth. Is this just regular 400 grit abrasive paper or some special item needed. Any risk for the Chrome ?
With chrome there is no risk and I have been polishing chrome tubes this way since the mid 90's. We have always use 400 grit emery cloth that comes in a 1" roll as a strip so we only use what is needed. If you wanted a very fine finish you can use 600 grit. Note that I don't put a huge amount of energy into the polishing task nor spend a long time doing it. All other fork surface coatings cannot have any form of abrasive cloth on them.
Thanks for your response Dave, really appreciate it. Love your videos and hope I can visit some day. Greetings from France. Mark
I noticed you didn’t remove the bushing and rebound rod from inside off the inner fork tube, I guess it can’t be stripped? No need to use a degreaser or brake kleen to fully flush out old oil / contaminates, just drain and fit back together?
If the fork seal comes off with the outer tube the bushings are captive. If worn you buy a new outer tube. In this case being able to remove the compression piston assembly almost all the metal debris is removes.
Hi Dave, Great video/tutorial, Sir! It made life easy following along step by step. Question - On these forks, based on the 24 clicks out / 7 turns in, what base setting would you recommend for the hi/low speed compression? Thanks!!
High at 1.5 turns out, low between 6-10 clicks out.
Brilliant video production, Dave. Thank you.
Hey Dave. I changed the fork seals a couple summers ago. When pulling the rebound rods up and down there was a bit of resistance offered by left one when pulling up, but not the right one (this is with fluid completely drained). I'm guessing this is the cartridge? If so, do I need to replace the entire cartridge or is there a more cost friendly solution?
Hello Dave Moss Tuning.
Very nice video.
I learn a lot and more easily thanks to you.
I did like on your video but I had Olhins oil (D43 19 Cst à 40°C ). With Olhins 1000g springs I come up against the big brakes with closed hydraulics -9 (air height 110 mm).
I weigh 100 kilograms and have a 2006 R6. I made an air height of 115 mm.
Will this solve my problem? or should I add thicker oil?
I only ride on circuits
Thanks again for what you do.
Really enjoyed the video, have been considering a fork change to R6 forks of that vintage. Do you think the R6 forks are a better fork for adjustability, than say a GSX-r showa, and or KYB set ? It would be swapped onto a SV650 ...Thanks much. yl
Dave, I really appreciate your video! Thank you!
I would like to ask where did you get the attachments for your work table like the drain pan and for the support that swivel under your bench?
Thanks for the kind words! All of that was hand made by Dave Hodges
Good video Dave!
Love the video Dave, was great to actually get stuck into doing the forks and learning along the way!
Quick question, do both forks on a R6 06’ have a damper rod?
Thank you for taking the time to comment! Yes - both do. The big giveaway is preload on one cap and damping for COM and TEN in the other side.
Hey Dave I'll be doing this on my 08 here pretty soon! Are there any differences in the forks from the 06/07 to the 08+ any additional steps or tips?
Auto Land Inc. Appreciate this was 2 years ago but did you complete this job on your 08 R6 and did you find the procedure to be the same? Minor changes to the front forks are listed among the differences between the 06/07 and 08 bike so it would be good to know if the procedure is the same as this video?
I just did 2007 r6 it’s the same
Hi, somebody could tell me what is the size of the orignial yamaha r6 2008 fork seals ? It is 41x53x11 mm or 41x53x8/9,5 mm ?
Thank you for an excellent video!
you are the man, Dave.
Hey Dave where can I get the Damper rod holding tool you have?> is that a custom piece?
Motion Pro: www.google.com/search?q=motion+pro+damping+rod+tool&rlz=1C5CHFA_enUS922US922&oq=motion+pro+damping+rod+tool&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOTIICAEQABgWGB4yDQgCEAAYhgMYgAQYigUyDQgDEAAYhgMYgAQYigUyDQgEEAAYhgMYgAQYigUyDQgFEAAYhgMYgAQYigUyCggGEAAYgAQYogQyCggHEAAYgAQYogQyCggIEAAYgAQYogTSAQg1MTY3ajBqNKgCALACAA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
Hey Dave, thanks for the super helpful video! Quick question. At 16:15, does the oil added to the compression assembly add to the total oil capacity of the tube? Or is it separate from the main tube. What happens if you don't add oil before installing the compression piston? Thanks :)
The oil in the compression holder is taken from the overall volume. It is separate from the main area as there is a small hole allowing oil in and out from the cartridge. If you do not take this step it takes a lot longer to bleed the fork of air.
@@catalystreactionsbw Thanks for the quick reply! I replaced my fork seals on my 2012 R6 and you helped tremendously! Glad to know that I didn't miss a step and have to take it apart again. Cheers!
@@mrketchup_57 My pleasure!
This is super complicated for a regular maintenance item. I wish for a drain plug, fill port and sight glass.
Thanks for sharing that much of great and professional work in your videos.✌️
Glad you like them!
Is it feasible to replace the fork bracket without buying an entirely new/used assembly with the silver sleeve or does it just make more sense to buy a new one entirely if your lower mounting bracket has some damaged pieces you want to swap with a new one?
You can replace the fork bracket with a used one that is in good condition. It has to be done by someone experienced with the right tools.
what is the difference in suspension from R6 06-07 to 08-
Dave,
Thanks for the video ... Ive disassembled one fork and had the washer come out after I removed the spring. In the video you mentioned it, but yours never came out. I assume in re-assembly I put it in before the loading the spring. Anything else I should watch for ?
Christian
Hi Christian. Put the washer in before the you pour in oil.
Fantastic explanation 👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽 thank you for uploading.
I enjoy your informative videos, but my issue with this one, you talked about all the metal particles, and didn't totally clean the fork components with solvent etc.....
Just dumping the oil out, doesn't get rid of all the debris. Perhaps I am too particular, but it seems leaving even the tiniest amount of old contaminated oil will ruin the good oil in short order. Not to mention putting the extra oil pulled to set the level back in a fresh bottle!!!! That contamination goes onto the next set of forks......
My OCD is on overload after watching this video.
Your approach is excellent and you would strip the fork down every time and clean every component. You are in a very small minority like myself that go to that level of cleaning.
Super Detailed!
Wow.. Such a professional!
why manufactures dont use rubber gaiters instead of those small dust shields.. it adds weight or what?
It was designed for telescopic forks and saw decades of use. With upside down forks, the amount of space is too small
I can imagine the mechs at local motorcycle shops only knowing half of these procedures or being lazy and doing a shit job on my forks. I'll definitely will be doing this myself.
On a fork that has enough metal in it to clump, I would assume it would need to be flushed out with some sort of solvent, wouldn't it?
yes, most people use kerosene so you do not hurt the rubber o-rings
Amazing... Great job!!
Hi Dave, i rebuild my 09 forks because of one leaking. When re assembly, my clicks on rebound is now at maxium 32 clicks, the book says 26 click. The other fork is also at 26 obvisuly, what have i done wrong on the first fork?
When you remount the cap that holds the rebound screw, give it 6 extra clicks before mounting. Then the setting screw is lowered and that is your new zero point.
Very informative. Thanks, Dave!
Great videos and I've got to say I've learnt so much from your videos on fork servicing , I'd like to ask you a question , have you any videos on full fork disassembly ,re damping rod bolt and cartridge out too . This is a job that a lot of people have different options on how to tackle ,some says impact driver or you get special holding tools .I'd really like to hear your opinion on this subject . thanks for a fantastic video yet again .
Yes, we have full videos on the DMT website for a large array of forks. With damping rods, step on is to try getting the bolt out by hand, then an impact driver. If it is still captive in the damping rod, the holding tool is the third option. You can of course go straight to holding tool and loosen the bolt by hand.
@@catalystreactionsbw fantastic , I'll have a look on DMT thanks very much 👍.
Thanks Dave - my son now has an R6 and we have to do this job so this video is perfect for us. One thing we did notice with our bike was there is very little difference between rebound full out and fully in. Fully out the forks do not "roll over the top" when compressed and released. Action is fairly quick though. Any thoughts ?
+Paul Byrne might be really old oil and a lot of stiction. Pull the forks up and see if the 'stick'. That will confirm striction.
Dave Moss Tuning Thanks Dave - some stiction is evident. Will do full service as described. Thanks for posting this video.
This is probably the hardest & time-consuming maintenance on a sportbike
Another great video! Question, is it possible to remove the spring and top cap as one unit and not compress the spring or remove the cap?
Not with these forks. If there is a hidden allen bolt in the axle casting housing, yes you can do that. It is VERY MESSY indeed and a huge clean up operation.
hey guys this video seem great will it be enough to tackle cbr929 seals how much difference in the process
HI DAVE.I WANT TO ASK YOU SOMETHING.A PROGRESSIVE SPRING IN A NORMAL SIMPLE FORK MUST PUT WITH THE THICKEST PART AT TOP OR DOWN?I AM ASKING THIS BECOUSE IN MY LAST CHANGE OF OIL I PUT THE THICKEST PART OF THE SPRING DOWN AND THE FORK IS MORE SMOOTHIEST THAN I HAD IT BEFORE PUTTING THE THICKEST PART AT TOP AS MANY PEOPLE TOLD ME.THANKS IF YOU ANSEWR ME CHEERS FROM GREECE.
The spring has to fit the fork correctly. If in your case both ends are the same diameter and you preferred it one direction from the ride quality it gave you, that is fine.
@@catalystreactionsbw THANKS A LOT DAVE!
My 09 R6 right fork cracks/clicks in the upper half of the fork, im about to open it because of that. Any ideas what causes this issue? Great video!
Bushings, broken spacer, off center spring touching the fork tube. All reasonable possibilities.
@@catalystreactionsbw Thank you for your reply!
please need help I am from India I own a 2003 yamaha R1 great engine. but no one can adjust the suspension not at all.
please help upload a video if you can or share link.
We have no video on an R1 that is 2003. I can help you via remote tuning so please send the questions and answers to dave@davemosstuning.com. 1. How many kms on the odometer 2. Your weight without gear 3. Changes from stock for weight saving and gearing 4. OEM suspension or modified 5. Brand, model and sizes of tires 6. Last fork oil service 7. Last shock oil service 8. Type of use: commute, weekends, aggressive street, some track