I have done my forks 4 times now and I break this video out every time. By the time I'm ready to do them again, I've already forgotten a point or two. Thus, I can only assume Dave has done this in the hundreds of times.
Great video, again! I did this on my FZ-09 about 8 months ago.. this video would have been so helpful back then. I managed to work it out but still learnt a lot from this video! Thanks Dave for "giving back" to motorcycles, a lot of people don't share their knowledge. Hope to get to meet you at a track sometime! Cheers!
I can not thank you enough for such a great "how-to". you either get a video that's too short and skips alot of important items or you get a REALLT Long video that spends the first 35 minutes explaining what a washer is then another 35 minutes explaining where the word "washer" came from... so my point is, your video was perfect. no extra BS, explained every step and displayed every step of the process. you made my fork job seem as easy as you were doing it thank you again.
So much appreciation for this video Dave, I’ve just completed my first ever seal change on y 2013 R6, probably saved me £200 £300, and wasn’t as bad as I was expecting! Also used your installation video to re install the forks and used the installation video to put the front wheel on! Most helpful person on TH-cam for this sort of stuff, PERIOD! Many thanks 🙏
holly crap!! by far far the best tutorial i've ever seen!! super clear explanations,very articulate ,well...MR MOSS...i think we can say you're the very best in that field,the creme of the creme.
Thanks for the kind words. It is reassuring to know the format, language and content as a whole take away the stress of doing the fork oil seal and change for those that want to give it a go!
Hank Alan if you are interrested in somthing you will make time ;-) In the meantime some guy i know showed me how to do it with the forks of my cbr 600 rr track bike and really, its not that hard. It seems intimidating when you watch youtube but it all falls together after you’ve done it yourself.
@@Ladosligese damn I just realised I posted that comment four years ago.. since then I've had an R6, s1000rr, and now a new s1000rr 😄 you are never too old.. please start riding, you'll discover a new way of life!
That’s who you look like!!!! This whole time I was like he looks familiar! You look like Michael Rooker!!! And thank you for setting up my suspension, it was great to meet you
Great video! If you don't have a rebound rod holder I'm pretty sure you can also set the compression to maximum to (mostly) prevent the rod from falling while you reassemble it.
wanted to say thank you for the video dave. changed my seals in no time and saved me a chunk of change I didn't have. only thing I did different was used the old seals to press in the new ones. no more leaks, thanks again!
Dave, you are a God, once I have my BMW 850GS I will be getting a remote session with you to set her up. I love your content and style I think you are amazing and charging just $40 for 1 day is a steal !!!!!
not trying to nit pick but you used the wrench backward when you tightened the compression valve assembly. this is just for anyone reading this to help them learn to compliment this excellent instructional video. the wrench is designed to be used the other direction. if used on something that requires higher torque you can slip the wrench and round off the nut/bolt. the sliding part always toward the direction of force. this puts the edge of the bolt head that receives the torque at the rear of the tool's jaw which is stronger and doesn't flex. if used how dave used it the jaw will flex and allow excessive amount of slop on the bolt head and round it off when it receives high torque.
Dave Williams, editor, replying here. Excellent tip! Thank you for contributing. That is a pristine example of constructive criticism. Much appreciated.
Excellent instructional video. Competent and comprehensive explanations on a step by step basis without any oops. If I were an apprentice I would love to be working in your shop. Thank you for taking the time to do this presentation. I will look for others by when the time comes.
@@catalystreactionsbw what is the difference in suspension from R6 06-07 to 08- I have a 06, I need to replace the tubes because one is damaged, I found several suspensions 08-, is there any special suspension that is compatible with my bike?
Tip ..make sure your bushings are not wore or you will be killing your time and hard work!!and the spring is narrow on one end which fits the preload spacer
great video and well done describing what is being done! wish i could tackle something like this myself. bought a 06 r6 couple weeks ago and just noticed decent leak on my left fork. guess i'm gonna have someone do both while it's in the shop. figured why just do one.
+therealmrcheese I was thinking the exact same thing!!! This is one of the most clear and concise how to videos I have ever seen on fork seals. Excellent video!
Dear Dave. My Grandfather had a piece of rubber- I think it was old tire or tube on the vice faces, for extra grip / slip and anti-marring Some old wetsuit material would be a good choice! Couple rectangular pieces just kept near the vice Just a thought
Great video as always! The rebound adjusters on my Suzuki gsx1400 also wasn't set equally on both forks, I will set it like you demonstrate here in the video, cause now I got different range of clicks in both forks, not good... And you can feel it when you ride the bike, totally unbalanced front...
@@catalystreactionsbw I totally agree, and the guys who did the revision on my forks probably didn't pay too much attention on these details, next time I'll do it myself, and thanks to all of your videos on youtube, I have a better understanding of suspension basics, troubleshooting, etc... Thank you Dave & keep up the good work!
Sorry mr moss these fork seals you showed are NOT for the 06/07 Yamaha r6. The OEM part number is 5vy-23145-00 the , fork seal you show here has the spring on top of the seal with writing, the seal I posted has the spring on bottom and there is no offset for this seal. This seal is a 41x53x11..the type of seal you showed in this video is a 9.5/10 which explains that offset.. Which the 2007 R1s are
Muchas gracias por el video , fue de suma utilidad, realize un exelente trabajo gracias a la instrucción detallada , abrazo grande y mis mejores deseos para este año , saludos desde Bell ville Córdoba Argentina..
Great videos and I've got to say I've learnt so much from your videos on fork servicing , I'd like to ask you a question , have you any videos on full fork disassembly ,re damping rod bolt and cartridge out too . This is a job that a lot of people have different options on how to tackle ,some says impact driver or you get special holding tools .I'd really like to hear your opinion on this subject . thanks for a fantastic video yet again .
Yes, we have full videos on the DMT website for a large array of forks. With damping rods, step on is to try getting the bolt out by hand, then an impact driver. If it is still captive in the damping rod, the holding tool is the third option. You can of course go straight to holding tool and loosen the bolt by hand.
Great video Dave. Very informative. I noticed you polished the chrome tube with some 400 grit sand paper/cloth. Is this just regular 400 grit abrasive paper or some special item needed. Any risk for the Chrome ?
With chrome there is no risk and I have been polishing chrome tubes this way since the mid 90's. We have always use 400 grit emery cloth that comes in a 1" roll as a strip so we only use what is needed. If you wanted a very fine finish you can use 600 grit. Note that I don't put a huge amount of energy into the polishing task nor spend a long time doing it. All other fork surface coatings cannot have any form of abrasive cloth on them.
Hi Dave, Great video/tutorial, Sir! It made life easy following along step by step. Question - On these forks, based on the 24 clicks out / 7 turns in, what base setting would you recommend for the hi/low speed compression? Thanks!!
Really enjoyed the video, have been considering a fork change to R6 forks of that vintage. Do you think the R6 forks are a better fork for adjustability, than say a GSX-r showa, and or KYB set ? It would be swapped onto a SV650 ...Thanks much. yl
15:14 Would the seal get damaged if you spray WD-40 or PB Blaster (some type of cleaner) in that groove? How often should these fork seals and oil be changed? I have an 08 R6 and was just curious. I don't do any wheelies on it either so the life of the forks should be longer right? I really enjoy this video, lot of information. I had no idea how to do this job and no idea it was this complicating. that's probably why it rarely gets changed on used bikes.
Love the video Dave, was great to actually get stuck into doing the forks and learning along the way! Quick question, do both forks on a R6 06’ have a damper rod?
very comprehensive video too bad that i cant service my own bike due to i dont have a garage. i doubt the motorshop will even do that good job as you do, they probably open the top, dump the old oil without taking off the compression ring. let alone pouring out the metal flick
Hello Dave Moss Tuning. Very nice video. I learn a lot and more easily thanks to you. I did like on your video but I had Olhins oil (D43 19 Cst à 40°C ). With Olhins 1000g springs I come up against the big brakes with closed hydraulics -9 (air height 110 mm). I weigh 100 kilograms and have a 2006 R6. I made an air height of 115 mm. Will this solve my problem? or should I add thicker oil? I only ride on circuits Thanks again for what you do.
Dave, I really appreciate your video! Thank you! I would like to ask where did you get the attachments for your work table like the drain pan and for the support that swivel under your bench?
great info thank you, do you have to do the same thing with the rebound clicks when putting back together on a hayabusa too and is there a way to get it wrong so you don't have the same factory clicks you started with
You turn the rebound adjuster from all the way left to the correct number of clicks right. Install the cap until it bottoms out and bring the jam nut up to the cap and make it snug. Check your full range. if correct set at 6 clicks from maximum and tighten. Check range again.
@@catalystreactionsbw brilliant thank you , so once fluid is in turn the rebound clockwise to it's maximum stock number and snug cap down and bring lock nut to cap and tighten, then bring it back to where u have it when I ride around 5-6 , do the cap up and check full range afterwards . I'm a bit nervous doing it because I'm worried they won't match up and give me equal rebound both sides but if they are different I'm sure there's a way to fix it , in my manual it says when installing cap to back off rebound to softest position and make sure there's 11mm of thread showing on rod above lock nut both forks and then install, your way makes sense tho because if I'm fully clockwise on rebound both needles will get snugged into top of rebound rod at the same height and not much can go wrong then I guess 😁👍🏼
Auto Land Inc. Appreciate this was 2 years ago but did you complete this job on your 08 R6 and did you find the procedure to be the same? Minor changes to the front forks are listed among the differences between the 06/07 and 08 bike so it would be good to know if the procedure is the same as this video?
Wow Dave, thank you for this video. Absolutely excellent. I did this years ago to my 03 GSXR forks, basically without any special tools. What a total pain in the ass. Thinking about buying the fork spring compressor and a few other tools and giving it another go. Now aside from the compression valve, would this process be pretty much the same for stock ohlins forks on a 1098S? Would the emery cloth damage the coating on the inner fork tube? What oil height would I be looking for? Thank you as always Dave. And thanks to the man behind the camera, Dave Williams!
Thanks for the kind words. Yes, the process is similar on the Ohlins R&T forks. You ONLY use the emery cloth on chrome fork tubes - nothing else as it would destroy the coating.
Dave Moss Tuning Thanks for the reply Dave. I purchased a fork spring compressor, next will be the fork oil gauge, can't believe they go for +$100, crazy. Anyway, also looking at buying a decent bench vise. What kind of jaws are you using in this video and/or where can I find them? Again and as always, thank you for everything you and Dave Williams do. It is greatly appreciated!
Question.... I took my forks off and took them to my local dealer to have them replace the fluid and seals. Before I took it I made sure they were both at 26 clicks and had a full range of 50!! When i got them back i brought my flathead and counted the clicks. It has a TOTAL of 40 clicks now. What problems can or will that cause and what would you suggest I do? I dont have the special tool or a bench vise to do it myself !! Your input would be GREATLY APPRECIATED!!! Thanks in advance....
Non realistically. Damping works at 15 clicks in from all the way out, so techincally if you got them at 35 clicks range, they would work right away with rebound.
Thanks Dave - my son now has an R6 and we have to do this job so this video is perfect for us. One thing we did notice with our bike was there is very little difference between rebound full out and fully in. Fully out the forks do not "roll over the top" when compressed and released. Action is fairly quick though. Any thoughts ?
Not with these forks. If there is a hidden allen bolt in the axle casting housing, yes you can do that. It is VERY MESSY indeed and a huge clean up operation.
Dave, thanks for the great video. What type of oil level tool are you using? I use the common syringe type and they are mostly more trouble than they are worth.
The oil level tool is from Race Tech. The syringe is good if you keep the rubber part dry and yes, it is a pain to keep taking it out and cleaning it. I've had the Race Tech tool for several years now.
Oil seal only. Dust seal is there to scrape dirt off the tube so having grease inside the dust seal will keep all the dirt and debris inside. In time that will damage the oil seal and tube.
Awesome video! Is there anyway you could include a list of tools you would need to do this on your own? My 09' R6 needs the fork seals replaced before I can hit the track. Thanks Dave
@@stinkydog999 Fork spring compressor, 43mm seal driver, oil level setting tool, rebound rod holding tool, 12, 14 &17mm spanner, large and small flat tip screwdriver, adjustable spanner for fork cap and compression adjuster housing, 3mm allen
Dave, Thanks for the video ... Ive disassembled one fork and had the washer come out after I removed the spring. In the video you mentioned it, but yours never came out. I assume in re-assembly I put it in before the loading the spring. Anything else I should watch for ? Christian
Hi Dave. Great video😎👍I currently have my '99 R1 forks apart on the bench as one side has started leaking again. Think it is pretty much the same procedure you demonstrate apart from the service manual for mine says to insert inner tube with seal/clip and dust seal into outer tube then use a driver to install them. If I did it the same way you did isn't there a risk of the two holes half way up the inner tube damaging the seal as you insert the inner tube?
Yes, there is a chance that you might nick the seal hence the suggestion via the manual. If the seal is leaking again, please check the fork leg is truly "round" and inspect the bushing to make sure the teflon is not worn.
Dave Moss Tuning morning Dave. I have looked at the bushes. They are smooth and grey coating is still there which is good as I understand the bushes are non replaceable?. I will check they are not bent with a straight edge. Have noticed a light scratch on the leg so will try a light sanding.👍
400 grit emery cloth for chrome, all other surfaces cannot be sanded. Yes, bushings can be replaced. Check how tight they are to the tube. If there's a big gap, there could be a problem
Dave Moss Tuning . Hi Dave. There is a bit of slack between bushes and lower tube🙁have not managed to source any info on how to replace bushes or tools.
They want you to buy the entire outer tube and you can't buy just the bushings unless you can extract them with a special tool, measure them and contact Race Tech for the duplicate size. The tool is a tube that has three fingers that are chamferred so they can slip in behind the bushing to extract it. I cannot find a picture of the tool on any of the suspension vendors sites so I will have to go digging for it
Boss great day. Big follower here..I have a stretched R6…Any DIY video on how to increase R6 height adjustment?Thank you..Regards all the way from Philippines
You can place shim between the shock and the frame up to 5mm. Follow the shock to under the seat and you will see the stock ride height spacer in place.
I noticed you didn’t remove the bushing and rebound rod from inside off the inner fork tube, I guess it can’t be stripped? No need to use a degreaser or brake kleen to fully flush out old oil / contaminates, just drain and fit back together?
If the fork seal comes off with the outer tube the bushings are captive. If worn you buy a new outer tube. In this case being able to remove the compression piston assembly almost all the metal debris is removes.
Hi Dave, super interesting video, motivating as well to do this myself. I have a question regarding my '14 Tuono. This has the compression in the left leg and rebound in the right leg. The service manual does not indicate the amount of clicks (range) I should have for the setting screws. How do I know what the range should be? Do you know it? Compression is set at 13 clicks out of 16 is my preferred setting. The previous owner got the forks serviced, but I am not sure it was done properly, considering the current of 13 our of 16 clicks.
If the forks have less than 6,000 miles on them since the last service, the oil chosen was correct. Rebound is normally 6-8 clicks out so try 12, 9 and 6 to see what you prefer.
@@catalystreactionsbw hi Dave, thanks for your reply. I checked my settings this evening to be sure and this is what they are: Compression: 18 clicks open out of 20 Rebound: 6 clicks open out of 18 This setting was applied by a specialist in Holland and I can confirm I like this setting. The specialist mentioned the compression leg does have a LOT of/too much compression. For sure the bike has not driven 6000 miles since the service. I will service the fork soon, should I set the rebound side to a range of 20 clicks? And what do you think is going on in the compression leg? Oil too thick or air chamber to small?
Hey Dave. I changed the fork seals a couple summers ago. When pulling the rebound rods up and down there was a bit of resistance offered by left one when pulling up, but not the right one (this is with fluid completely drained). I'm guessing this is the cartridge? If so, do I need to replace the entire cartridge or is there a more cost friendly solution?
Same process with Ducati/Ohlins but you have to detach the needle from the fork cap. BMW and DDC cartridge is different process due to different design.
@@catalystreactionsbw Thank you. I have a BMW with a DDC cartridge in the left side. I'm a heavier rider and would like to use a heavier oil. Is that a bad idea with a DDC? Book spec is 7.5w. I'd like to bump up to 10w.
@@NathanTBlack The DDC cartridge needs special tools to open and service it. I do not know of a service center on the West Coast than has the tooling to do this. You would use a 1.1 fork spring rate as part of the solution.
@@NathanTBlack All good. The oil in the fork legs is for lubrication only so changing oil viscosity will have minimal effect. Oil volume will have more on an effect: th-cam.com/video/EiZY0lcqeR8/w-d-xo.html
Awesome video!! Although when i opened my forks up and took the top cap off the jam nut was at the bottom of the rod and is tight on there. I cannot remove the jam nut as the whole rod rotates along with it. Any ideas how to loosen and remove the jam nut :(?. While attempting this i might also have damaged the threads on the damper rod. How do we remove this to install a new damper rod if needed? Thanks!
To get the jam nut loose you need to gently clamp the rebound rod in a flat or soft jaw vice and see if it will move free right away. If not, the rod might be slightly bent. If you bottom out the cap on the rod firmly, you might get enough tension to break the nut free.
Dave Moss Tuning thanks dave all sorted .. just needed a bit more elbow grease. Do you schd appointmenfs via skype etc for ovseas people as well? I am in melbourne Australia
I help riders all over the world via Skype :) We just have to take note of the time differences and I need to interact with you when the scheduling here (not teaching or at the track) coincides with your schedule.
As a mechanic this is probably the best content you can get. This man needs to be protected at all costs. 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Thank you for your kind words. I sincerely appreciate the support!
I have done my forks 4 times now and I break this video out every time. By the time I'm ready to do them again, I've already forgotten a point or two. Thus, I can only assume Dave has done this in the hundreds of times.
Please add a '0' to that :) Thanks for leveraging the content and doing the work yourself!
How much would this job cost? I don't have the time, area and tools.. or less I would do this myself.
I had just bought my first bike with 19k on it.
Great video, again! I did this on my FZ-09 about 8 months ago.. this video would have been so helpful back then. I managed to work it out but still learnt a lot from this video! Thanks Dave for "giving back" to motorcycles, a lot of people don't share their knowledge. Hope to get to meet you at a track sometime! Cheers!
I can not thank you enough for such a great "how-to".
you either get a video that's too short and skips alot of important items or you get a REALLT Long video that spends the first 35 minutes explaining what a washer is then another 35 minutes explaining where the word "washer" came from...
so my point is, your video was perfect. no extra BS, explained every step and displayed every step of the process. you made my fork job seem as easy as you were doing it
thank you again.
Thanks Paul. I try to balance thoroughness with being concise. Still working on it :) Glad the video made the task easy to do.
So much appreciation for this video Dave, I’ve just completed my first ever seal change on y 2013 R6, probably saved me £200 £300, and wasn’t as bad as I was expecting! Also used your installation video to re install the forks and used the installation video to put the front wheel on! Most helpful person on TH-cam for this sort of stuff, PERIOD! Many thanks 🙏
Glad it helped and thanks for using the videos to help you do the job yourself!
Never realized how involved it was. With the right tools it seems pretty straightforward. Thanks for the informative video.
It is very straight forward especially if you use the pause button at the right time :)
Most comprehensive video ive seen on fork seal/oil change. Quality! thank you so much for sharing.
holly crap!! by far far the best tutorial i've ever seen!! super clear explanations,very articulate ,well...MR MOSS...i think we can say you're the very best in that field,the creme of the creme.
Thanks for the kind words. It is reassuring to know the format, language and content as a whole take away the stress of doing the fork oil seal and change for those that want to give it a go!
I don't even need to do this or even have an R6 (yet) but that was so interesting and informative to watch.
Me to man, this is one of the most interresting channels on youtube for my preferences :D
you must have a lot of time on your hands
Hank Alan if you are interrested in somthing you will make time ;-)
In the meantime some guy i know showed me how to do it with the forks of my cbr 600 rr track bike and really, its not that hard. It seems intimidating when you watch youtube but it all falls together after you’ve done it yourself.
same here .. no bike yet .. closing in on 42 .. thinking of getting me the license and a bike .. i might be to old to start tho ..
@@Ladosligese damn I just realised I posted that comment four years ago.. since then I've had an R6, s1000rr, and now a new s1000rr 😄 you are never too old.. please start riding, you'll discover a new way of life!
I did my forks yesterday with this video you have no idea how much your tutorial helped. YOU ARE THE MAN !!!
Thanks for rolling your sleeves up and getting to work!
That’s who you look like!!!! This whole time I was like he looks familiar! You look like Michael Rooker!!! And thank you for setting up my suspension, it was great to meet you
The only thing missing was a nurse dabbing your brow.. and the sound of a heart beat monitor... awesome vid Dave...
Thanks! It is a process for sure and that trailer was toasty at the time of filming.
Great video! If you don't have a rebound rod holder I'm pretty sure you can also set the compression to maximum to (mostly) prevent the rod from falling while you reassemble it.
wanted to say thank you for the video dave. changed my seals in no time and saved me a chunk of change I didn't have. only thing I did different was used the old seals to press in the new ones. no more leaks, thanks again!
Excellent and great improvisation with the old seals :)
Another successful job thanks to Dave Moss. All you have to do is follow the directions. Thanks, Dave.
Dave, you are a God, once I have my BMW 850GS I will be getting a remote session with you to set her up. I love your content and style I think you are amazing and charging just $40 for 1 day is a steal !!!!!
Thanks. I look forward to helping you.
not trying to nit pick but you used the wrench backward when you tightened the compression valve assembly. this is just for anyone reading this to help them learn to compliment this excellent instructional video. the wrench is designed to be used the other direction. if used on something that requires higher torque you can slip the wrench and round off the nut/bolt. the sliding part always toward the direction of force. this puts the edge of the bolt head that receives the torque at the rear of the tool's jaw which is stronger and doesn't flex. if used how dave used it the jaw will flex and allow excessive amount of slop on the bolt head and round it off when it receives high torque.
Dave Williams, editor, replying here. Excellent tip! Thank you for contributing. That is a pristine example of constructive criticism. Much appreciated.
Just use vise grips. Use either way if it's clamped hard enough to leave teeth marks
Excellent instructional video. Competent and comprehensive explanations on a step by step basis without any oops. If I were an apprentice I would love to be working in your shop. Thank you for taking the time to do this presentation. I will look for others by when the time comes.
I am about to buy r6 07 model, and this video is very much helpfull! Thanks Dave 👌🏻
Thank for all this amazing content you have given us. You may be one of the most helpful people on TH-cam.
I appreciate that!
@@catalystreactionsbw what is the difference in suspension from R6 06-07 to 08- I have a 06, I need to replace the tubes because one is damaged, I found several suspensions 08-, is there any special suspension that is compatible with my bike?
@@alemaozinho45 They are the same other than 08 and beyond being 10mm longer
Give this man an award! 🏆
I just went and got my suspension tune by Dave today and just happened upon this video while looking for how to replace my fork cap.
Thank you for the detailed video! I was going to pay a shop to do it but after watch the video I think I can do it myself! Thank you very much!
Replaced the oil and seals this week using this video! Thanks Dave!
Tip ..make sure your bushings are not wore or you will be killing your time and hard work!!and the spring is narrow on one end which fits the preload spacer
great video and well done describing what is being done! wish i could tackle something like this myself. bought a 06 r6 couple weeks ago and just noticed decent leak on my left fork. guess i'm gonna have someone do both while it's in the shop. figured why just do one.
Dave, what a great public service!!! But an intimidating job for an intermediate home pro... Think I`ll pay for this one.
Awesome step-by-step walk through. Dave you're the best. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and for doing it with every little detail.
Well done! Great insight into if I want to tackle this job or not. I assume the process is similar for the R1 (2007).
Yes, correct.
Thank you so much Dave for sharing your knowledge with all of us! Your work and videos are second to none!
so which plonker pressed the dislike button by mistake! !??
+therealmrcheese I was thinking the exact same thing!!! This is one of the most clear and concise how to videos I have ever seen on fork seals.
Excellent video!
+lm0315 I know and some other plinker has pressed the wrong button now to! wasn't you was it!! lol
+therealmrcheese grrrr spell check is the worst invention ever!!! PLONKER!
+therealmrcheese grrrr spell check is the worst invention ever!!! PLONKER!
therealmrcheese Honda rider? maybe? - my only guess? Lol
this video helped a lot just replaced both fork seals yesterday
thank you very much for getting fresh oil and seals in your bike. You should notice the difference in fork action and bump compliance.
Everything explained perfectly and for my exact bike. Let me know I definitely need to take mine to a shop cuz this is out of my league.
Dear Dave.
My Grandfather had a piece of rubber- I think it was old tire or tube on the vice faces, for extra grip / slip and anti-marring
Some old wetsuit material would be a good choice!
Couple rectangular pieces just kept near the vice
Just a thought
I always appreciate good suggestions. Thank you.
Wondering if the replacing the top cap method is the same for older models ? ? Best clip on TH-cam by far ,Dave you are a great teacher 👍
The process is the same for every OEM cap as long as you know how many turns or clicks you should have stock.
@@catalystreactionsbw thanks a million , bought a R6 and the seals need doing , going to do them my self 👍
incredible video. thank you for the free lesson!
Best how-to videos i've seen in ages. Thanks!!
Excellent video, you make that look so easy!
Great video as always! The rebound adjusters on my Suzuki gsx1400 also wasn't set equally on both forks, I will set it like you demonstrate here in the video, cause now I got different range of clicks in both forks, not good... And you can feel it when you ride the bike, totally unbalanced front...
Excellent work on checking and then understanding the benefits of correctly set damping!
@@catalystreactionsbw I totally agree, and the guys who did the revision on my forks probably didn't pay too much attention on these details, next time I'll do it myself, and thanks to all of your videos on youtube, I have a better understanding of suspension basics, troubleshooting, etc... Thank you Dave & keep up the good work!
Well presented and thorough. Bravo. Enjoyed watching.
Sorry mr moss these fork seals you showed are NOT for the 06/07 Yamaha r6. The OEM part number is 5vy-23145-00 the , fork seal you show here has the spring on top of the seal with writing, the seal I posted has the spring on bottom and there is no offset for this seal.
This seal is a 41x53x11..the type of seal you showed in this video is a 9.5/10 which explains that offset..
Which the 2007 R1s are
Thank you for your post and information for others to leverage.
Muchas gracias por el video , fue de suma utilidad, realize un exelente trabajo gracias a la instrucción detallada , abrazo grande y mis mejores deseos para este año , saludos desde Bell ville Córdoba Argentina..
Mr Dave - thanks this move I made my bike muuuuuuuch better. Thanks a lot
Great videos and I've got to say I've learnt so much from your videos on fork servicing , I'd like to ask you a question , have you any videos on full fork disassembly ,re damping rod bolt and cartridge out too . This is a job that a lot of people have different options on how to tackle ,some says impact driver or you get special holding tools .I'd really like to hear your opinion on this subject . thanks for a fantastic video yet again .
Yes, we have full videos on the DMT website for a large array of forks. With damping rods, step on is to try getting the bolt out by hand, then an impact driver. If it is still captive in the damping rod, the holding tool is the third option. You can of course go straight to holding tool and loosen the bolt by hand.
@@catalystreactionsbw fantastic , I'll have a look on DMT thanks very much 👍.
This is probably the hardest & time-consuming maintenance on a sportbike
Dave you are the best. Great video. Thank you so much sir. Forks, here I come.
Dave Moss is the man!
Great video Dave. Very informative. I noticed you polished the chrome tube with some 400 grit sand paper/cloth. Is this just regular 400 grit abrasive paper or some special item needed. Any risk for the Chrome ?
With chrome there is no risk and I have been polishing chrome tubes this way since the mid 90's. We have always use 400 grit emery cloth that comes in a 1" roll as a strip so we only use what is needed. If you wanted a very fine finish you can use 600 grit. Note that I don't put a huge amount of energy into the polishing task nor spend a long time doing it. All other fork surface coatings cannot have any form of abrasive cloth on them.
Thanks for your response Dave, really appreciate it. Love your videos and hope I can visit some day. Greetings from France. Mark
Hi Dave, Great video/tutorial, Sir! It made life easy following along step by step. Question - On these forks, based on the 24 clicks out / 7 turns in, what base setting would you recommend for the hi/low speed compression? Thanks!!
High at 1.5 turns out, low between 6-10 clicks out.
Really enjoyed the video, have been considering a fork change to R6 forks of that vintage. Do you think the R6 forks are a better fork for adjustability, than say a GSX-r showa, and or KYB set ? It would be swapped onto a SV650 ...Thanks much. yl
Love the technical explanation of the forks! Thanks for sharing!
15:14 Would the seal get damaged if you spray WD-40 or PB Blaster (some type of cleaner) in that groove? How often should these fork seals and oil be changed? I have an 08 R6 and was just curious. I don't do any wheelies on it either so the life of the forks should be longer right? I really enjoy this video, lot of information. I had no idea how to do this job and no idea it was this complicating. that's probably why it rarely gets changed on used bikes.
Love the video Dave, was great to actually get stuck into doing the forks and learning along the way!
Quick question, do both forks on a R6 06’ have a damper rod?
Thank you for taking the time to comment! Yes - both do. The big giveaway is preload on one cap and damping for COM and TEN in the other side.
as always your videos are top notch, you have helped me do so much to my CBR, Thank you
Thank you very much for sharing your kind words, and most importantly for wanting to learn
Very informative video. Thanks Dave!
very comprehensive video
too bad that i cant service my own bike due to i dont have a garage. i doubt the motorshop will even do that good job as you do, they probably open the top, dump the old oil without taking off the compression ring. let alone pouring out the metal flick
very good your work i am here from Brazil, few mechanics have this knowledge, my congratulations
the best 30 mins of my life
The so called $30 spring compression tool are not bad at all. You can push it down by hand or use a strap.
Thanks for the very simple, easy to follow video!
Hello Dave Moss Tuning.
Very nice video.
I learn a lot and more easily thanks to you.
I did like on your video but I had Olhins oil (D43 19 Cst à 40°C ). With Olhins 1000g springs I come up against the big brakes with closed hydraulics -9 (air height 110 mm).
I weigh 100 kilograms and have a 2006 R6. I made an air height of 115 mm.
Will this solve my problem? or should I add thicker oil?
I only ride on circuits
Thanks again for what you do.
Dave, I really appreciate your video! Thank you!
I would like to ask where did you get the attachments for your work table like the drain pan and for the support that swivel under your bench?
Thanks for the kind words! All of that was hand made by Dave Hodges
great info thank you, do you have to do the same thing with the rebound clicks when putting back together on a hayabusa too and is there a way to get it wrong so you don't have the same factory clicks you started with
You turn the rebound adjuster from all the way left to the correct number of clicks right. Install the cap until it bottoms out and bring the jam nut up to the cap and make it snug. Check your full range. if correct set at 6 clicks from maximum and tighten. Check range again.
@@catalystreactionsbw brilliant thank you , so once fluid is in turn the rebound clockwise to it's maximum stock number and snug cap down and bring lock nut to cap and tighten, then bring it back to where u have it when I ride around 5-6 , do the cap up and check full range afterwards . I'm a bit nervous doing it because I'm worried they won't match up and give me equal rebound both sides but if they are different I'm sure there's a way to fix it , in my manual it says when installing cap to back off rebound to softest position and make sure there's 11mm of thread showing on rod above lock nut both forks and then install, your way makes sense tho because if I'm fully clockwise on rebound both needles will get snugged into top of rebound rod at the same height and not much can go wrong then I guess 😁👍🏼
Brilliant video production, Dave. Thank you.
Hey Dave I'll be doing this on my 08 here pretty soon! Are there any differences in the forks from the 06/07 to the 08+ any additional steps or tips?
Auto Land Inc. Appreciate this was 2 years ago but did you complete this job on your 08 R6 and did you find the procedure to be the same? Minor changes to the front forks are listed among the differences between the 06/07 and 08 bike so it would be good to know if the procedure is the same as this video?
I just did 2007 r6 it’s the same
Wow Dave, thank you for this video. Absolutely excellent.
I did this years ago to my 03 GSXR forks, basically without any special tools. What a total pain in the ass. Thinking about buying the fork spring compressor and a few other tools and giving it another go.
Now aside from the compression valve, would this process be pretty much the same for stock ohlins forks on a 1098S?
Would the emery cloth damage the coating on the inner fork tube? What oil height would I be looking for?
Thank you as always Dave. And thanks to the man behind the camera, Dave Williams!
Thanks for the kind words. Yes, the process is similar on the Ohlins R&T forks. You ONLY use the emery cloth on chrome fork tubes - nothing else as it would destroy the coating.
Dave Moss Tuning
Thanks for the reply Dave. I purchased a fork spring compressor, next will be the fork oil gauge, can't believe they go for +$100, crazy. Anyway, also looking at buying a decent bench vise. What kind of jaws are you using in this video and/or where can I find them? Again and as always, thank you for everything you and Dave Williams do. It is greatly appreciated!
Good video Dave!
Question.... I took my forks off and took them to my local dealer to have them replace the fluid and seals. Before I took it I made sure they were both at 26 clicks and had a full range of 50!! When i got them back i brought my flathead and counted the clicks. It has a TOTAL of 40 clicks now. What problems can or will that cause and what would you suggest I do? I dont have the special tool or a bench vise to do it myself !! Your input would be GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!
Thanks in advance....
Non realistically. Damping works at 15 clicks in from all the way out, so techincally if you got them at 35 clicks range, they would work right away with rebound.
Dave Moss Tuning
Good to know since I wasn't sure...
Thought the guy that did it might have messed up during the process.
Thanks for the reply!
Thanks Dave - my son now has an R6 and we have to do this job so this video is perfect for us. One thing we did notice with our bike was there is very little difference between rebound full out and fully in. Fully out the forks do not "roll over the top" when compressed and released. Action is fairly quick though. Any thoughts ?
+Paul Byrne might be really old oil and a lot of stiction. Pull the forks up and see if the 'stick'. That will confirm striction.
Dave Moss Tuning Thanks Dave - some stiction is evident. Will do full service as described. Thanks for posting this video.
Is the oil level of 115 mm standard measurement for these upside down forks? Showa and such?
Another great video! Question, is it possible to remove the spring and top cap as one unit and not compress the spring or remove the cap?
Not with these forks. If there is a hidden allen bolt in the axle casting housing, yes you can do that. It is VERY MESSY indeed and a huge clean up operation.
My go-to when doing fork seals!
Dave, thanks for the great video. What type of oil level tool are you using? I use the common syringe type and they are mostly more trouble than they are worth.
The oil level tool is from Race Tech. The syringe is good if you keep the rubber part dry and yes, it is a pain to keep taking it out and cleaning it. I've had the Race Tech tool for several years now.
Is not recommended to put grease in the dust seal? I just got to know your channel and the content is fantastic!
Oil seal only. Dust seal is there to scrape dirt off the tube so having grease inside the dust seal will keep all the dirt and debris inside. In time that will damage the oil seal and tube.
@@catalystreactionsbw thank you very much for your willingness to record this content and to answer the question I made.
Hello hello Dave!!What type of fork oil is the best for road use?Keep up the good work guys!!!
for the 06/07 7.5 or 10w depending on how cold or hot your climate is married to your type of use.
@@catalystreactionsbw Super thanks dave!!!!Greece here ao 5w is beter??thanks again!!!!
@@paiterisnikos For the 2006 and 2007 R6, 7.5 or 10w. For 2008 R6 to 2017, best is 5w fork oil.
@@catalystreactionsbw Super thanks!!!!!!
Awesome video! Is there anyway you could include a list of tools you would need to do this on your own? My 09' R6 needs the fork seals replaced before I can hit the track. Thanks Dave
Would this be a complete list of every tool needed for this one job?
@@catalystreactionsbw Yeah, I would like to know how to work on my own bike first before i looked at other motorcycles.
@@stinkydog999 Fork spring compressor, 43mm seal driver, oil level setting tool, rebound rod holding tool, 12, 14 &17mm spanner, large and small flat tip screwdriver, adjustable spanner for fork cap and compression adjuster housing, 3mm allen
@@catalystreactionsbw I appreciate it Dave! Thank you!
Dave's probably toured the actual fork factory to get the knowledge
Stronk Komrade 🤣
Thank you for an excellent video!
Thanks for sharing that much of great and professional work in your videos.✌️
Glad you like them!
Fantastic explanation 👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽 thank you for uploading.
Dave,
Thanks for the video ... Ive disassembled one fork and had the washer come out after I removed the spring. In the video you mentioned it, but yours never came out. I assume in re-assembly I put it in before the loading the spring. Anything else I should watch for ?
Christian
Hi Christian. Put the washer in before the you pour in oil.
you are the man, Dave.
Wow.. Such a professional!
Very informative. Thanks, Dave!
Amazing... Great job!!
what would you suggest for stripped threads on oil pan?oversized bolt,time sert or replacing the oil pan.Thanks in advance
Thank you Dave love you videos!
Hi Dave. Great video😎👍I currently have my '99 R1 forks apart on the bench as one side has started leaking again. Think it is pretty much the same procedure you demonstrate apart from the service manual for mine says to insert inner tube with seal/clip and dust seal into outer tube then use a driver to install them. If I did it the same way you did isn't there a risk of the two holes half way up the inner tube damaging the seal as you insert the inner tube?
Yes, there is a chance that you might nick the seal hence the suggestion via the manual. If the seal is leaking again, please check the fork leg is truly "round" and inspect the bushing to make sure the teflon is not worn.
Dave Moss Tuning morning Dave. I have looked at the bushes. They are smooth and grey coating is still there which is good as I understand the bushes are non replaceable?. I will check they are not bent with a straight edge. Have noticed a light scratch on the leg so will try a light sanding.👍
400 grit emery cloth for chrome, all other surfaces cannot be sanded. Yes, bushings can be replaced. Check how tight they are to the tube. If there's a big gap, there could be a problem
Dave Moss Tuning . Hi Dave. There is a bit of slack between bushes and lower tube🙁have not managed to source any info on how to replace bushes or tools.
They want you to buy the entire outer tube and you can't buy just the bushings unless you can extract them with a special tool, measure them and contact Race Tech for the duplicate size. The tool is a tube that has three fingers that are chamferred so they can slip in behind the bushing to extract it. I cannot find a picture of the tool on any of the suspension vendors sites so I will have to go digging for it
Boss great day. Big follower here..I have a stretched R6…Any DIY video on how to increase R6 height adjustment?Thank you..Regards all the way from Philippines
You can place shim between the shock and the frame up to 5mm. Follow the shock to under the seat and you will see the stock ride height spacer in place.
Thanks boss!!!Ride Safe!
I noticed you didn’t remove the bushing and rebound rod from inside off the inner fork tube, I guess it can’t be stripped? No need to use a degreaser or brake kleen to fully flush out old oil / contaminates, just drain and fit back together?
If the fork seal comes off with the outer tube the bushings are captive. If worn you buy a new outer tube. In this case being able to remove the compression piston assembly almost all the metal debris is removes.
Hello Dave.
Do you have video related to the old gs1150 bikes?
Kind regards Morten.
Dear Dave Ihave an 09 R6 and gonig to do it by myself my question is, Can use the 5W fork oil.?
I use the bike only for sttret
Hi Dave, super interesting video, motivating as well to do this myself. I have a question regarding my '14 Tuono. This has the compression in the left leg and rebound in the right leg. The service manual does not indicate the amount of clicks (range) I should have for the setting screws. How do I know what the range should be? Do you know it?
Compression is set at 13 clicks out of 16 is my preferred setting. The previous owner got the forks serviced, but I am not sure it was done properly, considering the current of 13 our of 16 clicks.
If the forks have less than 6,000 miles on them since the last service, the oil chosen was correct. Rebound is normally 6-8 clicks out so try 12, 9 and 6 to see what you prefer.
@@catalystreactionsbw hi Dave, thanks for your reply. I checked my settings this evening to be sure and this is what they are:
Compression: 18 clicks open out of 20
Rebound: 6 clicks open out of 18
This setting was applied by a specialist in Holland and I can confirm I like this setting. The specialist mentioned the compression leg does have a LOT of/too much compression.
For sure the bike has not driven 6000 miles since the service.
I will service the fork soon, should I set the rebound side to a range of 20 clicks?
And what do you think is going on in the compression leg? Oil too thick or air chamber to small?
Hey Dave. I changed the fork seals a couple summers ago. When pulling the rebound rods up and down there was a bit of resistance offered by left one when pulling up, but not the right one (this is with fluid completely drained). I'm guessing this is the cartridge? If so, do I need to replace the entire cartridge or is there a more cost friendly solution?
hey guys this video seem great will it be enough to tackle cbr929 seals how much difference in the process
The more I learn about sport bikes the less I want one.
Hi, Dave. Thanks for the video. Any tips on doing this with an electronically adjustable fork?
Same process with Ducati/Ohlins but you have to detach the needle from the fork cap. BMW and DDC cartridge is different process due to different design.
@@catalystreactionsbw Thank you. I have a BMW with a DDC cartridge in the left side. I'm a heavier rider and would like to use a heavier oil. Is that a bad idea with a DDC? Book spec is 7.5w. I'd like to bump up to 10w.
@@NathanTBlack The DDC cartridge needs special tools to open and service it. I do not know of a service center on the West Coast than has the tooling to do this. You would use a 1.1 fork spring rate as part of the solution.
@@catalystreactionsbw sorry, I was unclear. I meant the regular fork oil outside of the DDC cartridge, and of course in the other fork leg.
@@NathanTBlack All good. The oil in the fork legs is for lubrication only so changing oil viscosity will have minimal effect. Oil volume will have more on an effect: th-cam.com/video/EiZY0lcqeR8/w-d-xo.html
Awesome video man thanks👍
Thanks for watching!
phenomenal video thanks for the valuable info
Awesome video!! Although when i opened my forks up and took the top cap off the jam nut was at the bottom of the rod and is tight on there. I cannot remove the jam nut as the whole rod rotates along with it. Any ideas how to loosen and remove the jam nut :(?. While attempting this i might also have damaged the threads on the damper rod. How do we remove this to install a new damper rod if needed? Thanks!
To get the jam nut loose you need to gently clamp the rebound rod in a flat or soft jaw vice and see if it will move free right away. If not, the rod might be slightly bent. If you bottom out the cap on the rod firmly, you might get enough tension to break the nut free.
Dave Moss Tuning thanks dave all sorted .. just needed a bit more elbow grease. Do you schd appointmenfs via skype etc for ovseas people as well? I am in melbourne Australia
I help riders all over the world via Skype :) We just have to take note of the time differences and I need to interact with you when the scheduling here (not teaching or at the track) coincides with your schedule.
Thanks how do i get in touch with you to arrange that?