i would deff upgrade the cams they usually blow out at 300ftlbs of torque and with a stage 2 tune on stock turbo youre usually around that mark also i would get a stage 2 clutch installed with a vr6 flywheel
Badass man. But all big turbo 1.8t guys still have a special place in their heart for that k03 2400 rpm torque shove. I know I'll miss it, but I am collecting parts for gt28 now. Have ECU already and manifold for my super healthy aeb b5. We will see how much she can take. I'm giving her all the boost on stock internals. E85 from United Motorsports. Should give me a cushion. Love that fuel. Safe!
Gt28 is a great choice. Full boost around 3k rpm and when it hits, it pulls all the way to redline with barely any pressure drop. Your project sounds like a sick setup! Unfortunately I have to stick to pump gas with the lack of race gas around here. :(
I don’t know if you have finished your build yet but trust me you won’t miss the ko3 lmao. The torque shove from my 3071r at 4K is indefinitely better, I’m sure your gt28 will make you smile at around 3200
Sick my dude! I guess you know the potential of these VW/AUDI 20 Valve Qwad Bangers. AEB heads from 98'-04 passats are direct bolt ons with forged cams and middle intake valve goes from quarter sized to half dollar size for that torque. I miss it and want to 20v 1.8t swap a mk3 GTI but for now Im running a 2017 Hellcat. Peace
Yea I'm that guy. The first thing to understand about tuning for power is your engine and how it works. Disclaimer that should be in neon, To properly run ANY wastegate on a VAG 1.8t requires you to run a custom Mafless program to avoid damaging your engine. Your misunderstanding about the gates belt says a need to do more research before you buy and/or recommend something that's not accurate and is far more unreliable than OEM. There's plenty of other ytube vids with VAG 1.8t making far more power on an OEM belt, that's not an insult that is for you to understand many others have done this before, learn from their failure and success and you'll go further. Nice vid, very nice.
More explanation and less crappy music would be great. I don't understand turbo cars. Trying to figure out what is going on. Did you have to reprogram the computer? What about injectors? Fuel pump?
Sorry, I have the problem that my car does not turn on the first gear, I have the vagcom but I don't know how to use it and I saw that in a video you moved parameters and it turned on the car was when you changed the turbo, I use the turbo k03
Hey average follower here and love the build... had a question... I have a 02 gti with what I was told has a k03's... I want to upgrade but not sure if I should baby step to a k04 or jump to the gt28rs... im not looking at super crazy power #'s but want a little more just on the awp I have currently...
Pour eviter que ton turbo se casse a chaque fois mais y un filtre a air en cornet pour eviter que des truc rentre dedans apres tout c est un aspirateur alors qu on s'étonne pas qui casse un filtre a air en enbout affaire réglé et aucun perte de puissance juste des filtres a airs a changer de temps en temps
If you have the older 058 block (AEB), it works perfectly. The 058 is closely related to the older 8-valve engines like the ABA, so the manual tensioner is ideal for that application. If you have the 06A block (AWP, etc), stick with the automatic tensioner due to the different length of the 06A block. I have both engines. The manual tensioner is still going strong on the 058 block. The 06A resulted in timing belt failure and an expensive head repair which included replacing 8 valves. If you have the 06A block - use the hydraulic tensioner. AVOID the manual tensioner at all costs - or it will cost you BIG time. I learned that the HARD way.
@@dantesinfernopurgatory7826 dantes inferno purgatory I have a 06A that is fully built (ie tuscan rods, both male bearings, arp head and main studs, all Ferrara valve train, ect) I have never had a problem with there manual tensioner. I dont see why the blocks being "diffrent size" would even matter. Along with me i know a few other fully built 1.8 or bored out to 2.0 runing it with no issues what so ever. No disrespect but it sounds like u didn't tension the belt correctly or u didnt listen to ie service interval to check tension. (every oil change)
@@dantesinfernopurgatory7826 Not to mention vw/audi knew the gas charged piston design was the weak link for 1.8 engine timing components. Hence why its successor 2.0 fsi is running this type of tensioner. Also are u sure u didnt get things backwards? I wasnt aware Integrated engineering offered the manual tensioner for the 058. From my knowledge they only offer and suggest to use on 06A. Edit: i just checked they do offer it for 058 but its a diffrent part number.
1. The incident happened several years ago when IE first issued their kits. The culprit was a failed tensioner pulley. 2. I've been working on my own VW engines since 1981, and have been tensioning timing belts for several years. This was the first (and last) timing belt I had break on me. And my engines lasted 250K, 600K, 400K, 450K and 500K respectively. 3. >dantes inferno purgatory No disrespect but it sounds like u didn't tension the belt correctly or u didnt listen to ie service interval to check tension. (every oil change) No disrespect, but been there, done that (again since 1981). To expect each and every kit to ship without defects is unrealistic, anyone with experience with parts over the years know that. 4. Thanks for your response, but based on the advice of many VW mechanics and enthusiasts I've known for years, I decided to stick with the hydraulic tensioner on my 06A engine, and continue to use the IE manual tensioner on my 058. If it works for your 06A, good for you. I wish you many good miles on your build.
@@dantesinfernopurgatory7826 Like i said no hate over here. And yea anyone who has dealt with parts counter knows a thing or two about wrong part or faulty part. But out of curiosity how did the faulty pulley cause the belt to break? I would expect loss of tension at that point? At first u said it dosent work on 06A blocks because diffrence in size of block. Which i dont understand why that would matter considering the tension is adjusted from pulley because its offset hole. But now u are saying its because faulty parts? The same thing could be said about the hydraulic tensioner with just a o-ring keeping all tension from being lost. So which is it faulty part or diffrent size block? I also hope all your builds prosper and go many miles. I respect your opinion and i do believe somthing caused a issue with ur previous build. But to say that u dont suggest running it due to your one issue is pretty crazy. I along with many others run it with no issue. Not to mention IE runs them on there crate race motors they build which i believe come with a warranty.
Hello I have a 1.8t awp mk4 Jetta I’m gonna be putting in the gt28 the only thing that is holding me back is I can’t find a cold air intake can anyone tell me what kind of intake he is using
I forgot how much everything was but it’s nearly the same as a k04 setup if you source out the parts. And that was my thoughts exactly, might as well upgrade to something bigger while you’re in there.
Yep I would jump on that same boat! But I got this turbo at a really cheap price, literally a quarter of the cost of a gt3071 so the experience was worth it.
What is the space like and how easy was it to deal with? Do you think it would be good to go gt3071 or something bigger for the space? I’m not sure because I don’t want to have to pull the engine out for an install otherwise I’ll just end up sending it in for rods etc.
It was a bit difficult to work with especially bolting everything down. I had to crawl under the car to get the manifold bolts on. Definitely easier with the motor out but it can be done. It is just more time consuming. As for a bigger turbo, it probably wouldn't work out well since I had very little room sliding the gt28 onto the manifold. A top mount manifold may solve the issue.
Silly question but a diverter valve dumps excess boost right? But the wastegate dumps exhaust gas before it spools over the turbo turbine housing? Do they do the same thing in the long run though?
oTHTKo Slash DV and external wastegate aren’t related so you can use both. The DV dumps boost when you let off the throttle, purpose is to prevent all the boost traveling back to the turbo and cause surging. The wastegate is there to help control boost when you are on the throttle by opening up at a certain PSI.
@@VdubInParadise Thanks for clearing that up. I'm hoping to do a similar build on my leon 1.8t AUQ. Are you still using the factory boost control? I plan on running a 3582r at some point, would like to do my rods first though, and stage 2 clutch plus injectors and fuel pump. I'm currently running an oversized tip and 3" decat, want to do intercooler next and go stage 2 then big turbo :)
K04's have a slightly larger intake ( a few millimeters more), slightly more efficient blades and therefore produce a smudge more power, but really not that much more.
Xs power actually makes a k04-001XL turbo that uses a 2 inch inlet with a 50mm compressor wheel. Not sure the inducer and exducer specs but it was dynoed to 266 hp at 8600 ft above sea level on 89 octane. If the proper fueling is applied at sea level on 91 with bigger compressor piping and a high flow intake manifold and a higher flow exhaust manifold im pretty sure you can hit 300 hp on 24 psi. And it fits the stock configuration. Plus less weight in the car while using a bigger side mount intercooler. And less modifications because everything bolts right up. This will keep the stock internals at or below 300 hp and much more reliable as a daily driver.
You deserve more subs man ! Awesome content 🔥
i would deff upgrade the cams they usually blow out at 300ftlbs of torque and with a stage 2 tune on stock turbo youre usually around that mark also i would get a stage 2 clutch installed with a vr6 flywheel
Respect on the welding make it look easy
Badass man. But all big turbo 1.8t guys still have a special place in their heart for that k03 2400 rpm torque shove. I know I'll miss it, but I am collecting parts for gt28 now. Have ECU already and manifold for my super healthy aeb b5. We will see how much she can take. I'm giving her all the boost on stock internals. E85 from United Motorsports. Should give me a cushion. Love that fuel. Safe!
Gt28 is a great choice. Full boost around 3k rpm and when it hits, it pulls all the way to redline with barely any pressure drop. Your project sounds like a sick setup! Unfortunately I have to stick to pump gas with the lack of race gas around here. :(
I don’t know if you have finished your build yet but trust me you won’t miss the ko3 lmao. The torque shove from my 3071r at 4K is indefinitely better, I’m sure your gt28 will make you smile at around 3200
I love your videos building a beetle rn and Im new to the vw design and you’ve helped a lot
I'm thinking of slapping this turbo on my 2003 beetle as well
How did it come out
External WG sound mean, I agree 100%
Sick my dude! I guess you know the potential of these VW/AUDI 20 Valve Qwad Bangers. AEB heads from 98'-04 passats are direct bolt ons with forged cams and middle intake valve goes from quarter sized to half dollar size for that torque. I miss it and want to 20v 1.8t swap a mk3 GTI but for now Im running a 2017 Hellcat. Peace
Cutting and welding in flip flops 🤣🤣🤣
just copped a golf 1.8t for free just needs a lot of love so might as well go for big boost lolol. awesome content.
This thing is turning out mean, dude. Keep it up!
Something about those 1.8T’s bro 😍😍😍
Yea I'm that guy. The first thing to understand about tuning for power is your engine and how it works. Disclaimer that should be in neon, To properly run ANY wastegate on a VAG 1.8t requires you to run a custom Mafless program to avoid damaging your engine. Your misunderstanding about the gates belt says a need to do more research before you buy and/or recommend something that's not accurate and is far more unreliable than OEM. There's plenty of other ytube vids with VAG 1.8t making far more power on an OEM belt, that's not an insult that is for you to understand many others have done this before, learn from their failure and success and you'll go further. Nice vid, very nice.
More explanation and less crappy music would be great. I don't understand turbo cars. Trying to figure out what is going on. Did you have to reprogram the computer? What about injectors? Fuel pump?
Sorry, I have the problem that my car does not turn on the first gear, I have the vagcom but I don't know how to use it and I saw that in a video you moved parameters and it turned on the car was when you changed the turbo, I use the turbo k03
Cool build! Need to se more of this Quick :P
Most of Europe thinking why are they tuning fwd shhhboxes. Sounds like a tractor in a good way 😂
where did you buy the turbo
Hey average follower here and love the build... had a question... I have a 02 gti with what I was told has a k03's... I want to upgrade but not sure if I should baby step to a k04 or jump to the gt28rs... im not looking at super crazy power #'s but want a little more just on the awp I have currently...
go with a ko4 hybrid then. will still make good power but with little to no lag.
Pour eviter que ton turbo se casse a chaque fois mais y un filtre a air en cornet pour eviter que des truc rentre dedans apres tout c est un aspirateur alors qu on s'étonne pas qui casse un filtre a air en enbout affaire réglé et aucun perte de puissance juste des filtres a airs a changer de temps en temps
U should check out the integrated engineering manual timing belt tensioner for 1.8t engine
If you have the older 058 block (AEB), it works perfectly. The 058 is closely related to the older 8-valve engines like the ABA, so the manual tensioner is ideal for that application. If you have the 06A block (AWP, etc), stick with the automatic tensioner due to the different length of the 06A block. I have both engines. The manual tensioner is still going strong on the 058 block. The 06A resulted in timing belt failure and an expensive head repair which included replacing 8 valves.
If you have the 06A block - use the hydraulic tensioner. AVOID the manual tensioner at all costs - or it will cost you BIG time. I learned that the HARD way.
@@dantesinfernopurgatory7826 dantes inferno purgatory I have a 06A that is fully built (ie tuscan rods, both male bearings, arp head and main studs, all Ferrara valve train, ect) I have never had a problem with there manual tensioner. I dont see why the blocks being "diffrent size" would even matter. Along with me i know a few other fully built 1.8 or bored out to 2.0 runing it with no issues what so ever. No disrespect but it sounds like u didn't tension the belt correctly or u didnt listen to ie service interval to check tension. (every oil change)
@@dantesinfernopurgatory7826 Not to mention vw/audi knew the gas charged piston design was the weak link for 1.8 engine timing components. Hence why its successor 2.0 fsi is running this type of tensioner. Also are u sure u didnt get things backwards? I wasnt aware Integrated engineering offered the manual tensioner for the 058. From my knowledge they only offer and suggest to use on 06A.
Edit: i just checked they do offer it for 058 but its a diffrent part number.
1. The incident happened several years ago when IE first issued their kits. The culprit was a failed tensioner pulley.
2. I've been working on my own VW engines since 1981, and have been tensioning timing belts for several years. This was the first (and last) timing belt I had break on me. And my engines lasted 250K, 600K, 400K, 450K and 500K respectively.
3. >dantes inferno purgatory No disrespect but it sounds like u didn't tension the belt correctly or u didnt listen to ie service interval to check tension. (every oil change)
No disrespect, but been there, done that (again since 1981). To expect each and every kit to ship without defects is unrealistic, anyone with experience with parts over the years know that.
4. Thanks for your response, but based on the advice of many VW mechanics and enthusiasts I've known for years, I decided to stick with the hydraulic tensioner on my 06A engine, and continue to use the IE manual tensioner on my 058. If it works for your 06A, good for you. I wish you many good miles on your build.
@@dantesinfernopurgatory7826 Like i said no hate over here. And yea anyone who has dealt with parts counter knows a thing or two about wrong part or faulty part. But out of curiosity how did the faulty pulley cause the belt to break? I would expect loss of tension at that point? At first u said it dosent work on 06A blocks because diffrence in size of block. Which i dont understand why that would matter considering the tension is adjusted from pulley because its offset hole. But now u are saying its because faulty parts? The same thing could be said about the hydraulic tensioner with just a o-ring keeping all tension from being lost. So which is it faulty part or diffrent size block? I also hope all your builds prosper and go many miles. I respect your opinion and i do believe somthing caused a issue with ur previous build. But to say that u dont suggest running it due to your one issue is pretty crazy. I along with many others run it with no issue. Not to mention IE runs them on there crate race motors they build which i believe come with a warranty.
Please send me a link to the motor and transmission mounts you have!!!! This is a sick build
U think a tt 2007 with k03 could fit this..?🙄
Hello I have a 1.8t awp mk4 Jetta I’m gonna be putting in the gt28 the only thing that is holding me back is I can’t find a cold air intake can anyone tell me what kind of intake he is using
Ya hat else do u have done to make ur engine handle that turbo, I’m thinking bout doing this to my 1.8t
How did you plumb your n75 with the dual port wastegate ? I’m having a issue plumbing mine rn
Have u got a link to the downpipe u bought
How much did everything cost for the g28 ? I was gonna go k04 but I feel like that's to plain
I forgot how much everything was but it’s nearly the same as a k04 setup if you source out the parts. And that was my thoughts exactly, might as well upgrade to something bigger while you’re in there.
Where did u get the turbo from ?
After getting the gt28 did you wish you got a bigger turbo? Alot of forums talk about how they wished they got a gt 3071 because the 28 got slow fast
Yep I would jump on that same boat! But I got this turbo at a really cheap price, literally a quarter of the cost of a gt3071 so the experience was worth it.
Think its cool you replied!, appreciate the reply helped me make my decision going gt3071!
What is the space like and how easy was it to deal with? Do you think it would be good to go gt3071 or something bigger for the space? I’m not sure because I don’t want to have to pull the engine out for an install otherwise I’ll just end up sending it in for rods etc.
It was a bit difficult to work with especially bolting everything down. I had to crawl under the car to get the manifold bolts on. Definitely easier with the motor out but it can be done. It is just more time consuming. As for a bigger turbo, it probably wouldn't work out well since I had very little room sliding the gt28 onto the manifold. A top mount manifold may solve the issue.
I fit my 3071r just fine on the same manifold, pretty sure a gt35 feels not fit though.
Silly question but a diverter valve dumps excess boost right? But the wastegate dumps exhaust gas before it spools over the turbo turbine housing? Do they do the same thing in the long run though?
Does that mean I can keep my diverter valve as well as run an external wastegate, or can I only use a dv setup with an internal wastegate?
oTHTKo Slash DV and external wastegate aren’t related so you can use both. The DV dumps boost when you let off the throttle, purpose is to prevent all the boost traveling back to the turbo and cause surging. The wastegate is there to help control boost when you are on the throttle by opening up at a certain PSI.
@@VdubInParadise Thanks for clearing that up. I'm hoping to do a similar build on my leon 1.8t AUQ. Are you still using the factory boost control? I plan on running a 3582r at some point, would like to do my rods first though, and stage 2 clutch plus injectors and fuel pump. I'm currently running an oversized tip and 3" decat, want to do intercooler next and go stage 2 then big turbo :)
hi, do you used a restrictor for oil feed 0.9mm or 1mm? thanks in adavance
Did u use the stock ECM
hey i have a 1.8t jetta what all would i need to upgrade to the gt28?
Turbo, turbo lines, exhaust manifold, downpipe, injectors, intercooler, inlet pipe, 3” MAF housing and tune.
@@VdubInParadise and please sir, could you give us an estimate of how much it would be?, thanks
“You don’t want the belt breaking from all that power”
Too bad that belt sucks and is weaker than stock.
Eric Ver Linden Did you have a bad experience with this belt?
VDub In Paradise belt is junk
OEM belt is better then the gates racing belt the teeth strip off the gates no good
How did you tighten the exhaust manifold??? with what tool did you do that. I have trouble reaching there!
I used an offset box wrench. The bends were perfect enough to tighten the nuts around the manifold.
where did you buy the front mount?
Great content new subscriber here 🥂
Bro wen u upgrade ur turbo to gt28 did u change all ur line for coolant and oil line
god knows Yup. The k03 lines will not fit the gt28.
got links for downpipe etc?
How much you spent on the whole set cause I have 02 GTI that I want to do upgrades
About $2.5k in parts. Turbo and manifold I got used which saved me about $1.5k
Dude is working in $5 flip flops! Lol
Disgusting
Hawaii?? I see them scotts
Oh yup just saw the rest of your outfit definitely hawaii
How have you blocked off the internal waste gate? I'm planning a gt28 build but want external wastegate
I welded the actuator rod arm to the housing so it does not open.
I want to install a gt28r but it confuses me with the cutting and welding, how does that attach to the downpipe? lol
Checkout my GT28r part 1, It was to attach the downpipe and turbo using a vband. The downpipe had a different flange.
How much was the new turbo and the waste gate?
WhatJoshyDoes Tv The turbo I got with manifold used for $500. The wastegate is $240 brand new.
Hey good work. Listen maybe you can help me? 1.8t smells like rotten egg and goes into limp mode.???? Please and thanks.
Juan Quinones coolant? Temps high?
No everything is normal. Just the smell of eggs under boost , goes into limp mode aftet. No codes.
Rotten egg smell is usually to do with the cat
exhaust leak near, or before the catalytic converter. you're smelling a mix of burnt/unburnt fuel and exhaust emissions such as NOx (Nitrogen Oxide)
Why you take the waste gate off?
Or mb did you put it on after turbo?
My exhaust manifold has a external wastegate port which I decided to use.
I have the 2.0 5 speed but wanted to know.if the 1.8 turbo can be swapped in for the engine. Are the harnesses much different ?
Would be MUCH cheaper to get a 1.8t lol
I think the harness is different. But you can buy a 1.8t with harness in the junkyard for 300 bucks. On holiday could be less
who did the tuning on the ecu?
Eurodyne.
Must be nice to know how to weld
It’s not hard
Especially while wearing flip-flops :)
Say hello to major lag more like
Link to them turbo oil lines?
ebay.to/2BUByZL
Can you put that turbo on a audi a4?
Yes, just need to make sure you get the longitudinal hardware setup. My engine is transverse.
What maked the Ko4 different?
K04's have a slightly larger intake ( a few millimeters more), slightly more efficient blades and therefore produce a smudge more power, but really not that much more.
Xs power actually makes a k04-001XL turbo that uses a 2 inch inlet with a 50mm compressor wheel. Not sure the inducer and exducer specs but it was dynoed to 266 hp at 8600 ft above sea level on 89 octane. If the proper fueling is applied at sea level on 91 with bigger compressor piping and a high flow intake manifold and a higher flow exhaust manifold im pretty sure you can hit 300 hp on 24 psi. And it fits the stock configuration. Plus less weight in the car while using a bigger side mount intercooler. And less modifications because everything bolts right up. This will keep the stock internals at or below 300 hp and much more reliable as a daily driver.
tune it now
what size injectors are you running?
Did the turbo bolt up to the stock manifold
IsaiahB48 Nope. Had to buy a t25 manifold.