I just ran my MK4 TDI on 100% wmo for 1000Km, very hazy at idle only, no haze off idle and ran the same as pure diesel, full power and fuel mileage. I think when your running a pre cup idi engine they have more of a tendency to coke up. With direct injection you can do a few hot pulls and get the egt up to clean things up IMO.
You are likely right. I don't have long term experience other than short trips on a direct injected engine. Soon though... my bus has a pair of 120 gallon tanks sitting here waiting for it.
Hey there notsograndgarage and Rockwood. Just curious if running wmo on a 2006 tdi will work? I do plan on using a centrifuge. Do you guys think i will need 2 tanks or can i get by makin 80%wmo and 20gas. And then mix it 50 50 with diesel fuel.
How on earth? I run mk4 1.9tdi AGR with both wmo and fresh hydraulic oil. more than 40% and it smokes badly and loses power. mixed with petrol and kerosene
Great update, looks like double tanks.:) I was hoping it would run that on a single, but not to be. I'm soon swapping to a double tank on my Detroit before the snow falls. Thanks for the update.:)
I would suggest you to ditch the diesel and blend with gasoline instead. 10% diesel reduces the viscosity by 1/3 and 10% gasoline by 1/2. I run 25% E10 gasoline and it works well. My findings this far is that cleaning out the tank before starting doing this is a good idea. I clogged filters until I took down the tank and cleaned it out and my car had only run on pump diesel before. The oil additives that keep an engine clean also cleans the tank and the lines and that will plug up fuel filters. I also had issues with that the pump only manage to draw one tank of fuel through a new filter and then the pump started to starve on fuel with all kinds of symptoms and ultimately not starting the engine. The filters was no where close to clogged and I found out that the fuel lifter pump is really weak, so I installed a small electric suction lift pump that generates 0,3 bars of pressure right before the fuel filter and that made a massive improvement. The car is easier to start, has a lot more power and the hazing is much less. So i think that a starving pump can generate hazing issues and my theory is that a starving pump might effect the injection timing. I built a water injection system after watching one of your videos and that seem to work well. I inject 1dl/min straight into the manifold. The first nozzle i made put out 2,5dl/min but that quenched the combustion after a while so I found out that less spray for longer works better. I typically spray for 3-4 km at crusing speed. Using a cheap carbon monoxide meter that you can find on Amazon or eBay is a great way to determine the fouling of the injector tips. My engine lies around 170 ppm with pump diesel and around 230-250ppm with 25/75 gasoline and clean injector tips. I found out that if I run the car through all gears and rev it a bit higher than what is comfortably with an old diesel the Co goes down from 4-500ppm to 230-250ppm. 7-900ppm is really fouled injectors. So my hope is that some hard runs every longer trips and some water injection will keep the fouling away. I will pull the injectors soon to see if this works but it seem to do a lot for the hazing. I barely have any haze anymore when the engine is warm. I found your channel and your testing very helpful. Keep it up and if it is to any help for you I gladly keep sharing my findings.
I currently do thin with gasoline. My blend is W90 - 90% oil to 10% gasoline.... and in a single tank, I will run that at a 50/50 ratio with diesel. I pushed the limits up a bit and ran into issues. Check my playlist..... watch my other videos on it and you'll see what I currently do in detail. Interesting idea on the CO meter. Pretty clever idea. I have heard fuel pressure may be an issue. What pump are you using?
@@NotSoGrandGarage The Co measurements is done at the exhaust outlet and at idle. I'm thinking about mounting a in car Co reading meter to do some better monitoring. If there is some cheap parts. I haven't looked for it yet.
@@NotSoGrandGarage I have tried to post a link to what pump I'm using twice but it won't work for some reason. It is a black plastic membrane pump big as a soda soda can. 0.3 bars of pressuse. You can probably find it if you google around some. Regarding the cokeing of the injector tips or rather the sealing washers. I've got an idea lately that it might not have that much to do with running on oil but more so shutting the engine off on oil. I do think that atomizaton and burn are quite good since I have not found any coke on other places like the glowplugs, or prechambers or even the exhaust. I do think the problem lies in that the injectors give of a small drop of oil after shutdown that bakes into the coke residue when the engine is nice and hot and thats why this is not seen in a dual tank setup even though running on straight diesel is very small compaired to that of oil. And that is also why water injection does not seem to solve this problem as it happens after shut down. At least not from my findings. One potential solution to this that I'm aiming to try is to rev the engine and shut it off at about 3000rpm hopeing that the extra cykles without fuel supply will make the lines to the injectors pressureless so no drops will form. What do you think about this? And have the water injection worked as intended for you?
I have a 2002 alh jettta. Adding the newer in tank lift pump was a game changer . The car has so much power pushing fuel to the original lift pump. Current ran 70 oil/ 30 stale gas single tank . Then switch back to diesel and cleaner after 1000 miles. Very excited about a 2 tank system in the near future but diesel is cheap/ er now
I’m currently running 10 percent diesel, 20 percent gas and 70 percent oil with a one micron heated fuel filter head . I’m adding in an aem water meth injection kit at the end of the month. So far I’ve got about 900 miles on my blend and no problems. I figure if the injectors start to coke up eventually I’ll pop them out and throw them in a sonic bath
What engine are you running that blend in? No excess smoke/haze? Good deal! Yeah when issues come up, they can be easy to fix but wanted to convey that problems do happen from time to time.
I’m running a 97 7.3l with stage 1.5 injectors, upgraded turbo and a ts programming, no problems yet, I’ve seen a very slight haze on cooler mornings when warming up the engine. No more smoke other than what I’d consider normal running down the road . Now I do filter my finish tank when refueling in case the fuge missed anything. I can understand conveying the warning
@@nathanielhuff8909 makes me wonder of it's a DI vs IDI issue. Cleaning injectors with heavy throttle ona DI engine is very doable and maintainable. On my IDI Ford, I'm running W90 on dual tanks and it loves it. Running it on a single tank over 50%... not so much. Lol. Sounds like you've got a system down and are willing to handle issues when they come up.
Yeah so far it’s going great for me, I’m planning to start making biofuel out wvo next for warm up purposes. IDi’s are tough engines. My power stroke will definitely blow some carbon out when I goose it
I sorta ran into the same issues a few years ago going above the 50/50 margin on a single tank system. Plus I was only filtering the WVO and not 'fuging it. Seriously thinking about getting back into the alternative fuel after abandoning it for a few years. a 'fuge is one of the first things to purchase.
Tryed running my w123 300d on a single tank to. Good if you drive a lot off highway. Doesn't like idling amd driving in citys.... Going for a 2 tank sytem now
Yup... Idling for any length of time causes issues. I got greedy and went to 70% which my drive has some stop/go. I'll get this one back on the road before too long though. Have everything here but time. Lol
I have a lot of waste oil but I bought a cone bottom tank to let junk setting to bottle drain off heat oil up let sit over winter drain then I do a 10, 5, .5 micron filtering and running 100% waste oil never any probs been doing for 10 years
Some people get away with it... many don't. I don't know why. With that said, what kind of filters are you running? What are you powering with it? 100% oil in a single tank? How much haze/smoke are you getting? How easy is it to start in the mornings? Are you able to start it without starting fluid?
@@NotSoGrandGarage I run it in my 1950 cat dozer to a zero turn 01 Cummins 5.9. 05 , 5.9 and 07 6.7 starts with no issues no starting fluid no hazing better mpg increased my compression on the rings. Winter I plug the oil pan in and no problems even with no plug. I bought my filters in a bulk from filters.come and when I want quick fuel I have a few filter that is 3 stage in one.. and my fluids are all motor oil hydraulic fluid gear oil tranny fluid. Def no cooking oil. Bc normal fuel filter crap is like maybe 15 microns injectors are much much smaller. I get some pretty nasty fluid
@@NotSoGrandGarage where you able to get your injectors cleaned yet I only seen haze once on my buddies car but his injectors was nasty from someone previous not cleaning oil just dumping it in straight
Id love to see results from another injector pop test/visual inspection If you are getting solids in the vehicle filters / blocking injectors would that mean that the centrifuge is not enough of a tool to process the waste oil? Or needs its settings adjusting? Im watching you and cutteruprob very closely with a view of sorting my vehicle fuel situation
The solids are from the tank... not the fuel. The tank was disgusting from the previous owners veggie oil experiments. The solids are being caught by the screen mesh pre-filter. Definitely not an issue with the fuel itself or the centrifuge.
It's always good if you care about the engine to do a few tanks of your Magic Mix then one or two tanks of regular to flush it out so to speak then back to the Magic Mix to save money
Or run dual tanks and do this on a daily basis. One of the big reasons I promote dual tank systems. Any short trips are on diesel... warm up and shut down are on diesel.... so you are effectively doing this every day.
I've been doing this for a long time most people like to run their oil through the centrifuge way too fast I would do no more than one gallon per hour if you want to get the oil clean
I run my setup ~ 4gph. Could likely slow it down but haven't had any issues with getting the oil clean at this rate. Could I possibly pull more out at a slower speed? Sure. I've thought about changing the plumbing on my setup to be able to run batches multiple times for giggles to see how much I pull out of the bowl after a second pass. Maybe in the future...
A few years ago, there was a lot of interest in Stirling Engines and Steam Engines. Its a shame they never took off because these engines and black diesel seem like a match made in Heaven. With external combustion you don't worry as much about purity.
love the shirt, just got back from a 900+ mile trip on the 6bt swapped dual tank f250 i just finished. ran flawlessly, minimal haze on the blend. I tried approx. 10% old gas ( was mixed for an old outboard motor so it had some oil in in already) but i didnt have any metering devices so i didnt know how much i had in the tank, just had to guess. but the 6bt took it well, thanks for all your help in this. I am about to get a 17gal boat tank for my mk4 vw golf to put dual tanks. have some 3 way valves at 3/8 and 5/16 from the cummins. I got them before i got the 1/2" on your advice, may use them as the 1.9 needs a lot less fuel than the 5.9.
Yeah I tried 70/30 in my 6bt, single tank and it ran ok for a few days and after that on a trip town I noticed I was leaving a 30 foot stream of haze out the tailpipe behind me. Dual tanks seem to be a must have for running richer blends. I assume the worst of the coking happens when you start the engine cold and when you shut down and the injectors are still warm?
I ran 80wmo/20G, in '01 Jetta TDI, I settled it and filtered it through filter elements only, and used a heated inline heater vegi therm just before the inj pump. After maybe 4 tank or 4 months or so, it did start smoking bad, like you explained in the video, really bad, like embarassing, and not good, i couldnt continue, it was attracting to much attention. So I cleaned the tank out from above, tank was clean, then ran diesel only, and let some ATF sit in the inj pump over night. And Ran diesel cleaner in the tank with diesel. It did get alot better. I would think the IDI would run wmo better and easy no problem, but not so? I have heard to not run wmo on anything with a dpf, And I question if the tdi does have a diesel particulate filter. It has a particulate filter honey comb looking stuff in it, just after the turbo, and im assuming that is it. How can we run idi diesels on wmo? My trucks seem to not mind it as much, but I havent run as much wmo through them.
So in '01, that would have a catalytic converter and it would probably be wise to remove it for running alternative fuels. I think a dual tank setup would solve a lot of the issues we both had. My IDI in my truck drinks it no problem and has for years.
@@NotSoGrandGarage What does the dual tank solve? warming up and shutting off on diesel? is that the coking problem? Yes I have two idi, chevy 93 6.5 and 91 idi ford 7.3, the chevy seemed to not mind it, no while driving, maybe a bit more on start up. Ive heard the stanadyne pumps handle it just fine. Wonder if the bosch ve pumps should handle it too just fine? My tdi didnt like it, I may not go that route again with tdi, but would like to if possible.
@@user-lq5jn5sz1w dual tanks let's you start up, warm up, and shut down on diesel. Easier starting... Oil not getting baked on the nozzles on shutdown... Oil takes heat to burn clean. Running oil on short drives... Cold engine .. it leads to issues.
If you run a dual tank, when you switch to the WMO tank where does the overflow from the injectors too? Back to the stock tank or do you have to run dual returns, one for each tank?
I'm using heat to thin the mix pre centrifuge. It's heated to 180+. I'm not heating a gasoline mixed blend. Don't want evaporation issues or the added potential for fire.
could you do me a favor please..... I no longer have an SD nearby.... besides had my dieselized 404 Unimog the longest... and it's lay out had the 617 sitting wayyyyyy different. Well now I have a Jeep with the 617 turbo..... and the fella who installed it put it at an pretty good down slope toward the rear.... soooooo my dip stick wont show proper. Can you let me know what approx angle your engine sits? is it horizontal.???. just slight down slope?? this will help me know what angle to park my jeep to check oil on dip stick properly. mucho thanks in advance. PS- if you have not done so.... change your engine mounts..... maybe engine shocks too. WIll help reduce wear and tear on sooooooooooo sooooo many other components. bad engine mounts likely is what let it rattle enough to break the air cleaner mounts etc. PS2.... love the paint job.
It probably sludged up your injectors, it would likely be fine with a tank of diesel with a bottle of diesel Kleen every other week. Are your valves adjusted?
Valves are adjusted regularly. I'd say the prechambers are coked up more so than the injectors themselves. I'll pull them one of these days and get it cleaned up.
So I had haze issues with my van it's an Isuzu 1.7td Idi engine. For years I ran all sorts on veggie mix same as the van. Too heavy with waste oil mix and a nightmare to start terrible haze and bad mpg. I pulled the feed line off the pump and put it into a 5 litre oil container with injector cleaner, engine oil and atf. My injectors came back around thankfully and only on 1202 atm. Going to put second tank in for waste oil like yourself. Already have the fuel heater inline. When up to temperature and swapped to waste oil mix, are your engines happy? Never did it this way before but veggie too expensive now too
@@ohnoitisnt twin tank set up would be the way forward on a 16v they're known moreso for clogging injectors. I've built a 16v with old style cable pump for a friend there and hoping to do the same to an engine of mine then
On my IDIs, they run as if on pump diesel when done this way. When out on the road on long trips, I occasionally will switch back to diesel for a 20 miles or so and lean on it pretty hard just to keep things clean. Start up and shut down on diesel... no issues.
hey :) it's said that those old diesel mercedes engines runs on almost anything.. however these om616 and om617A orN/A does not prefer any other fuel than diesel. these are realy the worst engines to play with alternatively fuel.. as my MB w123 E240D (om616) in cold wintertime almost never starts normaly without heating the regular dieselfuel before injection pump, or using adds in the diesel as the diesel in the wintertime gets to thick i had to add a huge amout of parafin/kerosene to mix the diesel so the pump and injectors could work more easy during coldstart. this was an typical and well known problem with al those engines. However i prefer therefore the well known OM60X engines and mostly the older 601-603A or N/A. these engines does not have any problem of using pure used cooking oil without any addons only one time filtered. but as we hawe a colder climate i only use cooking oil during summertime. However during wintertime i got an option using used engine oil or transmission oil mixed with 30% diesel fuel. I never had any struggle with these fuels i use with my om60x engines. However my om 616 (240D) become a nightmare even just thinking about adding a small amunt of non used 2 stroke engine oil in it... these 616 and 617 is not the easyest engines to play around with. hey are only reliable as long as they remains orginal and with diesel fuel only... i've broke a few of these engines before.... 😅😅😅 in al i highly recommend to get urself an MB OM601-603 engine for play with alternatively fuel :) i also happend to build a OM601 STD with a 170hp and over 400NM of torqe even on alternatively fuels as spill oil :D and yes ! the OM60x family ar more reliable in any way than these 616 and 617 :)
I've got a whole fleet... 616s... 617s... Cummins... IDIs... DTs... They all drink oil in some fashion. This 617 actually does really well on 50/50 blends in a single tank but I got greedy and tried 70%. Be sure to check out the rest of the playlist. Thanks for watching and thanks for the input.
Can you use a bigger % of used oil and the remaining as petrol and not diesel? Just to match the same viscosity as 50/50 used motor oil/diesel but with the ability to use more of the used motor oil at the same time you buy less new fuel? I'm thinking the petrol would ease the entrance of WMO in the engine to be ignited/exploded/oxidized due to compression, and the petrol would ignore after, when temperatura is high enough so petrol would self-ignite
Possibly. The limit for gasoline is roughly 30% based on what most people say. Above that can cause issues. If it had dual tanks amd the ability to start and shut down on diesel, I'd run 90% oil and 10% gasoline with no diesel in one tank... amd straight diesel in another.
Thanks for the video bro, I swapped a 617NA into a rodeo and it's got some extreme blow by. Was planning to make it a 1 tank wvo burner but now I'm hoping the rings are stick and water injection will clean it up. Was supposed to be a 50k engine, i installed a catch can,adjusted the valve and ran 2 cans of diesel purge. Put about 5 miles on it so far but i have a couple bugs with the serpentine conversion to work out. Can you give me any advice? Thanks brother!
Order a quart of Kano Labs Kreen. Pull the injectors... put a few ounces down each hole and let it sit for 24 hours. Rotate the engine by hand a 1/4 rotation... add a few ounces... repeat the process until the quart is empty.... let it sit for a few days after. Spin it over with the starter and then put the injectors back in it. Get it running and let it run at an idle for 10-20 minutes. Change the oil and then go beat on it. See if the blowby improves. If not, rings or bores are done. If it starts without starting fluid and doesn't drink oil... I wouldn't worry too much about it.
@NotSoGrandGarage did you ever get the suspension issue fixed? I'm having crazy smoking at idle issues with my 2000 ALH vw tdi...when driving down the road it's actually clear like normal. But idling is embarrassing and I'm trying to get it cleaned back out and then not go past 40-50 percent wmo if it will run that way without smoking at idle
I have a plan to build a small distilling unit for waste oil. Most of them would kill your electric bill but if your not in a hurry, maybe a smaller unit set up properly with some interesting electrical components could give you a consistent but small flow of distilled oil. It seems this would be the best option if you want to eliminate most of the contaminants in the fuel. I want to build it to run off of solar so as to not have to pay so much for the energy to produce the fuel. I've already done a few tests and I'll have to say, I'm still on the fence about it. I don't give up easily so it may take me a while to figure it out but I will document it when I do. What do you think?
Distillation is definitely viable... but I'd heat the system with fire... wood heat.. like a boiler not exposing the unit to direct fire... or wood gas that could be controlled.
Im curious so far what is best with minimal fancyness. before you build a distiller..... try the method of cleaning the WMO with acid to make the additives drop out. You can bring it back to non acidic once you pull the nasty out of the bottom by then using a base to neutralize what ever PH you are sitting at. battery acid is most common.. read some research where good not vinegar Acidic acid works too yet less caustic concerns. New experements are being done with something like a biodiesel titration methold to get the nastys out. Honestly if one did any of the above BEFORE distilling you would get a purer product of diesel anyway.
@@NotSoGrandGarage the concern is you need to get to temp FAST then hold the temp for max production. Hard to do with fire. yet...... with fire you can return the un wanted first set of distillates back to the fire to help....... hmmmm.. so which ends up better in dollar per production..... 👀 Im wracking my brain on hybrid..... trying to figure out how to electric heat on sides to heat vessel somehow..... leaving below to also use fire. Open to ideas
@@coachgeo I have seen where one guy was using absorbents to clean up the diesel after it had been distilled but I will have to do more research for sure. I want to build it because I want this unit for more than just oil. This will allow for some hands on experience and to test a few theories I have floating in my brain. Currently I am only storing oil for future use.
@@NotSoGrandGarage If you heat a much smaller surface area and use less amounts of oil, I believe I can accomplish a high heat low output device that can be left running 24/7. I plan on some automation to keep from blowing things up for sure. Slow and steady like a drip drip of a leaky faucet.
@@NotSoGrandGarage it's funny the people I do my side job for like brush cutting and driveways always why don't u just fill up at the station I don't think they realise I wouldn't do my side work if I had to pay pump prices id rather just carry my 15 gallon rolly can and fill the tractor up
@@NotSoGrandGarage I had doubled my prices but people still call me bc the pros prices are still way higher then mine but I just do that stuff bc it's fun to me and it makes the tractor payment if I can't make any money I turn jobs down unless it's like a person in need or something I can write off
Same for me turning wrenches. I'm cheap compared to most shops but I have no overhead costs so I can afford to be cheap and still make good money if that makes sense. Shops around me are 3-4x my rate now.
Hey! I am looking to get a 250D 1993 automatic 113hp. do you thing it would run ok on black diesel? I filter down to 0.2micron and blend with 15% petrol
I have a '21 Ram 2500 6.7 diesel. I also have a Wolverine Technologies centrifuge, plumbed from a 55gal. drum with a band heater. I used to clean WMO for use in my multifuel deuce and a half, that I thinned with kerosene. Does anyone have any insight into using cleaned WMO in a modern diesel? I'm told my centrifuge (running about 1 gal. per hour) cleans WMO down to .01 microns. My truck's diesel fuel filter is an 8 micron filter. I would think that if I blend to proper viscosity, my truck should burn my WMO without damaging my engine. Any thoughts on this? Thanks for the vids you're making. I'm hoping to get back into this after having sold my deuce about ten years ago.
I've not got any experience with it but with the high working pressures and super tight tolerances... its a gamble. Even a bigger gamble considering replacement part costs. I've heard of some running the 6.0 powerstroke and the dmax on oil but I've never messed with it.
@@NotSoGrandGarage Thanks for the reply, mate. Have you ever had your cleaned WMO tested through CAT or similar place, just to see what kind of particulates/ solids and metals are in it?
@@gadsdenconsulting7126 no but planning on it. I've got some review videos and some back to back comparison videos of different centrifuges upcoming and I'm considering sending samples of each to Blackstone labs.
I have a 3 cylinder diesel tractor that I bought new and I will run 1 gallon of used motor oil to 5 gallons of fresh diesel fuel. It starts right up and runs perfect without issue. My question is will this eventually hurt the engine long term?
Thanks for the quick reply, I do not clean the oil at all. All I do is put 1 gallon of used motor oil to 5 gallons of diesel fuel straight in the tank. I just figured the fuel filter would catch particles or heavy sludge. Am I wrong about this?
@@DP-ke3vf Yes. Check out any of my batching videos or small batch tests. Your average oil filter is 20-30 micron nominal rated... meaning it catches 50% of that particulate size at best. Most fuel filters are around 10-15 micron nominal. Wear metals and such can be submicronic. At minimum, I'd pick up a 1 micron bag filter and dump your oil through it a couple of times. It's messy... but it's better than nothing. The clearances in injectors and the injection pump are much tighter than bearing clearances inside an engine.
My blend is ~85% oil... ~15% gasoline... and then that is roughly 50/50 to diesel in the tank. May step up to ~20% gasoline on my next batch for giggles.
Ditto on the shirt. Had a notion but glad😬 to confirm. Do you have a video already made on the dual tank setup for beginners? Does your wife participate in the dual tank setups? My wife is usually preoccupied wife our many kids and I’m not sure if that setup would be ideal for her. I do most of the longer trips especially with the family in our 15 passenger diesel van. Thank you for the videos again.
Glad you had the notion... none of this matters much at all if we don't know where we're going when our time comes. I do have a video that explains the dual tank setup and plumbing... and I'm currently putting a video together that shows how it's done as I'm plumbing the 2nd tank on our bus. Appreciate you watching!
you spoke fast in begging of your video. I did not get what your blending with.. I got the WMO.... but not sure what the other was..... diesel... petrol? I think diesel.... going by your statement diesel prices where going up and you started fudging up higher WMO content.
That is because I'm running a single tank and don't run my fuel straight in the Benz. 50/50 was my original mix of my fuel to diesel... but increased it to 70+% my fuel to diesel.
@@NotSoGrandGarage I've heard turbo diesels and direct injection do the best with carbon resistance on black diesel. Do you have any opinion on the matter?
@@DrYosh2 the best engine I've ever ran on black diesel is the 7.3 IDI ford.. with a turbo kit. Once it's running and at temp, it just doesn't seem to care what's in the tank. I've had coking issues with every direct injected engine I've ran... but many claim they don't so not sure what to think there.
@@NotSoGrandGarageI'm seeing widely varying info on that topic too. I have a Chinese Yanmar L100 clone I'm building a generator out of and i have been running totally unfiltered WMO. Just to see what would happen. It has started right up every time down to 28° without issues. Thats one of my low risk guinea pigs. My shop torpedo heater is another that has worked on 80/20 so far.
@@DrYosh2 SKIP the torpedo heater. It may run on it... but being unvented... you're breathing all of that in and used oil contains some nasty stuff... especially un-processed used oil. The little clone engines are slick though and I'm planning on ordering one for some testing here soon.
Here's what i found out about my diesels. there the same injectors as yours.. i haven't made a video of my sd22 diesel pickup, but i put these injectors in it and it fixed alot th-cam.com/video/9n2FMWK5MFw/w-d-xo.html
Hello I have a 1987 300d turbo diesel with the om603 3.0L It only has 165k miles and runs strong. With no blow by. Do you thing 25% Mix would be ok. I've thought about running mix fuel in it but also considered selling it and buying a vw to restore. But I hate to sell it because the body and interior are nice and everything works. Hard to decide.
I just ran my MK4 TDI on 100% wmo for 1000Km, very hazy at idle only, no haze off idle and ran the same as pure diesel, full power and fuel mileage. I think when your running a pre cup idi engine they have more of a tendency to coke up. With direct injection you can do a few hot pulls and get the egt up to clean things up IMO.
You are likely right. I don't have long term experience other than short trips on a direct injected engine. Soon though... my bus has a pair of 120 gallon tanks sitting here waiting for it.
Hey there notsograndgarage and Rockwood. Just curious if running wmo on a 2006 tdi will work? I do plan on using a centrifuge. Do you guys think i will need 2 tanks or can i get by makin 80%wmo and 20gas. And then mix it 50 50 with diesel fuel.
What's your mpg on the tdi?
How on earth? I run mk4 1.9tdi AGR with both wmo and fresh hydraulic oil. more than 40% and it smokes badly and loses power. mixed with petrol and kerosene
Great update, looks like double tanks.:) I was hoping it would run that on a single, but not to be. I'm soon swapping to a double tank on my Detroit before the snow falls. Thanks for the update.:)
Appreciate you watching. Can't wait to see the updates on the Detroit. Are you on the fb groups?
I would suggest you to ditch the diesel and blend with gasoline instead. 10% diesel reduces the viscosity by 1/3 and 10% gasoline by 1/2. I run 25% E10 gasoline and it works well.
My findings this far is that cleaning out the tank before starting doing this is a good idea. I clogged filters until I took down the tank and cleaned it out and my car had only run on pump diesel before. The oil additives that keep an engine clean also cleans the tank and the lines and that will plug up fuel filters.
I also had issues with that the pump only manage to draw one tank of fuel through a new filter and then the pump started to starve on fuel with all kinds of symptoms and ultimately not starting the engine. The filters was no where close to clogged and I found out that the fuel lifter pump is really weak, so I installed a small electric suction lift pump that generates 0,3 bars of pressure right before the fuel filter and that made a massive improvement. The car is easier to start, has a lot more power and the hazing is much less. So i think that a starving pump can generate hazing issues and my theory is that a starving pump might effect the injection timing.
I built a water injection system after watching one of your videos and that seem to work well. I inject 1dl/min straight into the manifold. The first nozzle i made put out 2,5dl/min but that quenched the combustion after a while so I found out that less spray for longer works better. I typically spray for 3-4 km at crusing speed. Using a cheap carbon monoxide meter that you can find on Amazon or eBay is a great way to determine the fouling of the injector tips. My engine lies around 170 ppm with pump diesel and around 230-250ppm with 25/75 gasoline and clean injector tips. I found out that if I run the car through all gears and rev it a bit higher than what is comfortably with an old diesel the Co goes down from 4-500ppm to 230-250ppm. 7-900ppm is really fouled injectors. So my hope is that some hard runs every longer trips and some water injection will keep the fouling away. I will pull the injectors soon to see if this works but it seem to do a lot for the hazing. I barely have any haze anymore when the engine is warm.
I found your channel and your testing very helpful. Keep it up and if it is to any help for you I gladly keep sharing my findings.
I currently do thin with gasoline. My blend is W90 - 90% oil to 10% gasoline.... and in a single tank, I will run that at a 50/50 ratio with diesel. I pushed the limits up a bit and ran into issues. Check my playlist..... watch my other videos on it and you'll see what I currently do in detail.
Interesting idea on the CO meter. Pretty clever idea.
I have heard fuel pressure may be an issue. What pump are you using?
@@NotSoGrandGarage The Co measurements is done at the exhaust outlet and at idle. I'm thinking about mounting a in car Co reading meter to do some better monitoring. If there is some cheap parts. I haven't looked for it yet.
@@NotSoGrandGarage I have tried to post a link to what pump I'm using twice but it won't work for some reason. It is a black plastic membrane pump big as a soda soda can. 0.3 bars of pressuse. You can probably find it if you google around some.
Regarding the cokeing of the injector tips or rather the sealing washers. I've got an idea lately that it might not have that much to do with running on oil but more so shutting the engine off on oil. I do think that atomizaton and burn are quite good since I have not found any coke on other places like the glowplugs, or prechambers or even the exhaust. I do think the problem lies in that the injectors give of a small drop of oil after shutdown that bakes into the coke residue when the engine is nice and hot and thats why this is not seen in a dual tank setup even though running on straight diesel is very small compaired to that of oil. And that is also why water injection does not seem to solve this problem as it happens after shut down. At least not from my findings. One potential solution to this that I'm aiming to try is to rev the engine and shut it off at about 3000rpm hopeing that the extra cykles without fuel supply will make the lines to the injectors pressureless so no drops will form.
What do you think about this? And have the water injection worked as intended for you?
I have a 2002 alh jettta. Adding the newer in tank lift pump was a game changer . The car has so much power pushing fuel to the original lift pump. Current ran 70 oil/ 30 stale gas single tank . Then switch back to diesel and cleaner after 1000 miles.
Very excited about a 2 tank system in the near future but diesel is cheap/ er now
I thought 25% would be way too much? I was told 15 to 20 maximum. But if you say it works then that's excellent 👍
I’m currently running 10 percent diesel, 20 percent gas and 70 percent oil with a one micron heated fuel filter head . I’m adding in an aem water meth injection kit at the end of the month. So far I’ve got about 900 miles on my blend and no problems. I figure if the injectors start to coke up eventually I’ll pop them out and throw them in a sonic bath
What engine are you running that blend in? No excess smoke/haze? Good deal! Yeah when issues come up, they can be easy to fix but wanted to convey that problems do happen from time to time.
I’m running a 97 7.3l with stage 1.5 injectors, upgraded turbo and a ts programming, no problems yet, I’ve seen a very slight haze on cooler mornings when warming up the engine. No more smoke other than what I’d consider normal running down the road . Now I do filter my finish tank when refueling in case the fuge missed anything. I can understand conveying the warning
@@nathanielhuff8909 makes me wonder of it's a DI vs IDI issue. Cleaning injectors with heavy throttle ona DI engine is very doable and maintainable. On my IDI Ford, I'm running W90 on dual tanks and it loves it. Running it on a single tank over 50%... not so much. Lol. Sounds like you've got a system down and are willing to handle issues when they come up.
Yeah so far it’s going great for me, I’m planning to start making biofuel out wvo next for warm up purposes. IDi’s are tough engines. My power stroke will definitely blow some carbon out when I goose it
I sorta ran into the same issues a few years ago going above the 50/50 margin on a single tank system. Plus I was only filtering the WVO and not 'fuging it.
Seriously thinking about getting back into the alternative fuel after abandoning it for a few years. a 'fuge is one of the first things to purchase.
I'd say higher fuel prices are here to stay for a good while..... not a bad idea to get back into it or at least have the ability to if needed.
What is a " 'fuge"? Is it some dewatering device?
@@josebotelho427 short for centrifuge. It not only removes water but submicronic particulate.
Tryed running my w123 300d on a single tank to. Good if you drive a lot off highway. Doesn't like idling amd driving in citys.... Going for a 2 tank sytem now
Yup... Idling for any length of time causes issues. I got greedy and went to 70% which my drive has some stop/go. I'll get this one back on the road before too long though. Have everything here but time. Lol
Pull the exhaust off the back of the turbo and check the veins and make sure they're not coaked
I'll check it out at some point.
Nice vid.
I run ml 270 cdi on wmo 70:30 ratio - same problem on idle.
Nissan navara 2.5 dci - no smoke at all.
Interesting isn't it? Some engines love it... some not so much.
you are running common rail diesels with waste oil?
@@Cheese_1337 I'm not but I know of several that are with good results.
I have a lot of waste oil but I bought a cone bottom tank to let junk setting to bottle drain off heat oil up let sit over winter drain then I do a 10, 5, .5 micron filtering and running 100% waste oil never any probs been doing for 10 years
Some people get away with it... many don't. I don't know why. With that said, what kind of filters are you running? What are you powering with it? 100% oil in a single tank? How much haze/smoke are you getting? How easy is it to start in the mornings? Are you able to start it without starting fluid?
@@NotSoGrandGarage I run it in my 1950 cat dozer to a zero turn 01 Cummins 5.9. 05 , 5.9 and 07 6.7 starts with no issues no starting fluid no hazing better mpg increased my compression on the rings. Winter I plug the oil pan in and no problems even with no plug. I bought my filters in a bulk from filters.come and when I want quick fuel I have a few filter that is 3 stage in one.. and my fluids are all motor oil hydraulic fluid gear oil tranny fluid. Def no cooking oil. Bc normal fuel filter crap is like maybe 15 microns injectors are much much smaller. I get some pretty nasty fluid
@@dakotak8437 if it works for you... good deal. Just hasn't been my experience with it. Glad it's working for you though. Sounds simple.
@@NotSoGrandGarage where you able to get your injectors cleaned yet I only seen haze once on my buddies car but his injectors was nasty from someone previous not cleaning oil just dumping it in straight
@@dakotak8437 Nope. Haven't had time. Trying to get my bus situated for vacation here soon.
Id love to see results from another injector pop test/visual inspection
If you are getting solids in the vehicle filters / blocking injectors would that mean that the centrifuge is not enough of a tool to process the waste oil? Or needs its settings adjusting?
Im watching you and cutteruprob very closely with a view of sorting my vehicle fuel situation
The solids are from the tank... not the fuel. The tank was disgusting from the previous owners veggie oil experiments. The solids are being caught by the screen mesh pre-filter. Definitely not an issue with the fuel itself or the centrifuge.
It's always good if you care about the engine to do a few tanks of your Magic Mix then one or two tanks of regular to flush it out so to speak then back to the Magic Mix to save money
Or run dual tanks and do this on a daily basis. One of the big reasons I promote dual tank systems. Any short trips are on diesel... warm up and shut down are on diesel.... so you are effectively doing this every day.
I've been doing this for a long time most people like to run their oil through the centrifuge way too fast I would do no more than one gallon per hour if you want to get the oil clean
I run my setup ~ 4gph. Could likely slow it down but haven't had any issues with getting the oil clean at this rate. Could I possibly pull more out at a slower speed? Sure. I've thought about changing the plumbing on my setup to be able to run batches multiple times for giggles to see how much I pull out of the bowl after a second pass. Maybe in the future...
How have you overcome the smoking at idle issue?
A few years ago, there was a lot of interest in Stirling Engines and Steam Engines. Its a shame they never took off because these engines and black diesel seem like a match made in Heaven. With external combustion you don't worry as much about purity.
Yup. I looked into them quite a bit. For the most part, I think they've all but been banned here due to emissions nonsense
love the shirt, just got back from a 900+ mile trip on the 6bt swapped dual tank f250 i just finished. ran flawlessly, minimal haze on the blend. I tried approx. 10% old gas ( was mixed for an old outboard motor so it had some oil in in already) but i didnt have any metering devices so i didnt know how much i had in the tank, just had to guess. but the 6bt took it well, thanks for all your help in this. I am about to get a 17gal boat tank for my mk4 vw golf to put dual tanks. have some 3 way valves at 3/8 and 5/16 from the cummins. I got them before i got the 1/2" on your advice, may use them as the 1.9 needs a lot less fuel than the 5.9.
Good deal bud! Sounds like a solid setup. Appreciate it.
Love the shirt aswell
Yeah I tried 70/30 in my 6bt, single tank and it ran ok for a few days and after that on a trip town I noticed I was leaving a 30 foot stream of haze out the tailpipe behind me.
Dual tanks seem to be a must have for running richer blends.
I assume the worst of the coking happens when you start the engine cold and when you shut down and the injectors are still warm?
Cold starts and short drives. Your experience matches mine on my Cummins and the 617
I ran 80wmo/20G, in '01 Jetta TDI, I settled it and filtered it through filter elements only, and used a heated inline heater vegi therm just before the inj pump. After maybe 4 tank or 4 months or so, it did start smoking bad, like you explained in the video, really bad, like embarassing, and not good, i couldnt continue, it was attracting to much attention. So I cleaned the tank out from above, tank was clean, then ran diesel only, and let some ATF sit in the inj pump over night. And Ran diesel cleaner in the tank with diesel. It did get alot better. I would think the IDI would run wmo better and easy no problem, but not so? I have heard to not run wmo on anything with a dpf, And I question if the tdi does have a diesel particulate filter. It has a particulate filter honey comb looking stuff in it, just after the turbo, and im assuming that is it. How can we run idi diesels on wmo? My trucks seem to not mind it as much, but I havent run as much wmo through them.
So in '01, that would have a catalytic converter and it would probably be wise to remove it for running alternative fuels. I think a dual tank setup would solve a lot of the issues we both had. My IDI in my truck drinks it no problem and has for years.
@@NotSoGrandGarage What does the dual tank solve? warming up and shutting off on diesel? is that the coking problem? Yes I have two idi, chevy 93 6.5 and 91 idi ford 7.3, the chevy seemed to not mind it, no while driving, maybe a bit more on start up. Ive heard the stanadyne pumps handle it just fine. Wonder if the bosch ve pumps should handle it too just fine? My tdi didnt like it, I may not go that route again with tdi, but would like to if possible.
@@user-lq5jn5sz1w dual tanks let's you start up, warm up, and shut down on diesel. Easier starting... Oil not getting baked on the nozzles on shutdown... Oil takes heat to burn clean. Running oil on short drives... Cold engine .. it leads to issues.
If you run a dual tank, when you switch to the WMO tank where does the overflow from the injectors too? Back to the stock tank or do you have to run dual returns, one for each tank?
Return fuel goes to which ever tank it is pulling from.
To help it clear up...... have you done an Italian tune up a few times. Better yet done with high dose fuel system cleaner in her?
Nearly every day. Lol. It doesn't go many places without being pinned.
Also make your mix first dilution first then run through the centerfuge it will be way cleaner this way because it's already thinned down
I'm using heat to thin the mix pre centrifuge. It's heated to 180+. I'm not heating a gasoline mixed blend. Don't want evaporation issues or the added potential for fire.
could you do me a favor please..... I no longer have an SD nearby.... besides had my dieselized 404 Unimog the longest... and it's lay out had the 617 sitting wayyyyyy different. Well now I have a Jeep with the 617 turbo..... and the fella who installed it put it at an pretty good down slope toward the rear.... soooooo my dip stick wont show proper.
Can you let me know what approx angle your engine sits? is it horizontal.???. just slight down slope?? this will help me know what angle to park my jeep to check oil on dip stick properly.
mucho thanks in advance.
PS- if you have not done so.... change your engine mounts..... maybe engine shocks too. WIll help reduce wear and tear on sooooooooooo sooooo many other components. bad engine mounts likely is what let it rattle enough to break the air cleaner mounts etc.
PS2.... love the paint job.
Sits pretty level front to back. Bottom of the oil pan sits pretty level in all directions.
It probably sludged up your injectors, it would likely be fine with a tank of diesel with a bottle of diesel Kleen every other week. Are your valves adjusted?
Valves are adjusted regularly. I'd say the prechambers are coked up more so than the injectors themselves. I'll pull them one of these days and get it cleaned up.
So I had haze issues with my van it's an Isuzu 1.7td Idi engine. For years I ran all sorts on veggie mix same as the van. Too heavy with waste oil mix and a nightmare to start terrible haze and bad mpg. I pulled the feed line off the pump and put it into a 5 litre oil container with injector cleaner, engine oil and atf. My injectors came back around thankfully and only on 1202 atm. Going to put second tank in for waste oil like yourself. Already have the fuel heater inline. When up to temperature and swapped to waste oil mix, are your engines happy? Never did it this way before but veggie too expensive now too
Ive got a 1.7 16v isuzu in the family fleet and i will also be investigating alt fuels. Thanks for the info
@@ohnoitisnt twin tank set up would be the way forward on a 16v they're known moreso for clogging injectors. I've built a 16v with old style cable pump for a friend there and hoping to do the same to an engine of mine then
On my IDIs, they run as if on pump diesel when done this way. When out on the road on long trips, I occasionally will switch back to diesel for a 20 miles or so and lean on it pretty hard just to keep things clean. Start up and shut down on diesel... no issues.
hey :) it's said that those old diesel mercedes engines runs on almost anything.. however these om616 and om617A orN/A does not prefer any other fuel than diesel. these are realy the worst engines to play with alternatively fuel.. as my MB w123 E240D (om616) in cold wintertime almost never starts normaly without heating the regular dieselfuel before injection pump, or using adds in the diesel as the diesel in the wintertime gets to thick i had to add a huge amout of parafin/kerosene to mix the diesel so the pump and injectors could work more easy during coldstart. this was an typical and well known problem with al those engines.
However i prefer therefore the well known OM60X engines and mostly the older 601-603A or N/A. these engines does not have any problem of using pure used cooking oil without any addons only one time filtered. but as we hawe a colder climate i only use cooking oil during summertime. However during wintertime i got an option using used engine oil or transmission oil mixed with 30% diesel fuel. I never had any struggle with these fuels i use with my om60x engines. However my om 616 (240D) become a nightmare even just thinking about adding a small amunt of non used 2 stroke engine oil in it... these 616 and 617 is not the easyest engines to play around with. hey are only reliable as long as they remains orginal and with diesel fuel only... i've broke a few of these engines before.... 😅😅😅
in al i highly recommend to get urself an MB OM601-603 engine for play with alternatively fuel :) i also happend to build a OM601 STD with a 170hp and over 400NM of torqe even on alternatively fuels as spill oil :D and yes ! the OM60x family ar more reliable in any way than these 616 and 617 :)
I've got a whole fleet... 616s... 617s... Cummins... IDIs... DTs... They all drink oil in some fashion. This 617 actually does really well on 50/50 blends in a single tank but I got greedy and tried 70%. Be sure to check out the rest of the playlist. Thanks for watching and thanks for the input.
I wish we had your fuel prices
£1.78 a LITRE here so that’s £8.90 a gallon
Yeah that's rough. In other areas here, it's now over $9/gallon
are you filtering your fuel before hand? if so how?
Yup... direct drive centrifuge.... oil heated to 180F and processed slow.
Can you use a bigger % of used oil and the remaining as petrol and not diesel? Just to match the same viscosity as 50/50 used motor oil/diesel but with the ability to use more of the used motor oil at the same time you buy less new fuel? I'm thinking the petrol would ease the entrance of WMO in the engine to be ignited/exploded/oxidized due to compression, and the petrol would ignore after, when temperatura is high enough so petrol would self-ignite
Possibly. The limit for gasoline is roughly 30% based on what most people say. Above that can cause issues. If it had dual tanks amd the ability to start and shut down on diesel, I'd run 90% oil and 10% gasoline with no diesel in one tank... amd straight diesel in another.
Thanks for the video bro, I swapped a 617NA into a rodeo and it's got some extreme blow by. Was planning to make it a 1 tank wvo burner but now I'm hoping the rings are stick and water injection will clean it up. Was supposed to be a 50k engine, i installed a catch can,adjusted the valve and ran 2 cans of diesel purge. Put about 5 miles on it so far but i have a couple bugs with the serpentine conversion to work out. Can you give me any advice? Thanks brother!
Order a quart of Kano Labs Kreen. Pull the injectors... put a few ounces down each hole and let it sit for 24 hours. Rotate the engine by hand a 1/4 rotation... add a few ounces... repeat the process until the quart is empty.... let it sit for a few days after. Spin it over with the starter and then put the injectors back in it. Get it running and let it run at an idle for 10-20 minutes. Change the oil and then go beat on it. See if the blowby improves. If not, rings or bores are done. If it starts without starting fluid and doesn't drink oil... I wouldn't worry too much about it.
Anything new on this project? Interested to see how it panned out, if you got back to using WMO, changes needed, etc.
Right now, it's got a front suspension issue. It's in line to get fixed.. everything around here is broke. Lol
@@NotSoGrandGarage LOL, sadly, I can relate :) "How long will it take honey?" "A couple hours" 3 days later.... :)
@@enmiredbythelazy4401 every.. single.. time. Lol
@NotSoGrandGarage did you ever get the suspension issue fixed? I'm having crazy smoking at idle issues with my 2000 ALH vw tdi...when driving down the road it's actually clear like normal. But idling is embarrassing and I'm trying to get it cleaned back out and then not go past 40-50 percent wmo if it will run that way without smoking at idle
@chancefluke7833 what blend caused the haze? I'd probably just pull the injectors and clean the tips off manually using a brass brush.
I have a plan to build a small distilling unit for waste oil. Most of them would kill your electric bill but if your not in a hurry, maybe a smaller unit set up properly with some interesting electrical components could give you a consistent but small flow of distilled oil. It seems this would be the best option if you want to eliminate most of the contaminants in the fuel. I want to build it to run off of solar so as to not have to pay so much for the energy to produce the fuel. I've already done a few tests and I'll have to say, I'm still on the fence about it. I don't give up easily so it may take me a while to figure it out but I will document it when I do. What do you think?
Distillation is definitely viable... but I'd heat the system with fire... wood heat.. like a boiler not exposing the unit to direct fire... or wood gas that could be controlled.
Im curious so far what is best with minimal fancyness. before you build a distiller..... try the method of cleaning the WMO with acid to make the additives drop out. You can bring it back to non acidic once you pull the nasty out of the bottom by then using a base to neutralize what ever PH you are sitting at. battery acid is most common.. read some research where good not vinegar Acidic acid works too yet less caustic concerns. New experements are being done with something like a biodiesel titration methold to get the nastys out.
Honestly if one did any of the above BEFORE distilling you would get a purer product of diesel anyway.
@@NotSoGrandGarage the concern is you need to get to temp FAST then hold the temp for max production. Hard to do with fire. yet...... with fire you can return the un wanted first set of distillates back to the fire to help....... hmmmm.. so which ends up better in dollar per production..... 👀
Im wracking my brain on hybrid..... trying to figure out how to electric heat on sides to heat vessel somehow..... leaving below to also use fire. Open to ideas
@@coachgeo I have seen where one guy was using absorbents to clean up the diesel after it had been distilled but I will have to do more research for sure. I want to build it because I want this unit for more than just oil. This will allow for some hands on experience and to test a few theories I have floating in my brain. Currently I am only storing oil for future use.
@@NotSoGrandGarage If you heat a much smaller surface area and use less amounts of oil, I believe I can accomplish a high heat low output device that can be left running 24/7. I plan on some automation to keep from blowing things up for sure. Slow and steady like a drip drip of a leaky faucet.
I've been running 50/50 in my tractor for a year now I can't go over 50% or I have same issue
Yup. 50/50 worked great. We'll see what happens here in the future.
@@NotSoGrandGarage it's funny the people I do my side job for like brush cutting and driveways always why don't u just fill up at the station I don't think they realise I wouldn't do my side work if I had to pay pump prices id rather just carry my 15 gallon rolly can and fill the tractor up
@@michaelparker5814 with fuel costs now days, that's no joke.
@@NotSoGrandGarage I had doubled my prices but people still call me bc the pros prices are still way higher then mine but I just do that stuff bc it's fun to me and it makes the tractor payment if I can't make any money I turn jobs down unless it's like a person in need or something I can write off
Same for me turning wrenches. I'm cheap compared to most shops but I have no overhead costs so I can afford to be cheap and still make good money if that makes sense. Shops around me are 3-4x my rate now.
Did you paint the blue Mercedes in your own? Mind sharing how or what you used?
Yup. It was rough when I got it. Scuffed it up and sprayed it with tintable raptor liner. Has been on the car for over a year now.
@@NotSoGrandGarage what is the blue color code?
@@shanecall its one of raptor liners standard colors. Navy IIRC. I'll have to check.
@@shanecall Yup.. Navy Blue from Raptir Liner. Now you can tint it any color but I liked the blue and it worked well.
Hey! I am looking to get a 250D 1993 automatic 113hp. do you thing it would run ok on black diesel? I filter down to 0.2micron and blend with 15% petrol
It may. I wouldn't do it in a single tank... 2 tanks for sure
I have a '21 Ram 2500 6.7 diesel. I also have a Wolverine Technologies centrifuge, plumbed from a 55gal. drum with a band heater. I used to clean WMO for use in my multifuel deuce and a half, that I thinned with kerosene.
Does anyone have any insight into using cleaned WMO in a modern diesel? I'm told my centrifuge (running about 1 gal. per hour) cleans WMO down to .01 microns. My truck's diesel fuel filter is an 8 micron filter. I would think that if I blend to proper viscosity, my truck should burn my WMO without damaging my engine. Any thoughts on this?
Thanks for the vids you're making. I'm hoping to get back into this after having sold my deuce about ten years ago.
I've not got any experience with it but with the high working pressures and super tight tolerances... its a gamble. Even a bigger gamble considering replacement part costs. I've heard of some running the 6.0 powerstroke and the dmax on oil but I've never messed with it.
@@NotSoGrandGarage Thanks for the reply, mate. Have you ever had your cleaned WMO tested through CAT or similar place, just to see what kind of particulates/ solids and metals are in it?
@@gadsdenconsulting7126 no but planning on it. I've got some review videos and some back to back comparison videos of different centrifuges upcoming and I'm considering sending samples of each to Blackstone labs.
@@NotSoGrandGarage Great, looking forward to them. Thanks again👍
What is your mpg? Same as straight diesel?
Depends... in some cases yes... down sometimes.
try using liquid moly diesel purge
I've done it before woth good results but this time, I want to pull the injectors and cups to physically see the build up on them
I have a 3 cylinder diesel tractor that I bought new and I will run 1 gallon of used motor oil to 5 gallons of fresh diesel fuel. It starts right up and runs perfect without issue. My question is will this eventually hurt the engine long term?
Depends on how you're cleaning the oil. I'd say no. May coke up injectors or what have you, but it's unlikely you'll cause permanent damage.
Thanks for the quick reply,
I do not clean the oil at all. All I do is put 1 gallon of used motor oil to 5 gallons of diesel fuel straight in the tank.
I just figured the fuel filter would catch particles or heavy sludge.
Am I wrong about this?
@@DP-ke3vf Yes. Check out any of my batching videos or small batch tests. Your average oil filter is 20-30 micron nominal rated... meaning it catches 50% of that particulate size at best. Most fuel filters are around 10-15 micron nominal. Wear metals and such can be submicronic. At minimum, I'd pick up a 1 micron bag filter and dump your oil through it a couple of times. It's messy... but it's better than nothing. The clearances in injectors and the injection pump are much tighter than bearing clearances inside an engine.
OK thanks I will do this going forward.@@NotSoGrandGarage
Mix petrol in instead of diesel, run it at 8:1 wmo:petrol.
My blend is ~85% oil... ~15% gasoline... and then that is roughly 50/50 to diesel in the tank. May step up to ~20% gasoline on my next batch for giggles.
Ditto on the shirt. Had a notion but glad😬 to confirm.
Do you have a video already made on the dual tank setup for beginners? Does your wife participate in the dual tank setups? My wife is usually preoccupied wife our many kids and I’m not sure if that setup would be ideal for her. I do most of the longer trips especially with the family in our 15 passenger diesel van. Thank you for the videos again.
Glad you had the notion... none of this matters much at all if we don't know where we're going when our time comes.
I do have a video that explains the dual tank setup and plumbing... and I'm currently putting a video together that shows how it's done as I'm plumbing the 2nd tank on our bus.
Appreciate you watching!
How do you describe haze?
A light gray to the exhaust making it noticeable. Basically when the exhaust becomes visible all the time... but not quite smoke if that makes sense.
How’s it running now?
The SD is parked up at the moment with a massive oil leak. Nothing fuel related though.
you spoke fast in begging of your video. I did not get what your blending with.. I got the WMO.... but not sure what the other was..... diesel... petrol? I think diesel.... going by your statement diesel prices where going up and you started fudging up higher WMO content.
That is because I'm running a single tank and don't run my fuel straight in the Benz. 50/50 was my original mix of my fuel to diesel... but increased it to 70+% my fuel to diesel.
Hello Friend im running on wmo BMW 525d E39 injection comon rail i want to échange my expérience with you
What's up?
Is this one N/A or TD?
Om617 turbo
@@NotSoGrandGarage I've heard turbo diesels and direct injection do the best with carbon resistance on black diesel. Do you have any opinion on the matter?
@@DrYosh2 the best engine I've ever ran on black diesel is the 7.3 IDI ford.. with a turbo kit. Once it's running and at temp, it just doesn't seem to care what's in the tank. I've had coking issues with every direct injected engine I've ran... but many claim they don't so not sure what to think there.
@@NotSoGrandGarageI'm seeing widely varying info on that topic too. I have a Chinese Yanmar L100 clone I'm building a generator out of and i have been running totally unfiltered WMO. Just to see what would happen. It has started right up every time down to 28° without issues. Thats one of my low risk guinea pigs. My shop torpedo heater is another that has worked on 80/20 so far.
@@DrYosh2 SKIP the torpedo heater. It may run on it... but being unvented... you're breathing all of that in and used oil contains some nasty stuff... especially un-processed used oil. The little clone engines are slick though and I'm planning on ordering one for some testing here soon.
Here's what i found out about my diesels. there the same injectors as yours.. i haven't made a video of my sd22 diesel pickup, but i put these injectors in it and it fixed alot
th-cam.com/video/9n2FMWK5MFw/w-d-xo.html
I'll take a look in a bit. Thanks for sharing and for watching.
Just watched. Interesting. I've got monark nozzles in these currently. May have to track down some Denso nozzles.
Hello I have a 1987 300d turbo diesel with the om603 3.0L
It only has 165k miles and runs strong. With no blow by. Do you thing 25%
Mix would be ok. I've thought about running mix fuel in it but also considered selling it and buying a vw to restore. But I hate to sell it because the body and interior are nice and everything works. Hard to decide.
It should run on that without a problem. Just make sure you get the oil clean. How do you intend to process it?
@@NotSoGrandGarage all my oil has sat for a year. I have a 5 micron bucket filter to filter it.
@@w124mercedes7 grab a 1 mic or .5 mic bag filter to finish it off. Be sure it's moisture free.