Make "Biodiesel"? Let’s find out! Diesel vs Biodiesel, Used Motor Oil, Vegetable Oil, MPG
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 พ.ค. 2021
- Biodiesel vs diesel, used motor oil, diesel, and hydrodiesel. I bought a diesel engine for testing different alternative fuels. We’ll see how it runs on straight diesel, used motor oil with 10% gasoline, biodiesel, vegetable oil, and hydrodiesel. Please let me know if you'd like to see a comparison of MPGs / fuel efficiency. A BIG thanks to Matt from the Warped Perception TH-cam channel for sending the hydrodiesel to me for testing. Also, thank you for supporting the channel, which allows me to decline all sponsorships to ensure unbiased testing.
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I've worked for a major engine producer for 15 years, 10 years in engine development. I tested fuels many times with injector changes, piston changes etc. Your method is very similar, power/consumption, corrosion to materials, viscosity with wear components. Awesome work, love the content.
Thanks!
@Alex Fracyon I use 2-stroke oil as additive in my old tractors. Many injection pumps are lubricated by the fuel and a little extra lube makes many of them run smoother.
Interesting.
@@nicostenfors5690 makes sense, as those old diesel need that lubricity.
I never really trusted bio, because mileage always suffers.
As I drive old Mack trucks, I might just do the 2-stroke oil thing, maybe I can make them last a bit longer.
Has there been any research on untreated vegetable oil on engine efficiency, long-term wear (including seals), etc.? Thanks
As the author of a book about bio diesel, called “The do it yourself guide to biodiesel”, I’ll add some interesting notes here. As always, a good video. Even though I wrote the book 15 years ago and haven’t mastered biodiesel in about six years, I think I can still remember most of it, LOL.
Cooking oil is a triglyceride, meaning it is a large glycerin molecule attached to 3 fatty acid molecules. When the methanol and catalyst (either Lye, or potassium hydroxide also known as KOH) are mixed together They form a very caustic solution. When that is added to heated up cooking oil and agitated it breaks the bonds causing the glycerin to drop out. You don’t want the glycerin because glycerin doesn’t burn well and eventually gums up engine parts. That’s why SVO, or straight vegetable oil is less than ideal (Because the glycerin is still in it). And biodiesel is not just cooking oil with chemicals added, it’s actually a new chemical substance because of this whole process.
Water washing works really well, but you actually need to remove the remaining water from the bio diesel which is why it still looks cloudy in the video. I used to do it by spray drying. When it’s truly clean it will be very clear, although it will still have a tint anywhere from Amber to yellow.
I ran biodiesel in multiple engines for years with not one problem. It can’t be winterized like petroleum diesel and will gel as shown in this video. That and the fact that due to the way modern diesels are designed, you can only use a maximum of 20% in the engine if at all, so I finally gave up on using it because I like to drive modern vehicles.
I never liked the idea of straight vegetable oil, known as SVO, because the glycerin is still in it which causes problems with sensors, and general gumming up. And you had to have an oil heater to get it to flow properly, and then switch over once it warmed up, and that was even more difficult in the winter so it has huge drawbacks.
But I used to make it for $.35 a gallon which was great in 2008 when fuel prices hit $4.00 a gallon. But what actually determines the price is the methanol. You can usually find cooking oil for free, but the price of methanol is what will determine the final price. I used to buy 55 gallon drums of it from my supplier for a good price. My diesel truck as well as my fathers and our tractor all ran smoother and quieter on biodiesel so I miss it.
My current channel focuses on teaching home-improvement skills with a focus on drywall. I just recently received my silver play button for 100,000 subscribers so I don’t get too involved with bio diesel anymore.
Great explanation Kilted! I too have been involved in making B100 for both of my Mercedes-Benz Diesel cars. The process is exactly as you described. My friend has a processor, and we make 80 gallons at a time. He has solar power, so the only hard costs are the methanol and KOH. We can make it for less than $1.00 a gallon!
Can you describe the spray dryer?
Thank you for the info! I am the opposite and run all older vehicles and equipment on my farm and am going to run biodiesel in the warm months.
@@davidscott5903 well basically you’re trying to gently spray the bio diesel out in as wide of a pattern as possible which exposes the fuel to more air & the air slowly evaporates the water. When it is finally dry it will go from that milky hazy look to crystal clear almost instantly. It will still have color to it just not the haze. I manufactured the equipment for six years under the name EZ biodiesel and had connections to nozzles that would spray in a nice flat pattern. A lot of people just use a garden sprayer nozzle or something like that.
I have a second TH-cam channel that I just now started with no videos, called That Kilted Guy Creates and I may do an example of how to make biodiesel the way I used to. I had mine tested once and it came back very clean.
What is it about modern diesel engines that makes biodiesel not work? Emissions, or something to do with the newer injection systems?
Been making Bio-diesel since 2007. Very easy to make. Tip : pre-treat your next batch of WVO (60 deg c for 1 hour) with the glycerol of the previous batch. Will lower Titration, increase yeild and clean out most of the glycerol from the remaining methanol and KOH ( I use KOH).
Thanks for sharing!
Checkout Robert Murray smith on making biodiesel with gelatin. Way easier!!!
Thank you for making such a succinct script: quick and direct no waffle OMG you made my day. Instead of opinions and repetition, you smacked straight in on the start the line and ran right through to the flag. Love your work. Informative, scientific and NO FLUFF. - kind reg Adam
Thanks so much!
My 80 year old neighbor gets used cooking oil, lets it settle, filter through paint filters, and mixed it half and half with diesel. He was a trucking Company mechanic for 45 years.
Thanks for sharing.
Tell him i need some fuel 😂
This guy is the "learn DIY from me" hero for home improvement, engine equipment, and vehicular stuff. Oh, he's the best tester on the internet!
Thank you very much!
“I think we should try rolling some French fries with this biodiesel” 🤣🤣🤣
I drove otr years ago and ran out of fuel in Louisiana in the middle of nowhere, Put 3 gallons of motor oil in the tank and drove my Kenworth several miles to the nearest truck stop, That old Cummins ran great all the way there! Enjoy your videos from central Florida!!!
Thanks! Thanks for sharing.
I have a friend that has been running his 2nd gen 12v cummins, and 2 Mercedes 290d's on used fry oil from the local restaurants for the last 20 years. He gets the oil free as the state charges to pick it up for recycling. He does nothing other than filter the chunks out. You know he's nearby when you smell french fries in the air. His total cost per year for fuel is like $50 in filters.
Thanks for sharing.
There used to be a whole scene of people in Germany doing this, they called themselves "Pöler" (from PflanzenÖL = Plantoil).
Old fry oil, vegetable oil like rapeseed oil, sunflower salad oil (which was cheaper at the next supermarket than diesel at the petrol station).Works best with older diesel engines and in summer, most modern injector pumps don't like it. So it's a dying species.
@@Slazlo-Brovnik Poles did that as well. 😆 I know cuz Im the one. Used french fries oil with some diesel in my old Golf with 1,9 TDI.
If he was in Wales UK , he would be prosecuted and fined by what they call their "frying police". They don't want anyone to have cheap fuel! :-O
@@brettymike here's the Trick, just do it and keep your mouth shut! What the Gestapo pigs don't know ain't gonna hurt you
Haven't seen the friction tester in a while, it's nice!
Thank you very much!
Agree!
Can’t wait to see the friction tester on a diesel engine oil showdown!!
Are you sacrificing 10mm sockets? Is that where all of them are going?!
The wife not home? 😂
You have no idea how much I love your videos, you dont miss any single detail
Loving the super high speed format! So thorough. Leaves no question unanswered.
Thanks!
Long term testing idea: wood weather sealing treatments.
Oh, good idea...try thompsons, different stains, linseed oil, spar urethane, etc.
Thanks for the video idea.
@@ProjectFarm and concrete waterproofing
This would be awesome. I've got a 20' car trailer ready for wood treatment, I'd love to see what works the best. I've heard of people using used motor oil cut with diesel, but this often makes the surface very slick when wet.
Cottontail grouse.... I’d like to see some testing of crematorium components too while we’re at it.
I set up an old Ford pickup with dual tanks for my dad years ago that ran used vegetable oil. The trick was starting it with diesel and then switching to the vegetable after it warmed up. Then switching back to diesel for a bit before shutting it down to get an easier start next round. The vegetable oil didn't seem to give the same power on the highway but free is good lol
Thanks for sharing.
I change car (long lease) over 2-3 years and I do around 60000 km for year. I make a lot of experiments with vegetable oil. Using your system( change fuel on start) and using pure vegetable oil, I find that the mileage without problems is around 40000 km. After, issues come often : valves, turbos, and other things. Considering the fuel consumption is more about 5% with vegetable oil, the convenience is when the vegetable oil price is under 10% minimum above the diesel fuel. And now, in Europe, the diesel fuel is around 2 € for liter, and vegetable oil is around 3,5€ due to the war in Ukraine. So I suggest to be careful with pure vegetable oil
That's a system.
Guys I've seen some damage that veg oil does to diesel motors the residue it leaves behind and what it does to the oil ... in modern trucks I would steer away from alt fuel thats anywhere near that thick
You want a nice method for modern diesel motors add like 10٪ methanol for a cleaner run better emissions and slightly more power and better mpg
@@georgephillips7408 The man who invented the diesel motor, Frederick Diesel, intended for it to run on peanut oil, i.e., vegetable oil. All the 1st gen. diesel engines run perfect on new, not used, vegetable oil. My "93 Cummins diesels love it, no pre-treatment, no methanol, no thinning, no nothing..
Our friends ran a transmission shop and they mixed a 30/30/40 used filtered transmission fluid, old filtered fry oil, bio diesel blend in their 24v 5.9cummins. Engine ran great and on day it blowed the front main seal like most Cummins at 300000, when they tore it apart it looked brand new inside from the detergents in the trans fluid!
Thanks for sharing.
Years ago I pumped fuel at a truck stop. Some truckers would put a quart of tranny fluid in each tank before I filled em. I figured it was for cleaning like Marvels mystery
I fully appreciate your review of these in a comparative format. I have been wondering. I made biodiesel in the mid 2000’s and found it to work very well, and it smells a lot better! Thank You!
Thanks so much! Thanks for sharing.
Sounds like you're balancing audio so the engine sounds aren't so loud now. I watch these videos late at night and really appreciate that extra effort for my ears.
Thanks!
7:54 “Well, I don’t know about rolling coal, but I think we should try rolling some French Fries with this Bio - Diesel”
That, sir, made me laugh, and I’m one not to laugh much.
Thanks for sharing.
The type of vegetable oil used does seem to make a difference in the lubricity of the fuel product. I remember reading some very detailed studies from Canada a few years ago where biodiesel made with canola oil, and different percentages of canola oil as feedstock produced a very high quality fuel with enhanced lubricity. Interesting study. I'm sure it is out there somewhere on the Internet if a person did a search for it. Great video, thanks!
Thanks! Thanks for the feedback.
In Germany Theres many people using old Mercedes with canola oil, we don’t have vegetable oil, it’s usually olive, sunflower or Canola no one really mixes that
That sounds very useful. I'll try and find it as i plan on getting a diesel and making some form of alternative fuel to resist the forced change to EV's for as long as possible. Tickets be damned, i refuse to be forced into buying something that is frankly under-developed and inferior.
Another really good video. I was quite surprised by how well it ran on old oil but hey you tested it for all to see so great work.
Thanks! Thanks for the feedback.
The fact you present with a smile and a positive attitude keeps me coming back every time. Thanks ^_^
Thank you very much! A positive attitude goes a long ways!
30 seconds in, and I have to give a thumbs up for the amount of testing this guy has to suffer through for all of us.
Thanks so much!
Bro you do realize hes rich from making these videos right? He has 2 million subscribers lol
[probably some 13 year old kid]
@@tripleo4255 yea bit he's patreon only and isn't getting multi million dollar sponsorships like desecration ranch or all those gun bunny channels
I think so much of your videos here on you tube, I just became a patron supporter!
Super job, one of the best channels on YT.
Wow, thank you! Thanks for becoming a Patreon supporter!
So good to see your channel doing so well!
Thanks!
Would be interesting to see how much power each fuel generates, and what the engine looks like after long term use.
Thanks for the feedback.
Ya that would be great! :D
@@petrbelohoubek6759 Depends on where you get your energy from. if you had decent solar or hydro (I have a friend who gets hydro power from a river gravity fed line on his property with 3 custom turbines) so there is definitely ways to get power and then convert that into mobile energy (if you dont have an electric vehicle)
The engine isn't the main issue. The big problem people see and blame on fuel type is corrosion, usually from biodiesel that has not been dried enough or left in such a way to allow it to absorb moisture as water dissolves in biodiesel compared with diesel where it sinks to the bottom. Proper drying and a water absorption filter at point of dispensing are critical.
I have been watching this guy for about 5 years and I these experiments he does never fails to surprise me. Love what you do dude.
Thanks!
@@ProjectFarm ijmnj
ive never seen any channel go so much into detail in testing everything ... cheers bud
Thanks!
This is the first time watching ur videos that i got an ad for a makita sweepstakes. Great video as always. 👍❤️
Thanks for the feedback.
In the oil refinery industry the extra step to remove the sulfur from diesel at that low part per million also strips some of the lubricity components in diesel. This is why many believe the myth that sulfur is a lubricating molecule. Sulfur does not lubricate but the process of removing it reduces diesels lubricity index.
@@jjohnston94 they don’t do any extra work. They don’t put anything back.
Thanks for sharing.
If you've ever gotten sulfur on your hands or on the ground, you know it's slick as owl snot.
@@Garjahn I love the analogy.
I have Sulphur that I use to keep the Taipans & King Brown snakes away from the house, I wonder if it's just the slipperiness they hate - If so, I will use flocculant!
source to support your claim?
shouldve ran the engine on that mix of all the oils from the freezer and see how lenient diesel engines are to their fuels
Would have been fine apart from the hydrodiesel component, but given the ratio of the others to the hydro probably would have mitigated that too.
Thanks for the suggestion.
Most mechanical diesel engines are pretty lenient with their fuel by default.
you've just done most of the tests I planned to do in making biodiesel.
really good video
Thanks! Thanks for sharing.
Long time time DIYer but new to the diesel world, myself. As I'm getting into establishing a maintenance plan on my truck, I'm overloaded with options/opinions (most seems to be driven by marketing). Would love to see your testing applied to more diesel specific items like you did with the anti-gel video. I thik the community could particularly benefit from a video on fuel filtration comparing stock filters with aftermarket like FASS, Airdog and Caterpillar for their flow, life and filtration capabilities. Thanks so much for all the insight you provide for your viewers!
You are welcome! Thanks for the suggestion.
New diesel not worth the money... EPA emissions cuck them
This is the guy you want around when the apocalypse hits.
This and Tech Ingredients.
Thanks!
@@ProjectFarm just came to recommend your video to people on tiktok. Do you not have a page on there for like quick tips? I'll be your first follower if ya don't 👍🏾
What about Canadian prepper.
We're living diesel now. This is why they made pigs illegal (too easy to dispose of crimescene evidence since they eat skeletons).
idk the long term drawbacks of biodiesel are, but i can assure you running older diesel engines live a long time on filtered used vegetable oil. about 9 years ago i turned my wrecked VW Tdi car into a generator for our home instead of fixing it back up to be used on the road. It had 286k on the odo back then and since converting it multiple versions of our home backup generator, its been running on filtered used vegetable oil for just over 7 of those years. I have it setup on a dual tank setup, starts and stops on normal diesel, but shifts to used vegetable oil once the temperature of the oil has reached 150f, which is heated by the engine coolant. I filter my oil with a centrifuge filter system, because the cost of filters got pricey and is easy to clean out, but I use denim jeans as my garbage prefilter, because i can get them from the local thrift store for free in large quantities. I get my oil from local mom and pop restaurant for the past 7 years and have managed to accumulate more than 2500+ gallons of the stuff in 10 IBC totes I have sitting in the barn. I have thousands of hours of run time on this VW TDI engine running off the SVO over the course of 9 years as i use the setup to self power its filtering process via a mechanical pump and engine coolant circuit to thin the oil out during filtering. My latest version of the setup runs DC motor heads, which directly feed my solar system to charge the batteries with direct DC instead of going from AC back to DC to charge the batteries and run my home.
Make sure you get spare backup parts for that tdi nice work w/ the 2500 gal.
Are we talking a Mk4 or later car? Cause I've been looking to do this as a little fun project and forums and other sources pretty much say the mk4 engine is the safest bet to run WVO in it. Something about injectors changing in the mk5 and 6 models. Only problem is there are no used mk4 vws anymore on sale by me lmao
a video on the detup and a run down would be awesome
Best review channel on TH-cam, and as far as I know nobody else does videos quite like these.
Thanks!
Finally a lubrictiy test that you didn't make a mess. I figured you would have built something or used something to keep from doing it before you started doing these tests .Nice job again. Very informative and gives a guy something to think about.
Thanks and you are welcome!
I live for your videos. Ever since I discovered your channel, I watched literally every video you published. The great (and clever) lengths you go to in order to make sure each experiment is equal and to ensure that no product gets any advantage over another is truly impressive. Keep up the great work!
Thanks, will do!
I've actually had to run my car on refined sunflower oil when I was on a road trip . Drove around 350 km on high altitude roads ( 3000 m above sea level ). Honestly I couldn't tell the difference.
I mean, the engine was created to work with bio oil
I have seen you compare tools and lubricants, but this is just awesome. Shows how well and not so well all these biofuels work.
Thanks!
I ran a inline 5 mercedes diesel motor(617) for a few years on filtered waste vegetable oil without any problems and every time I would tell someone, they had hard time believing. You're tryout with multiple options should clear the haze in some people's minds. Very good job! Love you're channel, by the way!
Thank you!
I don't have a diesel but I enjoyed learning about the different fuels. That is what makes your channel great, the education you share. Thank you.
I appreciate that!
I've been waiting on this episode since you had it in the poll option the other month.
Thank you for voting in the poll! I'm working on other videos from the poll too
Great video, thank you for sharing, stay safe, warm, happy and healthy, from Henrico County Virginia
Sorry I m late to the party, thank you for your content very informative, You asked for ideas, I would like to see plastic pyrolysis or biomass gasification, I have seen people running an engine straight off the gas at the end of the process. But not on the actual fuel they supposedly made, I would like to see you make either fuel and run the same tests you have done in this vid.
“High octane, low octane, if it flows and burns, it can be used as fuel.” Seems to be true in this case.
Actually it's cetane (a different type of hydrocarbon molecule), not octane. Gasoline is just used mainly as a thinner with engine oil, veg. oil, etc.
You can use coal as fuel
@@erwin643 thank you for the information, I was just quoting a fuel description from somewhere else.
Yeah, I was surprised how well straight vegetable oil did.
@@erwin643 Yeah, I figured out octane. I will need to look into centane and learn about it.
Love seeing your assistant in the thumbnails. Too funny! Commenting early, but I know the video will be excellent. :-)
Why don't you comment on Taofledermaus anymore? You used to be around for every video.
Thank you very much! You did a terrific job with your video today!!
@@ProjectFarm shoulda tried running the engine with them all mixed together at the end lol.
@@ProjectFarm Please search for: "Chevron diesel fuel PDF" and Read Page Six. Sulfur compounds in diesel do not improve lubricity. The sulfur compound in motor oils is an additive called ZDDP. It is often confused. You have great channel, not being critical. I worked for Shell and ARCO in all operations of refining including Lubes production as a chemical engineer.
READ MORE
@@joshuagibson2520 Because Taofledermaus is a selfish jerk that only cares about himself. Multiple times he have clearly showed what matters to him, and it is not other people, it always about his own skin. Just as an example look at a fairly recent video ''NEVER go "Full-Grebner" and you will see how much of a jerk he is.
Thank you for this comparison. It has answered many of my questions.
You are welcome! Glad to hear!
Thanks for this video,it was very informative and very useful for future fuels!I have used straight cooker oil in my 2001 dodge diesel with no ill effects,but only in the summer time and mixed with a 50/50 mix of cooker oil and diesel!
Thanks and you are welcome!
So you tripled the cost of your fuel for no reason. Congrats!!
I think I mentioned it once before but I've been running used motor oil, atf, higher concentrations of gas than I probably should, pretty much anything that will burn for years in my 1st gen powerstroke. Other than a slight smoke haze I've never had a problem & it feels snappier on take-off with used oil. My pyro also runs warmer & jumps temp quicker. Probably a result of the higher BTU content.
If I owned a jiffy lube, I'd probably never buy fuel again. When I do the oil changes on farm buses, I drive free for about a month 😎 This episode was awesome! You are the best, bar none!
Thanks for the feedback.
Never would have thought you could run a engine on milk, see something new everyday I swear.
lol Thanks!
@@ProjectFarm I think this is why the paving on our roads deteriorates so fast. They use an asphalt emulsion instead of the good old straight stuff. They've watered down everything else!
Your videos and work are ART. I didn't know you can actually run Diesel engines with vegetable oil! Wow!
Thanks for watching!
I absolutely love this channel! As always you don't disappoint!
Thanks!
I'm a single man. I see Project Farm notifications, I click LIKE
Thank you very much!
simple?
What does your martial status have to do with the video?
So simple he's single.
Life is like a box of chocolates.
These thumbnails are a piece of art
Thank you very much! I try to have fun with them!!
I love this channel! Always interesting and I love how you do such a good job testing.
Thank you!
Dude you are awesome! Your content is always amazing and neutral as you don't do fake advertising thank you. And keep it up!
Thanks, will do!
I remember hearing a story about someone who worked at a fast food restaurant, and took the used fry oil to use in their vehicle. I always wondered how well it would work. This mostly answered that question.
Thanks for sharing.
I first saw this in about 1978 on an NBC tv show called Real People, an old timer with a diesel VW Rabbit ran his car on old fry grease, filtered and heated. Worked fine.
I knew a cross-state speed courier who ran a old Mazda diesel engine in a Toyota pickup. He had a mobile conversion set up against the cab and drove all over the Midwest with his dog.
90% of his fuel consumption was from restaurant's cooking oil he converted through his custom system in the back.
Two weeks ago I finally retired my 03 Golf TDI. Years ago a station in town offered 100% Bio at the pump. My TDI loved it.
I've always wanted one of those. I was never a vw fan, but the diesel golf has always gotten my attention. I live in a rural area with tons of hills, i think a 5 speed diesel would be a great run around car.
@@volvo09 we have had 3 of the VW diesel 5 speeds prior to the emissions scandal. Two Beetles one gulf. We loved all of those cars. I’m 6’4 and I could fit comfortably. They are like driving a go cart. Small low to the ground and full of torque. Around 40-45 mpg
Thanks for sharing.
@@todddesmarais1325 I'm the same way with the little Suzuki's!
This is what i have been waiting for 3 years i think..good video and good info
Thanks and you are welcome!
that was such a trip! great video
I was all fired up about biodiesel a few years ago I had almost gotten over it. Now you got me thinking again. Great videos.
Thanks!
I'm always amazed at the thoroughness and ingenuity of your tests! This video gave me some insights into my 60 year old diesel tractor that I never would have expected from the video title. Keep up the good work!
This was a great video. It would be neat to see the torque and power curve of a diesel engine running on each different kind of fuel. I know that running such a test would be a tall order but it would be neat to see.
Thanks for the video idea.
I love watching your videos. They are incredibly well done and informative. Thanks very much!
You are welcome!
Haven’t watched yet, just wanted to say that i love your channel, Project Farm. You’ve helped me and my family make wise product choices throughout the years.
Thank you very much! This means a lot to me!
Would love to see this engine thrown into a go-cart and performance tested against a gasoline counterpart!
Thanks for the video idea.
The channel "cars and cameras" put one of these small diesels in a gokart if you're curious.
I was wondering for years if it was possible to run a small Diesel engine w/the products tested. You Answered A Lot Of Questions. Thank You!!
You are welcome! Glad to hear!
Thanks for all your hard work ! I really enjoy all your videos.
Thanks and you are welcome!
"I don't know about rolling coal, but I think we should try rolling some french fries with this biodiesel...." Another good one-liner. Got a suggestion for your test if you do a part 2: Have the engine run a generator and check the power output/fuel usage/governor setting for each fuel. Also, see if a slight mix of oils/fluids will help things work better.
Thanks for the video idea.
You could also use a bomb calorimeter to check energy content of each fuel.
yeah but the oil needs to be clean or an issue may arise
That was amazing man... I was Sooo excited for this Video! That was cool and making fuel from Vegetable oil and drain cleaner...dam! I love the Chem Lab In The Garage Vibes! That was cool to see.
Acetylene vs vegetable oil when xF
@@Brian-mp2mv yes and yes!
Thank you as well for sending him some bio diesel it was so thoughtful end it made amazing content
Hey @Warped Perception I really love that you are collaborating with @Project Farm, awesome to see two of my favorite TH-cam channels working together!
Your videos are awesome WP
Good video as always. At the end I liked your shirt. I saw Chris at No Nonsense Know how channel wearing the same exact shirt on his channel during a live video feed about a week ago. I even commented on it as I am a sub for your channel and really really LOVE what you do. Great channel as always.
Thanks and you are welcome!
Great video and thank you. I run used motor oil in my 1983, 300d Mercedes. Just only in the summer time. Pushing a million miles mark. Just a old project car. Restaurants are a good place to find cooking oil. Heat and filter. Only works on older diesel engines. Mechanical injection. Thanks for all your help and advice. Happy holidays to you and your family.
Thanks and you are welcome! Happy Holidays!
"Rollin' taters" should be a thing now with biodiesel. Lol
lol Thanks for watching!
Rollin taters on the haters
We call it rolling Canola in our lab.
Rollin taters !
Nope. The best source of biodiesel is the back door of a liposuction clinic.
"Driving off the fat of the land!"
or...
"Why does your truck smell like dead hookers?"
"Wait, how do YOU know what dead hookers smell like?"
It would be interesting to see how the engine runs under load with each of the different types of fuel as always great video.
Yeah, this. I though about that during the video, forgot about it, and was just reminded with this comment. See how the available power output of the engine changes with these fuels by running a generator hooked up to homemade load bank. AVE made a load bank sometime in the past year with a bucket of saltwater and a few wires hooked to copper rods, and you vary the load by immersing the rods further into the solution. The generated electricity is expended through hydrolysis.
Thanks! Great suggestion. Thank you.
Yes this!
Measured power output, performance under varied loads, fuel consumption averages over time and turbo performance, ie: lag and boost would all be good info to compare with alternative fuels. (Turbos are driven by expanding exhaust gasses which could be effected by different fuel burn time and temps).
@@ProjectFarm LOL, I just rewatched that video, too perfect. AVE actually said "here you go Project Farm" at the end.
I had a biodiesel plant in the cannic hotel glen afric. And I made 1200ltrs of soap on a couple of occasions washing the bio d with water stops the reaction and it works fine ....great video lots of work thank you Mike Scotland .
Thanks! Thanks for sharing.
I was waiting for you to run the engine on everything mixed into one at the end!
Thanks for the feedback.
Todd kills me lol. He's so damn formal all the time but I guarantee he's a blast to hang out with!
Thanks!
Man's a living legend!
Can't fool around with tests when you have a youtube comment section full of experts ready to point everything out to you.
@@anselmojones4392 😂😂😂 so true.
Wow, I was completely surprised on what a diesel engine will run on!
In a pinch , you could have the family squeeze the juice out of their french fries to get a few blocks down the road! Lol
Thanks for the feedback.
Sadly gasoline engine does not want to. Ethanol, kerosene, and WD40 are some tried by a guy called Master Milo. He is from Nederland so go for subtitles.
Wow . What an awsome experiment ! I really enjoyed that insight . Surprized at the motor oils performance . Some kind of torque test with the differing fuels would be great .
Thanks!
Hey, you made it! Thanks, sir. I've been making biodiesel for like 8 months now to use as a cheaper alternative to lantern fuel for my parrafin oil lantern. It's about $1.50 a liter if you make it in bulk compared to $3 a liter for the store bought fuel. Also, sodium hydroxide works too and you can often find it much cheaper as crystal drain cleaner compared to potassium hydroxide
Also, from what I've heard you can set up large rigs for making biodiesel and restaurants will let you empty their grease traps for extremely cheap fuel that only requires some passive processing
Thanks for the feedback.
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Love it, brother! Thank you for this! When I bought my F350 I could still buy diesel at $2.99/gal. Lately I’ve been paying $4.29. I’m constantly on the hunt for used vegetable oil on CraigsList - Biodiesel has been supplemented heavily in my truck, and the 7.3L Powerstroke is primitive enough that it can even handle heated oil well. I’m interested in trying to process 50 gallons of pyrolysis oil, because old plastic bottles and plastic bags are easy to come by. Our cities in California have already bought up most of the used veggie oil and eventually it will become impossible to find, and being able to make diesel from trash is the holy grail I think.
Thanks for another great video!
Anyone that knows what’s what will sell their used vegetable oil since it’s used in making makeup
You are welcome! Thanks for sharing.
Was wondering what the US price was as keep seeing US folk comment about high prices when here in UK due to taxes(I think) it's $6.89/gal! (£1.28/litre at £1 = $1.42)
@@thewayis_meh987 Yikes, man. Yeah, I had heard that folks in The UK and other parts of Europe really get overcharged for diesel and petrol. It would be even better for someone like you to find a way to supplement your pump diesel consumption. A lot of those old European diesels are quite versatile, and will have no trouble with alternate fuels - especially with a hot engine.
Cheers, man, and good luck!
@@thewayis_meh987 in Las Vegas Nevada it's $3.30 to 3.90 depending on location and brand.
The corrosion protection with diesel comes from years of leaking causing a nice layer of gunk under the vehicle :P
Yep!
Thanks for the feedback.
Used oil is far much better
The years of running a high pressure diesel motor does seem to give you a lot of oil leaks and i can show proof of the corrosion resistant properties under my 96 superduty.
@@kwestionariusz1 Good thing I have those leaks too lol
Love this channel, goes to prove that an older diesel engine (IDI) will tolerate different fuels like veg, motor oil, kero as i have tested similar in my old isuzu lump. Recently tried gear oil 80w90 mixed with 10% petrol/gas, result was bit more smoke but no drop in power, unfortunately the smell may annoy drivers behind you :/
Thanks! Thanks for the feedback.
As always great video. Could you do a part2 to determine the fuel economy of the various diesel blends?
Thanks! Thanks for the suggestion.
so when society has gone to hell and we are in a mad max scenario diesel engines will be king, great test man kudos
Thank you!
Damn skippy. Just run it on whatever is at hand.
That little diesel engine also shows how valuable a source of used veg oil can be, you could set up a generator and power everything if you have enough.
Diesel engines with old school mechanical fuel systems and little to no emissions systems to be more specific.
Not just diesel engines
Ah, good to hear diesels are king, should work in my Police Pursuit Special, it's the last of the V8 Interceptors you know.
I got involved in a "Breaking Bad" type operation back some decades ago while working with some folks under the radar producing a lot of diesel fuel equivalent in a big hidden lab. We had a couple of Walter White style chemists, a Gus Fring style benefactor and distributer and bunch of gangsters procuring our supplies. My role was more of along the line of a young Mike Ehrmantraut. Being ex military and a current private military worker at the time I was the problem solver for the operation. We did pretty good for a few years until the FBI got involved and we shut the whole thing down and went our separate ways. Funny thing too one of the agents investigating the untaxed fuel turning up that we were producing was a former brother in law of one of the chemists just like in the Breaking Bad series who inadvertently tipped us off.
Very interesting!
That's "former military," BTW. "Ex-military" means you were thrown out.
oh the FBI most likely knew everything they was doing and sit on it for a very long time until they was ready to bust you... untaxed fuel is way more common that you may think but the gov't usually don't come after you until they know you made a certain amt so that they can seize your money... can't hide or smuggle that amt of fuel without the gov't not knowing because the oil companies got the best of the best working for them and they would be the ones to find these operations and then force the gov't to go after ppl... down in the Florida area (i'm not going to say where) i knew a few guys who actually made aviation fuel and they got their raw supplies all the way from Venezuela (i never did buy anything) but they told me how things work.. you're right about everything else, you got to have a good chemist (a Walter White) but they didn't steal anything as business men sold them what they needed on the down low..
@@dunhillsupramk3 Yup, that's how intelligence rolls; they don't go after anyone until it makes economic sense to do so. I actually had a neighbor years back who made his own biodiesel for his Duramax back during the financial crash; in common midwestern style he had his 1000 gallon EPA containers of used oils and chemicals sitting outside, no biggie alongside his garage. Tons of neighbors complained that it looked like a meth lab and demanded the local Sheriff do something about it, only to get them explaining to the NIMBYs that there was no way government agencies would go after one guy even if he was doing something illegal because of how little economic impact he was having. Pretty sure he's still making it today too.
This reads like the navy seal copypasta
Great video, a ton of information, well paced, very interesting, all good! Thanks
Thanks so much!
Not to parrot the much-deserved praise. I love your content. It has helped me answer so many questions on si many products. That being said. What engine is that? I've been looking to replace my log splitter motor. A diesel would simplify fuel purchases by going all diesel on my equipment. You should run it against other engines for furl efficiency, and such.
I love your videos, you do a great job. How about a hand tool comparison such as ratchet sets, parallel wrenches and screwdrivers.
That would be cool.
Thank you for the video idea!
old diesel tech (indirect injection, or electro mechanical one from the 80s) are the best if you want to run vegetable or motor oil. 2 key charateristics : A strong enough injection pump and a powerfull fuel warmer and engine pre heating system
Thanks for the feedback.
EDC rotary pump diesels from the early 00s are also good. Just stay away from anything that has a Lucas rotary pump. Bosch Verteiler pumps are good. Inline pumps (like on mercs) are even better, because they use the engine oil for lubricating the injection pump, not the fuel, so the lubricity of the fuel doesn't matter and they're really tolerant.
@@ProjectFarm Also, very interesting to see the lubricity test. I've always wondered if veg oil could be used as an alternative to motor oil in a brand new engine that hasn't seen any oil yet. Perhaps along with some of those oil additive bottles you can buy. One theory why veg oil doesn't work in a (warmed up) engine is because veg oil reacts chemically with the old leftover oil that is in the engine, causing either bacteria/algae, or polymerization (creating rubber like plastic in the oil). I'm not sure if completely brand new engines come completely free of oil though, as I've never bought one. Presumably so, since you had to bleed the fuel system? Would this be a good video idea?
Mercedes. I have run some for a bit in a '77 240D, but now I have a '91 300D and I will be occasionally running some SVO when I can get it.
Yes, because the old diesels ran with a low (and reliable!) 2500psi or so fuel pressure. The new disasters run at around 25-30,000 psi (ridiculously high!).
I( have gotten to the point where if I am thinking of something to do with ANYTHING mechanical, the first thing I do is go to your channel and type it in! Thank you AGAIN for a great video, you are a treasure.
Thanks!
Great video! Years ago I used to drive my Peugeot Partner 1,9D (made in 1997) on used engine oil for couple of years. It had no problems with it, even started quite well on cold climate. At first I filtered it but later was to lazy do do so. In the winter just in case added some 30% diesel on tank to be sure it has no problems with starting. The engine did not smoke or did not smell badly when using old engine oil as fuel.
Thanks! Thanks for sharing.
I would apply great caution in using "hydro diesel" in ANY diesel engine that you want to use for years and years.
As you know, (and this is more for your viewers who don't know), ALL piston type internal combustion engines have piston rings. These rings have gaps in them to allow them to be placed in the grooves in the piston. A properly built engine always has these gaps placed opposite from each other to cut down on compression blow by. Note I said "cut down". They do not stop it completely. I can't speak for consumer sized vehicle diesel engines but I do know that tractor trailer trucks use their 11 gallon oil supply for anywhere from 10,000 to 25,000 miles. BTW, did I mention that most, if not all diesel powered vehicles and heavy equipment have WATER TRAPS in their fuel lines? There's a reason for this. Not only is it a good idea to keep water out of the fuel system in the winter to prevent icing but also if there is water in the system and it separates and gets into an injector line, it doesn't burn well so you can scratch that cylinder's contribution to the cause until you bleed that injector line or entire fuel system depending on how much water is present. My main point with the oil is if you have water constantly in the fuel, it will eventually find it's way into the oil past the gaps in the piston rings thereby diluting the oil and reducing it's lubricating quality.
I started driving 48 years ago just before the Arab oil embargo. Not long after, I started seeing advertisements hawking a bubbler setup that you installed in your power brake vacuum line or PVC line if you didn't have power brakes. You were supposed to install this glass 3 or 4 quart jar under the hood, add water and this "secret" formula liquid that was nothing more than pink stained methanol. It was supposed to use the vacuum to draw air into the jar to produce water bubbles to be sucked into the combustion chamber of "any gasoline engine". The idea was to inject a non-combustible substance into the combustion chamber to take up space thereby increasing the compression ratio and resulting higher horsepower and better gas mileage. Yeah, how'd that work for you?
It, of course, was a fraud for several reasons:
1) If the "bubbles" were even able to survive the trip up the hose, most of them would surely pop when in contact with the intake valve.
2) If the bubbles survived past the intake valve and did what they were supposed to do, increase compression, this would cause your engine to knock thereby raising the octane requirement of your engine meaning that you now have to burn more expensive premium gas or retard your timing and reducing the horsepower, gas mileage and efficiency of your engine to even lower levels that in the beginning or risk engine damage from detonation.
3) If nothing else, you are now introducing water into your engine where it doesn't belong and giving it a path into your oil past the piston ring gaps mentioned above.
There's a reason that oil companies don't add water to their petroleum products. God knows that they would make more money if they could as water is cheaper than crude oil.
Not to knock your friend who produces hydro-diesel but it almost sounds like the bubbler deal. You can't use the bubbler on a super or turbo charged diesel as the intake has positive air pressure so no vacuum to make it work. It almost sounds like hydro-diesel is meant to increase compression like the bubbler but in a diesel engine that already has proper compression, increasing it more could mean that you would have to lower the cetane rating of the fuel to slow down combustion or risk head gasket, piston wrist pin or connecting rod bearing damage. 15:1 or 20:1 compression is stressful enough and diesels are built for this. Increase it much over this on a long term basis can also stretch head bolts which over time can lead to head gasket failure.
I'm NOT saying that hydro-diesel is a fraud and it might actually be beneficial in an older diesel engine with less than ideal compression. One that you would plan to get rid of when it finally quits. If Hydro-diesel was all that was available to get you down the road, I'd use it and flush it out as soon as I could get regular diesel fuel.
Keep using hydro-diesel if you wish. All I can say is somewhere down the road, if I see you with your thumb out, I'll be happy to pick you up and take you to a shop.
Hydrodiesel is an interesting fuel, I would not be so concerned about water in oil at least at the rates it would be seeping past the compression and intermediate rings. I would instead be more worried about settling of the hydrodiesel much like water in regular diesel. Hydrodiesel is supposedly designed so that the water is encapsulated in some coating that prevents direct contact between the water and other parts inside the engine. What I do not know is what the properties of this film are and how they handle wear. Diesel fuel is the lubricant for injection pumps and injector bodies alike, gasoline is so harmful because it's a crappy lubricant comparatively and is like running an engine with water in the crankcase instead of oil. My concern would be the wear on injection pumps and injectors, common rail systems operate from 15,000psi all the way to 60,000psi and were designed to operate with diesel fuel specifically. The tolerances, materials, and even shapes are designed for the lubricity and viscosity of diesel fuel, not an water in oil mix (which is what they call it). I guess if you ran your oil for a long time you could have a problem, but the rate at which water would evaporate from the oil is pretty high. Even in the winter when i'm running down the highway my return oil temp from the oil cooler is up near 150 degrees F, in the summer it will regularly hit 190-200 degrees on the oil return temp. Cars and trucks around here can have problems in the winter on longer oil change intervals if they only take short trips and their engine oil never warms up, they will actually get water in their oil from condensation. Just take a nice drive every now and then and that problem is solved.
Maybe long term use might have some effect if you ran long oil changer intervals like 8,000 miles or more, but on diesels running 3-5k on an oil change I don't think it's a big deal. Though I would be curious to see someone try running it for an entire oil change then having an oil analysis done on it.
@@2009dudeman For the record, everything I spoke about regarded big trucks. Not pickups or cars. Mercedes was the only car in the country then with diesel. What you say makes sense and I have to admit, in my old age, I am working on 40+ year old information. I took a 2 year course in diesel mechanics from 1974 to 1976. From what I learned back then, paraffin and sulfur in the diesel fuel was the injector lubricants because diesel fuel isn't much more viscus than gasoline. Large truck fuel injectors then were kind on like a large steel plug that went into the cylinder. It had a pin inside that was under a high pressure spring. This pin had a cone shaped point on the cylinder end that fit into a matching hole. The tolerance then was .0015 inch. Hence the need for extremely clean fuel and no air in the system. The high pressure mechanical fuel pump would force fuel down past the pin to the point where it would push back on the point allowing the fuel to atomize into the combustion chamber. When the pressure came off the injector, the pin would drop back into the matching hole and the back pressure through the injector nozzle wouldn't be enough to leak compression pressure back to the pump. I am not sure if this configuration has changed significantly over the years. I know that low sulfur diesel is now the law and pollution standards were just coming into existence at the time. Back then, Heavy duty injectors on new trucks had limiters on them to prevent rolling coal but marine injectors required no such limits so some owner operators would risk voiding their warranties by installing marine injectors. I remember when we laughed at our teachers when they said computer engine controls were coming soon. Yup.
I can see where water in diesel can cause the problems that you mention. From what you are saying, I assume that you have a diesel in a pickup or car bot correct me if I'm wrong. While both automotive and heavy equipment diesels function basically the same, there are some differences. While automotive diesels use what 5 to 8 quarts of oil, Tractor trailers use up to 11 gallons. While this may have changed some, I don't see that it would be by much. Over the 1 to 2 million mile life of an industrial diesel, if serviced properly, changing it's oil every 3,000 to 5,000 miles would get extremely expensive in a short time. a 1 million miles and 44 quarts of oil changing it every 5,000 miles is 2,200 gallons of lube oil. Big trucks in my day, at least, had oil change intervals of 10,000 to 25,000 miles as the added volume would be more forgiving of contaminants like ash and water. I have seen the damage that water can cause to bearing surfaces in engines. It's not a pretty sight. Yes, water can evaporate in a hot engine but in the 50 or so years that the road draft tube has been replaced by the PVC valve, once the water evaporates, is has nowhere to go but to condense back onto cold engine parts and back into the oil. When fuel and oils were high in sulfur, There was also a problem with water mixing with the sulfur to make sulfuric acid in the oil. In the short run, this was negligible but if a truck sat more that it ran, as you mentioned, it would add to the damage of bronze bearing surfaces pitting them and making them spongy on a microscopic level. On job that I had years ago, they had what they called "the yard dog." It was a single axle, dual tire tractor with a hydraulic lift and an air release on the hook on the 5th wheel. It also had a back door out of the cab. It wasn't made for the road and never left the property. What it was for was to jockey trailers in and out of the shipping doors if a company driver / truck wasn't available. It was a real time saver. Instead of backing up under the trailer, connecting the air hoses, cranking up the landing gear, backing into the door, cranking down the gear, disconnecting the air hoses, pulling the release and pulling out, you backed under the pin, pull the lift lever and lifted the gear about 8 to 10 inches, step out the back door onto a small catwalk, connect the air hoses, jump back in and back it into the door. Let the lift down, step out the back door, disconnect the air, get in, push the air release and drive away. In and out in 3 to 5 minutes if you know what you're doing. They had me do this some times as I was the only one on the property on that shift that could drive a truck if the regular guy was out. This is the type of truck engine that suffers from lack of service as it never gets hot and no miles hardly for years so the oil might stay in it for 5 years before someone thinks about it sitting in the yard quietly.
@@jeffmccrea9347 I was a diesel mechanic on class 8 trucks for awhile then an auto mechanic, before my shoulder gave out and I would lose feeling in my fingers. Not too much has changed in modern diesel injectors, they still use a poppet valve on the injector tip, most are electric actuated. Most diesels are going common rail now, which is slightly different from the old mechanical pumps you are used to. The main difference is that instead of a different port and line on the pump for each cylinder there is one port on the pump and a big fuel rail that runs the length of the engine where each injector taps into. This is fed by a traditional enough injection pump, usually a gear pump at pressures between 15,000-60,000psi. When the ECM decides to fire an injector it sends a electric signal to the injector and a solenoid forces the plunger open overcoming spring pressure. The rest is pretty much still the same, minus some nozzle design changes and multiple injection events per combustion event.
As far as diesel lubrication they still use paraffin, but in place of sulfur they now use several other additives that perform various functions from cleaning to acid protection, etc. Diesel oil has also significantly improved, the additive packages they put in it now are night and day from old oil. They have corrosion protection additives that prevent the acidic blowby gasses from making the oil acidic, to cleaning dirt and grime buildup, as well as some emulsifiers to help dissolve water and prevent small amounts from pooling, mostly if you are in cold climates.
Not that I would ever use hydrodiesel, if it really was that good then everyone would be using it, and I think you are right that in a big truck it would cause problems. They are pushing oil change intervals on them to ridiculous lengths, I have seen 40,000 mile oil intervals on some road trucks. Course I think those ones took 18 gallons and had oil life meters. But in a regular small diesel like a truck or lawn tractor, it shouldn't be too much of a problem for the internals of the engine, they tend to get pretty hot thanks to emissions in trucks. I'd still be worried about the injectors and injection pump, those tolerances you mentioned have only gotten tighter and I would be very hesitant to put water in there. Hell, most of the newer trucks would get mad and start throwing codes if you used vegetable oil or used motor oil they are so sensitive and some have fuel sensors that measure the conductivity of the fuel to make sure it's good.
Most all trucks use some form of crankcase ventilation, whether it's positive ventilation or a breather vent, they all run back into the intake and air is being quickly cycled through the crankcase. Vapors in the air are more likely to form from outside air once you shut it off and it starts cooling down. This goes for both small and big trucks. Though long periods of idling are killer on diesel engines, i've seen trucks come in with almost a gallon of diesel fuel sitting on top of the oil because they idled in the cold so long it started to wash down the cylinder. I'd never put hydrodiesel in a big truck for exactly that reason.
@@2009dudeman WOW, now you have made me feel like I wasted two years of my life. 😂 Just kidding. It has been a long time since I was in the diesel repair business. The original plan for me in the 70's was to take the diesel course as a preamble to a car mechanics course that had a 2 year waiting list. Car mechanic was my primary goal and we figured that if I took the diesel course, it would help me breeze through the car course due to the commonalities between them. I got tired of school after the diesel course and resigned myself to that but even that got old after a while so as you can see, I didn't keep up with improvements over the years. Where I said that you made me feel like I wasted 2 years was sort of stagnation on my part. If I had gone from the course that I took and moved directly into a school teaching what you said here, I would have said that it was all wrong but then that's what we said in 1974 when they told us that ECM's were coming soon. When I was in school, Anti lock and fail safe brakes weren't that old either. I'll be 66 in 4 days and have been disabled for 22 years this past February. Stagnation is my middle name. Thanks for the update. Next time, I won't make a fool out of myself with stone axe information. 😒
I’ve ran tons waste motor oil and transmission fluid, in a 12v Cummins truck. With proper filtration it runs perfectly, you actually get better MPG as motor oil has more BTU per gallon.
How do you get the water out. I have 3406b cat mechanical and about 100 gallons of used oil I want to use but I know it's got some water in it. Would paint filters work for filters
@@skrapenpennies9947 you need to be able to drain the water off the bottom after it all settles or just pump the oil off the top. I used 1 micron filter bags to pour the oil through. Just search on Amazon there’s tons of options.
Thanks for sharing.
Wow! Wow! Wow!
Why whatever you do is so awesome?
Can't get enough.
Thank you kindly dear sir
Much obliged for all the effort,all the time,all the knowledge and thanks again for being the "real truth"
Greetings from the small rainy island 🇬🇧
I appreciate that!
I would LOVE to see a follow up video on this about which additives improve the performance of biodiesel the most.
This should include cold weather additives like Heet.
Thanks for the suggestion.
This has to be the best channel on TH-cam, I would love to see a video on testing which leather conditioner is the best, thanks for doing what you do!
Thanks! Thanks for the video idea.
Damn if I could use some sort of alternative. But those new diesels with high pressure systems will fall apart just by smelling this stuff lol
Thanks for the feedback.
You could probably run up to a 50% biodiesel mix in common rails if you didn't have to take the DPF into account. I wish more places offered bio anymore. Doing a 20% mix keeps the modern pumps alive longer and probably wont kill DPF's faster than normal.
Get this mixture wrong on the high pressure common rail diesels and your in for some expensive repairs to the fuel injection system, the old type indirect injection engines are far more tolerant to fuel quality than the new engines. I’ve known people use old filtered engine oil diluted with Kerosene to make it thinner for use in winter when the temperature drops but again only in the old IDI engines.
@@davidellis279 You deffinitly have to be careful, you need to use well processed bio for your mixture, especially on the CP4 designs though, the pumps will last way longer on at least a light bio mix. Most manufacturers have to rate the modern diesels for B20 now since that is mandated in some areas, so I'm fairly sure you can push a bit past the manufacturer recommendation with the headroom they usualy include. I wouldn't trust the random stuff that the neighbor made in his garage. The commercial blends have to be tested to make sure all the chemicals used for glycerin removal have been washed out.
I thought new diesel can use b20
Very cool video nice work @Project Farm
Thanks 👍
Another good one keep up the good work man
Thanks, will do!