For sure. I've tweaked my fuel process a bit since seeing these results. As far as particulate and moisture are concerned, our stock should be cleaner than what comes out of the pump at the station.
Very informative, thank you. One thing to consider is that your process is removing the additive package that makes oil multi-viscosity. What you're left with is base oil that the old-timers would call "single weight". Shrugs. I believe you're already cutting the finished product with RUG, so I wouldn't sweat the viscosity issue too much. Thank you for posting these results!
Hmm... I don't have any more from the bucket. This was all done for a company but I may look into doing some of that on my own in the near future. We'll see how these videos do and if it'll be cost effective.
@@NotSoGrandGarage Have you seen here on TH-cam 'The Motor Oil Geek'? He is Lake Speed Jr. and appears to have his own analysis company. It would be a good collab.
No joke... and we only missed the 4 mic number... BARELY. Both other numbers beat the standard. I'd say if I would have ran it a bit slower, I could have beat the standard all together.... or ran 3 passes.
Nearly had a centrifuge bought via wvo 6 months but too busy to get set up. Liftwd a second hand 'fuel shed ' to start off with. These videos are why my van is getting a dual tank set up for ireland. Its an idi so no complaints. All because vegetable oil became tpo expensive here to use. Perfect timing with the channel in that regard.
I love IDI vans... Had an IDI short bud that we built out a few years back before building the hauler we have now. With that said, when you get ready for a centrifuge, www.notsograndgarage.com!
My guess on the viscosity: every pass it gets heated before entering the centrifuge. I assume the lighter components are cooking off each pass. If you watch any of the oil videos from "Project Farm" the cooked oil always tends to get thicker.
Maybe do a pass with the tempature turned up more. Don't know the operating temperature range of this particular oil but would be nice to see results from it. Maybe a last pass through a 1 micron bag the oil is hot and filtered with the centrifuge so I would think the bag would last a while and flow through it well
I'm sure it would last for a long time. With that said, this was done for a company and they requested certain tests. Maybe we can do something else in the future.
I bought 2 centrifuge setups running back to back to save time. Slow once but 2 spinning bowls per time. I planned on heating first stage but not second In theory will have enough residual heat. You may have to try something similar.
Yeah 2 of these units is out of my investment range at the moment if you get my drift. Lol. With that said, your setup should work well and work fairly fast.
If the viscosity increases too much cut it with upto 1/3 kerosene and mix well and it brings it down nicely without too much additional cost specially if you can access a local heating oil pool purchasing group.
High Viscosity: I wonder if you are actually removing an additive package in the oil, and it maybe affects the viscosity. In explanation to your higher viscosity readings... Just a thought. I have heard oil companies do add an additive package, but not sure if that is for viscosity. But I think ive seen it in oil before that has been sitting long time, and its almost like a sludge looking stuff.
That would make sense. I was also curious if the high heat and force being applied to the oil was causing rapid oxidation. Either are plausible I'd say but no hard proof.
Love your videos never thought I would see waste oil get back to like new condition in someone's shed. I bet your truck runs better on your oil then diesel fuel I posted a video on how I filter wmo it works well for me but definitely not as good as your set up
It's definitely been a progressive thing over the years. I started all of this with whole house water filters over a decade ago.. lol. I wish I would have went with a centrifuge from the start. Thanks for watching!
i love it but i cant help but think by the time a guy sources the oil heats it and runs it 2 or 3 time thru the centrefuge if your ahead at all . i run my heated oil thru a 25 micron and then a 1 micron into the tank, so far 100k miles . not without problems but not bad
I've done the math... including power consumption, I'm at less than $0.10/gallon all in. That's not taking I to consideration that we're on solar and I get most of my gas for free. Yes it's worth it.
so the solution to cleaner oil are higher rpm and microfiltration. You can get 10inch water filters for cheap and filter inserts for them which go down to 0.0001 Micron. I used 0.2Micron absolut and it clogged the filter on uncleaned oil after 100 liters. On cleaned oil that will be whole different story especially when you add two nominal 0.5micron filters prior. Which cost pennies.
Potentially. So yeah.. higher Gs (rpm in this case or a larger rotor and more rpm). As far as the filter setup you are talking about... I've never seen filters that fine and I looked a fair bit (but that was 13ish years ago at this point). You could certainly polish the oil with a filtration step but I'm not sure how you'd push oil through a filter that fine. Gravity flow would take a LONG time based on what I've seen.
@@NotSoGrandGarage well these are 10inch filters which are actually designed for your water from well to filter it. Also heard the term garden filters etc. I used a dispenser pump for motoroil that a shop would stick into an oil drum to pull the oil out of it coviniently. You could also use an old oil pump from a car and drive it with a drill or use the sprocket and some motor to drive it. With me these plastic filters tolerated 10-12bars without any issue.
@@NotSoGrandGarageyes definetly. They're made for the pressure spike when closing a water valve very fast. Which didn't occure in my system. Just be carefull there are 9 7/8 and 10inch systems out there. Both filters and cartridges. Don't know whoever decided to have two systems so close by each other but these are of course not interchangeable.
I was looking in to how they purifi diesel after distilling it and wondered if using the pool sand they run the diesel through as the last step before centrifugeing it might clean it easier the pool sand was used to remove color and make it clear instead of dark murky color before it goes to the pump
I've tossed around the idea of doing something similar... just haven't had time to test yet. It's on the list. I also want to test the "kitty litter" method which some use to remove dye from some fuels. We'll see though.
@NotSoGrandGarage the kitty litter way iv seen is using silica liter do you think any kitty liter would do about the same I looked at the price of the silica liter a guy used in England to remove dye from diesel its 3x higher then the silica pool sand but still farly cheap
@NotSoGrandGarage if you try it I'd like to see I don't have my set up finished still trying to save up for the centrifuge and pumps got lot of oil settling while working on the rest I saw the info on how they do the diesel and got me thinking it might make it clean enough you wouldn't have to run duel tanks after it went through the sand filter then a centrifuge only other set up iv seen used charcoal filters but it didn't seem to clear up the diesel as well
Im also looking into this. In Namibia our diesel is about US$ 1.20 per litre. $4.75 per gallon. Not bad in international terms, but our incomes are much lower. Like mine😂 I work at a company that does fleet maintennance for a couple of large line-haul and distribution companies. We drain a couple of thousand litres of oil per month. (It get sold, but for about $0.10 per litre. I am going to convert a 50 year old Mercedes 23 seater bus into a motorhome. Its powered by a all mechanical (obviously) 3.9 litre, 4 cylinder diesel that produces only 66kW/85 hp @ 2800 rpm. A good, robust, low-tech platform to rum WMO in. The plan is a 2 tank system. Start and shut down on diesel, but switch over to heated (120 Celcius?) WMO on the move. Another benifit I have, is control over the source oil. I can have the mechanics keep antifreeze etc out of it, and store it in clean drums right after draining. Also, the oil we drain is also drained at recommended mileage, so none of the usual garage horror stories come from them. With these busses, you go wide open throttle almost everywhere. I'm hoping these higher combustion pressures and temps will help to keep carbon deposits down. (In use, it will be long distance driving. In town, I will run diesel only)
Sounds like a pretty solid plan. The only real issues that come up are injector and precup carbon build up. Have a way to remove and clean the injectors on board.... And go with it. Yes it can be a hassle .. but the savings alone makes it worth while. It also doesn't mean it's something you'll have to do... Just something to plan for.
That I don't know. The additive package wasn't flagged by Shell. There were some minor changes in it as you can see (it's on the 2nd page of the results at the bottom).. but nothing crazy. They didn't give an explanation. I thought, at first, that it was rapid oxidation but the TAN numbers went down.
I always wondered about that. How clean is your oil after you get done with it. It seems to be the thing to do and maybe even the third pass might be the ticket. Great job
Great work as always. Love seeing the analysis. I'm curious to what, if any changes would be in data after normal filtering on the truck before injection. Also, I wonder if Blackstone labs could give you any other valuable data. As for viscosity, was this sent to the lab with a clean (or fresh out of the pump vs old gasoline. As old ethenol gas attracts water which could push the final water number up) gasoline adder as you normally do? You might be doing better than you thought on that front. Would ethanol free gas help with viscosity and lower the water number further. Just thinking....
This sample was nasty contaminated gear oil that we were processing for a company, testing out the centrifuge to see if it would get the job done. It worked great for water and particulate... not so much for the viscosity though.
Can you please tell me the inner diameter of the centrifuges bowl? I am wondering about the g-forces you reach with your bowl. I'm currently building a centrifuge out of an Volvo A40D Dumper Torque Converter, it has an inner diameter of 38cm, at 2800rpm it creates 1665g of centrifugal force. The good thing is though, my bowl is huge. The oil has a lot of staying time in the bowl, so the effective time the oil is affected to the g.forces is a lot higher than in a small bowl like yours.
So maybe I'm just not smart enough to wrap my head around the math... but at a given output flow rate of 2 units (different size bowls)... isn't time in the bowl the same? Now yes input rate would be different... but we measure by output rate... so 5gph... is 5gph... the oil is passing through both bowls at 5 gallons per hour. The only difference is your input rate would be higher than mine to compensate for the larger bowl. I could be way off there though. I've measured the ID but I don't recall off hand. I know it works out to around 4000 Gs @ 6k rpm. With that said, if time in the bowl is actually different for matched output flow rates, the fix is to slow down the flow rate or run multiple passes. Most torque converters can be spun to a fairly high rpm without risk... you could potentially bump that rpm up a fair bit (depending on design of your unit). I know a lot of people belt drive their DIY units and it can be great for setting RPM of the rotor easily.
@@NotSoGrandGarage Lets say your bowl contains 2liters and the flow rate is 2liters per minute. The whole oil in your bowl gets replaced in 1 minute. Lets say my bowl contains 20 liters. The whole oil gets replaced in 10minutes. So each liter of oil gets theoretically 10 minutes of time in the bowl, if you assume it's following the first in first out principle, so it is not mixing..... I always have fear the bowl is exploding, shrapnells flying around and so on, lol
I do not... But based on the comparison video O did on them, I'd say it's safe to say that the pressure driven units wouldn't perform nearly as well as even the 3k rpm batch in the lab tests.
@@NotSoGrandGarage So the pressure driven units are not suitable? I wonder why, as they do spin faster dont they? Maybe it has to do with the fact that with gravity feed, you can control how long it stays in the bowl and larger volume.
@@user-lq5jn5sz1w there's multiple issues with them. I ran one for years... They are better than filters... But they are very inefficient. You have to heat the entire drum and you need to run the system looped for 20-40 hours per batch to get any real results. There's no way to vent the unit itself so very little moisture removal from the unit itself.... And there's no way to guarantee all of the oil will go through the unit. With the cost of buying a turn key "kit".. money is better spent on a direct drive unit.
@@NotSoGrandGarage Thanks, those are good points. With gravity feed you can go real slow and how long it spends in the bowl. Good point, that it cant be garunteed it all goes through the unit. It looked like your ran it through your gravity and still pulled out a lot of sludge. I wonder if I could just buy the rotor and motor or use my own motor to keep costs down? for gravity feed.
so are they planning on using this as WMO? or reusing it as oil? so it would be good for black diesel but not good for oil because the viscosity is too far from 150wt?
We ate trying to get a few service intervals out of the oil. Their goal is to put it back in service but can't at the moment because viscosity is out of spec. Half million dollar gear boxes... they want it to be right. 128 or so hours on the oil and it has to be changed.... $2k per oil change.
Into this stuff extremely deep for a very long time not sure how a centrifuge can remove solubles also not sure how a centrifuge can improve or change viscosity that is always done with chemicals viscosity improvers thickening agent Tac agent
The only thing I can think of is heat changing the viscosity, however 180 is not nearly as hot as it would be in the engine. Especially considering some oils are rated for 10k + these days. I have a 2006 Jetta TDI brm engine 200k. I'm in the process of comparing, Valvoline Euro spec, orielly Euro spec and motul which say they all meet the vw requirements. I can say that motul seems to be a noticeable difference in fuel mileage (although temps are cooler and air is better now which could and probably does skew those numbers). However mpg is better by about 4 mpg. Also, it seems to sneak out old gaskets whereas the others did not. Small back story on motul. I used to ride dirt bikes and that's what I ran in my KTM. Loved it. Actually run it in my weed eaters and gas blowers, anything two stroke for that matter. When I started riding Harley baggers, I ran HD oil, mobil 1 and other expensive oils. Then I decided (since I owned a motorcycle shop and could get it at a discount, and motul is expensive) to run it in my street glide in all 3 holes. At first I questioned myself, and thought I drank the motul kool-aid. Bike actually ran cooler, shifted smoother, and engine noise was quieter. But like with the VW, my Harley had zero leaks. It started giving me a drip here and there out of the primary.
Particulates don't evaporate with the water... the water is steamed off... the particulate was left in the bowl (the layer of material stuck to the rotor). It is for sure a wet sample... that's one of the issues they are having.
Thanks for the transparency. It really nice to see what the centrifuge is capable of.
For sure. I've tweaked my fuel process a bit since seeing these results. As far as particulate and moisture are concerned, our stock should be cleaner than what comes out of the pump at the station.
Very informative, thank you. One thing to consider is that your process is removing the additive package that makes oil multi-viscosity. What you're left with is base oil that the old-timers would call "single weight". Shrugs. I believe you're already cutting the finished product with RUG, so I wouldn't sweat the viscosity issue too much. Thank you for posting these results!
Thanks for watching
Im curious to see if another lab will yield the same results. Just to keep everything consistent. Thanks for the videos, always love watching!
Thanks. We'll see what the outfit wants to do here soon
Now let’s see these results compared to the typical 1 micron sock all us peasants are running! Haha. Keep up the good work and thanks for the videos!
Yes would be really interested in seeing that too !
Hmm... I don't have any more from the bucket. This was all done for a company but I may look into doing some of that on my own in the near future. We'll see how these videos do and if it'll be cost effective.
I would also love to see the results on the settle/1 micron filter/no centrifuge setup a lot of people use@@NotSoGrandGarage
@@NotSoGrandGarage Have you seen here on TH-cam 'The Motor Oil Geek'? He is Lake Speed Jr. and appears to have his own analysis company. It would be a good collab.
@@promansplainor5245 I have not but I'll check it out
I wonder if you add something like Hotshots would fix the viscosity.
Not sure. This was a gear oil and it wasn't mine. They didn't want to add extra additives as this was for a 1/4 million dollar gear box.
really intersting to see the analysis like that. thanks again for shairng your findings.
Thanks for watching!
It's crazy that the centrifuge cleaned dirty oil that close to fuel pump standards
No joke... and we only missed the 4 mic number... BARELY. Both other numbers beat the standard. I'd say if I would have ran it a bit slower, I could have beat the standard all together.... or ran 3 passes.
My buddy was the first to get certified in PA to sell veg oil as fuel . He centerfuged after heating and bag filtering it. Centerfuges work great!!
@@Camcodrummer indeed they do!
Nearly had a centrifuge bought via wvo 6 months but too busy to get set up. Liftwd a second hand 'fuel shed ' to start off with. These videos are why my van is getting a dual tank set up for ireland. Its an idi so no complaints. All because vegetable oil became tpo expensive here to use. Perfect timing with the channel in that regard.
I love IDI vans... Had an IDI short bud that we built out a few years back before building the hauler we have now. With that said, when you get ready for a centrifuge, www.notsograndgarage.com!
My guess on the viscosity: every pass it gets heated before entering the centrifuge. I assume the lighter components are cooking off each pass. If you watch any of the oil videos from "Project Farm" the cooked oil always tends to get thicker.
Hmm... probably so
Nice testing! Greetings from Sweden. Regular Diesel costs 7.57 dollar per Gallon here! Time to make black Diesel!
Ouch! Welcome to the game! Thanks for watching
Maybe do a pass with the tempature turned up more. Don't know the operating temperature range of this particular oil but would be nice to see results from it. Maybe a last pass through a 1 micron bag the oil is hot and filtered with the centrifuge so I would think the bag would last a while and flow through it well
I'm sure it would last for a long time. With that said, this was done for a company and they requested certain tests. Maybe we can do something else in the future.
I bought 2 centrifuge setups running back to back to save time. Slow once but 2 spinning bowls per time. I planned on heating first stage but not second In theory will have enough residual heat. You may have to try something similar.
Yeah 2 of these units is out of my investment range at the moment if you get my drift. Lol. With that said, your setup should work well and work fairly fast.
Great info. Thanks for enlightment.
Thanks for watching
If the viscosity increases too much cut it with upto 1/3 kerosene and mix well and it brings it down nicely without too much additional cost specially if you can access a local heating oil pool purchasing group.
That'd work great for fuel use... but they aren't willing to do that for running the oil back in the gear boxes it came from. Thanks for watching
Just get a viscosity cup and a stopwatch and test before and after cleaning to see if somehow or another viscosity is changed
Not a bad idea.
May i ask what centrifuge you are using and a video on how to use it would be great.
Check the playlist. As for the centrifuge, it's the WVO Designs Extreme. You can order one from my website... www.notsograndgarage.com
Im curious what the results would been if sent in a sample of new store bought oil with those samples to see what the results would been.
That I don't know
High Viscosity: I wonder if you are actually removing an additive package in the oil, and it maybe affects the viscosity. In explanation to your higher viscosity readings... Just a thought. I have heard oil companies do add an additive package, but not sure if that is for viscosity. But I think ive seen it in oil before that has been sitting long time, and its almost like a sludge looking stuff.
That would make sense. I was also curious if the high heat and force being applied to the oil was causing rapid oxidation. Either are plausible I'd say but no hard proof.
Love your videos never thought I would see waste oil get back to like new condition in someone's shed. I bet your truck runs better on your oil then diesel fuel I posted a video on how I filter wmo it works well for me but definitely not as good as your set up
It's definitely been a progressive thing over the years. I started all of this with whole house water filters over a decade ago.. lol. I wish I would have went with a centrifuge from the start. Thanks for watching!
@@ElectronicMusicUnderground Would be fun to do. I'll have to price out the testing.
i love it but i cant help but think by the time a guy sources the oil heats it and runs it 2 or 3 time thru the centrefuge if your ahead at all . i run my heated oil thru a 25 micron and then a 1 micron into the tank, so far 100k miles . not without problems but not bad
I've done the math... including power consumption, I'm at less than $0.10/gallon all in. That's not taking I to consideration that we're on solar and I get most of my gas for free. Yes it's worth it.
good stuff jack
Thanks for watching!
so the solution to cleaner oil are higher rpm and microfiltration.
You can get 10inch water filters for cheap and filter inserts for them which go down to 0.0001 Micron.
I used 0.2Micron absolut and it clogged the filter on uncleaned oil after 100 liters.
On cleaned oil that will be whole different story especially when you add two nominal 0.5micron filters prior. Which cost pennies.
no problem driving that stuff in a modern non filtered diesel
Potentially. So yeah.. higher Gs (rpm in this case or a larger rotor and more rpm). As far as the filter setup you are talking about... I've never seen filters that fine and I looked a fair bit (but that was 13ish years ago at this point). You could certainly polish the oil with a filtration step but I'm not sure how you'd push oil through a filter that fine. Gravity flow would take a LONG time based on what I've seen.
@@NotSoGrandGarage well these are 10inch filters which are actually designed for your water from well to filter it. Also heard the term garden filters etc.
I used a dispenser pump for motoroil that a shop would stick into an oil drum to pull the oil out of it coviniently.
You could also use an old oil pump from a car and drive it with a drill or use the sprocket and some motor to drive it.
With me these plastic filters tolerated 10-12bars without any issue.
@@no-damn-alias pretty impressive for them to hold the pressure.
@@NotSoGrandGarageyes definetly.
They're made for the pressure spike when closing a water valve very fast. Which didn't occure in my system.
Just be carefull there are 9 7/8 and 10inch systems out there. Both filters and cartridges.
Don't know whoever decided to have two systems so close by each other but these are of course not interchangeable.
I was looking in to how they purifi diesel after distilling it and wondered if using the pool sand they run the diesel through as the last step before centrifugeing it might clean it easier the pool sand was used to remove color and make it clear instead of dark murky color before it goes to the pump
They used silica sand not normal sand
I've tossed around the idea of doing something similar... just haven't had time to test yet. It's on the list. I also want to test the "kitty litter" method which some use to remove dye from some fuels. We'll see though.
@NotSoGrandGarage the kitty litter way iv seen is using silica liter do you think any kitty liter would do about the same I looked at the price of the silica liter a guy used in England to remove dye from diesel its 3x higher then the silica pool sand but still farly cheap
@@lifeoftraveling8330 I'm not sure. I'm going to find out though. Lol
@NotSoGrandGarage if you try it I'd like to see I don't have my set up finished still trying to save up for the centrifuge and pumps got lot of oil settling while working on the rest I saw the info on how they do the diesel and got me thinking it might make it clean enough you wouldn't have to run duel tanks after it went through the sand filter then a centrifuge only other set up iv seen used charcoal filters but it didn't seem to clear up the diesel as well
Im also looking into this. In Namibia our diesel is about US$ 1.20 per litre. $4.75 per gallon. Not bad in international terms, but our incomes are much lower. Like mine😂
I work at a company that does fleet maintennance for a couple of large line-haul and distribution companies. We drain a couple of thousand litres of oil per month. (It get sold, but for about $0.10 per litre.
I am going to convert a 50 year old Mercedes 23 seater bus into a motorhome. Its powered by a all mechanical (obviously) 3.9 litre, 4 cylinder diesel that produces only 66kW/85 hp @ 2800 rpm. A good, robust, low-tech platform to rum WMO in.
The plan is a 2 tank system. Start and shut down on diesel, but switch over to heated (120 Celcius?) WMO on the move.
Another benifit I have, is control over the source oil. I can have the mechanics keep antifreeze etc out of it, and store it in clean drums right after draining. Also, the oil we drain is also drained at recommended mileage, so none of the usual garage horror stories come from them.
With these busses, you go wide open throttle almost everywhere. I'm hoping these higher combustion pressures and temps will help to keep carbon deposits down. (In use, it will be long distance driving. In town, I will run diesel only)
Sounds like a pretty solid plan. The only real issues that come up are injector and precup carbon build up. Have a way to remove and clean the injectors on board.... And go with it. Yes it can be a hassle .. but the savings alone makes it worth while. It also doesn't mean it's something you'll have to do... Just something to plan for.
Could the fact that the viscosity went up on all the samples be because of the centrifuge removed friction additives in the oil?
That I don't know. The additive package wasn't flagged by Shell. There were some minor changes in it as you can see (it's on the 2nd page of the results at the bottom).. but nothing crazy. They didn't give an explanation. I thought, at first, that it was rapid oxidation but the TAN numbers went down.
I always wondered about that. How clean is your oil after you get done with it. It seems to be the thing to do and maybe even the third pass might be the ticket. Great job
All things considered, I'd say it's fairly clean. Lol. Now we still haven't found a way to pull the black out of diesel oil... maybe one day.
Would like to see test of 1 micron sock
I'll see about that in the future
Great work as always. Love seeing the analysis. I'm curious to what, if any changes would be in data after normal filtering on the truck before injection.
Also, I wonder if Blackstone labs could give you any other valuable data.
As for viscosity, was this sent to the lab with a clean (or fresh out of the pump vs old gasoline. As old ethenol gas attracts water which could push the final water number up) gasoline adder as you normally do? You might be doing better than you thought on that front. Would ethanol free gas help with viscosity and lower the water number further. Just thinking....
This sample was nasty contaminated gear oil that we were processing for a company, testing out the centrifuge to see if it would get the job done. It worked great for water and particulate... not so much for the viscosity though.
Can you please tell me the inner diameter of the centrifuges bowl? I am wondering about the g-forces you reach with your bowl. I'm currently building a centrifuge out of an Volvo A40D Dumper Torque Converter, it has an inner diameter of 38cm, at 2800rpm it creates 1665g of centrifugal force. The good thing is though, my bowl is huge. The oil has a lot of staying time in the bowl, so the effective time the oil is affected to the g.forces is a lot higher than in a small bowl like yours.
So maybe I'm just not smart enough to wrap my head around the math... but at a given output flow rate of 2 units (different size bowls)... isn't time in the bowl the same? Now yes input rate would be different... but we measure by output rate... so 5gph... is 5gph... the oil is passing through both bowls at 5 gallons per hour. The only difference is your input rate would be higher than mine to compensate for the larger bowl. I could be way off there though. I've measured the ID but I don't recall off hand. I know it works out to around 4000 Gs @ 6k rpm. With that said, if time in the bowl is actually different for matched output flow rates, the fix is to slow down the flow rate or run multiple passes. Most torque converters can be spun to a fairly high rpm without risk... you could potentially bump that rpm up a fair bit (depending on design of your unit). I know a lot of people belt drive their DIY units and it can be great for setting RPM of the rotor easily.
@@NotSoGrandGarage Lets say your bowl contains 2liters and the flow rate is 2liters per minute. The whole oil in your bowl gets replaced in 1 minute. Lets say my bowl contains 20 liters. The whole oil gets replaced in 10minutes. So each liter of oil gets theoretically 10 minutes of time in the bowl, if you assume it's following the first in first out principle, so it is not mixing..... I always have fear the bowl is exploding, shrapnells flying around and so on, lol
@V8freaks makes sense. Yeah I'd be a little nervous too. That's a lot of metal flinging around.
Very nice. Where can i buy this setup? I can't believe I've been spending a thousand a month on diesel..... for 7 years
www.notsograndgarage.com
Do you know or have lab results for pressure driven unit? How would it compare to this?
I do not... But based on the comparison video O did on them, I'd say it's safe to say that the pressure driven units wouldn't perform nearly as well as even the 3k rpm batch in the lab tests.
@@NotSoGrandGarage So the pressure driven units are not suitable? I wonder why, as they do spin faster dont they? Maybe it has to do with the fact that with gravity feed, you can control how long it stays in the bowl and larger volume.
@@user-lq5jn5sz1w there's multiple issues with them. I ran one for years... They are better than filters... But they are very inefficient. You have to heat the entire drum and you need to run the system looped for 20-40 hours per batch to get any real results. There's no way to vent the unit itself so very little moisture removal from the unit itself.... And there's no way to guarantee all of the oil will go through the unit. With the cost of buying a turn key "kit".. money is better spent on a direct drive unit.
@@NotSoGrandGarage Thanks, those are good points. With gravity feed you can go real slow and how long it spends in the bowl. Good point, that it cant be garunteed it all goes through the unit. It looked like your ran it through your gravity and still pulled out a lot of sludge. I wonder if I could just buy the rotor and motor or use my own motor to keep costs down? for gravity feed.
The rotor setup is sold separately. It's called the "PoBoy" kit for those looking to build their own setup. I have them listed on the website.
did you consider having brand new oil tested so you had a good base point?
Wasn't my call on this run so just the sample straight from the unit and then the cleaning runs were done.
@@NotSoGrandGarage understood. Great info and WMO videos.
@@SquarebodyTruckCamper thanks bud.
Sp are u sayi g the engine oil used stuff needs a centrafugal to get rid of the crap before filtered for it to work prooerly in a diesil?
Need?... Eh... Depends. It will certainly reduce problems.
so are they planning on using this as WMO? or reusing it as oil? so it would be good for black diesel but not good for oil because the viscosity is too far from 150wt?
We ate trying to get a few service intervals out of the oil. Their goal is to put it back in service but can't at the moment because viscosity is out of spec. Half million dollar gear boxes... they want it to be right. 128 or so hours on the oil and it has to be changed.... $2k per oil change.
Into this stuff extremely deep for a very long time not sure how a centrifuge can remove solubles also not sure how a centrifuge can improve or change viscosity that is always done with chemicals viscosity improvers thickening agent Tac agent
Doesn't make sense to me either. We're waiting to see if the company wants to send samples to an independent lab instead of the oil manufacturer.
The only thing I can think of is heat changing the viscosity, however 180 is not nearly as hot as it would be in the engine. Especially considering some oils are rated for 10k + these days.
I have a 2006 Jetta TDI brm engine 200k. I'm in the process of comparing, Valvoline Euro spec, orielly Euro spec and motul which say they all meet the vw requirements. I can say that motul seems to be a noticeable difference in fuel mileage (although temps are cooler and air is better now which could and probably does skew those numbers). However mpg is better by about 4 mpg. Also, it seems to sneak out old gaskets whereas the others did not.
Small back story on motul. I used to ride dirt bikes and that's what I ran in my KTM. Loved it. Actually run it in my weed eaters and gas blowers, anything two stroke for that matter. When I started riding Harley baggers, I ran HD oil, mobil 1 and other expensive oils. Then I decided (since I owned a motorcycle shop and could get it at a discount, and motul is expensive) to run it in my street glide in all 3 holes. At first I questioned myself, and thought I drank the motul kool-aid. Bike actually ran cooler, shifted smoother, and engine noise was quieter. But like with the VW, my Harley had zero leaks. It started giving me a drip here and there out of the primary.
So u could re use it
If the unit would allow for the higher viscosity... yes.
@@NotSoGrandGarage did they give you the viscosity rating mix it with a lower viscosity like a 0wt
@ktmfour1007 they did... but its not my oil, equipment, or call. We'll see what happens soon though
It seems youre only removing water. So your base sample is literally watered down. That is the reason it has less particles per sample volume
Particulates don't evaporate with the water... the water is steamed off... the particulate was left in the bowl (the layer of material stuck to the rotor). It is for sure a wet sample... that's one of the issues they are having.