Damn good job describing everything to a "T", to be honest, my buddybis a Harley mechanic and he was floored by my "knowledge" after viewing your video. He complemented your videos as very detailed and correct. Keep em coming boss!!
I think your videos all four of them was very thorough and I Fink you explain things very well as you went along thank you very much for your videos and if you ever do another one I will definitely pay attention I've learned a lot more than I've already known
ENFIN , de tres bon conseil ,il t informe sur toutes les etapes .LE SEUL TUTO OU ILS UTILISENT UNE CLEF DYNAMOMETRIQUE AVEC LES PRECONISATIONDE COUPLE DE SERRAGE CONSTRUTEUR .ENCORE BRAVO !!!!!
The reason you loosen the compensator nut one full turn is to make sure that the Loctite is not galling the threads before torquing it to final specification. When I installed my Man O War compensator the instructions said to use red Loctite on the compensator bolt and blue Loctite on the clutch.
great Job! video and information excellent. thanks for showing the bloopers (short out the starter n clutch shell in backwards) keep it real ;-) looking for clutch shell replacement as i have a tooth missing on mine. found broken tooth in oil when i did the oil service 😞
Great video series of your repairs and is nice to see a DIY which helps so many people . Keep up the good work and look forward to future bike repair videos.
Great series Matt. Based on the condition of your primary bearing inner race it looks like your tensioner may have over ratcheted. Very common problem with these years.
The problem was the splines in the clutch hub were breaking off. Those broken pieces got into the bearing. I had replaced the tensioner two months prior and should have replaced the hub at the same time. The old tensioner was still good. I just wanted to replace it (30,000 miles).
I like your tools you used to move the bearings.. I was hoping you would see that you were putting the hub on the back of the flywheel instead of in the basket 😕
Nice video. I would not use the same chain tensioner. They have a problem with adjusting up to tight. Not releasing. Sooner or later it will be to tight and start wearing on the transmission bearing.
When reassembling the compensator and clutch hub; is the clutch hub suppose to go all the back against the inner primary then torqued to 70-80 foot pounds. Just wondering
So after you installed the new bearing and race, did that solve your noise issue when the bike free rolled? Im going through the same problem right now on my 09 Ultra
My compensator bolt is not tightening all the way the gear has some play back and fourth any idea why? I torqued down the bolt but still has some play? When I turned on my bike it sounded horrible
Damn good job describing everything to a "T", to be honest, my buddybis a Harley mechanic and he was floored by my "knowledge" after viewing your video. He complemented your videos as very detailed and correct. Keep em coming boss!!
Thank you for your encouragement.
I think your videos all four of them was very thorough and I Fink you explain things very well as you went along thank you very much for your videos and if you ever do another one I will definitely pay attention I've learned a lot more than I've already known
ENFIN , de tres bon conseil ,il t informe sur toutes les etapes .LE SEUL TUTO OU ILS UTILISENT UNE CLEF DYNAMOMETRIQUE AVEC LES PRECONISATIONDE COUPLE DE SERRAGE CONSTRUTEUR .ENCORE BRAVO !!!!!
The reason you loosen the compensator nut one full turn is to make sure that the Loctite is not galling the threads before torquing it to final specification. When I installed my Man O War compensator the instructions said to use red Loctite on the compensator bolt and blue Loctite on the clutch.
good to know
great Job! video and information excellent. thanks for showing the bloopers (short out the starter n clutch shell in backwards) keep it real ;-) looking for clutch shell replacement as i have a tooth missing on mine. found broken tooth in oil when i did the oil service 😞
Matt good video but on the Comp bolt my manual says Red Locktite and I didn't see you check for the slack/tension on your primary chain.
Great video series of your repairs and is nice to see a DIY which helps so many people . Keep up the good work and look forward to future bike repair videos.
I was concerned that I was going into too much detail.
I really liked your ingenuity with timber tools. Good job!
I gotta say thanks for this video. You just help to save me $300.00 labor cost. Very good camera work.
I like the fact of rough polishing the compensator, that is a forged piece, that was an awful lot of materiel removed, can't hurt. I guess ??
Great series Matt! Still laughing. Hope you made it to your ride. Suspense on the final product is killing!
Yes sir
Your a good mechanic and an excellent videographer
Thank you
Great series Matt. Based on the condition of your primary bearing inner race it looks like your tensioner may have over ratcheted. Very common problem with these years.
The problem was the splines in the clutch hub were breaking off. Those broken pieces got into the bearing. I had replaced the tensioner two months prior and should have replaced the hub at the same time. The old tensioner was still good. I just wanted to replace it (30,000 miles).
I like your tools you used to move the bearings.. I was hoping you would see that you were putting the hub on the back of the flywheel instead of in the basket 😕
Nice video. I would not use the same chain tensioner. They have a problem with adjusting up to tight. Not releasing. Sooner or later it will be to tight and start wearing on the transmission bearing.
What would you recommend?
The primary cover is not designed for old school solid mount.
Cold day in Hell before I install a Hayden.
Hi! Thanks for these videos. What year and engine size are this. My clutch is making noise also, and have to do the same.
Your videos are very good, I'm getting a lot of tips.
Thank you
Remember this you are trusting that clicking tool is correct... but with a BEAM style Torque Wench it is spot on every try , and will do reverse..
Nice video series
You’re supposed to start the bike after all that to show all went well? Did all go well?
Yes it did. But the spring of 2022 I totaled the bike hitting a tree.
Did the repair last? If not was it the mainshaft bearing?
There's no audio from 6:27 to 9:41.
Unfortunately the music in the background had to be removed and they removed everything. I plan to create another video that will be shorter.
When reassembling the compensator and clutch hub; is the clutch hub suppose to go all the back against the inner primary then torqued to 70-80 foot pounds. Just wondering
Fantastic. Thank you
One click on the torque wrench ONE.
So did it fix your rattle? I'd would have put money on the comp.
Yes, the noise was the inner primary bearing. I believe it went bad from metal breaking off of the splines in the hub.
@@badmatt4227 Ahh. So it was the clutch hub splines that stripped.
The ends of the splines where breaking off.
So after you installed the new bearing and race, did that solve your noise issue when the bike free rolled? Im going through the same problem right now on my 09 Ultra
Yes, the noise went away after replacing the bearing and recommend inspecting the splines on the clutch hub.
Thank you for the good videos
AWESOME
Just so you know, every time you click a torque wrench more then one time, you are in fact over torqueing the fastener.
I did not know that. Thank you.
My compensator bolt is not tightening all the way the gear has some play back and fourth any idea why? I torqued down the bolt but still has some play? When I turned on my bike it sounded horrible
Your springs are probably not full tensioned anymore and you need to replace all 4
COMPENSATOR!
3:50
What happened to the sound @ 6:30? This is no good w/o the sound. I would give it a thumbs up w/ sound.
Sony did not like the music, tried to remove just the background music and lost everything.