Matt, I'm trying to help you, not troll you or be a know it all. I do this for a living. The easiest and correct way is to take off the transmission right outer cover, and loosen the mainshaft nut, and tap the mainshaft over until you can get the puller in place without grinding it. Now you can lock the transmission by removing the top cover and locking the 2 shift forks into holding the 2 gears or, using the entire clutch pack and hub, to hold the mainshaft nut. You'll need someone to hold the clutch assembly, but it works. I hope this helps.
I tried the whole mainshaft nut deal tonight. It didn’t work for me, I think my race walked too far in an the tool was still too thick to get in the gap. I had to break out the Dremel and score the race almost all the way through and one whack with a chisel the race was cracked and slid off with no marks at all on the shaft. Not a recommended method, but I work with bearings,journals everyday and have literally installed and removed hundreds of bearings in steel mill rolling mill rolls. Sketchy precision is my bag.😂 In my defense I had the proper tool, but just didn’t work this time.
Pull the cover on the trap door, loosen the main shaft nut. Drive the main shaft towards the left side of the bike and your puller will fit. Done it several times.
Take a drivel tool cut a groove in the race, then take a cold punch and tap it until the race cracks, slide it off! Install new race! Use the removal tool plate and a guide to set depth of the race! Done it literally 100 times, work on HD for a living
I like your video. Why not use your race puller as a guide for installing the new race? Seems like it may be easier than messing with them feeler guages?
Shoot I just put the race on the shaft got a piece of PVC pipe about 6"long just big enough to fit around the transmission shaft and tapped the race with the rubber mallet . Race slid rite on .
Swapped mine over to the sealed bearing got rid of that race roller bearing bs and big time difference. I got the tool to take it offand when i put the tool on and hit it with the rachet the whole shi bang just fell off. It was just barely on the shaft. Which is why i was losing so much oil. Can't send a pic here or i would.
@@badmatt4227 This is ironic as hell...I have developed a whining noise it sounded like it was coming from the lower end on my motor but with a auto stethescope I pinpointed the problem down to the bearing I Just installed by All Ballz Racing so Im afraid to say it has failed. BUT...Im gonna spend the $50+ I ordered the BAKER sealed bearing kit and will be installing that this weekend. Its funny how that bearing took a shit right at this time.
Unless you have one of them Harleys which runs silently and 100% without vibrations, that retainer ring will move around ... and block the lubrication hole. Could be why the bearring was busted in the first place.
you are an awesome mechanic. i work on my bike, but not as brave as you do. Do you mind if i drop my 2005 fatboy off at your house, to diagoise the rocks in a jar sound coming from my primary when idling??!!
@@tidoperez8281 yes you're correct. it was a bad spring pack in 05 Softail compensator. Spring packs for that year are commonly known to be garbage! thank you very much
this is of course a technique used for installing the New Race... Kevin747 method works better than beating the puller on. I've also used a Dremel tool to cut the race and shock break it to remove... 6 to one, 1/2 dozen another...
Some optional tools to look at Shifter Shaft Seal Installer www.georges-garage.com/product/shifter-shaft-seal-installer-2/ Main Drive Gear Seal Installer www.georges-garage.com/product/main-drive-gear-seal-installer-2/
Wow ... Really ... all you had to do is remove the transmission trap door on the right side and loosen the main shaft nut; once removed you can use a dead blow hammer or rubber mallet to push out the main shaft about a 1/4" ... then you can use your puller since clearance issue will be resolved. No need for blow torch, hammer or other hack job I just witnessed for removing bearing race!
@@lindacruz7238 If you don't have the tools you probably shouldn't be working on it anyway. I've been fixing my own bikes for 20+ years. There are a few jobs that require "special" tools, but I've been doing it long enough to figure a workaround most of the time.
At what point In time did you NOT need to be mechanically inclined to work on any machine? I have a couple of bikes but my 88 Sportster is probably the easiest thing to work on but you still need to be efficient mechanically have a very good set of tools have a good set of mechanical knowledge on how to get things out that are stuck keep from stripping things twerking things properly etc etc. Also I think you should consider the motorcycle these newer motorcycles with 100 cubic inch engine obviously is going to be a little bit more specialized than a 883 Sportster
Appears you misspelled a word, the first word of your sentence, “you” should actually be the word “I.” For example you would say “I never use power tools.” Because the word “you” wound indicate you trying telling me what to do.
I do not like the constant tension of a Hayden or the price of a Baker. If I had the money I would pick the Baker. For my bike, Stock if better then then Hayden.
@@badmatt4227 will really no difference than the stock and the Hayden pretty much does the same thing they all keep tension on it even the baker even though it’s manually but just not as tight as the stock one are it could do it but one thing for sure I would’ve done regardless after building the primary is changed the compensator to at least SE because if it goes you have to tear it all the way back down with the stock rotor having internal springs
![ลองสุ่มไอโฟน 990 โกงมั้ย? [ โกงมั้ยครับ ep.101 ] | DOM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bfsWe0j492k/mqdefault.jpg)
Matt, I'm trying to help you, not troll you or be a know it all. I do this for a living. The easiest and correct way is to take off the transmission right outer cover, and loosen the mainshaft nut, and tap the mainshaft over until you can get the puller in place without grinding it. Now you can lock the transmission by removing the top cover and locking the 2 shift forks into holding the 2 gears or, using the entire clutch pack and hub, to hold the mainshaft nut. You'll need someone to hold the clutch assembly, but it works. I hope this helps.
Constructive criticism is appreciated.
I tried the whole mainshaft nut deal tonight. It didn’t work for me, I think my race walked too far in an the tool was still too thick to get in the gap. I had to break out the Dremel and score the race almost all the way through and one whack with a chisel the race was cracked and slid off with no marks at all on the shaft. Not a recommended method, but I work with bearings,journals everyday and have literally installed and removed hundreds of bearings in steel mill rolling mill rolls. Sketchy precision is my bag.😂 In my defense I had the proper tool, but just didn’t work this time.
That only works on 5 speeds.
Hi 👋, Very nice job, I am in the process of changing my final drive belt on a Deuce 2003, that I have just purchased,
The tool you used to remove the inner race can be used as a stop on installing the new inner race.
The tool is only .080 thick
Weird my Harley tool is .120
Pull the cover on the trap door, loosen the main shaft nut. Drive the main shaft towards the left side of the bike and your puller will fit. Done it several times.
Yea, you will have to do this, except the part of loosening the main shaft nut, to replace clutch cable so don't fret it is not hard
Do you just put it in gear to lock it when you loosen that nut?
Take a drivel tool cut a groove in the race, then take a cold punch and tap it until the race cracks, slide it off! Install new race! Use the removal tool plate and a guide to set depth of the race! Done it literally 100 times, work on HD for a living
..us the tool that pulled the race off as the depth gauge .. seat it snug and then tap off the tool
I like your video. Why not use your race puller as a guide for installing the new race? Seems like it may be easier than messing with them feeler guages?
Maybe next time.
Excellent video
Bel Lavoro, complimenti
shoot! that race was stuck! great job of explaining the process. like the video and the information
Shoot I just put the race on the shaft got a piece of PVC pipe about 6"long just big enough to fit around the transmission shaft and tapped the race with the rubber mallet . Race slid rite on .
Want to mess your bike up? Follow this guy.
Swapped mine over to the sealed bearing got rid of that race roller bearing bs and big time difference. I got the tool to take it offand when i put the tool on and hit it with the rachet the whole shi bang just fell off. It was just barely on the shaft. Which is why i was losing so much oil. Can't send a pic here or i would.
What brand? I am thinking of changing.
@@badmatt4227 all balls racing
@@badmatt4227 amazon has em
@@tmarx88 I found this article, what are your thoughts? www.remotemoto.com/articles/all-balls-racing-products-motorbike-bearings/review-53/
@@badmatt4227 This is ironic as hell...I have developed a whining noise it sounded like it was coming from the lower end on my motor but with a auto stethescope I pinpointed the problem down to the bearing I Just installed by All Ballz Racing so Im afraid to say it has failed. BUT...Im gonna spend the $50+ I ordered the BAKER sealed bearing kit and will be installing that this weekend. Its funny how that bearing took a shit right at this time.
Unless you have one of them Harleys which runs silently and 100% without vibrations, that retainer ring will move around ... and block the lubrication hole. Could be why the bearring was busted in the first place.
No, that was not the reason why. The spline in the hub was breaking apart and metal pieces ruined the bearing.
? What's a shamford side . I just changed my primery race and both sides look the same so I just put it on .
I would have changed the shifter seal as long as you were right there.
Sorry, I missed recording that.
Did you change the main baron in the transmission I didn't see that part
Wait, according to my service manual 2009 (Street Glide) the 5 inner primary bolt should be replaced
Agreed.
This is different noise I got I only hear a clunk when I let off gas in first gear bad other gears not so bad of noise.
Nice video work
Your bearing puller/press. What brand is it and where can I find it
Same question here. I could not find the inner primary bearing remover/installer with the slot on the side. Where did you get it?
you have aviation maintenance experience by chance??
No
So what was making the noise the bearing the compensator which one
I believe it was the main bearing in the transmission.
Question if the inner race slips down on the shaft will it case the primary chain to start rubbing?
No, I don't think it will.
It'll leak oil like a siv
you are an awesome mechanic. i work on my bike, but not as brave as you do. Do you mind if i drop my 2005 fatboy off at your house, to diagoise the rocks in a jar sound coming from my primary when idling??!!
I believe your bike has a similar issue.
You might have a bad compensating sprocket too. Do hear a clunk when you turn the bike off? Look into a Compensating Sprocket Eliminator.
@@tidoperez8281 yes you're correct. it was a bad spring pack in 05 Softail compensator. Spring packs for that year are commonly known to be garbage! thank you very much
use a washer that measures .100"
What do you mean a 100" washer?
@@badmatt4227 the distance between the inner race and Main Drive gear is .100"-.125"
the washer will fit right in between race and MDG to measure instead of using feeler guage. .100" measured
this is of course a technique used for installing the New Race... Kevin747 method works better than beating the puller on. I've also used a Dremel tool to cut the race and shock break it to remove... 6 to one, 1/2 dozen another...
My 2009 crossbones is making a hooting
hooting sound
Help
Can you record it, upload, and share the link?
Hi, where can I find the puller that you used for pulling out the inner primary bearing ? Thanks
This is what I used amzn.to/3kRRrER.
Some optional tools to look at
Shifter Shaft Seal Installer
www.georges-garage.com/product/shifter-shaft-seal-installer-2/
Main Drive Gear Seal Installer
www.georges-garage.com/product/main-drive-gear-seal-installer-2/
@@badmatt4227 thank you
Why didn’t you replace that sleeve with a high torque one piece bearing?
Do you have a link you can show me?
@@badmatt4227
th-cam.com/video/DMtECQSniRY/w-d-xo.html
@@waltercheeks5309 Thanks, amzn.to/32kJ6CY
That should slide on easily. You need to open the trap door on other side heat the shaft and hit it with a rubber mallet.
Hey Walter, less then a year and I am hearing primary bearing noise again.
Where can I get those Angeled feeler gauge?
Like any auto parts store
Use the tools properly and they won’t bend or break
Wow ... Really ... all you had to do is remove the transmission trap door on the right side and loosen the main shaft nut; once removed you can use a dead blow hammer or rubber mallet to push out the main shaft about a 1/4" ... then you can use your puller since clearance issue will be resolved. No need for blow torch, hammer or other hack job I just witnessed for removing bearing race!
It's sad when you have to be a MMI mechanic to own a Harley. Sad.
Interesting because Harley's are easy to work on.
@@badmatt4227 how do you figure that ?
Special tools; just a start.
@@lindacruz7238 If you don't have the tools you probably shouldn't be working on it anyway. I've been fixing my own bikes for 20+ years. There are a few jobs that require "special" tools, but I've been doing it long enough to figure a workaround most of the time.
At what point In time did you NOT need to be mechanically inclined to work on any machine? I have a couple of bikes but my 88 Sportster is probably the easiest thing to work on but you still need to be efficient mechanically have a very good set of tools have a good set of mechanical knowledge on how to get things out that are stuck keep from stripping things twerking things properly etc etc. Also I think you should consider the motorcycle these newer motorcycles with 100 cubic inch engine obviously is going to be a little bit more specialized than a 883 Sportster
@@BaronvonOldenbiker Agreed. I usually start by opening up the cam chest and chunking all the HD JUNK.
wena compare
Use a crayon and heat
you never use power tool,s.
Appears you misspelled a word, the first word of your sentence, “you” should actually be the word “I.”
For example you would say “I never use power tools.”
Because the word “you” wound indicate you trying telling me what to do.
Save yourself this hassle again...autotensioner bye bye....hayden tensioner or baker attitude adjuster.
I do not like the constant tension of a Hayden or the price of a Baker. If I had the money I would pick the Baker. For my bike, Stock if better then then Hayden.
Twin power makes one too...don't know the cost though. Anything to get away from autotensioners that have the potential to over rachet.
I installed the Hayden on my 2010 Superglide C and couldn't be happier. Checked it several times and its perfect.
@@badmatt4227 will really no difference than the stock and the Hayden pretty much does the same thing they all keep tension on it even the baker even though it’s manually but just not as tight as the stock one are it could do it but one thing for sure I would’ve done regardless after building the primary is changed the compensator to at least SE because if it goes you have to tear it all the way back down with the stock rotor having internal springs
Don't watch this guy unless you want to hack up your bike
Exactly what I was thinking. Don't know shit.
Harleys are noisy