Building a Solid Twin Cam 103 Part 1
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ม.ค. 2023
- In this episode, I assemble the cases, cam chest and measure the pistons for installation in this stout Harley-Davidson 103 cubic inch twin cam. The parts list includes a S&S Crankshaft, Woods Cams, Feuling Lifters and CP Carrillo 10.75:1 Pistons.
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Thanks for sharing . You do great work my friend.
Subscribed. Can't wait for part 2. Nice one matey.
Hell yes mate, im looking at bullet proofing my 103. and this video is helping me understand what i need to do to make my engine run for longer and stronger! SKAL!!
I've got a 16 Road Glide Ultra with the 103 HO. It had 84,000 and some change miles on it when I bought it in September, and I've put about 3,000 on it so far. It came with a stack of maintenance records, and all it has had engine related other than oil changes was a few seals here and there. It runs like a new engine, still has plenty of power and is quite. As long as you keep up on the maintenance and don't thrash the hell out of it they'll run a long time.
New subscriber, great job explaining the process !
Awesome! Thank you!
Also looking forward to part 2 I have same set up except with a 625 tman cam Repairing front head seal’s this winter and maybe a different cam
I'm working on editing it now. Thanks for the support
Loctite 515 is the go for joining cases. It doesn't go hard if squeezed out. So no issue with debris, cleans up easy.
I've never used it. The threebond 1211 has never failed me. Ill get a tube of 515 and check it out.
Be careful applying any goop.
What squeezes out is also squeezing in.
Those products are most likely harmful to your oil.
I am a big fan of paste sealers, but after ten years in the field selling lubricants and consulting on used oil analysis, I have seen the oil sample reports.
@@markobrien678-That’s why 3 Bond is the best. If it gets squeezed into the engine it simply disintegrates.
A mason jar with a barb fitting through the lid and a hand vacuum pump (like for bleeding brakes) works great to prelube lifters.
That sounds like a great idea. I will try that
I found that lube outside dont pre fill let the running engine fill it
I wish I could do all this …I want to do a frame up build just to learn every nut and bolt of a twin cam
There is plenty of information on you tube. Get a service manual. You can do it!
What does do u need building this motor
Thank you for this episode, I would have liked to see the run-out on this brand new setup, I heard a lot about the good quality of S&S cranks also, this being a high compression build would have been a good idea to install Tinker bearings? I enjoy your videos, thank you.
Thanks for the support. This motor was a rebuild after a lifter failure. Timkin bearings, especially on a Twin Cam, are always the best choice. The budget for this build did not allow it though..
Novice here , you can easily see here that the HD is a Radial Engine ! Hydraulic Lifters too .
Timken
Timkin was bought out by the Chinese. Just so you know.😢
Got that brand new crank. Press fit or welded? And the gear drive question just begs to asked?
You can easily make your own vacuum tool for lifters.
Thanks. I’ve had a lot of luck lately using the oil can
Good video, What is the Woods cam grind Number being used for 10.75 CR
That cam is the tw-999-6a
This was awesome, you broke it down and built it up in good due form. My question for you is, what can I suggest to the dealership mechanic that is installing a short block on my 96 cube twin cam that has upgrades. I don't want the stock cam bearings, with plastic girdles and there are probably other things.
The situation is that my bike is a 07 FatBoy, 96 cubes , bumped upnto a 1550 cc , screaming eagle 21/20 cams , high flow air breater , and two into one Bassonni pipes, plus a screaming eagle throttle body. I bought this bike with 40 k on the od and brought it back for a leak in the primary case, but they found the crank shaft to be bent. The service manager is involved and took it on as his project. He seems to be a stand up dude. I want to throw some dollers into this while it's apart. I worry that he will be held to certain constraints. What can I do to see it through four at least four years of hard running? And then trade it in or possibly keep it ? Subscribed, now
Screaming eagle parts are really good. I would press for a full compliment inner cam bearing. And make sure the runout of the new crank is very low, close to 0.001 or less”. Harley spec is crazy high like 0.012” Everything else from Harley should be pretty reliable.
@@empcycleworks I appreciate your time and advice ,brother! You do have a passion for it! I never had such interest in watching a motor get put together until I saw you doing your thing.
Nice set up but you should gone with all s and s parts fueling wont hold up as long as s and s parts will but thy do cost more.
Thanks. But I have seen both s&s and feuling parts fail.
Would you use 3bond 1211 for base gasket on a Evolution engine?
Yes I would. I do it all the time on Milwaukee 8 motors
New to the Harley world and considering a 2014 Electra Glide so have a few questions. That S&S crank looks up to be an $1800 part and doesn't appear to have a welded crank pin. What makes it so much better than getting the OEM crank trued and welded?
Also, what's the failure rate on the OEM crank? When can a person expect there to be an excessive runout problem if the bike remains stock?
Btw, looks like it's not too much trouble to remove the engine, based on what I see in your video. That true?
The crank pin is plugged in the s&s for more strength. Stock cranks have a cap on the pin.
Depends on a lot of factors for longevity. How you ride and power lever are major factors. Driving in to low an rpm.
It’s really not that bad to remove the engine
You have make sure the oil pump is centered, what does that tell you about the pinion shaft runout, are you going to check it, ever?
New s&s crank had 0.001” runout at the pinion. The oil pump was centered.
Monster lmfao you all must be dreaming.but I like the build.
What about a Timkin bearing modification on the crank?
This engine did not get a timkin upgrade due to budget reasons.
I don’t know if it’s the camera but your crank looks like it has a lot of run out. When you put the cam plate in and you were spinning the motor I could see the crank moving up and down.
I think you are looking at the rubber protector on the end of the pinion shaft. It was not on there centered and moves were wildly when it is spun. The crank had about 0.001” installed runout at the pinion
@@empcycleworks I knew I was seeing things, who builds an engine with that kind of run out. Keep up the great work and pay no attention to the peanut gallery .
What made you decide to keep the stock cam plate? Do you have to check the run-out if you're installing chain driven cams, or is that only for gear driven cams?
Budget is why we kept the stock cam plate. With the fueling oil pump and lifters, the oiling system is adequate.
Anytime you are in the cam chest I recommend checking the pinion runout. It is critical for oil pump operation.
No gasket between the engine cases? Just gasket sealant.
Does this casing has the timken bearings preinstalled?
This case was not converted to a timkin bearing
Did you have to take the rear wheel off to get the oil pan out? The engine is removed so wouldn't it come out the front easier?
You can get it out through the front with the engine out. I don’t remember why I had the rear wheel off
@@empcycleworks ok thank you for the info!! Had a crank bearing eat itself so I'm going to pull mine to be sure and clean it all out good.
WOOF!
I'm curious, can anyone ballpark the cost of a build like this?
Depending on the parts 5 to 7 k
Do those flywheels come already balanced?
Not for a specific piston weight
TY@@empcycleworks
you split the cases and didn't do a timkin bearing conversion?
Budgets don’t always allow for that. Plus I don’t think it is necessary
@empcycleworks if you don't mind getting in the bottom every time you do the top end probably not. i like to do about two to one. I think thats why i had a half a million miles on my shovelhead.
Is that a stock cam plate?
Yes it is
How much for that set up?
Depends on a few factors. Year and model of the bike to start with
Whats the cost of that
This one was about 6500 Tuned
No CR-570?
Not in this engine. I rebuilt the engine as close to it was as possible.
Why would you do all this work and upgrades and put a stock cam plate back in the motor?
maybe it’s newer style that was improved
Budget. Also, at this power lever I think the stock cam plate is fine.
I didn't, by any chance, see crankshaft runout at 9:50 as it was spinning in the cam plate?
Stock cam plate is fine unless you're building a drag racing engine
@@cj8172 It might be fine but there are better ones that are stronger ect...
Why build a 103 when there is bigger and better?💪🏼👊🏼
103 is a great motor, so ask why bother rebuilding a 59 panhead or a knuckle? Dumb question right?
@@user-zg2hh9bo3w no.
The motors you build come blown
total cost?
Really depends on the setup
So all of this, but you didn't do the TIMKEN BEARING upgrade? This should last all of a week.
Timkin upgrade was not in the budget for this build. There are plenty of 100k mile twin cams in the road with the stock roller bearing setup.
Can I just ask one question? (No, that wasn't it!)
Why build this engine and put the $$$ into it, only to install those cam chain tensioners with plastic shoes?
Why not gear driven cams?
You're adding an S&S crank, Feuling oil pump... And then those stock cam tensioners with the plastic shoes!
I had a Heritage Softail, with the twin cam 88... But I sold it, because of those plastic shoes!
"Oh you can get 50K miles out of them. Or 5K out of them... Depends on how you ride it..."
I used to break out in a cold sweat, every time I cranked that engine up, because of plastics being applied to high speed moving parts inside the engine...
It doesn't make sense at all.
It comes down to the budget. Gear drive cams are more money.
@@empcycleworks True... But how much cost goes into having to replace crappy parts, because they ware down?
And how long will you trust plastic tensioner shoes on a fast moving metal timing chain?
The stock crank, is two flywheels pressed together at the bearing for the connecting rods.
Because they are pressed together, they can, "and do," shift from one another.
Enough shift and it creates problems for the pistons, the jugs, the connecting rod, the bearings, and for the 'runout,' of the pinion shaft, that drives the oil pump.
"Dark Horse," was mentioned in this video.
They also make a crankshaft that is tuned and balanced, and then it's welded, so that it can't shift side to side.
I could just keep going. But my point is, HD 'stock, OEM parts,' are CRAP!
One step up from OEM, is 'Screaming Eagle.' They are HD parts, but they are of somewhat better quality than OEM.
I tell folks, if you're gonna spend the money to buy an HD, then spend the money to have it completely overhauled and rebuilt with aftermarket parts that are WAY better than HD will ever provide in their machines.
Do that, and consider it a 'long term investment,' that will serve you for years to come, 'knowing,' you got something better than what you saw sitting in a showroom...
and the cost .out the door is.....???????
Depends on what you have and what you want
That engine is not solid with stock anything in the cam chest. Especially the stock pump and cam plate. The SE cam plate and oil pump are not any better. Word to the wise get rid of it and install fueling or S&S oil pump and cam plate.
Thank you
Baisley pop off valve and zippers pop off valve spring. Crank runout should not exceed 0.003 if it does then the pile of problems just got higher. I do recommend Atlas cranks and TC 88 engines from 99-02.They were designed with higher tolerances since HD wanted the TC to have gear drive cams. EPA shit on that and so Harley shoved a chain in there that could handle a sloppy crank. So they stopped shimming the cranks.
I was 23 when I bought my Dyna in 1999. It is badged as a 2000 so I have the better brakes.
Edelbrock heads
Jims roller rocker and roller lifters
Jims titanium pushrods
S&S 625 gear drive cams
95" jugs cut 0.010
J&E 10.5 to 1 forgered pistons
Mikuni HSR 45
Forcewinder intake
Thunderheader
SE brain rev limited to 6200
Fueling pump and plate
Zippers spring
Baisley valve
All Balz primary bearing
Mobil 1 20W50 V-twin oil
Royal purple transmission gear oil
ATF in the primary
Avon venom tires
Light to light I blow the fairings off liter bikes.
Top speed unknown after 120 my needle floats back and forth.
Sure is fun to ride.
Not bullet proof with that cam plate.
Harley engines have all gotten too large. A 96 inch motor for a motorcycle is enormous. None of us are pulling school busses out of the mud. Pick nearly any 750+ cc crotch rocket motor and put it in a rigid frame and you'll have a faster bike in similar style.
350 Hondas used to be "big bikes" and 500cc up Triumphs were massive. Harley's always been oversized.
Don't get me wrong, I still love all of them, I just think there's something being missed being missed chasing after 100ci plus mills.
It's a screw...A screw is a screw until you put a nut on it, then it's bolt, come on man.
Thanks for the correction