There are some other options that might be easier, though adding to the drying time, though I've normally done them for making statues for diorama and wargaming terrain. I tend to go for a more red bronze rather than the more golden side, mainly using craft paints to do it. Prime in black, then a dark brown, then an overbrush of a metallic copper, then a drybrush of a darker gold. At that point it's brighter, but you follow that up with a wash...I just use a simple watered down brown acryllic artists ink (Burnt Umber or Chestnut...mixed with a little bit of black if it looks to bright), and go over the entire thing, and then use a rag or brush to wipe it off of places I don't like it. When it dries, I go back to the copper and gold in some places with a very light drybrush to add more highlights, and often a bit of a brighter gold in some points as well if I want it to shine more. Then I use a different mix for the patina, largely the same kind of thing you did, but add rubbing alcohol to it to thin it even more, this adds a very different look to how the paint settles in the end and looks more like a natural patina with where it sticks.
You might arguably be the best sculptor in this modern day Lol the amount of knowledge you have being so young is so rare! Did you learn from a mentor or self taught? Absolutely incredible talent.
Oh wow! The whole process was just so relaxing to watch. 😊 Never knew it needed that many layers of paint. Awesome work as always. 👏Have you done any work on how to make the blade of a prop sword look like actual metal? (without using actual metal) Like a certain technique with paints (or other materials) that gives the prop a shiny mirror metal look. Because just using regular silver paint doesn't give off that LOOK and using aluminum foil looks odd when it wrinkles. LOL! I have no idea if that made sense 🤣
If you're using something that's relatively smooth for the blade, one of the best materials is to go to the hardware store. Look for aluminum ducting tape (not duct tape), and apply it to the parts you want. The stuff goes down really well for it if you're careful, because the stuff sticks to everything, just be careful about getting bubbles out and not having it stick to itself as you go. Learned that from one of Adam Savages videos about making some wooden, toy swords look real on Tested several years ago, it works for just about anything if you don't have massive amounts of crazy detail work to work around.
I am so glad to see all the compliments youre getting....arguably the best sculptor!? Thats so cool. I wouldnt know lol. Im glad cos I have to drop a little bomb....more like a grenade. The patina is much too inconsistent. No I dont think it should be green everywhere but its missing a natutal effect by going from green to none. There will be areas that have more patina than others in nature but the intensity should fade away from those areas leaving no areas completely barren . Oxidation wont occur on one area and not at all two inches away.
Thank you, I have only just found your channel and after watching 2 videos I have subscribed already ! Your style of making videos and good clear instructions are perfect to understand 😁 would love to see more on how to assemble resin peices together, fix damage to an art peice even mold making and casting 😀 such an inspiration, keep up the good work while I'm going to watch more of your videos and tell my friends what a great channel I've found 😍
Yaptıklarına hayranım . Ben de ilk defa yapmaya başlayacağım muhtemelen seni örnek alacağım muhteşem işler yapıyorsun. Gelecekte seninle tanışmak istiyorum 😁😁😁
It looks good, but while you specify your spray paint colors, you don’t mention the colors/color blends used to create the dark aging and patina colors.
I painted a sculpt this way years ago. I used flat black spray paint,copper acrylic and blue grass green for the patina. If I got to much green in one place I just painted on some flat black then copper and green again.
![[Full Episode] The Restaurant War Thailand ศึกพ่อค้าซ่าแม่ค้าแซ่บ Episode 2 | 29 ก.ย. 67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/r3lfLNH6Ke4/mqdefault.jpg)
oh my gosh! This was so fascinating. Awesome.
this channel is gold !
There are some other options that might be easier, though adding to the drying time, though I've normally done them for making statues for diorama and wargaming terrain.
I tend to go for a more red bronze rather than the more golden side, mainly using craft paints to do it. Prime in black, then a dark brown, then an overbrush of a metallic copper, then a drybrush of a darker gold. At that point it's brighter, but you follow that up with a wash...I just use a simple watered down brown acryllic artists ink (Burnt Umber or Chestnut...mixed with a little bit of black if it looks to bright), and go over the entire thing, and then use a rag or brush to wipe it off of places I don't like it. When it dries, I go back to the copper and gold in some places with a very light drybrush to add more highlights, and often a bit of a brighter gold in some points as well if I want it to shine more.
Then I use a different mix for the patina, largely the same kind of thing you did, but add rubbing alcohol to it to thin it even more, this adds a very different look to how the paint settles in the end and looks more like a natural patina with where it sticks.
My gosh where have u been my whole life
You might arguably be the best sculptor in this modern day Lol the amount of knowledge you have being so young is so rare! Did you learn from a mentor or self taught? Absolutely incredible talent.
Doabronze siren
I would love to see you make a dragon or jewellery piece.
Oh wow! The whole process was just so relaxing to watch. 😊 Never knew it needed that many layers of paint. Awesome work as always. 👏Have you done any work on how to make the blade of a prop sword look like actual metal? (without using actual metal) Like a certain technique with paints (or other materials) that gives the prop a shiny mirror metal look. Because just using regular silver paint doesn't give off that LOOK and using aluminum foil looks odd when it wrinkles. LOL! I have no idea if that made sense 🤣
If you're using something that's relatively smooth for the blade, one of the best materials is to go to the hardware store. Look for aluminum ducting tape (not duct tape), and apply it to the parts you want. The stuff goes down really well for it if you're careful, because the stuff sticks to everything, just be careful about getting bubbles out and not having it stick to itself as you go.
Learned that from one of Adam Savages videos about making some wooden, toy swords look real on Tested several years ago, it works for just about anything if you don't have massive amounts of crazy detail work to work around.
NO, YOU MADE NO SENSE !
Extremely realistic statuary bronze finish- thank you!
I am so glad to see all the compliments youre getting....arguably the best sculptor!? Thats so cool. I wouldnt know lol.
Im glad cos I have to drop a little bomb....more like a grenade.
The patina is much too inconsistent. No I dont think it should be green everywhere but its missing a natutal effect by going from green to none.
There will be areas that have more patina than others in nature but the intensity should fade away from those areas leaving no areas completely barren .
Oxidation wont occur on one area and not at all two inches away.
Can I ask what type of glue did you use to assemble your pieces? Your final piece was amazingly done!
Aged white to make it look like and old sculpture...
I'd love to see the sculping process on that one 😍
...anyone have a link? 😐
I was quite in fear in using dremel when that happens 0:20.. Happens multiple times when the saw got loosen..
Would love to see a video on assembling and seaming! Excellent work
That is beautiful, you are a great artist... Subscribed! 💖
A very nice work of art, I wish you a successful artistic career, greetings from Morocco 🇲🇦.
Extremely well done. Congratulations. Thanks.
Amazing
Thank you, I have only just found your channel and after watching 2 videos I have subscribed already ! Your style of making videos and good clear instructions are perfect to understand 😁 would love to see more on how to assemble resin peices together, fix damage to an art peice even mold making and casting 😀 such an inspiration, keep up the good work while I'm going to watch more of your videos and tell my friends what a great channel I've found 😍
I love ur artworks so much much much 🙏♥️ pls more pretty videos 🥰
We've recommended this video to a few people who wanted to make thir Pal Tiya Premium creations look like this - many thanks
What is the green patina color?
Sofia, this is EPIC 😮😍
Yaptıklarına hayranım . Ben de ilk defa yapmaya başlayacağım muhtemelen seni örnek alacağım muhteşem işler yapıyorsun. Gelecekte seninle tanışmak istiyorum 😁😁😁
Amazing
thank you for this i didn't know what to do for my intermediate 3d figure project. This helped so much your the best.
👍👍👍😉 sehr schöner effekt !!!
Fantastic!!!!!! More on the sculpture itself pretty please....❤
awesome, thank you!!! i love creating aged effects
Is this sculpture for sale ? 😊
What was this sculpture made of ? Air dry clay or?
Hi Ann. This was sculpted from plasticine (Chavant medium), then molded i silicone and cast in resin.
😃👍
UK loves you.
It looks good, but while you specify your spray paint colors, you don’t mention the colors/color blends used to create the dark aging and patina colors.
I painted a sculpt this way years ago. I used flat black spray paint,copper acrylic and blue grass green for the patina. If I got to much green in one place I just painted on some flat black then copper and green again.
brilliant!!! That looks brilliant.
Too much painting to wipe it all off.