It is VERY important to pack the bearings completely with the grease before you install it on the shaft. Just applying the grease to the surface is not enough. The joint is guaranteed to fail if it is not packed! Also, Install the boot clamp after the joint is completely assembled. This way you don't run the risk of stretching the boot front to back and/ or twisting the boot to line up the mounting holes
That NAG1 trans also had shuddering torque converters due to a dipstick design flaw that allowed very small amounts of water to enter that would start with a vibration and get worse to a severe shudder at overdrive. It was the jeep wk both engines
YIKES, Word of wisdom for anyone coming after me... The actual bearing only goes in one way. My dumbass thought it was the same on both sides so I ended up having to pull it apart and redo it. You know that you have it on backwards because you won't able to get the ring clip back on very well....... ALSO the overall sealing of the joint does not seem that good so after packing the grease I went ahead and used RTV silicone to make sure it stays sealed.
Should have changed the u-joint as well thats probably causing the rumble and vibration u heard and felt on the test drive. Did u have an annoying scraping noise before replacing the cv joint? Just curious
I would get some matched nuts and washers to use the 6 bolts to squeeze the caps on evenly, then with a punch I think you could crimp around the flange. Properly packing the bearings with grease is a good idea too. :) This is my next project, considering a new shaft is ~$600 at my parts store.
friend I have a grand Cherokee laredo 2007 3.7 and when I reach a speed of 100 k / H a buzz grabs him and if I pass that speed it takes away you think it is the cv joint
You need to pack the bearing. That is extremely important. Next, if you have to bang the bearing in, there is something wrong. These two combinations can have an adverse effect on the bearing.
Hi Aaron. Thank you for making this video. Would you get the row rumble only while accelerating and it goes away while coasting at 60-70MPH Thats what my 2005 Grand Cherokee is doing and wondering if its the same issue that you had.
Replacing the CV joint didn't fix my problem. Replacing the front differential mount improved the vibration, but I believe that the root cause is the front wheel bearings. I'm going to tackle those this weekend.
Hi Mike. I'm having the same issue as you. 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Rumbling on acceleration only between 60-70 mph. Rumbling goes away if I let go of the gas. Did you figure out what the issue was?
No. My vibration was either the front differential or the transmission. The dried grease blob in the rear driveshaft contributed to the vibration though.
just saw your video and really found it informative. i was wondering if you could have done without using the pliers on the part but instead used a small deadblow hammer or even used the bolts to close it up slowly.
That joint doesn’t turn. It rotates. You’re thinking of the CV axles an the sides of the differential. If it’s clicking when turning, replace faulty part.
So there's a Dorman brand rebuild kit for around 100-115 bucks online but there are also other rebuild kits which pretty much look the same but are not Dorman and around 50 to 60 bucks. Whats your opinion on this?
Very interesting and informative. SOme constructive vriticism though : Hammering a screwdriver @ 5:40 ?! You'll split the handle, use a small chisel! Also, @10:10 you are using the wrong type of snap-ring (I call it a circlip) pliers. Yours are for internal circlips; with external circlip pliers you could have done it one-handed easily. @19:00 the real problem with hose clamps is that they are seriously out of balance for a rotating task. @24:40, use a copper mallet and/or drift; a wood cushion will deliver dust splinters and crap into the joint - PS @25:30 that happened after I wrote that it would! No room for a socket @38:00 - you should use a ring spanner. @36:36 you refer to the kit bolts correctly as Allen head, but at 40:10 you are using a Torx on them! Way to chew them up! Should use an Allen drive bit. @44:35 no neutral on a Quadradive II ?! ... there is a button for neutral by the Lo ratio switch - as long as you have not had the cursed N23 recall which disables it.
good constructive criticism. I tried researching the pliers you mentioned on amazon but could not find the ones that reverse-open. About to tackle this , this morning. I didn't know about the neutral button. I just put the car in run, and shifted into neutral.
why in the world would they put a hole in the cap? that seems pretty dumb .your grease can get squeezed out during operation . does the original part have a weep hole?
I have this problem with my truck and can't seems to be able to find out whats wrong with it, whenever i am driving as long my feet is in the gas the whole front of the car start shaking but as soon i let go of the gas no-more shaking any idea of what it could be
i have the same problem As soon as I get to 55 mph and idle the noise comes on, little viabration , if I let go of the accelerator its gone and it completely disappears at 70 mph, I think i can hear the noise coming from the right front tire, Its really hard to tell
Im having the same issue in my 06 cherokee limited I can feel a vibration in my accelerator pedal its kinda annoying. It starts at like 15 mph and will go in and out till 55 mph and then stops above that
Hola tengo un jeep grand cherokee del 2005 un 4.7 h.o y m rompe las transmisiones central k puedo Acer y como Acer lo me An dicho de poner una de cruceta se puede y como Acer lo gracian
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It is VERY important to pack the bearings completely with the grease before you install it on the shaft. Just applying the grease to the surface is not enough. The joint is guaranteed to fail if it is not packed! Also, Install the boot clamp after the joint is completely assembled. This way you don't run the risk of stretching the boot front to back and/ or twisting the boot to line up the mounting holes
This is very well done and informative. I've watched a few others that just don't give much information but Kudos for a well done video.
That NAG1 trans also had shuddering torque converters due to a dipstick design flaw that allowed very small amounts of water to enter that would start with a vibration and get worse to a severe shudder at overdrive. It was the jeep wk both engines
Now this is how you make a proper video! working on a part! Thanks! Reading the comments for a few other helpful hints.
MrNurseInColorado glad it helps!! I put the boot clamp on too early in the video fyi
YIKES, Word of wisdom for anyone coming after me... The actual bearing only goes in one way. My dumbass thought it was the same on both sides so I ended up having to pull it apart and redo it. You know that you have it on backwards because you won't able to get the ring clip back on very well....... ALSO the overall sealing of the joint does not seem that good so after packing the grease I went ahead and used RTV silicone to make sure it stays sealed.
@@AaronCrabtree I have a vibration in 2 wheel going yes at 55 is it turning in2 wheel drive . Thanks
Should have changed the u-joint as well thats probably causing the rumble and vibration u heard and felt on the test drive. Did u have an annoying scraping noise before replacing the cv joint? Just curious
You CAN put the Driveline into Neutral. You need a pen and push the tiny detent button next to the 4wd speed selector.
Really appreciate the video and explanations. About to try this in the coming days as my cv is shot just as bad as yours. Thank you for posting this.
thanks for the video. i replaced mine today then drove her 130 miles, works excellent j
You could try readjusting you sr pliers to open when squeezed, that would help! But good job with the tutorial
I would get some matched nuts and washers to use the 6 bolts to squeeze the caps on evenly, then with a punch I think you could crimp around the flange. Properly packing the bearings with grease is a good idea too. :) This is my next project, considering a new shaft is ~$600 at my parts store.
Hi I'm Aaron one of Mrs. Crabtree's 3rd grade 2015-2016 students
Hi Aaron! Mrs Crabtree is a great teacher!
+Aaron Crabtree (:
I have a vibration that starts about 45mph has new tires and new rotors I can’t figure out if it’s the front or rear driveshaft.
before it breacks maybe grease them with needle ?
How much$?
friend I have a grand Cherokee laredo 2007 3.7 and when I reach a speed of 100 k / H a buzz grabs him and if I pass that speed it takes away you think it is the cv joint
Thank you from Spain
You need to pack the bearing. That is extremely important. Next, if you have to bang the bearing in, there is something wrong. These two combinations can have an adverse effect on the bearing.
That joint is a dorman I would recommend a punch and chisel set also a hose clamp works just as well
He has never ever worked "flat rate" LOL HUGE difference in DIY and for a living. So buy reman and will be balanced and come with a limited warranty.
Hi Aaron. Thank you for making this video. Would you get the row rumble only while accelerating and it goes away while coasting at 60-70MPH Thats what my 2005 Grand Cherokee is doing and wondering if its the same issue that you had.
Replacing the CV joint didn't fix my problem. Replacing the front differential mount improved the vibration, but I believe that the root cause is the front wheel bearings. I'm going to tackle those this weekend.
Ok! Good luck!
Ok! Good luck!
I just solved it. It was the rear drive shaft. My explanation is here: th-cam.com/video/b234Z8AgZcw/w-d-xo.html
Hi Mike. I'm having the same issue as you. 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Rumbling on acceleration only between 60-70 mph. Rumbling goes away if I let go of the gas. Did you figure out what the issue was?
I see that you also did the rear driveshaft do you think that was what was causing the vibration problems initially?
No. My vibration was either the front differential or the transmission. The dried grease blob in the rear driveshaft contributed to the vibration though.
just saw your video and really found it informative. i was wondering if you could have done without using the pliers on the part but instead used a small deadblow hammer or even used the bolts to close it up slowly.
Did you notice a clicking sound when turning at any point before it was fixed?
That joint doesn’t turn. It rotates. You’re thinking of the CV axles an the sides of the differential. If it’s clicking when turning, replace faulty part.
So there's a Dorman brand rebuild kit for around 100-115 bucks online but there are also other rebuild kits which pretty much look the same but are not Dorman and around 50 to 60 bucks. Whats your opinion on this?
Dorman sells good stuff. They don’t manufacture joints of course. I’d go for it!
I fell asleep. When i woke up your hands were still clean and still disecting the parts. Ouch sandpaper! Chrome dont get ya home. How much to balance?
Very interesting and informative. SOme constructive vriticism though : Hammering a screwdriver @ 5:40 ?! You'll split the handle, use a small chisel! Also, @10:10 you are using the wrong type of snap-ring (I call it a circlip) pliers. Yours are for internal circlips; with external circlip pliers you could have done it one-handed easily. @19:00 the real problem with hose clamps is that they are seriously out of balance for a rotating task. @24:40, use a copper mallet and/or drift; a wood cushion will deliver dust splinters and crap into the joint - PS @25:30 that happened after I wrote that it would! No room for a socket @38:00 - you should use a ring spanner. @36:36 you refer to the kit bolts correctly as Allen head, but at 40:10 you are using a Torx on them! Way to chew them up! Should use an Allen drive bit. @44:35 no neutral on a Quadradive II ?! ... there is a button for neutral by the Lo ratio switch - as long as you have not had the cursed N23 recall which disables it.
good constructive criticism. I tried researching the pliers you mentioned on amazon but could not find the ones that reverse-open. About to tackle this , this morning. I didn't know about the neutral button. I just put the car in run, and shifted into neutral.
why in the world would they put a hole in the cap? that seems pretty dumb .your grease can get squeezed out during operation . does the original part have a weep hole?
The joint develops a lot of heat during operation and the hole prevents the boot from blowing up like a balloon as the hot air expands.
@@AaronCrabtree ah ok, that makes sense .but does the original part have a hole? i dont think i seen one on mine
I have this problem with my truck and can't seems to be able to find out whats wrong with it, whenever i am driving as long my feet is in the gas the whole front of the car start shaking but as soon i let go of the gas no-more shaking any idea of what it could be
Hello, did you fix the issue, I do have the same problem with my Jeep Commander.
My 2010 grand Cherokee only vibrates under acceleration. Could this be it?
Yes mine is doing it too
@@rcaddict3815 I figured mine it was the trans slipping and torque converter shutter under acceleration. I just got another trans
Take the pivot pin out of the pliers and put it in the other hole . The pliers will now work the opposite way .
I have a 05 and changed mine last year or so it was doing the same thing.
Mine vibration is at 55 in 2 wheel. Will it vibration be there in 2 wheel drive. Thanks
i pulled mine out without dropping the trans cross member
i have the same problem As soon as I get to 55 mph and idle the noise comes on, little viabration , if I let go of the accelerator its gone and it completely disappears at 70 mph, I think i can hear the noise coming from the right front tire, Its really hard to tell
Mine still has a vibration that comes from the front, but this CV joint replacement helped. At 48:52 you can see that the ball cage was broken.
Aaron Crabtree. yeah im thinking maybe replacing the whole front shaft will fix it.
i fixed it yesterday, the ruber on the cv joint was ripped amd all the grease had came out. Replaced it and no more noise👍
Im having the same issue in my 06 cherokee limited I can feel a vibration in my accelerator pedal its kinda annoying. It starts at like 15 mph and will go in and out till 55 mph and then stops above that
@@cesarsalas6630 my problem is the same as yours front right .you said it was a cvc joint in the front. Thanks
Slinging grease and not packing grease.
Zip tie
I am the only one that notice he put that in backwards
What did he put in backwards?
33:05 you just made yourself a mess
protect your hands!
Hola tengo un jeep grand cherokee del 2005 un 4.7 h.o y m rompe las transmisiones central k puedo Acer y como Acer lo me An dicho de poner una de cruceta se puede y como Acer lo gracian