Wow, that's a very impressive scientific explanation. The fact that the boot was flexible would also indicate that the grease would probably push out further to one side once it started spinning creating an even higher imbalance than what your calculations show.
Did this job and seems very valid as far as explanation. Replaced whole drive shaft and it still seems to have vibration on highway speeds. I've also replaced lower front ball joints and passenger side wheel bearing. I'm stumped. I'm hoping its a slightly bent rim... Otherwise, she's up for sale lol
Replace the whole frigging drive shaft because of some grease in the boot?! No way, unless the UJ's are shot. You say the issue with just cleaning out the boot is the replacing of the boot bands. You rule out hose clamps (Jubilee clips) because the screw is out of balance, but I would use two, shorten them and daisy-chain them so the are screws 180 degrees apart. Or use two clamps next to each other 180 degrees apart. There are also other types of boot band around, ones like steel cable ties that dont need special tools.
Found this video. I got a 06 commander and can’t find out why I have rear vibration under slight heavy acceleration. I even replaced the whole rear end. I never suspected the drive shaft because the u joints were still ok. The feeling it gives me is like an unbalanced DS. So this might be my problem
I need to know what was the sound and vibration like? My 2005 jeep grand cherokee 5.7 hemi vibration is like driving over rumble strips by the side of a highway, wondering if yours was the same?
Tell me u found the problem!! I just replaced my upper control arms & CV axles, now I'm havn that very issue!! That's the best way I can describe it!! Mine is doin it only on acceleration
@h22eh6 yessir!! It was the cv axles...when I 1st replaced them, I used O'Reillys...that's when my issue startd...talkd with a fellow Jeeper & he told me that I need'd OEM, so that's wat I did & problem solved
Thank you for the video. I too have this Jeep Model and vintage at 87,000 original miles and am getting the audible drone like sound without the vibration. The after market shaft you purchased is made of heavy steel versus the OEM which is made mostly of lighter aluminum. Did you experience any bad results from the heavier steel drive shaft?
I would like to know this too. I imagine once balanced that it would be better in every what except throttle response and fuel economy and vehicle weight.
I have a 2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee and on bumps I hear like a clicking noise like something loose and around 40-60 it vibrates. Do you have a clue on what it could be? Thank you
My 2005 Grand Cherokee sounds like a 1940s propeller plane very prominent at 60-70 MPH, heavy vibration through the steering wheel and pedal. Could this be the problem?
Check your front engine mount. But I think it might be a problem with your Harmonic Balancer. Maybe you could let me know what the actual problem was being it's been 8 months.
I have a 2006 grand cherokee 3.0 crd. It's got a violent noisy vibration when I turn, especially bad during full lock when maybe doing a 3 point turn. I thought it was a broken spring but sadly not. The mechanic is not entirely sure of the problem but is fitting a new drive shaft. If anyone's got any thoughts, I'd appreciate it. Could really do without a money pit at the moment. Thanks.
I have vibration while i drive my jeep gc 2006 year. But the vibration is not permanent, it could start in any moment , for example, i drive in 90km/h for a while, and then... it just starts a little vibration!
ok so you just wiped off the oil and put the boot back on? My jeep violently vibrates on the highway but only at random times, Sometimes it could be weeks apart. Other times its minutes apart. I have to stop my jeep and start it again or the vibration doesnt stop.
No, I replaced the entire driveshaft. I didn't have anything strong enough to crimp that clamp again. I think that you could do that if you want try. If you are having a violent vibration I'd look into death wobble. The driveshaft vibration is pretty consistent around 60 mph.
Aaron Crabtree I ruled out the death wobble. This is more of a gradual increase of vibration that gets worse and worse. I've had sensors replaced. just had the torque converter replaced and still the vibration. I've gone to 3 different mechanics and they can't replicate the vibration because it is completely random when it happens. so frustrating.
Gary Hawthorne didn't get one. he had my car for weeks and said he didn't hear it vibrate. I drove it home and that same dice it vibrated on me and again the next day. I've given up spending money on trying to find a diagnosis. the mechanic said I should change the oil in the transfer case... I have yet to do that
The rear is easy. There is nothing in the way. The only part that is tricky is jacking up a wheel to turn the drive shaft to get to all of the bolts. (Then put the wheel back on the ground to prevent it from turning.) The front requires loosening the cross member at the transfer case to gain extra clearance.
I have just done this job, and I put the old shaft back with plastic cable ties around the bellows. Did not need to turn the rear wheels as I could reach all the rear bolts anyway. Then I compressed the shaft a bit and lowered the rear end onto a foot stool. I could then turn the shaft to reach all the front bolts. Did not need to loosen any crossmember. The bolts were very tight (with Loctite or some-such) and I bent a big screwdriver which I had put through a UJ to prevent turning. I did not rely on the rear wheels to stop it turning - far too spongy. As for floor jacks, I only lifted up the left side up a few inches onto stands.
![เปิดบ้าน นาราเครปกระเทย 1 ไร่ ขายขาดทุนหลัก10ล้าน เอามาใช้หนี้!!! l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/0jz84VFWVP4/mqdefault.jpg)
Wow, that's a very impressive scientific explanation. The fact that the boot was flexible would also indicate that the grease would probably push out further to one side once it started spinning creating an even higher imbalance than what your calculations show.
Clamps are available at NAPA Auto Parts, They are just CV Boot Clamps. They also have the tool for them in the Service Tools line.
Did this job and seems very valid as far as explanation. Replaced whole drive shaft and it still seems to have vibration on highway speeds. I've also replaced lower front ball joints and passenger side wheel bearing. I'm stumped. I'm hoping its a slightly bent rim... Otherwise, she's up for sale lol
check your diff bushings
Thanks! My daughters Jeep shudders and is making me and my mechanic nuts. I sent your link to him and he is ordering a new drive shaft as well!
Replace the whole frigging drive shaft because of some grease in the boot?! No way, unless the UJ's are shot. You say the issue with just cleaning out the boot is the replacing of the boot bands. You rule out hose clamps (Jubilee clips) because the screw is out of balance, but I would use two, shorten them and daisy-chain them so the are screws 180 degrees apart. Or use two clamps next to each other 180 degrees apart. There are also other types of boot band around, ones like steel cable ties that dont need special tools.
Duke Nukem I agree with you. But my shaft was 12 years old and I replaced the driveshaft before I tore this one down.
Found this video. I got a 06 commander and can’t find out why I have rear vibration under slight heavy acceleration. I even replaced the whole rear end. I never suspected the drive shaft because the u joints were still ok. The feeling it gives me is like an unbalanced DS. So this might be my problem
I need to know what was the sound and vibration like? My 2005 jeep grand cherokee 5.7 hemi vibration is like driving over rumble strips by the side of a highway, wondering if yours was the same?
Tell me u found the problem!! I just replaced my upper control arms & CV axles, now I'm havn that very issue!! That's the best way I can describe it!! Mine is doin it only on acceleration
@Joe Fracassa
Did u fix it? Rumble strips is right I got that
@@mr.2k81did u fix it?
@h22eh6 yessir!! It was the cv axles...when I 1st replaced them, I used O'Reillys...that's when my issue startd...talkd with a fellow Jeeper & he told me that I need'd OEM, so that's wat I did & problem solved
Thank you for the video. I too have this Jeep Model and vintage at 87,000 original miles and am getting the audible drone like sound without the vibration. The after market shaft you purchased is made of heavy steel versus the OEM which is made mostly of lighter aluminum. Did you experience any bad results from the heavier steel drive shaft?
I would like to know this too. I imagine once balanced that it would be better in every what except throttle response and fuel economy and vehicle weight.
I have a 2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee and on bumps I hear like a clicking noise like something loose and around 40-60 it vibrates. Do you have a clue on what it could be? Thank you
thank you for the help brother
Very informative, thank you for your time and knowledge!!!
Thank you
I’m working on one that having a vibration at 45 and above.
Yep me to 45-65 under acceleration not coasting
OK I found it you went with steel is there any difference in the way the car drives performance I mean going from aluminum to steel
There was no difference at all.
Is there a video showing the removal of this???
Sounds like my problem down to the T. I just hit 120,000 miles and the noise is unbearable.
My 2005 Grand Cherokee sounds like a 1940s propeller plane very prominent at 60-70 MPH, heavy vibration through the steering wheel and pedal. Could this be the problem?
Thank you for the information 👍
Can I get the website where you ordered this driveline and a part number I called the dealer they want $1500 for it
I have 2006 grand Cherokee and it vibrates as soon as I turn the engine on, in park what do you think
James Somerville same
Engine mounts
Or trans mount
Check your front engine mount. But I think it might be a problem with your Harmonic Balancer. Maybe you could let me know what the actual problem was being it's been 8 months.
You can use thick tie strap
I have a 2006 grand cherokee 3.0 crd. It's got a violent noisy vibration when I turn, especially bad during full lock when maybe doing a 3 point turn. I thought it was a broken spring but sadly not. The mechanic is not entirely sure of the problem but is fitting a new drive shaft. If anyone's got any thoughts, I'd appreciate it. Could really do without a money pit at the moment. Thanks.
Front drive shaft CV?? check if there is grease everywhere common problem.
and not the front axle cv either they seem pretty reliable.
I have vibration while i drive my jeep gc 2006 year. But the vibration is not permanent, it could start in any moment , for example, i drive in 90km/h for a while, and then... it just starts a little vibration!
what else can it be?
ok so you just wiped off the oil and put the boot back on? My jeep violently vibrates on the highway but only at random times, Sometimes it could be weeks apart. Other times its minutes apart. I have to stop my jeep and start it again or the vibration doesnt stop.
No, I replaced the entire driveshaft. I didn't have anything strong enough to crimp that clamp again. I think that you could do that if you want try. If you are having a violent vibration I'd look into death wobble. The driveshaft vibration is pretty consistent around 60 mph.
Aaron Crabtree I ruled out the death wobble. This is more of a gradual increase of vibration that gets worse and worse. I've had sensors replaced. just had the torque converter replaced and still the vibration. I've gone to 3 different mechanics and they can't replicate the vibration because it is completely random when it happens. so frustrating.
So we ruled out the oil too. Mechanic took off the boot and there was no grease buildup...
Notmyreal Name what was your diagnosis??
Gary Hawthorne didn't get one. he had my car for weeks and said he didn't hear it vibrate. I drove it home and that same dice it vibrated on me and again the next day. I've given up spending money on trying to find a diagnosis. the mechanic said I should change the oil in the transfer case... I have yet to do that
WOULD BE NICE TO ACTUALLY SEE ONE BEING INSTALLED. i MEAN THE EQUIPMENT LIKE FLOOR JACKS AND ALL
The rear is easy. There is nothing in the way. The only part that is tricky is jacking up a wheel to turn the drive shaft to get to all of the bolts. (Then put the wheel back on the ground to prevent it from turning.) The front requires loosening the cross member at the transfer case to gain extra clearance.
I have just done this job, and I put the old shaft back with plastic cable ties around the bellows. Did not need to turn the rear wheels as I could reach all the rear bolts anyway. Then I compressed the shaft a bit and lowered the rear end onto a foot stool. I could then turn the shaft to reach all the front bolts. Did not need to loosen any crossmember. The bolts were very tight (with Loctite or some-such) and I bent a big screwdriver which I had put through a UJ to prevent turning. I did not rely on the rear wheels to stop it turning - far too spongy. As for floor jacks, I only lifted up the left side up a few inches onto stands.
@@AaronCrabtree IF you had the car on jack stands a park brake would stop the wheels rotating.