Awesome, always love your instructional videos. I just used this video to help me install the V2 sensor to my Railcore that I just updated with Klipper. Adding this sensor with your video has been the easiest thing yet with regards to this project!
I bought one of these after watching your video. It's a lot less 'draggy' than the original version which is great news. The older one just gripped the filament way too hard. And the much reduced weight will hopefully mean that it won't cause the tool head to judder/vibrate around so much on direction changes. Great video as always Chris.
Hopefully the mechanics are a bit better internally. That was my biggest issue with V1 is that the wheel worked for a week maybe, after that the encoder got really hard to turn and would constantly trigger. I pulled it apart to check and it was hard to spin even with my finger, no chance for filament to move it. I went through 2 of them and both suffered the same fate.
Thanks for the video and detailed installation guide. I had the version one of this and like a lot of other people found that it created more problems than it solved. I settled on a simple micro switch sensor, works well when the filament runs out and no false readings.
Current Marlin bugfix-2.1.x has more config options to support this style of sensor with "classic" runout & encoder features. Also, you can always repurpose unused pins for the second runout sensor (like PS-ON on the SKR Mini E3 V2/V3).
Thanks for the video! Just curious what the logic is for setting up both the switch and the encoder in klipper? I understand the purpose of both but if the encoder can detect a runout from lack of movement setting up the switch as well seems redundant unless its just so that different gcode actions occur.
Hi, thanks for the video. Is it possible to use 5 of those BTT SFS's with BTT Octopus PRO. I'm designing now filament holder for 5 spools of filament (it supposed to work with my Voron 2.4 steathchanger) It would be great to use it smart features. But I don't think I have enough endstop pins for wiring as it stands in the manual. Can you think about other options? Connecting it in series I guess would not really work. Is it possible to wire it to RPi instead the Octopus. It has a lot o GPIO pins to use. But I suck in setting those thinks in RPi. Any advice would be really welcom.
With Klipper it should actually be pretty easy as you can configure as many boards as you want for one printer. You just call it by MCU. I don't have a video on it right now, but I will make one in the future.
Chris, thank you for this video as well as all you upload! As usual you offer great insight as to how to use this device. In my case, I am using it on a direct drive system where I can't mount it close to the extruder as you have suggested. Mounting it as I need to, it causes a lot of "false triggering," unless I significantly increase the detection length. I have done this and turned off its ability to pause the print. It now works well as a warning device as it shows in klipper when I have a trigger. The larger problem for me is that I can't always keep my eyes glued on the klipper interface. All this brings up my question for you, and it may lead to a larger discussion. . .Is there a way to have klipper audabally warn a user when an event has happened? I figure if anyone would know it would be you. Thanks for any insight that you might be able to offer!
Thanks for the kind words. I think we have a lot of options, the question is what is the best one. If you had an LCD screen I think we could play sounds on it. There are a lot of option on sending notifications to your cell phone, but I will have to look into those further.
@@ChrisRiley Thanks for getting back to me! Yeah, I've seen the options for an SMS notification, but that doesn't seem as it it would be all that helpful. I do have an LCD, but I don't believe that it has a speaker. Will probably need to find a way to use the sound abilities of the PI to drive an external speaker. I'm not sure what that looks like at this point. Thanks again and in advance for any thoughts!
@@ChrisRiley I ordered the BTT SFS 2.0 for my Trident 300 build. as with Ender 3 S1 Pro when everything using to run perfect the worst nightmare I used to have if the filament should tangle and this SFS 2.0 handles that scenario pretty well so I can now rest easy. Will test this feature extensively as I put it in practice on my Trident.
I get lots of falses on the filament sensor switch, but the filament motion seems to be reliable. I used a macro to look at the filament sensor switch reading 1/2 second later, if it is still triggered then I activate the PAUSE. Gotta love Klipper
Hi Chris, I have a SFS V1 on a BTT SKR2 with TFT35-E3, running latest version of Marlin. I have had all sorts of false triggers with the SFS V1, to the point of removing it from the loop. In older videos it was recommended to connect the filament sensor to the TFT and not the main board. Here it seems you are saying to run the filament sensor to the main board. I print from the SD card slot on the TFT, so I'm thinking there will be problems. Any tips/insight? Thanks! Dave
I prefer the board because you don't rely on the screen code pausing the print. It would work either way, but as you said you would only be able to print from the TFT.
Hi Chris i have a request the btt tft v3 e3 I'd be glad have you updated it and Is there a video on installing the creality bl touch on the btt tft e3 v3 thanks! 😁
Hello, interesting video. But I have a problem, one cable is connected to E0-Stop, that's OK, but the other is to PWR-DET, where I have a BTT BigTreeTech UPS module 24V V1.0 connected, so the connectors are occupied. We have a BigTreeTech SKR Mini E3 V3 board. Thank you👍👍👍
Yes, are you running klipper? That would be the only time you need to separate them. If you want to do this, you just need to find a set of unused pins and configure them how I show here. It doesn't matter much which ones you use as long as you update the config file.
Hi Chris, again thank you for your tutorial for the BTT SFS V2. As you mention this unit works perfectly when positioned directly over the extruder which it is my setup. The only issue is that I have a QIDI X PLUS X and when I start printing a new job, the XY axis are going to 0,0 and the sensor crashes on the upper body of the machine enclosure. This a pain because it throws all the settings off. I am new to the G-CODE world, and I wonder if there a way for me to tell the axis to stop like at 20-30mm away from the 0,0. I looked at the qidi slicer and Fluidd UI but can't see what I would need to change. Maybe this is a discussion for another video topic, but any help would be appreciated. Regards.
You can put safe guards in where the printer can't go, but if you home at 0,0 then you're out of luck. We would have to figure out another way to install the sensor.
@@ChrisRiley Hi Chris, thank you for your feedback. Unfortunately, for the sensor to work flawlessly it has to be installed on top the the extruder. My QIDI X PLUS 3 is homing at 0,0 and it hits all over the machine framing. My solution was to cut about one inch of the frame plastic frame and the problem is solved. I still would love for educational purposes to know if one can change the homing position. Thank s again.
Mine worked for quite a while, but now I'm trying to print TPU and this seems to add a lot of drag to the filament path, then the filament stretches before the sensor, and the sensor trips out.
I set mine up on the Voron 2.4 and used the BIQU recommended klipper configuration. But it triggers just before printing commences and then goes to park and pause. If then press resume, printing starts but then for no reason it pauses parks some time into the print. If I disable the sensor printing is fine - so it is a false reading. Do I need to increase the 2.88mm to a higher value?
@@ChrisRiley I know Thomas made one that does, an issue as you said was that marlin / riprap can only do one as the klipper can do both. I think the original bbt sfs could do one or the other but not both either so humm
Another excellent step-by-step video. Really like your channel. I recently installed one of these BTT SFS V2.0 sensors on my RatRig Vcore 3.1 (RatOS/Klipper/Mainsail), but keep getting an error just before the print begins. I followed the instructions directly from the BTT PDF file for the SFS V2.0, and the query commands return exactly what you would expect, but I have not been able to solve the error (the value 'my_sensor' is not valid for SENSOR). I have searched through every file in the mainsail directory and cannot find 'my_sensor' in any of the config files. any help you could provide would be greatly appreciated.
@@ChrisRiley I searched through the Klippy log, but could not find any reference to "my_sensor" I did solve the problem however.. Perhaps others may not have run into the same issue, by reassigning the variables in Klipper. I discovered the following line in the Klipper documentation "[filament_switch_sensor my_sensor]". So I renamed the sensor in my printer.cfg file to match this ("my_sensor") and it now works without issue. I know you can easily reassign variables in Marlin, but I don't know how to do that in Klipper..
You don’t need to have it right at the tool head as long as you have a Bowden tube between it and your tool head. The Bowden tube keeps the length of filament between the two constant between the two. I learned this the hard way with version 1 of the sensor. Once I put a Bowden between the two, it worked flawlessly.
Hi Chris, Thank you very much for your tutorials. I am trying to install the BTT SFS V2 in my QIDI X PLUS 3 and did follow your instructions which did work very well. Did the queries and got the same answers just like yours. I am trying to start printing a test run but it keeps giving me "Filament ran-out, please re-load filament". Can you help with this issue if I am not asking much? Regards
I'm missing an important information, at least for me: After a runout, can the filament pass through the sensor during unloading procedure without problem? I see on your titan extruder the whole sensor is pushed out upon unloading but how about on a bmg extruder where the ptfe tube is fixed in place in a collet?
I have a diff filament runout, but I placed mine in a hinge. When the filament was backed out by the extruder, the filament would simply push/swing the sensor and hinge out of the way.
Yeah it can without issue. It applies a little pressure to the filament so when you reverse it essentially pushes all the slack out of the fittings. It does the same when printing just in the other direction.
I'm having a problem with mine where it's triggering the motion sensor, pausing the print and nothing appears to be wrong as far as a jam, clog etc. I've noticed the light goes out on the sensor when it does this but it's not turning the light back on when it restarts and have already had one print I was 13 hours into and the printer refused to resume. I'm using this on an Elegoo Neptune 4 max because all I do is big prints on it and was having issues with jam's and then air printing or having a line or two under extrude and ruining the print. Any idea why this sensor just randomly triggers and pauses prints then won't resume? Faulty sensor maybe?
Hey Chris, I love your video's, its help me a lot Just one question I got problem whit my Smart filament sensor. It disable my stepper motor when I'm not around my printer, and it should home before resume printing. How can I fix it? Please help me Thank you so much
the code for klipper is not good at all for me... at 17:18 I have line 127 "dectection_length" is not good, shouldn't I put detection_length instead? how do you not have an error even though it is poorly written... Then line 129 "pause_on_runtout" is not good
The problem with SFS2.0 is that inserting filament is still not smooth. Filament can even go sideway into left (to that bearing part) inside SFS case, instead of hole on wall across. I sat for a while with piece of filament and just testing inserting/pulling out several times etc. Releasing tension (using that "button") can cause even bigger problems with filament going wrong way inside SFS2.0. Also release tension "button" unscrews easily. Solution - adding a bit of thread glue to it.
Hello I think I found a Bug in klipper and I need help verifying it as a bug in the filament motion switch (btt smart runout) . If you have a 3 in one out non mixing extruder and you set it up with the new "stepper_extrder" config. it all works great, Then you add the three separate BTT smart runout (V1) to each of the extruders. Klipper will only "poll" the one you have as T0 it will see the other two runout but it will not trigger it at all. you can see on the web interface it is triggered but no reaction. .... NOW if I set it up as a standard duel extruder with two separate hotends then I can get two of them working..( on the bench ) . it is in the setup somewhere on how to sync up the motion sensor with the "extruder"
I am open to any sound advice. I have my configs on the discord support page also hoping for help or at least validation that I am not crazy (more then normal).
thank you very much I'm trying to install it on my klipper with SKR1.4 turbo, on the E0DET(P1.26) for the runout and E1DET(P1.25) for the encoder, but the LED is red when the filament is installed. Can you check it out please? thanks, Chris [filament_switch_sensor RUNOUT] pause_on_runout: True runout_gcode: #PAUSE # [pause_resume] is required in printer.cfg G1 E10 F2000 G1 E-100 F2000 M117 Filament switch runout insert_gcode: M117 Filament switch inserted event_delay: 3.0 pause_delay: 0.5 switch_pin: P1.26 [filament_motion_sensor encoder_sensor] switch_pin: P1.25 detection_length: 2.88 extruder: extruder pause_on_runout: True runout_gcode: #PAUSE # [pause_resume] is required in printer.cfg M117 Filament encoder runout insert_gcode: M117 Filament encoder inserted
Not that it's even remotely needed, I was able to get both the encoder and the switch working at the same time on Reprap, mainly just to see if I could. I connected one to E0, and the other to E1, and I have mixing enabled (M567 plus some other changes that are needed for mixing to work). I'm not 100% sure if mixing is needed, I didn't bother testing anything else, I just had the idea, it immediately worked and I moved on with my life. It looks like Marlin has a similar tool mixing feature, so it might work on Marlin too. Also it doesn't need to be anywhere near your extruder to work, you just need the filament to be constrained in a bowden tube between the sensor and the extruder. In my case I have it outside of my enclosure so I can swap filament without opening the door and potentially ruin a print.
Klipper does not have a reliable detection routine. It is pretty dump. There is also a flaw with the switch sensor detection too not just the motion sensor. The switch detection sensor code is over detection. Even a pulse of 1uS can trigger a run out. This is a problem. They should have a long pulse detection up to 1second and that eliminate all the false defection. I fix the unreliable switch by simply flip the switch to Normally Open == Filament in and Closed position = filament out. That eliminate all the problem when the vibration of the printer randomly put the switch in open position mechanically. I can't do anything with the motion sensor since Klipper code is pretty much does not have parameters that can adjust the detection intelligently. You can increase the length but that will make the printer detection too late which render the purposed of motion sensor is to make sure that filament is alway flowing
I ran V1 for years and I’ve never had an issue with function unless the encoder got dirty. I had it set at the recommended 7mm settings running marlin 2.x
Did you have a Bowden tube between it and your tool head? I had trouble with mine until I did that. Bowden keeps the filament length between the two constant. Otherwise mine would trigger if the head moved far and pulled a bunch of slack. After putting in a Bowden between them, it worked perfectly. Only problem I have with it is that it can be a pain to load filament through.
Cheers Chris!! A great explanation and guide for an aged newbie. Your teaching an old dog new tricks, keep it up!!!
Glad you enjoyed it, thank you!
Awesome, always love your instructional videos. I just used this video to help me install the V2 sensor to my Railcore that I just updated with Klipper. Adding this sensor with your video has been the easiest thing yet with regards to this project!
I'm glad I could help!
I bought one of these after watching your video. It's a lot less 'draggy' than the original version which is great news. The older one just gripped the filament way too hard. And the much reduced weight will hopefully mean that it won't cause the tool head to judder/vibrate around so much on direction changes. Great video as always Chris.
Awesome, glad it's working out for you.
Very nice video Chris. I bought BTT SFS V2.0 and was thinking how to do it. Your video rescue me. Thanks a lot.
Glad I could help!
Hopefully the mechanics are a bit better internally. That was my biggest issue with V1 is that the wheel worked for a week maybe, after that the encoder got really hard to turn and would constantly trigger. I pulled it apart to check and it was hard to spin even with my finger, no chance for filament to move it. I went through 2 of them and both suffered the same fate.
I think this one works better.
Thanks, Chris. I placed an order for the sensor, but I'll be using it on the K1C. We'll need a second video to go over the steps. 🙏
Thanks for watching, I don't own a K1C, but hopefully it is straight forward or someone else has done a video already.
Great video Chris. Tanks for teaching this old dog some new tricks lol :)
Happy to help! Thanks for watching
Thanks for the video and detailed installation guide. I had the version one of this and like a lot of other people found that it created more problems than it solved. I settled on a simple micro switch sensor, works well when the filament runs out and no false readings.
Thanks Dave. Sometimes simple is better
Current Marlin bugfix-2.1.x has more config options to support this style of sensor with "classic" runout & encoder features. Also, you can always repurpose unused pins for the second runout sensor (like PS-ON on the SKR Mini E3 V2/V3).
Thanks Keith I will be on the look out for added options.
Thanks for the video! Just curious what the logic is for setting up both the switch and the encoder in klipper? I understand the purpose of both but if the encoder can detect a runout from lack of movement setting up the switch as well seems redundant unless its just so that different gcode actions occur.
It's more of redundancy, but you are right, you can take different actions based on what triggers.
I was waiting for a video like this, tks!!!
Hope you enjoyed it!
Thanks! exactly what i needed right now! :D
Glad I could help! Thanks for watching
Hi, thanks for the video. Is it possible to use 5 of those BTT SFS's with BTT Octopus PRO. I'm designing now filament holder for 5 spools of filament (it supposed to work with my Voron 2.4 steathchanger) It would be great to use it smart features. But I don't think I have enough endstop pins for wiring as it stands in the manual. Can you think about other options? Connecting it in series I guess would not really work. Is it possible to wire it to RPi instead the Octopus. It has a lot o GPIO pins to use. But I suck in setting those thinks in RPi. Any advice would be really welcom.
With Klipper it should actually be pretty easy as you can configure as many boards as you want for one printer. You just call it by MCU. I don't have a video on it right now, but I will make one in the future.
Chris, thank you for this video as well as all you upload! As usual you offer great insight as to how to use this device. In my case, I am using it on a direct drive system where I can't mount it close to the extruder as you have suggested. Mounting it as I need to, it causes a lot of "false triggering," unless I significantly increase the detection length. I have done this and turned off its ability to pause the print. It now works well as a warning device as it shows in klipper when I have a trigger. The larger problem for me is that I can't always keep my eyes glued on the klipper interface. All this brings up my question for you, and it may lead to a larger discussion. . .Is there a way to have klipper audabally warn a user when an event has happened? I figure if anyone would know it would be you. Thanks for any insight that you might be able to offer!
Thanks for the kind words. I think we have a lot of options, the question is what is the best one. If you had an LCD screen I think we could play sounds on it. There are a lot of option on sending notifications to your cell phone, but I will have to look into those further.
@@ChrisRiley Thanks for getting back to me! Yeah, I've seen the options for an SMS notification, but that doesn't seem as it it would be all that helpful. I do have an LCD, but I don't believe that it has a speaker. Will probably need to find a way to use the sound abilities of the PI to drive an external speaker. I'm not sure what that looks like at this point. Thanks again and in advance for any thoughts!
super helpful.
Glad it was helpful!
@@ChrisRiley I ordered the BTT SFS 2.0 for my Trident 300 build. as with Ender 3 S1 Pro when everything using to run perfect the worst nightmare I used to have if the filament should tangle and this SFS 2.0 handles that scenario pretty well so I can now rest easy. Will test this feature extensively as I put it in practice on my Trident.
I get lots of falses on the filament sensor switch, but the filament motion seems to be reliable. I used a macro to look at the filament sensor switch reading 1/2 second later, if it is still triggered then I activate the PAUSE. Gotta love Klipper
👍🙂
Could you please share this macro?
@@AlexSAndroidRadio I gave up on this sensor when I switched to the sensor with the Orbiter V2. Looks like I didn't save the macro anywhere
Hi Chris,
I have a SFS V1 on a BTT SKR2 with TFT35-E3, running latest version of Marlin.
I have had all sorts of false triggers with the SFS V1, to the point of removing it from the loop.
In older videos it was recommended to connect the filament sensor to the TFT and not the main board. Here it seems you are saying to run the filament sensor to the main board.
I print from the SD card slot on the TFT, so I'm thinking there will be problems.
Any tips/insight?
Thanks!
Dave
I prefer the board because you don't rely on the screen code pausing the print. It would work either way, but as you said you would only be able to print from the TFT.
Hi Chris i have a request the btt tft v3 e3 I'd be glad have you updated it and Is there a video on installing the creality bl touch on the btt tft e3 v3 thanks! 😁
I will take a look at that, it's been a while since I have done any touch screen stuff.
Hello, interesting video. But I have a problem, one cable is connected to E0-Stop, that's OK, but the other is to PWR-DET, where I have a BTT BigTreeTech UPS module 24V V1.0 connected, so the connectors are occupied. We have a BigTreeTech SKR Mini E3 V3 board. Thank you👍👍👍
Yes, are you running klipper? That would be the only time you need to separate them. If you want to do this, you just need to find a set of unused pins and configure them how I show here. It doesn't matter much which ones you use as long as you update the config file.
Hello, I'm using Marlin, but somehow I can't find a free pin to write it on.
Hi Chris, again thank you for your tutorial for the BTT SFS V2. As you mention this unit works perfectly when positioned directly over the extruder which it is my setup. The only issue is that I have a QIDI X PLUS X and when I start printing a new job, the XY axis are going to 0,0 and the sensor crashes on the upper body of the machine enclosure. This a pain because it throws all the settings off. I am new to the G-CODE world, and I wonder if there a way for me to tell the axis to stop like at 20-30mm away from the 0,0. I looked at the qidi slicer and Fluidd UI but can't see what I would need to change. Maybe this is a discussion for another video topic, but any help would be appreciated. Regards.
You can put safe guards in where the printer can't go, but if you home at 0,0 then you're out of luck. We would have to figure out another way to install the sensor.
@@ChrisRiley Hi Chris, thank you for your feedback. Unfortunately, for the sensor to work flawlessly it has to be installed on top the the extruder. My QIDI X PLUS 3 is homing at 0,0 and it hits all over the machine framing. My solution was to cut about one inch of the frame plastic frame and the problem is solved. I still would love for educational purposes to know if one can change the homing position. Thank s again.
Mine worked for quite a while, but now I'm trying to print TPU and this seems to add a lot of drag to the filament path, then the filament stretches before the sensor, and the sensor trips out.
I only print TPU once in a while and I could see how these sensor would be hard to use with it.
I'm not sure if this has been asked, but what happens if the encoder reports "movement" and the switch reports "no filament"? 🤔
That probably means the switch needs to be flip flopped in the first where. True/false.
Heads up! Some boards have drivers or buffers on the Neopixel pins. If so, they cannot be used as inputs.
Good info, thank you!
I set mine up on the Voron 2.4 and used the BIQU recommended klipper configuration. But it triggers just before printing commences and then goes to park and pause. If then press resume, printing starts but then for no reason it pauses parks some time into the print. If I disable the sensor printing is fine - so it is a false reading. Do I need to increase the 2.88mm to a higher value?
That's the first thing I would try. Dump it up 1mm at a time and see if you can get it more consistent.
Chris. Does one of these be used to measure filament with to adjust the extrusion multiplier, or just jams and run outs?
That is a great idea, but I'm not sure how you would set it up. It would be cool.
@@ChrisRiley I know Thomas made one that does, an issue as you said was that marlin / riprap can only do one as the klipper can do both. I think the original bbt sfs could do one or the other but not both either so humm
Another excellent step-by-step video. Really like your channel. I recently installed one of these BTT SFS V2.0 sensors on my RatRig Vcore 3.1 (RatOS/Klipper/Mainsail), but keep getting an error just before the print begins. I followed the instructions directly from the BTT PDF file for the SFS V2.0, and the query commands return exactly what you would expect, but I have not been able to solve the error (the value 'my_sensor' is not valid for SENSOR). I have searched through every file in the mainsail directory and cannot find 'my_sensor' in any of the config files. any help you could provide would be greatly appreciated.
7:58 PM
The value 'my_sensor' is not valid for SENSOR
7:58 PM
Printing...
7:58 PM
Priming nozzle with prime line..
7:56 PM
Heating Extruder...
Thanks you! Huh, odd, I wonder where it's call that from? Does it have anything interesting in the klippy log about it?
@@ChrisRiley I searched through the Klippy log, but could not find any reference to "my_sensor"
I did solve the problem however.. Perhaps others may not have run into the same issue, by reassigning the variables in Klipper. I discovered the following line in the Klipper documentation "[filament_switch_sensor my_sensor]". So I renamed the sensor in my printer.cfg file to match this ("my_sensor") and it now works without issue. I know you can easily reassign variables in Marlin, but I don't know how to do that in Klipper..
@@johngorman8421 Thanks for posting the fix!
You don’t need to have it right at the tool head as long as you have a Bowden tube between it and your tool head. The Bowden tube keeps the length of filament between the two constant between the two. I learned this the hard way with version 1 of the sensor. Once I put a Bowden between the two, it worked flawlessly.
Thanks for the tip!
how do i get the 2 sensors visible on the dashboard?
ha found it
Glad you found it.
Hi Chris, Thank you very much for your tutorials.
I am trying to install the BTT SFS V2 in my QIDI X PLUS 3 and did follow your instructions which did work very well. Did the queries and got the same answers just like yours. I am trying to start printing a test run but it keeps giving me "Filament ran-out, please re-load filament". Can you help with this issue if I am not asking much? Regards
You're welcome! You will probably just need to adjust the runout length until you find a setting that will be a happy medium.
Thank you very much for your reply.
I'm missing an important information, at least for me: After a runout, can the filament pass through the sensor during unloading procedure without problem? I see on your titan extruder the whole sensor is pushed out upon unloading but how about on a bmg extruder where the ptfe tube is fixed in place in a collet?
I have a diff filament runout, but I placed mine in a hinge. When the filament was backed out by the extruder, the filament would simply push/swing the sensor and hinge out of the way.
Yeah it can without issue. It applies a little pressure to the filament so when you reverse it essentially pushes all the slack out of the fittings. It does the same when printing just in the other direction.
@@girrrrrrr2 Thx for the feedback, I'm buying these! Time for an update of my trianglelabs runout sensors.
No rubber duck!
Its basically useless at that point!
🙂👍
I'm having a problem with mine where it's triggering the motion sensor, pausing the print and nothing appears to be wrong as far as a jam, clog etc. I've noticed the light goes out on the sensor when it does this but it's not turning the light back on when it restarts and have already had one print I was 13 hours into and the printer refused to resume. I'm using this on an Elegoo Neptune 4 max because all I do is big prints on it and was having issues with jam's and then air printing or having a line or two under extrude and ruining the print. Any idea why this sensor just randomly triggers and pauses prints then won't resume? Faulty sensor maybe?
Faulty sensor is all I can think of. If the light stays out maybe it's a bad connection that triggers the runout and the sensor never comes back on.
No rubber ducky? That's disappointing.
Definitely adding one of these to my next build.
I know, my collection can't grow if this keeps up! :)
Hey Chris, I love your video's, its help me a lot
Just one question
I got problem whit my Smart filament sensor.
It disable my stepper motor when I'm not around my printer, and it should home before resume printing. How can I fix it?
Please help me
Thank you so much
Thanks! It's different on different firmware, what do you run?
Nice looks good
Thank you 😋
the code for klipper is not good at all for me...
at 17:18 I have line 127 "dectection_length" is not good, shouldn't I put detection_length instead? how do you not have an error even though it is poorly written...
Then line 129 "pause_on_runtout" is not good
I make these errors all the time, Klipper is great at telling you when you've made a typo. If there are spelling errors, please correct them.
Wonder if it works on a Neptune 3 max as the one installed isnt smart and dont work with Octoprint.
Not sure if it would be plug and play or not.
I just had to clean mine out. I didn't realize the sensor was optical and it had dust on it.
I'm glad you got it working!
The problem with SFS2.0 is that inserting filament is still not smooth. Filament can even go sideway into left (to that bearing part) inside SFS case, instead of hole on wall across. I sat for a while with piece of filament and just testing inserting/pulling out several times etc. Releasing tension (using that "button") can cause even bigger problems with filament going wrong way inside SFS2.0.
Also release tension "button" unscrews easily. Solution - adding a bit of thread glue to it.
Thank you for your input and for the tips!
Hello I think I found a Bug in klipper and I need help verifying it as a bug in the filament motion switch (btt smart runout) . If you have a 3 in one out non mixing extruder and you set it up with the new "stepper_extrder" config. it all works great, Then you add the three separate BTT smart runout (V1) to each of the extruders. Klipper will only "poll" the one you have as T0 it will see the other two runout but it will not trigger it at all. you can see on the web interface it is triggered but no reaction. .... NOW if I set it up as a standard duel extruder with two separate hotends then I can get two of them working..( on the bench ) . it is in the setup somewhere on how to sync up the motion sensor with the "extruder"
Wow, good find. I wish I had a 3-in-1 to help test. Maybe someone here in the comments can help verify this.
I am open to any sound advice. I have my configs on the discord support page also hoping for help or at least validation that I am not crazy (more then normal).
Nice! I have 1.0
Great, thanks for watching!
Klipper gets "complicated" when trying to setup two of such sensors.. I wish I had a guide for that.
Interesting, maybe we will look at that in the future.
thank you very much
I'm trying to install it on my klipper with SKR1.4 turbo, on the E0DET(P1.26) for the runout and E1DET(P1.25) for the encoder, but the LED is red when the filament is installed. Can you check it out please?
thanks, Chris
[filament_switch_sensor RUNOUT]
pause_on_runout: True
runout_gcode:
#PAUSE # [pause_resume] is required in printer.cfg
G1 E10 F2000
G1 E-100 F2000
M117 Filament switch runout
insert_gcode:
M117 Filament switch inserted
event_delay: 3.0
pause_delay: 0.5
switch_pin: P1.26
[filament_motion_sensor encoder_sensor]
switch_pin: P1.25
detection_length: 2.88
extruder: extruder
pause_on_runout: True
runout_gcode:
#PAUSE # [pause_resume] is required in printer.cfg
M117 Filament encoder runout
insert_gcode:
M117 Filament encoder inserted
You might just need to flip flop the switch pin, just put a ! in front of the number.
Not that it's even remotely needed, I was able to get both the encoder and the switch working at the same time on Reprap, mainly just to see if I could. I connected one to E0, and the other to E1, and I have mixing enabled (M567 plus some other changes that are needed for mixing to work). I'm not 100% sure if mixing is needed, I didn't bother testing anything else, I just had the idea, it immediately worked and I moved on with my life. It looks like Marlin has a similar tool mixing feature, so it might work on Marlin too.
Also it doesn't need to be anywhere near your extruder to work, you just need the filament to be constrained in a bowden tube between the sensor and the extruder. In my case I have it outside of my enclosure so I can swap filament without opening the door and potentially ruin a print.
Nice work, it's nice to know you can use both in RRF.
Is the cable long enough on Ender 5 Plus?
I'm not sure. The cable is about a meter long
Just barely, but yes. Just installed it on mine
Anybody else think of Halo every time he said M117? lol
HA!
use the z+ plug
Yes! A lot of these boards that's a good option. Be cafeful on some boards the endstops are set to input voltage to support other types of sensors.
Ha ha 😂runtout 15:49
I don't know why I kept throwing a T in there, I did it like 3 times. 😀
Klipper does not have a reliable detection routine. It is pretty dump. There is also a flaw with the switch sensor detection too not just the motion sensor. The switch detection sensor code is over detection. Even a pulse of 1uS can trigger a run out. This is a problem. They should have a long pulse detection up to 1second and that eliminate all the false defection. I fix the unreliable switch by simply flip the switch to Normally Open == Filament in and Closed position = filament out. That eliminate all the problem when the vibration of the printer randomly put the switch in open position mechanically. I can't do anything with the motion sensor since Klipper code is pretty much does not have parameters that can adjust the detection intelligently. You can increase the length but that will make the printer detection too late which render the purposed of motion sensor is to make sure that filament is alway flowing
Interesting fix for the switch, maybe there is something the Klipper folks can update to help out. Hopefully someone added this over on the github.
👍
🙂👍
Hello
Hello
V1 was absolutely trash. Even set to 70mm
I think the V2 works better
I ran V1 for years and I’ve never had an issue with function unless the encoder got dirty. I had it set at the recommended 7mm settings running marlin 2.x
Did you have a Bowden tube between it and your tool head? I had trouble with mine until I did that. Bowden keeps the filament length between the two constant. Otherwise mine would trigger if the head moved far and pulled a bunch of slack. After putting in a Bowden between them, it worked perfectly. Only problem I have with it is that it can be a pain to load filament through.